Today the simplest and in a fast way To make the walls of your home beautiful and smooth, decorate them with MDF panels. This solution is, of course, not suitable for all rooms, but for corridors, stairwells, storage rooms and hallways, this material will be almost ideal. We will talk about it in this article, in which, together with the site, we will look at how installation is carried out mdf panels frame and frameless way with your own hands.
There are two ways to fix MDF panels on the walls - the so-called adhesive and frame. Both of these methods are good and are used depending on the circumstances. If finishing walls with MDF panels involves hiding any communications, then frame method MDF fastenings. If we are talking about finishing smooth walls, then the adhesive method is used.
Wall decoration with MDF panels photo
Installation of MDF panels: frame installation method
The very name of this method speaks for itself - to implement it you will need to build a frame, which in some way resembles the structure that is used for. The difference lies only in the position of the load-bearing ones - if they are installed vertically to fasten plasterboard sheets, then MDF provides for a horizontal arrangement of profiles. In this regard, the peculiarities of constructing such a frame arise.
In principle, at the first stage everything happens in a similar way - the plane of the future frame is hammered out, then guide profiles are attached along the perimeter of the wall, on the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. This is where the differences begin. Vertical to a given plane load-bearing profiles cd are installed not every 600mm, but every 3000mm, which is the standard length of the supporting profile.
Installation of MDF panels: frame method
This is done in order to subsequently install horizontal load-bearing profiles cd between them, the pitch of which is 500 mm. They are connected to vertical profiles using crab CD connectors, and fixed to the wall with the same U-shaped brackets.
Installation of the frame is the main work in the process of installing MDF panels. The fastening itself is an easier process that almost anyone can handle. MDF panels are attached to the frame using clamps (special clamps). Before fastening it to the frame, the clamp itself is inserted into a groove located at the end of the panel, thus ensuring their reliable fixation to the frame. The clamps are designed so that they do not interfere with inserting the next panel into the groove.
DIY installation of MDF panels photo
Installing panels with glue yourself: installation features
MDF installation Installing panels on walls using glue is much easier - the entire installation process is greatly simplified by the absence of a metal or wooden frame, the construction of which takes quite a lot of time.
Installation wall panels mdf photo
Before we begin directly attaching the panels, let’s first look at the glue that is used for these purposes. Or any glue will not work here - you need a composition that has certain qualities.
- Firstly, the glue must be plastic even after hardening - the fact is that MDF panels made from pressed cardboard are highly susceptible to deformation depending on the temperature and humidity in the room. Therefore, an adhesive is needed that can dampen these same temperature expansions.
- Secondly, the adhesive used for MDF panels should facilitate their fastening even in places where the walls are slightly curved. That is, the texture of the glue should make it possible to spread it like thin layer, and thick - in a word, it should be thick enough. These requirements perfectly fit the so-called “”, which are successfully used by almost all craftsmen to solve the problem of how to install MDF panels.
Liquid nails for mounting MDF panels photo
The installation of panels using glue itself looks quite simple - its technology is almost completely described on a tube of “Liquid Nails” glue. It is not recommended to violate it. To begin with, the walls covered with panels must be cleaned of dust and dirt - in principle, if you are going to seriously engage in self-repair, then the priming process, which is performed to clean the walls from dust and dirt, and at the same time to improve the adhesion of materials, should become a habit. They always prime everything, everywhere.
Priming walls before installing MDF panels photo
After the primer has dried, the actual gluing of the panels begins. While it dries, you can do other preparations - for example, cut several dozen panels to size.
The glue is applied directly to the panel itself in a dotted manner and in a checkerboard pattern - the glue drops should be large. Once the adhesive has been applied, the panel is pressed against the wall, tapped firmly and torn off. This is required by gluing technology - you need to tear off the panel so that the glue is weathered and the panel does not peel off from the wall under its own weight. To speed up the process and make installing MDF panels with your own hands faster, you can immediately, one after another, smear up to a dozen panels, attach them to the wall and tear them off. While the glue is weathering, you are allowed to take a smoke break - after five minutes, the panels can be hung on the wall again and thoroughly slammed down.
