Hello, we installed the interior doors ourselves. Now one of the doors touches the frame when closing and is difficult to close, can this be fixed?
Obviously you did not screw the box to the opening, but used foam. The fact is that foam during changes atmospheric pressure it swells, (before the rain) the frame becomes deformed and the door stops closing. Drill holes through the box into the wall and install long screws.
Of course, everything can be fixed. This happened either because the door frame was swollen ( more precisely the material swollen wood), or you foamed too much. In the second case, you need to remove the mounting foam, install the door normally and foam again. While the foam hardens, install spacers. If the material of the door and frame has swollen due to increased humidity, then it is more difficult. This is the quality of the products.
As they say, the miser pays twice. In your case, you should call professional door installers, and perhaps they will still be able to rectify the situation.
It looks like the door is simply "swollen". This happens in summer (the door was installed in winter).
If this is the case, then the best option for fitting the door is an electric router. From the hinge side and from the bottom of the door.
To work you will need a chisel, a hammer and a plane. It is necessary to determine the place where the door touches the frame. As a rule, a slight protrusion of half a millimeter interferes, or it can be only a millimeter thick. It is necessary to trim the door from the end in this place. It will be both unnoticeable and low-cost. First, try walking with a plane, and then, if the plane is inconvenient, then use a chisel and a hammer.
And finally, the place where the door is stitched, so to speak, can be painted in the color of the end of the door, which will make this place less noticeable.
The problem of door misalignment is not so rare, arising due to many reasons during its operation. The doors begin to close poorly or not close at all, they hit the frame, or even jam completely.
The interior door does not close due to an incorrect gap between the leaf and the door frame
Let's look at the most common cases of door misalignment and how to fix them. The main reasons for unsatisfactory door performance may be the following:
- Insufficient fastening of hinges or their bending.
- The appearance of places where door frames are deformed.
- Curvature of the door leaf itself.
Insufficient fastening of hinges or their bending
The first problem occurs due to natural wear and tear of the hinges and, as a result, sagging of the door leaf. Of course, in this case, the canvas, and specifically the doors, will fit poorly into the frame, that is, close with force. The problem can be solved quite simply: by replacing the hinges completely or by inserting washers of a certain size. As a last resort, you can make a ring of wire, which will temporarily eliminate the worn-out part of the loops.
If your door constantly hits the threshold or is difficult to close, the hinges may need to be replaced, adjusted, or re-hanged.
If you decide to purchase new hinges, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the plates so as not to go deeper under them seat, as well as the location of places in the plate for . The best option It will happen if you take an old loop that will serve as a sample and visit the store with it. But it happens that such loops are not available for sale. Then you will have to use a chisel to deepen the seat under the plates, and hammer wooden pegs, pre-lubricated with PVA glue, into the places where the screws were screwed in.
Hinge installation
And it happens that the hinges begin to deform due to the increase in the weight of the doors if they are decorated with some material, for example, veneer. Then you will have to replace the loops with more powerful ones or add a third loop to the two. If the screws are loose, this can be fixed quite simply: unscrew the screws, pour glue into the hole and screw the screws back. The trick is that after about a day the fastenings need to be tightened at least another half turn.
Door frame deformation phenomenon
While using the door, the frame may also sag and prevent the door from closing fully. The reasons why the door frame may sag may be the following: errors during its installation, exposure to moisture, the door being too heavy and the influence of time. However, in order to accurately establish the cause of the deformation of the box, it is necessary to remove the trim and conduct an examination of the condition of the box, the integrity of the mounting foam, and the presence of rigidity in the location of the box in the opening.
To assess the condition of the door frame, you need to remove the trim
Let's start from the end. If the box in the opening becomes loose, you need to unscrew the bolts securing it in the opening, again pour glue into the seats of the bolts and screw them (the bolts) into place. If the hinges hold the box well, but it still dangles, you will have to remove the mounting foam, level the box again using wooden pegs and seal the gaps again polyurethane foam. This entire process is done either separate area doorway, or completely throughout the entire opening.
Curvature of the door leaf itself
Wooden door leaves are very sensitive to moisture and moisture and temperature. As a result, the wood fibers swell and the geometry of the door changes, that is, the dimensions of the leaf increase. The door may not fit well into the frame because it is swollen when open or may not open because it was damaged when closed.
Swelling of the door leaf
What do we have to do? First of all, restore normal indoor climate: eliminate by ventilation high humidity, restore normal temperature. In theory, the doors should take their previous appearance and work well.
