Flexible tiles today are one of the most popular materials used as roofing for roofs. There are several reasons why it has become so widespread in our market.
Firstly, in terms of all possible colors and shapes, it occupies a leading position among all types of coating. Today every brand bitumen shingles represented by at least 40-50 species various options, so even the most picky buyer will always be able to find the option he likes. Secondly, in terms of convenience and speed of installation, this is also the most successful, from a technological point of view, coating option, which does not require the use of special equipment and tools. Due to its low weight, the work of lifting and delivering directly to the work site is simplified. Thirdly, having the properties of elasticity and flexibility, this type coatings can be used on any type and shape of roof, even those with radial curvature. The last advantage characteristic only of this type of coating is that with the advent of bituminous shingles, it became possible to implement projects for some forms of roofing that were previously impossible to carry out technologically. It should be noted that such material is affordable.
Before laying flexible tiles, it is necessary to carry out a number of activities that are related to the arrangement of " roofing pie" In this article, I will consider all the stages of work associated with laying bitumen shingles, which must be completed after the installation of the rafter system is completed.
Installation of waterproofing film
The first stage of work involves laying a waterproofing (windproof) film. IN in this case You can use a diffusion film-membrane, since the roofing of flexible tiles does not contain elements susceptible to corrosion. In this regard, there is no need to apply additional measures to eliminate this type of impact on the material. This class of insulation is quite widely represented on the market, but the most optimal and often used in construction is the waterproof film of the Czech company Juta, called Jutafoll 110-D. When purchasing, pay attention specifically to the “D” marking, since this letter means that the film is waterproofing and not, for example, intended for use in the range negative temperatures, unlike other markings that are intended for indoor use only. The number 110 is not so important, since it indicates the density of the film. If this parameter is higher, then technical specifications this will only reflect on the positive side.
Installation of the membrane is quite simple. The first roll of film is rolled out along the eaves overhang across the rafters and nailed to them with pre-prepared slats. It is convenient to shoot the film with a staple gun before doing this. The slats will act as a counter-lattice and act as a ventilation gap between waterproofing film and the main sheathing. These measures are taken to organize the circulation of air flow, thereby preventing the collection of moisture in hard to reach places. Also, given the fact that the air has good thermal insulation properties, these measures are designed to solve the problem of heating in summer and freezing of the roof in winter (the formation of ice and icicles is excluded). The height of the slats is chosen within the range of 25-50 mm, the width should be strictly equal to the width of the rafter leg. They are cut into lengths of 150 cm, as is the width of the film.
The lath does not overlap the film to a distance (an overlap of at least 12 cm is made at any membrane joints). In all cases, galvanized rough nails are used for installation, the length of which is selected depending on the thickness of the counter-lattice (the length must be at least +50mm of its thickness). On all roof ridges, the film is not extended 5-10 cm to its end due to the fact that the movement of air under the roofing starts from the eaves and ends at the ridge, so such a gap is made for it to escape outside. The film can be glued together with double-sided adhesive tape, but this is not a necessary condition.
Lathing and final surface preparation
Next, the final sheathing is placed on top of the counter-lattice. Any board (both edged and unedged) is suitable as a material, the thickness of which is selected in the range of 25-30 mm. The material must be dry before installation (with relative humidity no more than 20%) and must be treated with a fire-bioprotective preparation. Also, when using edged boards It is necessary to completely remove the tree bark, since in the future this can lead to woodworms getting in between the bark and the wood. The distance between adjacent boards should be no more than 30-35 cm (depending on the thickness of the board used). The length of the nail is chosen such that, when nailed, it pierces both the sheathing and the counter-lattice and fits tightly into the rafter by at least 2-3 cm.
The peculiarity of flexible tiles as a covering is that the roof plane must be smooth and even before laying it. Therefore, if an edged board is used as a flooring (this option is allowed by the manufacturer), then differences between adjacent boards are not allowed to exceed 2 mm. This must be carefully monitored to avoid fractures and kinks of the tiles during installation.
It is better to start installing OSB boards on the roof from the hip.
I recommend using moisture-resistant OSB-3 board as flooring. The thickness is usually chosen 10-11mm. Unlike a board, when used, it produces an ideal plane; also, having moisture-resistant properties, it does not warp or warp throughout its entire service life. When laying, it is necessary to make 3-5 mm gaps between each sheet of slabs to prevent them from swelling at the joints, since linear dimensions material will change with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. To nail the slabs, galvanized nails 3x30 with a large head are used. The nailing pitch between nails is 25-30 cm.