How to glue MDF panels to the wall photo
It is easy to glue the panels; it is much more difficult to trim them evenly and accurately. In this regard Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to slopes and similar obstacles that come across the installation path of MDF panels. It should be understood that the even cutting of the panels completely depends appearance premises.
Installation of MDF panels on walls
Well, in conclusion, we will dwell on the main installation nuances that are typical for both methods of fastening MDF panels.
- First, there are the angles. It should be understood that it will not be possible to bend MDF panels, so they are simply cut as close to the corner as possible, after which the cut edges are safely overlapped with a special corner, which can be used for both external and internal corners.
- Secondly, this is the frame - the lowest horizontal profile should lie on the floor. In this way you will ensure reliable fastening skirting boards.
- Thirdly, to avoid misalignment in the future, the first panel must be installed in accordance with the vertical level and firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in places where they will subsequently overlap (at the bottom of the baseboard, at the top of the ceiling, in the corner decorative overlay). It is advisable to check the position of the panels with a level in the future - you don’t need to check everything in a row, but you need to apply it to every fifth panel.
That's basically it. This is how MDF panels are installed. This process is neither complicated nor simple, like, in general, any finishing work, wherein important role plays your attitude to the little things, which together have an impact on the overall picture of the repair. Simply put, there are no trifles in this matter.
Wall or ceiling cladding different rooms, including loggias, is often performed using MDF panels. This material does not require a large number of components; its installation technology is quite simple. The range is represented by different types of panels, which differ in size, shade and texture.
More details about MDF material
To make a final decision for yourself which wall covering is best for DIY installation in certain conditions, it is necessary to study information about the material: structure, properties, scope of application.
Dimensions, characteristics
MDF is a material made from carefully crushed wood (sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste). Wood dust is exposed to high temperatures and pressed. Bonding agent in in this case paraffin and lignin appear.
Surface cladding is carried out with sheets and panels of different dimensions: length varies from 900 to 3660 mm; width from 150 to 2070 mm; thickness from 1.8 to 60 mm. Most formats are non-standard, which allows you to choose the right option.
The standard length dimensions are 2.6 m. Less common material is 2.4 m long, as well as 2.7 m. The value of the width parameter varies greatly: from 0.15 to 2.07 m.
Main characteristics:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Excellent strength properties;
- Long-term operation;
- High-quality panel surface;
- Soundproofing properties.
Where is it used?
MDF is used in construction (cladding walls, ceilings, doors), furniture production, automotive industry. For installation on loggias, a material is required that is resistant to temperature changes, humidity and ultraviolet radiation. MDF satisfies these criteria, especially moisture-resistant sheet panels.
Preparing for work
Cladding the surfaces of the walls and ceiling of the loggia is carried out in several stages, the first of which is the preparation of the material. Sheet panels are transferred to the balcony so that they acquire the desired level of humidity. This will avoid deformation of the MDF.
Tool
- Hammer;
- Screwdriver;
- Roulette
- Hacksaw for woodworking, metal scissors;
- Level.
Consumables you will need are wood screws, clamps and galvanized corners. And, polyurethane foam, sealant. Auxiliary materials
Balcony finishing with MDF panels is carried out using components and materials:
- Any insulation from a number of existing ones (mineral wool, penofol, penoplex, etc.);
- Fasteners (nails, screws, clamps);
- Primers for different materials(concrete, wood);
- Accessories for MDF;
- Wooden beams or special profiles for gypsum boards for lathing.
Room measurements and MDF calculation
Finishing walls and flows with your own hands requires taking accurate measurements of the room. First of all, you need to determine the length and height of the walls. The number of panels can be determined by drawing up a diagram of their best location on the wall.
