How to fertilize the earth in spring: organic and mineral top dressing. How to fertilize the land in autumn: advice from experienced agronomists

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Spring is the base period for all plants. Developing horticultural and horticultural crops need a complete feeding with nutrients so that in the fall they bring bountiful harvest. To achieve good results, the gardener must know which fertilizers can be applied in the spring, and which ones are better to refuse.


Spring top dressing

With the onset of warm days near the trees and perennials the growing season is coming. After winter dormancy, sap flow begins and active growth. A similar process occurs in garden crops planted with seedlings or sown with grains in the ground. Plants try to gain strength by absorbing nutrients from the earth. However, even the most fertile soil unable to provide adequate nutrition without human intervention. The way out of the situation is top dressing with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Soil enrichment cannot be done by everyone that comes to hand. Each plant, tree or shrub requires a balanced and complete feeding with those substances that are lacking in the soil. Experienced vegetable growers independently make up a combined diet of mineral and organic fertilizers based on soil analysis.

It's important to know! Fertilizer applied to the soil more than the prescribed norm will only harm the plant. oversupply nutrients will result in a poor harvest.

Terms of work

Deciding what fertilizer to apply and how much is half the battle. Need to know optimal timing carrying out work so that top dressing is beneficial. Conventionally, the time of fertilization in the spring is divided into three periods:

  1. Soil fertilization in the snow. The biggest mistake is to sprinkle mineral fertilizers in early spring over unmelted snow. Most of the nutrients will go with melt water outside the garden. Unfertilized areas will appear, as well as places with a large accumulation of minerals. The method is suitable only for large farms that have not fed the fields in the fall, and a large amount of work lies ahead in early spring. Organics in the snow, in general, cannot be scattered.
  2. Fertilizing the soil before sowing or planting seedlings. An ideal period for all cultures. The fertilizer will have time to dissolve, evenly distributed throughout the area. The root system of a young plant will immediately receive nutrients after planting. To achieve the optimal effect, the scattered fertilizer is covered with a layer of earth.
  3. Applying fertilizer to the hole during sowing or planting seedlings. An effective but dangerous method that requires great experience. The root system immediately receives a large concentrate of substances. Mistakes with the dose will destroy the plant.

A novice gardener should adhere to the second period of fertilizing the soil - before planting garden crops. This rule is also suitable for flower growers. Fruit trees can be fed even before the ground around the trunk is completely thawed.

Advice! With any feeding option, you should not immediately apply a large portion of fertilizer. It is better to divide the process into 2-3 times at short intervals.

organic fertilizers

The most popular top dressing in rural areas is organic. Fertilizer for many gardeners is free, but it works no worse than store-bought products.

Compost

Effective fertilizer consists of decomposed organic waste. The rotting process takes place in a pit or heap fenced with shields. For the preparation of compost, the tops of garden crops, weeds, sawdust, foliage from trees, and any food waste are used. Rapid decay of organic matter occurs at a temperature of +40 ° C.

Properly prepared compost can replace mineral fertilizers. To do this, organics are not just randomly thrown into a heap, but alternate wet and dry layers. Succulent vegetation is mixed with sawdust or dry foliage. Complete nutrients are obtained by adding bird droppings or fresh manure from pets. Phosphorus flour will help enrich organic matter with microelements. For 100 kg of decaying waste, 2 kg of the substance is added. Nice results gives peat, but it forms an acidic environment. Wood ash will help restore balance.

Advice! To speed up decay, each layer of organic waste is sprinkled with earth. In a hot dry summer, a bunch is watered, but the water should not stand in a puddle. Retain moisture and maintain optimum temperature film cover will help.

Manure

Organics are obtained from used pet bedding. The basis is fresh manure mixed with straw, grass or wood chips. The fertilizer is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other useful substances. To prepare manure, the dirty bedding is piled up and covered with plastic wrap on top. The rotting process lasts at least 1 year. The finished organics are scattered with pitchforks over the site and evenly distributed with a rake.

Attention! Not rotted manure can only be used for warm beds.

Humus

The composition of organic matter includes manure or compost that has rotted for two or more years. Ready humus is determined by friability and earthy smell. The resulting substance is considered a universal fertilizer, suitable for feeding, mulching, adding to the wells when planting seedlings.

bird droppings

In count useful substances organic is ahead of mullein. Pure manure is highly concentrated and is only used for composting. In a diluted form, organic matter is ideal for feeding garden crops, especially tomatoes. Sourdough is made from 1 part manure and 10 parts water. The fermented infusion is diluted with water at the rate of 1:4 and the plants are poured under the root with this solution.

Ash

The most useful ash for vegetation is obtained by burning young tree branches and straw. The substance is rich in potassium, which helps to reduce the acidity of the soil. Ash serves as a good top dressing for most garden crops, except for carrots. Tomatoes, potatoes react well to the substance, Bell pepper.

Peat

If the site is not located on peatlands, then this organic matter will have to be bought. Peat is used in the arrangement of beautiful lawns. The substance is evenly scattered over the site, crushed with earth, and after a day they begin to sow the seeds. Peat is well suited for soil mulching, especially around the trunks of three-year-old apple tree seedlings.

Bacterial fertilizers

The drug is more used in the cultivation of flowers, as well as garden crops. The composition contains living microorganisms that help plants absorb nutrients from the soil. A striking example is humus, but there are also more concentrated preparations. Bacterial fertilizers are applied in spring to warm soil during seed sowing.

Sapropel

The tablet preparation is made from organic deposits of the bottom of the reservoir. Tablets are applied during soil preparation or during crop sowing. The drug is covered with earth, otherwise it is useless.

Mineral fertilizers

Fertilizing with minerals helps to increase yields, develop plants, and normalize the acid balance of the soil. Fertilizers can neutralize acid or, conversely, oxidize alkaline soil. The composition includes inorganic substances that protect garden crops from fungal diseases. Packaged fertilizers are sold. Each package contains instructions for use. Plants are fed with minerals annually.

