Depending on the age and size of the pet, the cage parameters may vary. For example, for rabbits of the "" breed, special cages will be required. Certain breeds will also need their own special cages.
The length of the cage for females with hatching should be 175-185cm, width – 1m, height – 60-70cm. During the hatching period, it is important that the female feels comfortable. Rabbits are incredibly afraid of dampness and drafts. Place the cages so that they are not constantly exposed to the sun. The façade of the cage should be placed to the east or west. Dig the pillar into the ground (to a depth of 0.6-0.8m), place stationary cells. Portable cages can be placed on stands or wooden trestles. Single-tier cages can be installed at a level of 70-80cm from the ground. In order for rabbits to move easily in cages, the structures must be free. For rabbits weighing over five kilograms, cages with a length of 130-150 cm, a depth of 70 cm, a back wall height of 40-45 cm, and a front wall height of 55-60 cm will be required.
Group cages are used for transplanted young animals. In such cages you can simultaneously keep from eight to twenty rabbits.
From three to five animals under three months of age or two to three rabbits over 3 months of age are kept in individual cages.
For one rabbit, the cage area should be at least 0.5 square meters. m, at least 35cm – wall height.
When making group cages, take into account the number of individuals, because each animal will need at least 0.15-0.20 square meters. m.
External cages for keeping rabbits can be one-, two-, or three-tiered. There should be 35 cm from the surface of the ground to the cells of the lower tier.
In winter, when you need to care for suckling rabbits, you should cover the floor in the nesting compartment with straw. The layer of straw is up to twenty centimeters.
Choose non-artificial materials for making the cage. Synthetic materials have a bad effect on the development of rabbits - this rule is important for all breeds of rabbits.
Cage for adult rabbits
Since large cages are needed for a female with a hatch, a cage with the following parameters will be sufficient for an ordinary rabbit: width 60-70cm, height - 60cm, length -100cm. This minimum dimensions cages for one adult.
The rabbits are growing, and they will need larger cages. For adult rabbits, cages with the following parameters are suitable: width – 60-80cm, height – 50cm, length – 120-150cm. Farmers say that in such a cage an adult will feel free and have personal space. Experts agreed that the floor of the cage should be made of mesh or slats. In appearance, the cage should resemble a block consisting of two cells, each of which can contain an adult.
You can fence off the feeding and nesting compartments of the cage with a wall, although the pet will not get lost and will find food.
When choosing cells, you need to take into account gender. A cage for a female rabbit will not suit a rabbit, although they will be of the same type. Consider the cage size and external conditions when creating the cage.
A two-tier shed is a row of cages placed in one or several tiers. Details about. Suitable choice there will be a two-tier shed - it reduces the working area, does not complicate the control and care of pets. This design is used in the southern regions or on the street. But such an enclosure can be organized in a barn or for the use of summer keeping rabbits. The shad should not stand on the ground. It is preferable to place it at a height of 50-60cm. Considering the size of the pet, the width of the shad should be up to 2m, depth – up to 1m. You can also make a two-tier shed yourself. You will need boards, slate and a durable steel mesh. The shed is built on a one-sided principle. A concrete foundation will increase the stability of the structure. Improved design includes manure channel and drip trays. Sheds – The best way for keeping rabbits. Arranging a shed allows you to keep several pets and makes caring for rabbits easier.
It is important to make a drawing of the cage and in the future add additional houses or even rows of houses for new pets. In the sheds, all the cells are the same in size, the houses are covered with a canopy, placed close to adjacent structures and placed one above the other. The convenience of this design is that the rabbits will spend spring and summer outside.