It happens that a door consisting of panels increases in size one or two panels. In this case, it is necessary to hire competent carpenters or take the door leaf to a carpentry workshop.
All of the above applies to doors made of wood. Although some points can be applied to doors .
Swelling of doors in summer, when humidity increases significantly, is a natural process. And taking into account this, when installing in winter, when due to the operation of heating radiators, the air is much drier, a gap of about 4 mm is left between the door and the frame around the entire perimeter.
In your case, the gap turned out to be too small; there are several options for fixing it, depending on what you have with the door or frame and what experience you have in working with wood.
1. We need to see if the box has been opened? This happens quite often. To do this, you need to measure its width by different heights and especially in the place where grazing occurs.
If the box has moved, then it is somewhat simpler.
We determine using an even metal corner or the level where the bulge is located. This can be seen on the door, but you may not be able to see from which side this is happening, from the side of the hinges or the handle.
Best result measurements will, of course, be given by a metal level, but it is unlikely that measuring device If you have one lying around the house, instead of it, pick up some kind of flat block or strip.
The bulging area will be felt immediately. There will be a bump where your block or level will roll.
Carefully remove the trim from the side of the box where the bulging occurred, from the outside and inside.
Then we take a hacksaw, preferably with not too coarse teeth, and parallel to the box for the entire height, or only in the place where it bulges, we cut through the foam. On both sides of the doorway. It is better to make this cut directly along the box. Don't forget about the fastening dowels, you need to go around them, but also give a gap between the foam and the box. After this, tighten the fasteners door frame with a screwdriver, and so tighten for several days until the tree takes the desired bend and selects a new gap above the foam. In other words, we will gradually press the box against the opening. The result will begin to appear immediately.
2.1. Another case is if the frame is flat, but the door is swollen. Is there a question here? What kind of door do you have? If it is a simple wooden panel door covered with tinting and varnish, then the problem is solved somewhat easier.
The simplest option. Remove the lock and sand the end of the door with sandpaper on a block. Be sure to attach the sandpaper to a block or board in order to sand an even layer. Check the door periodically for signs of jamming. As soon as it stops touching, stop sanding, the door will no longer swell, and you don’t need the extra gap.
Now we are trying to install a lock. It may already be protruding somewhat, because we have removed some kind of layer. Check if the lock does not touch the box, then it can be placed freely; if it does touch, then you need to take a chisel and carefully deepen its seat. For handles, as a rule, the installation gaps are sufficient, but you can also correct these holes in the door.
Now we select a tinting composition and cover the treated end of the door with it, then we go over it with varnish.
2.2If your doors are expensive and such a tint or stain cannot be found, although you can choose one. Sand the door from the hinge side. To do this, we remove it, and then we also deepen the places for the hinges, tint and varnish.
In any case, this option gives a gap and, most importantly, the results of working with the door are practically invisible. Even if you make any mistakes, they will not damage the door, because this side of the door sits on hinges and is almost invisible.
Good luck and let me know how it goes for you.
Good afternoon everyone. The following problem has arisen. Installed interior doors. Everything was installed smoothly, the doors opened and closed without problems. A week passed and the doors began to catch on the frame.
- One door has mortise hinges. She began to cling to the box from the latch side. I cut the hinges deeper and the defect disappeared, but after 4 days it appeared again.
- Two doors have overhead hinges. They closed/opened normally. Now they hook the box both from the latch side and from the bottom.
All doors are mounted on 2 hinges at the top and bottom. With indentations of 20 cm from the edges.
As I understand it, the door sagged. How to deal with this? Maybe I didn't take something into account when installing the doors?
Maybe it's sagging. Maybe the doors are swollen, if the array. Or maybe the foam is gradually pressing down.
@ serg32, apparently during installation they made a minimum gap - the only solution is to reinstall or wait for the heating season - then they will close themselves -= by the new year
What gaps were initially set? And what is “below”? Photos - to the studio!
My friend had this problem. “Spread apart” with a jack. A couple of bars, 50-70 cm each, were placed.
The gaps between the frame and the door leaf on all sides are 3mm. From below this means that the bottom of the door leaf does not touch the bottom of the door frame.
otyan, how did they push it apart with a jack?