In this case, you need to form a pattern, and there should be as few seams as possible. The number of bars/profiles for the sheathing is determined based on the dimensions of the wall and a sketch that takes into account the distance between the guides (50 cm). The dimensions of the bars are selected taking into account surface unevenness (25x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 30-50 mm).
Step-by-step panel installation technology
Lathing allows you to create more robust construction. The advantage of this solution is that there is no need to specially level the surface of the walls. But the crumbling base (concrete, plaster) must be treated special composition which will strengthen it. For wood, other means are used - antiseptics.
Step 1: Selecting the type of frame and its installation
There are two types of lathing: from wooden planks And metal profile for gypsum boards. The first option will be cheaper, but it is susceptible to exposure to a humid environment. For this reason, it is better to install such a frame on a loggia that is well insulated. The metal counterpart is stronger and can withstand any operating conditions.
The distance between the two slats should be 40-50 centimeters. The bottom rail is attached at a distance of approximately 3-5 cm from the floor. Procedure for installing the sheathing:
- The highest point of unevenness is determined, this is where the first plank needs to be attached;
- On the remaining surface of the wall you will have to lay edged material;
- If the wall is flat, the installation of horizontal guides is carried out from below, after which they install top bar, and then the crossbars;
- The distance from the floor and ceiling is 3-5 cm.
The wooden frame is fastened using dowel-nails and self-tapping screws. For metal, anchors and metal screws are used.
Step 2: Installation of thermal insulation
Insulation is laid between the sheathing strips. Its thickness must correspond to the height of the frame, otherwise the sheet panels will be deformed. For installation between the sheathing guides, almost any insulation is used: mineral wool, penoplex, foam plastic.
The insulation should be located over the entire surface of the wall, including under the sheathing belts. Otherwise, heat loss on the balcony can be up to 40%. The insulation is simply placed in the cells of the frame. If sheet panels are glued to the surface of the walls, thermal insulation with increased strength is used.
Step 3: Attaching the MDF
Finishing the balcony with MDF panels is carried out using different types of fasteners: self-tapping screws, clamps, installation with glue. If an adhesive is used, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant materials that are also universal and suitable for attaching the material to different types surfaces (concrete, plaster).
Detailed step-by-step instruction The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Alignment of loggia walls;
- Thorough cleaning and degreasing;
- Primer;
- Applying glue.
For attaching MDF to wooden frame wood screws are used. They are installed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the edge of the panel. This will allow you to hide the screw heads under the corners and baseboards.
Step 4: Connection and fastening to clamps
On the tenon side, MDF is secured with self-tapping screws. If the panel rests on the corner of the wall, the connecting element must be cut off. The next panel is attached not only by snapping into the groove, but also by using glue. The connecting element is glued. The clamps also securely fix the sheet panels.
A clamp is attached to the side of the MDF panel where the groove is located. Next, it is fixed with self-tapping screws on the rail. When moving to another wall, the material is cut at 45 degrees (from the groove side), the next panel is cut at 45 degrees from the tenon side. The last panel is rounded at the end.
Slope finishing
MDF can be installed along and across the slope. The preferred option is determined by its width. For a narrow slope, it is better to choose a transverse installation of the material. For the purpose of finishing corner areas and cracks, special corners, profiles, and plinths have been created. With their help you can hide any leaks. The components are cut and installed using adhesive.
So the finishing MDF ceiling panels or other surface (walls, slopes, parapet) is made different ways: with glue, with self-tapping screws, nails and with lathing. The first option is the least reliable and requires maximum effort: leveling the walls of the loggia, cleaning, degreasing, priming
Beautiful and smooth walls– the key to an effective renovation. In modern decoration there are a great variety of types and methods of finishing. And MDF panels are one of them. When choosing a finishing material for decorating walls, the question of cost-effectiveness, ease of installation and ease of operation always arises.
