Why is it better to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the outside than from the inside? Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof - choice of materials and installation schemes. Is it necessary to insulate the ceiling in a private house?

There is no need to convince developers that in private houses with a “cold” roof it is necessary to insulate the ceiling on the top floor. The question is different: how to do it correctly with your own hands, without overpaying extra money for materials. The step-by-step guide outlined in this article will help you find out the answer. Here we will explain how to insulate the floor from the attic (or room) side and what measures to take to prevent condensation.

What is the best way to insulate attic floors?

The range of materials for ceiling insulation is so wide that it is not easy for the average homeowner to make a choice. Judge for yourself:

mineral wool based on glass fiber and basalt fiber;
polymer insulation - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam;
bulk building materials – vermiculite, expanded clay;
folk remedies - sawdust, straw or reeds (can be used mixed with clay);
A relatively new cellulose-based insulator is ecowool.

This is what ecowool application looks like

When comparing insulation materials, one cannot say that one is bad and the other is good. They differ greatly in properties, price and scope of application. The budget allocated by the developer for thermal insulation of the ceilings of a private house or cottage also plays an important role. Therefore, it is worth considering each group of materials separately.

Mineral wool products

These porous building materials are produced in the form of slabs and rolls, the density varies between 35-150 kg/m3. Let's list their features:

Basalt mineral wool does not burn at all and can easily withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, and with further heating it is destroyed without ignition. The heat resistance limit of glass wool is 200 °C, so it is considered a low-flammable substance.
Both insulators allow water vapor to pass through well and are capable of absorbing moisture, as a result of which they lose their thermal insulation properties.
In terms of cost, cotton wool occupies a middle position between cheap polystyrene foam and more expensive polystyrene foam.
The thermal conductivity of mineral wool products depends on their density. The average value is 0.045 W/m°C, this is a fairly high figure.
Dense slabs are rarely eaten by rodents.

Basalt wool slabs

Reference. According to the regulations of most countries, glass wool is prohibited for indoor use because it is unsafe for the health of residents of residential buildings. The most famous manufacturers– brands Ursa (Ursa) and Izover (Izover).

The main area of application for both types of mineral wool is wooden and frame houses. Unlike polymer insulating materials, it allows wood to “breathe” and not rot from moisture, since it has high vapor permeability. At the same time, fiber insulation requires protection from direct moisture from the street.

Fiberglass slabs and rolls can be used to insulate ceilings from the outside, from the cold attic side. Stone wool can be used from the inside of buildings, but it must be hermetically sealed with a vapor barrier film.

Warm polymers

In terms of properties, this group of insulation materials is the exact opposite of mineral wool. Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam, well known under the name Penoplex (brand name), are capable of igniting and burning, no matter what manufacturers claim. And only polyurethane applied mechanized way in the form of foam, can withstand fire for no longer than 30 minutes, and then collapses. At the same time, the materials practically do not allow steam to pass through and do not lose their properties when wet.

This is how polyurethane foam is sprayed

Note. Polystyrene foam is still permeable to moisture, although it allows it to pass through in smaller quantities than cotton wool.

The thermal insulation characteristics of polymers are the best among all insulation materials:

polystyrene foam – 0.04 W/m°C;
extruded polystyrene foam – 0.035 W/m°C;
polyurethane foam – 0.03 W/m°C.

Insulation materials are not good friends with wood, which often leads to its rotting at the point of contact. Therefore, in wooden dwellings and steam rooms, baths with high humidity their use is allowed together with an active device supply and exhaust ventilation. The materials are best combined with concrete ceilings and basement floors.

Polystyrene foam is the cheapest, but is inferior in durability, and mice love to chew it. Foamed polyurethane is also inexpensive, but requires costs to apply using specialized equipment. Expanded polystyrene occupies an average position in terms of cost, and in terms of practicality it ranks first. It is strong and durable, and can be easily installed on ceilings with your own hands, including from inside the premises.

Here you can see that Penoplex is simply screwed on with self-tapping screws

Other insulation materials

We have combined these building materials into a common group based on one characteristic - loose structure. Their thermal conductivity indicators are shown in the table:

Bulk insulation is popular due to its low cost (except for vermiculite) and ease of use. But we must understand that in temperate latitudes the calculated layer of the same expanded clay should be at least 40 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation will be mediocre. It is not always possible to load the ceiling with such a mass.

Straw is not inferior to polystyrene foam in terms of thermal conductivity, but when dry it is stored for only a few years. To extend its service life, it is customary to mix it with clay, but then the insulating properties are reduced, as can be seen from the table. A compromise option is fine sawdust, poured in a thick layer.

Reference. Rodents love all organic insulation materials. They appear at the beginning of the cold period and make nests for the winter in a layer of sawdust or adobe.

It turns out that these budget materials can be used for thermal insulation of floors, but with reservations. Vermiculite is expensive, and it only makes sense to fill in expanded clay in the southern regions. To use sawdust, you need to take measures to combat rodents, for example, install ultrasonic repellers.

Determination of thermal insulation thickness

When we have figured out how to insulate the ceiling, we need to find out the thickness of the insulating layer. Ideally, such calculations should be performed by design engineers using rather complex techniques. It takes into account the thermal conductivity of all construction materials, including plasterboard cladding.

We offer a simpler method that allows you to determine the thickness of the insulation with acceptable accuracy using a simple formula. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Find out the exact thermal conductivity λ (W/m°C) of the selected material or take the value indicated in the table below.
In the regulatory construction documentation of your country of residence, find out the minimum permissible heat transfer resistance R (m²°C/W) for floors in a particular region.
Calculate the thickness of the insulation in meters using the formula δ = R x λ.

Example. According to SNiP, floor insulation in Moscow must provide heat transfer resistance R = 4.15 m²°C/W. If you lay foam plastic with thermal conductivity λ = 0.04 W/m°C on the ceiling, you will need a thickness of δ = 4.15 x 0.04 = 0.166 m or rounded 170 mm. The thinnest layer will be made of polyurethane foam - 125 mm, and the thickest will be made of expanded clay (415 mm).

How to insulate the attic side

External thermal insulation of building structures is considered correct, since it eliminates the need to deal with condensation that may form at the junction ceiling material with insulation. When the latter is located on the cold side, water vapor from living quarters cannot enter its thickness and condense, causing mold to appear.

To block the path of steam into the attic, the first layer in the “pie” is a regular thick film, as shown in the diagram. Thermal insulation is laid on top of it, and sheathing is lined underneath. interior decoration ceiling. You need to make a ventilation gap (vent) above the insulation, and then cover it with a waterproofing membrane that allows moisture to pass in only one direction - out.

Note. The gap between the insulating layer and the membrane is necessary to remove condensate formed due to the dew point. Without ventilation, moisture will accumulate in the insulation, reducing its ability to withstand the cold. For this purpose, natural ventilation is organized under the roof.

Ceiling insulation in the attic of a pitched roof is carried out using the following technology:

The vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from below using brackets or using sheathing strips. If the ceilings are already hemmed and tiled, then lay the film on the floor of the attic, going around the boards, as shown in the photo above.
Lay a row of slab or roll insulation between the beams. If the pitch of the rafters does not match the width of the insulation, cut the latter exactly to the size between the boards.
When it is necessary to make 2 or 3 layers, lay the slabs apart (overlapping the lower joints) and the beams themselves. Soft roll material do not tamp or wrinkle, it should be completely straightened.
If the level of thermal insulation is below the roofing boards, then the ventilation duct is considered ready. All that remains is to cover the entire area diffusion membrane, nail the counter-lattice bars and the boardwalk.
The opposite situation: the insulation is above the level of the beams. Then they need to be increased wooden blocks, securing the latter across the boards.

The construction of an expanded clay or sawdust insulation layer is also made using vapor barrier films. The material is poured between the beams to the calculated height, leveled and covered with a membrane. There is no need to compact sawdust, so as not to deteriorate their thermal insulation properties.

The concrete covering under the pitched roof is insulated using the same technology. The thermal insulation process is demonstrated in more detail in the video:

Interior cladding

Not always there technical feasibility carry out external thermal insulation of coatings yourself. There are many examples: apartments on the top floors, loggias with balconies, attics of private houses. In these cases, there is nothing left but to insulate the ceiling from the inside. So feel free to start preparing - seal all the cracks with polyurethane foam, treat the wood with an antiseptic, and treat the concrete with an appropriate primer.

There are 2 ways internal insulation coatings:

Installation of slab material - polystyrene or basalt wool - with glue, followed by fastening with dowels, if we are talking about a concrete surface.
Installation of suspended ceilings with laying of insulation under the cladding.

In the first option, mineral wool or polystyrene boards are attached to the ceiling using an adhesive mixture or polyurethane foam so that the joints of adjacent rows do not coincide. After the glue hardens, each element is additionally fixed with dowels in the form of mushrooms, as shown in the photo. From below, the insulation is covered with vapor insulation, after which it is mounted finishing coat– plaster or suspended ceiling.

In the second case, a metal or wooden frame with a batten pitch equal to the width of the insulation (usually 600 mm). The lower plane of the frame should be spaced from the ceiling by the thickness of the insulation or be lower. Then a roll of mineral wool is taken and inserted between the slats, with additional fixation with dowels, and the polystyrene foam boards are placed on the glue. Next comes vapor barrier and finishing.

Conclusion

When insulating ceilings yourself, it is important not to confuse the vapor barrier and waterproofing films, and to install the superdiffusion membrane correctly - with the marked side up. This is the only difficult moment in the entire procedure; the rest of the work is quite simple. The last nuance: after unpacking the mineral wool roll, let it straighten and do not compress it any more during installation: this is the working condition of the material.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

A wooden house is a warm structure in itself. That is why many city residents are leaving their cramped apartments and moving to a suburban home. Wooden buildings are convenient and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer it is pleasantly cool, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: you cannot do without insulation for the ceiling of a wooden room.

