DIY furniture facades made of chipboard. Making kitchen facades with your own hands

The kitchen set is considered one of the simple types hand-assembled furniture for inexperienced craftsmen.

Furnishings for a relaxation room and hall, as a rule, require a professional approach and the use of extraordinary materials.

Today we’ll talk about how to assemble furniture with your own hands.

The use of laminated chipboard as the main building material

Today, natural wood in its pure form is almost impossible to find in the environment. After all, sets made from natural wood are considered expensive and quite elite pieces of furniture. Therefore, the array is replaced by one available by price category material such as chipboard.

In most cases, the thickness of these plates reaches 16 mm. Sheets of greater thickness are also sold. The material is cut on machines.

You can do the work at home using an electric jigsaw, but unevenness and chips cannot be avoided. After all, it is almost impossible to saw off laminated chipboard evenly at home with a jigsaw.

Edges

One of the weak points of this material It is considered a cut, since it is through it that moisture passes inside most easily. In this regard, due to poor quality protection, swelling of the ends is possible. Therefore, it is preferable to cover the ends with edges, as in the photo of the furniture you made yourself below.

On modern market There are several types of edges:

Melamine. This is the most affordable edge of excellent quality. You can glue it yourself using a regular iron.
PVC is an excellent choice for edging. Its gluing is only possible on the machine.
ABS edge, similar to PVC edge, but created from a natural material.

Facades

The façade and doors of furnishings, including DIY garden furniture, are made from the best quality material.

The facade is considered a separate piece of furniture and, as a rule, is made to order.

In cases where facades have unusual shapes, they can be produced over a long period of time.

Types of facades

Since the main function of the facade is decorative, it is accordingly offered in a wide variety. The façade differs in material, as well as in appearance.

Laminated MDF is a pressed and fairly moisture-resistant material. Usually the surface is treated like a natural array.

However, even the most durable film will crack and peel off after a certain period of time. The main advantage of this material is its affordable cost and speed of production.

In addition to blind type facades, there are options curly look under the stained glass. The glass part is fixed to a special plate.

Wood facades will appeal to fans natural materials, however, their cost is quite high. In addition, environmental friendliness is also controversial.

Note!

Painted façade to look like enamel. It has a significant disadvantage - chips and deformations often appear on the surface.

It was once exploited because of its attractive, catchy shade, but with the advent of shiny plastic, everything changed radically.

Glass facades made from aluminum are suitable for kitchen spaces in high-tech style. They look fashionable, but are quite problematic to manufacture and install. Unusual fittings are used for fastening.

Boxes

There are many methods for making cabinet boxes, as well as DIY pallet furniture. One of the simplest is considered to be assembly around the perimeter using laminated chipboard.

If it is necessary to create an original facade, it must be screwed onto the frame main part from the inside.

In addition, the facade is often attached to eccentrics in the form of one of the walls of the box. In this case, the main task is not to assemble the necessary box, but to secure it correctly.

Note!

Doors

There are built-in wardrobes and free-standing ones. Internal filling It happens at the discretion of the owner; it is possible to carry out restoration of furniture with your own hands.

The main element of each cabinet is a sliding door leaf. It is not recommended to save on this part; it is important to purchase good quality fittings.

Basically, the closet is equipped with several doors, consisting of a frame into which decorative elements are inserted. Door leaves can be assembled from several materials separated by an aluminum profile.

The movement of the canvases is carried out along special guides, which are installed with your own hands, just as you create furniture from cardboard yourself.

Conclusion

If you approach the issue of creating and installing pieces of furniture with all responsibility, then the furnishings will be not only of high quality, but also affordable, distinguished by exclusivity and specialness.

DIY furniture photo

Note!

External panels of kitchen cabinets and tables, cabinet doors and wall shelves– everything that is the facade of the kitchen can be done independently. Of course, homemade furniture In some ways it is inferior to the factory one, but it always looks original and is cheaper. To make kitchen facades with your own hands, you will need skillful hands, carpentry skills and related tools.

The most common materials for making facades are:

At home, the easiest way is to make a facade from wood. Wooden facades come in two types - solid and paneled. Solid products are made from solid pine, oak, alder, cherry and other species. To make such a facade you do not need milling machine, a plane, circular saw or jigsaw is enough. Wooden surfaces They strongly absorb odors and require careful care, but they are not afraid of mechanical stress and last a long time.

More cheap option– facades made of wood panels covered with veneer. This material looks very attractive, is light in weight, and easy to process, making it possible to assemble a façade unusual shape. It should be taken into account that wood boards quickly absorb water, swell and deteriorate, and thin veneer cannot withstand mechanical damage.