Nitrogen

This type of fertilizer includes: urea, saltpeter and ammonium sulfate.

Top dressing with these substances is in demand for soil where organic matter was not added. Nitrogen-containing preparations are used in early spring in initial period plant vegetation. Fertilizers do not tend to accumulate in the ground, which is why they are applied periodically in parts of 300 g / m 2. Nitrogen contributes to the growth, development and flowering of the plant, as well as the formation of the ovary.

Potash

The preparations are applied to the soil at the rate of 200 g/m 2 . Potassium develops the resistance of green spaces to cold weather and even a drop in temperature to a negative level. Fertilizer accelerates the ripening of fruits, promotes branching of the root system.

Phosphoric

In spring, phosphorus-containing substances are in demand by plants along with nitrogen. The following preparations are best known to gardeners: double superphosphate, phosphate rock and superphosphate.

Phosphorus promotes rapid growth plant stem and its further development. The drug is applied at the rate of 250 g / m 2 land plot.

Mineral fertilizers differ in composition. The simplest are single-component preparations. For spring feeding complex fertilizers are more in demand. They are composed of several minerals containing nutritional and protective components. Complex preparations increase plant immunity, which prevents the development of fungal and bacterial diseases.

Factory-made fertilizers are of general use and specially designed complexes for a particular crop, for example: "Bulba" - for potatoes, and "Kemira-Universal" - for garden trees.

Attention! When making mineral fertilizers it is important to follow the dosage indicated in the instructions. In this case, you need to know the type of soil. Well, if there is an opportunity to make an analysis of the land from the site.

Any horticultural crop ornamental plant demanding to a certain substance, whether it is a mineral or organic.

Potato

Top dressing of the culture is carried out in a continuous or hole way. In a large garden, a continuous method is acceptable. Top dressing is evenly scattered throughout the area. The composition of the mixture depends on the type of soil.

For infertile land:

  • compost or manure - 5 kg;
  • ammonium sulfate - 3 kg;
  • superphosphate - 3 kg;
  • potassium-containing drug -2.5 kg.

For nutrient soil:

  • compost or manure - 2 kg;
  • ammonium sulfate - 2 kg;
  • superphosphate - 1.5 kg;
  • potassium-containing drug - 1.5 kg.

In the hole version, fertilizer is applied to each hole during planting of tubers. The method is suitable for the owner small plot. However, it is more convenient to plant potatoes for three people: one works with a shovel, the second pours fertilizer, the third lays tubers in the holes. Potatoes are fed with a mixture of 1 liter of manure with 0.5 liters of ash. This amount is calculated per well.

tomatoes

Tomatoes love prepared soil. It is better to do this in the fall or, in extreme cases, in early spring. In the beds before planting seedlings, the earth is mixed with peat, manure and loamy soil is added. For feeding on initial stage use organic. Of the store preparations, superphosphate and complex fertilizers are best suited. Minerals are added once every 2 weeks.

cucumbers

High warm beds are prepared for culture. The filler is manure or humus, straw and earth. The bed can be made not high by immersing the filler deep into the ground. Under top layer organic matter will begin to overheat the earth, releasing heat to the roots of cucumbers.

Cabbage

The culture is demanding on nitrogen. On the 10th day after transplanting, seedlings are fertilized with urea no more than 10 g/m 2 . After 22 days, add superphosphate dissolved in water at the rate of 15 g of the substance per 10 liters of water. The proportions are calculated for white cabbage. Top dressing of other varieties is performed with similar preparations. For cauliflower, double the dose.

Strawberry

With the onset of spring, the bushes are cleared of hatched weeds and insulating shelter from foliage or sawdust. The soil is loosened, and mulched with peat on top. The first feeding is carried out with a nitrogen-containing solution. It is possible to scatter saltpeter granules under the bushes before mulching. After the appearance of the first leaves of the plantation, they are poured with mineral-organic solutions. The taste of berries is enhanced by potassium-containing preparations.

Currant

If initially the pit was well fertilized, then the first feeding of the shrub is required in the second year. Currants respond well to nitrogen-containing fertilizers and organics. An adult bush needs 15 kg of humus in the spring. If the choice fell on organic matter, then mineral nitrogen-containing substances are not added.

Raspberry

The most demanding and capricious shrub for feeding. fertilize raspberries better humus or compost. The earth is loosened for better penetration moisture and oxygen to the roots. From above, the soil is mulched with peat. Surface top dressing is carried out by spraying with solutions containing bromine with zinc.

Fruit trees

In early March, when the buds have not yet swelled on the trees, superphosphate is scattered around the trunks, mixing it with the ground. Early terms are due to the properties of phosphorus. The substance must be in the ground for a long time to become a useful fertilizer for a fruit tree. After warming up the soil, apply wood ash with humus. By the end of May, the trees are fertilized with potassium, which improves the taste of the fruit.

What not to apply in the spring

Not all fertilizers can be used in the spring on your site. First of all, it is worth abandoning fresh manure, if we are not talking about warm garden for cucumbers. Plants from such organic matter will receive a minimum of nutrients, and an overabundance will even harm them.

An additional problem will bring weed grass seeds preserved in manure. In the garden, grains will germinate quickly. Weeds will kill cultivated plants, plus they will take away nutrients from the soil.

Saltpeter may fall under the second ban. Fertilizer promotes the formation of an alkaline environment. For soil with a large amount of salt impurities, this effect is unacceptable.

The third preparation, which should be abandoned in the spring, is an expired factory-made complex fertilizer. The substance will not cause much harm. Just fertilizer will be inactive and the plant will not benefit from it.

