Build a stove for your home with your own hands. DIY brick ovens: secrets of the craft

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal stoves and boilers, which is updated with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of stoves and the technology for constructing a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant smell). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to him, relative humidity heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When working with any other heating device, not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel heaters do not have this drawback. long burning(full-fledged, and not so-called gas-generating furnaces, which only imitate gas generation). But they are very expensive, they have complex design and need electricity, which a brick kiln can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram in various ovens may change. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

Very good option heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven, you can install a heat exchanger on the side to heat the water that will be stored in storage tank on the roof of the stove;
• Gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture and require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of ours become available for preparation national cuisine, which cannot be cooked except in a Russian oven.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the intersection area attic floor and roofing is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof chimney has another widening - otter (position 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, and besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called under combustion part(indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of higher quality (brand - M150) and withstands more high temperatures- up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick cannot be used in this case.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be laid out stove brick at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks, laid on a regular cement-sand mortar.
2. Cement-sand High Quality: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let’s analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

Besides standard set tools for masonry work, which include:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires great experience, but exists simplified version, proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• at severe frosts when the stove is heated particularly intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to accomplish exact calculation manually - just count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate a stove in one of the ovens designed for this purpose. computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, when open window, you can cook on it quite comfortably.

IN big house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped ones). Wherein minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation strips is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a foundation made of wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then put a sheet roofing iron;
• All that remains is to lay the last layer - soaked in highly diluted masonry mortar basalt cardboard or felt.

Laying can only begin after upper layer will dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given maximum thickness(5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying out of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter only increases outer size chimney, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic brick you need to moisten it by dipping it in a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since they can be laid with a trowel. thin layer 3 mm thick is not easy. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in pure heating stoves). Slab onto the solution due to the significant difference in thermal expansion It cannot be laid between cast iron and clay - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Damp firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, a large amount of acidic condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. Optimal mode combustion is characterized yellow fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever version of the brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

As a rule, small brick kilns are installed. You can easily make such stoves yourself, having first studied the technology of laying stoves.

Choosing a brick oven for your home

First you need to decide on the specific type of oven. And for this, study in detail existing types ovens and choose the most suitable option for yourself:

1. Dutch channel ovens They are small in size and quite simple to construct. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These ovens operate in slow burning mode.
2. Swedish chamber-channel brick kiln has a higher efficiency compared to Dutch ones. dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complex in execution. Besides this, everything Construction Materials for this furnace it is necessary to select more carefully.
3. Russian stove has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a stove is very complex, and you are unlikely to be able to do it without the help of professionals.
4. Brick heating and cooking stove- a more common and simpler heating option. This stove requires a small amount of building materials, and you can make a simple design yourself.

If this is your first time building a stove, then choose a Dutch oven or a brick kiln for self-construction, because building Swedish stoves is more difficult and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not undertake its construction yourself.

The next step is to determine what size your stove will be and how many rooms it will heat. IN small house the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.

The main condition for the placement and construction of the furnace is very simple: direct heating from the walls of the furnace should cover a large number of rooms.

If this is not possible, it is better to use stoves with built-in water heating coils. With this type of stove, the remaining rooms will be heated with special ones.

Brick for laying the furnace

For an extended service life and proper operation of the stove, it is necessary to carefully select building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties, which provide warmth in your home, also depend on your choice.

For a Swedish stove it is very important to choose high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove the quality requirements are not so high.

Heating brick stoves used to be made of red brick, but today we can distinguish 2 main types:

• red ceramic brick, grade 150;
• Fireclay fire-resistant brick.

• The bricks must be the same size;
• Usage hollow bricks or silicate is strictly prohibited. A solid ceramic brick is required;
• For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
• For the combustion chamber, choose refractory fireclay bricks.