Along with paints, plastic, wallpaper and other materials, wall covering with MDF panels is also worthy of attention. I will talk about this relatively new finishing method in this article.
Probably many of you have encountered the fact that when updating the interior of an apartment, you really don’t want to bother with the long preparation of the walls, cleaning a large amount of construction waste, and especially spending a lot of money on repairs. When there is no opportunity or desire to bother with painting or wallpapering, you can get by with wall coverings. This method allows you to level and decorate the surface in one fell swoop.
The wall is beautifully covered with many different materials. And this is not only drywall or plastic, but also MDF panels. Working with them is excellent in terms of speed and relative ease of installation. They look much richer than plastic ones, are more convenient in size and are just as easy to use in the future.
MDF panel is a board of pressed wood fibers impregnated with binding materials. Such a plate may not be covered with anything on top, or it may be covered with a layer of special film and a thin layer of plastic. This is very environmentally friendly material, having all the properties necessary to create structures. The panel can be washed, it is quite durable and safe.
As for color and appearance, I want to say that today manufacturers offer quite wide choose colors that imitate different kinds wood, as well as bright and pastel monochrome options. So covering walls with MDF panels can easily cope with any problem. design solutions. The size and shape of the panel can also be different.
These can be square slabs from 300 x 300 mm to 980 x 980 mm. There are slatted panels up to 300 mm wide and 3 m long. Such panels are very similar to lining and look good on the wall and ceiling. If you need to sew up a large area at once or use custom size, then sheets measuring mainly 1220×2440 mm will help out.
All options are generally up to 25 mm in thickness. This helps a lot to solve the problem with sound insulation. Therefore, MDF is definitely worth paying attention to when choosing materials for cladding.
The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively low moisture resistance. Therefore, they are suitable for finishing not all rooms. A chipboard panel is used only in dry rooms, such as a hallway, and a fiberboard panel is used in rooms with moderate humidity, such as a kitchen.
Sheathing - instructions step by step
I will tell you in detail how to cover walls with MDF panels. The process of installing wall panels is quite simple and does not involve complex wall preparation. They can be attached to a prepared frame, at the same time leveling the wall, or you can use glue when the wall does not require additional transformations.
In any case, no matter what method you choose, you need to take into account several nuances. Before starting work, the panel must undergo some acclimatization. To do this, it is enough to hold it in the room being repaired so that a balance of temperature and humidity is established between the panel itself and the air. MDF is returning to normal and some expansion is taking place.
Before installation, the wall, as already mentioned, does not require special preparation. It is enough to clean areas with obvious waste old paint or plaster to get rid of cracks.
When installing panels, you must remember their physical properties and leave small gaps at the bottom and top. A few millimeters are enough. This is necessary to take into account their normal expansion with changes in temperature and humidity in the room. Otherwise, over time the panel may warp or warp.
On the frame
When choosing frame installation, you will need profiles or wooden slats. When choosing fastening materials, you should pay attention to the complexity of the wall itself. You may need to navigate around many corners or ledges.
In this case, it is better to use mounting profiles (various additional elements), since their wide variety will allow you to do the work as accurately as possible, especially in the case of corners. However, if for some reason you decide to do without additional elements, this is also not a problem. All joints and corners can then be closed using a universal corner.
This applies not only to the frame, but also to the adhesive installation method. So, you need to install two skirting profiles (also called moldings) running perpendicular to the facing slab. This means that if the panel is mounted vertically, then the profiles are placed horizontally (near the floor and ceiling).
In horizontal direction mdf boards, the profiles are installed in a vertical position at the corners of the wall. In case of fastening sheet panels large area, this question is not so fundamental. After installing the first profile, using a plumb line or building level determine the position of the second extreme profile. Next, using the same plumb line or level, secure several more intermediate profiles at a distance of approximately 500-600 mm.
If sudden changes in the surface do not allow you to attach the profile to a level, then you can place it under it various materials. These can be wooden slats, fiberboard, plywood.