With the acquisition of experience, gardeners independently make up a diet for their crops, and also give useful advice to novice farmers:

  • For spring top dressing, it is optimal to use complex preparations with a maximum nitrogen content. Since the granules take longer to dissolve, they are applied in mid-March. Nutrient solutions are watered at the end of April.
  • When feeding trees, fertilizer is applied with a small indent from the trunk and in a circle. So it is more likely that the substance will penetrate to the root system.
  • You can make compost and mulch the soil annually. There will be no harm from this. It is advisable to use manure to fertilize the land 1 time in 2 years. The introduced organic matter cannot be buried deeper than the bayonet of a shovel.

When choosing store fertilizers, preference is given to granular complex preparations. They dissolve in doses, which allows the plant for a long time receive nutrients.

Conclusion

Any fertilizer is good for a plant or tree if used wisely. A properly formulated nutritious diet will affect a good harvest in the fall. If you overdo it with top dressing, then thick tops with large leaves will grow instead of fruits.

Fertilizing the soil is the key to a rich harvest for many years to come. Any land is depleted over time, therefore, it requires care and care, like a living being.

Relationship between soil and fertilizers

The type of fertilizers, the time and method of their application directly depend on the type of land, the duration of its operation, as well as the crops that grew on the site a season earlier. For example, if the soil is heavy, fertilizers with nitrogen are applied to the garden in the spring, and all the rest - in the fall, during digging. So that light soils do not give up all the nutrients to the deep layers (or they are not washed out), they are fertilized in the spring. Liquid or “green” fertilizers, which summer residents often make themselves, can be applied a little with each watering, carefully bypassing the delicate green leaves of the crops. We should not forget about foliar top dressing, especially effective for bushes and garden trees. Such spraying is done in the early morning or late evening, but not in bright sun.

Fertilizing the soil with nitrogen

Fertilizers rich in nitrogen are applied under plants in the first half of summer. This allows crops to quickly grow green mass and give a more powerful harvest. But from the beginning of August it is better to stop this procedure. Otherwise, perennials will not have time to prepare for wintering, dragging out their cycle of “wakefulness” until deep cold. On the other hand, later (for example, in October), fertilizing young fruit trees with manure, droppings or mullein will stimulate the formation of a strong root system. As a result, nitrogen fertilizers can be applied 4 times a year, according to the following scheme:

  • at the beginning of planting, for a set of green mass;
  • in June, after the fall of empty ovaries;
  • in July, for laying fruit buds for next year;
  • after the leaves fall, to build roots.


Applying compost to the soil

Humus takes quite a long time to turn into a complete nutritional top dressing. Therefore, many owners prefer to bring it into the ground early. Namely, in the fall, so that the compost has time to further decompose and nourish the earth for a longer time. Ready humus is also beneficial to lay out in early spring, one and a half to two months before planting the first shoots. To prevent drying, humus is introduced to a depth of 10-15 cm, covering the top with a layer of mulch. In autumn, it is preferable to apply unripe compost to clay and sandy soils, at the rate of 5 kg. substances per square meter of garden. Ready-made fertilizer is used more carefully - about a handful per hole, depending on the type of plant.

Other types of soil fertilizers

It is simply impossible to list all types of fertilizers with their features in one article. Therefore, we will quickly touch on the most important ones:

  • peat can be applied at any time of the year, even on top of the snow, mixing it with lime;
  • water-soluble phosphorus fertilizers are placed under any crops and soils, semi-soluble - on acidic soil, sparingly soluble - on leached and degraded chernozems;
  • in autumn, phosphorus is introduced for early sowing crops;
  • effective potassium compounds should be distinguished: potassium chloride is suitable for acidic soils and areas with heavy rainfall, potassium sulfate - for greenhouses;
  • the most useful are complex fertilizers, such as potassium nitrate, ammophos, nitroammophoska, crystallin, and so on.

Pay close attention to the dosage of fertilizers, closely monitoring the condition of plants and soil. Exceeding the amount of nutrients recommended by experts will negatively affect the quantity and quality of the crop, as well as your health and plant welfare.

A good harvest can only be obtained on good land, and in order for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is the best time to fertilize- spring or autumn? Timing the application of fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure taken out in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. Fertilize the soil in spring, leaving the manure to lie for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the fertilizer efficiency will almost double. The varieties, terms of application to the soil and the effectiveness of various types of fertilizers will be discussed in this article.

All fertilizers are divided into 3 main groups: organic, mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers.

organic fertilizers

They, in turn, are also divided into 2 groups: animal origin and vegetable origin. Vegetable fertilizers include composts and peat, and animals include manure and bird droppings. When fertilizing with organic substances, the structure of the soil is significantly improved and this contributes to the reproduction of living organisms that benefit both the soil itself and plants. There are also some disadvantages - an imbalance of nutrients can occur, weed seeds can come across in such a fertilizer, and organic matter can cause plant diseases and attract toxic substances.

If you decide to use organic fertilizers, then it is better to use compost. It is prepared quite simply: on an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 10 square meters. meters, straw 15 cm thick is laid out, then a layer of manure - 20 cm, a layer of peat - 15-20 cm. Phosphorite flour and lime are poured on top, mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. For 1 sq. meter should be poured 50-60 grams of the mixture. A layer of manure 15-20 thick is again covered from above. All layers are covered thin layer soil and withstand 7-8 months.

With regard to fertilizing with manure, in our time the number of cattle has been greatly reduced, and therefore we have to look for an alternative. As plant products for fertilizer, you can use everything that grows and rots: cut grass, fallen leaves, tops and weeds, etc.

It is impossible to fertilize the land with fresh manure. Getting into warm and humid soil, such fertilizer begins to actively decompose and release heat and gases, so the crop can simply “burn out”. Fresh manure is used only for feeding mature plants, diluting it with water and watering the aisles. You can also use dried manure, pouring it in a thin layer between the rows.

