Installation of smallpox on walls. How to properly sheathe the outside of a frame house with OSB? Types of OSB boards

In construction and renovation, various materials are often used to cover walls and ceilings. sheet materials. One of these materials is oriented particle board(OSB), also sold under the English name OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

OSB: what is it and how to use it

OSB is made from wood chips and large shavings, gluing them together when high temperature synthetic resins.

The slab consists of several layers, usually 3-4, with different orientations of the chips.

In the outer layers, the chips are located along the long side of the sheet, in the inner layers - across. According to its characteristics, OSB is close to plywood, but costs less.

Benefits and Features

A distinctive feature of OSB is its high strength due to the cross arrangement of wood fibers. The strength of the boards is superior to MDF, chipboard and wood, slightly inferior to plywood. The boards show high resistance to chemicals. Some manufacturers use special impregnations in the production of slabs - fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the material. OSB boards They are easy to process; to work with them you will need ordinary woodworking tools.

How OSB boards are calculated

There are mainly 2 standard sizes of slabs: 2440*1220 mm (American standard) and 2500*1250 mm (European). There are OSB in other sizes, but they are much less common and are produced mainly to order.

To calculate the quantity, the easiest way is to draw a wall plan on checkered paper, taking the size of the box to be 250 for European standard slabs or 300 mm for American ones. Then draw OSB boards on the plan and count their number. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, you need to take into account how the surface will be finished in the future.

If you plan to cover, for example, with siding on the street or gypsum board indoors, joining with non-factory cuts is allowed, but if painting is planned, try to join the slabs with factory cuts. It is advisable to reduce the number of joints to a minimum. For example, it is better to sew up a fragment of a wall measuring 2.4 m by 1.2 m with one sheet, rather than 3 pieces of 0.8 * 1.2 m, because it is quite difficult to make a perfectly straight cut, and even a slight deviation from straightness will create a gap. To the received amount of OSB you need to add several sheets as a reserve in case of defects or errors during cutting.

An easier way is to divide the surface area by the leaf area. In this case, “in reserve” it is necessary to take at least 20% of the quantity. Round the resulting number up.

What kind of OSB boards are there for external walls?

OSB is made in 4 types:

OSB-1 - used only in dry rooms for cladding.
OSB-2 – used as a construction material in dry rooms.
OSB-3 – can be used both indoors and outdoors. Allowed for use in conditions with high humidity. Strength allows the use of OSB-3 as a structural material.
The most common class is OSB-4 - more durable and moisture resistant than OSB-3.

For cladding external walls, only classes 3 and 4 can be used.

External installation: lathing

External wall cladding can be carried out in several cases:

In order to level out existing walls, hide defects (cracks, crumbling plaster, etc.) and simply as cladding.
At frame construction– to protect the insulation from wind and precipitation, and also as an element of the supporting system.
When insulating walls - to protect the insulation from atmospheric phenomena.

In all 3 cases, OSB sheets are attached to the sheathing. The sheathing is made from wooden lumber different sections, depending on the task. Unplaned softwood timber is most often used. natural humidity section 50*50 or 40*50 mm. OSB can be attached to a metal frame.

When insulating, the sheathing is performed in steps that are a multiple of the width of the insulation minus 20 mm, without insulation - the step is chosen so that the joints of the sheets fall on the beam; several additional racks are added between the joints with a distance between them of at least 600 mm.

When covering walls, use a moisture-proof film, following the recommendations of its manufacturer, in particular, the distance between the membrane and the OSB.

How to attach panels to the wall

OSB boards are usually attached to the wall through the sheathing using wood screws when using bars in the frame, or metal screws when attached to a metal profile frame. The length of the screw should be 25-45 mm.

It is allowed to mount OSB directly to the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in a sheet cut to size, the sheet is installed in place, the wall is drilled in the designated places with a hammer drill, dowels are inserted and screws are tightened. When attached to wooden base The hardware is screwed in without pre-drilling.

Fasten the screws in one selected direction, for example, from left to right, from bottom to top, otherwise the OSB sheet may bend.

How to decorate the outside beautifully from osb

OSB has a rather interesting texture, which leaves many finishing options. At the same time, you need to remember that OSB consists of 90% wood, so the material is subject to the same dangers as wood. Fungus and mold may appear on the slabs; to a small extent they are susceptible to rotting; the resin may be destroyed under the influence of sun rays, the ends of the panels absorb moisture.

