Lining appeared on the building materials market relatively recently, but has already gained popularity. She provides great appearance, characterized by ease of installation and high strength.
Today, clapboard façade cladding can be found on residential buildings, bathhouses, administrative buildings and shops. This popularity is due to a number of advantages of this finishing material, among which:
- excellent thermal insulation properties;
- defence from external factors(rain, wind, snow);
- ease of installation;
- soundproofing;
- thermal insulation;
- light weight;
- variety of materials and color palette;
- increasing the service life of the building.
Panels for facade finishing are made from plastic, metal, fiber cement, and wood.
Unambiguously determine the best lining difficult. The choice always depends on the operating conditions and purpose of the building. Before choosing cladding, specialists must take into account the climatic features of the area, the type of structure and its operational properties.
In order to produce competent comparative characteristics lining, you should consider its features in such parameters as cost, durability, service life and safety.
Sometimes the fundamental factor when choosing lining is cost building material. However, cheap does not mean good.
Of course, the tree is more different at a high price and the cost of such panels depends on the type of wood and class. Today on the market is wide choose Eurolining class “A” or “Extra”. More durable wood, strict quality control and the difference in defects determine a fairly high price.
The most common is class “B” pine lining, which is excellent for cladding country houses, terraces, and bathhouses.
Plastic (vinyl) lining will cost an order of magnitude cheaper, but at the same time, it does not provide that natural appearance that many people like so much.
The service life depends on the characteristics of use. Atmospheric precipitation, temperature, air humidity and other criteria have a direct impact. Therefore, when choosing the type of forcing, all these factors should be taken into account.
Plastic lining is not at all afraid of moisture, but at the same time it does not have sufficient resistance to temperature changes. Vinyl tolerates exposure to UV radiation, but does not withstand mechanical influence from the outside. Any small impact is enough and the integrity of the panels can be damaged.
Popularity vinyl panels also determines diversity color solutions, allowing you to select suitable range to match the style and exterior of the building. The scope of application of vinyl products is very wide; they are widely used for cladding balconies, loggias, and gazebos. But low frost resistance makes this material undesirable for cladding houses in climate zones with strong temperature changes.
Example of façade finishing with vinyl siding
Wood is highly durable mechanical damage, is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, but does not like moisture. Specialists treat wooden lining with special protective compounds to improve its performance. Wood creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort that no other material can convey.
If we talk about safety, then vinyl lining is not subjected to fire-resistant impregnation. When burned, vinyl melts, evaporating harmful substances.
Wood trim is great solution for a bathhouse, terrace or private home. To increase fire resistance, the boards are pre-treated with a special impregnation. The unique structure of wood, its healing properties and environmental friendliness determine the wide demand for this material.
If not properly cared for, wood quickly loses its properties. It may crack and become deformed. It is for this purpose that before installing this material, specialists carry out thorough treatment with special antiseptic and hydrophobic mixtures. This prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and protects the wood from moisture penetration. As for care, wood is difficult to wash and clean. Over time, it can change its shade and lose its original freshness.
Plastic, on the contrary, is easy to maintain. It is enough to wipe with a damp cloth or use cleaning agents and the vinyl looks like it was originally covered. Despite high stability to UV rays, plastic may lose its color brightness over time, which does not in any way affect its performance properties.
Vinyl lining is often called laminated panels that perfectly imitate the structure of wood, fake diamond or metal, which allows you to implement any design idea.
Thus, the following advantages can be identified from plastic lining:
- low weight;
- UV resistance;
- manifold color range;
- long service life;
- ease of care;
- ease of installation.
Peculiarities
Wooden lining– these are panels of certain dimensions with tongue-and-groove fastening. Coniferous and hardwoods wood The most popular materials for the production of wooden lining are pine, spruce, ash, alder and linden. You can rarely find oak lining, which is explained by its high price.
Standard board sizes:
- board thickness can vary from 12 to 25 mm;
- width - up to 150 mm;
- length – up to 6000 mm.
Eurolining, which is one of the types of wooden lining, is characterized by higher strength and best quality execution. It belongs to class A, the quality standard regulates the presence of no more than one knot for every one and a half meters of the board. There are more requirements for its production high requirements, accordingly, the price for such material is much higher. Eurolining "Extra" class eliminates any knots and cracks and is one of the most expensive materials.