It is better to use manure if it has lain for at least a year - during this time it decomposes and turns into humus. It is worth remembering that in its pure form manure and chicken manure rot worse, so it is better to dilute these animal waste products with straw, foliage, sawdust and even shredded waste paper (it is better to take paper without printing ink).
AT organic fertilizer, as is known, a smaller part of nitrogen is in a soluble form, and a large part is part of insoluble organic compounds. When compost hits the soil, myriads of soil dwellers pounce on it, eating, decomposing, and transforming it. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, insoluble nitrogen gradually turns into a soluble form, which was shown by the analyzes: immediately after the introduction of compost into the soil, the content of soluble nitrogen begins to rise steadily. And then it all depends on the growth rate of the aerial parts of plants. In potatoes, this process is so intense that it “eats away” all the nitrogen prepared for it by soil organisms, therefore, under potatoes, the content of available nitrogen in the soil remains low until early August and begins to rise only when the potato tops stop their violent growth. On carrots, where haulm growth is slow at first, the nitrogen content was quite high until mid-July, and then decreased in line with increased leaf growth.

When fertilizing in autumn plant nutrients are part of the soil organo-mineral complex, and the whole next season the plant lives due to the gradual disintegration of this complex and the release of available nutrients. The speed of this process depends on the activity of microflora, which is determined by external conditions: soil moisture, temperature, looseness, and so on.

In addition, organic fertilizer serves as a source of substances necessary for the formation of humus for soil microorganisms. When applied in autumn, organic fertilizer decomposes more slowly, and the process of its incorporation into humus proceeds more intensively and to a greater extent contributes to increasing soil fertility. If you regularly add compost or manure to the soil in the fall, you can create real black soil in your garden. When applied in spring, organic fertilizer decomposes faster and better supplies plants with soluble nutrients. This is important for plants, since spring and early summer are the period of their active growth, requiring abundant nutrition. Thus, autumn organic fertilizer contributes more to soil fertility, and spring - to plant nutrition. Both are important.

It goes without saying that this is the solution: we apply compost or manure in the fall, and in spring and summer we feed the plants with liquid fertilizers, which are easy to make: mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion or any weeds. To enrich these nitrogen-rich infusions with phosphorus and potassium, bone or phosphate rock and ash are added to them. Another option is to apply most or even half of the compost in the fall, and the rest in the spring.

You can use green top dressing. The main raw material common grass, weeds. The green mass is finely chopped, put in a large container and poured warm water(10 liters of water per 2 kilograms of grass). All this should be fermented for 2 - 3 days, after which you need to stir and strain the solution. Then they feed the plants with the calculation of 3 - 4 liters per 1 square meter. It is necessary to perform the procedure 2 - 3 times with an interval of a week. This solution is useful for vegetable and berry crops, it not only nourishes them, but also protects them from pests and diseases.

Mineral fertilizers

These chemical substances should be used carefully and strictly according to the norm. Usually gardeners and gardeners use nitrogen, potash, manganese, lime and other types of such fertilizers. The most common nitrogen fertilizers include saltpeter, urea, ammonia water and ammonia. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - the first time around mid-April, and the second time - in mid-November. The way they are applied is the same in both seasons - fertilizers are scattered by hand, and then the land is cultivated. It is better if the earth is moist at the same time.
Potash fertilizers also significantly increase yields. Usually, potassium in the soil is in a hard-to-reach form, so the need for plants in it is great. It is better to apply potash fertilizers in the autumn period along with manure before the main cultivation of the land.

Phosphate fertilizers are also important for plants. Without this element, the formation of chlorophyll in plants is impossible, therefore, the application of such fertilizers not only increases the yield, but also improves the quality of plant products. Phosphorus fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the soil, and then they dig it up to a depth of about 20 centimeters.

FROM mineral fertilizer we get the following picture. Immediately after the introduction, a sharp jump in the content of soluble nitrogen was observed: it increased by 5-6 times compared to the initial one and kept at high level until about mid-July. Analyzes showed that at some point there was three times more soluble nitrogen in the soil than was applied with mineral fertilizer. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that mineral fertilizer stimulates the decomposition of soil organic matter and accelerates the release of soluble nitrogen from it. The decay of humus under the influence of mineral fertilizers is a phenomenon that has even received a special name: the priming effect. But in the middle of summer, the peak is replaced by a sharp drop, and the content of soluble nitrogen in both cases - with organic and mineral fertilizers - becomes the same.

It is not difficult to guess what consequences this has for plants. On mineral fertilizers, they grow more intensively, develop abundant leaf mass and give a correspondingly higher yield, although this applies to different crops to a different extent: spinach and potatoes yielded significantly higher yields on mineral fertilizers than on compost, while beans and carrots turned out to be less dependent on nitrogen.

However, when studying the quality of the crop, the advantage turned out to be on the side organic fertilizer. This was manifested in a lower nitrate content, and most importantly, in a significant reduction in storage losses. Both potatoes and carrots grown on organic fertilizers were less affected by fungal diseases.

Mineral fertilizers do not increase soil fertility, but rather destroy it. They can be used for top dressing, but only in very moderate doses so as not to cause excessive growth of leaves and not disrupt the activity of soil microflora. Moreover, it is worth applying mineral fertilizers only if organic fertilizers are applied in the autumn, since soil with a high content of organic matter partially removes the negative impact of mineral fertilizers.

Organo-mineral fertilizers

They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used according to an individual scheme, but there are also general rules. For open soil, spraying is used, and for closed soil, surface irrigation, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on the leaves. For seed treatment, 300-700 ml of fertilizers are used per ton of seeds, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation - 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.

Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rape, oil radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Until recently, only lupine was used to improve the soil, which enriched the earth with nitrogenous mineral fertilizers, but in recent times other equally useful and effective plants became known.

For example, after harvesting, you can sow a plot with rape, which, before the onset of frost, will have time to sprout and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow has melted, it will begin to grow intensively and should be plowed into the soil before the beginning of May. After that, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve the structure. In addition, the rapeseed contains a large amount of phytoncides, which destroy pathogens in the soil.

