Wooden floor pie: classification. Ceiling for the ground floor floor and interfloor structures

If you have decided to build a frame country house, then you should pay attention to the design of all elements of the building. The roof, walls (outdoor, indoor), ceilings and floor are made in the form of a “pie”, a multi-layer structure. If all the technology is followed, then we actually get a thermos.

The technological process of arranging each element of the building offers a different sequence and combination of components of a multilayer structure.

So the roof has its own set of layers, and the floor has its own. In this article we will look at the features of the “pie” of the floor of a frame house and installation methods.

Before choosing a floor material, you should decide on the type of foundation.

In most cases frame houses erected on or on a type foundation. This is primarily due to the fact that the house is not heavy, up to 16 tons. And the pile foundation is the cheapest, since it does not require the use of special construction equipment. Therefore, we will accept that the foundation of our house has a pile appearance.

To ensure reliable insulation, a double layer is laid. Also, instead of timber, you can use boards with a width of 15-25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 cm. The laying technology is the same on the edge.

For attic spaces the subfloor must be strong to withstand the weight of the insulation and an adult. Usually in the attic glass wool (insulation) is left in open form, so the entire load falls on the subfloor of the attic.

To protect everyone wooden structures use processing by special means antiseptics and penetrating compounds. But there are small nuances; it is better to process everything before installation, each element separately.

If the height allows, then the subfloor is filled from below immediately load-bearing beams. As was said above, everything must be treated with protective agents.

The second method is to make secondary guides on top of the log, but this method is not widespread, as it will require additional costs.

In most cases, the foundation is low and cranial bars are used, which are made of timber measuring 5 x 5 cm. They are attached to the bottom of the logs or beams using self-tapping screws or nails.

Around this place, it is better to use basalt glass wool, and treat the boards well with a penetrating compound.

And the surface of the finished floor is covered metal sheet or a sheet of asbestos.

Base pile foundation

Since we are using a foundation, there is space between the subfloor and the ground. Many people make the mistake of completely sewing up this space.

Thinking they are reducing heat losses, but in fact, moisture accumulates in this space and has nowhere to go, which leads to an acceleration of the process of wood rotting.

To prevent this from happening, ventilation holes are left on opposite sides, which are decorated with grilles. You should also not close the vents for the winter.

Installation of heated floors in a frame house

Both water heating and electric heating are used.

Let's start with the electrical method, since it is often used in the installation of heated floors. Cable floors, infrared and heating mats are used. It is best to trust the specialists.

IN Lately more and more popular water heating wooden floor, since it is much cheaper than electric.

Water heating can be arranged in three ways:

Swedish stove.
Use of heat-reflecting plates.
Usage concrete screed.

Swedish stove - Quite an expensive method of installing heated floors.

It is as follows:

You should wait until the concrete has completely set. We get that the Swedish stove is a full-fledged one. Subsequently, we build a frame house on this slab.

Use of heat-reflecting plates.

The foundation has been poured, the walls have been raised, the roof has been installed and windows and doors have been installed. You can start laying floors in wooden house with your own hands. This stage of work is not difficult, but requires careful attention to detail.

Proper installation of the floor pie is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-cover the entire coating in a few years. Lack of underground ventilation will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Subfloor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes the elements of the building unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not embed logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed someday. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation underground, organizing sufficiently sized vents in the base or foundation. According to the standards, in the underground without forced ventilation The area of the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the area of the subfloor. Otherwise, regardless of waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unflattering.

When the flooring is ready, you can begin insulation. But before laying the insulation, it is necessary to resolve the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on the adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what is the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barrier films on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-proof films, you can even use simple polyethylene films. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from the wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture outside are not useful here - all the evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation it is necessary to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (minimum 5 cm). If the joist boards are not high enough, a counter batten is nailed along them, on top of the membrane, on which the finished floor is laid.

Floor insulation - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises up. By this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All due to the same convection - air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and energy resources are also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;

polystyrene foam and its derivatives are not susceptible to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, they are lightweight and inexpensive, but they create a “greenhouse effect” in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk insulation is laid on a continuous flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, you just need to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finish floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, you can lay almost any floor in a wooden house:

Wood floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and bathroom – places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the device of warm wooden floors and even concrete screed on the joists. So the choice depends only on construction skills and design preferences.