In winter, rabbits in sheds are given specially heated water. Typically, a nursery for grass or hay is set up between two houses. The cages have waste-free hopper feeders - they need to be loaded for 3 - 8 days. A bunker feeder can be made from steel sheets. In spring and summer they use automatic feeding drinking water for rabbits. The passage in the shed is located at a slight slope from the center to the exit. The rear walls of the cage form the walls of the shad. The sheds have small windows with bars. In winter, the windows with bars are closed with folding doors. Doors are made with inside cells. Be sure to hang drinking bowls and feeders. An overhead road for trolleys (for transporting feed) is equipped along the middle passage.
You will need a double cage with a queen cell. The queen cell is a removable compartment where babies up to a month old will be kept. It is also called the aft compartment. The largest part of such a cell is called the feed cell. There should be a hole between the cells, measuring 17x20cm. A similar design is suitable for a male and a female, two rabbits with babies. Solid wooden partition or mesh will separate the compartments. It is best to make the floor from wooden slats(1.5cm step), then the manure will fall into the lower pan.
Rabbits do not live long and should be comfortable in the house. You should not save too much on materials, because healthy pets will fully pay for the costs. A double cage with a queen cell includes a nursery, a door to the nesting compartment, a mesh door, a folding drinker and feeder, a stand post, and a feeder axis.
The designs should be such that there is no need to constantly open the doors to fill them. Sawdust or small shavings are not suitable for bedding - the dust from them will cause the rabbit to sneeze.
Double cages with mesh aviary
To build a double, single-tier cage with a mesh enclosure, you will need 0.6 sq. m mesh (cells 35x35mm); lumber - 0.2 cubic meters. m, 1.3 sq. m of metal mesh (cells 18x18mm) - if this is not available, then all-welded mesh (cells 16x48mm) will do. Similar designs are needed for non-pregnant rabbits of reproductive age. They can also house adult rabbits and young animals separated from their queens.
Cages for rabbits with devices for storing food for 1-2 weeks
These are advanced cages, they are made from various building materials. Features: in the center there are structures for breeding stock, and along the walls there are enclosures for young individuals. The structures can be two- or three-tiered. But make it so that feces and urine do not fall from the upper cells.
For the uterine compartment: 40x70x60cm, for the light compartment: 60x70x60cm. Auto-drinkers, feeders, nurseries for grass and hay are located in a bright compartment. Install a mesh or slatted grille at a height of 5-10cm in the uterine compartment and at a height of 10-15cm from the floor in the light compartment. In summer you need to clean the cages more often because worms form in the manure.
Cage sizes for Zolotukhin rabbits
Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin, a famous rabbit breeder, developed his own concept for keeping rabbits.
In such cages there are no pallets, the floor is made of boards or slate, the rear walls are mounted at an angle, there are no special queen cells, grain feeders are fixed to the doors, only there is a narrow strip of mesh floor along the rear walls of the structure. Cell dimensions: 70x100cm, cells are placed one above the other in several tiers, queen cells are also placed. To prevent the baby rabbits from falling out through the open door, place a board in front of the queen cell. Queen cells are placed one above the other. A separate opaque door, common to all structures, is installed. The queen cell is located in the cage itself, only part of the removable board is fenced off.
Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits
The breed of large meat-and-skin rabbits is called the “gray giant.” Required dimensions of the structure: width 35cm, length – 60cm, height – 40cm. You can make a more spacious cage: height – 61cm, length – 96cm, width – 68cm. The “gray giant” rabbit lives in areas with different climatic conditions.
Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits
Will do next construction: width 50cm, length 70cm, height 30cm. To make a rabbitry, you will need a soldered mesh, the cells must be square. You will need rolled wire, diameter 6mm. Thinner wire should be wrapped around the joints on the structure. In such designs, water is supplied through nipple drinkers, and there are also small feeders with a supply of food. The animals are fed for about a week. During this period they should be carefully looked after.
