It would seem, what could there be in common? What difference does it make where and how a plant grows, what does agriculture, and even Natural farming, have to do with it?
Immunity is just that, immunity. But let's remember what immunity is and what causes it?
Immunity is immunity, and it is determined by the immune system - a very complex one, designed, on the one hand, to maintain the constancy of the cellular composition of the body, and on the other, to repel the aggression of pathogens that have penetrated or are trying to penetrate the body: viruses, fungi, bacteria and other pathogens.
IN in this case immunity is considered as the body's ability to distinguish foreign material from its own.
The science of immunity is a very complex science, so as not to “burden” readers with terms, I will only say that immunity occurs after contact with pathogens.
It can be acquired and hereditary (natural), which also occurs after contact, but is inherited.
And here is the main point for understanding: any immunity can arise when there is contact between the body and the pathogen, in other words, the body becomes ill in a mild form, when the body’s immune system has developed antibodies against the pathogen (specific proteins against a specific pathogen).
At first glance, this seems difficult to understand.
But if the body does not get sick (in a mild form), then immunity will not develop; when immunity (immunity) has developed, then the body will never get sick again or will get sick in a mild form.
By the way, vaccination is used on this principle in humans and animals - the introduction of weakened pathogens into the body with the aim of developing the body's immune system immunity to this disease in the future.
Until now, it was believed that the immune systems of plants and humans (as well as animals) function according to completely different laws.
And the main argument in favor of this opinion was the absence in plants of special cells similar to our lymphocytes (and others) and special organs that produce these cells.
Of course, plants have nothing similar to our spleen and bone marrow.
However, as knowledge has been studied and accumulated about the nature of plant disease resistance, the differences in the mechanisms of immunity of plants and animals no longer seem so striking.
Now more and more data is accumulating about the similarities between them.
Although plants do not produce specialized cells, each plant cell contains elements responsible for immunity and the fight against pathogens.
For example, immediately after the penetration (germination) of a pathogenic fungus even into one plant cell, the plant begins to produce special substances that quickly kill the pathogenic fungus (pathogens of late blight, scab, fusarium, etc.)
The signal for the production of these antibody substances is the special substances of the fungus itself, secreted by it as a result of its vital activity.
These antigen substances indicate the presence of an aggressor to the plant, and it begins to fight.
Thus, it turned out that the substances that perform a signaling function and warn the body about the penetration of a stranger have a similar chemical nature both in pathogens of animal diseases and in pathogens of plant diseases, while their effect and the mechanism of the antigenic reaction of organisms are the same.
From all of the above, it follows that there are similarities between animals and plants in terms of immune defense.
But if science has invented vaccines for humans and animals, and to create immunity - weakened or dead pathogens, by introducing them into the body (vaccinations) we trigger the mechanism for developing immunity - immunity, then what about plants?
There are no vaccines.
But what can serve as vaccines - weakened pathogens?
What can weaken them until they develop only immunity and reduce the ability to cause the disease itself?
No, not the chemical poisons with which we “flooded” the gardens, killing all living things: beneficial microorganisms and pathogens at the same time.
What have we achieved with this? Reducing diseases? On the contrary, their heyday! You will ask why?
Because, by treating with chemicals thoughtlessly and uncontrollably, not observing dosages, but acting on the principle “the more, the better”, we, without wanting it, have created very resistant forms of pathogens of both plants, humans and animals - such forms , which no longer kill even the strongest chemicals.
And “science” comes up with more and more “strong” and even more terrible ones, instead of becoming true science and returning to the forces of Nature and the natural processes of developing immunity by plants in this natural environment.
Many people are now laughing at this remark, and in vain.
Experience shows that plants grown on specially created soils using natural technology, using biocomposts: worm composts, EM composts and mushroom composts, rich in a variety of beneficial microflora, are less susceptible to various fungal and bacterial diseases and do not get sick at all, both in open and closed ground (greenhouses).
Plants grown on soils that have been previously subjected to heat treatment or spilled with “harmless potassium permanganate” (where beneficial and pathogenic microflora are completely or partially destroyed) feel comfortable in initial period growth, but are very susceptible to disease over time, then become sick, stunted and often die.
Why does this happen?
The plant grew in “sterile” conditions. It did not have contact with a weakened pathogen, immunity was not developed, and at the first contact with a “strengthened” pathogen, the plant becomes seriously ill and quickly, without having time to develop immunity.
It is the beneficial microflora of composts that weakens the pathogenic ability of pathogens, and sometimes even “kills” them with their secretions - antibiotics.