Instructions and drawing for ordering brick kilns

Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides of masonry bricks have their own name, and the type of masonry is determined by them. The most common masonry of brick kilns is the butt and spoon masonry. Those. from the front side of a brick wall we can only see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because... It is not used for bricklaying stoves. When laying, the vertical seams between the bricks should not coincide.

Brickwork ovens start from the first row, constantly checking according to the diagram where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad help, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, checking the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire installation is correct, apply the mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

The thickness of the seam should be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, so it is better to remove excess clay immediately. In some cases, the thickness of the seam is exactly 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately on Right place, its further moving and tapping is unacceptable.

Extra clay mixture Once removed from bricks, they cannot be reused.

Below are instructions for laying:

Laying a brick stove for your home with your own hands will require a lot of free time. Each brick has its own important meaning. If you approach the issue efficiently and responsibly, the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.

How to make a brick stove with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step-by-step descriptions, useful tips.

Classification by intended use

1. Heating. Such stoves are used only for heating a room as a sole or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
2. Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used to warm up the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on design

Straight-through.

The operating principle of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the ash pan, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Disadvantages of once-through furnaces:

• Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air also leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

• Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which retains heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Duct.

This type of furnace is an improved direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms the room. When installing channel furnaces, the linear dependence of the coefficient should be taken into account useful action on the length and number of channels.

Bell bells.

Such stoves serve to retain heat in a room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. As the air currents cool down, they become heavier and fall down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it comes out through the undercoat.

Advantages of bell furnaces:

• They ensure uniform heating of the room due to their design.
• Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification depending on material

Brick

Pros:

• Autonomy. That is, having “refueled” the stove once, you don’t have to worry about it for a long time.
• Heat retention. Brick structures conduct heat poorly, so it remains in them for a long time.

Minuses:

• They take a long time to warm up.

Cast iron

Pros:

• Easy to install and does not require a foundation.
• Not fire hazardous.
• Compact.
• Heats up quickly.
• Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
• No additional lining required.
• There are automatic cast iron stoves, which independently regulate the temperature.
• High efficiency.
• Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
• Low price.

Minuses:

• They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's look at the preparation:

• Foundation. If the stove is designed to be large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, this is not necessary.
• Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
• Chimney. Under no circumstances should the chimney be adjacent to the ceiling beams. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
• Pipe. The projection of the pipe must be half a meter higher than the roof, but no more than one and a half meters.
• Furnace location. The location should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be located above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

• It is better to position the stove so that it heats as much as possible more premises. For example, if the house has several neighboring rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them, so that it heats everything.
• If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not right next to it.

Tools and materials

Materials:

• Clay (for making masonry mortar).
• Sand.
• Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
• Pipe.
• Gravel.
• Tree.
• Cement.
• Ruberoid.
• Grate grate.
• Angle steel.
• Roofing steel.
• Wire.
• Nails.
• Steam valve.
• Oven.
• Doors (for the cooking chamber, ash chamber, combustion chamber).
• Cast iron tiles.

Tools:

• Furnace hammer.
• Ruler.
• Master OK.
• Pick.
• Square.
• Plumb.
• Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

• Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
• It keeps warm for a very long time, in some cases – two days.
• The firebox surrounds the fire on all sides and reduces the level of fire hazard of the structure.

Minuses:

• Big size.
• It weighs a lot.
• Long warm-up time.
• After the break, daily heating is required.
• Has the most complex design of all possible types ovens.

A Russian stove is suitable as a constant source of heat, will completely replace and even surpass a stove, and can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation must be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

• Simple masonry
• It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
• Heats up quickly.
• Weighs relatively little.
• Allows cooking.
• No need to heat regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

• Cools down quickly.
• Low efficiency.

It turns out that a Dutch oven is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and irregular use.

Regular rectangular.

Pros:

• Doesn't take up much space.
• Simple design.
• Low prices for materials and fuel.

Minuses:

• Average efficiency.
• Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A regular rectangular stove is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The stove is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

• Allows cooking.
• High efficiency.
• Fast heating.
• “Saves” fuel.
• Relatively small in size.
• Exist modern options with oven, hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

• Acceleration firing is required.
• It has complex masonry for a beginner.

