It's easy to make a shower in the country. DIY country shower

Fast rhythm modern life often pushes us towards fairly quick hygiene procedures rather than relaxing in a bubble bath. Ideal option there will be a shower room that easily accommodates the entire set of important segments for sanitary and hygienic activities and water procedures.

When planning a shower wall renovation, it is important to understand that the space around the shower requires special finishing. This place is exposed to high temperature changes and moisture, so the surfaces of the shower compartment or shower stall have to be washed much more often than others. Based on this information and guided by preferences, the size of the bathroom and financial capabilities, you can choose a high-quality finishing material for renovation.

It makes no sense to talk about the variety of finishing materials that hardware and construction stores are filled with. Their range will satisfy shower room owners with any taste preferences and wallet size. Let's look at the methods of finishing the surfaces of shower rooms in more detail.

Do-it-yourself shower wall repair: finishing methods, photos, videos

1. Ceramic tile.

One of the most rational, practical and popular ways to decorate bathroom walls and especially shower surfaces is to decorate with ceramic tiles.

Among all the advantages of this type of finishing, it is worth highlighting:

• high temperature resistance;
• relative durability;
• strength;
• ease of care;
• moisture resistance;
• rich range of color palette;
• inexpensive cost;
• not prone to burnout;
• safety for the environment and humans;
• calmly reacts to chemical influences. substances with a small content of alkalis or acids.

The following criteria should be added to the disadvantages:

• complexity of installation (for effective cladding, we recommend contacting specialists);
• the impossibility of quickly replacing bathroom furnishings;
• not suitable for finishing all surfaces;
• the relative high cost of both material and installation services;
• the seams between the tiles require special care for long-term use without losing their original appearance;
• The interior of the shower room may look cold if all surfaces are finished with tiles.

One of the most popular and traditional types ceramic tiles is the "Metro" tile. Initially, such rectangular dies were used to decorate the walls of the subway and were laid out as brickwork.

Over time, the fashion for such tiles has moved from public places to bathrooms and shower rooms, where it continues to strengthen its position. Depending on your wishes, you can choose a glossy or matte tile, with a beveled edge or a flat surface.

When tiling the walls in the shower, you can apply grout to match the tiles or use a contrasting combination, using vertical masonry or placing the tiles horizontally, that is, in the traditional way.

Ceramic tiles imitate stone or wooden surfaces. Therefore, each of you can order bathroom cladding in any style, texture and color scheme.

The bacteriological purity of tiles used for wall decoration is determined only by the degree of surface contamination and the frequency of cleaning the room. Mold fungi and pathogenic bacteria do not take root on ceramics; they can be replaced if plaque or other foreign contamination is present. To eliminate such contamination, simply wash the tiles with special detergents.

Unlike the material of ceramic tiles, the seams between the cladding are a favorite place for dirt, dust and moldy microbes to collect. As a result, the grout between the tiles changes appearance and color in just a few hours. Therefore, you need to wash the grout from time to time and treat it with an antiseptic.

1. Mosaic tiles.

The material for artistic images came to us from ancient times and became an excellent way to decorate the surfaces of many residential and utilitarian premises.

Glass, ceramic, mirror, plastic and metal mosaics can decorate the interior of any shower room. The variety of sizes, colors and shapes allows you not only to decorate complex wall surfaces, but also to realize your imagination.

In addition to the positive qualities inherent in ceramic tiles, mosaic has a number of special properties:

• the ability to create a wide variety of artistic images;
• perfect for decoration, lining individual segments, edging and zoning space;
• finishing surfaces of any complexity - rounded and convex shapes, arches, niches and a variety of recesses;
• can be glued to any surface - ceramics, acrylic, metal, wood, plaster, concrete;
• glass mosaic is much more durable than simple ceramic tiles.

Among the great variety negative qualities worth highlighting:

• high cost of installation services;
• high price for the average Russian.

This pattern of surface design using mosaic tiles is usually called pixelated. It is especially loved by homeowners and designers from all over the world. Installation does not imply strict adherence to the design, but at the same time it is an interesting way to integrate different shades of a single color into the cladding of the shower walls.

Textured, mirror mosaic, made using the tile technique - assortment facing materials The stores are full of a variety of options, it all depends on the budget and taste preferences for renovating the walls in the bathroom.

A plain mosaic of small rectangular or square chips looks great together with snow-white grout.

1. Porcelain tiles.

The material is ceramic tiles, but with high qualities durability and strength. Typically this finishing material is used as flooring, but you can often find a shower room in which the walls are lined with porcelain stoneware.

Porcelain tile is endowed with all the negative and positive qualities of ceramic tiles, but, in comparison with them, it can withstand higher loads, since you can drop heavy objects on it without worrying about chips and cracks.

Just like porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles for wall cladding are offered in a wide range of colors with ornaments and patterns; they can have different textures and imitate wooden or stone surfaces.

An original option for the interior of a bathroom with a shower can be a combination of dark porcelain stoneware finishes (for surfaces with high humidity) and light moisture-resistant plaster.

Caring for porcelain tiles is similar to the process of cleaning ceramic tiles (the use of the same cleaning agents is allowed). But at the same time you need to be as careful as possible when processing and cleaning the seams, as well as the grout between the tiles. Here antiseptics used to treat mosaic and ceramic surfaces with grout will come to your aid.

1. Marble.

One of the most durable and durable materials for finishing shower walls is natural stone. The clear favorite among natural facing materials is marble. This beautiful and noble stone can add elegance and luxury to any bathroom decor.

Among the obvious disadvantages of marble facing tiles is the high price, especially for natural materials. Finishing work is not cheap, marble does not tolerate inaccuracies during cutting, glue and special equipment for stone plates will be required. That's why marble tiles try to apply in the most damp places– an apron over the bathtub and sink, shower surfaces.

As a result of the fact that marble is durable and incredibly durable material, it is often used as flooring and for making countertops. The fall of heavy, sharp objects is not scary for him, while scratches may appear.

Some people like the patina that forms on marble surfaces over time, giving the room a noble look with a touch of antiquity. For many homeowners, such time marks are unacceptable, and in this case, rubbing with special sprays and waxes will help, as will polishing the marble. You can perform such manipulations with marble surfaces yourself if there are no cracks or scratches on the stone. Otherwise, you may need special equipment designed for polishing marble.

For some, marble cladding is a clear advantage, since this repair does not just take years. It passes from generation to generation (if, of course, the surfaces are properly cared for). For other owners, a long depreciation period natural stone will cause the abandonment of such material due to the lack of possibility of changing the situation every three to four years. In this case, it is better to consider the option of using fake diamond, which perfectly imitates natural material, but is inferior to it in durability and strength.

Marble tiles "Metro" - exactly the same traditional way, as well as the use of stone cladding to refine the entire shower room.