Intermediate profiles are necessary to ensure that the future panel does not bend under hand pressure. Therefore, adjust their number based on the area and evenness of the surface to be sewn and the thickness of the panel itself. The panel is pre-cut to size, taking into account the required gaps. If the cladding is made using slatted panels with a groove and a tail, then a J-profile is usually used as a molding, into which the first panel is inserted.
The tail is trimmed and inserted into the profile on three sides - one side and two ends. The side with the groove remains free. It must be attached to the sheathing or directly to the wall. The next panel is driven into the groove with its tail, and the side with the groove is also screwed to the sheathing. This is how all the panels are assembled.
The latter is trimmed around the edges by about 5 mm and first driven into the second molding. After the stop, it is enough to move it a little in reverse side before entering the previous groove. When using other types of panels, they are attached joint to joint.
It is very important to trim the edges evenly so that the joints are even. It is better to trim thick panels using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The panels can be fastened to the sheathing with ordinary self-tapping screws or using special clips and clamps.
The latter option is especially progressive and convenient, since in this case the panel does not have holes and is simply fastened to the sheathing. Also, this method does not interfere with the elongation of the panel under the influence of moisture and temperature, and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled. At this point the paneling is finished and your wall looks even, smooth and beautiful.
On glue
The adhesive method of fastening allows you to do without installing the sheathing. The preparation of the wall remains the same. Even if the wall was painted oil paint, it is not necessary to delete it. Modern adhesive mixtures I penetrate deep enough and allow you to do without this process.
The panels can also be glued to the sheathing. This option is relevant when the wall is very uneven and additional slats have to be installed to reach the required level. MDF glue is applied over the entire surface of the panel in the form of zigzag stripes.
MDF panels - excellent decorative finishing material, which is characterized by high installation speed and the absence of the need for “wet” work at all stages of finishing.
The panels also have their drawbacks (for example, MDF, like any wood, is afraid of water and high humidity, less resistant to mechanical damage compared to synthetic materials, work to restore damage to it is associated with a number of difficulties, etc.).
Fastening MDF panels depends on the type of base and the desired result. The most common type of fastening is mechanical (on the base, a frame is often equipped with wooden or metal guides, to which MDF panels are attached using nails, screws or clamps) and chemical - using adhesive compositions.
The latter method assumes a flat monolithic base, since in this case there is no frame made of profiles or guides.
Glue for MDF - review of the best options
The most commonly used adhesives for MDF panels are:
- Liquid Nails . A universal adhesive characterized by high adhesion, resistance to corrosion and moisture. Liquid nails do not react with substrates, unlike deep-penetrating glue.
- Polyurethane (or construction) foam. Characterized by various properties such as thermal insulation, sound insulation and high adhesion.
- Universal construction adhesive. A wide group of products, divided into many segments and areas of application. For MDF panels, it is necessary to use only those adhesives that provide adhesion to the base materials (brick, concrete, plasterboard, tiles, etc.) and wood (MDF consists of fine sawdust).
The most popular adhesive for MDF panels is liquid nails (TYTAN or TITEBOND Multi).
In addition to the economic effect when choosing an adhesive, you need to take into account the specifics of working with it (time for initial fixation, final drying time, method of application, service life, necessary tool and materials, etc.).
Installation of MDF panels with glue - instructions
Let's consider the technology for installing MDF using the adhesive compositions indicated above.
Liquid Nails(similar to— universal construction adhesives). The thickness of the adhesive layer is only 3-5 mm, so the base on which the panels will be glued must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, the panels will follow all the unevenness of the walls or peel off in places where they do not fit tightly.
Therefore, before gluing MDF panels to the wall, it must be leveled.
- Degrease the surface, remove all dirt, and fill the crumbling areas with putty.
- Before starting work, you need to make sure there are no irregularities using building regulations, long level or other tool.