Often, all heat loss from the inside occurs due to improperly finished ceilings. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you may not expect coziness and comfort in the winter. They won't help modern windows and insulation of walls, it all depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several affordable and simple ways to insulate from the inside and outside with your own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation outside from the attic and inside the room. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to install the floor covering.

When insulating, you need to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, noise insulation, fire resistance

When choosing the right material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

strength and durability;
no harm to health;
fire resistance;
reliable thermal insulation qualities;
presence of sound insulation.

What can be used?

mineral or glass wool;
sawdust;
polyurethane foam;
Styrofoam;
clay;
expanded clay

Using sawdust

They are the cheapest and in an accessible way insulation from the outside, while not inferior in quality expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done with your own hands. First you should prepare the materials:

several bags of sawdust;
insulating material. It is necessary to calculate the required amount. To do this, you need to know exactly the surface area;
cement.

A mixture of sawdust and cement for ceiling insulation

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to correctly calculate the required number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be needed for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will act as insulation.. What should sawdust be like? The first ones you come across are no good. The material must meet the following requirements:

dryness, lack of moisture;
age at least one year;
absence of mold and its smell;
the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

The sawdust mixture should be evenly distributed over the ceiling surface

Sequencing:

Clean the surface from dust and dirt.
Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
Take the waterproofing material prepared in advance and lay it over the entire floor space.
Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a rich gray color.
Distribute the mixture throughout the entire inter-ceiling space.
You can walk on the thermal insulation layer to compact it. This will allow the mixture to set better and not allow heat to escape.

If you have access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house only from the inside, you will have to choose a different method.

What are the benefits of rolled materials?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other roll insulation materials, reliably protect the room, but they are difficult to work with: small particles fall off and get into the mouth, nose, and eyes. To avoid injury, you need to take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and glasses.

Scheme of ceiling insulation with rolled materials, mats and bulk materials

Sequence of stages:

Nails are hammered onto the rough surface. In this case, you need to hammer in not up to the head, but so that they stick out slightly. Then the threads are pulled over them using the zigzag technique.
The insulation itself is installed. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. This way the glass wool can be inserted better.
Anti-condensation film is attached.
Now you can nail the nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
You can nail sheets of drywall or attach a false ceiling.

Attention: work requires caution and attention. It is necessary to ensure that there are no cracks: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

A widely known material that can retain heat. Only used when adding other materials. Sawdust and glassine are usually added.

Clay retains heat perfectly, so it is used for insulation

Sequence of work:

lay glassine or any other analogue;
mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
Apply the mixture in a 15 cm layer and let dry. If there are cracks, they need to be rubbed with clay.

Insulation from the inside

What to do if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease somewhat. Now the thermal insulation will be on the inside. How to carry out the work?

It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent dampness of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after this can the decorative ceiling be hemmed. How to do the work?

The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same glassine will do. It can be coated with glue in several places.
A mounting strip is driven through the vapor barrier. It’s better to take your time and do everything as carefully as possible: holes are drilled in the mounting rails for self-tapping screws, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
Thermal insulation is fixed. Polystyrene foam is inserted between the slats.
A second layer of vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
The entire structure is masked with PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another simplest and most accessible method after sawdust. Pros:

ecologically pure;
unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
resistant to temperature changes;
not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
simple installation technology;
low price;
easy to do with your own hands.

Expanded clay insulation scheme

All work is carried out outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing felt: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-flammable materials. Sheets of iron or metal pipes are suitable.
Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area. The joints need to be processed. The waterproofing is securely fixed using a stapler or special tape.
Vapor barrier is being laid. The overlap laying technology is suitable. Then everything is secured with a stapler.
You need to lay 5 cm of crushed soft clay on the vapor barrier layer.
Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay. How to determine the layer thickness? It can be from 15 cm or more.
A screed is laid on the expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.

There are foam ceiling tiles - they themselves protect pretty well from the cold.
Don't stop at insulating the ceiling. Walls and floors can also transmit heat.
If difficulties arise when insulating with your own hands, it is better to turn to craftsmen who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling brings virtually no benefit.
Fitting with plasterboard requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this necessary? If you do not do this, you may soon suffer from a fallen structure.
In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold weather the excess moisture has time to evaporate.

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all work should be done immediately upon moving in.

A person is comfortable in a house that is warm, dry and cozy. A properly constructed roof is responsible for the absence of leaks. Comfort in a home consists of the interior, atmosphere and the absence of extraneous noise. Insulating and soundproofing the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool will make the house a warm and calm place.

Mineral wool. General information

Before insulating the ceiling with mineral wool, you need to choose the right material and study its properties. Mineral wool has two classifications.

The first is in form:

Variety table mineral wool

mats (rolled into rolls for transportation, have low strength characteristics);
slabs (rigid or semi-rigid, have increased strength and can be used, for example, in floor construction);
cylinders (special products made of mineral wool intended for insulation of pipelines).

The second classification is based on the raw materials used for manufacturing:

Basalt fiber is the most common type of insulation. The second name is stone wool. This type of wool is the most durable and is used for insulating surfaces subject to severe loads and mechanical stress. To make the material, basalt is crushed and melted, after which the finest fibers are obtained from it. The fibers are pressed by heating them to a high temperature. Basalt insulation is produced in the form of rigid slabs.

The manufacturing method of glass wool is similar to basalt fiber. Another mineral, quartz, is used as the starting material. Glass fiber allows broken glass to be reused. Manufacturers use broken glass, its amount can reach up to 80% of all raw materials for production. Glass wool is available in the form of mats, rigid and semi-rigid slabs.

The last type of mineral wool is slag material. Slag wool is made from industrial waste. Used as raw materials the following types slags:

This type of raw material is low in cost, but its environmental friendliness leaves much to be desired.

It is better to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool:

rigid basalt slabs for insulation from above (outside the room, from the attic);
mats that have light weight for insulation from below (from the side of the room).

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

Mineral wool heat insulator for insulation in a private house has the following advantages:

high level of thermal insulation (a fairly thin layer of material is needed to provide thermal protection);
good sound insulation characteristics;
fire resistance and fire safety;
the material does not change shape when the ambient temperature changes;
resistance to microorganisms, mold and mildew;
resistance to aggressive environments;
strength for some brands.

Thermal protection of the ceiling with mineral wool also has disadvantages:

the weight of the material is quite large (compared to polystyrene), this is especially important when insulating the ceiling in a private house from below (from the side of the room);
difficulty in working with the material due to the need to apply additional funds protection;
the ability of mineral wool to absorb moisture, thereby reducing its thermal insulation properties.

Safety precautions

When working with mineral wool insulation in a private house, it is necessary to take into account the features of its structure. The material is made of tiny fibers that can separate and enter the human body. To prevent harm to workers and residents of the house, you need to pay attention to the following points:

gloves, masks and overalls for workers to prevent material fibers from getting into the skin and lungs;
preventing contact of air flows entering the ventilation system with the surface of the insulation to prevent danger to residents.

Insulation technology

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool can be done in two ways. The choice of method largely depends on the type of insulated floor. For the interfloor, from which side the activities are carried out is not significant. It is better to insulate the attic floor from the cold air side (outside), this is a more competent solution from the point of view of heating engineering. Insulating the attic floor from the inside has the following disadvantages:

reducing the height of the room;
Only the room is protected from the cold; the ceiling structure is exposed to low temperatures;
condensation may occur in the thickness of the ceiling structure;
the difficulty of performing insulation work in a private house, since it will have to be done on high altitude with your head raised for a long time.

Scheme of insulation of the attic floor from the outside

Insulation of the attic floor from above (outside) should be carried out in compliance with the following order of laying materials:

overlap;
vapor barrier layer;
insulation layer;
waterproofing layer;
reinforced concrete screed.

In this case, only hard types of mineral wool are used. It is not allowed to use the material in rolls, since it is deformed when walking on the floor of the attic.

Ceiling insulation scheme with mineral wool

When carrying out measures for thermal insulation of the ceiling in a house from the inside of the room, the arrangement of layers changes (from bottom to top):

For these purposes, heavy mineral wool slabs are not used, as when insulating the outside. It is better to purchase mineral wool mats that have a lower density.

Ceiling insulation interfloor covering carried out in the same way as for the ceiling of the upper floor. The difference lies in the thickness of the heat layer insulating material.

For thermal insulation to be effective, you need to choose the right thickness of the material. For mineral wool in most climatic regions of the country it is enough to lay a layer 10-15 cm thick (for sound insulation 3-5 cm).

To perform a full calculation, you need to familiarize yourself with the SP " Thermal protection buildings" and perform calculations manually. You can also use the special “Teremok” program, which even a non-specialist can understand.

Proper ceiling insulation using mineral wool can eliminate problems with indoor microclimate and high noise levels. It is important to remember that mineral wool is afraid of moisture, and hydro- and vapor barrier cannot be neglected.

How to insulate a ceiling with mineral wool: methods and recommendations

Ceiling insulation is made with various materials, but mineral wool is more often used. We will tell you how to insulate a ceiling with mineral wool from the inside and outside.

Insulating the ceiling with mineral wool (mineral wool) - step-by-step instructions

The conditions of the Russian climate with short summers and long frosty winters create the need to take additional measures to insulate residential buildings. One of them is covering the ceiling with mineral wool. This procedure will ultimately help not only to increase the period of heat retention in the premises, but also to avoid the appearance of mold and mildew on the ceiling due to condensation, which is formed as a result of direct collision of cold and warm air.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

The most important thing is that it has excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs. Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the foil-coated nature of the mineral wool - it’s good if one side of the roll or slab is covered with a layer of waterproofing foil. If there is no such layer, then, ideally, you need to additionally purchase several rolls of foil polyethylene foam. Instead, you can use thick plastic film. Glassine is suitable as a vapor barrier. These materials are necessary to keep mineral wool dry, because wet insulation loses up to 40% of its thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will need self-tapping screws, fasteners with a wide plastic head, a counter-batten, glue for mineral wool, a profile and hangers for the profile, a stationery knife, a construction stapler, nails, a screwdriver, a hammer and a tape measure.