The dimensions of eurolining have more stringent standards:
- width comes in four types: 80, 100, 110 or 120 mm;
- board length varies from 500 to 6000 mm;
- thickness can be 13, 16 or 19 mm.
The stage of laying wooden boards is preceded by special processing antiseptic to prevent mold and mildew. Antiseptic treatment significantly increases service life facing material and increases its strength and wear resistance.
Prices for wood preservatives
Impregnation for wood
What should you consider when choosing wooden lining?
When choosing wooden boards as cladding for a building, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:
- type of wood (pine, spruce, larch);
- wood class (extra, A, B, C);
- wood drying method. The strength of the material and its service life depend on this. For high-quality drying of the lining, special drying chambers. This, of course, increases the cost of the product, but such material will also last much longer.
Metal lining often called metal siding. This material has smooth surface, which does not require additional processing and painting.
Metal lining It has a long service life (about 50 years), withstands strong temperature changes, and does not corrode. But this material also has disadvantages. Metal lining is not flexible. The variety of colors, wood or stone imitation makes this type of lining quite versatile and in demand building material.
Siding “L-Bruce” (metal, “Ecosteel” coating)
Prices for lining
Types of installation
There are two ways to attach the lining: vertical and horizontal. Before choosing a method, you should consider that vertical cladding will visually increase the height of the building's exterior.
Horizontal, on the contrary, will visually increase the width of the facade. Before buying material, calculate how many boards you will need for one and the other method. Consider the width and length of the beams to minimize waste.
Choosing a mounting method: disadvantages and advantages
There are several types of fastening lining to the facade of a house. Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, and the choice of method should be dictated not only by the cladding material, but also by operational features.
A set of tools that may be needed:
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- wood hacksaw or jigsaw;
- roulette;
- construction stapler;
- hammer;
- rule;
- level (water or alcohol).
Prices for popular hammer drill models
Hammers
In addition to high-quality and reliable tools, you will need the following consumables:
What work should be done beforehand?
Before construction work You need to carefully treat each board and beam with an antiseptic.
Please note that many antiseptics contain a coloring pigment that will affect decorative function linings. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, it is recommended to treat only the inner part of the material, and varnish the outer part after installation. If the facade is being prepared for painting, this does not matter and both sides can be treated with an antiseptic.
Let the lining dry well so as not to deteriorate it specifications.
Facade cladding with wooden clapboard: step-by-step instructions
The process of covering a building with clapboard is quite simple. Even without experience, but strictly following the instructions, you will be able to carry out the finishing work yourself.
Before you start finishing works, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the house. Selecting material for insulation. There are several types of insulation on the market today outer skin: mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam, cellulose insulation.
In order to decorate the house with clapboard and at the same time produce thermal insulation work, it is necessary to install the building sheathing. This will create the necessary air space, between which an additional layer of insulation can be laid. All electric wires And ventilation ducts also hidden under the sheathing. In addition, the lathing provides proper ventilation, which significantly increases service life. facade finishing. If the wall surface is perfectly flat and is not required additional insulation at home, the finishing strips can be nailed directly to concrete wall dowel-nails.
Prices for mineral wool
Mineral wool
Preparing walls for lathing installation
Step 1. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall surface from any dirt and flaking fragments of paint or plaster. This can be done using a spatula.
Step 2. We remove all protruding structures and parts from the facade (door frames, window frames, visors, etc.). Those parts that cannot be dismantled must be cut using a grinder with a diamond wheel.
Step 3. We close all cracks and large holes cement mortar or wood putty and let it dry well for 24 hours.
Video - Repairing cracks on the wall of a house
Step 4. After complete drying, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the facade with an antiseptic substance and prime it well. This will prevent the spread of mold and mildew on the walls. The antiseptic also serves as an excellent protection against termites and other harmful insects.
Installation of double-layer lathing
To install the sheathing, you must choose dry weather, and the timber that will be used for construction must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. Drying the material must be carried out for at least two weeks, since the maximum permissible humidity lumber can be 15%.
For house sheathing wooden will do or a metal profile, but the choice of material is best tied to the lining itself. If you plan to clad the facade with wood, then it is better to use wooden beams as the material for the sheathing. This will simplify the installation diagram. If the sheathing is planned under metal siding, then you can choose a galvanized profile 28x27 mm.
Sometimes builders create combined option battens. A wooden sheathing is created around the perimeter of the entire house, and for ground floor a frame is built from a metal profile in order to protect the structure as much as possible from humidity, because it will be high near the ground.