OSB boards are treated with wood compounds for outdoor use. The composition must provide UV protection. To preserve color and texture, the surface is coated with colorless varnish and antiseptic impregnations, to give woody shades - with decorative antiseptics, for painting in various colors – facade paints for wood.

To obtain a smooth surface, OSB walls are plastered and puttied. Before applying plaster, the surface of the slab must be protected from moisture with special primers or glassine, then fixed plaster mesh and plastering. It is possible to apply decorative plaster or paint.

Also, OSB walls can be covered with any type of siding or facade panels, block house, clapboard, etc.

OSB material for interior work

OSB is used indoors for cladding walls, ceilings, for constructing subfloors, as a structural material in the manufacture of built-in furniture, for creating decorative elements, boxes, technological cabinets. IN frame housing construction OSB internal wall cladding increases the strength of the structure.

Work progress

Sheathing OSB walls consists of the following steps:

Marking.
Lathing device.
Laying heat and sound insulation, if provided for by the project.
Fastening solid OSB sheets.
Sawing OSB to size.
Fastening the remaining sheets.

Tools

To cover OSB walls you will need:

Hacksaw, Circular Saw or a jigsaw for cutting material.
Screwdriver.
Level.
Marking tool (tape measure, square, pencil).
Perforator for covering brick walls.
Chisel.

Interior finishing options

The unusual structure of OSB allows you to create quite attractive interior. The slabs can be used without finishing, but it is better to coat them with varnish to improve their performance properties. OSB can be painted with wood paints or treated with decorative wood impregnations. To obtain a smooth surface, the panels need to be puttied with wood putty, after which they can be painted or covered with wallpaper.

How to properly make lathing for osb

When installing sheathing from bars, first attach the beam around the perimeter, then install vertical posts with a pitch of 406 mm with a sheet width of 1220 mm and 416 mm with a sheet width of 1250. If you need to join the sheets in height, a horizontal bar is attached at the junction.

The bars are attached to the wall in 2 ways:

Directly through the block. When attaching to concrete, brick, cinder block and aerated concrete walls holes are drilled in the bars according to the diameter of the dowel in increments of 300-400 mm, the block is placed against the wall, holes are drilled in the wall through the prepared holes using a hammer drill, dowels are inserted and screws are tightened or anchors are used. It is more convenient to first secure the block along the edges, after which you can not hold it and calmly fasten it at the remaining designated points. When attaching to wooden walls, the block is tightened with self-tapping screws without drilling holes. It is better to use “white” or “yellow” self-tapping screws, because If the “blacks” use too much force, the cap breaks off and it is very difficult to remove such a self-tapping screw. To adjust the frame vertically, wood linings are used.
On galvanized corners or U-shaped fastening profiles. In this case, first mark the position of the bars, install the fastening elements according to this marking, then attach the beam with self-tapping screws.

When using a metal profile for the frame, a guide profile is attached around the perimeter, and a rack profile is attached to the plane. The profile is fastened to the wall using special hangers.

Racks and guides on the walls must be strictly vertical!

Is frame sheathing with OSB sheathing inside required?

OSB boards can be mounted directly on the wall, but it is better to use lathing. This will allow you to correct the slope or curvature of the wall, lay mineral wool to improve heat and sound insulation. The sheathing also creates air cushion, due to which the space between the wall and the OSB board is ventilated.

Installation of OSB boards

OSB is fastened with the long side vertical to reduce the number of horizontal joints. When attaching the first sheet, you should control its level position, otherwise gaps may appear in the corners of the walls. Otherwise, the fastening rules are the same as for outdoor work.

What should be the thickness

OSB comes in different thicknesses: 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 18, 22, 25 mm.
Sheets with a thickness of 6 and 8 mm are used for cladding ceilings and structures that are not subject to mechanical load. OSB boards 6 mm thick can be used for curved surfaces with a large radius of curvature.

Slabs with a thickness of 9-12 mm are the main cladding material for cladding walls and ceilings both outside and inside premises, for continuous sheathing under the roof.

Material with a thickness of 18 mm or more is used for making furniture, load-bearing structures and subfloors.

