Installation of heating devices. Installation of heating radiators: installation methods and work procedure

A good life does not require installing an additional battery. The householder decides to do this after painfully weighing the pros and cons, since installing an additional battery is associated with certain costs and moral costs. In any case, an increase in the heat-transfer surface will lead to an increase room temperature and, accordingly, to warming in the home. This result is achieved in two ways: either by increasing the number of sections in the radiator, or by hanging an additional battery in a new location

Adding a section to a heating radiator

Sectional-type home radiators are currently represented by products made of cast iron, aluminum or a bimetallic version. To extend the radiator, only sections that are similar in design and type of material to the existing sections of the radiator are used.

The procedure for all three types of batteries is the same and includes:

• preliminary disassembly of the radiator from the addition side additional element,
• subsequent assembly.

Radiator disassembly

First you need to make sure there is no water in the system. Only after this, remove the battery from the mounting hooks and place it on a level place to remove the blind plug or sleeve. Using a radiator wrench, the fittings are unscrewed, but not completely, forming a gap between the sections of the order of several millimeters. It is not advisable to release the fittings at a greater distance, since the threads may jam.

Disassembly process cast iron radiator very labor intensive, you need to be patient. Often the footers and sections “stick” so strongly that it is impossible to do without blowtorch or autogen. Only after warming up the joint is it possible to tear off the stuck fitting and turn it. Please note that sections, plugs and sections have different thread directions.

Assembling additional sections of the heating radiator

The radiator and the added section are placed on flat surface, moreover, it is easier to assemble on the floor, literally on your knees, than on the apparent comfortable table. Both nipples with intersection gaskets made of paronite or rubber mounted on a threadless smooth middle part are screwed into the threaded inlets of the larger radiator, cleaned of dirt and rust. The free end of the nipple is slightly pressed by the attached additional section.

There is no need to use joint sealant. But if there are remains of old or factory gaskets at the ends of the crimping planes of the old radiator and the new section, then they must be carefully removed without subsequent stripping. The threads should be tightened evenly without applying excessive force.

It is important! When tightening the thread, the nipple may rupture or the thread on the radiator section may break, so you should absolutely not rely on the maximum possible effort under the pretext that the tighter the tightening, the better.

On both nipples, alternately in two stages (preliminarily - “at half strength” and finally - a little less than the maximum possible force) tighten the threads with a wrench until the sections are completely closed into a single whole. When tightening, it is advisable to alternately make an average of one turn for each nipple; this will prevent dangerous overloads from occurring on the thread.

The same sequence of work is followed for aluminum and bimetallic radiators. Small differences are only in other sizes of nipples and keys, probably less effort during disassembly than for old cast-iron radiators, more convenient markings on the fittings for thread directions.

The assembled extended battery must be hung back on the prepared brackets and connected to the central heating pipes.

Installing an extra battery

More convenient option For a householder, when solving the problem of how to add a heating battery, install an additional radiator in a pre-selected location. During installation, it is necessary to ensure the maximum possible heat transfer from the surface of the radiator. It is recommended to place the battery under the window so that the convective heat flow from the heated surface serves as a kind of air screen for the air emanating from the frozen window. The distance from the wall plane to the radiator is regulated in the range from 2 to 5 cm, the distance from the floor - from 10 to 12 cm.

On the radiator, you need to take advantage of this opportunity to install a special valve for timely removal air jams. And install additional taps on the coolant inlet and outlet pipes so that if there is an urgent need to remove the radiator, the water circulation through the riser will not be turned off.

Connection diagrams for installed heating batteries

Having installed a new radiator, you need to intelligently approach the question of how to connect an additional heating battery, since heat transfer losses fundamentally depend on the method of connecting the radiator to the central heating pipes.

There are three main connection types:

1. lower;
2. lateral;
3. diagonal.