Since we are considering a scheme for fastening wooden lining, we will also use wood as a material for the construction of the sheathing.
Step 1. Mount the wooden beam horizontally
If the sheathing is created on wooden house, then it is necessary to create a sliding structure (we use corners with vertical holes).
The distance between the bars should be 40 cm. If you decide to lay the slabs mineral wool for insulation, then focus on the width of the slab, reducing or increasing the fastening step. We attach the sheathing to U-shaped hangers in order to achieve the most even surface possible.
Step 2. Carry out thermal insulation work
We take the insulation and lay it between the wall of the house and the created wooden structure.
Step 3. Create a wind and water barrier
For this we take a special protective film and secure it with a construction stapler over the grate. We apply the film with an overlap of 10-15 cm to avoid damage to the thermal and waterproofing.
Prices for vapor barrier materials
Vapor barrier material
Step 4. Install the counter-lattice
This is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. We now mount the counter-lattice vertically, in increments of 40 cm. We attach a 50x10 mm wooden lath with nails to the existing sheathing. All this is done in the vertical direction, since the cladding is assumed to be horizontal.
Construction of a single-layer sheathing
If insulation of the house is not planned, then you can limit yourself to installing a single-layer sheathing.
Step 1. We check the level of wooden beams and build from them vertical design. To do this, we fasten the beams in the corners of the house with U-shaped hangers with a distance between the fastening elements of 50 cm. We check their verticality with a level.
Now we take 3 cords (the length is equal to the length of the wall) and connect these beams with three cords (top, middle and bottom). This will make it easier to create a flat surface in the future. You can use a rule for these purposes. This tool makes it easier to align the cords evenly.
Step 2. After we have tightened the laces, we begin to build the rest of the sheathing in a vertical position in increments of 40-50 cm. The laces are in in this case will act as beacons for setting the plane. The slats should not protrude beyond the lace and change its tension.
Step 3. After the entire structure is built and level checked, we remove the laces and proceed directly to cladding the facade with clapboard.
Horizontal installation of wooden lining
This type of fastening involves movement from top to bottom. This will protect the sheathing material from moisture and dirt. We use clamps (metal staples) for fastening to ensure the reliability of the cladding and aesthetic appearance. In addition, this greatly simplifies and speeds up the finishing process.
Installation diagram wood siding, insulated facade
Step 1. We take the first strip of lining and nail it to top beam sheathing under the roof. To avoid cracking the board, drive the nail at a 45-degree angle. You can pre-wet the nail to reduce the chance of damaging the board. For installation it is better to use finishing nails 50 mm long.
Step 2. Now we insert the clamp into the bottom groove of the first board and nail it with 20 mm nails. This is done so that the top board does not start to “play” during subsequent installation.
Step 3. We take the next board of the lining, insert it into the groove of the first board and secure it from below again with a clamp along the sheathing bars. The clamp must be secured with 20 mm nails using a hammer, but in order to facilitate the process and protect your hands, use a “spacer”. To do this, take a 100 mm nail, turn it upside down and press the head against the head of a 20 mm nail.
Step 4. Last board cut to size and inserted into the groove of the previous board. But there is a small nuance here. If we cut the board exactly to the size of the remaining gap, then we will not be able to fit it into the groove of the previous lining. Therefore, it needs to be cut 1.5 cm shorter. This will allow you to easily insert it into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees, press it against the sheathing and press it with a pry bar from the bottom up until it is completely fixed.
Step 5. Now we nail the panel with a 50 mm nail (as in the case of the first board) to the sheathing at the bottom of the last board.
Step 6. The final touch is the installation of a plinth skirt, which will close the junction gap. We fasten the base skirt with 50 mm nails or galvanized screws with a press washer 30 mm long.
Step 7 We close the corner external joints with decorative corners using 50 mm nails. To hide the presence of fasteners as much as possible, you can use a small trick. To do this, drive the nail in half, bite off the head with pliers and drive it in flush with the corner with a nail. The fastener spacing must be at least 50 cm on both sides of the corner.
We produce vertical cladding: step-by-step instructions
The main difference between this installation is that the sheathing is done in a horizontal position, and the lining will be sewn vertically.
Important! When choosing the material and type of installation, consider the size of the wall. When vertical cladding, you need to take into account the length of the lining so that there is no horizontal seam along the entire perimeter of the building. It is necessary to cover the walls with a staggered offset, or install a panel strip.