Cage sizes for California rabbits
California rabbits are easy to care for. This is a hybrid of Russian ermine, Soviet chinchilla and New Zealand breed. The dimensions of the structure can be 1.5 times smaller than for “gray giant” rabbits. These rabbits can tolerate the cold well even without bedding. For a cell with a queen cell, 0.4 square meters will be enough. m, for one individual – 0.3 sq. m. They are easy to maintain. California rabbits have coarse fur on their feet. When placing individuals in mesh blocks, place pets of the same age - this will make it easier to care for, feed, and conduct veterinary examinations.
To raise California rabbits solely for meat, keep them in a pit. It is very easy to set up a pit, and the living of these rabbits in the pit will be as close as possible to their natural living conditions.
To set up a rabbit pit, you need to dig a hole with approximate dimensions of 2x2x1 m, strengthen the walls with slate or concrete, lay a mesh or plank floor, enclose the hole with a fence, and make a roof. California rabbits will burrow, mate, breed, and raise young.
To avoid degeneration of rabbits, do not allow inbreeding. The rabbit breeder is obliged to supply water, feed, and periodically carry out selective selection. To avoid inbreeding, the first generation to reach sexual maturity, obtained from a particular male, must be captured and replaced with other rabbits.
California rabbits eat dairy products, fish or meat meal, and various protein supplements well. In winter, pets should have warm liquid to drink. Constant access to water is required for rabbits.
IN last years It is very popular among farmers to breed California rabbits. This breed is easy to breed on specialized farms. European rabbits are the ancestors of this individual. Initially, breeders set themselves the task of developing a meat breed of rabbits with good skins. This breed is one of the most famous meat rabbit breeds. 7-8 rabbits is the average fertility of rabbits. When breeding, female rabbits can produce 11-12 rabbits. Rabbits are white (grayish) at birth, and by 3.5-4 months of age they become similar in color to adult rabbits. In two months, newborn rabbits gain two kilograms of weight. Adult female rabbits weigh 4.7-5.2 kg, rabbits - 4.5-5 kg. If you cross New Zealand white rabbits with California rabbits, you can achieve excellent results breeding. Rabbits of this breed have drooping legs. California rabbits have been successfully bred on slatted floors. The tail of Californian rabbits lies close to the body, the chin is symmetrical, the head is set on a short neck, a wide back and shoulders, and a cylindrical body of medium length.
This breed may also be called the “California White Rabbit” because it is pure white. However, the tips of the ears, tail and paws may be brown or black. Usually such a rabbit weighs no more than 5 kg. If you weigh more, you are obese. The rabbit's legs are thick and short, its eyes are pink, its skeleton is strong and light. The length of the ears does not exceed 10cm. Experienced breeders advise novice rabbit breeders to pay attention to breeding California rabbits, because they are easy to keep.
The length of the fur is approximately 3cm, the length of the body is 50cm. The head is round, medium-sized. The rabbit's fur is shiny and thick. California rabbits can also be bought for entertainment, because they have a peaceful disposition and cheerful character. With proper care, California rabbits can live up to ten years. However, due to their large size, such individuals will be difficult to keep as ornamentals. Rooms with moderate, constant air temperature and lighting are suitable for their maintenance. You can feed them hay, grass, cereals, flour, vegetables, and cereals.
Optimal cage sizes for rabbits
Suitable cages will have the following dimensions: length - 120-150cm, width - 60-80cm, front wall height - 45-50cm, the door should be mesh, dimensions 65x70x50cm, slatted or mesh floor.
Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits
Industrial cage designs are modular, which, taking into account the stages of the process cycle, allows new designs to be added to existing ones. Dimensions: 2x2x1x7m, there are ten uterine compartments, measuring 40x92cm. To facilitate access to the boxes, there are spring-loaded lids. The operator, using the lifting covers of the partitions, can clean the rabbit uterus sections without any obstacles, perform weaning, individual therapy, palpation, and insemination. To remove litter, all cages have removable corner panels.
In order for rabbits to grow and develop well, it is important not only to feed them properly, but also to provide them with comfortable living conditions. That is, build comfortable, spacious housing for the animals. The sizes of cages for rabbits may vary. It all depends on what breed they are intended for.