Then they proceed directly to laying bitumen shingles. First, lining carpets based on fiberglass are rolled out. They are optional waterproofing material between OSB-3 board and bitumen shingles. If the roof slope is less than 18 degrees, then underlay carpets must be laid over the entire roof plane. But even at large angles of inclination, carpets are laid in mandatory in the following places:
- On the eaves. This is one of the most important places especially in winter period, since when the snow melts, ice and icicles form in these places, and in this case the load in the parts of the roof under consideration increases.
- On the gables. Such places are most susceptible to moisture ingress during slanting rains.
- On skates and ribs.
- In valleys (joints of roof planes). Here it is necessary to use carpets with color tinting of the main roof covering.
- In places of various connections and abutments of walls, chimneys and others.
In valleys, the carpet is laid with an overlap of 0.5 meters.
The distances from the edge of the cornices should be about 1-2 cm, since in hot weather it is possible to heat and straighten the underlay carpets. They need to be nailed only in the upper parts at a distance of 20-25 cm, and all joints should be made with an overlap of about 10 cm. Then the cornice and pediment strips are installed from of stainless steel. To do this, you need to use the same 3x30 galvanized nails with a large head. The planks are nailed in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints there is a mandatory overlap of 15 cm, secured with two nails.
After this, they proceed to laying the first row of tiles. According to the standards, it has rectangular shape(without petals). All places where metal strips come into contact with bitumen shingles must first be lubricated. bitumen mastic. The mastic has a fairly thick consistency when room temperatures, therefore, to simplify working with it, it is necessary to preheat the container with the product. It is applied to the surface of the tiles using a narrow construction spatula. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1-2 mm, since it does not contain an adhesive base, and with thick seams, the lubricated surfaces can simply separate. One shingle is nailed with four nails at the top. If the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, then two additional nails must be used.
The second and subsequent rows of tiles are nailed with an offset of half a period (1/3 or 2/3 depending on the chosen shape of the tile itself). Every 3-4 rows must be checked for horizontalness, or pre-marked for the upcoming row (a thread with colored talcum powder is ideal for this purpose), but this is quite painstaking work and takes a lot of time. When adjusting, bitumen shingles have to be cut. To do this, it is better to use a short knife with a blade pointed at the end. It is necessary to cut with reverse side tiles, laying a piece of flat board or plywood to prevent accidental damage to previously laid tiles. A knife is drawn along the mark about 3-4 times, then the shingles are bent along the cut line, and the tiles are easily divided into two parts.
To work on roofs with a slope of more than 30 degrees, a number of additional measures should be taken to increase the convenience of work. The first thing you need to use when working is a safety cable or rope. The second is the use of temporary slats, which are nailed to the slope, bending the petals of the already laid tiles. Otherwise, during installation you will have to constantly keep the rope taut, since you will not be able to stand on such slopes on your own. And thirdly - the use of special clothing (construction overalls) for competent and functional distribution the necessary tool through pockets and loops for quick access.
In areas of ribs and ridges, the installation of tiles is carried out with an overlap (the sheet run is bent 10-15 cm to another plane of the roof and nailed). Then the tiles are cut into individual petals and mounted on top along the line of the ridge (rib), and each subsequent petal is nailed in such a way that the places of the nail heads are covered from the previous tile element.
There are several basic methods for installing shingles in valley areas. The first is that the tile elements are laid end-to-end on both roof planes. The second involves laying tiles within 10 cm of the center line. The latter method is preferable both aesthetically and practical point vision, since a kind of hollow is formed between the two roof slopes, which simplifies the drainage of rainwater, and thereby prevents the formation of local areas in which moisture can collect in the future. In valleys, the use of nails closer than 30 cm from its center is not allowed; for this, the contact points of the underlayment and tiles are coated with mastic to a width of 10-15 cm. The upper parts of the petals of each row are carefully cut at an angle of 60 degrees.
The final stage
At the junctions of walls and chimneys, the tiles are placed on a vertical plane to a height of 20-30 cm, having previously coated the joints with bitumen mastic. Then, in the place where the tile ends, an abutment strip is installed on top of it, and all the resulting gaps are thermally resistant silicone sealant. It is advisable to install metal boxes around chimneys and pipes, using basalt-based insulation as an insulator. They significantly improve the hydrophobic properties at the joints, preventing all kinds of leaks in complex areas of the roof.