Plastic facades have a chipboard base on which they are attached decorative panels made of durable plastic. It is impossible to make panels at home, so for assembly they purchase ready-made ones, cut them according to measurements and glue them to the frame. Such products are well tolerated high humidity, temperature changes, mechanical stress and look great. Caring for them is quite simple: wipe the surface with a damp cloth and a small amount of detergent.

Glass facades can be assembled yourself, but this process is quite labor-intensive and requires maximum care and skills in working with glass. Not everyone can cut and drill glass correctly; this requires steady hand, quality tools and a supply of material in case of damage. In addition, the facades are made of ordinary glass They look completely different from factory models, which use impact-resistant glass with a textured surface.

Production of solid facades

Solid wood facade

To create a kitchen facade from solid wood you will need:

edged pine boards with a section of 30x200 mm;
jigsaw;
jointer;
self-tapping screws;
drill;
screwdriver;
clamps;
accessories;
primer;
wood varnish;
glue;
plane;
sandpaper.

First, take measurements and draw up a drawing kitchen furniture. Based on the drawing, the number of front and side panels, drawers and shelves is calculated. The largest structures are manufactured first to minimize the amount of waste. To mark, the boards are laid out on a flat, wide table; transfer measurements from the drawing to the tree and mark cut lines with a pencil.

The easiest way to cut out parts is with a circular saw, firmly fixing the boards on the table. All cuts must be straight, otherwise it will not be possible to connect the parts tightly. When all the elements for the facade are ready, the wood is sanded with a special attachment and the ends are cleaned sandpaper. Then holes are drilled for fasteners and the workpieces are coated with an antiseptic primer.

Assembly begins: the ends of the blanks are covered with glue, the parts are connected, the corners are aligned, and then clamped with clamps and left to dry completely. Finally, hinges are attached to the doors, slats are screwed in with self-tapping screws for installing internal shelves, and fittings are hung. After this, the finished facade is treated with varnish or oil impregnations with wax.

Chipboard facade

If chipboard is used instead of solid wood, cutting is done in exactly the same way, but before assembly, the sections of the parts are covered with a special polyvinyl chloride tape. This process is called hemming; the film protects the ends from moisture penetration, fraying, makes appearance attractive and neat. In addition, the PVC edge prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde resins, which are used to impregnate chipboard and are harmful to health.

During the work you will need:

roll of edge film;
iron;
a sheet of thick white paper;
two clamps;
guide rail;
sharp knife.

The guide rail is attached to the work table using clamps. Instead of a slat, you can take any flat board, a piece of timber, the main thing is that it is convenient to support the chipboard workpiece. Take the facade part, lay it on the table and rest one edge against the guide so that the side cut protrudes 5-7 cm above the edge of the table. The edge is measured along the length of the cut and cut off. Apply the edge to the surface, leaving overhangs about 5-10 mm wide on both sides of the cut, and then lightly fix it at one end by touching the iron.

Next, cover the edge with a sheet of paper and use an iron to heat the surface with even, measured movements. If you iron the film without paper, the material may overheat and deformation may occur. The iron is pressed firmly against the cut so that the edge sticks over the entire surface. After this, the workpiece is turned over with the cut side down, pressed against the tabletop and held for several minutes. When the glue hardens, sharp knife Carefully trim the protruding edges of the film.

Excess glue is immediately wiped off with a clean rag, and the seams are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. The ends of the remaining workpieces are processed in the same way. Next, the elements are connected to each other using glue and self-tapping screws, shelves are installed, hinges and locks are attached, and fittings are screwed on.

Loops - frogs

The main elements of paneled facades are frames and panels. A frame made of boards with longitudinal grooves; panel is inner panel with figured cutters around the perimeter. When assembling, the panels are inserted into the grooves of the strapping and secured with glue and self-tapping screws. This design avoids surface deformation during temperature fluctuations.

To make paneled doors for a kitchen cabinet you will need:

Step 1. Calculation of workpiece parameters

Measure the cabinet opening vertically and horizontally and draw up a drawing. Subtract 3 mm from the height and width of the opening - these are the dimensions of the door frame. The width of the racks and horizontal crossbars depends on the width of the board. The parameters of the panel are calculated as follows: subtract the total width of the crossbars from the height of the frame and add 2 cm; The width of the panel corresponds to the length of the crossbars. For one door you should get 5 elements - 1 panel, 2 crossbars and 2 vertical posts.