It turns out that with “good” intentions – chemical treatments – we create a trap for ourselves, kill our helpers (useful microbes) and increase the pathogenic effects of pathogenic ones.
You should not “sterilize” the soil with boiling water, steaming, or chemical treatments, but “revitalize” it by adding biocomposts to the soil, enriching it with beneficial microflora.
And here a second point arises, very important for understanding: by doing this we do not kill all life in such soils, but create a reasonable balance of forces using natural technology between pathogenic and beneficial microorganisms.
Thus, under the influence of beneficial microflora, we weaken the disease-causing “abilities” of pathogens, turning them into a kind of vaccines, which, when in contact with plants, do not cause disease in them, but only create the so-called “intense” immunity, very strong and persistent .
Pathogens will be present in the garden, but they will not be able to harm the plants because they will not be able to cause disease.
That is, it is necessary not to “kill enemies”, but to strengthen the health of the plants themselves by creating stable immunity and increasing the level of nutrition due to natural humus.
After the discovery of viruses, fungi and bacteria by science, it was believed for a long time that they were the main cause of disease.
But now we know that pathogens are just a possible cause of the disease. Whether we get sick or not, as well as our plants, largely depends on ourselves.
Both we and plants live in a world that is literally teeming with microbes.
It is microorganisms that are the true masters of our planet, directly and figuratively this word.
If they themselves were the cause of the disease, then we would get sick all the time, just like plants. But this doesn't happen.
The disease occurs only when the human and plant body itself has lost the ability to resist unfavorable environmental factors; we say “the immune system is weakened.”
Due to the high adaptive capacity of microorganisms, an entire era of production of pesticides (and other chemicals) has only led to the emergence of a huge number of new pathogens that are absolutely resistant to tens and hundreds of chemicals.
In addition, it turned out that the toxic substances themselves, which persist in nature for an extremely long time, are also toxic to humans.
And due to the fact that it is impossible to create pesticides that affect only pathogenic types of microorganisms, the use of pesticides also led to the destruction of beneficial soil microflora that improves plant nutrition (humus) and promotes adaptation to unfavorable external conditions (creation of immunity).
The use of mechanisms to increase the immunity of plants themselves is real alternative chemical means of control.
The simplest and most effective way to immunize plants with weakened types of pathogenic microorganisms is to use biocomposts (worm compost, EM compost, mushroom compost) for potted crops and closed ground and elements of natural farming in open ground.
Therefore, natural farming and its elements (biocomposts) are the main factor in plant immunization, maintaining immunity, as well as direct protection from pathogens by rhizosphere (root) soil microflora.
It’s time to “wake up” from the ignorance of pseudoscience that recommends the use of pesticides, stop destroying all life on planet Earth and return to Natural agriculture, which can revive the former ecology of the planet and the former health of plants, animals and Man himself.
I wish you understanding and good luck.
Reference:
Alexander Ivanovich Kuznetsov is a resident of the village of Altai, microbiologist and agroecologist, head of the MIKOBIOTECH fruit nursery, innovator, tester of varieties and natural agricultural technology. For many years he has been successfully growing fruit and berry crops, as well as seedlings, using his unique agricultural technology. He conducts his own selection, including rootstock forms, focusing primarily on winter hardiness and stability.
They say that agronomists are professionals, and summer residents are amateurs. Hardly. Read the observations and reasoning of the author of the letter, and you will be convinced of the opposite. This is real science, and even convincingly confirmed by practice!
Goodbye digging!
I have lived in a private house all my life and have been accustomed to working on the land since childhood.
We always dug before, mainly in the spring, picked out the roots down to the smallest, added compost, manure, mineral fertilizers. When I started gardening on my own, I began to use preparations for ovaries, for root growth, and for grass on paths (herbicides). And 10 years ago I noticed that they had disappeared earthworms and ladybugs. But aphids, various types of caterpillars and butterflies appeared in abundance. It was impossible to get rid of late blight and other diseases. Not only has the harvest become scanty, it is also inedible. And I began to look for ways to resuscitate my country.
The soil on my site is sandy. But methods of healing and improvement are suitable for soils of any type. I read a lot of books and listened to people using natural farming methods. Now I know so much about this that it is difficult to surprise me with anything, nevertheless I am constantly interested and find something new. So, in 2009, I became an active advocate of natural farming.