The most common thickness of the produced layers of mineral wool is 10 and 5 cm. When insulating the ceiling, a layer of insulation 10 cm thick is sufficient, especially difficult cases– 15-20 cm. According to the method of performing the work, insulation is divided into internal, external and combined.

Types of mineral wool

Internal insulation

The need for internal ceiling insulation is most typical for houses with several floors or with an attic, as well as for city apartments. The entire scope of work consists of the following stages:

Ceiling lathing - can be made of boards with a section of 30-40 x 100-200 mm (the width of the board directly depends on the thickness of the insulation layer) or a metal profile. The lathing is attached to the ceiling using nails or self-tapping screws, and the distance between adjacent parts should be about 50-60 cm, depending on the width of the mineral wool used.

Ceiling lathing

Fastening mineral wool to the ceiling

We attach mineral wool to the ceiling

External insulation

This method is used in private houses with an attic. Compared to internal insulation, this type of insulation is simpler to implement and takes much less time and effort. So:

The entire area of the attic is covered with an overlapping layer of vapor barrier material (glassine) 5-10 cm wide, the joints are taped with adhesive tape or tape.
The sheathing is made from boards with a section of 30-40 x 100-200 mm (the width, as with internal insulation, depends on the thickness of the mineral wool layer). The distance between adjacent beams is calculated according to the width of the roll or insulation boards.

We make lathing (grooves) for laying mineral wool

Lay a layer of foam plastic

The process of laying mineral wool in grooves on the roof

Combined insulation

Combined insulation is the installation of mineral wool on the ceiling both from the inside and from the attic. This method of insulation is typical for rooms in which it is necessary to maintain elevated temperatures for a long time - baths, saunas, steam rooms, etc.

In conclusion, a few words should be said about small tricks that will help avoid numerous problems after insulating the ceiling with mineral wool:

· The small fibers that make up mineral wool cause itching and irritation when they come into contact with exposed skin and respiratory tracts. To avoid harm to health, it is necessary to use special clothing and a respirator.
· When using metal profile lathing, it may later turn out that cold air continues to flow through the ceiling in the corners. To eliminate the occurrence of such a problem, after fixing the metal profile to the ceiling, all corners are carefully filled with polyurethane foam.
· Due to errors in calculations, the thickness of the mineral wool layer may exceed the width of the lathing. In this case, additional bars are nailed onto the wooden beams. If the sheathing is made of a metal profile, you will have to replace the hangers or reduce the insulation layer.
· When laying mineral wool, compacting and pressing it is strictly prohibited - this leads to a decrease in the number of air bubbles inside the insulation and, as a result, loss of thermal insulation properties.
· In places where spotlights are installed, it is necessary to provide space for air circulation in order to avoid subsequent problems with their constant burnout.
· The most suitable screws for fixing a metal profile are self-tapping screws made of hardened steel.
· Define Current state insulated ceiling can be done using a device such as a thermal imager. When turned on, the screen indicates in red the places where cold air passes through.
All of the above is designed to minimize and optimize the financial and physical costs of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool. However, to obtain best result You should seek advice from specialists. They will help you make correct calculations of the required thickness of the insulation layer and, based on this, calculate the total amount of material and its cost. Often such companies directly cooperate with manufacturers of insulation materials, which can result in additional savings on purchases.

Instructions on how to insulate a ceiling in a private house with mineral wool: 5 steps

Mineral wool is widely used as insulation for houses. In the house, the question of insulating the roof often arises: you want to equip the attic or simply keep the house warm. Most often, mineral wool is used as insulation, but it is worth remembering that it is suitable for use in houses with high ceilings, otherwise the ceiling may be too low. However, first things first, today we’ll talk about the types of mineral wool, choose the best one and tell you how to properly insulate the ceiling.

Insulation of ceilings with mineral wool

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house? Nai the best option, of course, is mineral wool.

The following advantages of this type of insulation for the ceiling in the house can be mentioned:

Low heat conductivity;
Good sound insulation;
Increased fire resistance;
Quite low price;
Durability;
Easy to install.

However, mineral wool also has some disadvantages, the main one being the absolute lack of moisture resistance. When in contact with water, mineral wool quickly becomes wet and deforms, losing its functions. Also, the rather large thickness of this material can be considered a disadvantage, so it is best used for houses with high ceilings. When choosing mineral wool for ceiling insulation, you need to carefully consider the characteristics in order to purchase truly high-quality material.

Mineral wool is considered the best option for insulating ceilings.

Mineral wool has the following characteristics:

Density. This quality can really be called the most important; it shows the permissible load for mineral wool.
Thermal conductivity. Choose the material with the lowest rating - that is, with the best thermal insulation.
Size. There are many different types of mineral wool, there are rolls, tiles, and mats. Choose what you consider most convenient for work.
Thickness. Depending on the thickness, the resistance of mineral wool to low temperatures also changes. A thick layer indicates that the material retains heat well; choose cotton wool with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

The most convenient is mineral wool, made in the form of tiles; it has better elasticity and is also very easy to attach.

How to fix mineral wool on the ceiling

Before fixing mineral wool to the ceiling, it is necessary to prepare all the tools and materials in advance, this will significantly improve the speed of work.

So, to install insulation on the ceiling you need following materials and tools:

Mineral wool;
Polyethylene film;
Sealant;
Wooden slats or beams;
Dowels;
Glue;
Drill;

Using insulation, two types of insulation can be achieved: from the outside and from the inside. Internal insulation will take more effort and will cost more, and will also make the ceiling slightly lower; choose this method for a house with high ceilings.

Before fixing mineral wool to the ceiling, prepare certain tools and materials

Insulation from the inside is carried out in several stages:

First, waterproofing is installed; polyethylene is used for this.
The second step is to create a frame; it can be made using wooden beams or a metal profile. A frame is secured along the perimeter of the ceiling using dowels.
Next, you need to attach the insulation to the ceiling; this can be done using a special glue that is applied to the insulation and pressed against the ceiling.
Let the glue dry, only after complete drying fix the mineral wool slabs with dowels.
Another layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the mineral wool, and the final step is to create a flooring made of wood or plasterboard.

Mineral wool for the ceiling: which is better

Which mineral wool is best for ceiling insulation? Which cotton wool should I choose? First of all, pay attention to what material the product was made from. Mineral wool is made from stone or glass; depending on the material used, the quality of the mineral wool varies.

Glass wool, as the name implies, is made from glass; during manufacturing, sand from the glass is melted, as a result the material acquires a light color yellow.

In a wooden house, it is advisable to use glass wool to insulate the ceiling and floor.

Mineral wool for ceilings comes in several types: glass wool, stone wool and ecowool.

Glass wool has the following advantages:

Also pay attention to the country of origin. It is easy to insulate rooms with German glass wool; in general, pay attention to mineral wool from German companies - Germany has some of the highest quality thermal insulation materials. There is also stone wool, it has more disadvantages, but is also widely used. This type of wool is used for insulating ceilings and as an insulating material; stone wool has a long service life. There is also ecowool, which is made from cellulose and is also an insulating material that has a light gray color.

Ecowool is also used to insulate ceilings, because it is quite an advantageous and convenient material. Most often it is used instead of drywall and installed at the end of the insulation work.

How to lay insulation on the ceiling: step-by-step instructions

So, we insulate the inside of the attic with mineral wool in a private house with our own hands.

The sequence of actions when laying insulation on the ceiling is as follows:

First of all, a diagram of the distances between the ceiling rafters is drawn up;
Next, a diagram of the width of the mineral wool is drawn up, we measure the insulation along the width of the ceiling with a slight overlap;
The insulation is laid among the rafters, make sure that it does not fall out;
Distribute the insulating material tightly between the rafters;
Next, you need to carefully seal the insulation to prevent cold and drafts;
Secure the material with dowels;
It is also necessary to lay and secure sheets of thermal insulation, fill the gaps with polyurethane foam;
Prepare the insulated ceiling for attaching drywall;
Cover the space with plasterboard.

The insulation on the ceiling should be laid very tightly to prevent cold from appearing in the house

Remember that the insulation material must be laid tightly to prevent cold from entering the room.

It is advisable to lay insulating material outside if the ceilings are low. In this case, preparation is first made: the attic is cleared of debris, and all joints are carefully sealed with tape. Attaching the insulation is basically the same; lay the material between wooden beams and treat all the cracks with polyurethane foam. The advantage of the external insulation method is that final treatment of the ceiling with plasterboard is not required. If you often use the attic, you can lay a floor, for example, made of wood, on top of the insulating floor.

In conclusion, we can say that insulating the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool is an inexpensive and simple way to eliminate the problem of drafts and cold in the room. You can install the insulating material yourself in two ways: external and internal. The first method is suitable for rooms with low ceilings, while the second will require more money from you and will significantly lower the ceiling. Which method is preferable is up to you to decide.

How to insulate a ceiling in a private house with mineral wool: installation from the attic side, how best to secure it and how to properly

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool will be of interest to many, because this is one of the ways to solve the problem of cold in the house. How to choose the right mineral wool?

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Currently, almost all residential buildings are heated using gas or electric heat-generating equipment. Even country houses and garden houses, which are used only in summer, are no exception. Most buildings that are not used year-round are equipped with inexpensive cold-type roofs, through which the main heat losses occur while maintaining a comfortable temperature regime. In this article we will tell you how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof so that the house is always warm.