I’m redoing just such crooked work now - it was done by some finisher, who then disappeared, leaving unfinished and not closing doors. And it’s not a gaster, but a local, Russian one, according to the client. I don’t really like redoing crooked work, especially since It will no longer be possible to do it completely normally, since the doors are already partially with fittings embedded in haphazard ways, a crooked insert can no longer be corrected, you can only correct it so that everything more or less looks and functions. Generalist craftsmen can rarely do everything they undertake to do, make it at least a four, keep that in mind.
vadim d wrote:
When the door sag, the upper part of the leaf catches on the frame.
Not high-quality installation. Remove the casing, cut out the foam, fasten the box through (under the plug), seal it and put the casing back. This is the simplest and works 146%.
Top of the long side. TS wrote about the bottom of the canvas, you can understand what catches the threshold. That's why I asked for a photo.
Treat as written above - either re-install, or anchor the box from the hinge side, usually at the top hinge and a wedge under the bottom.
OWN wrote:
Maybe your hinges, due to the weight of the sash, cannot cope. Try adding another loop (third). You can put 3-4 hinges on the door, the main thing is that they cope.
It is difficult to achieve alignment of more than 2 loops. The geometry of the canvas-box changes - the moisture content shrinks. As a result, the middle loops are ftopk.
Same problem. Installed doors cling to the box. If there were " regular doors“, I would solve everything at once. But the doors and frame are finished with veneer, which gets scratched when you try to close the door. Hence the question. Any advice on the best way to “spread the frame and maintain the trim to ensure the doors close? The installers themselves “merged”, don’t ask why, because... reasoning on this topic does not solve the main issue. I can find them, it’s not difficult, but convincing me to finish the job with a “soldering iron” or a court is not my style. Attaching photo, General theory: false walls made of profiles finished with plasterboard. Frame opening: profile, inside the profile with a gap of 10 mm (or 12 mm) plywood around the entire perimeter of the opening, excluding the floor. The box is finished with veneer, the gap from the plywood is approximately 20 mm. The gap between the plywood and the box is foamed. The door does not close virtually the entire height. Above, in the lock area, at the bottom of the door. It does not scratch the floor, the gap is “normal”. I’ll do the work myself, I just don’t have any ideas on what to do? Pull out the foam and press the box against the plywood or something else with self-tapping screws. There are 4 such doors. Thank you.
It is difficult to imagine any home, no matter how many rooms it has, without interior doors. First of all, this enclosing structure is necessary for bathrooms and toilet rooms. Therefore, it is important that interior doors work properly for a long time. For this purpose, at the final stage of door installation, it is adjusted.
Adjusting the interior door
In addition, it is often necessary to adjust old doors. It is this process that we will try to understand in our article. But let's start with general description structural elements of an interior door.
Do-it-yourself adjustment of interior doors
Often homeowners, who are not naturally deprived of the ability to do manual labor, decide to self-installation and adjusting the doors of rooms in your home. In principle, such work can be done with your own hands. But first, it is important for beginners to know what an interior door is made of.
Interior door design
The main structural element of any door is the door leaf; it is what people first pay attention to when purchasing a door. Another name for the canvas is sash.
Installation of the door and its operation is impossible without the frame, which is installed in the doorway, and the leaf itself is attached to it. The frame is an original structural element of each specific door, matching it in color scheme. This means that installing a new sash in an old frame is not possible.
Often the box comes complete with the finished canvas. It consists of three or four elements. If the door is planned without a threshold, then the frame is U-shaped, it includes 2 long vertical beams (hinged and rebated) and one short horizontal one (lintel). If necessary, the box design includes a threshold, in which case it will look like closed loop.
Decorative function performs the platband. It is this that closes the seam where the door frame is installed in the wall opening.
If the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, then an additional strip is needed. it's the same decorative element, the color of which matches the canvas.
An important detail doors are fittings that include two hinges on which the leaf is attached to the frame, a latch and a set of handles. For doors installed, for example, in a bathroom or toilet, a locking device is also provided that allows you to close the door from the inside.
These are the main ones structural elements interior doors.
So, the process of installing the interior door is coming to an end. The box is installed in the opening, and the sash is suspended from it. At this stage, before foaming the gap between the opening in the wall and the frame beams, it is necessary to adjust the door. First, an initial inspection is carried out to check the opening and closing of the door, the uniformity of the distance between the leaf and the frame. There may be several reasons why the gap size is not the same.
- Perhaps the lintel was not evenly connected to the hinged or false beam. Then you will need to remove the box and correct the junction of the beams.
- It happens that the purchased door has uneven geometry. The way out of this situation is to adjust the frame to the features of the door. Another solution is to fix the door itself using a plane, file or sandpaper With further painting corrected place.