The choice is made depending on the type of pipeline wiring in the field and the layout of the room. Let's consider the conditional diagrams of all three types of connection. The following designations are used in the diagrams:

1. Mayevsky crane;
2. battery;
3. direction of heat flow (red color - hot water, blue - cooled);
4. stub.

Bottom connection of the heating battery

The inlet (with hot water) and outlet (with cooled water) pipes of the heating system are connected to the lower pipes, spaced on opposite sides of the radiator. This connection is least effective compared to lateral or diagonal connection for apartment buildings, but wins in those special cases when the heating system is hidden in the floor.

Lateral connection of the heating battery

The pipes are connected through pipes on one side; it is most common in high-rise buildings with a standard centralized system heating. Very convenient for everyday use. With this installation method, the radiator heating battery produces rated power. But when the number of joined sections is more than 15, heat transfer deteriorates. In this case, it is advisable to change the wiring diagram.

Diagonal connection of the heating battery

The pipe supplying hot water is mounted to the upper pipe of the radiator, and the pipe discharging cooled water is connected to the lower pipe, located on the opposite side. The diagonal pattern is recommended for batteries with added extended sections. Thanks to this scheme, hot water is evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of the battery. The heat transfer efficiency is maximum here.

Any heating system is a rather complex “organism” in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - it is they who are entrusted with ultimate goal transfer of thermal energy or into the premises of the house. In this capacity, conventional radiators, open or open convectors can act hidden installation, water underfloor heating systems that are gaining popularity are pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You might be interested in information about what it is

This publication will focus on heating radiators. Let us not be distracted by their diversity, structure and specifications: on our portal there is enough comprehensive information on these topics. Now we are interested in another set of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installation of batteries. Correct installation heat exchange devices, rational use of the inherent technical capabilities- This is the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even the most expensive modern radiator will have low returns if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should you consider when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors that are connected to each other by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal, which provides the necessary high heat transfer (a striking example -), or is “clad” in a special casing, the design of which provides for a maximum contact area with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 – Upper collector;

2 – Lower collector;

3 – Vertical channels in radiator sections;

4 – Heat exchange housing (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outputs on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower pair B3-B4). It is clear that when connecting a radiator to the heating circuit pipes, only two of the four outputs are connected, and the remaining two are muted. And from the connection diagram, that is, from relative position The coolant supply pipes and the return outlet largely depend on the operating efficiency of the installed battery.

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must understand exactly what kind of heating system is operating or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant is coming from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

IN multi-storey buildings The most commonly used one-pipe system. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into a “break” in a single pipe through which both the coolant is supplied and its discharge towards the “return” is carried out.

The coolant passes sequentially through all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

One more point is important here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed.

• On the left (item 1) the top supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to the top point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
• To simplify the system and save Supplies Another scheme is often organized - with bottom feed (item 2). In this case, on the ascending top floor The radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe as on the one going down. This means that the direction of coolant flow in these “branches” of one loop changes to the opposite. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to understand this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system is your radiator installed - the optimal insertion pattern depends on the direction of flow.

A mandatory condition for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass”, which is not entirely clear to some, is understood as a jumper connecting the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in single pipe system. Why it is needed, what rules are followed when installing it - read in the special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side it will flow into the radiator, and from which side it will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

While attractive due to the simplicity of its design, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating on different radiators in the house wiring. Read what is important to know about how to install it yourself in a separate publication on our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already based on the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme “rests” on two pipes – separately on the supply and “return”.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in a multi-story building, you will immediately see the differences.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of flow is determined only by the relative position of the pipes embedded in the risers. The only thing you need to know is which specific riser serves as the supply and which is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. The coolant is simply supplied from the top through one pipe. But on the right is a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

Dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was all that said? what is posted in the previous sections of the article? But the fact is that the heat transfer of the heating radiator very seriously depends on the relative position of the supply and return pipes.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into the circuit	Coolant flow direction
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from above
This scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is this that is taken as the basis when calculating the heat transfer of a specific radiator model, that is, the power of the battery for such a connection is taken as one. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator heats up evenly over its entire area.
This type of scheme is one of the most common in heating systems of multi-storey buildings, as it is the most compact in conditions of vertical risers. It is used on risers with a top supply of coolant, as well as on return and downstream ones - with a bottom supply. Quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then heating may be uneven. Kinetic energy the flow becomes insufficient to distribute the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Thus, in the part of the battery farthest from the entrance, stagnant zones cannot be excluded, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with optimal length battery, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3÷5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes ineffective or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-sided radiator connection with top supply
The scheme is similar to the previous one, and in many ways repeats and even enhances its inherent disadvantages. It is used in the same risers of single-pipe systems, but only in schemes with bottom supply - on the ascending pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20÷22%. This is due to the fact that the closure of the coolant movement through the nearby vertical channels will also be facilitated by the difference in density - the hot liquid tends upward, and therefore passes more difficultly to the remote edge of the lower supply manifold of the radiator. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the rising pipe the overall temperature level of the coolant is always higher. The scheme can be optimized by installing special devices.
Two-way connection with bottom connection of both connections
The lower connection scheme, or as it is often called the “saddle” connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems of private houses due to wide possibilities hide the heating circuit pipes under the decorative floor surface or make them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution through vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up significantly less than the lower part. There are certain methods and means to reduce this disadvantage to a minimum.
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from below
Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very big. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentive to freely penetrate into the far section of the lower supply manifold of the radiator - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the entrance to the battery. As a result, with the top sufficiently evenly heated, in bottom corner When I enter the opposite direction, stagnation often forms, that is, the temperature of the battery surface in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation when it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the bottom one-way battery connection. This is a controversial issue, as many radiators that offer the possibility of such an insertion have special adapters that essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided connection will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

It must be said that there are also more “exotic” insertion schemes, for example, for vertical radiators high altitude– some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections on top. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

Dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of a radiator on its installation location in the room

In addition to the connection diagram of radiators to the heating circuit pipes, the efficiency of these heat exchange devices is seriously affected by the location of their installation.

First of all, must be observed certain rules placement of the radiator on the wall in relation to adjacent structures and interior elements of the room.

The most typical location of the radiator is under window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the ascending convection flow creates a kind of “ thermal curtain", preventing the free penetration of colder air from the windows.

• The radiator at this location will show maximum efficiency, if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, you must try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
• The distance from the bottom plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located above - a shelf, horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
• The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, “lifting” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
• Finally, the radiator must be positioned at least 20 mm away from the wall using brackets. Reducing this clearance is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust traces may soon appear on the wall.

These are guidelines that should be followed. However, for some radiators there are also manufacturer-developed recommendations for linear installation parameters - they are indicated in the product operating manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show much higher heat transfer than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even a window sill that is too wide can already reduce heating efficiency by several percent. And if you consider that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, try to cover up unsightly radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed covers, then the calculated power of the batteries may not be enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the features of installing the heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located completely open on the wall, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths – convection and thermal radiation – are completely preserved. Efficiency can be taken as one.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation this does not matter, but the convection flow already encounters a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, there is not a window sill or shelf on top, but the upper wall of a wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive wall material.
	The radiator on the front part is covered with a decorative screen, but there is sufficient clearance for air convection. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with this installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is completely covered with a decorative casing on all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are grilles or slot-like openings for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in order to increase the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes space is so limited that you have to put up with existing conditions regarding both the location of the heating circuit pipes and the free space on the surface of the walls. Another option is that the desire to hide the batteries from view prevails over common sense, and installing screens or decorative covers is a done deal. This means, in any case, you will have to make adjustments to the total power of the radiators in order to guarantee that the required level of heating is achieved in the room. The calculator below will help you make the appropriate adjustments correctly.

In order to keep the apartment warm and comfortable during the cold season, it is necessary to install the batteries efficiently. An important step is correct connection all elements. The norms and basic rules are prescribed in the legislation, and it would be useful to familiarize yourself with them. If you have the desire and opportunity, you can do the installation yourself.