1. Combination of facing tiles.

The combination of different facing materials creates an interesting decoration of the shower room space. Using brightly colored mosaic tiles, you can create an impressive edging around the perimeter of a room or shower, or decorate a space or niche around a mirror. Bright spots against the background of light ceramic tiles look most advantageous.

1. Plastic for finishing the shower.

One of the easiest and most cost-effective cladding materials for shower room walls to install is plastic panels. They are usually represented by PVC panels with laminated surfaces.

You can do this kind of cladding yourself; every good owner will have all the tools you need, and a little training will allow you to quickly get the hang of this kind of finishing. Another advantage of PVC panels is their ease of maintenance - they can be cleaned with regular detergents.

An undoubted advantage of this type of finishing is the wide choice of colors and the possibility of using materials with ornaments and designs. This is a great opportunity to add individuality, brightness and personalize the image of the room to the interior of the shower room for little money.

Among the disadvantages of plastic coatings, it is worth highlighting its poor environmental friendliness. Manufacturers of PVC panels every year reduce the percentage of toxicity that almost all models of such finishing material have.

Also, the disadvantages of this surface coating include the lack of air exchange, so walls lined with this material “do not breathe.”

1. Textured (decorative) plaster.

This is the rarest way to decorate a bathroom. It consists of covering all or just some of the shower walls with moisture-resistant plaster.

Among its advantages, it is worth noting the ability to do the finishing yourself (if you have construction skills). At the same time, we are pleasantly pleased with the low cost of such repairs and the possibility of quickly changing the depreciation and furnishings of the finishing material.

The disadvantages of finishing with decorative plaster include the fragility of the material, the tendency to form condensation and temperature changes.

If we talk about color solutions, then finishing the walls with textured plaster offers the option of choosing only a single-color option. The play of color in this bathroom was achieved through the installation of LED lighting. The difference in shades is achieved through deep surface reliefs.

DIY shower wall repair: waterproofing

Thanks to high-quality waterproofing, the reliability and strength of the room increases. For this reason, waterproofing is an important part of all shower renovations.

Nowadays, a huge number of materials used for waterproofing layers are offered. It is worth highlighting several main groups of water protection:

• Pasting materials. This group includes special roll or film hydrobarriers made of polyester, fiberglass, and fiberglass impregnated with bitumen. Depending on the installation technology, such waterproofing rolls can be built-up or self-adhesive.

• Coating materials (they are often called bitumen putties). These include bitumen-polymer, bitumen, polyurethane, and bitumen-rubber putties. They are offered in the form of mastic, powder, liquid or paste. However, this group includes multi-layer or single-layer cement-polymer mixtures.

For waterproofing, the most popular are bitumen putties. Thanks to its versatility coating waterproofing It can be applied to almost any surface, but is especially suitable for wet areas and clean concrete substrates. Besides coating mastics relatively inexpensive, aesthetic, durable and do not require special repair skills. At the same time, thanks to their properties, you can spend less time on repairs.

Pasting hydrobarriers are also very good and reliable, but their installation process will be more labor-intensive. If we talk about cement-polymer mortars, they are most often used for laying tiles and for waterproofing vertical walls.

General information about shower waterproofing

If you decide to install waterproofing yourself, listen to our advice.

Scheme of building layers in the bathroom:

• primer;

conclusions

As you can see, repairing the walls in the shower room on your own will not be difficult, the main thing is to carefully familiarize yourself with the technology and choose the right materials and listen to our advice.

When spending time in nature, most Russian summer residents do not only (and not so much) relaxation as useful work. In general, it is common for a person to use his plot of land with maximum benefit. Therefore, even on small plots there are a couple of beds in which someone is sure to work. And if there are no beds, then there are lawns that also require care.

As a result, in the late afternoon, tired people want to take a shower, have dinner and rest peacefully. Therefore, usually after, which is erected first, most people try to create conditions for hygienic procedures. At the same time, not everyone wants to build a capital washing station with heated water. But a summer shower can be seen in almost every area.

Although this is a lightweight structure, the location for it must be chosen based on considerations of practicality.

You shouldn’t put the shower “wherever you have to”:

• It is advisable to choose a site located on a hill so that shower drains can be removed freely and a swamp does not form under the shower.
• Since the shower is summer, it is assumed that only solar energy will be used to heat the water. Therefore, it is necessary that the water tank located on the roof of the building be exposed to the sun as long as possible during the day. For this reason, you should not place the shower under trees or in the shade of other buildings.

Thus, the shower needs to be built on a flat or elevated open area and preferably at some distance from the house, so that there is room to organize water drainage.

You can avoid dealing with water drainage issues only if you decide not to “fool your head” with the construction of even of the simplest construction, but use a portable shower in the form of a large plastic bag with a watering can (usually its volume does not exceed 20 - 25 liters). Such an impromptu shower can be hung on any branch and used without the risk of creating a swamp after washing the whole family. The soil will accept a small volume of water a couple of times a week without problems.

In all other cases, it is imperative to take care of drainage. Moreover, soapy water is not so harmless to the surrounding soil.

Everyone decides this question for themselves, based on their own preferences, material capabilities, as well as available materials already available at the dacha (often left over).

If you purchase a plastic shower block, then this issue becomes irrelevant. The block is a single unit; all you have to do is prepare the site for its installation.

If you still decide to build with your own hands, then most likely you will plan construction frame structure. Therefore, the first thing you need to decide is what material to choose for constructing the frame.

• The most common material for a shower stall frame is wood. Firstly, at the dacha there is almost always a small supply of bars and boards left over after building a house or kitchen. Secondly, even an inexperienced person in construction can erect a wooden frame. The only condition: it is necessary to take into account that the shower cabin is constantly exposed to water, so everything wooden structures it is necessary to treat with impregnations that prevent deep wetting of the wood, which will inevitably lead to its rapid destruction. It is also important to treat the part of the wooden posts that will be buried in the ground. To do this, you can use bitumen mastic, waste oil or special impregnations.
• The second most popular material for the frame is lightweight metallic profile or profile steel pipes. Threaded connections are used to assemble the steel frame.

• Recently, plastic pipes (polypropylene or PVC) are often used for shower cabin frames, which are simply placed on pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground. Plastic frame is inexpensive and most resistant to moisture. True, buildings on such a basis are not distinguished by their rigidity and strength. In addition, most building wall materials cannot be used to cover such a shower. Usually, dense opaque material serves as a wall fence here. plastic film or tarpaulin. And you can’t put a large water tank on such a frame. But the shower turns out to be collapsible and in the fall it can be easily turned into “spare parts” and removed until spring.

The material for wall cladding is determined by the selected type of frame. If it is wood or metal, then you can cover the shower with almost anything, from wood to corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, plastic and other modern materials.

There are two ways to organize water drainage from the shower stall:

• arrange a drainage hole;
• perform simple drainage.