Minimum dimensions
The cages are made in such a way that per head there is at least:
- for sexually mature female rabbits - 0.5-0.7 m2;
- repair rabbits - 0.17 m2;
- young animals - 0.12 m2;
- breeding males - 0.3-0.5 m2.
A large rabbit (giant, flander) will need a home measuring at least 0.75 (w) x 0.55 (h) x 1.7 (d) m. Smaller animals (chinchilla) - 0.6 x 0.45 x 0.9 m. Cage sizes for dwarf and dwarf rabbits ornamental breeds will be appropriate.
What should the design be?
Typically, rabbit cages are built on a timber frame. The back and side walls, as well as the roof, are made of thick plywood or boards. The front part is made of mesh with a fine mesh (for example, 2.5 x 5 cm). The floor of the cage should be sloping. It is also made from mesh (1.5 x 5 cm) or slats packed parallel to each other. A tray is installed under the floor to collect manure. This design will allow you to keep the “room” clean. The lid, if the cages are installed outdoors, should be made pitched and protruding forward by about 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm. It is covered with slate or corrugated sheets on top.
The cage should be raised above the ground by at least 70-80 cm. Caring for animals with this arrangement is much easier. And the animals themselves will be protected from attacks by dogs and small rodents entering the cage. Very often, cells are arranged in rows of several tiers. One dwelling can be used for either one or two adult rabbits (or several small ones).
Hanging removable drinkers and feeders are hung on the front side. It is best to make them rotating. This will make feeding the rabbits easier. In addition, animal feces will not fall into the feeders. Next, let's look at what the “rooms” for the queens should be, as well as the size of the cages for keeping rabbits and breeding them.
Cages for rabbits
Housing for sexually mature females is divided into two parts: feeding and uterine. As a partition, use plywood with a hole cut into it with a diameter of 20 cm. It should be located above the floor at a height of approximately 10-15 cm. This is necessary so that small rabbits do not crawl into the aft part. The floor in the queen cell is made not from slats or mesh, but from solid plywood. The front door of the queen cell is made of board or plywood. For the stern part it is made of mesh. Before breeding, the queen cell itself, measuring 0.4 x 0.4 m and 20 cm high, is installed in the nesting compartment.
Standard double option
In addition to multi-tiered ones, long cages are often used in private households. A couple of animals are placed in them at once. Dimensions of cages for double rabbits:
- in length - 210-240 cm;
- width - 65 cm;
- in height from the facade - 50-60 cm;
- height from the rear wall - 35 cm.
Queen cells are located on the sides of such cells. The remaining part houses the aft compartments. The floor in them is made of lattice, and in the nesting compartments it is solid. In the middle of the cage there are mangers made of V-shaped mesh, designed for distributing roughage. Drinkers and feeders for grain are hung on the doors.
Cages with aviaries
Such dwellings are usually arranged for young animals. Walking is very beneficial for teenage rabbits. After all, these animals are naturally very active and love to move a lot. The dimensions of cages for rabbits, designed for two animals, and with an enclosure are usually as follows:
The enclosure is located along the back wall and has the same height as it - 60 cm. The cage and the paddock are separated by a removable partition.
Group cages for young animals
There are other varieties similar designs. Of course, in this case we also select specific sizes cages for rabbits. Drawings are drawn up, for example, in such a way that the housing turns out to be:
- length equal to 2-4 m;
- wide - 1 m;
- with a front wall height of 50 cm;
- rear - 40 cm.
IN in this case The back and side walls and lid are made of thick plywood, and the front and floor are made of mesh. The length of the visor is 30 cm.
Cages for California rabbits
This breed is Lately is becoming more and more popular in our country. It's all about the very good adaptability of Californian rabbits to the weather conditions of any region. They have very thick fur on their paws. Therefore, they do not freeze in winter. For animals of this breed, housing is arranged in the same way as for any other not too large one. The optimal cage sizes for California rabbits are 120 x 60 x 60 cm.