If there is a possibility of non-use of the land whole year, then you can sow it with oilseed radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary norm of nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. Approximately 70 grams of radish seeds go to one hundred square meters of land. For uniform sowing, it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.

And a little more about how to properly prepare and fertilize the soil with manure.

We have already discussed in detail how to properly fertilize with chicken manure, now more about manure. Good quality manure is obtained where it is stored in stalls under livestock, trampled down daily, covered with a new layer of straw. During the daily removal of manure, it is piled up in large manure storages, where it must be transferred for better preservation with peat or earth. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add to the bedding or put in the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock about 1.5 kg of peat, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves slurry containing the main nutrients substances for plants. When manure is covered and layered with earth and peat, all nitrogen. Manure, when preserved in this way, usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60-90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7-9 cm is superimposed. The richer in humus the earth, the better. A layer of manure of 60-90 cm is again superimposed on this earth, which is again covered in the same way with earth. Manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage is usually laid out with straw, a layer of 60 cm thick. The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage itself is usually chosen at a high place so that side waters do not flow into it. The slurry water flowing out of the manure storage should be collected in special tanks, and the same slurry must be watered from above with manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure are too compacted and heated. by digging too deep into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to fertilize with manure to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied to the soil at a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access, and therefore the fertilizer cannot properly decompose and produce the proper effect on the tree. . Practice has often proved to us that a fertilizer applied too deeply, after a few years, was found in the soil in the same form as when it was applied to the soil, and, consequently, absolutely no benefit came from it.

If you fertilize with manure in the summer, then the fertilizer is always folded into small piles, broken up and plowed as soon as possible. The incorporation of manure should be the finer the heavier the soil. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after plowing, it is again plowed to the surface and well mixed with the soil. In most cases, it is also beneficial to roll the soil with a heavy roller after fertilizing with manure, since in this case the manure is pressed down to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes rapid germination. weeds that must be destroyed immediately.
When cultivating cabbage, strawberries and other plants, it is best to use humus from hotbeds or completely decomposed manure, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects easily start up. Under the cover of humus, moisture is stored in the ridges, in addition, rains and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizer and moistening of the ridges are achieved. Putting humus should be a layer of about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. Strawberries should be fertilized with manure especially carefully - so that manure does not get into the core of the bush. Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc.

When buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and, compared with humus, are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils that differ too much light color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the heating of the soil occurs more evenly. On clayey dense and light sandy soils with complete success you can use crushed peat for surface fertilizer. In autumn, peat, which has served and completely weathered, is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more coherent.

Green manure

Natural organic matter (manure, litter) is not available to everyone, and it costs a lot of money. In the fight against weeds, like a thousand years ago, you have to wave a hoe and crawl on your knees. If the summer is wet, potatoes prevail various diseases, and as a result, in the autumn and winter, there is a need for multiple sorting of the crop in order to remove diseased tubers.

Indeed, a lot of labor and money goes to the dacha (subsidiary) farming. Is it possible to alleviate the financial and physical burden that falls on the owner of a garden or a summer cottage?

Yes, you can. Let's start with the fact that in the old days they avoided using fresh manure for potatoes. It was believed that the tubers from it become tasteless and watery. From the diseases accumulated in the soil, they were released using the fruit change. Of course, having several acres of land (each with an area of ​​1.1 hectares), it was possible to organize a three- or seven-field crop rotation. Today, on six acres, this is a rather difficult task. But still, the people do not despair - one sows barley, the second winter rye, and the third dreams of growing peas together with potatoes.

CROSS-FLOWER CROPS
The best option is to sow cruciferous crops as a green manure, consisting of a mixture oilseed radish, white mustard, rapeseed. These plants have been known in world agricultural practice since time immemorial, being close relatives of cabbage plants. They came to us from the ancient farmers of East Asia and the Mediterranean. Cruciferous crops are now widely cultivated in economically developed countries (France, Germany, Holland, Sweden, etc.) as phytosanitary and as crops that increase soil fertility.

Oil radish- powerful, highly branched and sprawling plant 1.5-2.0 m high; with corollas of flowers from white to purple. It is not found in the wild flora, wild field species are found. Cold-resistant plant, growth does not stop until late autumn, grows back after mowing. In comparison with white mustard, it is more moisture-loving, shade-tolerant and productive. Seeds and pods taste like radishes. Blooms 35-45 days after sowing.

Mustard white- was one of magical plants ancient Greeks. Even today, having unique properties, it serves as a classic object of study of science. The height of her shoots is somewhat lower than that of the oilseed radish, and the flowers on the racemes are yellow. Mustard is the earliest ripening annual plant. It strongly reacts to the length of the day and the photo period, so the highest yields are obtained during the summer sowing dates - after June 22. Convenient for its precocity and undemanding to the type of soil.

Rape- about 1.2-1.5 m high, light yellow flowers. It is somewhat more demanding on heat than oilseed radish and white mustard. There are spring and winter forms that can turn into each other. The pods of spring rapeseed can open after seed maturation, then the sowing itself takes place, and after overwintering in the spring, part of the young plants grows in the form of a winter form. Sometimes another type is practiced - colza. This is a more "wild" form, inferior to rapeseed in terms of yield, bitter in taste and worse eaten by animals, but better adapted to different types soils. There are hybrid forms of rapeseed with fodder cabbage, turnip (for example, typhon), which are relatively more productive and stable in various climatic conditions.

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GREEN FERTILIZER
What are the benefits of cruciferous crops?

Here are 7 of their most distinctive properties:
1. For sowing one hundred square meters of land, only 180-220 g of seeds are required. A denser sowing is used if the biomass is additionally alienated for animal feed. Cultures have a very high rate of development, so you can sow at a variety of times, from May to September. best timing for a high harvest are June-July. In practice, it is sown repeatedly in 2-3 terms per season. Flowering occurs 30-40 days after germination and lasts until the end of autumn. Flowering plants withstand frosts down to - 6 ... 8 ° and even - 12 ° C.