DIY technology for laying floors in a wooden house

Warm floors are comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry the winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it would be a shame not to use it!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, it is difficult to make a warm floor in a concrete screed, but it is quite possible:

The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the joists in advance. After all, the weight finished slab taking into account the finished floor it will be about 150 kg/sq.m and this does not take into account furniture and residents. When pouring concrete, the pitch of the beams is halved, and the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).

A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is to not install a subfloor. Enough to secure at the bottom vapor barrier film slats so that the insulation boards do not sag.

Dense waterproofing is laid on top of the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all places where it is attached to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.

Slate or cement bonded particle board– they have the best adhesion to concrete. Formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. It is laid on substrates made of the same slate reinforcement mesh. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
A “snail” of heated floor pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the mesh with ordinary cable clamps. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and the reinforcement to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.

To protect yourself, carry out a test run of underfloor heating systems with high blood pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start filling.

After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it using a long rule. Concrete needs to be watered for 1-2 weeks to gain strength. After a month you can start styling any flooring.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists are not strong enough to support the weight concrete slab, no need to be upset! After all, you can make a dry heated floor with water heating. To do this, you will need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. Laminate is laid on top. The entire process is presented in detail in the video:

No one disputes the triumphant return of wood flooring; their environmental friendliness and durability have been proven over decades of use. It will not be a secret that such “revolutionary materials” as carpet and laminate are made on the basis of polymers and contain substances harmful to others. Whether it's a classic - warmth and cozy color natural wood will make the interior of any home comfortable to live in.

General requirements

Any object made of wood implies, first of all, installation of floors in a log house from similar material. This solution will create harmony between the walls and flooring. The technology for laying wooden flooring has been known for a long time, but the improvement of technological procedures continues to this day. Structural diagram arranging a wooden covering consists of:

preparatory (rough) layer;
finishing flooring.

Regardless of execution the flooring must meet these requirements, How:

water resistance;
aesthetics;
abrasion resistance;
hygiene;
durability;
installation manufacturability.

In addition, the coating must be warm, easy to clean, have high soundproofing properties and match the interior of the building.

Options for installing floors in a wooden log house and the main structural elements

Experts advise using two most common methods arrangement of plank flooring in a private house:

on the ground using logs;
along the floor beams.

The choice of option depends on the design of the object and should be carried out on initial stages design construction. In buildings with two levels and rooms with a basement The second method is almost always used - along floor beams. His advantage is complete isolation from the ground Moreover, such a structure increases the rigidity of the entire structure. Flaw such installation of floors along logs in wooden log house consists of increased noise, but the use of special noise-absorbing pads will reduce the noise level.

Option with flooring on the ground provides for the installation of supports on which logs are subsequently placed. Thus, connection with walls is excluded and, accordingly, sound and vibration vibrations are minimal. The base for the supports can be masonry made of red brick or concrete. Important! The supports are formed in rows with spans equal to the distance between the logs, usually 0.5-1 meter. A layer of roofing material must be laid under the base of the logs. During work, regularly check the horizontal lag level; their joints should only be on the support columns.

It would be useful to remove a layer of soil to a depth of about 40-50 cm and then fill the underground space with gravel, crushed stone or river sand.

Depending on the operating conditions of the living space plank flooring is divided into two types:

single– for properties intended for seasonal residence;
double– for premises with permanent residence.

First option installation of floors in wooden log houses most often used V country houses where people spend summer season. Double design is being formed in permanent buildings and implies the use insulation, as well as layers of vapor and sound insulation.

Technology for laying single wood flooring

In rooms with small area the beams are mounted and attached directly to the wall. If laying logs on support posts is considered, then it is necessary to take into account the requirements that will ensure the reliability of the overall structure. Let's say the gap between the pillars is 0.8 m - the load-bearing beams must have a cross-section of at least 100X100 mm. If the parameters between the supports are increased to 1 meter, beams of 120X120 mm will be required. The logs are mounted across the room at intervals corresponding to the thickness of the boards. For example, a distance of 0.5 m will be enough to install a 28 mm coating. For quality installation of floors in a wooden log house tongue and groove lumber is used from coniferous or hardwood thickness 28-40 mm. Traditional location – perpendicular to the wall with windows. The material is fixed with nails; their length is taken from 2.5 times the thickness of the lumber. Possible two fastening methods:

ordinary;
parquet.