Features of cold roofs

The design of the roof depends on the nature of the use of the house and the space under the roof. It is these factors that determine the choice of shape, roofing material, rafter frame design and the presence or absence of a thermal insulation layer. In private housing construction, 2 types of roofs are used:

Warm roof. This variety roofing design provides for complete insulation of slopes. A warm roof is installed if the room located under the slopes is used as a living space. It is considered an excellent option for equipping a residential attic. It makes sense to build roofs of this type for houses that are used and heated all year round, since they eliminate heat loss through the slopes. Cost of materials and installation work for the construction of a warm roof is significantly higher than the cost of constructing a cold one.

Important! If the attic space is not heated, then the air in it serves as a kind of buffer zone, which serves as thermal insulation and reduces heat loss. The air rising from the heated rooms of the first floor, according to the law of convection, gradually cools and does not heat the surface of the slopes from the inside, due to which ice does not form on them.

To retain heat, as well as reduce fuel consumption to maintain optimal temperature, using loose or fiber thermal insulation materials insulate the ceiling located under the cold roof. Since heated air always rises, this operation is effective measure reducing heat loss.

Thermal insulation methods

High-quality thermal insulation reduces heat loss and home heating costs by 30%, which is a good saving in terms of the family budget. The use of suitable insulation and the correct choice of installation method create a comfortable microclimate in the room. The issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling under a cold roof is best decided at the stage of building a house, then you can choose the most effective and convenient option. Most often, insulation is installed in 2 ways:

Insulation from the attic side. Builders consider the most effective and correct way to insulate the ceiling located under the cold roof on the attic side. The fact is that the ceiling is most often made of wood, which in itself is a good peat-insulating material. In this case, the insulation is laid on the attic floor and covered with a subfloor. If insulation is carried out from the attic side, then materials in the form of slabs or backfill can be used.

Note! Any thermal insulation works comprehensively. Therefore, if you want to solve problems with heat loss in a house with a cold roof, don’t worry about thermal insulation of the floor, door and window openings. A clear way to analyze where the heat goes is to look at the house with a thermal imager in winter. To improve the energy efficiency of your home, you need to pay attention to the areas painted red and yellow, as it is through them that heat escapes.

The modern construction market offers an impressive range of materials for thermal insulation, but not all of them are suitable for insulating the ceiling under a cold roof. In order for the costs to be justified, it is necessary that the thermal insulating layer is resistant to moisture, has low thermal conductivity and meets safety standards for human health. The following materials are used for insulation:

Expanded clay. Expanded clay is a fill-type insulation material that is produced by firing clay shale. It has light weight, a porous structure and high thermal insulation properties, and is not susceptible to moisture. To insulate the ceiling using this material, lay on the attic floor vapor barrier film, secure with construction stapler, and then fill with expanded clay with a layer of 15-30 cm. If a finished floor is installed in the attic, then fill the space between the joists with insulation.

Experienced craftsmen remind us that vapor barrier and waterproofing layers play an important role in insulating the floor located under a cold roof. To protect the insulation from getting wet as a result of interaction with heated air saturated with water vapor, a vapor barrier membrane is first laid. And from the roof side it is protected from leaks using waterproofing film.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof? Comparison of the effectiveness of materials and methods used for thermal insulation of attic floors.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof

According to the laws of physics, the air heated in the room rises to the ceiling, and if the attic floor has insufficient insulation, then the heat goes outside - this process is called heat loss. In order not to “heat” the street and retain as much heat as possible in the house, it is necessary to thermally insulate the ceiling. You should know that from 25 to 40% of heat can escape through the ceiling and roof. It is especially important to take this into account if the house has a “cold” roof.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof is best thought out in advance, during the process of building a house, but sometimes this has to be done in an already erected building.

Floor insulation performs not one, but three functions at once, necessary for a comfortable microclimate in the house:

The insulating material is also an excellent sound insulator, so it will keep the house quiet during heavy rain and wind.
In winter, the material retains heat in the rooms, since rising to the ceiling and not finding “bridges” for free exit, it falls back down, remaining indoors.
IN summer heat insulation creates an obstacle for heated air to enter the rooms from the outside, so they will remain cool.

There are many materials and ways to use them to make the ceiling of a house thermally insulated. To choose the one that is suitable in terms of installation complexity and financial costs, you need to consider several of them.

Types of insulation materials for the ceiling of a house

When choosing insulation, you need to pay special attention to the following criteria:

Thermal conductivity. The lower this parameter is, the better.
Moisture resistance is especially important for insulation that will be installed from the attic.
The flammability of the material must be low or the material must be completely non-flammable.
Long life of insulation.
Environmentally friendly raw materials and binders from which the heat insulator is made.

There are also individual parameters for each of the materials that will be characterized when considering insulation in the future.

To insulate the ceiling and the entire attic floor, the following is usually used:

Mineral wool (basalt and glass), produced in rolls and mats.
Expanded clay of various fractions.
Sawdust and small shavings.
Ecowool, which is made from cellulose.
Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
Polyurethane foam or penoizol.

In addition to the above insulation materials, traditionally dry leaves and straw have always been used to insulate the ceiling. It must be said that even today some craftsmen are in no hurry to abandon them, but their installation requires knowledge of technology, since this natural material itself is not moisture resistant and not durable.

All insulation materials used to insulate the ceiling are light in weight, since they should not weigh down the ceiling structure.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool can be called the most popular material for ceiling insulation. It is used for installation from the side of the attic and rooms, since its characteristics are well suited for these works.

Mineral wool is produced from various raw materials - these are blast furnace slag, broken glass and sand, as well as basalt rocks.

It should be noted right away that material made from blast furnace slag (slag wool) is poorly suited for insulating a residential building. There may be high humidity in the attic, especially in spring and autumn period, and it is very hygroscopic, which significantly reduces its thermal insulation qualities. The residual acidity of the material has a very negative effect on other Construction Materials, especially ferrous metals.

Slag wool - unsuitable for residential construction

Slag wool has coarse and brittle fibers, so it is not recommended for use in residential premises, since their small particles can become suspended in the air.

Its only advantage is its low price compared to other types.

This insulation is made from molten glass mass from which thin fibers are drawn. Next, they are formed into webs, rolled into rolls or cut into individual mats. Glass wool has a lower thermal conductivity than slag wool and basalt insulation, and the moisture absorption of this material is 0.55÷0.8 kg/m².

It is not advisable to use glass wool to insulate the ceiling from the inside.

Glass wool is used to insulate attic floors in buildings built from different materials, often in combination with other heat insulators. However, it should only be used for laying from the attic side, since its fibers, like those of slag wool, are fragile and brittle, can cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes, so it is undesirable for them to enter living spaces.

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt rocks and is the best option for insulating the ceiling on the side of the rooms from all “brothers”. The fibers are more flexible and therefore less brittle. They are tightly compressed into mats that have fairly good strength. The material withstands impacts well external factors, therefore suitable for installation from the attic side. Insulation can be sold in rolls or slabs of different densities.

The optimal choice among all mineral wools is basalt

Basalt wool can have a foil layer, which, if installed correctly, will enhance the insulating effect by reflecting heat into the room.

A common drawback for all types of mineral wool is their binder, consisting of phenol-formaldehyde resins, which will constantly be released into the air, which is quite dangerous for the health of the residents of the house. Therefore, this insulation cannot be considered completely environmentally friendly.

Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material, as it is made from natural clay, so it is perfect for insulating attic floors. It is not flammable and does not emit harmful substances when heated. A mound of it can have different densities, since expanded clay is produced in different fractions, and what smaller size grains or granules, the higher the density, the lower the insulating qualities.

Expanded clay of various fractions

In order to insulate the ceiling, the most optimal choice there will be expanded clay with a granule size of 4-10 mm.

Expanded clay does not generate dust and does not cause allergic reactions. The insulation has a long service life and does not lose its original qualities throughout the entire period of use.

The material is highly heat-resistant, so it is often used to separate the chimney from the wooden ceiling by filling it into a metal passage box arranged around the pipe.

The table below shows comparative characteristics two environmentally pure materials- expanded clay and ecowool, which will be discussed now.

– 15-20 mm – presence of voids;

– 5-10 mm – tight fit.

This insulation is not as popular as mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but it is increasingly used to insulate the floors and walls of private houses. Ecowool consists of small cellulose fibers, and it is laid using a “wet” or “dry” method.

One of the most promising insulation materials is ecowool.

The “dry” method involves scattering, distributing and compacting the insulation between the floor beams or joists attached to them.
For installation using the “wet” method, special equipment is required, where fibers are mixed with an adhesive composition, and wet ecowool under pressure is fed through a special pipe and distributed over the surface.

Spraying ecowool using special compressor equipment

Ecowool can be laid in a layer of any thickness, since it has very little weight even when compacted, and will not weigh down the attic floor. Thanks to its “airiness”, it will perfectly insulate the ceiling.
This insulation consists of environmentally friendly materials and does not release toxic substances into the premises.
Ecowool has the quality of “preserving” surfaces, preventing the formation of mold or other types of microflora.
The heat insulator has a long service life and does not lose its qualities throughout the entire time.
If necessary, the layer can be supplemented and compacted. Laying the material is carried out quite quickly, especially if special equipment is used for it.
Ecowool is a slightly flammable and self-extinguishing insulation material, as it is treated with fire retardants during production. It does not produce much smoke and does not emit hazardous combustion products.
Forming a seamless and airtight coating, the insulation provides good protection from both cold and heat.
It is important that cellulose wool is a “breathable” material, so it will not retain moisture.

The payback period for such insulation will be two to three years, depending on the installation method and the thickness of the applied layer.

Expanded polystyrene

Foam plastic has been used for insulation work for more than half a century, and during this time it has shown its positive traits, as well as numerous disadvantages. But, despite the latter, it continues to be used because it is easy to install and has an affordable price.

Polystyrene foam is most often used in combination with polyurethane foam, which seals the insulating coating.