Aerators are necessary for air circulation in the inter-roof space.
At a distance of a maximum of 50-60 cm from the roof ridge, it is necessary to install aerators, which serve to remove air from the inter-roof space and, thereby, allow for proper air circulation. The number of aerators is selected from next calculation: one aerator for every 25 square meters roofs. Currently, ridge aerators have also become widely used, which are a structure with an air gap installed directly in the area of the entire length of the ridge. All joints and overlaps around the aerators must be treated with mastic.
It is worth noting that everything installation work the tiles must be carried out at a temperature environment at least 15 degrees, at lower temperatures should be used construction hairdryer, heating the tiles in places of kinks. On too sunny and hot days, you need to postpone the installation of the roof, not only for safety own health, but also due to the fact that the tiles begin to melt easily, and when moving across the coating, marks and dents remain, which in the future do not look aesthetically pleasing.
The company’s specialists for the production of bitumen roofing coatings give their recommendations for laying flexible tiles, which are not often found in other sources.
High-quality bitumen shingles can easily last 100 years or more if they are installed correctly.
When laying flexible tiles, more attention is paid primarily to the junctions.
Correct roofing pie
Flexible tiles are laid only on a solid, level base. It is created mainly from OSB boards fixed to the rafters. Under the slabs there is usually an insulation pie, usually made of mineral wool, ventilated according to the “ventilated facade” principle, i.e. done right. This is a fundamental point, because getting the insulation wet due to the accumulation of steam in it (installation errors) is unacceptable, this will lead to wetting of the rafters and swelling of the wood with warping roofing.
Thermal clearances
The second thing you need to pay attention to is that OSB boards must be laid with thermal gaps between each other of 3-5 mm. Otherwise, due to thermal changes in size and movement in the rafters, destruction, warping, swelling of the base with rupture of the bitumen coating is possible.
Underlay carpet
Underlay carpet - self-adhesive bitumen materials that are used for better waterproofing places where moisture, snow, and ice accumulate - cornices (roof edges) and valleys.
Fused bitumen materials are not used here.
In these places, under the tile, a special bitumen tape of sufficient width is pre-glued to the base. Its absence often leads to leaks and wetting of the base along the eaves and valleys.
The underlay carpet along the cornice must cover the hanging cornice, the wall itself and the space inside the house at least 60 cm wide.
Galvanized nails
The bituminous shingles will come with installation instructions. Types of materials, sizes, and indentations will be indicated. These instructions must be followed exactly.
Typically, the flexible coating is additionally fixed at the edges with special galvanized nails.
Typical errors are as follows:
- Non-galvanized nails are used. As a result, strips of tiles are blown off by the wind.
- The distance between nails increases.
Fixation on gable overhangs
The edge of the gable cornice is usually decorated with a strip, which is a water stop. It is important that in this place water does not flow under the edges of the flexible tiles. For this:
This complex should prevent water from leaking under the coating, including during ice and slanting rain.
Underlay carpet at junctions
At the junctions with the vertical walls, so that the tiles are held securely and there are no water leaks, a valley carpet is laid under it, which is glued to bitumen mastic, and fixed at the edges with a metal strip.
It is important to decorate the junctions with vertical surfaces with bevels (fillets).
A carpet is laid on them. At the same time, it starts.
Soft tiles can be laid on any type of roof, but they are especially suitable for use on roofs of complex configurations that have joints and transitions. Carry out installation soft tiles doing it yourself is not a difficult task, but for quality work you need to know some features. We tried to talk about this in detail in this article.
What are soft tiles?
This elastic material is made using a special technology from fiberglass or polyester impregnated with bitumen. Externally, soft tiles are small plates of various shapes (rectangular or pentagonal, hexagonal), made in the form of rhombuses or ovals, honeycomb etc.The use of special additives from styrene-butadiene styrene and polypropylene can significantly increase strength, enhance frost resistance and reduce the thermal conductivity of tiles. Colored stone chips applied to it front side, serves not only decorative decoration, but also additional protection from mechanical damage and burnout.
Installation of a roof made of bitumen tiles
Installation procedure for soft tiles
1. This type of roofing is mounted only on continuous flooring (sheathing). Its thickness depends on the pitch of the rafters: the greater the distance between the rafter legs, the thicker the material from which the flooring is made should be. You can use moisture-resistant plywood, tongue-and-groove boards, particle boards, etc.2. For the roofing to look aesthetically pleasing, it needs to be laid perfectly: the slightest unevenness will make the tiles look sloppy.