The last time I dug up the soil was in the fall of 2008. In the spring I made permanent beds. At first there were trenches, and now I have drip irrigation everywhere, so all the plantings are on an almost flat surface (photo 1). In our area, it is undesirable to make high beds, since winds constantly blow, often dry winds, and greatly dry out the soil.
The first thing to do is set up permanent beds. Narrow ones are better.
But how to make them needs to be decided individually on each site, depending on the climate and terrain. The main thing: you can’t walk on the beds! We don’t dig the soil in them – we just loosen them by 5-7 cm. With what? And the more familiar - a hand cultivator, a hoe, flat cutters.
The next stage is mandatory mulching. There was an excellent article about this by I.L. Evstafieva “Mulch works for us.”
There's everything there for beginners. I would like to add: I tested different types of mulch - organic matter, thick paper, black mulch material, newspapers.
Paper and fabric inhibit weed growth well, but do not retain moisture well and compact the soil. I liked to first cover it with newspapers (when planting vegetables, especially root vegetables - photo 2), and then, when the plants begin to grow, cover them with grass mulch (photo 3).
After harvesting, it is advisable to leave all the tops in place until spring - then it will be easy to rake everything onto the paths and leave it there. And it will be cleaner to walk in wet weather, and there will be fewer weeds. In winter, the tops will serve to retain snow, and in spring - to retain moisture. If you don’t want to leave it, you don’t need to pull it out by the roots, but cut it off and leave the roots in the ground. Next season, the plants can be moved when planting, and the remaining roots will structure the soil, creating channels for feeding the plants with subsoil moisture and air. We do the same with weeds.
In the fall, we leave the beds closed (photo 4) - this way worms and effective microorganisms work in them longer, and in the spring we rake the tops onto the paths as early as possible to warm the ground. It is impossible to mulch plantings early: the plants may die due to cold air coming from the depths.
Where can I get mulch?
To do this, you should plant green manure.
Nowadays it is not a problem to purchase green manure seeds; there is also a lot of literature about them. For beginners, I recommend starting with mustard.
It can be sown in the fall, after or shortly before harvesting, but in such a way that it has time to grow at least 20-25 cm. Then prune it, leaving the roots in the ground and the tops in the garden until spring. Can be sown in early spring. Then, when planting seedlings, make holes among the grown mustard. Mustard will shade the seedlings from the sun and protect them from wind and cold weather. After two weeks, cut the mustard at soil level and leave it in place as mulch.
Mustard cannot be planted in front of cruciferous vegetables - they are from the same family. It is better to plant phacelia throughout the warm season and for all crops, but its seeds are not cheap. You can use oilseed radish, rapeseed, oats, etc.
In addition to producing mulch, green manure plays the role of a replacement crop, i.e. the previous culture can be returned to the same place next season. For small areas this is important. Each plant has its own nutritional needs; they remove various microelements from the soil in different ways. Therefore, it is necessary to leave all plant residues where they grew, in the form of mulch, so that next season they will return what they took to those who will grow after them.
To quickly decompose organic matter, fertilize, remove weeds and unnecessary growth, combat diseases and pests, and fermentation of organic waste, it is necessary to use preparations with effective microorganisms. Now there are several types of them. It is advisable to purchase it in concentrated form and prepare the solutions yourself, it is more reliable.
“Herbal tea” is prepared by many people. As a rule, its smell is not the best. And if you add a drug with microorganisms, it will be much more effective and without an unpleasant odor. The most powerful fertilizer is silage, i.e. fermented grass. By adding half a bucket of silage, the compost will be ready in two to three weeks.
There is no need to remove all the weeds until they are sterile! It is advisable to leave islands of “wild nature”. Predatory insects that destroy pests will find their refuge in them.
We also use mixed plantings. With the correct selection of plants in one bed or in a berry garden, several goals are achieved - protection from diseases and pests, sheltering the earth from drying out and overheating, improving the taste of fruits, etc.
Let's sum it up
Using the principles of natural farming, we improve and heal the soil, get a clean and tasty harvest (believe me, the taste changes so much that you won’t want anything else), the quantity will also increase (photo 5-8). At the same time, labor costs will be significantly reduced - watering less often, less water consumption. There is almost no weeding, no digging required at all! We don’t waste our energy; we have more time for other activities and rest.
I want to make a reservation: in the first season, not everything is so rosy. You'll have to rebuild your system to new way, and this will require effort and time. But then everything will pay off with interest!
Don't believe me? Try it on one or two beds, on one tree or shrub, and then compare with traditional processing. The main thing is to do everything correctly and patiently.