Polystyrene foam probably has more disadvantages than advantages

The negative qualities of polystyrene foam include its flammability with melting and a large amount of poisonous toxic smoke. Therefore, in some Western countries, foam plastic is completely prohibited for use in construction. It is being replaced with extruded polystyrene foam, since this material, manufactured without disrupting technological processes, is slightly flammable and self-extinguishing. However, EPS also has increased toxicity in a fire, and its use at home should be treated with a certain bias.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a sprayable material, so its application cannot take place without special equipment. If necessary, it can be sprayed in several layers, so it is often used to insulate houses located in the most severe climatic zones.

Sprayed polyurethane foam creates an airtight seal seamless coating

When applied, polyurethane foam fills all, even the smallest, cracks, cracks and voids and, expanding, forms a seamless sealed coating. The frozen layer has a high density - you can walk on it, and no dents or cracks will appear on it. Thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W/mK and water absorption is no more than 0.2% of its total volume - this means that its heat-insulating qualities are maintained at any ambient humidity.

Once cured, excess material that may rise above the floor beams can be easily removed sharp knife, which makes the material easy to adapt to common plane attic floor surfaces.

Another advantage of polyurethane foam is the fact that it does not require auxiliary hydro- and vapor barrier materials, since it initially already has similar qualities.

Video: review of modern insulation materials

Relatively inexpensive material For ceiling insulation you can call sawdust and small shavings. Typically, these lumber are used in combination, since the shavings create the porous part of the insulation, and the sawdust layer makes it denser.

Ordinary sawdust can be a good insulation material

This insulation has been used for a long time and has not lost its popularity, since its main advantage over modern heat insulators is 100% environmental friendliness and naturalness.

At correct installation shavings and sawdust on the ceiling will perfectly insulate the ceiling, but for the material to be effective, you need to accurately calculate the thickness of the layer being laid depending on the winter temperatures of a particular region.

Sawdust and shavings can be used for insulation in their pure form, as well as in combination with other materials. Sometimes pellets made from small sawdust molded into granules are used as insulation.

The disadvantage of sawdust is its flammability. Therefore, it is recommended to mix them with fire retardant compounds, clay or cement mortar before filling them into the ceiling. After this treatment, the insulation becomes completely non-flammable or slightly flammable.

Composition for fire and bioprotection of wood

If you plan to insulate the ceiling using sawdust, then all wooden elements of the ceiling should be prudently treated with fire retardants and separated from the chimney, and electrical cables insulate using special corrugated tubes.

In addition to sawdust and shavings, folk craftsmen have long used other natural insulation materials.

Insulation of the ceiling from the room side

Insulation of the ceiling from the premises can be done in two ways:

By gluing insulation boards to the surface and fixing them using “fungi” fasteners.
Fastening lathing made of wooden blocks or metal profiles to the ceiling at a distance of the width of the insulating material, and laying it between the guides.

But for any insulation option it is necessary to carry out some preparatory processes, otherwise it will not be effective.

Ceiling preparation

The process of preparing the ceiling depends on what material it is made of, since each of them will require a separate approach.

If there is flooring in the house wooden ceiling, then the work is carried out as follows:

The surface should be treated with an antiseptic primer with a fire retardant effect. The coating should be carried out very carefully, deepening the brush into the cracks between the boards, if they are found on the ceiling.

The next step is to seal all the cracks. If they are small in size, they can be filled with wood putty. If there are large gaps, it is better to use polyurethane foam. After it has hardened, the protruding excess should be carefully cut off with a knife, leveling it with the general plane.

Preparing the concrete surface occurs a little differently:

If the ceiling is not new and has a decorative coating, then it needs to be removed. There is no need to remove well-applied plaster, but if it begins to peel off, it must be cleaned.
Cracks found on the surface of concrete or plaster must be carefully widened, then cleaned with soft brushes and treated with a primer.
Small cracks can be sealed with cement plaster or sealant. For wide cracks, polyurethane foam can also be used.
Next, the hardened mass of foam is cut off and compared with the total surface.

Soil type "Concrete-contact"

Then, the ceiling is covered with a primer, which is intended specifically for concrete surfaces - “concrete-contact” shows itself well in this regard. This primer is designed to increase adhesion between materials, and will strengthen the adhesion of the insulation surfaces and the ceiling. Work on installing the heat insulator can only be carried out after the primer has completely dried.

Installing insulation using glue

For this method of insulation, a suitable material is made in the form of slabs and has a fairly high density - this is basalt wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

Can be used as glue special composition on cement based, polyurethane foam or “liquid nails”.

Cement-based adhesive is made according to the recipe given on the package. You should immediately pay attention to the drying time of the composition - this criterion will directly affect how much should be mixed. Do not mix too much quick-drying glue.
Next, using a trowel or spatula, the glue is applied pointwise to the insulation boards. You can also use a notched trowel - the tightness of the seal will only benefit from this.

Application of cement adhesive

If polyurethane foam is selected, it is applied to the surface of the insulation using a special gun.

Glue on polymer based is spent more economically

The next step is to press the insulating panel (slab) against the surface of the ceiling and hold it there for a few seconds.

Gluing the panel to the ceiling

Having secured one or two square meters insulation with glue, holes are drilled through the slabs in the ceiling for “fungi” fasteners. After this, the “fungi” are inserted into the hole, and a special plastic spacer nail is driven into them.

Additional fixation using mushroom dowels

If gaps form between the plates, they must also be filled with foam.

The gaps are filled with polyurethane foam

Mineral basalt wool is also installed in the same way.

Installation of mineral wool on glue is carried out in a similar manner

This is how the surface under a suspended ceiling is usually insulated. If one type of expanded polystyrene is used, it can be reinforced with sickle mesh and plastered.

Installation of insulation between the sheathing guides

Using lathing, insulation is installed if it is planned to further cover the ceiling with plasterboard or one of the types of lining (wooden, plastic, etc.).

The work is carried out in stages, in the following sequence:

The first step is to mark the ceiling using a laser or regular level, and straight lines are drawn along the marks, along which wooden or metal elements battens. For the installation of mineral wool, they must be located at a distance equal to the width of the insulation minus 30÷40 mm from each other, so that the panels (mats) stand apart between the two guides. If foam plastic is used for insulation, then the bars or profile should be installed at a distance equal to the width of the insulation boards.
The wooden frame is secured with dowels or self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood. Fastening elements are installed every 500÷600 mm.

First, a metal or wooden frame is mounted

Metal profiles are fixed to the ceiling using special direct hangers, which allow, if necessary, to lower the sheathing to the required distance from the ceiling. This gap must be completely filled with insulation.
The next step is laying the insulation. It is installed between wooden blocks at random.

Laying mineral wool panels

Mineral wool straightens out and holds well at the installation site, but it can also be additionally fixed with bent shelves of direct hangers.

Foam panels between frame rails

The foam must be installed carefully, otherwise, if the slab is small in thickness, it may break. If after installation there are gaps between the frame elements and the foam, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam.
The top of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is attached to a wooden frame using a stapler and staples, and to metal profiles using double-sided tape.

The insulation layer must be covered with a vapor barrier film

Having finished working with the vapor barrier membrane, the ceiling surface is sheathed plasterboard sheets or clapboard.

Finally, the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard or plasterboard

The drywall is attached to the guides using special self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 150÷170 mm.
The seams between sheets of plasterboard are reinforced with sickle mesh and finished with gypsum-based putty. In addition, all holes from the screw heads are coated with the composition. After the seams have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling must be puttied. Only after this can finishing material be applied.

Insulating the ceiling from the attic side

This is what an uninsulated attic floor usually looks like

All of the above materials are suitable for insulating the ceiling on the attic side, but the technology for laying them differs.

For example, insulation produced in mats, rolls and slabs is installed according to the same principle - they are tightly placed between the floor beams.
Ecowool and polyurethane foam are sprayed onto the surface, forming a continuous coating.
Sawdust and expanded clay are poured onto the prepared surface and distributed over it in even layers.

The base for the insulation is also prepared in different ways using modern materials or, in order to save money, using old methods.

Installation of insulation boards or mats

The insulation can be laid in one or several layers. There are several schemes for installing material on a hemmed or rolled ceiling.

In a false ceiling, sheathing made of boards, plywood or lining is fixed directly to the floor beams from the side of the rooms of the house, and the rolled ceiling flooring is laid on cranial bars fixed on the same floor beams.

In each of the above diagrams you can see that the space between the beams is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, but it is laid on the floor in different ways.

Insulation and vapor barrier schemes for attic floors

When installing a false ceiling, a vapor barrier membrane is covered on the side of the rooms and fixed with staples to the floor beams before the ceiling covering itself is mounted on them. In the diagram, this option is presented under the letter “c”.
If a rolled ceiling design is chosen (under the letter “a” in the diagram), then the vapor barrier is laid on boards or plywood secured to the skull blocks.

Installed vapor barrier membrane

When mineral wool in mats or rolls is used for thermal insulation, it is very important to lay them correctly. If the installation is carried out incorrectly, then the effect of insulation will not be at all or will be significantly reduced, so you need to take into account some points:

Typical mistakes when laying mineral wool

There should be no gaps left between the insulation mats and the floor beams, as they will become heat escape bridges.
The width of the insulation should not be much greater than the distance between the beams, otherwise it will bend, and heat will also escape into the atmosphere through the resulting cracks.
The thermal insulation material must fit tightly to the vapor barrier membrane and floor beams.
If you plan to lay two layers of insulation, and the space between the beams is completely filled with one, then the floor beams are built up. Bars of the required height are placed on top of them. The design of this insulation option is shown in the above diagram under the letter “g”.
When installing insulation under a “cold” roof, the insulation on top is covered with waterproofing material, which will protect the material from high humidity and cold air flows. The waterproofing sheets, like the vapor barrier membrane, are laid overlapping, and their joints are glued together with tape.
The next step is to place counter-battens 30÷40 mm high on top of the waterproofing on the floor beams; they will create a ventilation gap between the membrane and the wooden flooring of the attic floor.