Work examples

Attic lined with OSB

Built-in OSB shelving

Relaxation corner made of OSB

Putty on OSB

Operation of OSB finishing: features

Walls made of OSB boards do not require any special care; it is enough to follow the rules common to wooden surfaces, for example, avoid prolonged exposure to moisture.

OSB is a modern high-tech material that, if installed correctly, can last for many years.

Useful video

Since the late nineties, as a rule, OSB boards with a thickness of 9-15mm have been chosen as cladding for the exterior of a house frame. And if quite a lot has been written about the OSB panels themselves, then finding a description of the technology for covering the frame is quite difficult for a novice builder...

And the lack of necessary information, as a rule, leads to errors, such as covering the frame with OSB slabs end-to-end, choosing the wrong pitch of screws for attaching the slabs to the frame of the house, etc.

When studying options for wall cladding with OSB boards on the Internet and in various forums, a lot of questions arise...

Here are just a few of the most asked:

Is a gap between the plates necessary or not?
Why is there an additional OSB panel insert between the first and second floors in one option, while in the other option it is missing?
How to place OSB boards when cladding walls? Vertical or horizontal?
What screw pitch should I choose when attaching OSB panels to frame studs?
What is the required length of screws or nails for fastening OSB sheets?

And so in order: When covering the walls, should you leave an expansion joint between the OSB panels, or fasten them end-to-end?

Let's think... OSB board, like wood, expands or contracts depending on air temperature and humidity. What happens if there is no expansion joint between the panels can be easily understood by looking at Fig. 1. As the slabs expand, their edges will converge and warp, as a result of which after the first winter we will get swollen edges of the panels.

The expansion joint becomes especially relevant if the walls are planned to be sheathed not with OSB boards, but with plywood. The width of the expansion joint should be 3-5 mm. In practice it is most convenient expansion joints formed using not spacers between the plates, but by screwing a screw of the required diameter into the rack

To fasten OSB sheets to the wall of the house frame, it is better to use phosphated (black) screws 55-70 mm long, and when working with a pneumatic hammer, ( if you think about it, even small house or an outbuilding, the number of nails that will need to be driven into the thousands... so, such a tool will be extremely useful, fortunately, budget models have now appeared on the market) special “ruff” nails with a notch 55-65 mm long are used.

The length of nails or screws is determined by the following factor:

To securely fix the sheathing sheets on the walls of the house frame, it is necessary that the nail penetrates at least 40-45 mm into the frame stud of the house wall. We add the thickness of the OSB sheets used to cover the frame, usually sheets with a thickness of 9-12-15 mm are used, and we get the required length of nails or screws within 55-65 mm.

Nails and screws are driven or screwed in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the OSB sheet in order to prevent the sheet edge from splitting. The distance between nails (pitch) along the edge of the sheet is 150 mm, in the center of the sheet 300 mm. (Fig.2)

The main options for the arrangement of slabs when covering a wall frame can be reduced to the three most used:

vertical fig. 3a
horizontally Fig. 3b
options with additional inserts fig. 3v

We'll look at these options in more detail next time...

It is customary to begin work indoors with cladding ceiling structure, this greatly simplifies other steps. There are many products for this process, but OSB boards are becoming increasingly popular. This product has good performance qualities, but has certain styling nuances. An important task is the correct decorative cladding the resulting coverage.

Installation technology

To install OSB boards correctly, the process should be divided into stages. This will allow you to carry out all procedures efficiently and avoid problems in the future.

Preliminary activities include the following:

The ceiling is treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds. The location of communications is determined in advance. If the structure is directly connected to the attic, then steam and waterproofing is carried out and an insulation plan is thought out.
According to a pre-designed layout of the frame posts, the product is cut.
The surface is cleaned of dirt and dust with a broom and rags and, if necessary, degreased.
The products are coated with 2–3 layers of concrete contact primer, each one is thoroughly dried.
A tool for fixing is prepared - a screwdriver with the required set of bits. There should also be a place to carry out the process. For greater convenience, trestles or suitable stepladders are installed.

Before laying the slabs, it is necessary to carry out preliminary measures on the ceiling surface

Correctly carried out preliminary work allows you to avoid problems in the future.