- The glue is applied in wave-like movements or in another way (for example, pointwise in large drops) so that it is evenly distributed over the width and length of the panel. The pitch between the adhesive strips determines the force with which the panel will adhere to the base. That is, for example, when installing in places of greatest load, the frequency of application can be increased. Usually this is 10-15 cm. If the manufacturer determines the waiting time before gluing, it is necessary to maintain the required pause.
- Using a construction bubble or laser level launch pad installed at the desired angle (depending on the intended pattern and installation direction). Most often used vertical installation panels. You should start from the corner.
- The glue on the first panel must have time to set to the base before installing subsequent ones (the same principle applies to other difficult places adjacencies, for example, internal or external corners). Setting time depends on the type of glue (see instructions).
- Thanks to the tongue-and-groove connection, subsequent panels can be installed without waiting (except for the waiting time before gluing).
Corners (internal or external), as well as horizontal and vertical joints without a tongue-and-groove connection are closed decorative moldings(universal MDF corners). The glue should be applied to the middle of each side decorative corner(so that when pressing, excess glue does not come out).
The main thing is not to damage the decorative layer of the panels.
Option 2. Polyurethane foam.
Installation technology for MDF panels using construction foam is in many ways similar to installation technology using liquid nails or universal glue, with the only difference that the error of wall unevenness using foam can be higher due to a significant increase in foam volume.
The waiting time before gluing the MDF panel to the base depends on the requirements of the foam manufacturer.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Basic installation errors
For liquid nails:
- Do not overexpose the glue before installing the panel on the base. Otherwise, adhesion will be significantly lower.
- Incorrect application of glue - MDF panels will lose their attractive appearance if glue gets on the decorative front surface.
- Wiping off excess glue with a heavily dampened rag may cause the decorative coating to peel off.
For polyurethane foam:
- For gluing, use foam with a low shrinkage coefficient and professional tool(high-quality guns for construction foam can smoothly and strictly dose regulate its supply).
- If you do not wait for the first panel to set, then when subsequent panels move, the foam may collapse and not be fixed to the base.
Question: why can’t you glue MDF onto liquid nails?
Liquid nails glue is distinguished by its versatility. It is suitable for installation large number various building materials. And if “wood” is included in the list of materials to be glued, then liquid nails are not only possible, but also must be used for gluing MDF panels.
Often, ordinary people can confuse “liquid nails” glue with sealants or silicones (they are applied using the same tool, the tube is very similar to the tube of liquid nails and in the store they can be on the same shelf).
However, sealants for gluing MDF panels are not recommended, since their main purpose is to fix plumbing products and seal seams.
When finishing walls a large number of It takes time to level the surface. Therefore, for those who wish to carry out major renovations or make a new department after the construction of the facility, it is very important to simplify this task. One of the most common materials for leveling is plasterboard. However, it cannot provide high structural strength, and must also be replaced after removing the adhesive-based decorative trim. A more advantageous material in this situation is MDF. It is made with applied decorative layer or without it, leaving you to create your own colors. Decorating walls with MDF panels with your own hands is quite simple and does not require special skills or abilities in carrying out facing work.
Installation technology
MDF panels have various shapes in the form of square, rectangular or stacked slatted slabs. Therefore, at the first stage it is necessary to decide on the most suitable dimensions, as well as the type of decorative finishing. If you plan to do the work yourself without outside help, then it is better to choose those that are smaller in size. If it is necessary to reduce the time required for work, large panels are used.
Before installation work it is necessary to lay out the panels indoors so that they can purchase normal humidity. This will prevent the formation of cracks at the joints or the appearance of mechanical stress. When the temperature changes by 300C, the elongation can be up to 10 mm. Walls need to be in mandatory treat with special impregnations. They destroy harmful microorganisms and do not allow them to develop further.