Features and types of heating systems

How warm the apartment will be depends on what type of heating system is installed in the room.

They can be divided into 3 main types according to the connection diagram:

• single-pipe;
• two-pipe;
• collector

As for the one-pipe system, in this case the coolant flows through one pipe to all batteries, and ultimately returns through it after it has cooled. This option is the easiest to install, and for this reason it is used in all multi-storey buildings. However, there are also disadvantages, in particular, when moving to other radiators, the coolant cools down more and more, and accordingly, less heat enters the room. In addition, you cannot disconnect only one battery for repairs; in this case, you will have to shut off the entire riser.

With a two-pipe system, the coolant flows through one pipe, but separately to all batteries. In this situation, all radiators are heated evenly, and the cooled water goes through a separate pipe into the boiler, where it is heated again. If replacement is necessary, there is no need to disconnect the riser; it is enough to shut off only one battery, which simplifies the work compared to the previous option.

The system using a collector is used mainly in cottages and is much more complex. IN in this case go to each radiator individual pipes. System installation on our own is impossible, the work of specialists is required.

The batteries themselves, depending on the material of manufacture, can be:

• bimetallic;
• aluminum;
• cast iron;
• steel.

Bimetallic include elements made from various metals and are often used in apartments. They have good heat transfer, are easy to install, but have a fairly high price. Working pressure – 35 atm.

Aluminum batteries also do not create installation problems and dissipate heat well. Due to pressure up to 18 atm, they are often installed in multi-storey buildings. Radiators are resistant to corrosion, but they cannot be installed with copper pipes, as the bases may react, leading to the destruction of both elements.

Cast iron batteries are most often used in old housing stock, where there are few floors, since their pressure reaches only 12 atm. They are installed quite rarely in apartments. Radiators have significant weight, which creates difficulties during installation; in addition, they heat up and cool down for a long time. Among the advantages are their strength and long service life.

Steel radiators They are reasonably priced and suitable for apartment buildings. Among the disadvantages, consumers note a short service life - about 15-20 years. And also in this case there is no possibility to expand additional sections. Easy to install and can be installed with any pipes.

Depending on the material of manufacture, differences appear in the installation process of radiators. Due to their strength, cast iron heating elements are more resistant to mechanical stress; others require careful handling. Installation should be carried out exclusively on walls made of brick and concrete; if there is a plasterboard wall nearby, a special stand is required.

In modern models it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky tap.

Connection methods

SNiP prescribes the basic rules for installing heating radiators. The ability of the radiator to withstand pressure is important. The manufacturing material should not react with the pipes that are supplied to the product in order to avoid corrosion processes. The battery should be placed 10 centimeters below the protruding part of the window sill to release heat flow.

The distance between the floor and the bottom of the radiator should be more than 10 and less than 15 centimeters. This is a fundamental issue, otherwise the processes of uniform heat transfer will be disrupted. All sections must be connected evenly and have no significant differences in height.

In order for heat transfer to occur most efficiently, it is important to place the heating radiator correctly. Experts recommend placing it under windows in order to minimize heat loss through these areas. In the case when there is an external cold wall, it is recommended to place additional devices on it.

In general, batteries in an apartment can be located in several ways:

• lateral location;
• lower;
• diagonal;
• sequential.

The most popular is the side arrangement of batteries. It is characterized by high heat transfer. The pipe through which it's hot water is introduced into the upper pipe, and discharge occurs from the lower one. In the case of bottom placement, both pipes are located at the bottom. The diagram is relevant if the pipes are located in the floor or under the baseboard.

Diagonal is used when the battery has a large number of sections, 12 or more. The coolant enters through the top pipe and exits from the bottom. Sequential is relevant when plumbing system has sufficient pressure for hot water to flow through all radiators.