Installation wooden flooring under flexible tiles
Important! Since when temperatures change wood sheets or the boards can change in size, it is imperative to leave deformation gaps of 3-5 mm between the boards or flooring slabs.
3. To extend the service life of the roof, it should be provided with steam and wind insulation and ventilation gaps.
4. Vapor barrier film attached with inside battens and fixed with nails or a stapler and then pressed wooden plank in increments of 60 cm. The overlapping areas of the film are taped with double-sided tape.
Laying a vapor barrier layer
5. Residential attics should be pre-insulated. Plates insulation laid staggered (in a checkerboard pattern) on top of a vapor barrier layer between wooden blocks.
6. For additional waterproofing of the most problem areas roofs on the eaves, valley, ridge slope in places where it breaks are unfolded underlay carpet . If the roof slope is insufficient (up to 12-18°), it should be rolled out over the entire surface of the roof. It is advisable to additionally treat all joints with bitumen mastic.
Installation of underlay carpet
7. The underlay carpet is installed with overlap 10-15 cm and secured with roofing nails in increments of 15-20 cm. It is not advisable to bend this material. To create overlaps on roof slopes, it can be cut into 10-15 cm.
Installation cornice strip
9. Installation soft roof start from the eaves. For this it is better to use a special cornice tiles, on which a self-adhesive layer is applied to enhance waterproofing. If it is missing, the tiles installed on the eaves should be thoroughly coated with mastic. Additionally, it is secured with roofing nails with wide heads.
Laying order of the first row
Advice. For installation, tiles from the same batch should be used. Otherwise, significant color deviations may occur. To obtain an even pattern, it is better to alternately use shingles (tiles) from different packages.
10. When installing decorative tiles complex shape“petals” should be laid out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations drawing diagram.
11. Material cutting more convenient to carry out special knife with a hook-shaped blade. To do this, you can use a regular hacksaw for wood. In order not to damage the soft tiles, it is better to cut on a special board.
12. In order for the roof to look neat, it is better to place beacons made of strong threads, which will serve as guidelines during installation.
Installation of subsequent rows
13. Subsequent rows of tiles are also attached to the base using roofing nails. Their caps are completely hidden behind the petals of the next row. The first row is laid starting from the center of the ramp, gradually moving to the sides. Along its edges, the tiles are trimmed if necessary.
14. When installed in the warm season, within a few days the bitumen included in the flexible tiles will melt and self-vulcanization of the shingles will occur. If the weather leaves much to be desired, to fuse the tiles together, they should be treated with a construction hair dryer.
Important! Flexible roof It is not recommended to install at low temperatures (not lower than +5°C) - in the cold the tiles become too fragile and may break at bends.
15. To ensure ventilation, aerators are installed at the ridges or anywhere else on the roof. The places where they meet must be protected with a lining carpet and coated with a layer of mastic.
Roof fans
16. To protect the most vulnerable areas of the roof, additional components: ridges and valleys (flexible strip or curved shingles laid at the junction of roof planes). They are laid simply: a fragment of the shingle is bent and then fixed with roofing nails in 10 cm increments. With the help of ridge tiles, you can also strengthen the bypasses of air ducts, communications outlets and antenna mounting points.
17. Since leaks most often form in areas where valleys are located, it is advisable to lay two layers of shingles in such places.
Advice. When working in conditions of low temperatures, it is better to slightly warm up ridge shingles and valleys on a warm metal pipe to increase flexibility.
Laying the valley
Installation of flexible tiles consists of several basic rules, which will be described in this section.
Roofing materials
Necessary materials for roofing:
- underlay carpet;
- ordinary tiles;
- metal strips;
- bitumen glue;
- valley carpet;
- ridge-eaves tiles;
- roofing nails;
- terminal seals;
- screws.
Instructions for laying flexible bitumen shingles
The roof is the protection of the building from water, wind and snow, so you should remember that the roof should be covered as airtight as possible.
Before installing soft tiles, a standard continuous roof sheathing is made. Moisture-resistant sheets of plywood or OSB are laid on top of the rafters as tightly as possible, in a continuous layer and evenly, which are fixed with nails. The base for installing tiles can be made in two ways:
- either an edged board is used;
- or moisture-resistant OSB or plywood boards.
The joints between elements and the gap between slabs or boards should be no more than 4 mm and the difference in height cannot be more than 2 mm, and the material itself should be clean and dry.
