I prepared for this process for a long time, because I understood that it would be big job. As a result, everything took more than a month. But now I have clear experience.
Before taking on the practical part, I read a lot of different texts with reviews and experience of craftswomen. Therefore, please listen to safety advice, because no one wants to lose their eyesight.
Epoxy resin for decorative works- This modern material, allowing you to make many discoveries and accomplishments. But the information on it is quite one-sided and limited. Therefore, when I decided to create a report on technical operation and exploring the possibilities, I really needed one source in which I could find the maximum number of answers. I hope now I will be able to do something that will create a more complete picture of the possibilities and technical features when working with epoxy resin.
Introduction
Despite the fact that the phrase “epoxy resin” contains the word _resin_, associated with a natural material, in essence it is actually a very chemical product. In order not to go into details and chemistry lessons, I will simply explain some safety features.
Since "epoxy resin" is used both in construction and finishing works, I still suggest separating which resin is for which work. Modern epoxy resin for decorative work from trusted manufacturers does not harm your health (subject to safety precautions), at the same time, technical resin has a pronounced chemical aroma, fumes irritate mucous tissues and, unfortunately, there are known cases of visual impairment and other health complications after working with epoxy resin technical purpose. So don't skimp on your art supplies or ignore the contents of your resin packaging and you'll be fine.
Chapter 1.
Let's study the content.
The material for my experiments was kindly provided by the store -
hobby center "Creative Hands" And I will experiment with this product:
Epoxy resin Crystal Resin. Two-component.
PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES:
- Avoid contact with skin of hands and mucous membranes. In case of contact, remove the resin with a napkin or cloth and rinse the area of contact.
- Do not use on items in contact with food.
- Virtually odorless, does not irritate the eyes and nasal mucous membranes, but how general recommendation However, it is best to work in a well-ventilated area.
Package Contents:
Two bottles: the resin itself and the fixative for it.
- two measuring cups
- two wooden sticks designed for mixing elements
- plastic gloves for safe work.
Well, actually, you see that the manufacturer has already taken care of our health and safety from the very beginning.
Description of capabilities and applications:
Allows you to achieve the effect glass surface, transparent and durable. Used to create jewelry, decoration various surfaces. The recommended maximum allowable layer is 5 cm. Thin layer creates the effect of a glossy surface on the product. Used on plastic, glass, earthenware, metal, silicone, painted wood. Resistant to light and water. It can also be used as glue; after drying, it has shown itself to be one of the strongest adhesive substances, much stronger than any super-glues or just glues; firmly glues metal parts, porcelain, stone.
Hardening time: superficial -12 hours. full – 24 hours. During curing, air must be supplied to the coated product (i.e. curing does not occur in a tightly closed space).
Store the components in closed bottles for 6 months after opening, at a temperature of 15°C - 25°C. Mixed components can no longer be stored. Protect from exposure low temperatures. To clean the decorated surface, you can use regular soap and water.
Chapter 2.
Let's get to work.
Manufacturer's instructions:
1. Place 1 portion of Cristal B fixative in a dry and clean container, then 2 portions of Cristal A epoxy resin.
2. Mix well throughout the container (incomplete mixing does not guarantee hardening; mixing too quickly can lead to the appearance of air bubbles).
3. Pour into mold or onto surface, depending on application.
4. Leave to dry for 24 hours. Hardening occurs gradually and depends on the ambient temperature.
I used a clean plastic cup, to which, according to the manufacturer's recommendations, I added (measured using the measuring cups included in the package) 1 portion of fixative (bottle "B") and 2 portions of epoxy resin (bottle "A"). For information, after you have finished working, the tools (mixing stick, measuring cups, as well as the dishes in which you mixed it all) can be wiped with a dry cloth, after which your tools can be reused. But of course, we will no longer use them for eating or preparing food.
Why is it important to maintain proportions correctly?
If the proportions are violated, our resin simply will not harden. It may remain sticky to the touch or cloudy. Cracks and other things may appear on the surface. Therefore, if you are afraid that dosing with measuring cups may fail you, you can use plastic disposable syringes for greater accuracy.