2. The green mass of plants contains as many nutrients as cow dung: nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.25%; potassium - 0.6%. The mass of plant residues grown on an area of ​​100 m2 contains the following amount of mineral fertilizers (in conventional terms for chemical composition): 3-5 kg ​​of ammonium nitrate; 2.5-3.5 kg of superphosphate; 3.5-5.0 kg of potassium salt. In addition, the green mass, when incorporated into the soil, deoxidizes it, acting like the application of lime, since it has an alkaline content of cell sap.

3. underground part plants have the ability to absorb nitrogen from the air, like clover and lupine. Root secretions dissolve mineral inclusions in the soil and convert microelements, phosphorus and potassium into a form accessible to subsequent crops.

4. Decaying cruciferous biomass releases substances into the soil that inhibit and suppress the growth and development of weeds. On a substrate rich in organic matter, saprophytic microflora rapidly develops, which displaces pathogens of agricultural crops from the soil.

5. After harvesting the green mass, along with rotted residues, plant growth and development stimulants from the class of brassinosteroids remain in the soil, increasing the yield and improving the quality of the commercial products of subsequent crops.

6. Green mass is an excellent food for all kinds of animals and birds, contains up to 30-35% of crude protein in terms of dry matter. This is 2 times more than in clover and 3 times more than in barley grain. It is rich in vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids and various nutrients. Regular feeding, even in the form of a small top dressing, strengthens the immune system of young animals, makes it resistant to viral and bacterial aggression. Young, not hardened shoots, having a sweet-burning taste of radish, are a delicacy for children. Radish pods are canned like vegetables. Mustard powder and medicinal ointment are prepared from the ripened mustard seeds, which are used for various diseases and ailments.

7. Honey-bearing qualities of cruciferous crops are also generally recognized. Their main advantage is in the release of nectar on days even with cold nights. The nectar contains an average of 120-180 kg/ha of sugars. Cruciferous crops provide honey collection in early spring (winter species) and in the second half of summer (spring species), when other honey plants have already faded. Honey crystallizes, so it is removed from the hives for the winter.

AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY

You can sow cruciferous crops for green manure at any time - from early spring to late autumn. For sowing, a small (required) amount of seeds is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:50, scattered over the site and harrowed. The optimal seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Cruciferous plants are not demanding on the type of soil, but are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers (if the soil is poor).

To some extent, seedlings of early sowing periods can be damaged by pests, the probability of such a fact is small in June and July crops. With sparse seedlings, you should not particularly worry, since the yield value is capable of auto compensation, i.e. it depends little on the density (density) of plants per unit area.

When used as a green manure, plant biomass during the flowering phase is mowed, crushed and incorporated into the soil. This is the cheapest type of fertilizer, with which it cannot be compared in terms of precocity and economic efficiency none of the other species. In the northern regions, twice a season, it is possible to "fertilize" the soil in this way. In the middle lane, this can be done three times.

If the plot is half a hectare or more, part of the area can be taken out of circulation for 3-4 years by sowing with pink clover (on waterlogged and swampy soils), pink clover and lupine (on heavy clay soils), blue alfalfa and eastern goat's rue ( on medium and light loams), horned loam and yellow alfalfa (on light and sandy loamy soils).

One of the basic rules of organic farming is to never leave the soil without vegetation cover. Green manures that grow before, after, or in between major crops create dense leaf cover. It protects the soil from weathering and mineralization of organic matter, reduces the leaching of nutrients into the deep layers and keeps them in the upper fertile horizon. Such a leaf cover acts as a living leaf mulch, which is especially important for light sandy soils, especially horizon. Therefore, it is recommended, whenever possible, to sow green manure on light soils in the fall and leave it for the winter, and in the spring to embed living or dead plants in the soil.

Green manure also plays an important health role. Firstly, it suppresses the growth of weeds, and in order for it not to become a weed itself, it is necessary to mow or close it before the formation of seeds. This applies to rapidly growing and abundantly seeded rapeseed or mustard plants. Second, some types green manure contribute to the cleansing of the soil from pests and diseases. For example, dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the amount of wireworm.
Green manure produces a green mass that can be used as mulch or as composting material.

Take care of the land on time and correctly and you will always have a rich harvest!

The problem of the need for seasonal fertilization in the spring is well known to every gardener or florist. At this time, plants are especially in need of nutrients and elements, because the growing season begins. The question arises: how to properly fertilize and how to fertilize the land if there is no manure.

When is the best time to fertilize the soil in spring?

That spring is considered best time for the application of fertilizers of various types, is a fact proven both by science and practice. It is in spring that the active growth of plants begins. The rate of green mass recruitment, the formation of buds and, ultimately, the quantitative and qualitative characteristics of the future crop depend on whether the plantings receive the necessary substances.

One way to apply fertilizer to the soil is at the time of soil preparation. . For example, manure or compost. If, in terms of its structure, the soil in a country house or a personal plot is light, then it is recommended to add mineral complexes to it. They are indicated for early application and in areas flooded with melt water. If you apply mineral fertilizer in the autumn months, then most of the micro and macro elements will be washed out by the flood. The advantage of this method is the distribution of useful substances over the entire depth of digging or plowing.


Another way to apply any fertilizer in the spring is shortly before or just before planting. For this, the funds are placed in dug holes or spilled with a solution of the beds after planting the seeds.

Some gardeners do not wait for the snow to melt and the soil to thaw, spreading fertilizer directly onto the snow cover over the surface. But at the same time there is a risk that substances will be carried away by melt water. The exception is fruit trees in the garden, with extensive root system. Even if fertilizers are transferred a couple of meters, most likely, some of them will "get to their intended purpose." For this, fertilizers are distributed over the snow cover around the tree trunk.