Required Tools
Tools that may be needed when installing the roof:
- regular or pneumatic hammer;
- putty knife;
- roofing knife;
- metal scissors;
- roulette.
Installation of sheathing
This is a very important part of the roofing work, since it is precisely this that guarantees durable and ideal appearance after laying the plastic material.
How to lay slabs or boards in the sheathing? The work begins from the bottom up, and the material is laid first in a continuous strip at the lower edge of the roof, and then row by row to the ridge, while maintaining the permissible gaps.
On this basis, working with flexible tiles becomes safe, and the conclusions exhaust systems holes are made and the exhaust elements are sealed.
Laying underlay carpet
How to cover a roof with underlayment? Underlay carpet is used as additional protection from moisture. In addition, the building can overwinter under this material if weather do not allow covering the roof with flexible tiles.
Laying underlay carpet is necessary condition For high-quality installation and the tightness of the roof, it can be mounted both horizontally and vertically, with a 10 cm overlap of the sheets on each other.
When horizontal laying you should start from the bottom up, overlapping, gluing the edges of each strip of canvas with bitumen glue.
How to lay underlay carpet? Laying nuances.
- Before you start rolling out the underlay carpet, you should cover the valleys with it and coat the edges with bitumen glue.
- Only after covering and fixing the canvas at the valley should you begin laying it on a flat surface, cutting off the edges of the canvases and carefully gluing them along the width of the overlap.
After installation, upon completion of work with the lining carpet, the roof has the following cross-sectional structure:
- rafters;
- continuous sheathing;
- lining carpet.
Laying cornice strips
Cornice strips are laid on top of the underlay carpet
How to install curtain rods correctly?
- The eaves and ends of the roof are reinforced with eaves strips. This is done to ensure that the material does not deform due to the influence of temperature.
- The planks are pre-cut and overlapped 5 cm, then nailed or screwed.
- At the junction, the planks are also secured with two nails for a more rigid rib of the structure.
Flexible tile laying technology
Before starting work on laying tiles, it is necessary to cover all valleys with a carpet similar in color to the main color of the bitumen shingles. The roofing material must be cut close to the edge of the eaves and the edges must be properly glued.
Eaves tiles are laid in an even strip on the eaves at a distance of 10-20 mm from the edge. There is no need to nail this strip because the tape has a self-adhesive layer. In cold weather, you can slightly warm up the strips with a hair dryer to restore the viscosity of the adhesive base.
How to properly lay flexible tiles? Installation of tiles begins from the edge of the roof slope, on top of the eaves tiles.
In order for the first line of tiles to lie perfectly evenly, you can drive a small nail into the ends of the roof and pull the construction thread, thereby maintaining the same distance from the edge along the entire length of the roof, or draw a straight line with chalk for convenience.
It is recommended to print several packages of ordinary tiles, mix the sheets with each other and nail the ordinary tiles with roofing nails, first removing protective film, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge of the eaves tiles, above the cutout of the design. The protrusions of the next row should overlap the cutouts of the previous row. Eaves tiles are cut into the ridges and overlapped so that the nails are hidden under the next sheet.
Sequence of laying flexible tiles:
- continuous sheathing;
- underlay carpet;
- cornice strips;
- cornice tiles
- ordinary flexible tiles;
- skate
As you can see, knowing the basic rules for laying flexible tiles, it is not at all difficult to install it yourself.
Flexible tile laying. Video
Installation of flexible tiles. Video
$ Installation of flexible tiles. Price
The price of installing flexible tiles depends on how completely the preliminary work on laying the sheathing, insulating layers, etc. has been completed. The average installation cost is:
- from 60 to 100 hryvnia in Ukraine;
- from 400 to 700 rubles in Russia.
An alternative to traditional slate, metal profiles, ceramic tiles can serve roofing materials based on flexible bitumen coatings. If you install a roof made of flexible tiles yourself in accordance with the rules developed by the manufacturers, the aesthetic appeal and reliability of the coating are ensured. How to do the work yourself will be discussed in this article.
The main differences between flexible tiles
Flexible tiles are a material similar in structure and composition to roofing felt. The base is a bitumen-impregnated fiberglass canvas. The shape of the tiles is slabs (shingles) with curly petals along the edge. On the back side - sticky layer for gluing to a continuous sheathing, and fine mineral chips are applied to the front side. Additional fastening with nails is provided. After installation, the coating becomes monolithic as a result of sintering individual elements under the sun's rays.