Checking the verticality of the box
The gap may be so uneven that the door will touch the jamb at the top or bottom.
If no violations are found during the inspection, then a more thorough inspection begins, during which several major malfunctions may be discovered. Let's consider each of them, the reasons and ways to eliminate them separately.
This is the most common problem. There are several reasons that prevent the interior door from closing normally.
This mainly occurs due to the skew of the door frame, which is associated with its incorrect installation, during which the beams were insufficiently fastened together or were not correct proportions when connecting horizontal and vertical beams.
You can detect if the box is skewed using a level or plumb line. If the problem is really in the box, then it will need to be removed. It is necessary to check whether the cut of the joints of the beams is even, reconnect them to each other, strictly observing the angle of 90 degrees. Secure all joints with at least two screws. As a result, you should get an even letter P with firmly connected corners.
Another reason are wrong installed hinges. They may either be insufficiently recessed in comparison with the surface of the box or canvas.
Another reason is incorrectly installed hinges
In some cases, you can deepen the loop by tightening the screws in it, but this does not always work. If this does not help, you will have to unscrew the hinges and deepen the attachment point using a chisel or grinding.
Deepening hinge grooves by grinding
The hinges can also be installed incorrectly in the horizontal plane: they are deeply removed from the front part of the canvas. Then they will need to be removed and moved closer to the facade of the sash.
This means that the door closes without problems, but it is not easy to open. There are two main reasons for this problem.
Firstly, the fasteners of the box bars are not tightened enough. Everything is simple here: you need to tighten the screws that secure the false beam in the opening.
Secondly, excessively deep grooves may be prepared for the hinges. To cope with this problem, you need to remove the door, remove the hinges and place cardboard under their doors.
This happens when the door frame is not installed strictly vertically. If its top is tilted in the direction where the door swings open, then the door opens. When the top of the box is folded in the opposite direction, the door closes. This can be corrected by leveling the box, especially the loop beam. You can use a plumb line as a guide, but a long level is preferable. It is also possible to use a short level; to do this, it is worth linking it, for example, to a rule. Once the box is aligned, secure it to the opening.
In addition to problems with the box, hinges or door leaf, inaccuracies in the installation of locking mechanisms may be identified.
Interior door handles
A common problem encountered during installation door lock, is that it is not deepened enough. As a result, the side bar of the lock or door knob hurt doorjamb. The way out of this situation is to deepen the hole for the latch or lock mechanism.
Sometimes the lock or latch screws are not screwed in enough, so the mechanism dangles in the groove. The solution is simple - tighten the fasteners.
Despite the fact that adjustment is the final stage of door installation, it is often necessary to carry out it for older doors.
One of the main and most common problems of new interior door designs is the creaking of hinges. Sometimes this is observed at new doors. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to lubricate the hinges with machine oil. To do this, place a wedge under the door and lift the door to partially remove it from its hinges. Oil is dripped into the gap that appears in the loop using a pipette, which can be replaced with a piece of graphite stylus a simple pencil.
Another common problem old doors are skewed. There are several reasons for this.
For wooden doors, misalignment may be associated with swelling of the door leaf. In this case, it is necessary to determine the location of the bulge. To do this, apply paper to the suspected distorted area and close the door. The place where the carbon mark will remain is the bulging section of the canvas. It is this that needs to be cut off and the door itself painted over, as was described in the case of new door with broken geometry.
For heavy doors, for example, made from solid wood, the distortion may be associated with deformation of the hinges. This is usually caused by the stitches being selected incorrectly.
Note! Heavy wooden doors should be installed not on two, but on three hinges.
There are several ways to correct skewed loops:
- replace with new, more durable ones;
- install additional hinges;
- unscrew the screws from the hinges and replace them with longer ones;
- strengthen the sockets for the screws with a cork coated with glue;
- install washers in the hinges, which will raise the door a couple of millimeters in the center of the hinge.
A skewed door leaf can also be caused by a change in the geometry of the opening in the wall. Without replacing the door elements, this defect can be eliminated as follows:
- sharpen the door where it is skewed;
- remove and rearrange the door frame, adjusting the joints of the beams while maintaining an angle of 90 degrees.
In the latter case, you need to focus on building level, and secure the box firmly to the doorway. To do this, two holes are made through the box in the wall on the side of each beam. The depth of the holes in the wall must be at least 50 mm. Pins made of metal or wood are driven into the holes. Wooden fasteners are pre-lubricated with glue.