The essence of the conventional method is that the nail is driven into front part boards. Second option- This driving a nail at a 45° angle into the corner of the ridge.

Important! The very first plank is laid at a distance of 10-15 mm from the wall. It is recommended to carry out the laying first parquet method, i.e. Only every sixth board is fixed. As the material dries, the floor can be re-laid with less labor. Wedges are used to compact the rows; the gap should not exceed 1 mm.

In order to ventilate the underground space, it is necessary to arrange openings in the corners of the floor that close decorative grilles. Its design should prevent the entry of foreign objects and water during cleaning. It should be remembered that there are not enough vents in the flooring, and provide windows for ventilation in the basement of the building in advance.

Today we will look at one of the most popular schemes for installing an insulated floor in a wooden house. The review will raise key questions about the preparation and construction of the floor substructure, the insulation layer and its protection, as well as the correct installation of natural plank flooring.

Requirements for the load-bearing floor system

High-quality insulation of a wooden floor requires that the configuration of its subsystem (joists, supports, lintels) correspond to the existing dimensions and form factor of the insulation. Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool are considered the most suitable for insulating wooden floors; bulk granular fillers such as ecowool or perlite chips are less commonly used. The design of the load-bearing floor system must allow the insulation to be securely fixed, ensure its immobility and at the same time maintain its strength and functionality.

The key to installing a reliable and durable insulated floor is to secure the joists well and provide strong support for them. If the floor is laid on the ground, it is necessary to place a number of supporting pedestals made of brick or cast reinforced concrete. To simplify installation, the edges of the joists rest on the protrusions in the strip foundation. They can be made with a hammer drill and an angle grinder, and then sealed cement mortar, or provide for it at the stage of formwork assembly. Between the end of the beam and the entire foundation there should be a compensation gap of about 1/4% of the length of the log.

1 — strip foundation; 2 — support pillars; 3 - waterproofing; 4 - floor joists; 5 - waterproofing lag

It is also necessary to ensure that the moisture contained in stone elements structure - the foundation and support pedestals - will not migrate into the wood. To do this, use linings of 2-3 layers roll waterproofing. You should pay attention to wood processing before starting installation work. All lumber must be thoroughly soaked in antiseptics and, if necessary, fire retardants, and then dried in a stack.

Joists and counter-lattice

When installing logs, they are placed in increments corresponding to the format of the insulation used. To avoid frequent installation support pillars, you can use a cross-lagged system. In this case, the lower beams have a cross-section with equal sides and perform the main load-bearing function. The top row has a frame structure: boards placed on edge form longitudinal cells, convenient for laying insulation of a certain width and fastening flooring boards.

If the house is located on slab foundation, then the supporting floor system has a simple structure. The logs are formed by one frame row, which is secured with anchors to concrete base. The plane of the monolithic base forms the bottom for the cells under the insulation, ensuring its reliable fixation.

When constructing a floor on the ground, there is no such support plane. One of the options for arranging it is to fill it with light porous material, such as expanded perlite or expanded clay, to the lower level of the joists.

Otherwise, the logs that form the cells for the insulation are equipped with longitudinal stops. A block of approximately 25x25 mm is screwed with self-tapping screws at the bottom of each joist, forming parallel ledges. A mesh of shingles or thin is laid on them edged board, due to which the insulation is supported.

1 - cranial block; 2 - floor joists; 3 - mesh; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - floor board

It is important to know that since the stuffed bars “eat up” the space of the floor cells a little, the remaining height may not be enough to accommodate insulation of the thickness that is provided thermotechnical calculation. In this case, bars of the same size are stuffed over the ribs of the frame system. They can be located parallel to or across the top row of joists; in the latter case, additional clearance is provided for ventilation of the insulation.

Laying insulation

Width of cells for laying mats mineral wool should be 1-2% smaller sizes insulation. Due to the tight fit, excess ventilation of the floor is eliminated and possible shrinkage of the wool is compensated over time. When laying mats, they must be carefully and evenly compressed across the plane, placed into the cavity and then straightened inside. It is desirable that after installation the wool forms a small hump protruding upward, which will be pressed against the boards. If foil wool is used, it is positioned with the reflective surface facing up.