To ensure that the ceiling made of OSB slabs is extremely smooth and reliable, it is erected using lathing. The creation technology is as follows:

If a wooden beam is used, it is pre-impregnated protective compounds from mold and mildew and fire retardants. All parts are thoroughly dried.
The surface is being marked. The first elements will be placed 2–3 cm from the walls, and the overall step depends on the type of base and the need to install insulation. The optimal option is 50–60 cm and the same frequency of jumpers, which will be required if the structure needs reinforcement or the slabs are cut into small fragments.
The first frame post is attached near one of the walls and leveled. A cord is stretched from it to the opposite surface along both edges to position the second part. The remaining fragments of the sheathing are laid along the resulting plane. The structure must be secured with a margin of safety, so it is better to choose metal anchors.
Communications are laid, the location of lighting fixtures is marked.

The sheathing is a special frame onto which OSB boards are subsequently attached.

You should know! A significant disadvantage of using plastic dowels when working with concrete structures is weakened during a fire, which can lead to collapse and blocking of the exit.

OSB is attached to the ceiling with great care; any inaccuracies will lead to distortions. For ease of fixation, the parts are drilled out in several places, this will allow you to quickly install the self-tapping screw. The material must be hemmed according to a certain pattern:

The first element should be attached in the most visible corner. If the surface is drawn from the center, then you will need to perform complex transverse and diagonal markings, as well as pull the installation cords.
Before fixing, it is necessary to make a gap from the wall of 10–15 mm and ensure that the seam is at least 3 mm. The screws are screwed in with force to ensure the deepening of the head.
Due to the fact that the frame cross members are also used for fastening, they are marked after installation. To do this, a mark is made on the edge of the panel, aligned with the opposite one, and screws are tightened along the resulting line.
If cutting is done locally, then the dimensions of the required part are first measured. The edges must lie on the sheathing.
The remaining fragments should be hemmed using the same principle.

The fastening should not be done close to the wall, you need to leave a small gap

For a good fit, you can use plates with a locking connection. They are suitable for situations where it is necessary to obtain a surface that will be decorated with transparent compounds.

OSB ceiling finishing options

Sheathing the base with slabs is not difficult, but subsequent cladding is much more difficult. A variety of options can be used for this.

For finishing the ceiling from OSB boards, any decorative materials: varnish, wallpaper, decorative plaster, LMDF or LDVP panels

Varnishing

An original method that allows you to obtain a coating that has a distinct woody base. To do this, the hemming material passes preliminary preparation: the cracks are filled with a mixture of sawdust and PVA, the sealed areas are sanded, then the surface is impregnated with a primer.

The varnish is applied in several layers, after each coat the coating is dried well.

Wallpapering

OSB can be finished with a special fiberglass variety of wallpaper. If you plan to use traditional roll options, then for better adhesion it is recommended to pre-putty the base. When choosing this method, the joints are additionally covered with reinforcing mesh. It is advisable to choose multi-layer wallpaper and use suitable glue.

Painting

If desired, the surface can be treated with any color paint and varnish compositions, but as time passes, dark spots may appear. To avoid such troubles, perform the following steps:

The coating is degreased and impregnated with 2-3 layers of primer.
The ceiling is being plastered. The applied layer should be no thinner than 2–3 mm. For greater reliability when working on large areas, everything is covered with a special reinforcing mesh.
The resulting base can be whitened or painted.

OSB boards are being used more and more often for interior decoration of houses, so subsequent cladding methods are constantly being improved. This allows you to sheathe rooms not only with high quality, but also beautifully.

Wooden floors in a private home lose their presentable appearance over time. Numerous layers of paint are cracking and peeling at the edges. And because of this, often even a newly painted surface looks sloppy. To tidy up such a floor, you have to completely clean the boards, treat the wood, and then periodically paint it again.

Therefore, when carrying out the next renovation, many homeowners make a different decision. Specifically: lay one of the modern decorative coverings on top of the wooden floor - laminate, parquet board, linoleum or carpet.

To implement such an idea, it is necessary that the base of the floor is suitable for laying a decorative covering. That is, it had a perfectly flat surface, aligned in a horizontal plane, without protrusions, “ladders,” or sagging areas. This can be achieved by installing OSB on wooden floor.