Vertical cladding with plastic lining: step-by-step instructions
You will need the following materials:
- dowels 6x80 mm;
- staplers;
- plastic lining;
- base skirt;
- decorative plastic corners(external, internal or universal);
- beams for the construction of sheathing (50x50 mm);
- self-tapping screws;
- glue for plastic;
- U-shaped hangers.
Step 1. We install the building sheathing. If insulation is planned, we do it double lathing(see above). If the house does not need an additional thermal insulation layer, we limit ourselves to a single-layer sheathing.
Step 2. Let's take it plastic lining and fasten the outer part with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. Do not forget that the plastic panels are laid strictly perpendicular to the sheathing. Plastic panel cut according to necessary measurements with a hacksaw.
Step 3. We fix the inner part of the lining with a construction stapler to the frame beams. Always check that the entire surface of the panel has entered the lock to prevent further deformation of the wall and loss of integrity.
Step 4. We insert the next board into the fastenings and fix it with a stapler to the sheathing in increments of 40 cm.
Step 5. The finishing panel is secured with a screw and a press washer. After this you should apply decorative corner and secure it with glue.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
At the end of the article, we invite you to carefully read the video instructions on how to properly install lining to the facade of a building.
Video - Covering a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall
Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame
Installation of the lining should be carried out on a pre-leveled base made of plywood or fiberboard sheets. It is not always possible to use such materials as a base surface, so many builders use leveled lathing made of wood, metal profiles or plastic to fasten the panels. In our article we will get acquainted with the purpose of the frame and the nuances of its installation.
Why do you need sheathing for lining? Using fiberboard sheets or plywood to level the base is not always cost-effective. Besides similar products will not be able to smooth out all the irregularities. Attach the lining even to perfectly leveled concrete or brick walls also impossible. In this case, you need to use dowels to secure the panels, which will only complicate the work.
The way out of this situation is to pre-install a frame made of wooden slats or a metal profile. The sheathing is a mesh with a certain distance between the guides. With its help, you can not only reduce material consumption, but also perfectly level the surface.
Should you choose a wooden or metal profile?
IN modern construction They use several types of material to make lathing, but we will look at the most common products. The first place in popularity is occupied by a tree known to everyone.
To make a frame for the lining, square bars with a side size of 2.5 to 5 centimeters are used. When choosing such a material, you should remember that the slats must withstand the load from the coating and not take away usable space rooms. Therefore, to fix light slats, select slats with a small cross-section.
Despite the prevalence of wooden guides, such products have their drawbacks:
- flammability;
- insufficient resistance to moisture;
- possibility of surface damage by fungus and mold.
The technical characteristics of wood can be improved by impregnating products with antiseptics and fire retardants.
The metal profile has improved properties. It is made in the form of a galvanized corner, is not afraid of moisture and sudden temperature changes, does not rot or warp. The only drawback of such products is the high cost.
Required Tools
To simplify the installation of wooden or steel sheathing, you need to prepare the appropriate tools and materials:
- wooden slats of a certain section or galvanized metal beams;
- self-tapping screws (dowels);
- a hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting lining;
- grinder, used for trimming metal profiles;
- axe;
- electric drill for drilling holes for dowels;
- tape measure and pencil;
- cord;
- building level;
- battery-powered screwdriver or screwdriver;
- antiseptics and fire retardants for treating wood against rotting, fungus and mold.
Using wooden beam When installing sheathing for lining, choose only high-quality products. There should be no chips, knots or cracks on their surface. The durability of the entire coating will depend on the quality of the frame material. Decisive factor Humidity is considered here. This figure for wood should not exceed 16%, otherwise the material will be deformed during operation, which will lead to the appearance of unevenness on the skin.
The frame guides are fixed to a brick or concrete wall using dowels. To fix on wooden base There will be enough screws. To simplify the work of installing the sheathing under the lining, it is necessary to use screws of the required length, and also place wooden wedges under the slats in places where there is sagging.
Marking the surface for the frame
At the initial stage of installing the frame, it is necessary to mark the walls for installing a metal profile or wooden slats. For this, a pencil (chalk) and a building level are usually used. First, the location of the lining is determined; it can be horizontal or vertical. In accordance with the chosen method of fastening the planks, a method of fixing the frame is selected. In any case, the guides are mounted perpendicular to the fixation of the trim.