Scheme of the insulating “pie” of the floor

The last step when insulating the ceiling from the attic side using this technology is to attach a flooring made of boards or plywood to the counter-battens.
When using foam plastic as insulation, the work is carried out according to the same principle. However, this material does not have the same flexibility as mineral wool, so gaps may form between the floor beams and the slabs, which must be filled with foam.

Spraying insulation material

Insulation using spraying is carried out with polyurethane foam and ecowool. This type of work requires special equipment, so the insulation process will not be cheap, but it will pay for itself in literally one to two years, since the effectiveness of these materials is quite high.

When using polyurethane foam, a vapor barrier membrane is not needed, since the material is moisture resistant, it perfectly fills large and small gaps between the flooring and floor beams. This insulation does not require covering with a waterproofing film, since polyurethane foam forms an airtight, seamless coating on the surface.

Floor insulated with polyurethane foam

Before applying ecowool, the vapor barrier film is laid in the same way as for mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The film is necessary because the material consists of small fibers that can penetrate through the cracks between the boards into living spaces.

Since dry cotton wool is mixed with the adhesive composition, it has good adhesion to the surface of the vapor barrier film. Ecowool forms a dense and at the same time porous seamless coating of the required thickness.

Filling the ecowool cavity between the rough and finished attic floor

There is another way to install this insulation. For example, the attic floor is covered with plank flooring, but the insulation was not carried out on time. In this case, the situation can be corrected by filling the space between the hemming or rolling flooring and the attic floor with ecowool. To do this, several floor boards are dismantled, and a pipe is lowered into this gap, through which ecowool will flow into this space. This procedure is carried out between all floor beams. In this case, dry material is used, without adhesive treatment.

Sometimes the space under the laid waterproofing film is also filled using a dry method. A cut is made in it, through which the cavities are filled with insulation, and after completion, the cuts are sealed with construction tape.

Blowing ecowool under the film

You can lay ecowool manually. It is poured onto a vapor barrier film and distributed between the floor beams. Having poured a layer of approximately 100 mm, it is carefully compacted or rolled with a special roller. Then the next layer of fibers is poured and compacted again. Thus, the insulation layer rises to the level of the height of the floor beams.

When using ecowool for insulation under a “cold” roof, waterproofing is also laid on top of the laid layer. The film is laid overlapping and must form an airtight coating so that the material does not absorb moisture from the cold air.

Insulation with bulk materials

Bulk materials include expanded clay, sawdust, pellets, vermiculite, etc. These insulation materials are similar in installation, only the filling of sawdust materials is slightly different.

Filling with expanded clay is not difficult. It crumbles and is distributed between the beams onto a pre-laid and secured vapor barrier film. The material does not require waterproofing, since it does not absorb moisture, however, it can be covered with a windproof membrane to completely block the exit of warm air from the rooms and prevent the penetration of cold air from the outside.

Expanded clay insulated floor

The expanded clay is covered on top with plywood or boards, which are attached to the floor beams or counter-battens. Sometimes they prefer not to cover the embankment with any coating - in this case, nothing will happen to the expanded clay due to its moisture resistance, but the insulation effect will still be reduced, especially if a coarse-grained material is chosen.

The surface for this insulation can be prepared in different ways.

The surface is prepared for insulation with sawdust

Laying glassine on the surface and securing it.
By sealing all the cracks with polyurethane foam, then cutting it off and laying regular corrugated cardboard, which itself is an insulator and allows all layers of insulation to “breathe.”
You can use old recipes and use clay mixed with lime to seal cracks. In this case, lime will act as a plasticizer and antiseptic, and clay will perfectly seal the space between the beams.
Sometimes a vapor barrier film is used for flooring.
In some cases, a waterproofing material - roofing felt - is also used.

Each of the options is acceptable, but some of them help you save a certain amount. For example, cardboard for decking can be obtained for free by using boxes from the store. Lime and clay are also inexpensive, but preparation using them will take more time.

Thermal insulation using this natural material occurs after careful preparation, otherwise the insulation will not last long time, since it absorbs moisture well, and when it dries out it becomes a fire hazard. Sawdust can be prepared in several ways, and their placement is almost the same, with a small but important difference.

In this case, the material is laid in its pure form, but after appropriate treatment with fire retardants and antiseptics. If the surface for the insulation has already been prepared, then mix it with protective equipment possible right on the spot. In this case, you should not pour out a large amount of material, since mixing it will be difficult. For processing, you can use a spray bottle - this way the product will be used much more economically.

Sawdust can simply be scattered and distributed between the floor beams

By laying the insulation in layers and processing each layer, it will be easier to compact it.

If sawdust is used in combination with shavings, then the first layer is laid, processed and compacted shavings; its layer should be about 100 mm.

Small sawdust is poured on top of it, which also needs to be processed and compacted - this process is best carried out using a hand roller.

The “disadvantage” of this option is that rodents will eventually take a liking to such layers, making burrows in them. Therefore, to avoid such proximity, sawdust is often mixed not only with the above-mentioned compounds, but also with lime, which mice cannot tolerate. To do this, take 5 parts of sawdust and 1 part of lime, that is, for five bags of sawdust, one bag of lime.

Treated and dried sawdust should be mixed with lime. The work is done using a shovel or a regular hoe.

The finished composition is laid out on the prepared surface and compacted. Waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then wooden flooring.

In this option, sawdust can be mixed with dry cement, clay or lime. The materials are taken in proportions of 10:1, that is, for ten bags of sawdust you will need one bag of one of the selected compositions.

Preparation of sawdust-cement mixture

All ingredients are mixed dry, then water is added to them in small portions, a homogeneous mixture is mixed, which should not release water when the lump is squeezed in a fist.

The finished mixture is laid on an attic floor previously prepared using a waterproofing film. For waterproofing, ordinary polyethylene film high density (thickness of at least 200 microns). The surface of the laid mixture is leveled with a rule, and floor beams serve as beacons to support the rule.

A mixture of sawdust and clay was chosen as insulation

The laid out mass is carefully compacted, and when it dries, a reliable sawdust-cement slab is obtained. You can immediately lay the attic floor on top of it.

It should be noted that sometimes gypsum is used in this composition instead of clay and cement, but it is not very convenient for this work, since it quickly sets and hardens, so you need to work very quickly, mixing the solution in small portions. This composition is prepared in proportions of 9:1, for one part of gypsum, take 9 parts of sawdust or shavings.

What material and installation option to choose for insulating the ceiling - each owner decides for himself, focusing on his physical and financial capabilities. Of course, it is best to choose the cleanest natural materials that will not cause allergic reactions in household members and will create a reliable barrier to the heat accumulated in the premises.

And one more note - to create truly good insulation, it is necessary to insulate not only the ceiling, but also the roof slopes. But this is a subject for a separate discussion.

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof - several options

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof to create a comfortable conditions accommodation? There are several technologies available.

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof sounds quite relevant, especially for cold regions of the country.

A large amount of heat escapes through the ceiling, forcing heating devices to work harder.

According to the laws of physics, warm air rises, and cold air, on the contrary, falls down from the ceiling. There is constant, natural cooling of the room. The roof (roof) is built over the ceiling. Its main task is to protect the house from precipitation and remove moisture when snow melts.

If no additional requirements are specified, then thermal insulation is not provided. Moreover, active ventilation is provided in the attic to prevent stagnation of humidified air, which contributes to rotting of the rafters and the formation of mold.

Thus, an uninsulated roof opens the way for heat flow from the living space. As a result significant heat losses occur. To warm up the house, you have to use additional coolant consumption. Cold ceiling- this is the surface on which moistened air and steam condense, which not only has a detrimental effect on the ceiling covering, but also increases the humidity in the room.

Ceiling insulation is aimed at achieving the following goals:

maintaining heat in the house and reducing coolant costs;
stabilization of the temperature in the room - preventing the penetration of cold in winter and maintaining coolness in the hot season;
optimizing humidity inside the house, eliminating condensation on the ceiling;
reduction in travel speed air masses and the risk of drafts.

Taking into account the problems that arise, we can make an unambiguous conclusion about the need for ceiling insulation. Such an event significantly increases the comfort of a private home. Most often it is carried out in country houses and dachas, where the roof is erected in an economical manner.

Roof types

Depending on the design and materials used, roofs can be of 2 types:

Warm type. When making such a roof, the slope is made in the form of a “layer cake”, in which, in addition to the outer covering of the roofing material, waterproofing and thermal insulation, and sometimes vapor barrier, are provided. In this case, the attic can be used as a living space, where normal temperature is ensured.
Cold roof. This design provides only protection from precipitation and does not have thermal insulation. Sami roofing materials have increased thermal conductivity values and cannot act as insulation. As a result, it is formed cold attic, used as a warehouse.

The type of roof is most often determined by economic considerations. For private houses in permanent residence looks better warm roof. Country and country houses with seasonal residence often have a second version of the roofing structure.

Specifics of a cold roof

A cold-type roof has its own characteristics and specifics. It has a simplified design, when only waterproofing and roofing are applied along the rafter sheathing. This makes it possible to make it easier and cheaper. A cold roof is a budget option for a private home.

The main specificity of this roof is the absence of thermal insulation on the slopes, but an air space is created under them, providing a kind of buffer zone. Air has a certain thermal resistance, which allows it to gradually cool the rising heat flow. As a result, an ice crust does not form on the inside of the roof.

The air space in the attic also reduces the effects of cold, but this is not enough to significantly reduce heat loss. The real way to retain heat inside the house is to insulate the ceiling.