Cells of N. I. Zolotukhin
This option has recently attracted great interest among rabbit breeders. N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding furry animals for more than 60 years and has independently designed two types of rather convenient and practical cages for them - three-tiered and pyramidal.
The main feature of the first option is solid plywood floors. Only a 15 cm wide strip is made of mesh at the back of the cage. A biological feature of rabbits is that they go to the toilet in this very place (70% of all feces and all urine are collected here). To prevent waste products from falling on the heads of animals from the lower tiers, the rear wall of the cage is made inclined. That is, the grid on the floor protrudes beyond the plane of the complex. The back wall is made of opaque polycarbonate.
The floors of the pyramidal variety of Zolotukhin cells have the same design. However, in this case, the tiers are simply shifted relative to each other by the width of the mesh strip. As a result, the complex takes on a pyramidal shape when viewed in profile.
Another feature of Zolotukhin’s cages are folding feeders. They do not spin on hinges or some complex device, but on ordinary nails. The size of Zolotukhin's rabbit cages is not too large - approximately 70 x 100 cm. However, the animals feel very good in them. When keeping rabbits in cages designed by this farmer, it is not necessary to carry out thorough weekly cleaning. It is enough to sweep completely dry floors from time to time. Manure is cleared from the back of the tiers from the ground 1-2 times a year.
Sheds
So, now you know what size rabbit cages should be. Drawings of such structures are presented on this page. Now let's see where to place the finished cells. Of course, you can put them right on the street. In this case, tiers are usually placed under trees. With this arrangement, in summer the animals will be protected from direct sunlight, and in winter - from the piercing wind. However, it is better to install cages in special sheds. This is what they call buildings with gable roof, the side walls of which are formed by the rear walls of the tiers. That is, the cells are installed in two rows with the facades facing the inside of the resulting room.
Shed doors are made with swing doors. They are often double. In this case, in addition to solid panels, a mesh door is installed. In summer, the wooden doors open. The screen door remains closed. As a result, the animals receive more light and fresh air. On the south side there is usually an enclosure for walking young animals.
Rabbit barn
It is not necessary to install the cages exactly in the shad. Protect animals from rain, snow and severe frosts You can also arrange a comfortable shed for them. The most important thing when drawing up a project for such a structure is to ensure that there are no drafts in it. Rabbits cannot tolerate them at all. It is best to make the roof of a barn pitched. In this case, it will be possible to dry and store hay on it. Floors are usually arranged slightly inclined towards the entrance. With this design it will be more convenient to clean.
Be sure to install several windows in the barn. For good development rabbits need Fresh air and a lot of light. Inside the shed there must be a corner designed for storing equipment.
Cages for young animals are usually placed along the walls. The rabbits' homes with queen cells are in the middle of the barn.
What you need to know
The required dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits, keeping queens and breeding rabbits during production must be observed. If you put a large animal in a small “room”, nothing good will come of it. Deprived of the opportunity to move freely, the animal will develop poorly. The discomfort in the cages also affects the rabbits' ability to reproduce. In addition, with high crowding, the risk of developing various kinds infectious diseases.
As you can see, making cages and even a shed for rabbits yourself is not at all difficult. Comfortable homes for these animals are quite simple design. The optimal size of cages for rabbits depends only on the body constitution of that particular breed.
In order for your small rabbit breeding farm to flourish, you need to take care not only of choosing a breed and caring for your pets, but also of such an important detail as a house for rabbits. In fact, a lot depends on how you organize your rabbits' living arrangements. Therefore, studying the issue of assembling a cage for rabbits with your own hands is of paramount importance.
The question of how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands sooner or later arises for every farmer, and we will try to give a detailed and competent answer to it. If you are wondering how to make a cage for rabbits, do not rush to take up the tools. First you need to make a series preparatory activities, and then build cages for rabbits.