Now you need to treat the wooden slats and walls with antifungal drugs and mark the base surface. The pitch of the frame guides is selected as a multiple of 40...60 centimeters. The more elements there are in the sheathing, the stronger the structure.
To obtain a high-quality, perfectly leveled frame, a building level is used. This device allows you to accurately align the slats along the marking lines. To align the guides in one plane in the lower and upper parts of the wall, pull the fishing line according to the readings of the building level. Subsequently, the bars are adjusted to fit the cord; in places where the products sag, wooden wedges are installed, which are attached to the base with self-tapping screws.
Installation of wooden sheathing for lining
The process of installing wooden sheathing under the lining proceeds according to the following algorithm:
- Processing wooden crafts antiseptic.
- We draw marking lines on the wall.
- To create a flat plane, we fix the profiles at the top and bottom of the wall, then at the corners of the room.
- When all the elements are fixed, we proceed to the installation of horizontal or vertical slats.
We install each of the elements according to the building level indications. If necessary, place pieces of plastic under the guides in places where there are significant gaps with the wall. You can also use wood chips for this, but they will not withstand prolonged use. To securely fasten the frame, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws of different lengths.
All electrical wiring under the frame is laid in corrugation, which will prevent possible fire of the material.
To make the wooden sheathing resistant to moisture, all profiles are impregnated with a water-repellent solution.
Installation of a metal frame for lining
The technology for installing metal sheathing under the lining is similar to installing a wooden frame.
- First, we stretch a cord at the top and bottom of the wall, which will serve as a guide for the guides.
- We apply marking lines on the wall every 40-60 centimeters and install metal hangers in their direction.
- These parts are fixed to the base surface using dowels or self-tapping screws.
- Now you can proceed to installing the metal profile for the frame. Upper and bottom side each element is adjusted to the cord and secured to the girths with screws.
- Now you need to check the position of the guide with a building level and fix it in the places where the hangers are installed.
To simplify the work of leveling the sheathing frame, it is recommended to use a laser level. The beams of this device will serve as a guide for installing profiles.
Fastening the lining to the sheathing
Fastening the lining to the frame depends on the type of material and type of guides. Thus, the finishing is fixed to a metal profile using self-tapping screws.
Plastic products for wooden parts secured with staplers, and wooden materials fixed with nails.
For getting ideal surface clamps are used. Such parts are fixed in wooden or steel guides with screws. The protruding part of the clamp securely holds the groove of the lining. The more fasteners that hold a particular product, the stronger the coating will be.
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Lathing under the lining greatly facilitates the process of external and interior decoration, even the additional troubles of arranging it should not be exaggerated. The benefits of this stage are significant, especially if you have noticeable defects on the walls, which will not allow you to install the lining directly on a steep surface.
Why is it necessary to install sheathing under the lining?
Regardless of the material of the lining, whether it is natural or not, the main factor determining the quality of the finish is the degree of evenness of the wall on which it will be attached. Everyone knows that planks can be attached directly to the wall, but each defect (depression, bulge) will cause a slight distortion or difference in the level of the rows, etc. Why will imperfection move from row to row, increasingly gaining visual strength, and ultimately the last row you will have a completely crooked look, and there is nothing you can do to close it or correct it.
To prevent deformities from occurring, they first install the sheathing under the lining, and this technique is used in almost 99% of cases, because it is ideal smooth walls neither in old Soviet houses nor in new ones. Even if outwardly you do not see unevenness, test the wall using a level or plumb line, measure its length at the bottom and at the top, and the hidden enemy of a beautiful finish will be revealed. The essence of the lathing is simple: it is a kind of mesh made of wood or metal (plastic is also found today), which helps to raise the lining above the wall, and the evenness and attractiveness of the finish will depend only on the level of the lathing, but the imperfections of the wall will be hidden under this frame.
Lathing for lining - choosing material
Today, there are three types of materials for sheathing, all of them have their own advantages and disadvantages; we will try to briefly touch on the most important ones. Let's start, perhaps, with wood, as the most familiar and accessible material to us. Bars with a parameter of 2.5-5 cm are used under the sheathing. This range is given for the possibility of choice optimal option For different types lining, because it also comes not only from wood. Basically, you should focus on the fact that the frame must support the weight of the finish and not burden the room, taking up excess space. After all, to fasten light lining it is not at all worth taking the largest bars.