In cases where installation is necessary additional radiator, first you need to remove the coolant from the system. After securing the brackets, the radiator is attached, the connections are secured with a special key. You need to install a Mayevsky tap on the free hole, and close all the others with a plug. Next, you should attach the battery itself and carefully align it. After this, the remaining elements are brought in and everything is connected into a single system, which must be absolutely sealed.

Substitution rules

There are times when radiators need replacement.

This can happen in two situations:

• battery failure;
• replacing old radiators with new ones.

In the event of a breakdown, it is necessary to notify the Housing Office and the Department of Economic Protection. Representatives of these organizations are required to visit the apartment, conduct an inspection and confirm that it is impossible to restore the old radiator and it needs to be replaced.

It may happen that during repairs or for other reasons, residents decided to replace old heating radiators with more modern ones. modern models. In this case, the owner must be ready to undergo approval measures. Without agreement management company and documents confirming this fact, batteries cannot be replaced.

Representatives of the above organization must take part in the work process, otherwise such actions threaten a number of problems.

IN First of all, the parameters of the heating system of the whole house may change. In addition, in order to install a new radiator, it is necessary to close the entire riser, and this action can only be done by employees of the management company. If you do this yourself, the violator may face a considerable fine. But you also need to know temperature regime, which will directly affect how much heat the device will give off, and, accordingly, the favorable microclimate in the room.

After completing all the documents, you can purchase necessary elements and devices. Next, the installation date is agreed upon, in accordance with which the work is carried out. Our specialists will help you properly connect, configure and run your heating system.

Preparatory work

Before starting installation work heating devices, you need to clarify the type of wiring by which the system is organized. This determines which parts and in what quantities will be required during the installation process. The work site should be prepared, as well as the necessary tools.

The first thing to start with is blocking the riser. If there are old batteries, they need to be disconnected, drained of all water, and then disconnected from the heating system.

If necessary, you should use a pump, which can be used to remove as much liquid as possible from the radiator.

When the coolant is removed, you should determine the places where the heating element will be attached. Next, the brackets are installed. You will need 2 or 3 of them to secure the top of the battery, as well as a pair to hold the bottom. The location of the brackets must be checked using a special level. After this, the site can be considered ready for work.

Installation

After preparatory work completed, you can start direct installation heating devices that need to be placed on brackets. If the installation of the brackets is done correctly, the rear wall of the radiator will fit closely to the supports and will be securely fixed to them. When installing the battery itself, you need to take into account that it is necessary to maintain a slight slope, which will be about 3 millimeters per 1 meter of the heating device.

The batteries are installed, pipes and fittings are connected to them, and all this is carefully secured. How well the work is carried out will determine how tight the system will be. Next, you can open the riser and fill it with water. This will allow you to check how tight the connections are.

When installing heating devices with your own hands, you need to pay attention Special attention installation of shut-off and control elements. The installation of a Mayevsky crane is mandatory, because it is he who will subsequently play the main role when bleeding air at the beginning heating season. The element should be located near the highest point.

When working with a one-pipe system, it is necessary to install a bypass, which has a valve, in contrast to a two-pipe system, when the connection occurs only with the discharge, which also has a valve. The bends are attached to the pipes using torque wrenches. Such keys are not included in the kit; when installing a radiator, specialists bring this tool with them. If the work is carried out independently, you will need to buy keys, since the work cannot be completed without them. This element ensures reliable tightening of fasteners.

Required tools and materials

No construction or installation process impossible to implement without a certain set of tools and devices. In this case, you need to know what is needed to install a heating radiator. Most often the same set is used, with some exceptions.

For example, aluminum and bimetallic radiators are installed in the same way, but cast iron batteries- according to a different scheme. They require the use of larger plugs, and the Mayevsky valve is replaced with an automatic air vent, installing it at the highest point of the system. Steel panel-type radiators have metal arms and are equipped with brackets for hanging.