Cage designs for rabbits have many options, and differ depending on the specific breeds, as well as the scale of the farm. That is, in simple terms, rabbit cages whose designs are suitable for a dwarf individual are not the best choice for breeding large breeds. Finding useful information on this issue is not difficult, especially considering the fact that drawings of cages for rabbits are provided absolutely free. In particular, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with a book such as Mikhailov’s drawings of cages for rabbits, as it contains a lot of useful information.
Before you start building a cage for rabbits, you need to decide on its territorial location, since in the future this will affect the efficiency of the process. It is necessary to choose a place that is surrounded by trees, as this will help protect the rabbits from the cold during the winter.
Of course, you can purchase cages for rabbits in specialized stores, but as practice shows, they are not always of good quality. Often the design of purchased cages is created without taking into account the specifics of breeding, and such products are more decorative than effective. This is why most rabbit breeders choose to assemble a rabbit cage with their own hands, as this allows them to take into account all the necessary nuances.
We should not forget that a rabbit cage is not just wooden box, and a rather complex structure - in which feeders and drinking bowls are implemented. Another important detail is the location of the cell. That is, keeping rabbits outside under a canopy and placing the cage indoors require different types of buildings.
DIY rabbit cage construction
Now that you've decided on a location, it's time to talk about the first cage you'll build for your pets. The first stage of construction will be the selection of materials, since their quality is great importance. For making walls, it is recommended to choose thick boards or plywood. The rabbit cage frame and supports are made from wooden blocks. The mesh from which you will make the floor should have small cells, approximately 1.7x1.7 centimeters. For finishing, wooden or plastic slats are usually used, no more than three centimeters wide.
*All material chosen for the construction of a rabbit cage must be perfectly smooth and even, and in no case contain any traumatic irregularities.
When talking about cage sizes, it doesn’t make sense to name any specific sizes, since they depend on the specific breed of rabbits and can vary. However, there is a standard below which a rabbit cage should not be built under any circumstances. It is fifty centimeters high, seventy centimeters wide, and one and a half meters long.
When building a cage for rabbits with your own hands, it makes sense to immediately take care of a compartment into which you can later insert a house for females ready for breeding. Making such a compartment is quite simple, and in fact it is enough to simply assemble a box without a lid, with approximate dimensions 35 by 35 centimeters. A height of 20 centimeters in this case will be quite sufficient. The floor must be made of a homogeneous whole sheet.
Necessary elements for building a rabbit cage with your own hands
1.WALLS
The walls of the cage must be made of wood or plywood.
2.GENDER
Wooden slats or mesh are used to make the floor, but do not forget that some breeds have an intolerance to mesh flooring.
3.ROOF
If the location of the cage with rabbits is the street, the roof must be covered with tiles. In the room, such an element as tiles is not necessary.
4. DRINKERS AND FEEDERS
It is best to make feeders and drinking bowls for rabbits retractable and located outside, so that pets do not contaminate their contents.
The first stage of building a rabbit cage with your own hands is assembling the frame. The height from the ground to the beginning of the structure is seventy centimeters, the front part is fifty-five centimeters, and the back is thirty-five centimeters.
After assembling the frame, it must be sheathed with plywood or boards. Do not forget that you need to make a nest in the rabbit cage, while the floor itself is made solid, and only a mesh flooring is made on top of it. The compartments are separated from each other by a special partition, in which it is necessary to make a hole to provide passage for rabbits. As a rule, the roof is made on hinges, so that if necessary it can be folded back.
As you probably know, raising rabbits is quite a profitable business - quite a lot of people have become interested in rabbit farming recently. But every rabbit breeder needs to start somewhere. Once you have some “basic” knowledge on this topic, the obvious question arises: where can you get a cage for your future pets?