Human health directly depends on nutrition. Eating foods with GMOs or grown with the use of pesticides and fertilizers leads to irreversible consequences for the body. Modern agronomists propose turning to the experience of our ancestors and making natural farming the basis of agriculture.
Organic farming - what is it?
Ecological farming differs from traditional soil cultivation by its gentle approach to natural ecosystems existing in nature. The use of pesticides and deep cultivation has become detrimental to the land, reduced fertility, disrupted the natural cycle of substances, and negated the benefits of worms and microorganisms. Eco-farming is based on the awareness of the free interaction between soil, plants, animals, and organic residues, while humans should play the role of a helper, not a pest.
Organic Farming Basics
The principles and basics of organic farming are easy to understand and are as follows:
- The earth is a living organism, the structure of which should not be disturbed. Intensive cultivation of the topsoil, excessive digging, loosening, mineralization, and other agricultural work are very labor-intensive and lead to high material costs with low efficiency. Natural farming on a farm or garden leads to minimal costs, while allowing you to harvest good harvest.
- Mulching is the main method to improve soil quality and create favorable conditions for the natural system. Mulch is straw, sawdust, hay, fallen leaves, roots and trimmed weeds - everything that covers the beds on top protects the black soil from excessive evaporation of moisture, erosion and hypothermia.
- Reasonable feeding, which is designed not to destroy beneficial microbes and fungi that utilize organic matter, but to give them the opportunity to multiply, suppress pathogenic bacteria, fix mineral elements, and process everything that can serve as natural humus.
Agriculture according to Ovsinsky
The initiator of the breakup with in the classic way Russian scientist I.E. began digging up the garden. Ovsinsky, author of many scientific works, an agronomist by training. Farming according to Ovsinsky is an ideal way to allow the earth to recover itself without interfering with the natural course of nature. As evidence, the innovative breeder in 1899 wrote the work “A New System of Agriculture,” in which he argued for minimal plow intervention in the soil structure, which ensures an environmentally friendly environment and the production of high-quality, safe products.
Organic farming - Kizima method
Galina Kizima can be considered a modern authority on the benefits of organic farming. Having received her PhD degree, the woman seriously took up issues of increasing productivity through the correct approach to soil cultivation practices. Organic farming using the Kizima method has become widespread and is described in books and articles. The basic principle of her garden is the three “don’ts”: don’t weed, don’t dig, don’t water. The author introduced the concept of a “smart” garden bed into use, personal experience proved the effectiveness of her method.
Organic farming - beds
The agricultural technology of natural farming is designed to create conditions for plants in the beds similar to those that exist in the wild. The goals of the method: improving the quality and volume of the harvest, preserving natural fertility while saving time and effort. To bring this idea to life, the following are used:
- gentle loosening of the top 5-7 cm of soil in spring and autumn;
- the use of exclusively organic fertilizers in the garden plot, including compost, manure, humus, green manure, as well as microbiological developments;
- biological products, agricultural products that protect plants from pests and diseases.
Organic farming - where to start
The question of when and where to start organic farming is increasingly asked by rural residents and owners of garden plots. The answer is encouraging: you can transfer your homestead to a completely new system, known as “organic beds,” at any time of the year, but the autumn period is considered the most suitable. In practice, the main task of agriculture will be the rapid restoration of the top fertile layer, correct selection means of protection, maintaining the natural ecosystem, preserving it in this state through basic actions.
Natural farming in the garden plot - practice
Periodic, deep digging is not acceptable if your goal is organic farming in the country. The desire for perfect soil cultivation spoils the soil, has the opposite effect on it, making it heavy, dry, lifeless, hard as stone. As practice shows, this can be avoided using certain techniques:
- divide the area into small beds, depending on the species composition of the plants that will be planted;
- try to cover the soil with natural, organic materials, since bare land is unprotected, less infertile;
- Regularly mulch the soil to a depth of at least 10 cm, which will reduce the growth of weeds, protect plants from pests and exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and ensure long-term retention of moisture in the soil.
Today we will discuss the so-called “secrets” of natural farming, because many gardeners and gardeners have long been accustomed to growing crops on their plots with the help of shovels, hoees and all kinds of fertilizers - both natural and chemical. This method of farming has been established for quite some time and has become familiar to us. Eco-farmers have a completely different approach to gardening, so let's look at the methods of natural farming in the garden in more detail.