As soon as I started mixing the resin components, my contents looked a little alarming:
A liquid has a denser or more viscous substance than plain water, so when stirring (even if it is long, slow and tedious), you really shouldn’t rush. I sat, watched TV, making smooth stirring movements with a stick inside the bowl with the mixture. Sometimes, with careless movement, air bubbles appeared in the liquid, but I squeezed them out using the same stick and continued mixing.
After 15 minutes of gentle stirring, my mixture had already reached the stage of diffusion I needed:
At this stage of the process, my mixture is too thin for the purposes I have set for myself, so I put the cup aside and wait about 40 minutes - 1 hour. During this time, the mixture becomes more viscous, similar to medium-thick jelly.
Well, then I start further work.
Chapter 3.
Application to the surface. Filling out forms.
Application/filling option No. 1. Using molds for filling.
In hobby and craft stores you can find special silicone molds for filling with epoxy resin. For example like these:
They are good because they are made of a plastic material that makes it easier to remove the frozen form, and the material itself does not react with the epoxy resin and no gluing occurs.
There is also the experience of other craftsmen that you can treat the mold you need with various preparations that will not allow the resin to stick to your mold. For example, Vaseline, but after it the surface becomes cloudy and unevenness may remain from your “smearing”. Or the contents of colorless gel suppositories are used. They also protect against gluing and facilitate further smooth removal of your workpiece from the mold.
I didn’t have such “units”, so I experimented.
To begin with, I tested the silicone molds I had available for working with plastic.
She looks like this:
Since I am not sure that this mold is suitable for epoxy resin, I fill a small area with the prepared liquid mass at my own risk.
Later I find out that this experiment was successful. But more on that later.
In the meantime, I leave the mold with the resin and proceed to next stage experiment.
Application/filling option No. 2. Filling out the given forms.
Attention. Forms to fill out from polymer clay I prepared in advance, i.e. before mixing the epoxy resin components.
I really like glass because it maintains its transparency and purity, while at the same time I can work with color filling. And when I was drawing up a plan for myself to experiment with epoxy resin, I decided to make an imitation of stained glass figures.
To do this, I went online and started Googling suitable pictures for myself.
Having found what I need, I print them out and use them as a stencil, placing them under glass. Now I start working with polymer clay. I squeeze out plastic cords from an extruder syringe (if you don’t have one, roll out the cords with your hands, you can do it directly on the glass) and lay out the cord (lightly pressing it against the glass surface) along the lines of my stencil.
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It is very important that the forms I laid out are level and pressed tightly against the glass, because... in the subsequent experiment we will need their even base. But we just can’t smear them, because we will also need some even height for the sides of our forms.
After the work of laying out the forms is completed, I send everything to bake directly on the glass. The baking temperature for polymer clay is 110-130 degrees. Baking time 20-25 minutes.
After the forms are baked and cooled (we follow safety precautions, do not grab hot things and wait for them to cool completely), our polymer clay is very easy to remove from smooth surface glass
Our blanks:
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Now after all this big preparatory stage Let's start pouring directly :)
Thanks to Maria Glukhova for her lesson.
To do this, I stretch regular wide tape onto the surface (my previous glass, on which I sculpted forms from polymer clay) sticky side up and start laying out my forms for filling.
Can be used for filling completely different shapes. For example (you can see it in the top picture) I used a round flat metal base with wood inside. I pressed it onto our taped surface and inserted metal flowers there.
I also use other suitable forms. For example, for more than 2 years I had hardware frames hanging around idle, which I didn’t know where to attach. Looks like there is a use for them now :)
The filling for these frames can be anything. I took small charms with a flower, removed the eyelet for fastening with pliers and put them in frames.
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I do the filling with the same mixing stick. My epoxy resin, which has been sitting for about an hour, is already quite thick, so I use a stick to scoop out the amount I need and apply it.
“Epoxy does not contain solvents, so it does not shrink when it hardens. In addition, it is viscous, so if you pour it “heaped”, it will leak to the edge and stop there. But it is important not to overdo it.”
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Well, now I’ll tell you about my mistakes during the experiment.
Well, first of all, we must fill it on a horizontal surface. It should not have any slopes or unevenness, otherwise after we apply our liquid, it will flow over the edge.
Secondly, my mistake, which occurred when applying tape to the surface. I didn't check the joints of the tape. Where the joints were weakly glued, the epoxy leaked out under the tape.