General information about OSB boards

Unique physical and mechanical characteristics, with relatively affordable price, make OSB boards increasingly popular in various fields of construction. With the help of this material, floors can be perfectly leveled and laid, and with minimal effort, low costs and saving time. In addition, even a home owner inexperienced in the art of construction can handle the installation of slabs on the surface on his own.

Before studying the technology of installing OSB boards, it is necessary to briefly consider their characteristics and compare them with other similar materials.

It must be said that oriented strand boards, in some of their technical and operational characteristics, are superior to other materials of a similar purpose. But, due to their design features, they most often cannot be used as floor finishing coating.

Oriented strand boards are made from wood chips laid in several layers in a longitudinal-transverse manner. On the outer layers, chips are usually placed along the length of the slabs, and on the inner layers - across. The layers are bonded together under pressure with polymer resins.

Thanks to this technology for manufacturing OSB boards, they have improved physical and mechanical properties compared to some other similar building materials.

The main characteristics of oriented strand boards are shown in the table:

The characteristic features of OSB boards during their installation and operation can be outlined as follows:

High moisture resistance. When testing in laboratory conditions, the material was completely immersed in water for 24 hours. As a result, the swelling was only 18÷25%. And at the same time, the slab was not destroyed, and its strength was preserved.
Strength and long term operation. Oriented strand boards can withstand high loads and extreme conditions. Thanks to the multi-layer structure of the material, the plates hold fasteners well.
Easy installation of large-format sheet material.
The low cost makes such slabs affordable, even if the amount allocated for repairs is limited.
OSB boards, manufactured in accordance with technological requirements, consist of 96% natural materials. Therefore, they can be called conditionally environmentally friendly. If slabs are purchased for use in residential premises, you should choose material marked E1.

Thanks to your technical specifications Oriented strand boards are excellent for subflooring under decorative flooring.

The slabs have a perfectly flat surface. Therefore, they can easily level wooden floors made from ordinary wooden board and deformed during long-term use.
Each slab covers a fairly large floor area. The most common sizes are 2240x1220 mm and 2500x1250 mm. And this corresponds to 2.98 and 3.125 square meters. When laying them, the surface will have a minimum number of joints. Therefore, they are ideal for arranging a base for flooring consisting of small-format elements - parquet boards, parquet, vinyl tiles, etc.

OSB boards have self-supporting ability and stable geometry. Therefore, they can be used as a rough floor covering, fastening them to installed logs or sparsely left floorboards. Thanks to these same qualities, slabs can strengthen the old one, raising it bearing capacity and rigidity.
Since the slabs consist of several layers of wood, which itself has sound and heat insulating qualities, covering them to some extent can protect the room from extraneous noise. In addition, an additional layer attached to the wooden floor will help reduce heat leakage from the rooms.

OSB boards are not afraid of moisture, so they can be used to create a subfloor structure on joists. Moreover, by sheathing the logs with them both above and below, it is possible to fill the resulting space with one of the insulating materials.

In the table below, for greater clarity of information, comparative evaluation characteristics of various board materials made from wood raw materials and having approximately the same purpose are given.

Name of the estimated parameters	Rating on a five-point scale
Final average score	2,86	3,00	3,28	3,57
	MDF	Chipboard	Glued plywood	Plates OSB
Strength	2	3	4	4
Resistance to external weather influences	1	2	3	3
Stability of dimensional parameters	2	3	3	3
Weight	2	2	3	3
Manufacturability of machining	3	4	4	5
Manufacturability of surface painting	5	3	3	2
Probability of material defects (delamination, presence of sinuses, knots)	5	4	3	5

Types of OSB boards

Today, construction stores offer several varieties of oriented strand boards. They differ in characteristics, and therefore in purpose. Therefore, when choosing a material for a specific area of construction or repair, it is necessary to pay attention to this factor.

OSB-1 - this material has very low moisture resistance and strength, and is not of particular quality. Therefore, such slabs are most often used only for auxiliary work.
OSB-2 boards are already of much higher quality, but their moisture resistance indicators are still not outstanding. They are, as a rule, intended for use in dry rooms in those structures where contact with moisture is completely excluded.