MDF is mounted on a wooden or metal profile sheathing. This allows not only to create a strong and reliable design, and also ensure ventilation of the main wall material. Wooden sheathing is more common, since its properties are close to MDF, and it is also relatively cheap. However, if the bars have not been dried in a natural way, then during operation they can bend, and the MDF sheet in best case scenario move away, and at worst, get damaged. Due to the fact that the wall may become damp, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer. As a result, mold and mildew will not form in the niche. Additionally, you can lay a thermal insulation layer to increase the energy efficiency of the room. Usually mineral wool mats or polystyrene foam are laid.
If the main walls are initially flat, then you can refuse to install the sheathing, choosing to mount it on an adhesive base. The amount of deviation from evenness should be no more than 3 mm/m2. In addition, with this installation method it will not be possible to install a thermal insulation layer.
If you attach MDF to a metal profile with your own hands, you will need to purchase additional special fasteners. They are specially shaped end switches and connectors that snap quickly and reliably, resulting in the panels being securely fastened.
We calculate the quantity of materials
The first step is to measure the length and width of the walls using a tape measure. It is worth doing this for each of them, since they may differ slightly in size. After this, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing. Draw a sketch on paper in accordance with the scale, and then evenly place the slats in a horizontal or vertical position. In this case, the distance between them is kept the same within 40-50 cm, taking into account the tight fit of the upper and bottom slats to the floor and ceiling. The panels are installed perpendicular to the guides.
The cross-section of the wooden beams of the sheathing is selected taking into account the magnitude of the maximum unevenness of the wall, as well as the need to ensure sufficient structural strength. Therefore, in the case of wooden bars, the cross-section must be at least 25x40 mm, and for a metal profile with a shelf width of 20 mm and a steel thickness of 2 mm.
The number of MDF panels is determined taking into account their size and the best location along the walls in order to reduce the amount of excess. However, do not forget about observing the pattern when choosing panels with decorative finishes. The stock quantity of material must be at least 20% of the total quantity.
We carry out preparatory work
If construction or dismantling work was carried out before installation of MDF panels, then it is necessary to remove dirt and also wipe dust from the walls. If there are problem areas on the wall that are peeling or cracking, you need to determine how reliable they are and whether the sheathing will fall off during installation. To do this, just tap them with a hammer.
Before attaching MDF wall panels to an adhesive base, it is necessary to determine the degree of deviation of the surface from a perfectly smooth surface. The simplest, but inaccurate method is to shine a flashlight from the corners of the wall and determine where shadows are created. Then, using a tape measure, you need to roughly measure their size. If deviations are more than 4 mm, you will have to perform partial leveling or install sheathing. You will also need to sand off the old finish with an abrasive material.
After this, the surface of the walls is treated antiseptic impregnations. While they are drying, you need to use a laser level to determine the places for attaching the sheathing, and apply the appropriate marks with a marker. If there is no laser level, use a tape measure to measure distances, and use a level to align them relative to the horizontal or vertical.
The wooden sheathing must be treated with impregnations against pests and fungi, and then painted. This will significantly extend its service life. It is not worthwhile to cut them in advance, just like MDF panels, since it is necessary to determine them exact dimensions It's hard enough. The material should be prepared as the installation work progresses in order to minimize the amount of waste, and the connecting seams are obtained without visible gaps.
Installation of sheathing
Installation begins from the floor if the sheathing is horizontal or from the wall in the case of a vertical arrangement. Take a guide, apply it to the surface of the wall, and then mark the most convex places (one on each side is enough). These will be the dots zero level. Then equidistant points with a selected value from the interval 40-50 cm are laid off from them. These will be places for additional fastenings, in which you will have to drill holes for plugs or dowels using a hammer drill. For these purposes, a fastener diameter of more than 4 mm and a length of 5 cm is sufficient. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to them.