Rabbits are not among the animals for which it is necessary to create some exceptional conditions. Therefore, it is easier to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands than to buy a used one from someone and sell it as unnecessary, or to order its production. Homemade cage will allow you to take into account all the features of its location and save a lot of money. And it will be possible to avoid manufacturer’s defects - after all, any person will try to do it well for himself.
Choosing a location and material for the cage
You need to start by choosing a location for the rabbitry. The main criterion when choosing such a place is its protection from wind and drafts.
In addition, it is necessary to take into account that for breeding rabbits you need cages various types. Some will contain pregnant females, others will contain baby rabbits. There should be separate cages for males. Therefore, it turns out that we will have to build an entire “residential complex”. In addition, cages can be either outdoors or indoors. The cages themselves may have space for “walking”, although they can be built without it.
Before starting construction, it is necessary to select a material for the construction of cells. It is not recommended to use iron. All parts exposed to load (frame, supports) must be mounted from wooden blocks. For walls, either boards, plywood, or mesh are used. This depends on the climate and on the location of the rabbitry - on the street or in the house.
The grid should be chosen with small cells. Finishing slats are used from wood or plastic. It is necessary to carefully process all the wooden parts of the cage, literally “sand it”, otherwise such a dwelling for rabbits will become traumatic.
The floor is best made of mesh or slats. In the latter case, they should be laid so that there is approximately 1.5 cm between them. If the cage is placed on the street, then a double floor is made. First, boards are laid, and then a mesh or slats are fixed on top, at a certain height. This is necessary to ensure that animal waste does not accumulate on the floor.
The roof of the house is made of the same material as the walls. But if the cell is under open air, then the grid is naturally excluded. For “street” cages, the roof must be additionally covered (slate,). Metal coating It should not be used, as the iron will heat up under the sun, and the rabbits will become uncomfortable.
There are different breeds of these furry animals, so there is no single standard for the dimensions of a home. You should focus on the maximum minimum for cell sizes: 150x70x70 (in cm). If it is decided to place the cages outdoors, then they should be installed “at height” (on supports). This way it is more convenient to care for rabbits, and there will be a guarantee against rodents entering the cage. Cages that are supposed to be placed indoors should be made in the form of houses. Wild relatives of domestic rabbits live in burrows, so you need to take this “call of the ancestors” into account.
Feeders and drinking bowls for rabbits must be designed so that the animals cannot pollute them. If they are installed inside (permanently), then they must be equipped with covers. Can be made retractable or hanging.
Now, having this knowledge, you can begin to build cells. Here are the dimensions for medium-sized animals. If the back wall is 70x50 cm, then the front should be a little larger (for example, 80x55). The entire cage is divided into compartments, between which there should be a hole for rabbits. The lid needs to be hinged. This will make caring for the animals and cleaning their homes much easier.
This general recommendations for the construction of cells. As already mentioned, the design depends on many factors: living conditions (at home, outdoors), climatic conditions, the number of animals and much more. However, there are rules that must be followed regardless of the characteristics of the rabbitry:
- The size of the cage for males should be such that the animals have enough space to move. If the rabbits are cramped, they will simply become lazy. It may come to the point that there will be no offspring from them;
- for 3 – 4 rabbits you need to make a separate cage, and a spacious one. When breeding rabbits, little rabbits are kept with their mothers, who fatten them;
- one cell must be free. The fact is that some rabbits do not reach the required weight during the period of being kept together with their mother. Therefore, they are then fattened separately while their mother prepares for the next litter.
Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making a comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.
What materials can it be made from?
When planning the construction of rabbit hutches, the first thing you should think about is choosing the right ones. building materials. In principle, any available means are suitable for constructing a simple structure that can protect animals from unfavorable external factors.
In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.
Wood
Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage
Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.
The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. Don't lose sight of the beautiful thermal insulation properties wood: a wooden rabbitry will be warm in winter, and not too hot in summer.
Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so wooden elements interior decoration the cells are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.
Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.
Metal
Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill
Metal compared to wood is more durable material for construction. Rabbits cannot chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.
The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent chewing natural material. But it is not recommended to make the roof and outer walls of the cage out of metal, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.
Galvanized profile
Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.
Plastic elements
Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat
Plastic pipes can become an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cells for use in any conditions.
When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal elements structures that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from shrapnel, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.
Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.
Bricks and clay
Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Net
The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be one with a grid, which should have cells of medium or small size and be strong enough.
Slate
Most practical material Slate is used to make a roof in a rabbit hutch. He will do a great job protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.
Available materials
Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers to contain rodents, or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.
Each material has special properties that can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings if you plan to use them.
Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage
When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage
There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.
If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the optimal parameters will be the following sizes:
- Length - 120–150 cm;
- Width - 60–80 cm;
- Height - 60 cm.
In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.
There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.
In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult individual. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.
The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which falls through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If flooring make it continuous, you will have to clean it too often.
To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:
- Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
- Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
- Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
- Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
- Fittings - door hinges and latches;
- Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.
Tools for work:
- Hand saw or grinder;
- Metal scissors or wire cutters;
- A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
- Tape measure, pencil, level.
Drawing
Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits
The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.
Manufacturing instructions
- Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
- The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
- The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made from plywood.
- Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
- At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.
Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage
In addition to the covered part, in the cage for decorative rabbits must be open
The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. Animal comfort is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.
The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. The ideal option is wooden floor, covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).
Required tools and materials
Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:
- Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the dimensions of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
- Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
- Wooden slats;
- Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
- Self-tapping screws or nails;
- Door fittings.
Tools for work:
- Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Screwdriver or hammer;
- Nippers or metal scissors;
Drawing
Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits
The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.
Manufacturing instructions
- The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. A base measuring 90x60 cm is cut out of chipboard or a wooden panel.
- On wooden base lay a metal shield of similar dimensions.
- Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
- The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
- The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. Optimal size for the door - 30x30 cm.
- The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
- The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.
Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. Paint cell surfaces paint and varnish materials It’s not worth it, as rodents can become poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.
Video: DIY two-story rabbit cage
Design Features
All rabbit cages are designed based on general principles, however, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm keeps several groups of rabbits at the same time. different ages or even breeds.
Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should choose suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.
For rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) special conditions the contents, and therefore the cells for them, will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.
The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.
Depending on the size of the rabbits
The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents
Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:
- Length - 120–170 cm;
- Width - 60–80 cm;
- Height - 50–60 cm.
Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:
- Length - 70–90 cm;
- Width - 35–55 cm;
- Height - 30–50 cm.
Giant rabbits will need much more space:
- Length - 85–100 cm;
- Width - 70–80 cm;
- Height - 60–80 cm.
Multi-tiered cells
Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous keeping of a large number of rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.
Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:
- Capacity;
- The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
- It is convenient to care for animals;
- Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.
Depending on the purpose
If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.
Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:
- Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
- The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
- A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding the mother;
- The cage for young animals meets standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.
Depending on the climate and time of year
The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.
In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer involves different kinds cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.
In regions with temperate climate Without sudden temperature changes, you can keep rabbits year-round in the same portable structures, which, when the first cold weather sets in, are moved indoors. IN summer period such cells are again moved to the open air.
Choosing a location for installation
Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.
Rabbits do not tolerate it well high humidity, therefore on outdoors a place should be chosen remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct Sun rays can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.
When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cells.
Do not forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.
Arrangement
Feeder options for rabbit cages
In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.
Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.
The flooring for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. Best options Sawdust or absorbent textile diapers are considered.
How to crate train a rabbit
If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough
In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If the rabbit cage is not constructed correctly and has sharp internal corners, small space or is in a noisy environment, animals will experience stress, which will adversely affect their health and reproductive function.
Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.
Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business V rural areas. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and tips from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for their rabbits.