The second option is suitable for a summer shower, which is used only periodically, and the volume of waste is small. Drainage can be arranged directly under the shower by removing part of the soil and replacing it with a cushion of sand and gravel or broken brick. The area can also be paved with cobblestones.

If the soil on the site is clayey, then you will have to remove the soil to a depth of 100 cm and fill the hole with alternating layers of sand and crushed stone. The top layer is crushed stone, the bottom layer is sand.

If you plan to actively use the shower using detergents, you will have to start constructing a drain hole. It can be located either directly under the building, but it is better still a little to the side.

If the soil on the site is normal, then a hole 1–1.5 m deep is sufficient. If it is clayey, then it is better to go 2–2.5 m deeper. The walls of the pit must be protected from collapse by lining them with brick or stone. Many people use for this purpose car tires large diameter. Often, an ordinary garden barrel without a bottom, dug into the ground, is also used as a pit.

The size depends on the planned size of the shower stall. The room should be small, but convenient for use by all family members. Therefore, most often the shower room is divided into 2 parts - the “dressing room”, where dry clothes are left, and the shower itself.

Most often, cabins have the following dimensions:

• width – 100 – 120 cm;
• length – 140 – 160 cm.

There are buildings of both smaller and larger sizes. But those that are smaller than 1.2 * 1.2 m are not very convenient.

Can be used as a shower floor wooden gratings that do not interfere with the drainage of water into the drainage pit.

Also on sale you can find steel pallets with drain hole. Such a pan is connected through a pipe to the drainage pit. But its installation will require concreting the site. The presence of such a tray allows you to avoid drainage under the shower.

For comfortable operation of the shower, you will need to install a tank above it. big size. Its volume is selected based on the number of family members and the approximate water consumption of 40 l/person.

Metal or plastic barrels painted dark can be used as a tank (or tanks). They are mounted directly above the shower. Now on sale you can find flat water tanks directly intended for installation on the roof of a shower room. Modular showers usually come with a built-in tank.

If the tank is large, then its installation may require the construction of a separate supporting frame.

To maintain the hygienic purity of the water in the tank, it must be possible to wash it with running water and drain it dirty water at the lowest point of the container. This will remove sediment from the bottom of the tank and disinfect it. In order to avoid mosquito larvae and debris from getting into the container, it is better to cover the top opening of the tank with a fine mesh.

For those who want to use the shower not only in summer, but also in autumn, tanks with installed heating elements are available for sale. Being connected to the mains, they allow you to quickly heat the required volume of water to the desired temperature.

Since it is difficult to lift water to a height of more than 2.5 m manually, the container is usually filled using a pump.

What else needs to be considered

Considering that in summer the daylight hours are quite long, the soul can be neglected.

The difficulty is that the room is small and almost always damp. When organizing electric lighting, you must follow all the rules and precautions for laying electrical wires. This will allow you not to be afraid of electric shock while washing.

It is better to organize a small window in the shower wall. The transmitted light is quite enough for comfortable washing.

Humidity in the shower

To ensure that the shower from the sanitary room does not turn into a breeding ground for dampness and mold, it is necessary to provide good ventilation of the room.

If the shower is light, with holes, then it will dry out well. If the room is solid with solid walls, then you need to provide a hole in the upper part of the wall. It will allow heated moist air to quickly leave the shower space and speed up drying.

This is a purely business matter. But still, a beautifully designed shower can serve as a decoration for the area. Therefore, you can plant moisture-loving plants near it, which, given the abundance of water, will quickly grow, and your shower will turn into a fairy-tale house that both adults and children will be happy to visit.

Nothing relaxes you more after a hard day at work at the dacha than a summer shower. Water not only calms, but also refreshes, distracts from unpleasant thoughts and relieves stress. But what to do if there is no shower on site? If you don’t want to splash around in a trough or basin, you need to take care of comfort in field conditions and design a refreshing summer shower for your favorite summer house with your own hands, using ready-made photos and drawings.

How to build a summer shower with your own hands

Summer shower takes one of the first places among all country houses. Sometimes this is not just a way to wash yourself after a day of cultivating the land has come to an end, but also the only way to cool down in the heat.

To build a summer shower, choose a place well lit by the sun

First you need to choose a place to install the shower structure. To do this, you should examine your site for secluded places.

On the other hand, this place should not be far from the main building, so that you do not have to freeze on the way to a warm house if you decide to take a shower on a cool day.

Advice! If a solar heated tank is provided, ensure that nothing obscures the water tank.

After you have found appropriate place, choose the optimal dimensions for your cabin. Please note that for ease of movement a person needs a room of at least 1 m 2. If a dressing room is planned for changing clothes and storing dry things while swimming, the building increases by another 60-70 cm. The height of the shower stall is approximately 2.5 m. So, the estimated dimensions of the shower for the dacha are 170x100x250 cm.

Scheme: construction of a summer shower stall made of polycarbonate

If the structure is supposed to be wooden, then the next stage of construction will be the construction of a frame made of wooden beams or a metal corner.

Next are the walls. Please note that for better ventilation, the walls should be no less than 20-30 cm away from the ceiling and pallet. The walls are constructed mainly from those materials that were left over during the construction of the main dacha building.

Water supply in a country shower

When installing a shower for a summer house with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for the water supply and drainage in advance. The drainage system is laid during the construction of the foundation, and the supply of clean water is organized during the installation of the tank.

The water supply to the garden shower is supplied from a remote source. In order to ensure water supply, it is necessary to connect the water source to the receiver.

Diagram: example of water supply for a summer shower

The water supply pipeline is installed as follows:

• threads are applied to 2 sections of pipe (30-35 cm each);
• screw a clamping nut onto one end of each tube;
• a hole is made in the upper part of the water container corresponding to the diameter of the pipe;
• a clamping nut is used to secure the pipe into the opening of the tank;
• a similar hole is made at the bottom of the tank;
• the second pipe is inserted into the tank and secured with a clamping nut.

Advice! To avoid loss of water supplies, Special attention pay attention to tightness. All areas where connecting work is carried out should be sealed with rubber gaskets or silicone sealant.

Draining dirty water

Water flow is organized in different ways. Some summer residents do not care about it at all. The most civilized way of all to dispose of used water is to connect to a central sewer system, but not every summer resident has this opportunity.

So, water drainage from a shower for a summer house can be done in several ways:

• to the central sewer;
• into a drainage hole;
• into a septic tank or sewage pit;
• to the garden.

When building a shower for a summer house with your own hands, the best options are drainage and waste pits. In a drainage pit, water goes into the deep layers of the soil. Its construction will not require major expenses. It's convenient and reliable way drainage of used water in dacha conditions.

The drainage can be located either under the shower itself or not far from it, if the area allows. To begin with, a hole is dug with a side more than a meter and depth from 50 cm.