Thirdly, using forms glued to the surface of the tape, I did not check or simply accidentally missed the tight fit and gluing of the form.
This is what my mistakes look like:
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I left everything as it is. It seems too late to correct the situation at this stage. I'll come back to this later.
I also continued to experiment.
On the tape surface I drew a shape using a stained glass outline.
Then I filled it with epoxy resin. Looking ahead, I will say that this experiment was a success; outwardly, after hardening, the bead looks the same as in the photo just poured. But since I gave it a stupid and sloppy look from the very beginning, it does not have much aesthetic value. So I won't go back to her anymore. Just know that this option is also quite possible.
I continue to experiment.
I was told that epoxy resin Can be painted with stained glass paints. I'm conducting an experiment.
I dip the tip of a toothpick into the paint and then color my liquid.
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Application/filling option No. 3. surface coating.
Epoxy resin is very popular as a coating on a product. It creates additional thickness and gloss.
To conduct the experiment, I took one of the ready-made polymer clay beads. I applied it. After you have dropped your epoxy resin, you can help it spread over the surface using a toothpick. Just stretch it, moving the tip, the resin will obediently “run” where you need it.
After curing, my bead looked the same as after application - the surface of the bead was covered with a lens.
I also tested this theory, so I won’t return to this bead again, everything seems to be clear with it.
It seems to me that the next experiment will be more interesting. I had a theory in my head that I wanted to test.
For this we need the so-called. “skeleton leaves” (these are real leaves from which the “pulp” has been removed, and the leaf skeleton is dried and tinted with paints. Sold in hobby and craft stores). I cut out smaller leaf shapes from them, the size I need. Then I coat them with nail polish (so that the porous surface of the sheet does not conflict with the epoxy and unnecessary air bubbles are formed) and leave to dry.
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After the varnish on the leaves has completely dried, I glue them to my taped surface. Well, then I apply epoxy resin to them. Next, I leave it to harden along with all my preparations.
Application/filling option No. 4. Pouring of blood vessels.
I still had small glitters left glass bottles. Very cute little simpapuli. And I also messed up a little home flower. Well, as you can already guess, I filled it all with epoxy resin.
I left this jar in a slightly tilted state to harden. We'll get to know what happened later.
Well, now I would like to say more about this method of filling natural materials. Over time they fade and lose their color. And it doesn’t matter whether you filled a “living” object with epoxy resin or an already dried one.
The first large theoretical part of the experiments is completed. Now I'm waiting for the epoxy resin to cure.
To be continued.
Epoxy resin is used everywhere - in construction, repair, for the manufacture of adhesives, self-leveling floors, different areas industry. IN last years Making epoxy-based jewelry - bracelets, beads, brooches - is becoming increasingly popular.
In general, this wonderful material is suitable for realizing the most daring ideas; moreover, it can be painted in a variety of colors. The dye for epoxy resin can be purchased at the store or made with your own hands using available materials.
The need for resin coloring
Color for epoxy, or pigment concentrate - special remedy for coloring resins, changing its basic color. Tinting is done for so-called jewelry resins - epoxies intended for creativity.
Typically, such materials have absolute, crystal transparency, which allows painting in the most original colors. You can also add shine to the product, make color transitions, and play.
Specialized paints
In order not to worry about the coloring result, it is better to use products specifically designed for this. They are sold in craft stores, for artists, and are most often acrylic. Epoxy paint can be of this type:
- single-color - almost all known paint colors are available for sale (blue, yellow, gray and many others, even black and white);
- fluorescent (with phosphor) - can glow in the dark thanks to special components, can be colored or colorless;
- tint matte - gives the epoxy a noble matte finish, which allows you to create stylish jewelry and other products;
- mother-of-pearl or metallic - the finished item will shimmer beautifully;
- with glitter - designed to give sparkling, festive look products.
Depending on the amount of paint, you can provide completely different type finished item. So, if you tint the resin with a drop of dye, the shade of the epoxy resin will be translucent. More dark color can be done by introducing more pigment. In order for the color to become rich and deep, the transparent resin must first be painted in White color, then - to the one needed by the master.