In the case of expanded polystyrene, which is practically incompressible, minor gaps may form. They are eliminated by blowing out summer polyurethane foam upon completion of filling all cells. In order to reduce foam consumption, gaps that are too thick can be eliminated with thin cut inserts made of PPS.

To fill the insulation into the space between the joists, it is necessary to localize the cells by lining the bottom with a vapor-permeable membrane with a fold over wooden beams. In the very simple version You can use geotextiles or a vapor barrier to protect roofs. To prevent the membrane from shifting when filling insulation, it is recommended to shoot it with staples wooden elements floor systems.

How is thermal insulation protected?

Various insulation and ventilation schemes may require limited air circulation in the space under the floor. This is especially true for houses on a pile-grillage foundation, where the insulation is in contact with street air and must be protected from getting wet.

To prevent mineral wool from losing its heat-saving properties when saturated with moisture, it is covered with a vapor barrier on top. The protective membrane is spread over the joists and insulation, then fixed to the wooden blocks with small nails or staples. The joints must be carefully glued on both sides; it is better if they are located exactly on the edges of the supporting floor system.

In those rare cases when the dew point may move above the insulation with the formation of condensation on the vapor barrier, it is necessary to provide ventilation under the board flooring. Needs to be stuffed on top frame joists, covered with a vapor barrier, a counter-lattice made of boards of the same width as the logs themselves. The thickness of the vent usually does not exceed 20-25 mm, and the counter-latt itself does not in any way affect the quality of fastening of the board flooring.

Laying a tongue and groove board

The insulated frame floor system has solid wood elements that serve as excellent cold bridges. To prevent heat loss, you can cover frame system floor with heat-insulating and moisture-resistant material, such as GVLV or MGL, and then lay the boards, having previously marked the position of the lag.

For an insulated floor, it is recommended to use a tongue-and-groove board with compensation grooves on the reverse side. Such flooring will not creak when walking, it is less susceptible to uneven shrinkage and warping. Thanks to the tight joining of the boards, any kind of blowing between them is eliminated. If limited air circulation is planned under the floor, then the openings for air flow will be 10-15 mm distance gaps near the walls, which also serve to compensate for the linear expansion of the wood.

When laying, the ridge is cut off from the end of the first board, and the groove is oriented towards itself. Fastening is carried out in each joist at one or two points. The boards are fixed with rough nails, which are driven obliquely into the groove and finished off by inserting a steel bar. To ensure high-quality joining of the boards, a beam is temporarily attached to the joists 20-30 cm in front of them and the loose floorboards are pressed away from it with a lever or a car jack.

The last board from the set is cut according to the size of the remaining gap, taking into account the curvature of the walls. It is pressed from the wall using a mounting tool through a lining made of wooden block, and then attached to the joists right through the surface. The marks from fastening with nails are subsequently covered with plinth.

From the author: We are glad to welcome novice builders who have decided to insulate the floors in their homes with their own hands. This is undoubtedly correct solution, because how well your house retains heat directly determines the utility costs for its maintenance during the cold season. The money you overpay for heating is enough for a natural mink fur coat, two sets winter tires or at least a few trips to the restaurant. It's a shame, isn't it? Here's your incentive to read the article to the end.

Surely many of you have heard of the term “floor pie on the ground.” What kind of dish is this? Builders call it “pie” multilayer construction, used to create a warm, reliable and functional floor covering. The layers and technology for laying floor layers with insulation will differ depending on whether the work is carried out in an apartment or a private house, what finishing coat will be used in this case, what is the situation with humidity and temperature conditions indoors, etc.

Installing floors in private homes is a complex process that requires certain knowledge. Now we will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to properly make a base for insulating floors in wooden frame house, we’ll share some special tricks regarding installation technology. Read, understand, take notes. We are sure that, following our advice, you can easily do this yourself.

Source: http://papamaster.su

Why is layer-by-layer installation of flooring necessary?

The visible part of the floor on which we walk is only the “tip of the iceberg”, below which there are several tens of centimeters of layers of other materials. All this is done in order to properly make the foundation in a wooden house and provide your home with a comfortable microclimate. Important parameters for any gender are:

evenness - if the base of the floor is uneven, the floor covering will wear unevenly in different areas;
high sound insulation - the room is more comfortable the less extraneous sounds are heard in it;
wear resistance, which affects the service life of the coating;
ability to retain heat.