Water drainage equipment

When removed upper layer soil, the preparation of the pit begins. First, you need to compact the visible layer of earth, then half the hole is filled with coarse gravel, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc. are also suitable, crushed stone is laid on top and compacted again. A wooden, plastic or steel shower tray and shower frame are installed on top of everything.

Some gardeners are sure that soap and water does not harm plants. If, when building a shower for your dacha with your own hands, you decide to drain wastewater directly into the garden, you should choose a plot of land for this that is well lit by the sun, otherwise you will end up with a dirty swamp with croaking frogs at your dacha.

Advice! When building a summer shower, it is better not to save energy on water drainage. Discharging large quantities of wastewater directly into the garden can cause an increase in the number of mosquitoes, flies, as well as the appearance of fungus and mold.

Summer shower tank

When choosing a tank for a summer shower, be sure to take into account the number of people in the summer cottage at the same time. A tank is selected for 30-40 liters per person per day. The container is painted black to make the most of the sun's rays. If you use water to supply metal structure, then the inside on the north side must be pasted with a reflector so as not to lose the heat received during the day.

The tank for a summer shower should be dark - this way it will heat up faster from the sun

Important! When choosing a container, you should take into account that a tank with a volume of more than 300 liters may not have time to warm up.

It is best to choose a flat container, then the sun's rays will be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the water, and the weight of the tank will be distributed over the roof. In order for the water to heat up as quickly as possible, a so-called “greenhouse” is installed above the tank. On wooden frame pull plastic film, which creates a greenhouse effect and prevents heat from escaping.

A round tank warms up better and faster in the sun than a rectangular one

If you are planning country trips in the cold season, then it is imperative to consider the design of the tank with electrically heated water. When the air temperature is below 18°C, the water in the tank will not warm up properly and swimming will not be very comfortable. In this case, a heating element or instantaneous water heater is installed in the tank.

Important! The heating element can only be installed in a metal container.

To make bathing in the shower as comfortable and enjoyable as possible, a shower head is embedded into the tank. It should not be of too large a diameter: the larger the watering can, the stronger the water pressure should be to activate each nozzle in it. Therefore, if a shower with a large shower head is provided, it is necessary to install an additional booster pump, which will create pressure.

Electric water heating tank for summer shower

An economical option for building a country shower

People often think about how to build a summer shower for their garden with their own hands, using a minimum amount of funds. Such a shower will provide a minimum number of people and provide maximum savings.

The simplest shower design is installed near the blank wall of the main building. A water container is attached to the same wall and a shower head is attached. The gender of such a soul is wooden pallet or a concrete area covered with a rubber mat for convenience. The walls of such a cabin are made of cellophane curtains or tarpaulin wrapped around a wooden frame.

Shower of simple design with plastic curtain

Any available means can serve as shelves for soap and shampoo. Even a plastic bottle, cut in half and nailed to the wall. You can put shampoo in the lower part of the bottle, and soap or a washcloth in the upper part, with the neck, so that the water can flow freely and not stagnate.

Of course, this kind of construction does not look as aesthetically pleasing as a capital one, but it has a right to exist.

Capital construction of a garden shower

In order to carry out the capital construction of a country shower, it is necessary to create a project, find drawings and photos of the planned building and prepare the materials from which it will be built.

To create a capital building, a foundation is required

Building a permanent garden shower with your own hands is more difficult and expensive. But the durability of such a building justifies all the costs. To build a major summer shower you will need:

• sand-lime brick;
• cement;
• sand;
• broken bricks or large crushed stone for the foundation;
• slate or other roofing material;
• polyurethane foam;
• waterproof varnish or paint;
• Decoration Materials(plaster);
• sealing and waterproofing.

The first thing you need to do is prepare the drainage hole and pour the foundation. There are several foundation options.

Pile foundation. In each of the corners of the future shower, they drill a hole at least a meter deep and drive metal pillars or pipes with a diameter of 90 mm or more into it. Each of the pipes rises 20 cm above the ground. The pillars are concreted in the ground, and a pin is welded to the top of the pipe.

Pile foundation for a country summer shower

Next they do bottom trim soul. For tying, a 10x10 cm wooden beam is used, which is laid on concrete pillars and secured with a nut to the stud. The beams are attached to each other by connecting them into a lock and tightened with self-tapping screws. This type of foundation is suitable for wooden buildings.

Columnar foundation. For this type of foundation, it is necessary to dig 6 holes 20x20 cm and up to 50 cm deep. In each of the holes, formwork is made in the middle of the depth. To ensure the strength of the foundation, each pillar is reinforced (3 metal rods connected with wire are inserted). Cover the bottom of the pit with roofing felt and fill it with cement. To save money, crushed stone and sand are added to the solution. A 20-25 cm metal pin is placed in the center of the column, most of which is immersed in the solution.

Columnar foundation for a country shower

If you plan to make brick walls, then a trench 30-40 cm deep is dug around the perimeter, on which formwork is also made and filled with a solution of cement, sand and crushed stone.

Important! Be sure to treat the bars protective agent. Even used machine oil will do.

Next, you can make the frame of the shower cabin or remove the brick walls and install a shower tray. You should definitely use a vertical level; it will ensure the walls are level and will prevent your building from falling to one side over time. Be sure to design windows and ventilation holes in your garden shower, so the cabin will be well ventilated and will not get damp.

Summer shower on a columnar foundation

With my own hands. Let's look at the simplest and most accessible ways to construct such a necessary building.

We often spend our summer at the dacha in order to be closer to nature for some time, away from noisy highways and the speed of the metropolis. But the holiday will not be entirely pleasant if we do not have the opportunity to take an invigorating shower, which allows us to wash away dirt and dust, and also makes us fresh and clean on a hot summer day.

Building an outdoor shower yourself is not so difficult, despite the fact that there are many options for its implementation, some of which are quite simple and do not require serious investments, both time and money. So let's get started.

Ready-made building for a summer residence

If you are too busy a person, or too lazy to build a shower and you have in cash, then you can simply buy a finished product. Or order a frame from a craftsman and install the tank yourself. And that’s it, you can use this wonderful device!

If warm water is enough for you, you don’t have to use electric heating devices for this. In hot weather, it is enough to install a container of the required volume from available material above the booth, paint it black so that there is better heating by the sun's rays.

The tank will heat up more quickly if you place it in a transparent box made of glass or plastic. Such a structure will allow you to provide yourself with warm water even in cool weather, the main thing is that the sun is not hidden behind clouds.

This option will be the simplest and most convenient for lazy people and money-lovers.

Open design

An outdoor summer shower built with your own hands is suitable for quickly washing away accumulated dirt. This design very simple and easy to assemble from scrap materials.

This open device will help strengthen the body and increase immunity.

It is best to make such a summer shower with your own hands near some wall, installing a supply pipe with a tap on it and. To protect yourself from prying eyes, you can attach a curtain. This requires a pipe arc bent with curtain loops.