The advantage of ceiling insulation

Insulation cold roof on the ceiling has a number of advantages compared to the construction of a warm roof:

Reduced financial costs, because the ceiling area is significant less area roof slopes.
Ease of installation and the possibility of using cheap materials, incl. bulk type.
Preserving the air buffer zone has a beneficial effect on the durability of the ceiling materials and rafter system.
Possibility of manufacturing in a house that has been in use for a long time, without dismantling the roofing elements.
Creating additional comfort: eliminating noise from falling rain and hail, as well as from wind; creating a thermos effect (keeping warm in winter and cool in summer).

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling area: from the inside, from the room side or outside, from the attic. The choice in favor of a cold roof depends on the purpose of the attic. If an attic is planned on its basis, then insulation will have to be done under roofing covering. This is the main disadvantage of ceiling insulation - the presence of a cold attic.

Features of external insulation

Ceiling insulation from the attic side is rightly considered the most effective way. In this case, there is a base on which thermal insulation can be laid without worrying about its fastening. Installation is very simple, due to the accessibility of the place where the material is laid. The thickness of the insulating layer is not limited either, because it does not in any way affect the height of the room in the house.

The main difficulty is that you cannot increase the load on the ceiling. Most often, in a private house it is made from wooden beams, on which plank flooring is laid, and the wood has limited mechanical strength. This condition dictates an important requirement for the insulation - in addition to low thermal conductivity, it must have low specific gravity.

External ceiling insulation can be provided by different materials. Particularly highlighted are bulk materials with low thermal conductivity. You can use folk remedies - straw, reeds, seaweed, etc. We should not forget about modern polymer thermal insulation. Table 1 shows the thermal conductivity values for some materials.

Table 1. Parameters of some available materials

Thermal insulation	Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/Km	Specific gravity, kg/m 3
Felt	0,033-0,052	-
Dry leaves	0,051-0,063	-
Tow	0,036-0,043	185
Moss	0,042	134
Needles	0,082	435
Compressed straw	0,051-0,065	-
cotton wool	0,035	82
Small chips	0,052-0,095	142-300
Bonfire	0,043-0,064	140-360
Peat	0,048-0,072	152
Sawdust	0,055-0,085	180-240

Insulation with bulk materials

Laying thermal insulation on the attic side makes it possible to use bulk materials. To do this, it is necessary to strengthen the ceiling covering, eliminate all cracks and lay waterproofing, and, if necessary, a vapor barrier. The most widely used materials are:

Expanded clay. It is made by firing clay after it has foamed. As a result, it has a thermal conductivity in the range of 0.1-0.12 W/Km and a specific gravity of 220-400 kg/m3. For insulation, it is well suited with grains of 5-9 mm in size.
Sawdust and wood shavings. These woodworking wastes are considered good thermal insulation when dry. The main task is to prevent them from getting wet. To insulate the ceiling, a layer of about 20-35 cm is required, depending on the region. To inside wood materials to prevent pests and small rodents from growing, quicklime should be added to the mass. The main disadvantage of sawdust is its flammability. For increase fire safety they should be impregnated with fire retardants, and a thin layer of ash or slag should be poured on top.

Loose insulation is usually laid in the spaces between floor beams. If their height is not enough, then you can grow them using wooden beam. Before backfilling, vapor and waterproofing is laid on the ceiling flooring.

The material is poured in layers with careful compaction. It is not recommended to lay film on top. Bulk insulation should be easily ventilated, which will prevent the formation of condensation in it.

Clay insulation

By its nature, clay is a good heat insulator. It has been used for roof insulation since ancient times. An important drawback is the heavy weight. In order to reduce it, the clay is transferred to a liquid state and straw or sawdust (shavings) is added.

The clay is applied in a layer 25-35 cm thick. After drying, it may crack. To eliminate this defect, it is recommended to pour a layer of sand 5-6 cm thick on top. Dry sand can also perform a thermal insulation function. When cracks appear in the clay, sand fills them, maintaining its insulating properties.

Insulation with reeds and straw

Dried plant stems (reeds, straw) were previously widely used to insulate the roofs of houses. Nowadays, such material seems unnecessarily antediluvian, but it also finds its admirers. Reeds are used in the form of mats, which can be made in several ways: stitching transversely or longitudinally located rows of stems, by stitching with wire staples or a continuous seam. They are laid in 2-3 layers with overlapping joints.

Straw is most often used in the form of compressed bales. They are laid in 2 layers. The total thickness of straw insulation is 30-40 cm. The main disadvantage is flammability. To eliminate it, impregnation with fire retardants is used.

Application of algae

For homes on the sea coast, algae can be an excellent ceiling insulation material. They are thoroughly dried and knitted into mats. This unusual material has the following necessary properties: low thermal conductivity, increased vapor permeability and reduced water absorption, non-flammability, resistance to harmful microorganisms. Many people are attracted by its medicinal properties - algae can saturate the air with iodine.

Prepared algae mats are laid similarly to reed elements. The total thickness of the thermal insulation is 30-35 cm. It is recommended to lay a boardwalk on top on which you can move.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool or cellulose wool is a fibrous material based on paper waste, i.e. cellulose. The composition may include natural binders and pigments that do not worsen important property– environmental cleanliness. The material can be applied to the ceiling manually or mechanically.

There are 2 technologies for applying ecowool insulation:

Wet method. The mixture is prepared in a liquid consistency with the possibility of applying it with a sprayer. Lignin is used as a binding component. The mass penetrates into all cracks and creates a monolithic coating, inside of which there are numerous air pores. Most often, a thickness of 20-26 cm is provided. In Siberian conditions, the thickness of thermal insulation increases to 45-50 cm.
Dry method. With this technology, dry raw materials are poured between the floor beams and compacted.

In addition to these methods, ecowool is sometimes applied in the form of a thick solution. For this purpose dry, ready mix diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. The mortar is poured between the beams in the same way as concrete.

Application of foam plastic

Foam plastic, i.e. Foamed polymer (most often expanded polystyrene) in the form of slabs (blocks) has been recognized for several decades as one of the most effective insulation materials. Its low specific gravity makes it possible to use it for arranging a ceiling. Limits the use of the risk of releasing substances harmful to humans, which become toxic when ignited. Taking this into account, it is recommended to use it only as external insulation.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is made of slabs 10-15 cm thick. They are laid between the floor beams close to each other. The joints should be sealed with foam.

Use of mineral wool

Mineral wool as ceiling insulation is no less in demand than polystyrene foam. This is facilitated by high thermal insulation capabilities and ease of installation. This fibrous material has one important drawback - hygroscopicity. Moreover, when moisture penetrates, the thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. This requires reliable vapor and waterproofing.

Among the fibrous (cotton) insulation materials, the following materials stand out:

Mineral wool. It is based on silicon fibers.
Basalt wool, made from basalt rocks. It is highly durable.
Slag. The raw material for its production is blast furnace slag. Its main advantage is low cost. When in contact with water, it can release harmful substances and is therefore not recommended for indoor use.

Among the numerous representatives of cotton insulation, UPSA (URSA) especially stands out. This is a high-quality material, sold in rolls and slabs. The most common is the roll version, which is quickly and easily installed on the ceiling. The strips are laid between the beams with overlap and overlap on the beams in several layers. The total thickness is 10-22 cm.

Foam insulation

Currently, modern ceiling insulation technology - foam - is increasingly being used. Polyurethane foam is used for these purposes. It is delivered in two-component liquid form. Using a special device, the mixture is supplied under pressure to the ceiling surface.

As a result, polymerization of the material and a chemical reaction occurs, releasing a large amount of gas. The surface of the ceiling is covered with a uniform layer of polymer foam.

After polyurethane foam hardens, reliable thermal insulation is provided. The material has excellent water resistance, which eliminates the need to install vapor and waterproofing. An important advantage of the technology is that the polymer fills all, even hard-to-reach, places on the ceiling, which eliminates the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. Minus - high price.

How to properly insulate from the inside?

In some cases, it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. For example, it is very difficult to hold such an event at a low height, i.e. low slopes of roof slopes. This circumstance dictates the need for thermal insulation of the ceiling on the room side. The problem arises of fixing the material to the ceiling.

In addition, the thickness is limited so as not to lower the ceiling excessively, and the requirements for harmlessness to humans are also increased. For insulation from the inside, modern materials that meet the specified requirements are usually used.

Penoplex insulation

For internal insulation, extruded penoplex is often used. It is available in rolls and in the form of slabs. Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the following order:

A lathing made of wooden beams 4-5 cm high is fixed to the ceiling surface. The installation step of the beams is 50-70 cm, depending on the width of the plastic.
Penoplex is laid in the cells of the sheathing, which is fixed to the ceiling with glue. The thickness of the insulation is 3-4 cm. Penoplex should not reach the edge of the beam by 10-15 mm to form a ventilation gap.
Sheathing with plasterboard or other sheet material.

When laying insulation there should be no gaps. All of them must be carefully filled with polyurethane foam or other sealing compounds. You can use a putty mixture.

Penofol thermal insulation

Another popular insulation material is penofol. It is a rolled material based on polyethylene foam, the surface of which is coated with aluminum foil. Penofol is somewhat inferior to penoplex in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, but the presence of foil allows it to be used additionally as a vapor barrier.

Application to the ceiling from the inside is carried out similarly to the previous case. In this case, the foil surface should be directed towards the room. In areas with cold climates, a combination of penofol and penoplex is often used.

Insulation with plaster

In order for ordinary cement-sand plaster to act as thermal insulation, a layer of several tens of centimeters is required. The practical possibility of insulation with plaster is provided by the use of mixtures with special additives.

In particular, the heat-insulating mixture Akterm is recommended. Such plaster with a thickness of 1 cm is comparable to the characteristics of foam plastic with a thickness of 3-4 cm. The prevalence of plaster insulation is limited by the scarcity and high cost of the material.