Step 2. Cutting out the parts

Using a jigsaw pine board cut into racks and crossbars according to the drawing. On a milling machine, a groove 6 mm wide and 10 mm deep is cut into the side cut of each part. Then, 10x6 mm longitudinal spikes are formed at the ends of the crossbars. Make marks on a sheet of plywood with a pencil and cut out a panel. The edges of each element are treated with sandpaper, and the surface of the boards is sanded.

Step 3. Assembling the product

Into the grooves vertical racks insert the edges of the panel, put the bottom crossbar on the plywood and connect the crossbar tenons to the sidewalls. The top crossbar is attached next. If all the elements fit smoothly, without gaps or distortions, and quite tightly, then everything is done correctly. Now the door is disassembled, the grooves, tenons and edges of the panel are coated with glue, everything is put back together again and the joints are pressed tightly. Exposed glue is immediately wiped off with a damp, clean cloth. It is recommended to use clamps for fixation, then the product will not deform during the drying process.

Step 4: Finishing

When the glue dries, the joints are carefully sanded, and then the door is treated with an antiseptic compound. The next layer is paint or varnish, you can also use stain, special oil impregnations, self-adhesive film. Curly carving is often used as decoration for a frame, but not everyone can do it without the appropriate skills. Plywood can be completely replaced by a thin board, glass, shaped forged lattice, colored polycarbonate or plastic panel.

Hinges and fittings are attached after finishing work is completed. First, determine the location of the loops on the walls of the box; Mark the fastening points on the facade frame and drill holes. Screw the hinges to the frame, insert the door into the frame and fix the hinges on the cabinet wall. Check the movement of the hinges by closing and opening the door. When closed, there should be no gaps or irregularities around the perimeter of the façade. Other elements of the kitchen façade are performed in a similar manner. If you don’t have a milling machine, you should choose options with the least number of shelves and panels, since cutting grooves by hand is quite difficult.

Also read the article - how to assemble a kitchen with your own hands.

Video - DIY kitchen facades

The price of finished kitchen furniture consists of the price of materials, facades and furniture fittings. Almost half of the total cost of building a kitchen is the cost of its production. And if the kitchen is non-standard, has more than four walls or they are not located at an angle of 90 degrees, then you will have to pay extra for the development of a special project.

Obviously, it will be very profitable to make the kitchen yourself. The advantages of this solution are obvious: significant savings in the cost of workers’ services and the opportunity to choose the style and design of the kitchen project yourself and create an interior for a room of any size and shape according to your taste.

Chipboard is one of the most common and affordable materials; it is perfect for your future kitchen.

A kitchen made with your own hands from chipboard will not only allow you to take into account the wishes of all family members when planning it, but will also not put a big dent in your pocket.

Kitchen project

The start of any work is preceded by a project, which includes drawings of the future kitchen with the specified dimensions. In the photo below you can see one of the kitchen projects made from chipboard.

Furniture facades have their own standard sizes. They are presented in the table below (the cross at the intersection of the values means the standard size).

Step-by-step instruction

When assembling furniture with your own hands, you must adhere to of a certain order actions:

Order a tabletop, glass facades, a slab with cutting.
Purchase accessories.
Pick up glass facades and other parts.
Edge the ends of the parts.
Attach the guides to the sides of those cabinets that will have drawers.
Attach hinges to doors.
According to the drawings, assemble the boxes using confirmations.
Hang doors, assemble and insert drawers.
Arrange the lower cabinets, install the tabletop and attach it to the cabinets using 4*30 screws; the cut corner must be processed with a tabletop edge.
For the upper cabinets, a mounting rail is attached, calculating so that the bottom of the cabinet is at a distance of 140-150 cm from the floor.
Hanging cabinets are tied together with sectional ties.
Cut holes for the work surface and sink and install them.
Cut and install the wall profile to the tabletop using 3*25 screws.
Adjust the gaps in the doors.
Install the plinth.

Except general plan kitchens You will need diagrams with the sizes of each individual element. Below is an example of cutting out a kitchen cabinet.

Before starting work, pay attention to the points that should be taken into account:

4 cm of free space should be left behind the cabinets (for communications and as protection from crooked walls).
The front cabinets are attached in one line.
Buy supports only with a clip, and make the base removable.
It is better to install the guides for the drawers before assembling the cabinet.
It is recommended to install the mounting rail without breaks along its entire length.
The wall profile is sealed with silicone.

The facade is the face of the kitchen, and its quality completely determines how this room will look. This point should be fully realized when setting yourself the task of self-made. You need to understand that you will have to make kitchen facades with your own hands no worse than craftsmen in production. One can say even more - handmade must be high-class, otherwise there is no point in it. Is it just for fun - will it work or not? But this is a waste of money and time. This work must be approached theoretically prepared and savvy in practical skills in using the tool. The last point will have to be mastered on your own.