This is possible if your summer cottage has running water. If there is no water supply, you can attach a suitable container to the wall and you can take water procedures.

It is also necessary to protect the building wall and floor covering from the destructive process of water. You can line the wall with water-repellent, and put artificial stone or other material on the floor. Just the material should not be slippery, otherwise there may be a risk of injury.

If the constructed outdoor shower is located next to the developed site, then no equipment is needed - the water used will evaporate and be absorbed into the ground.

How to build a shower in your country house with your own hands?

To begin, select a suitable and empty place in your dacha to install a new building. If you rarely use the shower, the wastewater can be poured directly into the ground.

But in case of frequent washing, you need to think about diverting a large amount of water to a certain place. If there is a septic tank, then wastewater can be directed there, of course, if the volume of the tank allows.

After excavation work, you can make the frame of the summer shower with your own hands, which must be solid (strong), because it needs to withstand the weight of the tank. The frame can be made from:

• boards (bars) reinforced with metal corners;
• steel angles or pipes.

A metal structure will be more durable, but will require annual painting to eliminate the possibility of corrosion, while a wooden frame is much easier to complete.

Do-it-yourself summer shower - drawings for construction:

The material for the walls can be any available means:

• wooden lining;
• plastic panels;
• flat slate and much more.

Look at the photo of a DIY summer shower:

The inside of the cabin will become more beautiful and stronger if it is lined with plastic clapboard, the floor is made of boards in the form of a lattice, treated wood material from splinters

Consider the erosion of the soil under the shower over time. You can install a plastic or iron tray with ebb for the floor.

Or the simplest option is to pour a layer of crushed stone under the floor.

Look interesting video how to make a budget summer shower in the country:

P.S. As you can see, it is possible to build a shower for your dacha on your own and you do not need to buy expensive materials; you can use what is available.

As Ostap Bender would say, a shower for a dacha is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a remedy of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off washing after a weekend at the dacha until they arrive home consult doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; There are no similar data for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. By spending 2-3 times less, or even using scrap materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bathing procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is revealed - from a slimy kennel, the dream of a greedy dermatologist (there will be a lot of patients, they will start giving money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the appearance of the building site, to structures made from, for example, construction waste, at the sight of whom he nods his head in understanding experienced designer, see fig.

But, characteristically, there is a medical correlation with the type of shower - purchased, different price categories, or homemade, cannot be traced. A “super-duper company” for 70-100 rubles, with automation and touch-remote control, can turn out to be a breeding ground for infection, and a shower concocted from the dacha in the country will faithfully stand guard over the cleanliness and health of the owners for many years and decades.

Do-it-yourselfers and manufacturers are not to blame here; both of them do not lack effort, skill and consideration. It’s simple - no one really knows how to make it, a country shower. If any regulatory rules its devices exist, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that you need to do a country shower correctly in essence, i.e. so that it washes, and does not contaminate, and so that the contents of wastewater do not kill the earth and spoil the harvest, but how? It’s dark here, like in a Khrushchev bathroom when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard volume of runoff, and at the dacha it is several times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry toilets) allow you to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the cesspool, but fundamentally the processes in the cesspool do not change. What volume and design do you need for an outdoor shower? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other components and structural elements. In fact, those who want to make a country shower competently pull according to the norm, first from here, then from there, and then maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they’ll separate and things will go wrong.

Well, let’s try to include what Mother Nature has so far deprived the American president of so far, in order to say at the end: “Well, at least I’ve found a good ideal!” We will design a summer shower for ourselves based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself nor the water for it should cause harm to those washing, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - shower drainage should not harm the environment either in the short term (in the form of compliance of the harvest from the site with sanitary standards) or in the long term (in the form of water quality from local water supply sources) perspective, in space and time.
• Practicality, which is also functionality - it should be not only possible, but pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the dacha.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a dacha should, at a minimum, not spoil the landscape design of the site, but, preferably, fit organically into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, dismountable or not conspicuous.
• Cost-effective - building a shower should require a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, without sacrificing any of the previous qualities.

We will use existing norms and rules, but for verification purposes, so as not to invent nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. The data in the regulatory documents is the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single set of data for country showers, we will have to turn to the basics. To build a shower correctly, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle will then be easier. Actually, in this order:

1. Base.
2. Drain and sump.
3. Choice of design.
4. Possibility of combining functions (shower combined with toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, shut-off valves.
8. Additional equipment – ​​water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. When it is violated, it no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of things like pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just hot or warm water.

Let’s say it’s +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: insulation will only be useful (let the readers forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washroom. Without them, you will have to tremble and cower for 2-5 minutes until the warmth of the spray from the watering can warms up the booth. And in the meantime hot water It may run out, the tank is not a vat tank.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. We'll see how to achieve this when it comes to additional equipment; For now, as they say, let’s tie a knot.

Children's question

Why is there a separate shower? In the apartment he is together. Because the dacha plots are not equipped with sewerage. Here it is appropriate to remember the rule: the cesspool must be located at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in the miasma, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash away the foundation of the house with all that it entails. It is still possible to install a shower in a country house. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-season.

Note: a bioseptic tank that produces almost no harmful fumes can, under certain conditions, be moved 4-5 m closer to the house. But this topic already relates to the construction of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

Need for zero cycle Country shower work is not required in the following cases, see fig. below:

• When using a compact portable shower, on the left in Fig.
• If the shower with adjacent outbuildings is ready-made modular, in the center in Fig.
• If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes(propylene or PVC) with soft lining, right there.

A compact shower in a suitcase (there is a large selection on sale) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of heating water; It is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness and mobility are immediately lost. Container - rinse for one or two people. This does not require a shower or a cesspool - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley of emissions.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are equipped with adjustable legs, which, when installed permanently, allows them to compensate for current soil movements. Modular seats common use Citizens are more familiar with public dry toilets, but in addition to them and modular showers, they also produce kitchens, shelters, etc., so that you can assemble a full-fledged utility unit from the modules. This pleasure is by no means cheap; more modules are used to organize the convenience of professional field teams. A cesspool is not required, you only need to promptly change the filler of the built-in septic tank.

The frames of soft showers are placed on stakes made of reinforcing bars driven into the ground. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but with self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because The frame is lightly loaded and absolutely repairable. The covering is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in hot weather the cabin is less parky, in cool weather it is warmer, and tarpaulin, unlike film, does not stick unpleasantly to a wet body. This design will withstand a 12-magnitude earthquake, as long as the earth itself does not disappear from under the shower. A cesspool is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more substantial and more attractive on it.

Under plastic

It is possible to build a shower stall from light, elastic and chemically resistant materials with rigid cladding (see below) without a foundation, even on very heaving soil. To prevent it from tipping over, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-fluffy pillow is enough. Specifically, sand and gravel backfill in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the cushion is approximate; in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages they don’t stand out on meter-long chernozems, so you don’t have to dig very deep, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 is gravel, this is the minimum. What if it becomes warped after winter, you can move the booth, straighten the cushion, and put it back as it was.