OSB-3 is a universal product that can be used for covering surfaces both in dry rooms and in rooms with high humidity. They are used to cover walls, lay them on wooden floors when leveling them, and arrange floors along joists.
OSB-4 have a thickness of 15÷25 mm and are most often used for the construction of load-bearing structures in rooms with any level of humidity or even in outdoor conditions. They can also be used for flooring as a subfloor.

Plates can have different linear dimensions, but the most common are those dimensions that have already been mentioned above. However, you need to pay attention to this parameter when purchasing material. This way it will be possible to reduce waste when cutting them.

Preparing the surface for OSB boards

In order for OSB boards to fit perfectly on top of plank floors, and to avoid problems in the form of creaks and sagging during operation, a number of preparatory work must be performed before their installation:

An inspection of the plank base is carried out to identify rotten boards and joists. Creaking and warped areas of the old flooring are identified.
In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the insulation, if it is present in the overall “pie” of the floor structure. Thermal insulation should not be damp, settled, damaged by rodents, etc. Sometimes you have to change it too.

You can check the evenness of a wooden floor using building level or rules. The tool is installed on the surface across the boards. If a gap has formed between the boards and the tool, then the floor is deformed and requires repair.

Unevenness in an old wooden floor is by no means uncommon. Over many years of operation, it is not only subjected to high loads, but is also “tested” by changes in humidity. A wet board becomes deformed when it dries - it can bend, wrap itself like a “propeller,” etc.

If the floors are not put in order, then the laid OSB boards will not rest on the entire plank surface, but only on the raised sections of the boards. And what will happen in the end?

At installation work ah, the slabs, which have a small thickness, will take the shape of the irregularities of the plank base. It will not be possible to properly lay laminate or parquet boards on such a surface due to the peculiarities of the interlocking joints.

Oriented Strand Boards large thickness do not have pronounced flexibility, so it will not be possible to press them tightly to an uneven base using fasteners. This means that the coating will begin to creak either immediately after installation, or after some time.

There are two ways to level a plank floor:

Dismantling deformed boards and replacing them with new, smooth ones. The option can hardly be considered cost-effective, so it is used infrequently.

Surface scraping using special equipment.

The second option is possible if the boards have risen above the main surface to a not too great height.

If the boardwalk sags, it means that the board used is too thin. Or the logs underneath are spaced too far apart. If you use thin OSB boards to level such a floor, they will begin to sag along with the plank base. Well, he’ll start “dancing” with them and decorative coating. In such situations, if the condition of the logs themselves does not cause any complaints, it is necessary to use OSB with a thickness of 18÷22 mm for covering the surface.

However, we repeat, this is only possible if the plank covering is mounted on strong, reliable joists. That is, they also need to be inspected by temporarily removing two or three floorboards.

If the floors were leveled using scraping, then upon completion of the work the boards must be thoroughly cleaned and then covered with a special impregnation with an antiseptic effect.

Installation work for laying OSB on a wooden floor

OSB boards are laid on wooden floors in different ways. This often depends on what kind of flooring will be laid on top.

For example, if you plan to lay laminate, parquet boards, vinyl tiles, etc., then the installation should be planned so that the joints of the parts flooring did not coincide with the joints of the OSB boards.
If you do not want to calculate the location of the floor covering elements, then you can choose the option of transverse laying. That is, lay the OSB slabs so that the joints of the finishing flooring elements are perpendicular to the joints of the base slabs.
Or, if you like, you can choose diagonal laying finishing coating, at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, such an installation scheme, for example, of a laminated board, can be relevant in rooms with uneven walls. This option will visually hide flaws in the geometry of the room.
Before starting installation, be sure to check the evenness of the corners. And it is advisable to start installation work with the smoothest of them.
Another frequently occurring problem is the divergence of opposite walls in the form of a trapezoid. In this case, it is necessary to make preliminary markings and adjust the slabs laid along the walls according to it. Leaving narrow wedge-shaped strips along the walls in the hope of later filling them with scraps is absolutely the wrong approach.

Installation tools

To perform installation work, naturally, you will need some tools and auxiliary materials:

To cut OSB boards, you need to have a hacksaw on hand, electric jigsaw and/or a hand-held circular saw. A cut made with a regular hacksaw will not be very neat, and it will take much more time and effort. That's why best option- this is a jigsaw. Even a novice master can handle this tool. WITH circular saw the work is somewhat more difficult, but faster, and the cut is the most even.