Air release devices

Air always accumulates in heating radiators, which must be released periodically. On aluminum and bimetallic radiators For this purpose, Mayevsky cranes are installed. Most often it is located on the free upper manifold. This device is slightly smaller in size than the outlet, so an additional adapter is installed, which comes complete with the tap. When choosing a Mayevsky tap, you should focus on the diameter of the collector.

In addition to this device, automatic air vents are used, which are also suitable for installation on radiators. However automatic devices They are large in size, and their body can only be brass or nickel plated. Therefore, such a device does not look very attractive on white enameled radiators. This greatly reduces the demand for automatic air vents.

Stubs

Radiators with side connections have four outlets. The heating system pipeline is connected to two of them, the Mayevsky tap is most often installed on the third, and the fourth outlet is closed with a plug. This item does not spoil appearance modern battery, as it is painted with white enamel.

Locking elements

When installing batteries in an apartment, you will definitely need taps. They can be ball or shut-off; the second option allows you to regulate heat transfer. The taps are located at the pipeline inlet to the radiator and at its outlet. Ball Valves allow you to disconnect the battery from the general system in case of emergency repair or replacement during the heating season. In this case, the supply of coolant to the battery is stopped without affecting the operation of the entire system. Ball valves have a relatively low price, which gives them big advantage before similar devices. However, with their help it is impossible to regulate the heat transfer of the heating device, which is a negative characteristic of the device.

Shut-off control valves shut off the water supply to the radiator at in case of emergency, and at the same time allow you to change the intensity of the coolant flow. In addition, such devices look more attractive and have two configurations, straight and angular. This makes it possible to make the binding more accurate. But it is worth considering that the cost of shut-off control valves is several points higher than the price of ball valves.

In some cases, when using ball valves, thermostats are installed. They can be electronic, automatic and mechanical. Using this device you can change the heat dissipation of the battery. But it should be remembered that these devices can only reduce the flow, therefore, there is no need to install such a device on poorly heating radiators.

Additional tools and materials

For radiator models wall type You should purchase hooks or brackets, the number of which is selected depending on the number of sections of the heating device:

• If the number of sections does not exceed 8, and the length is less than 1.2 meters, then the device is attached at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom.
• Each next 5-6 sections require additional fastening.

In addition, in the process of deciding how to install a heating radiator yourself, you will need linen winding and plumbing paste, with the help of which the tightness of the connections is ensured. You should also take care of the presence of a drill, drill bits and level. Dowels may come in handy. In addition, it is necessary to purchase or rent equipment for connecting pipes and fittings.

Choosing an installation location

Before installing a heating radiator in an apartment, it is important to correctly determine its location. In most cases, heating devices are placed under the window so that the warm flow prevents cold from entering the room from the window opening. The width of the heating radiator should be 70-75 percent of the width of the window, in this case the glass will fog up less.

There are certain rules for installing heating batteries in an apartment under a window:

• The device must be located exactly in the middle with an error of no more than 2 cm.
• The distance from the floor to the heating device can be from 8 to 12 cm.
• A clearance of 10-12 cm is required between the window sill and the radiator.
• A gap of 2-5 cm should be left between the wall and the back of the device.

Compliance with these rules will allow warm air circulate normally in the room, providing effective heating.

Rules for installing heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators under a window must be carried out in compliance with certain rules:

• Before starting installation work, it is necessary to level the wall, this will make the installation process much easier.
• Then mark the middle of the window opening on the wall.
• Then measure 10-12 cm from the window sill and carry out horizontal line, it will serve as a guide for aligning the top edge of the radiator.
• The installation of brackets is carried out in different ways, so you should learn how to install radiators correctly. If the heating system has a circulation pump, then the radiator should be positioned strictly horizontally. For radiators in a system with natural coolant movement, it is necessary to make a slope of 1% along the flow of water. A higher level of slope can cause stagnation.

Wall mounting methods

Higher listed rules important to consider when installing fasteners. To fix the hook in the wall, you need to drill a hole, insert a plastic dowel into it and screw the fastener into it. This device allows you to easily adjust the distance from the radiator to the wall; you just need to screw in or unscrew the hook.