But everyone knows the disadvantages of wood: easy flammability and intolerance to moisture. Of course, today all this can be solved with the help of numerous impregnations, but you can change your habits a little and choose a metal profile. These are galvanized corners, from which the same mesh-like frame is built, onto which the lining dies are then attached. It does not have the disadvantages of wood, but has its own, for example, a high price. Plastic frame not at all as accessible as the previous two, and very specific, produced more often for special needs than for common use. Therefore, it can be ignored.
The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of lining.
How to make a sheathing for lining - methods of fastening
Counting the number required material for the sheathing, they start with the project, that is, how it will look (the mesh or guides will be in only one plane), what size the planks of the lining are planned, which will be used for finishing, whether the room will be insulated (then the insulation is placed in the sheathing). When calculating the geometry, you should remember that first a frame is made around the perimeter, and then intermediate ribs of the sheathing are mounted at the same distance from each other. The distance between them should be such that the lining strips do not bend.
If the planks are long, then several supporting elements of the sheathing should be placed under them. If you use insulation, you should also take into account its dimensions, for example, the parameters of a mineral wool sheet. Moreover, the sheathing cell needs to be made a little narrower (literally a centimeter) so that the insulation fits tightly. At the stage of creating the sheathing, all communications are laid, they will successfully hide under the lining, without bothering the eye on top of the finish, in this, so to speak, additional bonus use of this framework.
The location of the lathing can be horizontal (the bars are located only parallel to the floor), vertical (perpendicular to the floor) and using a counter-lattice (this is the mesh-like frame). The latter option is rarely used; then another layer of bars is attached perpendicularly on top of one layer, resulting in a grid with square cells. This is done when using insulation or for increased ventilation of the finish.. And the direction of a conventional sheathing is determined only by the location of the lining strips; the bars and trim strips must be perpendicular.
If the lining is attached parallel to the floor, then the sheathing bars should be vertical; when the planks are located perpendicular to the floor, then the sheathing should be horizontal.
How to make a wooden sheathing?
If your choice fell on wooden sheathing, then further you will find everything necessary advice and recommendations for correct installation. We will not discuss how to make sheathing for lining from other materials due to their rare use in private repairs.
How to make a wooden sheathing - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Marking the Frame
The frame is considered to be the perimeter, that is, the basis of the foundations, so you will outline the boundaries and know total area, which needs to be covered with intermediate slats located at the same distance from each other. Already at this stage, all defects in the wall should be carefully leveled, because the frame will be used as a guide for filling and leveling all intermediate support elements. To do this, actively use a plumb line or a building level (depending on the direction of the sheathing). In case of uneven contact of the block with the wall, place substrates (wedges) under it. This way you will achieve a flat surface that will rest securely on the wall and not dangle in the air.
Sometimes you will have to work in reverse order, do not put additional material, and grind down the existing one, make the bars a little thinner to level the base. To understand whether to lay down material or cut it off, when marking, you need to determine the nature and number of irregularities in the wall, calculate the most protruding part, the amount of its protrusion, as well as the number and nature of smaller defects. After weighing all this, you can decide what will be more practical and easier to do.
Step 2: Frame installation
Having marked everything and determined how to eliminate defects, it’s time to attach the guides around the perimeter. This is done with dowels and screws, and the fasteners should meet every 25 cm. Having created the edging of the sheathing, check the uniformity of the created plane with a level. The frame also includes fastening the beams around the openings for windows and doors; they also need to be surrounded, as it were, with a wooden border in order to properly secure the lining there.
Step 3: Creating the intermediate part of the sheathing
Now all the remaining material for the planned project is being filled in. Do not try to place the ends of the intermediate bars close to the frame along the perimeter, and there is no point in connecting them. Leave a small gap in case the wood expands or shrinks, so that these parts do not warp each other in case of seasonal changes. They also need to be secured with dowels and screws, so even without fixing them to the frame, the intermediate elements will hold together well.
You should start fastening each beam in two places - one screw at the top and bottom. Then examine the entire wall, which defects fall under the fixed beam, determine the type of substrate, level the plane using a level or plumb line, and only then fasten the entire structure with a screw. This is how each batten of the sheathing is verified, and as it is ready, periodically inspect everything to ensure compliance.