Then a strip is applied and tight fixation is performed at two selected points. At the same time, make sure that it is parallel to the wall, otherwise the panels will become skewed. Deviation is permissible only if the walls in the room are not parallel and it is necessary to align them or there was a design idea to do them that way. Since the first guide sets the initial level, it must be installed slowly, clearly measuring distances and establishing the correct position.
The fastening of the bar at other points is carried out so that it maintains its position, but at the same time is firmly fixed. That is, in places where the guide does not fit tightly to the wall, it is necessary to install wooden wedges or rigid steel beacons with the required dimensions. You can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones, and adjust the dimensions during installation to the level of the gap from the walls.
The second one secures the upper guide. For it, two conditions must be met: it must be parallel to the wall and the bottom bar, and also be located in the same plane as the first guide. Therefore, they take the rail and fix it at a point on one side of the wall, but not tightly, but so that it is movable. Then a similar procedure is performed on the opposite side. Using a plumb line, check the location of the guide in the same plane as the already installed one, and adjust their parallelism with a level. After alignment is completed, final fastening is carried out.
All remaining slats are attached in the same way according to the markings applied. There is no need to use careful level checks, since it is enough to apply a level bar and check that the guide is in the same plane as the others. After completing work on one wall, they begin to work on the rest. In places where the sheathing adjoins the window and doorways it is necessary to install guides along their perimeter.
Cladding with MDF panels
First, the panel is cut to the height of the room. If you plan to install suspended ceilings, then the height should be 2-3 cm lower than the ceilings. If the wall dimensions are exceeded, a 3 mm indentation is made from the corners on both sides. This is due to the fact that the panels must be fastened together according to the principle of a tenon fitting into a groove.
The cladding process consists of the following stages:
- A J-element is installed in the corner of the room, if provided by the MDF manufacturer.
- They take the panel, place it flush against the wall and snap it into the lock, and then screw it onto self-tapping screws in several places along the tenon. If there is no connecting element, then a tenon is cut off from the end of the panel so that it can be pressed tightly against the corner. Using self-tapping screws or special fasteners, fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws with a distance from the corner of 5-10 mm.
- Finally secure the panel, making sure it is in the correct position.
- They take the second panel, coat the groove with glue and put it on the tenon of the already installed one. The tenon is screwed onto the self-tapping screws. In the grooves, you can make connections using clamps, which are a steel bracket that allows you to securely fix one panel to another. In this case, there is no need to additionally screw, glue or nail the panels. Decorative finishing on adjacent panels should fit together naturally.
- The surface is covered with panels until next corner walls. The panel that borders the wall must be cut at an angle of 450 at the end part on the side of the groove.
- They begin to lay out the next wall with a panel with a cut of 450, but from the tenon side.
- The last panel needs to be rounded at the end so that it can be inserted into the groove that was installed in the first stage. Additionally, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws along the connecting seam.
Alternative methods of fastening panels
- Apply glue to the wall surface. The glue is applied to the entire surface of the wall in a wave-like manner so that excess glue does not come out of the panel, but forms a uniform layer. Due to the elasticity of the adhesive connection, the panel does not detach from the wall during temperature changes.
- For glue to the sheathing. Used in cases where panels have decorative coating. The glue is applied to the sheathing in an even layer. Because of small area The panel contacts must be screwed onto self-tapping screws at the top and bottom.
- Fastening with staples construction stapler or nails to the sheathing. Quite simple and reliable way, but has a significant drawback - the decorative coating is damaged. Due to the rigidity of the fastenings, resistance occurs thermal expansion panels. Therefore, it can only be implemented in cases where the same indoor microclimate is maintained throughout the year.
Conclusion
Installing an MDF panel yourself is quite simple. To do this, just take the correct measurements, cut them to size and choose suitable way fastenings In this case, there is no need to prepare the wall surface, except for cases where it is planned to install the panels on an adhesive base without sheathing. The most important thing is not to rush when setting the position of the guides and the first panel. The result will be a perfectly smooth and smooth surface walls without significant financial costs.