How to tint the material, what paint to choose? Perfect option- buy a product from the same manufacturer that produced the epoxy itself. For example, excellent tinting pastes and powders are produced by Poly Max Dream and MG-Epox-Color. Colors are usually produced in small packages (5–10 g), their price is 50–200 rubles. An example of paint is “Glitter” with sparkles, here are the main colors:
- red;
- green;
- black;
- white;
- brown;
- blue;
- golden;
- purple;
- orange.
The consumption of colors is small, they are very economical. For getting transparent resin add no more than 0.01–0.05% paint (percentage of the total mass of epoxy). To paint an opaque color, 5% color is added to the mixture; this amount is the maximum allowable. Different colors can be mixed to create unique shades.
Tinting with improvised means
You can paint epoxy resin in another way. Pigment substances are not always at hand, sometimes desired color not in the store. Home remedies will come to the rescue. It is important that they do not contain water.
You can paint epoxy using the following means:
- gel pen ink in any color - you just need to squeeze a little ink into the resin, the shade will be bright, saturated;
- ink from a simple pen;
- ordinary oil or stained glass paints for painting, as well as nitro paint, alkyd paint, stain (it is important to introduce the hardener after such products);
- ink for painting polymer clay;
- printer ink, activated carbon (will give a deep black color);
- talcum powder, powder, crushed chalk, kaolin, tooth powder (will provide a white color);
- pharmaceutical green.
For painting to be successful, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations for using paint colors. But what method should be used if homemade, available products are added instead of purchased components? Here are the rules for using dyes:
- amount of oil, alkyd paints, nitro paints are less than 10%, otherwise the epoxy will resemble rubber after hardening;
- other substances are added in a volume of no more than 5–7%;
- some expensive resins do not react to water penetration, but, for the most part, epoxy does not tolerate even accidental moisture and immediately deteriorates;
- you need to work at a temperature of about 22–23 degrees, in this case the coloring and curing of the material will take place without problems.
During tinting, safety precautions should be observed. Gloves are put on your hands, and your respiratory tract must be protected with a respirator. If the resin gets on the skin, wash it with soap.
Some resins contain solvents and should only be handled in a well-ventilated area. Used for mixing substances disposable tableware to throw it away immediately.
To work you need to prepare:
- small disposable spoon;
- cup;
- several syringes;
- dyes;
- bases for filling (forms).
First, a hardener is added to the epoxy. It is sold separately or complete with epoxy, but the instructions always indicate the exact proportions of the components. It is recommended to do mixing in small portions; large volumes become very hot and the resin may deteriorate. Next, the product is poured into glasses depending on how many shades need to be obtained.
Pigment, pearlescent or luminous paint is introduced into the finished epoxy as quickly as possible. Mix the material thoroughly with a spoon for 5–7 minutes until the mass becomes completely homogeneous. Leave the mixture for 15 minutes at room temperature to release liquid bubbles, then pour into the mold. It must be endured required time for complete curing, usually a day.
To achieve transparency, it is better to dilute epoxy with paint in a glass jar. Then you can immediately see how much pigment should be added, and the result will be perfect.
Epoxy resin, which usually does not have its own color, in some cases requires tinting, and we are not even just talking about casting decorative items. In these cases, special colors are used.
For painting epoxy resin, you can use the most different dyes. It is only important to make sure that they do not react with the resin and do not change color when interacting with them. Powder or emulsion dyes can be used, but dyes are not water based will not mix with epoxy resin. Various unexpected effects achieved when using such “handicraft” dyes are actively used in the manufacture of decorative castings. However, when uniform coloring of epoxy resin is necessary, it is most reliable to use special colors. Their use ensures coloring throughout the entire thickness, while physical and mechanical characteristics products do not change or change slightly.
Specialized colors for epoxy resin are supplied in the form of pastes. Such pastes are a colored viscous mass. It has a color that matches the color of the pigment, the shade of which does not change when working with epoxy resin. The paste contains microscopic pigment particles dispersed in some binder mixed with epoxy resin. Dyes can be very diverse and you can always find a suitable one or mix several available ones to obtain the desired shade. At a concentration of less than 0.5%, the color will be light and transparent. When large quantities of dye are added, the color becomes more saturated. As a rule, the content of tinting pastes does not exceed 6% of the mixture volume. To accurately assess the type of product, it is better to prepare the solution in a transparent container, so that you can see the transparency of the layer of the same thickness as the thickness of the planned casting.