Note: The plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes, placed on fittings driven into the ground, just like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the bottom of the pillow, and better, if local conditions allow, to the freezing depth, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

In principle, a wooden shower can also be placed simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the supporting frame and floor from rotting for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can maintain its strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi and bacteria will get to where they put their feet and where their bodies rub much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

An example of the implementation of a foundation for a country shower

The means to ensure these requirements have been known for a long time - columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and freely “acting out” wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second one is preferable. There is no need to buy expensive ones; it is better to make do with homemade ones. Simply - sections of pipes with a diameter of 60-150 mm (according to availability) with ends flattened into a spear. Next - a sledgehammer or a homemade woman (it’s much easier to work with it), and - to the calculated freezing depth for the given area.

The location of the piles is 1 per corner and every full or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After trimming the protruding ends with a grinder using a hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; The lower support frame - grillage - is placed on them and tightened with nuts and washers 40-60 mm in diameter.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drilled piles made from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells are drilled to the same freezing depth using a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage attachment for it, with which you can drill wells under a strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcement of piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to the above case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut to height using a grinder with a circle on the stone before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts walled up to a depth of 120 mm.

Metal look

The foundation for a shower on a metal frame is the same as for a wooden one: If wood rots, then metal rusts. In this case, driven metal piles are preferable, and a 50-80 mm channel grillage is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in a country house is a rarity, labor-intensive and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat. It is enough to pass the return from the tank to the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator(see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30-mm packaging foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and ceiling height 2.2 m at +8 outside, after 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, they are heavy, and therefore The foundation for a brick shower needs to be strong and stable. Since the building is in this case small, a slab monolithic foundation turns out to be optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. Its design is simple: a solid (required!) pillow is placed on the non-puffy pillow described above. reinforced concrete slab 170-300 mm thick and with a projection of 0.3-0.5 m beyond the contour of the building, this will be a blind area.

The brand of concrete does not matter much, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm made of 12 mm rod. If you plan to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to cast the slab on site, surrounding the recess for the barrel with formwork.

cesspool

As already mentioned, to maintain sewage pit biochemistry necessary for recycling wastewater to a naturally recyclable level of pollution, its moisture content must be kept within certain limits. For example, the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks clearly indicate: do not fill, it will sour and stink. Don’t let it dry out, the microflora will die and stop working altogether.

It is obvious that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool at the dacha. But it also matters chemical composition: there is practically no household organic matter, a breeding ground for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Poligraf Poligrafych Sharikov from “ Heart of a Dog» toilet. But there is an excess of alkalis that are harmful to them (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc.

Therefore, discharging wastewater from the shower and toilet in a dacha into a common pit is a gross mistake from a biochemical point of view. The kitchen can also be used together with the toilet, but the shower needs to be placed separately in a special pit. In a city apartment the situation is different: there, until the wastewater reaches treatment facilities, everything will mix and react so much that only the percentage composition of simple connections and elements. In any case, it is impossible to build a separate sewer system for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: What kind of abominations do researchers sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it’s something necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: should we take out the extra 2 cubic meters of soil? Since the septic tank does not recycle the shower drain? And one hundred square meters of land is lost: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, the consumer supervision department will shriek and shy away when the analysis is done.

This is not at all necessary, if you take into account the time of heating the water, the subsequent maximum frequency of using the country shower and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time flow). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to release the runoff into the ground little by little, so that organic acids from the soil have time to neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer so as not to kill soil micro-living creatures. And organic acids, a product of its vital activity, will leak from above.

Calculations, which, unfortunately, there is no space to describe here, show that a drain of 100 l/hour or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this is, as they say, above the roof), must be discharged into the ground at a depth of no less than 2 thickness of the humus layer. Conclusion: a regular 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will also work, as long as its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (let’s take the tank’s capacity for this), and its height is at least 2 times the thickness of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the shell of the pit can be made from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically add bleach to the pit; in the resulting side cavities, with frequent use, wastewater will stagnate.

From theory to practice

It is not difficult to make a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel. First, we dig a pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical; a plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom will no longer be needed, and we cut off a segment from the lid to make inspection hatch; it will need a tight lid.

We install the barrel in the pit and fill it back with soil. Next is the filter. Pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool in a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, stir 1-1.5 kg of any clay until it becomes “milk”, and pour the backfill evenly in a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water has gone and the clay has dried, we stir up the filter layer, often piercing it thickly with a pointed reinforcement. All that remains is to weld the lid, and after building the shower, insert the siphon spout into the neck and seal it with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and supply drainage from the kitchen here; in terms of bio-chemistry and simple chemistry, it is more similar to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: If there is construction going on nearby and the concrete mixer is free, you can mix porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of the porous mixture are simply dumped into a cesspool and leveled.

Odor is excluded from such a cesspool by design. It is convenient to inspect and, if necessary, clean it, and the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; The useful area, except for that under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the author of the article’s dacha, a shower cesspool made from a barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. There was no need to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was overgrown with a dense layer of some chemical compounds, but not rusted through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitary station, which invariably showed their complete suitability for food. For testing, they drilled a water well 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower and toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the dacha is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complex and expensive septic tank, not to mention an antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool altogether by installing a powder closet. More precisely, a powder toilet, because... This is a French idea. Sortie in French exit; toilet, respectively - latrine. The powder closet can only be used in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to arrange a shower area, and in what cases we can do without it, it’s time to decide - what kind of shower will we make? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact - not compact

You don’t have to take a portable shower with you everywhere. Nobody bothers you to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers you to fill a waterskin with hot water, heated over a fire or in a stove, immediately before washing. The only additional thing required is fencing.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold complete with the shower itself or as an option. But, frankly speaking, it’s not worth the candle - it’s easier to make a shower fence yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option– a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see figure, and a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe; you can get by with a propylene water pipe, put on the same pins made of reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew the curtain from colored tarpaulin (propylene is also preferable); why - stated above.

Cabin on the street

Users of “permanent” showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters is not enough for one, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower stall, and the problem of drainage has arisen. This is usually solved by draining water down a slope or gutter into a flowerbed, on the assumption that the flowers are not eaten. But from the point of view careful attitude to nature this is, of course, wrong. And the soil, if the shower is used frequently, may turn sour, and then the entire flowerbed will disappear. It’s better to choose the time, at the lower edge of the drainage slope (usually the blind area of ​​a house), make a catcher bell out of cement, and bury a 40-mm socket in the ground PVC sewer pipe to the sewer pit. For the one described above, one 3-m pipe is enough; its slope needs to be 4-10 cm/m.