Step 4: Finish work
When you have secured all the beams, you should do a final level check. Why do we place such emphasis on this in every step, because this is why the lathing is done, in order to perfectly align the wall. Otherwise, finishing with clapboard will immediately reveal the imperfections of your home, so mistakes here are unacceptable. If the check shows that the wall has become level, you need to do finishing touch– treat the wood with impregnations against mold, fungi and fire. After they have dried, you can begin the planned finishing of the room.
Cladding surfaces with clapboard is carried out in several interconnected stages, each of which requires a special approach. Careful implementation of all technological procedures is a guarantee that it will be possible to obtain a reliable coating with excellent properties and environmental friendliness. The material is ideal for any type of work.
Lining - is a board ( different thicknesses), which is made from various types of wood. The material got its name because of its original place of use. Namely, train cars, the internal surfaces of which were lined with small wooden slats, which created an excellent microclimate. Currently, wood products are returning to their former popularity, which decreased slightly when plastic and MDF options began to appear.
The modern construction market offers a large assortment types of lining It is necessary to take into account that covering walls with clapboard with your own hands requires a balanced approach. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the product at the stage of its purchase. Pay attention to the following points:
- Correct storage of purchased goods. Packages must be stored horizontally on a support.
- Humidity level warehouse should be within normal limits.
- It is not allowed to place the product in an open space, exposed to sunlight.
You should also pay attention to the expiration date on the label.
All information about the storage and shelf life of the lining must be indicated on the packaging of the material
This precaution is necessary in order to level out possible risks. The fact is that work with the lining is carried out only after they are completely convinced that the material meets all standards.
On a note! You should purchase the product with the required reserve, which is equal to ten percent. To obtain exact amount elements, preliminary calculations are carried out, and a diagram is drawn up. It is important to consider that the width of each fragment is measured according to the internal depth. That is, it is necessary to subtract the depth of the groove (10-12 mm).
It is necessary to purchase material with a margin of 10% Material processing
After the purchase required quantity products and fasteners, the question immediately arises: how to properly cover walls with clapboard? But this is not a priority task. You need to know that the material needs pre-processing, because no actions other than manufacturing are performed in production. Therefore, the following manipulations are performed:
- Coniferous wood types require complete degreasing. All resin stains are removed. The boards are washed well with acetone (a 25% solution is required). Next, wipe thoroughly with rags previously soaked in water. After all actions, the products are dried.
- To obtain the same surface shade, each fragment is treated with a pre-prepared mixture. It consists of hydrogen peroxide and acid (oxalic). The solution is prepared based on the type of wood.
- All damage, even minor ones, are repaired with putty. It is better to choose a mixture for wood. You can buy it at the store or prepare it yourself.
- If it is necessary to change the shade, then use stain or other special impregnations that preserve the texture of the wood.
Processing the lining allows you to extend its service life and change the color of the material Of course, you can find products that will be pre-treated, but their cost will be significantly yours.
On a note! Pre-treatment cannot be skipped. This would be a gross violation of the technology of covering surfaces with clapboards.
There are two main options for covering the surface with clapboard: adhesive and frame. The first requires a perfectly flat plane. Therefore, the preferred method is the construction of a sheathing. In addition, it allows you to create additional space for insulating the room.
The construction of the frame gives additional features for room insulation To attach the lining to the wall you will need:
- Tool. In this case, you need to prepare: a drill with various attachments, a level (plumb bob), a hammer, pliers, electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
- Slats for the frame. A solid wooden beam with a cross-section of 30*60 mm is ideal for this purpose. The substrates are immediately prepared. They are used to level racks.
On a note! If the surface has a significant slope, then setting up a wooden beam will be a rather complicated procedure. In this case, a metal profile is used.
- Fasteners: self-tapping screws, dowels, nails, clamps; if required, then additional elements for the frame (suspension).
You should know that before covering with clapboard, even if you use frame method, required preliminary preparation surfaces. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that the old decorative layer is removed, and all defects are well covered. Additionally, priming is carried out.
Creating a sheathing
The lathing is carefully attached to the wall. The order of placement of the slats is determined by the selected laying scheme of the lining.
Scheme for creating sheathing for lining- The timber is treated with fire-resistant impregnation and protection against mold. Wood paneling assumes that the wall will be dry.
- The slats should be perpendicular to the decorative boards.
- A uniform distance is established between the slats, the step of which is 40-50 cm.
- Be sure to leave a gap between the ceiling and floor. This is especially important for wooden houses, which are subject to constant shrinkage.