The resin is colored before adding the hardener to the mixture. An exception can be made for special decorative resins - they have a long “lifetime” after adding a hardener, so you can tint an already prepared mixture, which makes the final result more accurate. It is recommended to do this immediately before starting the curing procedure and not to store the resulting colored resin. The color is added to the resin in the desired amount and mixed thoroughly. Before use, just in case, you should check the instructions for the colorant to clarify whether it affects the rate of curing of the resin, as happens with some tinting pastes.
Today we will talk about tinting (painting) transparent epoxy resin.
Transparent epoxy resin (MG-EPOX-GLASS) and dyes open up an endless number of options for us color range(it all depends only on your imagination).
The use of these two materials in pairs gives rich colors as well as smooth shades.
To obtain semi-transparent colors, a small drop of dye is enough, then you can mix several translucent shades in the casting, the effect is amazing and very similar to precious stones.
To receive maximum quantity shades, first the epoxy resin must be converted to white (painted), and then a colored dye must be added, so we get smooth transition colors from pale to rich.
Painting epoxy resin white does not mean it is transparent the effect will disappear, we add a minimal amount of epoxy resin dye.
How to check the transparency of colored resin?
It’s very simple, mix epoxy resin and dye in a transparent container, a gap will be visible on the walls and bottom of the container, if the product is 5 mm (thickness), then the container should be 5 mm (thickness), this is the only way you will achieve an ideal result in final product.
There is very interesting technique Epoxy resin painting and subsequent application:
- The blank of the future product must be placed in a horizontal position
- We pour a base layer of epoxy resin (painted or clear),
- Take epoxy of a different color, add solvent 646 or acetone, mix thoroughly until a homogeneous liquid (closer to water) mass is obtained.
- Then, using various available tools, we spray drops onto the workpiece.
The effect will be this: we dilute the epoxy with solvents and when the drops fall on the base layer, it begins to stretch creating chaotic patterns and craters.
(Watch this video to the end and you will understand what we are talking about.)
MG-EPOX-COLOR dyes are compatible with each other, so you can get a maximum of shades!
If you have any questions, write by email, leave comments, or just call:
Heretic 02-05-2007 10:35
So, in fact, we needed “radical black” epoxy. Quite a lot, so the option of scraping pencils had to be put aside as a spare. What else can you mix in to tint? some kind of carbon black? In powder or straight paint from the art store?
Help, who can... Who can, help..
Sincerely.
EgorB 02-05-2007 11:06
Powder toner for printers will help
Gadyukin 02-05-2007 11:46
I made a handle from ebony, there was a bunch of this dye. Probably any loose filler in the form of powder.
A.E. 02-05-2007 13:17
On all sorts of demobilization crafts, the epoxy was tinted with paste from ballpoint pens.
Konstantinich 02-05-2007 13:25
You can get any color by mixing epoxy with nitro paint. A long time ago, for example, I imitated inlay with “mammoth bone” (epoxy + white nitro enamel: 1: 4).
bigdad 02-05-2007 13:39
Udod 02-05-2007 13:45
Modern tinting compounds are mixed with almost all types of paints. I just don’t know if it comes in black.
Heretic 02-05-2007 14:34
quote: Originally posted by bigdad:
Mixing epoxy with artistic oil paints You can get almost any color. Tested many times.
quote: Originally posted by Konstantinych:
You can get any color by mixing epoxy with nitro paint. A long time ago, for example, I imitated “mammoth bone” inlay (epoxy + white nitro enamel: 1: 4)
does the curing time/strength of the cured material vary greatly?
Sincerely.
Konstantinich 02-05-2007 15:39
The polymerization time is accelerated by an order of magnitude.
The strength of the composition after this is excellent, like bone.
spit 02-05-2007 17:23
I used activated carbon powder for the black - very successful, and flour for the white - it turned out like bone, the epoxy was yellow
Serjant 02-05-2007 19:46
When casting a stock for a rifle (pneuma), the simplest recipe was used.
mixed epoxy and poured ink from a regular refill. prerequisite is very thorough mixing. The color was simply controlled by a drop of ink and mixing. what kind of colors were you looking for?
The rifle has been serving faithfully for 8 years now, the epoxy is holding up tightly, does not paint anything, the rifle is actively used as a screw for entertainment.