If you want to quickly and easily replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How a simple rigid-sheathed booth is made from a booth with a curtain is shown schematically in Fig. Within the simplified blind area of ​​the building, which is only 60 cm wide, we get a fairly comfortable (45 cm aisles, semicircular washing area 60x120 cm in plan) and completely invisible booth. Sheathing and fence material can be any material that is sufficiently rigid and allows some bending. Polycarbonate is best; we will talk about it later. In this case, the fence of the labyrinthine entrance can be curved, resulting in a quite elegant extension.

Shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and build: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with soft opaque lining, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is placed in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to move it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will fully tolerate the increased flow.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on a foundation; as we will see below, it may not exist. A major shower must have a changing room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashionable. However, when washing, there is no need to demonstrate swimsuit models with graceful forms or a sculpted torso, as shown in advertising photographs.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and hems of clothing. Having become limp, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases exactly in those places where you least want them. According to the rules field work in countries that widely use seasonal migrant agricultural workers, i.e. Unaccustomed to digging in the ground, after a shift, after washing, be sure to put on clean underwear. Outerwear can be left to work, but underwear can only be fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not yet dirt, and then it falls off on its own.

How a shower with a changing room should be arranged is shown in Fig. dimensions - in cm. Clothes are protected from splashes by a curtain, and shoes are protected from getting wet by a grille, wooden or made of propylene pipes with self-tapping screws, see below. In this case, a curtain made of film is more suitable - a tarpaulin, not blown by the wind, will take a long time to dry, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, it can resist.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that when bending over dropped soap they don’t knock down the door or break the walls with their fifth point, the dimensions of the washing room in plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be on the larger side.

All in one

The change house at the dacha does not play the same role as at construction sites and field work. In any case, the cesspool must be located as far from housing as the conditions on the site allow. And having a meal, once you’ve escaped the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and healthier in the open air. Therefore, a dacha cabin often includes a kitchen with a veranda along with a shower and toilet.

The ultimate, so to speak, design diagrams for country cabins are shown in Fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet – powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Purpose – temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. The walls are made of aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is a flat slate slate. If there are a lot of people, a large shower can also be used as a refuge; The size of the kitchen allows you to build or install a wood stove. It can be built, with the average skill of a craftsman and the presence of a helper, over a weekend, not counting the technological break for gaining concrete strength and time for finishing work.

Note, joke: Don’t rush to build something like this, otherwise who knows when you’ll get around to a real house.

In the house

A country shower in a house, since it is in a residential area, must meet all sanitation and hygiene requirements. This is a separate topic; we will discuss some features in relation to the dacha further along the course of the presentation.

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too labor-intensive and expensive. In a cabin measuring up to 1.5 x 1.5 m, if a tongue-and-groove board is used for the flooring, logs are not needed. If the cabin is not square, cut the decking boards to the size of the short side, this will be stronger.

To prevent the wood from rotting from moisture, it, of course, needs to be treated. Nowadays, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with zinc oil or titanium white, etc. Preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; The second treatment can be done an hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for further use in the evening if they were processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the next morning.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. You just need to read on the packaging to see if the product is intended for impregnation under pressure; this is not suitable. It is advisable to carry out impregnation in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

3-4 hours after impregnation you can apply acrylic lacquer in 2 layers. The first one will dry out in the evening, then you can varnish it a second time. The next morning the floor can be laid. Thus, if you choose a nice day, you can finish a floor that will last at least 10 years in a weekend, and still have time left.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you don't already know, come in low and high varieties. The first ones are placed in a cutout or recess in the floor, and the second ones are actually a standing bathtub: they are installed on legs and equipped with a screen. Both come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580 mm, straight and angular, round or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shape. Made from acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the latter are cheaper.

For a cottage with a separate shower on the premises, a straight, low shower tray is needed, see figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Easy installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and a pallet is placed immediately before it hardens; the squeezed-out excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and work: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the inside width of the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of most of the flooring. It is enough to cover the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in the hole.
• Cheap: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel tray with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Durability in dacha conditions: acrylic pallets in dachas do not withstand the expected service life, because... They are afraid of abrasive wear by sand, which cannot be avoided outside the city.

Note: if there is a shower with a dressing room, you can take a tray 800x1000, see above. If there are people at the dacha with above average corpulence, then the best would be a 1200x1200 pallet

A country shower in a house requires a high tray. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the complete pattern. And even then, the slotting and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus cutting a channel for the sewer pipe. If the house has not yet been built, there is also no need to include a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the installation step of the joists turns out to be too large for a flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high tray complete with a cabin and screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes up much less usable space in a small room and turns out to be even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for installation, it is advisable to do it yourself. Firstly, it will be too expensive for the master to travel out of town, he wastes a day, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and drainage at the dacha are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the subtleties of the corners:

In addition, before purchasing, you will need to read the original instructions, because The installation methods for showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under your feet is a must to prevent your shoes from getting wet. In a washing room with a low tray, a grate above it is highly desirable, because... due to the lack of a threshold, the danger of slipping and falling when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to boards 100x40. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but it is advisable, instead of varnishing, to coat the grate with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear by shoe soles will increase significantly. And for the floor, coating with a compound will not be superfluous; In this case, the pan may not be sealed with foam; the thick mixture will close the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the prices for varnish, even cheaper, grille is obtained from PP pipes assembled with self-tapping screws. Pipes need 1/2″; installation step – 1.5 outer diameter. The pitch of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the lattice, run a little bit into all the gaping ends. polyurethane foam so that the grate inside does not become sour from dampness.

Tank

A shower tank for a dacha must be equipped with a sanitary drainage with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in Fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least a week), the tank is completely emptied through drainage. It is advisable to drain the sediment regularly, with the same frequency, even with constant use. Please note that at the dacha the probability of spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms getting into the tank is many times higher - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author knows of a case where... crucian carp snouts were found in the shower tank. They obviously ate mosquito larvae that swarmed there.

The second condition is that the selection pipe must be placed higher so that it sprays from the watering can. pure water, not suck. Finally, if the water is heated in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater’s power will go to waste. That is, the hot water supply pipe should be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from a water supply system, then it requires a float valve and an overflow with a clearing area of ​​at least 2 times that of the supply pipe. There needs to be enough clearance above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, completely blocking the water supply. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in Fig.

For a manually filled tank, the pipe layout changes, because... The water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the hot water supply must be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the outlet source, and the mouth of the supply pipe must be located further away from the outlet source; Selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sediment from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

What is it made of?

Ready-made tanks for showers of different sizes, containers fully equipped with fittings, are available for sale in a wide range. But, since our task is to implement everything entirely with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks for country showers are made from barrels laid on their sides; then it is convenient to place a drainage system, and the loss of water into sediment becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out in a 200-liter steel barrel and through it, after welding the pipes, the yacht container is painted from the inside acrylic enamel or the same compound for repairing bathtubs. The outdated long-term method is to prime with a rust primer and paint with red lead and oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but the problem of sealing the connections arises: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and they cannot be connected by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic barrels are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install M12-M16 threaded fittings with a flange and a rubber gasket, and on the outside - also with a gasket and washer; everything is tightened with a nut. To prevent the pipe from being torn out by thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: the alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself; after 2-3 seasons the joints begin to leak.