When installing heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, it is important to understand how the load from the radiator is distributed on the hooks. The weight of the device is mainly supported by the upper fasteners, the lower hook only fixes the device in the desired position. To ensure that nothing interferes with hanging the radiator, the lower fasteners are placed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the level of the lower outlet of the heating device.

The radiator bracket is installed according to a different scheme. Before installing the heating radiator, it is applied to the wall. Then mark the places where the brackets are planned to be installed. Putting the radiator aside, attach the bracket to the wall and mark its attachment points. Holes are made in the marked places, dowels are inserted into them, and the bracket is fixed to the wall using screws. After installing all the fasteners, the radiator is installed in place.

Installation of underfloor heating devices

Despite the light weight aluminum radiators, sometimes it’s not possible to hang them on the wall. For example, on walls covered with plasterboard sheets, or made of lightweight concrete, it is not recommended to hang any structures without additional support. Some models of cast iron and steel heating appliances are equipped with legs, but their appearance is not always aesthetically pleasing.

Bimetallic and aluminum radiators can be installed on the floor using special brackets. They are fixed on the floor, a radiator is installed and, using special device fix the lower battery outlet on the bracket. Floor mounts can be fixed or adjustable height. Such fasteners are fixed on the floor using nails or dowels.

Connecting heating devices

To solve the question of how to install a heating battery and connect it to the pipeline of the general system, use the following methods:

• Saddle connection.
• One-way connection of heating batteries.
• Diagonal connection.

If radiators with bottom connections are selected for installation, then the issue is resolved simply. The manufacturer himself determines the location of the supply and return pipes and requires unquestioning implementation of the recommendations. Otherwise, heating efficiency is not guaranteed.

When solving the problem of how to add a heating battery in an apartment, you should know that radiators with side connections can be installed using the above methods.

One way connection

This type of connection can be used in single-pipe or two-pipe systems. Since in most apartments the system is made of metal pipes, then you should consider a harness for this option. To work you will need the following elements:

• Ball valves in the amount of 2 pieces.
• 2 tees.
• 2 drives, these parts have external thread from both ends.

The connection of elements is carried out according to a certain scheme. For a single-pipe system, the mandatory installation of a bypass jumper is required, which will allow you to shut off the coolant supply to the radiator in unforeseen situations. Installing a tap on the bypass is strictly prohibited, as it blocks the movement of coolant along the riser.

If you have welding equipment and the skills to work with it, the bypass jumper can be welded. Two-pipe system can be assembled without a bypass. In this case, the supply pipe is connected to the upper manifold, the return pipe to the lower outlet. Cranes are installed in any case.

The tightness of the connections is achieved through the use of linen winding and plumbing paste applied on top of it. The amount of winding must be controlled, since its excess can lead to the formation of microcracks on the body of the connected elements, which threatens subsequent destruction. Such caution should be observed when connecting elements made of all materials except cast iron products.

Diagonal connection

At diagonal connection heating devices, you can obtain the most efficient heat transfer. With lower wiring, the connection process looks quite simple: coolant is supplied to the upper inlet on one side, which comes out on the other side at the bottom.

This design looks more aesthetically pleasing, which cannot be said about a single-pipe system with a vertical riser. However, knowing how to properly install a heating radiator, you can achieve high heating efficiency with this option.

When deciding how to install heating radiators correctly, you should know that when connecting a radiator to a single-pipe system, installing a bypass is required.

Saddle connection

This option for connecting radiators to the heating system is more suitable for lower pipe distribution or when they are hidden.

Installation on a single pipe system can be done with or without a bypass jumper. If there is no bypass, installation of taps is necessary. Their presence will allow you to remove the radiator in the event of an accident and replace it with a drain.

The use of saddle connections for radiators with vertical wiring is considered ineffective, since heat loss in this case can reach 15%.