As a result of the improvement of the latter, flexible tiles acquired the following qualities:
The manufacturer's instructions (which must be read after purchasing the covering) contain basic information on how to properly install flexible tiles.
For work, you should choose the warm season at a temperature of +5 °C. Otherwise, the slabs will not stick to the sheathing or to each other. In low temperature conditions, asphalt shingles become brittle.
If installation needs to be done in winter (for partial replacement of the coating), the slabs are kept in a warm room for at least 24 hours. After laying, the tiles are heated with a construction hairdryer, and the joints are sealed using bitumen mastic.
Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles (video on the topic is at the end of the article) is carried out for roofing systems with a slope angle of at least 11.3°. Otherwise, the melting snow will slow down and leaks will inevitably occur. Under such conditions, the service life of the coating is reduced.
Step-by-step description of the installation of bitumen shingles
Regardless of the manufacturer, the method of laying bitumen shingles is the same for any coating and consists of the following steps.
Preparatory stage for installation of flexible tiles
Decorating the valley with lining waterproofing 1. Preparing the base. It is necessary to create a continuous sheathing from edged boards, FSF plywood sheets or OSB boards. It is important to achieve a completely flat and hard surface. Board materials ( moisture resistant plywood, OSB) are laid with offset rows to avoid cross joints. A compensation gap of about 3 mm is left between the plates.
2.Ventilation device. It is necessary to provide for the presence of vents - gaps between the counter-lattice and the sheathing. Between asphalt shingles and insulation, covered vapor barrier material, there must be space for air circulation. Vents or ridge aerators in the upper zone of the roof must ensure the outflow of water vapor.
3.Laying additional waterproofing lining. It is recommended to choose material from the same manufacturer as the bituminous shingles. Installation begins at the bottom of each overhang and moves towards the ridge. In this case, the upper strip must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm over the lower strip. Tightness is ensured by bitumen mastic, which is applied to the joint. In the area of pipes, the waterproofing should extend onto the vertical surface by at least 20 cm. The valleys are covered with a continuous strip of insulation. If it is necessary to join two strips, the joint is made in the upper part with an overlap of 20 cm.
4.Protection of overhangs and gables. The edges of the roof must be covered with metal strips. They are attached on top of the waterproofing. Adjacent elements must be installed with an overlap of 50 mm. Fasteners at the joints should be more frequent - every 2-3 cm. The front strip should overlap the cornice at the joints.
5. Arrangement of passages for antennas, ventilation pipes. To do this, special cornice penetrations and aprons are used, parts are cut out from the valley carpet, and protection is cut out from galvanized sheet iron. The joints are treated with bitumen mastic and silicone sealant.
Finishing the edges of the roof Important: continuous sheathing made of plywood sheets and OSB boards is attached along the edges of the roof at intervals of 10 cm, at the junctions of the plates (on the rafters) - 15 cm and at intermediate intervals rafters– 30 cm.
Laying flexible tiles
To ensure that the coating does not have to be corrected after installation, a laying scheme for flexible tiles is first prepared. This will allow the rows of slabs to be positioned evenly. Marking is done using a cord: applied horizontal lines in increments of 0.8 m and vertical – 1.0 m. It should be borne in mind that the lines should not specify a clear order for laying shingles; they are necessary to adjust the direction of the rows.
Laying bitumen shingles is carried out in compliance with the following rules.
Packages of tiles are selected in random order: this will help to avoid contrasting shades of neighboring elements.
At a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the cornice strip, the cornice tiles are laid. Row tiles with pre-cut petals can be used as starting elements. The sticker is applied after removing the protective tape from the adhesive layer and treating the remaining areas with mastic.
The eaves shingles are secured with roofing nails (the fastening pitch corresponds to the width of the blade) in four places. For roofing systems with a large slope, additional fastenings are required: two more nails are driven in along the edge of each sheet.
The next row is laid with the petals offset so that they overlap the recesses and joints of the shingles of the previous (lower) row.
Important: on top ridge beam Plastic elements are laid to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.
Finishing complex areas with flexible tiles
Difficult areas of the roof, in addition to passages for antennas, cables and chimneys, can be considered the following:
areas near the end strips;
Methods for sealing the roof in these areas.
Beginning roof installers may have questions about how to make manholes on shingles. Manholes are necessary not only for installation, but also for repairing roofing. There are several options to solve the problem.
Roof ladder 
At the end of the article, there is a video tutorial with detailed explanations from a specialist on how to properly lay flexible tiles.