- Levelness of installation of the frame for sheathing wooden clapboard– is carefully checked. To do this, use a building level and plumb lines.
- If an empty space is formed between the wall and the lath, then it is filled with prepared dies.
The empty space between the slats and the wall is filled with wooden dies On a note! Lathing makes it possible to finish the walls with an additional layer of insulation. It is fixed directly between the posts.
Selecting a fixation option
Immediately determine the method of fixation. After all, paneling can be done different methods:
Installing the lining on clamps allows you to make the fastenings invisible The necessary fasteners are selected based on the specific situation. Currently, clamps are becoming increasingly popular.
Fastening decorative material
Fastening the lining begins with the material being brought into the room and left for two days. This time is necessary for the product to fully acclimatize. If installation is carried out immediately, then there is a high probability that the elements will begin to warp - the structure will become deformed. Work is carried out only at positive temperatures and humidity, which is at least 60%.
The lining is first brought into the room and left for two days. The general technique is:
- Often, boards are installed horizontally. Therefore, the first element is installed at the bottom so that the tenon points upward.
- Fixation starts from the corner, which is located away from the main entrance to the room.
- The first board is well checked for level, the horizontal and vertical planes are taken into account. If even small deviations are allowed, they will become very noticeable when the top panel is attached.
- The first fragment is fixed. The possibility of deviations is checked again.
- Next, the following elements are installed, which are first grooved and then fixed.
But how to cover a wall with clapboard vertically? The procedure is no different from the previous version:
- The elements are placed from the far corner. The first fragment is exposed and secured.
- The following elements are inserted into the groove and fixed. It is important to check that the joint is completely connected. To do this, lightly tap the rail along the edge.
- For this method, a wider rail is used. It creates a beautiful surface with fewer joints.
If you have experience, you can finish the walls in one day (even taking into account the frame). When the installation is completely completed, attach decorative elements: corners and baseboards. The surface is well impregnated with stain and varnished.
Exterior decoration of the house
Decorating the house with clapboards on the outside Cladding the house with clapboards on the outside almost completely replicates interior work. The procedure is divided into three stages: marking, installation of sheathing and cladding. But there are some nuances:
- Two racks must be installed at each corner of the house.
- Window and door openings are framed with a profile (beam).
- For the work, we use high-quality boards that do not have falling knots.
- Fixation is performed end-to-end.
- The elements are attached with the groove down. This helps prevent precipitation from accumulating.
If you understand the basic rules and study the chosen fixation method well, then the work is done quite quickly. The result will be a surface that will bring comfort and warmth to the interior. natural wood and will delight you with its beauty for many years.
Hello, I am interested in the issue of installation wooden lining on the metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other mounting methods (profile for GP)?
Dmitry, Ukraine.
Hello, Dmitry from Ukraine!
You must have some kind of unusual situation, if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.
It is clear that the wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal made of galvanized or aluminum) in the form of slats. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.
A metal profile of the GP type (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet whose end resembles a trapezoidal contour with wide flanges and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or the GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has small width mushrooms and a large bottom width.
Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used for fencing facade surfaces buildings, indoors, sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for roofing.
If you wish to attach wooden clapboard to metal profile, it is clear that it is impossible to do this with nails, since, having pierced the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is capable of piercing galvanized standard thickness. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But, with rare exceptions, they don’t fasten the lining like this.
Theoretically, it is possible to sew the lining onto the GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably with metal screws, which have a finer knurling (pitch) of thread. Such screws will hold more firmly, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws are either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the screw, and not separately). Roofing screws should be used with caution, as they can turn the lining with their self-tapping edges.
But this is a labor-intensive method; more often they use a method where they are first mounted on a metal profile wooden plank or a block with several screws, and then the lining itself is nailed directly to this bar-bar. This will make your life easier, since you won’t have to fasten each panel with screws directly to the metal.
/If the lining will be exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much preferable to nails, which can be torn out when wet boards warp./
Two more points. Don't forget about relative position lining and metal profiles. The lining must be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly hit the fasteners on the top of the profile waves, and not just anywhere. /If you first attach the wooden planks-bars, which were discussed above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction./
In addition, it is always very desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. This can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films for similar purposes.
Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out from the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing is that if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be covered.
And lastly, do not forget that you need to balance your efforts when tightening screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures to prevent deflections of the profile sheets from the applied forces.
This is my take on your question.