Knowledge of the nuances of competently carrying out the installation process of heating radiators will provide reliable, high-quality and durable heating premises.

At self-installation batteries, it is important to follow the installation rules and SNiP standards.

General rules for installing batteries yourself

Applicable to all batteries, regardless of type:

• must be done calculation of the amount of coolant, which the battery can accommodate;
• water V heating system overlaps, then the pipes are purged using a pump;
• availability is required torque wrenches;

Attention! Tighten and secure parts at your own discretion unacceptable! The circulating fluid is under pressure, so improper fastening of parts leads to unpleasant consequences.

• initially thought out and selected suitable connection option batteries;
• radiators are mounted at a certain angle to prevent the accumulation of air masses in them, otherwise they will have to be removed through an air vent;
• in private homes it is recommended to use pipes made from metal-plastic, in apartments - from metal;
• protective film removed from new heating devices only after installation is completed.

Stages of installing a heating radiator in an apartment with your own hands

Installation consists of next stages.

Preparing tools

You will need:

Choosing the right place

• the location of the heating device is selected in the center of the window opening;

Important! The battery must cover at least 70% of the opening. The middle is marked, and from it the lengths are laid out to the right and left and marks are made for fastenings.

• floor clearance not less than 8 cm and not more than 14 cm;
• To prevent the thermal power indicator from sinking, the battery must be located at a distance from the window sill about 11 cm;
• from the back of the radiator to the wall not less than 5 cm, such a distance will ensure good heat convection.

More accurate indentations are calculated by carefully selecting a specific type of battery and calculating the number of sections.

Preparing for connection

Examine the walls for possible defects. If there gaps and cracks, they are filled cement mortar . After drying, the foil insulation is fixed.

The variety of wall finishing options is quite extensive.

Selecting a connection diagram

Exists 3 connection options radiators for the heating system:

• bottom method, fastening is made at the bottom of the heating source, on its different sides;
• lateral (one-sided) connection, most often used with a vertical type of wiring with entry into one of the sides of the battery;
• diagonal connection implies the location of the supply pipe on top of the battery, and the return pipe on the opposite side from the bottom.

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Process description

Subsequence:

Reference! At this stage, you can install as an additional element thermostats, allowing you to control coolant flow.

• fixing the radiator to brackets;
• accession outlet and supply pipes performed using threading, welding, pressing and crimping;
• control assembled system: water is supplied under weak pressure to check for possible leaks and assembly flaws.

How to properly install different types of radiators

The installation of each type of battery has its own nuances.

Cast iron

The difference from the standard circuit is that for batteries of this type sections are initially formed using a radiator key.

Nipples are impregnated with drying oil and fixed manually for 2 threads. In this case, a gasket must be used. Then the radiator keys are inserted into the nipple holes and tightened.

Important! The collection of sections must be carried out with an assistant, since simultaneous rotation of nipples may lead to misalignment.

After crimping the battery, a layer of primer is applied to it and painted.

Aluminum

Passes according to the standard scheme of one of three options connections.

The only caveat is that aluminum batteries are fixed both on the wall and on the floor. For the last option use special clamping rings on the legs.

By adjusting the distances of the radiator from the wall, floor and window sill, you can increase or decrease the level of heat transfer from the battery.

When installing aluminum heating sources refer to the attached instructions. If the recommendations indicate the use of coolant, then you should use it exclusively.

Mounting the screen in front of the radiator will increase the degree of efficiency.

Such batteries are suitable for installation in private homes with autonomous heating.

Steel

Important point in connection - horizontal check batteries. Any deviation will reduce work efficiency.

In addition to wall brackets, they are used floor stands for additional fixation.

Otherwise, standard connection diagrams are used.

Bimetallic

In such batteries it is allowed building up or removing unnecessary sections. They are already painted. The sections are pulled together in stages from below and from above, without distortions.

Attention! The area where the sealing gasket under the nipple is located must not be stripped. sandpaper or file.

As with the standard scheme, pre-treatment of the wall is required.

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