All the secrets of natural farming in one bottle
Usually we “help” plants go through the entire growth cycle from germination to ripening, pulling out weeds, hilling the beds and watering them with preparations advertised on TV. And few people think about the fact that natural processes themselves are ideal, and there is no need to invent anything, but only need to “strengthen” natural development in order to get a more abundant harvest, which, moreover, will also be completely environmentally safe , free of chemicals and pesticides in its fibers.
Therefore, let’s look at nature. No one helps her either by digging or watering with fertilizers. Everything goes naturally. In the fall, plants “die”, their foliage falls to the ground, where it is processed by all “earthly” microorganisms - bacteria, microbes, fungi, and after them - worms. All this results in a fertile layer of soil - vermicompost, and this happens from year to year. Everything that grows returns back to the ground. And the plants themselves decide which nutrients, obtained during natural processing, they need for full growth and development.
It is this cycle that organic matter performs that creates the fertility of the earth, and it is indestructible. All natural processes are balanced. This means that by interfering with them with our blades and preparations, we definitely lose in the quantity and quality of our harvest. Therefore, let’s listen to the natural development of plants and strengthen the natural processes occurring in nature. Using natural farming, you can not only grow an environmentally friendly and harmless product, but also increase the amount of harvest significantly! Let us consider the principles and technology of the natural farming method in order.
Beds in natural farming
Where does any vegetable garden begin? Of course, from the garden. A lovingly created, loosened and fertilized garden bed is the ideal of any gardener. But not in natural farming. In natural farming, nothing is done to the beds - they are not dug up, loosened or fertilized. These plots of land are left in their natural position, as they are! If the garden has just been purchased, or, for example, the location of the beds is not satisfactory, then the only thing they do is mark out the area (for the first time or again). Using pegs, future beds are marked, a passage is made between them using a shovel, and the soil from the passage is dumped onto the beds. After that, the bed cloth is leveled with a rake and that’s it. We will no longer need these tools - a shovel and a rake. If the beds are created, then nothing is done to them at all - they do not dig, do not loosen, do not fertilize, and never - neither in spring nor in autumn. 
The only processing point that natural farming allows is slight loosening using a flat cutter. Loosening depth – maximum 8 cm! It is carried out only when necessary.
This is one of the options for organizing stationary beds, but there are other, so to speak, “natural” methods - these are high beds, Rozum beds, trenches, etc. The main thing is that they are constantly replenished with organic matter. And in some cases, for example on peat bogs, to start fertility (at the very beginning) you cannot do without small doses of mineral fertilizers.
The role of mulch and mulching in natural farming
With the help of such a simple action as mulching the soil, we will reproduce natural processes. We will “give” to the earth as much as we want to take from it, and even more.
Fertilizing the soil with organic matter throughout the growing season is perhaps one of the main points of natural farming. After all, this is what increases the fertility of the soil and accumulates necessary nutrients in it.
So, let's look at what mulch is for plants and soil:
- Soil protection. There is no weathering, leaching, or overheating of the earth.
- Weed growth is virtually eliminated. Firstly, it creates a shadow in which they do not grow much, and secondly, the high layer of mulch (which we create) simply does not allow any weeds to sprout.
- Maintaining moisture levels. Mulch prevents the soil from drying out, which means the plants also have a supply of moisture.
- Loosens the soil. Therefore, there is no need to forcibly loosen it; in such soil, plants develop much more willingly and quickly, since the root system does not need to “break through” to find nutrients.
Fresh grass (both lawn and meadow), weeds, green manure, leaves, hay, etc. are used as mulch.
Mulching begins as soon as the seedlings are planted. The grass is laid on the beds as a sheet between the crops, in fairly large quantities. But there is one caveat - the grass can tightly touch the stems of garden plants, but you can’t put it near tree trunks - it will cause the bark to become warm.
Organic matter should be supplied to crops only from the soil, in already processed form. You need to apply mulch without sparing. Throughout the growing season, as the “mountains” of grass decrease, it will be necessary to report it - approximately once a week, but this must be determined by the rate of its decrease. At first, as soon as you start this process, it will be difficult and long for the mulch to rot and rot, and then, after some time, faster and faster.
Please note that even roses can be mulched. Who will say that this is ugly? 