Technology of laying layers of flooring

To carry out work on wooden floors, we will need the following materials:

screws and nails;
insulation - slabs of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam;
vapor barrier membrane;
polyethylene film for vapor barrier;
penoizol or mounting foam;
wooden beam;
aluminum reinforcing tape.

The design of the floor covering on logs is the most popular one used in modern construction. In the first case, when installation is carried out according to wooden beams of the first floor in a high-rise building, or in a wooden frame house, the foundation must be made following the following sequence:

Source: http://stroitel.linpc.ru

the soil under the base is selected to a depth of about half a meter, after which markings are made for the posts, in increments of 60 to 70 centimeters;
the base under the posts must be rigid, so it is filled and compacted, or filled with concrete;
the upper part of the columns is aligned using a level;
fill the thermal insulation layer so that at least 25 cm remains to the top of the columns. Expanded clay is the most popular insulation when carrying out such work, sawdust is also often used for these purposes;
after the solution has completely hardened, the beams are laid;
it is convenient when the supports are placed first around the perimeter, and then in the center of the room;
waterproofing is laid on top of the supports in two layers (polyethylene film, roofing felt or backfill types of waterproofing);
logs are installed. Most often, they are mounted perpendicular to the light from the window opening, in order to then lay the boards along it. First, logs are installed around the perimeter, with a distance from the wall of 2 to 3 centimeters. After this, intermediate ones are set. The logs are mounted on the base without the use of rigid fasteners. To strengthen the structure and give it rigidity, you can connect the logs to each other using wooden jumpers attached to galvanized corners.
For additional insulation bars are nailed to the joists, on which the subfloor (plywood or OSB boards). It is recommended to lay it not too tightly, leaving gaps that will subsequently serve for ventilation;
a layer is laid waterproofing film, which is usually secured with a construction stapler. All joints are glued using reinforced tape;
insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, penoplex) is laid, on top of which a vapor barrier membrane is fixed;
Using liquid penoizol, the joints between the wall and the film are processed. This is additional protection for the entire structure;
The plank floor covering is being laid.

From this video instruction you will learn how to install different floor coverings in a country house:

Now you know what a screed on wooden beams looks like, and you have become familiar with all the stages of work. But how to do it correctly on the ground? Such a covering can be installed in any home, regardless of the level of underground groundwater, on any foundation. The only exception is a building on stilts. Such a base is simple and reliable, easy to self-execution. There are no basements or gaps for ventilation in the subfloor.

A proper wooden floor screed consists of nine main layers, each of which performs its own function. The thickness of them can vary for each building individually. They all fit in a strictly defined sequence:

a layer of prepared clay, the purpose of which is to stop groundwater, or more precisely, to cut off their capillary rise;
sand is poured in to weaken the capillary rise of water and to relieve the pressure of subsequent layers. You can use sand of any quality, including unwashed quarry sand;
a layer of coarse (with a fraction of 40–60 mm) crushed stone, which also prevents the rise of water. Each of the listed 3 layers must have a height of at least 10 centimeters and must be compacted. It is impossible to change the order of their filling, since in this case deformation and destruction of the entire structure will very quickly occur;
layer polyethylene film, used to prevent laitance from flowing into the lower layers. It is laid in 2 layers with an overlap, all joints and places where it touches the wall are carefully glued;
rough concreting is performed using “lean concrete”, for which fine (with a fraction of 10–12 mm) crushed stone and washed sand are used. Dispersed reinforcement using steel fiber is also carried out. The freshly poured solution needs to be leveled using corner marks, this will simplify further work floor installation;
a waterproofing layer is laid, for which regular will do roofing felt In some cases, it is recommended to lay it in two layers, the joints are soldered using a construction hair dryer;
As the next layer (thermal insulation), any insulation is used - polystyrene foam, penoplex. The joints between the insulation boards are also carefully taped to avoid heat loss;
a finishing screed is performed, during which “warm floors” can be installed immediately;
laying flooring, which can be anything the homeowner desires.

This is how the foundation is “prepared” parquet board, laminate, linoleum and other coatings. As we see, there are no particular difficulties in working on correct installation gender with my own hands no, and anyone with minimal construction skills can handle them. Well, it's time to get down to business!

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