Cork insulation

Cork can be considered one of the most effective ceiling insulation materials. Its low specific gravity and low thermal conductivity creates unique properties. Roll insulation in the form of a white agglomerate made of cork wood, it is fixed in the cells of the lathing.

Most often this material is used when installing suspended structures (Armstrong type).

How to find out the required thickness of ceiling insulation?

The effectiveness of thermal insulation, as well as the load on the ceiling structure, depends on the correct determination of this parameter. The thickness is determined based on the required thermal protection and permissible weight.

The thickness, based on thermal insulation requirements, is assessed taking into account the standards for thermal resistance and thermal conductivity of the insulation. The first parameter is set for different regions, taking into account climatic conditions.

For example, for the Middle Volga region the resistance is 4 m 2 K/W. If you use polyurethane foam with a thermal conductivity of 0.025 W/mK, then it is enough to multiply these indicators to obtain a sufficient thermal insulation thickness of 0.1 m.

For evaluation calculations, you can take into account the following value of the thermal conductivity coefficient (in W/mK):

mineral wool – 0.037-0.049;
foam plastics (expanded polystyrene) – 0.031-0.037;
polyurethane foam – 0.025-0.027;
expanded clay – 0.112;
ecowool – 0.035-0.043.

The weighting of the ceiling as a result of insulation is determined based on the density of the materials. Foamed polymers and ecowool, having a density in the range of 25-80 kg/m 3, are considered the lightest. One of the heaviest is expanded clay (180-350 kg/m3).

Insulation of the ceiling in the presence of a cold roof in a private house is important requirement for efficient and comfortable operation. It will keep the room warm and reduce heating costs. When installing thermal insulation with your own hands, it is important to choose the right insulation from the huge range of materials offered. You can do it using traditional methods, or you can use modern insulation materials.

From the author: Hello, dear reader. If you are reading this, I assume that you have a private house, and you have decided to insulate the ceiling on the cold attic side with your own hands. If so, then further information is what you need to properly insulate the ceiling of your home.

What you need to know before starting work

Where to start?.. The topic is quite extensive, and work related to insulation requires, if not professional, then at least basic knowledge about the materials available on the market, their properties and methods of their use.

If you do the work without having this knowledge, you can, at best, waste time, effort and money, so to speak, in the wind, which is what makes it cold, and at worst, provoke a fire due to neglect of fire safety rules and improper installation of insulation material. Yes, insulation is needed to keep warm, but a fire is clearly too much in every sense.

Now we will look at the most popular materials, and also find out how to create a cold attic using common types of insulation. We'll find out what the advantages and possibly disadvantages of each are.

Insulation using foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is one of the most popular materials for insulation. It is lightweight and easy to cut even with a regular cardboard cutter. In a word, working with polystyrene foam is convenient, fast, pleasant and, in principle, not difficult. The main thing is to take the correct measurements and not cut off too much from a whole sheet. But even if you overdo it, there is nothing fundamentally terrible about it: this place can be easily filled with polyurethane foam. Let's present the advantages of polystyrene foam in the form of a short list:

it is easy to cut;
easy to transport to the top;
it is not afraid of moisture and is not sensitive to temperature;
it is not suitable for consumption by insects and rodents;
if the foam is laid correctly - on a dry base treated with an antiseptic, the likelihood of fungal formations (mold) appearing is minimized;
the material has a relatively low cost.

The list can be continued, but I think this is quite enough. We have listed the main positive aspects of the material.

But foam plastic can also be different. Yes, there are different manufacturing companies, but that’s not about that now. The fact is that the sheets are produced in different parameters. Us in in this case I'm interested in the thickness.

For insulation of residential premises, sheets with a thickness of 5–7 cm are usually used, and their density, as a rule, is 15 kg/m³. Of course, the higher the density, the higher the material’s thermal insulation ability. You can, of course, choose 25 kg/m³, you can lay the sheets in two layers - this is not forbidden.

But, nevertheless, there is a recommendation: if you are going to install an attic floor made of hard material (for example, fiberboard/OSB boards), then it is enough to choose polystyrene foam with a density of 15 kg/m³. If installation of a hard surface is not planned, for better thermal insulation It is worth choosing sheets with a density of 25 kg/m³.

In general, if there is such a possibility, then a hard floor should be installed in any case. This will allow you to store various things in the attic or even turn it into additional living space, if, of course, it is properly equipped.

But if there is no hard surface above the sheets, then walking on them often, much less moving objects, is not advisable. Simply, they are not designed for this, no matter what density indicator they have.

Insulation from a wooden or brick attic is not fundamentally different: in both cases, the process consists of simply laying polystyrene foam on the floor of the attic. More specifically, the following work needs to be done:

check the entire wooden structure for rot. If you find a rotten area, it must be cut out and replaced with a new piece of wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic. In general, it would be useful to process antiseptic all elements of a wooden structure. Even if these measures were taken during the construction of the house, prevention will never be superfluous. Moreover, in matters related to construction;
clear the attic floor of debris (including small ones) - the base must be clean;
do necessary measurements, make calculations;
cut foam sheets according to calculations;

lay polystyrene on the surface. Be prepared for the fact that this material will cost more than the foam itself, but it is quite justified. In essence, there is alternative options, and in some cases they do without it at all;
lay the prepared ones;
fill the gaps between the sheets with polyurethane foam. Distance between sheets and load-bearing structures also needs to be foamed.

Here's a simple way to insulate your home from the attic with polystyrene foam. Now we move on to another, no less popular and effective insulation - mineral wool.

Insulation with mineral wool

Insulation with mineral wool is another, no less popular method. Mineral wool is widely used for insulation of apartments, houses, balconies, loggias. Moreover, both ceilings and facades. The range of its applications is no less wide than that of polystyrene foam.

Just like polystyrene foam, mineral wool has its own advantages:

relatively low cost;
it is unsuitable for rodents and insects;
it is quite easy to work with;
the material is considered to be highly flammable.

But, among other things, mineral wool also has its own characteristic disadvantages, associated, for the most part, with its structure, with the nature of the material itself:

when wet it loses its valuable qualities. Of course, if a few drops of water get on it, nothing bad will happen, but if your roof leaks with enviable regularity, dampness will accumulate in the wool - then it will not only cease to perform its functions, the main of which is heat preservation, but also with Over time it will become a place of residence for fungal formations. But growing such “mushrooms” in the attic is unlikely to be part of your plans;
cotton wool cannot be pressed for the same reasons. No, this won’t cause mold to grow in it, but its effectiveness will decrease by about 30–40%, depending on how hard you try;
People with diseases of the respiratory system (for example, asthma) should not look at mineral wool at all. But if you happen to work with it, then you need to use personal protective equipment - of course, not a gas mask, but at least a gauze bandage.

I would not say that the disadvantages of mineral wool are significant, so as not to consider it as possible option. I repeat, mineral wool is an affordable, reliable and widespread insulation material. The main thing is to take precautions and not violate the operating rules.

As for the thickness, then, again, the thicker the layer, the warmer the room will be. Taking into account natural conditions, a layer of mineral wool from 15 cm to 30 cm or more is usually laid in attics.

Another important point: if you use several types of insulation (yes, this is also possible), then the bottom layer should be the least vapor-permeable. In other words, it is possible to lay mineral wool on polystyrene foam, but it is impossible to lay polystyrene foam on mineral wool. If there is a need for sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool with a density of 40 kg/m³.

Here we come to the essence of this section. Let's get started:

Be sure (!) to check the boards for rot. Outwardly, they may look intact, but if you hear a dull sound when you hit it with a hammer, it is most likely rotten inside. It should be replaced with a new fragment treated with an antiseptic. In general, the preparation is the same as when using polystyrene foam;
checking the roof. If it leaks even a little, the mineral wool will not forgive you for it. Therefore, be sure to fix the leak;
checking communications. Although mineral wool is a highly flammable material, it is still worth being safe;
clean the surface of debris;
we build a wooden frame;
laying down vapor barrier material. Just in case, I will say that vapor barrier cannot be laid on both sides. If you suddenly want to spread it on top, resist this destructive desire. The condensate will have nowhere to evaporate, and then the mineral wool will begin to slowly but surely melt;

we roll out the rolls between the beams (or lay the tiles);
install a wooden base;
We enjoy the work done.

You can do without installing a hard floor. This is not necessary, but, again, you will not be able to walk on the surface or place anything on it (remember that the cotton wool cannot be pressed).

We have already looked at two popular methods of insulating a house with a cold attic. Now let's look at other options. I’ll say right away that they are more labor-intensive, but at the same time, more economical from a financial point of view. One of these methods is the use of expanded clay.

Insulation using expanded clay

Expanded clay is a material that is obtained by firing low-melting clays. The resulting gravel has the shape of oval pellets, and the color is somewhere between brown and orange. The bulk density of expanded clay also varies - from 350 to 600 kg/m³ or more. Now this is not so important for us.

Let's consider the characteristic advantages and disadvantages of expanded clay. So, the advantages:

low price (as a rule, it costs several times less than mineral wool or polystyrene foam);
fire resistance - expanded clay does not burn at all;
high ability for sound insulation - if this is, of course, relevant;
Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material: it does not emit any fumes into the air.

It would seem ideal. Yes, indeed, this is an excellent option for insulating a private home. There is only one specific detail: it is a porous material - and by absorbing moisture, its weight increases, and its thermal insulation qualities decrease. If the roof of your house is leaking (even just a little), the first thing you should do before starting work is to repair the roof. Moisture, as we have already found out, is harmful not only for expanded clay, but also for mineral wool and other alternatives.

Keep in mind that expanded clay is quite heavy - it is not foam or cotton wool. Therefore, before pouring it out, make sure that the attic floor/ceiling of the room below is secure. If the boards are hemmed from below to the beams, there is a possibility that the former will not withstand the pressure and will come off the beams. Then the expanded clay will be right in the room.