If the crop was planted using seeds, then, naturally, there is no mulching at first - the seeds need to germinate. As soon as the shoots begin to appear, we immediately begin spreading mulch around.
shoots from seeds before mulching 
grown shoots with mulch
As for the condition of the grass, it is best if it is fresh and chopped - this will make it easier for microbes, fungi, worms, etc. to eat it. The ideal option is a lawn mower with a chopper. But if this is not the case, then it’s okay - any grass, of any size, is suitable as mulch - from a meadow, from a field, and even ordinary weeds that grow everywhere. But soil organisms eat dry grass quite reluctantly, so the most important rule- This is constant watering of mulch. Yes, the grass laid between the rows must be kept moist at all times. It is advisable to check this condition regularly, and if it dries out, repeat watering. It is important that the layer between the soil and the grass is always moist. Please note that in natural farming the plants themselves are not watered - neither at the roots nor on the leaves. Water exclusively the mulch that is spread around.
On average, water deeply once a week under normal weather conditions. If it rains, then we reduce the amount of watering, or stop altogether, but if it’s scorching hot, then on the contrary, we increase irrigation.
After harvesting from the “natural beds,” as mentioned above, we do nothing with them - we neither dig them up nor remove them. Lightly level it with a rake and apply a thick layer of new mulch - grass and fallen leaves. And in this state the bed overwinters. Another option for preparing a garden bed for winter is to sow green manure, so let’s move on directly to the next method of organic farming – green manure.
Green manure in natural farming
Here is another almost obligatory point in natural farming. What are green manures? These are oats, mustard, lupine, radish, sweet clover, buckwheat, peas, etc. These crops structure the soil layers very well because they have a very wide and developed root system. Using this system, they create a “breathing” layer for the soil, and it is also saturated with oxygen. Since the roots of green manure penetrate deep into the soil, they extract from there all the necessary nutrients that “cultivated” plants simply cannot reach. In addition, these crops reduce soil acidity and suppress the growth of weeds. And, perhaps most importantly, they nourish the soil with organic matter, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, which is simply necessary for our future plants. 
We recommend sowing green manure in beds in early spring - it will preparatory stage before planting the main plants. Green manure will prepare the soil for planting, and will subsequently serve as mulch. We sow them thickly, scattering them over the area, and sprinkle them with a little earthen soil or compost, otherwise the birds may eat everything. Before planting the crop in the garden bed, about 2 weeks in advance, the grown green manure is simply trimmed (not cut, not pulled out) and left in this trimmed state on the garden bed. Then seedlings or seeds are planted between them.
A very important point! We must not allow green manure plants to overgrow, that is, the moment when they begin to scatter their seeds. You need to have time to cut them off before that.
It is good to sow them before winter, as already mentioned, on already harvested beds. After the crop is harvested, instead of mulching with new grass, green manure can be sown in the beds. This is also great for overwintering an organic bed. The main thing is to never leave the ground bare in winter. Green manure crops are sown thickly before winter. Firstly, most often not all of them germinate, since, after all, it is already September, and secondly, by forming their roots, they will not allow the ground to freeze early. After the green manure “dies” it will turn into compost, again improving the structure and nutrient layer of the earth both upward and deep. Many green manures also perfectly sanitize the soil, so this is the safest method of disinfecting soil in the garden.
Perhaps, only rye should be used with caution as a green manure, although it also belongs to this group. The fact is that she completely occupies the territory and does not allow all other crops nearby to grow - she is a very allelopathic young lady. It’s good when this applies, for example, to weeds, but valuable plants can also be affected.
Fertilizers and preparations in natural agriculture
With the natural method of growing food, fertilizers are used only the same “natural” ones. No store-bought drugs, no mineral supplements, in no case. The plant must take all its nutrients from nature! Only organic matter can be used as fertilizers. And this is humus, compost and the creation of warm beds.
In natural farming, diseases and pests, as a rule, do not besiege crops much, because here everything is aimed at prevention. But if this does happen, then you can fight only with folk remedies suitable for a particular case. So look at the plant protection section at the address and choose a safe product.
The role of crop rotation in natural farming
Another point in natural farming that improves soil fertility is crop rotation.
We should not forget that plants not only consume nutrients from the soil, but also give it some organic elements. All crops have quantities and varieties consumed and released into the soil. nutrients- different, which is why there are recommendations about which crops should be planted after others. This alternation allows you to maintain soil fertility and provide adequate nutrition to plants without additional fertilizers. 
We have reviewed the main pillars of natural farming. From all this we can conclude that this method of growing food does not require a lot of time and labor; there is no need to dig, weed or loosen, either in the fall or in the spring! You just need to take care of crop rotation, mulching, sowing green manure, plant protection and watering. In fact, these are all the secrets of natural farming, and most importantly, in the end we get not only an abundant, but also an environmentally friendly harvest from our organic beds.