If you don’t have such tools at your disposal, you can look for rental options. Many stores offer similar services.

To secure the slabs to a plank surface you will need
You will need a tape measure, a long metal ruler, a construction square, painter's cord for marking straight lines and a black marker.
Fasteners - black self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

There is a lot of controversy about black self-tapping screws, saying that they do not provide reliable fixation. It is difficult to agree with this - with a prepared, leveled, stable foundation, exorbitant loads are not expected. And such a self-tapping screw can break off only under very catastrophic destructive influences. But in such a situation, no other fasteners will help.

Installation of OSB boards

So, the installation process consists of several stages and is carried out in the following order:

The first step along the longitudinal wall of the room is to mark a line, which will immediately show how smooth it is.
The edge of the slab that will join the wall must be marked and trimmed so that it takes the direction of the wall and the shape of the corner in which it will be laid. The outer lines of the slab must remain perfectly smooth, with a factory edge. Therefore, it is not recommended to touch at least two sides of the sheet.
When laying the slab against the wall, it is necessary to maintain a deformation gap, which should be 10÷12 mm. To ensure that the gap is the same, you can use spacer wedges. Another option is to glue an elastic damper tape around the perimeter of the walls below before starting work.

All sheets of the first row may have to be adjusted along the wall line so that outside their edge formed one straight line. To make it easier to maintain this border, focusing on the outer edge of the first sheet, using a paint cord, on plank floor a straight line is struck from wall to wall.

All the slabs of the first row are laid along this line and then secured. It is necessary to leave a gap of 3÷5 mm between the plates to avoid squeaks or even deformations when thermal expansion material.

The second row of sheets, whatever their size, is laid so that their joints do not coincide with the joints of the sheets of the first row. That is, a shift is made like “ brickwork" It often happens that the remains of the last sheet of the previous row become the beginning of the next one.
The last row will also have to be adjusted, but already to opposite wall. Well, the most last page- and to the corner.

The slabs are fixed to the base using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in strictly vertically in increments of 350÷400 mm. And their caps should be recessed into the thickness of the slab by 2–3 mm. In order for the slabs to be fixed as firmly and reliably as possible, it is best to fasten them not only around the perimeter. As an option, draw two diagonal lines, and also screw in self-tapping screws along them with the same pitch. This is especially important if the base is covered with large, entire OSB sheets.

Some craftsmen use nails for fastening. But this is not recommended, since squeaks may occur during further use of the coating.

In fact, this is all the secrets of installing OSB boards on a wooden base. As you can see, the task is not so difficult, and any owner should cope with it.

* * * * * * *

A few final words. Although oriented strand boards are considered suitable only for arranging a subfloor, some craftsmen can easily turn them into a decorative coating. For this process it is used special technology and varnish. At the same time, the floor surface is no less aesthetic and durable than when expensive materials are laid on it.

One more thing. You should never forget about your own health and that of your loved ones. Completely environmentally friendly OSB can be considered products of emission class E1 or E0.5 with the designations “Green” or “ECO”.

Such materials are made without components harmful to human health. As a rule, these are products from European manufacturers that fully comply with technology that meets strict EU environmental standards. However, the cost of such products is somewhat higher.

Some Russian manufacturers, unfortunately, do not care enough about consumer health. And most often, adhesives containing formaldehyde resins are used as a binder. The cost of such materials is low.

When purchasing OSB, each owner must decide for himself what is more important to him: the price of the material or the health of his family. And to make sure that the selected slabs are clean, you should ask the seller for a certificate of material quality.

The information content of the article will be complemented by a video that shows the nuances of installing OSB boards on a wooden base.

Video: Leveling a plank floor with OSB boards

Before we talk about the technical details and intricacies of the internal cladding with OSB or OSB boards (aka OSB, OSB sheets), it is worth thinking about the feasibility of this event. Installation of OSB boards indoors takes place in two cases, namely:

If you have frame house and the frame is not sheathed yet.
If the pattern and texture OSB boards are a decorative element.

If you just need to level the walls, then for this purpose would be better suited plasterboard, since it is cheaper and more convenient to work with during installation and further finishing.

Technologies outer skin houses are described in the article: . Let's look at the question here correct installation OSB boards on the walls inside the house.