In order not to get confused when and how much fertilizer was applied, you can make a plan on paper, marking each top dressing. So each culture will receive the required amount of both mineral and organic substances.

How to fertilize the soil with ash (video)

How to properly fertilize the land with manure

But when used incorrectly, it does more harm than good. It is dangerous to introduce fresh manure, especially mixed with straw. It may contain weed seeds and even pathogens in plants. If you feed vegetables - tomatoes or cucumbers - with fresh manure, then for about a month they will experience a nitrogen deficiency, which will adversely affect the growth rate and yield. Therefore, the fertilizer must be rotted.

Most often, fertilization is carried out at the stage of preparing the soil for planting. In this case, the soil is dug up and at the same time fertilizers are applied (for example, manure or compost). He will highlight needed by plants items for several years. But the value of the fertilizer is reduced if it is left on the surface of the earth, because most of the substances from the composition will evaporate into the air.


When the manure is spread over the surface of the soil with a pitchfork, the fertilizer should be planted into the ground as soon as possible. But the depth should not be too great to make it easier for plants to get food. Optimal distance embedding - the height of the shovel blade. That's why ordinary digging will be enough. Moreover, if you re-dig up the earth after 7-10 days, then the rate of decomposition of manure will increase, and it will release more useful substances in the coming season.

Another method of using manure is in the form of slurry. She is watering the plantings. For proper preparation, it is necessary for the slurry to ferment for at least 2 weeks. After that, it is diluted by half with water. To enhance the effect, you can add superphosphate fertilizer.


What fertilizers do houseplants need in spring

Most indoor plants, as with garden or garden crops, vegetation begins, that is, active growth. The exception is some species that prefer to develop and bloom in winter: for example, Decembrists and cyclamens. Their feeding, on the contrary, must be reduced.

Both organic and mineral substances are useful for the inhabitants of the window sill. Therefore, it is possible to alternate the application different types fertilizer, based on the needs of certain species.

So, decorative leafy plants need a lot of nitrogen, and flowering plants need phosphorus. But, for example, hibiscus does not tolerate phosphorus, because in its homeland this substance is contained in the soil in a minimal amount. Orchids and their closest relatives love minerals diluted in high concentrations. Therefore, before you start feeding, you need to read about the features of the species.


The easiest option is to buy ready-made fertilizer in the store. The assortment allows you to choose a remedy for each flower.

Many indoor plant lovers enjoy " folk remedies", and their experience shows that the result of such dressings is no worse than from purchased ones. chemicals. The use of ground banana peel has become popular. It will be useful to use granulated sugar rich in glucose, or crushed eggshells.. Can be bought at a pharmacy succinic acid, which increases the resistance of plants to diseases and stimulates growth.

Soil fertilizer varieties (video)

How can you fertilize the land if there is no manure

It is not always possible to use manure for fertilizer. How do plants get the necessary substances? There are other means that can give planting the right nutrition.

Alternative types of organic fertilizers

Although manure is the most popular organic animal fertilizer, several other products are of equal value and can be used in growing plants. For example, this is:

  1. Compost, which is rotted plant or animal (chicken manure) remains. In practice, it is most often made from weeds, household waste such as potato peelings, hay, old fruits, etc. The compost is aged for at least 3 months. This time is necessary for microorganisms to process raw materials into nutritious humus. The introduction of such a fertilizer significantly increases the fertility of the soil and improves its structure.
  2. siderates- green manure. These are plants that are sown for the purpose of subsequent incorporation into the soil. Rotting in the soil, they release substances and elements for further nutrition of plantings. Siderates include leguminous plants, cereals and cruciferous. The use of mustard is popular.
  3. Adding to the soil peat, ash, sawdust, silt also improves soil fertility.

The basic principle of all these universal species organic fertilizers - decomposition in the soil into substances suitable for easy assimilation by plants. Their undoubted advantage is the absence of chemicals.


What mineral fertilizers to apply to the soil in spring

All mineral fertilizers can be divided into simple, which include one main element, and complex. It is necessary to choose a product for spring use depending on the crop for which it is used. will be used:

  1. nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the set of green mass. They are useful for greens, cabbage, etc. These are urea, ammonium nitrate.
  2. potash fertilizers stimulate the growth of the root system, so they need to fertilize the soil intended for growing root crops. The most effective is potassium chloride (contains 60% of this element).
  3. Phosphorus affects the taste, weight, size and number of fruits. They need to fertilize berry crops, tomatoes, legumes, etc. For example, superphosphate is such a fertilizer.

It is important to remember that an excess of elements is also harmful to plants. Therefore, you need to follow the dosages indicated on the fertilizer packaging.


Complex fertilizers for spring feeding of horticultural and horticultural crops

Complex fertilizers include nitroammophoska, diammophos, potassium nitrate and others. They contain several elements at once in different percentages in the composition. They must be selected individually. So, potassium nitrate is dominated by potassium - 46%, and nitrogen - only 13%. This fertilizer is ideal for potatoes or root crops.

The use of complex mineral fertilizers has important advantages. First, there is no need to independently calculate the number of percent individual elements for feeding. Secondly, their use in practice is not difficult. Yes, and the yield is significantly increased. But when working with mineral fertilizers, safety measures must be observed: many of them are toxic and even explosive.

In the spring, along with the awakening of nature, summer residents also become more active, because the hot season is coming. To obtain good harvest in the fall, it is necessary in early spring to prepare the soil for future beds, picking up necessary fertilizers in required quantities. At the same time, the needs of the crops with which they plan to plant the beds are taken into account. Experienced gardeners know how to fertilize the garden in the spring and how to do it right. A similar question arises, as a rule, for beginners who decide to master the science of growing vegetables and flowers on their site. The need to fertilize the land is dictated by the annual depletion of resources. If you do not enrich the soil with useful nutrients, then the yield will decrease every year.