About a tank from an old washing machine

It's no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washes quickly, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the input and output of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners By covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we will obtain effective solar heating of water (see below), because, repeatedly reflected from the internal shiny walls, the radiation of the Sun will be almost completely absorbed by the water.

Cabin

Grillage

The supporting frame of the cabin is most often made of wood; under dacha conditions, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, timber of 100x100 or even 60x60 is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for heavy-duty showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for flooring, but instead of varnishing, it is impregnated twice or thrice with heated bitumen mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will ensure durability of at least 12 years; EPE, penetrating deeply into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the tray, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of reserve. So, for a low pallet this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. 2-3 more steps are needed at the entrance.

Frame

A wooden shower is assembled, just like - on load-bearing poles, only the problems of the roof disappear: there is either no roof at all, or it is simply sloping. The wall frames are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or the same board, spread in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cabin.

On metal carcass Usually there is a professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2. Collect profile frame welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - using self-tapping screws - but they do not last long; this material is not intended for external use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2″ and 3/4″ propylene water pipes. The assembly diagram is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, there is no need to solder the plastic; it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe fits into them more tightly, and assemble them with self-tapping screws. Phosphated (black) ones hold up better in the shower. The diameter of the screws is 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not stick out or get scratched.

Sheathing

In general, any sheet finishing materials for external use are suitable for covering a shower: corrugated sheets, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, the top row in Fig. they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Of all the cladding materials, polycarbonate stands out. Its main advantage is that the polycarbonate shower is self-heating. The peculiarities of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap below. Cellular polycarbonate and was originally developed for covering greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is lined on all sides, cramped, i.e. Its glazing area is large relative to its volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of structure 2R with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for covering the shower. There is no need to be afraid of peeking: milky, non-translucent polycarbonate is produced specifically for showers.

Second important factor– a honeycomb sheet, if oriented vertically with internal channels and bent, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PSS): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very durable and lightweight round cabin can be made on a frame from just 2 hoops bent from PP pipe, upper and lower. The hoops will also be pre-stressed and will add a fair amount of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly wrapping the sheet to a curved template and heating it for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular for original showers without frame, see fig. on right.

Good old wood is also widely used for showers, pre-treated as for flooring, or even raw, at least in the form of wattle, the bottom row in Fig. higher. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for large showers under the roof - wood retains heat well. Heat loss through wood paneling from a forty-piece board is less than half a brick from a brick board.

Note: use layered and modified materials for shower cladding wood materials– plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF – undesirable, they delaminate.

Armature

What distinguishes a country garden shower from a regular shower is, first of all, the shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes an adjusting valve, see fig. If the dacha has separate hot water, then this is not suitable - there are no diffusers with a standard two-way valve on sale. However, it is not difficult to make a watering can with a valve yourself; it does not have any fundamental features. Other shut-off valves are any ordinary ones, but it is easier and cheaper to make pipelines flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and warming

Now let’s finally understand what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, heating the washing area will ensure that the return flow from the tank to the water heater passes through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of residential premises, this scheme is a complete heresy, but in the shower it is quite workable without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a low-power flow-through gas boiler or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. Let's leave both of them, because... make them in accordance with safety requirements outside industrial conditions impossible: a heating element with grounding is only the basis, you also need automatic temperature control, emergency protection against boiling, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to scale fouling or sediment accumulation, and some other necessary little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, which summer residents have been using since time immemorial, is to heat the water with the Sun. But the well-known tank covered in bitumen is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (non-selective) paint is black only in visible light, but reflects IR quite well.

2 methods of primitive solar water heating are shown in Fig. on right. The first (left position) uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, which is on the right pos. The hose’s own heat capacity is used: when the water flows, it gives off the accumulated heat to it, so it is possible to obtain more warm water than was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and potty

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and time of year: clouds have rolled in - the water is cold, and you can only get hot water in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. To heat water well, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a water heater for a shower must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively high. An indispensable condition in order to “sew together” these requirements is thermosiphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, but how to heat it is a second matter.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with a slope, in the middle there; then the hot side should be raised above the cold side by at least internal diameter tubes, otherwise the development of internal convection, boiling and rupture is possible even with a relatively small influx of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to use a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of “theromosyphon” is observed here in that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible from the cold one. In this case, complete sealing is needed, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

A water heating register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a question of the design of the stoves, and where the hot water goes afterwards, the stove, by and large, doesn’t care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for showers. In our latitudes it is not suitable for cooking, but a shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see figure) in spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown in the following. rice. Material – any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector must be metal; it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, while household mirrors reflect only the visible part. For IR clouds are much more transparent, while UV clouds carry a lot of energy even in small quantities.

Stationary scheme solar oven more complicated, but much more effective, is shown on the next page. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (can be scraps) of galvanized silicone. The reflector fragments are installed one by one, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; The already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this stove and the one described before it, a compact heat exchanger is needed; it is installed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not that complicated and do not require any adjustment. These are, strictly speaking, flat boxes or other containers blackened from the inside and glazed, in which a strong Greenhouse effect; A coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in Fig. Modern solar panels use truly space-age technologies, and some models in winter, on a cloudy day at -20 outside, release water into the system with a temperature of +70.

We don’t need such super-efficiency; we just need to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. Even the simplest design like those shown in the following can cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in Fig. Below (at the top position - with an installation diagram and a use case for heating a house) are drawings of homemade solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; the heat exchanger is soldered from copper tube. In the one below, it was used with a radiator from an old, unusable refrigerator; The dimensions of the box are adjusted to fit the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen at the dacha is gasified, no matter from the main line or a cylinder, then you can heat water for the shower for free at any time of the year in any weather, day or night. How? Due to waste heat (essentially its own heat loss) from the gas stove. To do this, a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube is used to circle the burners, as shown in Fig. This method was invented back in Stalin times, when people heard that somewhere up there, at the top, a wonder had appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil will boil and burst instantly! It is also necessary to maintain other sizes so as not to burn or overdry. flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else you need to remember is that the slope of the hot tube should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, there is no point in burning gas idle; you need to heat the water during cooking. As a rule, within an hour of preparing dinner, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, let’s mention one curiosity – the supposedly hydromassage shower. In Fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not simple - about 300 euros), but installations with 6 and even 10 diffusers are produced, loudly called nozzles in advertising brochures.

Such perfumes are just a tribute to fashion, if not the fabrications of marketers in a consumer society; simply - wiring. For real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone under conditions of hydro-weightlessness, which cannot happen without a bath with water.

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