Selecting slabs for installing OSB on walls inside the house

When using any material inside a house, including OSB boards, you should pay attention to its harmlessness to the health of the inhabitants of this house. 34 years have passed since the appearance of OSB boards, and all these years the debate about the environmental friendliness of OSB boards has not stopped. In fact, there are grounds for these disputes, since in fact, when gluing wood chips, polymer resins containing formaldehyde are used. But formaldehyde is also found in many other surrounding things, for example, in fabrics in laminated chipboard furniture, combustion products, etc.

OSB boards on the walls inside the house.

To prevent people from being poisoned by formaldehyde, enlightened Europeans established control over the production of OSB boards and divided the harmfulness of boards into classes. Boards with formaldehyde emission class E1 are harmless to human health and are used in construction residential buildings. Therefore, when purchasing OSB panels, choose a reliable and trusted manufacturer, as your health may depend on it. The Austrian four-star hotel Arlmont, whose interior decoration is replete with OSB panels, can say better than any words about the environmental friendliness of OSB panels.

Hotel Arlmont, Vo interior decoration OSB sheets were used.

OSB boards are divided into water resistance classes:

OSB-1 is the board class most susceptible to moisture and has the lowest strength. Such boards are used for furniture production.

OSB-2 is a class of boards with the same moisture resistance as OSB-1, but more durable. Such boards can be used for wall cladding in dry rooms.

OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board with high strength. They are suitable for installation in damp areas. But with prolonged contact with water they become deformed.

OSB-4 - boards with maximum moisture resistance. They are able to withstand prolonged contact with water.

OSB4 boards are not widely popular due to their price, which is on average twice as high as OSB3 boards. Therefore, OSB3 boards are widely used. If they are treated with a primer or painted, then such slabs become resistant to prolonged contact with water.

More details about the various OSB characteristics sheets can be found in the article: .

Cladding the walls of a frame house from the inside

Before you start interior lining frame house, it is necessary to insulate the walls, cover the frame from the outside and the insulation with a vapor barrier.

It is recommended to insulate walls mineral wool, and it is better than slab, since it is easier to work with than polystyrene foam, it holds up better in vertical structures and does not settle down, which happens with fiberglass insulation. Other insulation materials are not excluded and are also suitable for insulating the walls of a frame house. You can learn more about various insulation materials in the article:.

After insulating the walls, they must be covered with a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier membrane protects the wall from moisture penetration, which will keep the house frame and insulation dry. The vapor barrier is fastened with a regular construction stapler, with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and glued together with special double-sided tape.

An example of a frame house wall design. WITH inside laid on the frame vapor barrier film, OSB boards are attached on top of it.

The sheathing itself is done as follows: the sheets are screwed one after another to the frame of the house. The gap between the sheets is 3 mm. The sheets are screwed with wood screws 35-40 mm long. All holes (for windows, doors, mounting holes) are cut with a jigsaw.

Decorative wall cladding with OSB boards and lathing

As a sheathing, it is best to use a metal profile as for gypsum board. It is easy to install and is not subject to deformation like wood. When choosing wooden bars for sheathing, it is better to use bars made from dried wood, because such bars bend and curl less when they dry out. The installation technologies in both cases are not fundamentally different, so let’s consider them using the example of lathing made of metal profiles.

In order to sheathe internal walls with OSB boards, you need to start by installing sheathing on the walls of the room.

The lathing installation technology looks like this:

1. First you need to install the starting profile, which is mounted on the adjacent walls, floor and ceiling as in Figure 1. On the sides, the profile should stand strictly vertically and close along the perimeter with the upper and lower profile.

Figure 1. The starting profile is mounted to the adjacent wall. And it closes with the upper and lower profile.

2. After installing the starting profile, you need to make markings on the wall for hanging. Since the hangers will hold the vertical posts of the sheathing, you need to mark it in such a way that two solid OSB sheets meet in the middle of the profile; you also need to install one profile in the center of each solid OSB sheet.

Hangers are attached to the wall. The sheathing is attached to them.

3. Mount the profile. When fixing the profile on hangers, it is important to control the plane of the sheathing as a rule, so that in the future a “hole” or “belly” does not form on the wall.

OSB installation slabs on interior wall using lathing.