Timing of fertilization in the spring

Experts consider the spring season the most favorable time for applying all types of fertilizers to the soil: organic, necessarily pre-prepared, mineral, taken in strictly defined doses, as well as their mixtures. They begin the procedure for fertilizing garden soil after the completion of the melting of the snow cover. Some amateur gardeners practice spreading fertilizer over the snow, but with this method, the applied substances can “float away” from the site along with melt water.

Fruit trees can be fertilized without waiting for the near-stem soil to completely thaw. Vegetable and flower crops It is recommended to feed immediately before planting. In order not to forget what fertilizers, where and when to apply, you need to make a plan in advance. In this case, all plants are guaranteed to receive the necessary trace elements in the optimal amount for their development. When fertilizing, you can not act on the principle: the more the better. Because organic and mineral substances introduced in excess can adversely affect the condition of the crops grown. Mineral fertilizers and mixed top dressings require special care. When working with these types of fertilizers, you must follow the doses indicated on the label.

What are fertilizers

Fertilizers are organic, mineral and organomineral.

  • organic

Organic fertilizers are divided into two groups: plant residues and fertilizers of animal origin. Vegetables include: peat, composts. For animals: manure and droppings. When organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, its structure improves significantly. This contributes to the reproduction of living organisms, which are of great benefit, both for the soil itself and for plants. To date, it is recommended to make organic fertilizers using compost. It is very easy to prepare. Spread straw 15 centimeters thick over an area of ​​10 square meters. Then a layer of manure 20 centimeters. Then a layer of peat is also 15-20 centimeters. On top of this, sprinkle lime and phosphate rock, mixing them one by one. Sprinkle 50-60 grams per square meter. From above, add another layer of manure 15-20 centimeters. Cover all this with a thin layer of earth. This compost must be aged for 7-8 months and only then it can be used. The advantages of organic fertilizer: the first - it increases the fertility of the soil, the second - improves its structure, the third - ensures the presence of living microorganisms. But there are also disadvantages. The first one is nutritional imbalance. The second - its concentration is still unknown. Third - content a large number weed seeds. Fourth, there is a great danger of contracting diseases. Fifth, organic matter inherently absorbs and attracts toxic substances. And the sixth is the most dangerous, these fertilizers absorb radionuclides.

  • mineral

Mineral fertilizers, compared to organic fertilizers, contain a higher concentration of nutrients, but are simpler in chemical composition. The formulas of mineral fertilizers do not always accurately reflect the true composition, in addition to the active substance, there are always minor impurities and additives.

Mineral fertilizers are of two types:

  • Simple
  • Complex

The concept of simple fertilizer is conditional, as a rule, chemical formula such a fertilizer suggests the presence in it of additional chemical elements, which are in very small quantities compared to the main one.

As part of complex fertilizers, not one, but two or three main chemical elements in high concentrations, as well as a lot of additional ones in small quantities.

Industrial mineral fertilizers are produced in special packaging, which indicates the name, chemical formula and nutrient content in it. As a rule, instructions for use for various crops are printed directly on the package.

Mineral fertilizers differ not only in composition, but also in other characteristics: solubility in water, hygroscopicity. If fertilizers absorb moisture from the air too quickly, soon the powder or granules will cake, stick together into a lump. To prevent this from happening, you need to store mineral fertilizers in a closed container. Ideal for fertilizer storage plastic bottles. Be sure to stick the name of the fertilizer and the label on the bottle (you can put it in a file and stick it with tape).

By composition, mineral fertilizers can be classified as follows:

  • nitrogen fertilizers
  • Phosphate fertilizers
  • potash fertilizers
  • Complex fertilizers
  • Microfertilizers

  • Organo-mineral

Such dressings, as the name already suggests, are a complex mixture consisting of two types of components. Humus or manure (chicken, horse, cow) is usually used as their organic component. All these elements are able not only to fill the deficiency of nutrients in the soil, but also to improve its structure. However, unfortunately, such dressings contain far from the entire complex of macro- and microelements. Therefore, they are supplemented with various mineral components. These can be potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium, etc. All these substances are absorbed by plants very well and in a short time, and therefore, they have a quick effect in terms of gaining green mass by crops, development of ovaries and fruits. View needed by plants macro-, microelements depends on their age, type of soil on the site, etc. Thus, organo-mineral fertilizers simultaneously improve the structure of the soil and saturate it with all the necessary crops, moreover, with quickly digestible nutrients.

Varieties of organomineral compositions There are several types of such fertilizers: granular; liquid; complex mixtures; humic mixtures. Liquid organomineral fertilizers are used for top dressing cultivated plants foliar method, that is, abundantly sprayed green mass. This method allows you to get an almost instant effect. All other varieties of organomineral dressings are mostly embedded in the soil. If you plan to combine organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers, then the proportion of the latter should be reduced.

In the absence of organic fertilizers, use mineral fertilizers. Don't be afraid that your vegetables will have elevated levels of nitrates. If you do not abuse, but use the recommendations printed on the package, then nothing terrible will happen. An increase in nitrates can also be obtained by using organic matter too diligently. If you are an ardent opponent of mineral fertilizers, then you can use sod land during planting.

Only this work is very laborious. The essence of this method lies in the fact that it is necessary to dig a layer of turf to a depth of a shovel bayonet and beat the ground on the shovel handle directly onto the garden bed (or into a prepared container), and then dig shallowly. Of course, you can’t plant a large area in this way, but it’s quite possible to prepare a couple of beds. In the spring, you can bury last year's grass and leaves right into the garden (but not from city streets) - gradually rotting in the ground, they will provide the plants, albeit incomplete, but with some kind of nutrition. Ash should also be added there. Compost will be the best substitute for manure, but the process of preparing a full-fledged compost is very long - two or three seasons, and therefore, if you have trouble with manure in the future, take care of its preparation now.

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