DIY kitchen facades photo

DIY kitchen facades: timeless wooden classics

In order to make really beautiful wooden facades for the kitchen with your own hands, electric jigsaw and skills in working with wood will not be enough - at a minimum you will need a high-quality and, most importantly, professional, high-precision manual milling machine and an equally high-quality and high-precision Circular Saw. This is, so to speak, minimum required, which you can’t do without - we shouldn’t forget about the so-called auxiliary “small things”, which in fact turn out to be very important. These are all kinds of attachments and discs for tools, wood adhesives, grinding tools, vices, clamps - if all this is not available, then start production furniture facades made from wood would be, to say the least, unreasonable.

How to make kitchen facades photo

If we talk about the technology itself for the production of wooden facades from wood, then the process of their production can be presented as follows.

View manufacturing principle wooden facade you can do it yourself in this video.

Basically, that's all. It should be understood that the technology described above for solving the question of how to make kitchen facades with your own hands may vary depending on the facade itself and the material used for its manufacture. For example, the inner insert in the frame can be made not from natural wood, and from plywood - it will be painted excellent option, greatly simplifying the work.

How to make kitchen facades: a simple option from furniture chipboard

Facades from furniture chipboard You can make it yourself in two ways - one is generally quite simple (it will only require you to install the facades), and the second is a little more complicated and involves full-fledged cutting and production of doors for furniture. Let's take a closer look at both of these options. Let's start with the simplest.

If we talk about pasting the ends Chipboard tape, That this work won't seem complicated. For this purpose, special hot melt adhesive is used. Alternatively, you can purchase edge tape with glue already applied to it - it comes in two types. It is milamine, which is essentially paper and also plastic. Naturally, it is better to give preference to the second option. Such tapes are quite simply glued on using an iron, and the excess tape is simply cut off with a very sharp knife.

Making kitchen facades with your own hands: glass and glass inserts

Glass, of course good material, which has high aesthetic characteristics, but it is very difficult to work with it on your own, and if we talk about a completely glass facade, then it can be said that it is impossible - here you need special equipment, which you cannot do without. That is why, when approaching the question of how to make glass facades for the kitchen with your own hands, you need to consider only two options.

In principle, that’s all; today there are no other technologies for manufacturing glass facades. We could also talk about the glass inserts themselves, but this is a separate topic, and we will cover it in another article.

These are not the only options for solving the question of how to make kitchen facades with your own hands? There are a lot of options, but to implement them you will need necessary equipment. I completely forgot - there is another relatively simple method that allows you to do it yourself kitchen facade. Oddly enough, but these are roller shutters that Lately are gaining popularity. The principle of manufacturing such facades is very simple - again, you measure inner size cabinet or cabinet and order roller blinds according to them. Next comes only their installation. Such facades are great for wall cabinets, but not for cabinets - this is their drawback.

Kitchens and wardrobes are almost the easiest types of furniture to assemble for novice craftsmen (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture themselves.

tree in pure form are no longer used in cabinet furniture; solid wood is considered an expensive luxury material.

Now wood is being replaced with cheaper material - laminated chipboard(abbreviated as LDSP). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm; you can also find on sale Chipboard thickness 10 and 22 mm. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill wardrobe doors, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes the structure is decorated with elements made from 22 mm laminated chipboard.

Almost all furniture parts are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

Cutting laminated chipboard produced on special machines along guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home using a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy irregularities on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off chipboard evenly with a jigsaw at home.

Edges

The most vulnerable place of laminated chipboard is when it is cut down. It is the easiest way for moisture to penetrate inside, so if the protection is poor, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed using edges; there are several types of them.

- Melamine edge is the cheapest, but of poor quality. You can stick it on at home using an iron.

- PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can only be glued to special machine, so they do it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to the invisible ends, and 2 mm to the external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

- ABS edge is similar to PVC, but made from environmentally friendly material.
- Mortise T-profile– inserted into a groove previously made with a milling cutter. Rarely used.

- Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued to liquid nails at home. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude a few millimeters, so dirt will get stuck under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

Facades

Kitchen fronts and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a wardrobe that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm chipboard with PVC edging 2 mm. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

By standard sizes you can easily navigate: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm façade is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high ones wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since facades are mainly decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

- Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture-resistant and dense compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated to look like wood. But no matter how strong the film is, over time it can come off at the edges and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

MDF facades

- In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. The glass is attached to the cover on the reverse side.
- Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

- Postforming – even higher quality and durable products. Thin plastic at the edges is wrapped 90° or 180°, thereby eliminating unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the base. Typically, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

- Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard/MDF) lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edges or aluminum profiles. Super-glossy acrylic plastic has been especially popular lately.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

- Wood and veneer facades - suitable for amateurs natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there is a long debate about environmental friendliness: there is an opinion that there is so much varnish and impregnation that there is only one name left for the tree.

- Painted facades to resemble enamel. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has low chemical resistance. They used to be popular due to their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

Aluminum facades with glass are suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. Non-standard fittings are used for their fastening.

Back walls and bottoms of drawers

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDF. The smooth side of the sheet should face the inside of the cabinet/drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected to match the chipboard.

Some people prefer to mount HDF on furniture stapler, but you can’t do that. Over time, the brackets will become loose and the structure may warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the drawers - a stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture LDVP

Sometimes it is inserted into a groove prepared with a milling cutter, but all dimensions must match down to the millimeter.

Most often, HDF is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you must drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a “stiffener” in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with laminated chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Tabletops

Table top – horizontal working surface, on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as in cheap dining rooms, the tabletop is made of the same laminated chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is necessary to frame it with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for the kitchen. They are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, which is covered on top with durable plastic using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops have green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. Correct kitchen countertop must have a drip tray that will prevent the flowing liquid from getting onto the facades and drawers.

Weakness Such countertops are cut edges. They are usually covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable within the first year of use. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles ( end strip), and to protect against moisture, pre-coat the cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profiles: corner and connecting strips, which are needed for joining several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for table top

One more element - decorative corner, which closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, it is more practical due to the absence of seams and is inexpensive compared to glass splashbacks.

The tabletop is attached to the cabinets from below using short self-tapping screws to horizontal spacers so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone are higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and demanding special care due to high porosity. But artificial stone does not have such disadvantages; it can be given any size and shape. Main disadvantage stone countertops – high price, for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a countertop made of tiles or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on regular plywood or chipboard. The base must first be covered with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: lids, tabletops, walls, facades, shelves. Each part can be either nested or invoice. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Let's look at examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be suspended.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operating stress in the floor-standing cabinet is directed downwards from the lid and in the first option is naturally transmitted through the parts to the cabinet legs.

In the second, incorrect option, the load is transmitted through the confirmat (furniture screw), and because of this it will be torn out of the part at a fracture.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we use the same fastening scheme here as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under the load of being pulled out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmations experience stress on the fracture (see diagram “correctly”).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware ( hardware), which are used to connect parts. Most often, connections are made at right angles.

- Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for preliminary fixation and increasing the shear load, then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

- Furniture corners are a popular, but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the disadvantages: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Furniture corner

Main disadvantage This type of fastening means that screwed-in caps remain visible. To hide them, use plastic plugs matching the color of the chipboard.

Furniture fittings

- Handles - everything is clear here. They are usually attached with screws.
- Legs – comfortable in rooms where work is done frequently wet cleaning floors, for example in the kitchen. Any wood, especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate from daily contact with water. In addition, the legs can be used to level furniture on uneven surfaces.
- A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. It is glued to the top and bottom of the cabinet door or end to soften the impact.

- Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of door opening. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180°, and in closed position– 90°.
  The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and seating depth. For glass doors Separate hinges are sold; glass can be clamped into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

From inexpensive manufacturers For fittings, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from the serious ones in the world – the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and slides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest of them is to assemble a perimeter from laminated chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed onto the main frame from the inside (like the tabletop). The façade can also be secured to eccentrics as the fourth wall of the drawer.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to secure it correctly.

Drawer guides are divided into roller or ball guides.

- Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the drawer. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely; a heavy drawer in the more than half-open position may simply fall.
- Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides,” can exactly double the length. They have many balls inside, like bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of drawers with installed guides. All that remains is to install the façade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and back walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). The internal content can be anything: regular shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

The main element of the wardrobe is sliding doors. You can’t save on them; you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic products in specialized stores. sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

A sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame into which they insert decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan sheets, bamboo, artificial leather (based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several such materials, which are separated aluminum profile. It is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m in width.

Standard profiles are designed for a sheet thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, put on the edge of the mirror silicone seal. So that in case of impact broken glass no one was hurt, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the back side.

The doors move along guides; they are installed at the top and bottom. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the proper approach, homemade furniture turns out to be cheaper and of better quality than that displayed in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the characteristics of the room.