A Swedish stove is suitable as the main source of heat in a room, can completely replace a stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

• Very low fire hazard.
• Aesthetic.
• High efficiency.
• Heats the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for home decoration and for intended use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? First, let's draw up the drawings. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the furnace.

• Foundation.
• Frame.
• Chimney.

The oven consists of the following levels:

1. Foundation
2. Rubble masonry.
3. Bookmark depth.
4. Waterproofing.
5. Furnace array.

Array composition:

• Six.
• Undercoat.
• Sub-bake.
• Dushnik.
• Overlap.
• Valve.
• Half door.

Pipe composition:

• Overlap.
• Cutting.
• Insulation.
• Otter.
• Header.
• Metal cap.
• Pipe riser.
• A metal sheet.
• Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed diagram of the laying of a brick stove.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's look at how to do this using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

1. Designed for waterproofing foundations. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. During laying, use cement-sand mortar.
2. The second row represents the bases for the walls of the care area.
3. The third row is the walls of the guardhouse (3/4 brick).
4. The fourth row is the support support.
5. The fifth row is located in the corners to create support for the arch. Also use this row to lay out the baked goods.
6. The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary arch for the guardianship.
7. The row for the vault begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The center brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be placed as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
8. The walls of the mantle consist of bricks from this row.
9. The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
10. The final row for guardianship. Fill the gaps between the bricks with sand for insulation.
11. Strengthening the roof of the guardhouse with the addition of beveled bricks.
12. The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shetsk masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
13. The bricks of this row will become the hearth and cooking chamber. Additional installation mouth arcs.
14. Walls of the hearth and furnace.
15. Walls of the hearth and furnace.
16. Walls of the hearth and furnace.
17. Fold down the supports for the roof of the cooking chamber.
18. It is made of refractory bricks with a vault.
19. Pole walls.
20. Pole walls. Fill the gaps with sand.
21. Laying the furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
22. End of the ceiling. Installation of a choke.
23. Samovar canals and over-pipe.
24. Same channels.
25. Additional channel for views.
26. Same channels.
27. Half door installation.
28. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
29. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
30. Connection of pipe and vent.
31. Installation of the valve.
32. Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a stove with your own hands: description of the process.

1. Lay the foundation of.
2. Place the first row (along the cord).
3. Place the next rows using a level.
4. Control corners using body kits.
5. From rows 1 to 11 use cement-sand mortar, then clay-sand mortar.
6. The pipe is removed at the end of all work.

How to build a stove with your own hands from brick video:

• Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
• Choose a drawing that suits your needs.
• Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is a traditional Russian one).
• Be careful when transporting fire bricks as they are very fragile.
• The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the areas that need to be thoroughly heated.
• Don't forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

Laying any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!

IN small houses, where the use of modern heating systems, it is possible to use a conventional wood-burning stove for heating rooms. At the same time, not every owner knows how to build a stove in the house. Wood stoves have the following advantages:

• quite small in size;
• high level work efficiency;
• convenience and ease of maintenance;
• inexpensive type of fuel.

System characteristics

IN Lately High-quality stove heating equipped with a boiler with a water circuit has become widespread. Its main advantage is to increase the efficiency stove heating, due to which the heat is evenly distributed throughout the entire area of ​​the house.

It should be noted that a furnace equipped with a water boiler will be more efficient compared to solid fuel boiler, because it can heat rooms in the house faster.

The design and placement of stoves in the house directly depends on their type and type.

Today there are the following classifications of furnaces:

• by purpose - divided into heating and cooking devices and stove devices with a shield;
• by type of fuel used - wood, gas, combined fuel and coal;
• in shape - square, round, rectangular, L- or T-shaped, triangular and others;
• by type of chimney - vertical, horizontal, sequential and combined stoves;
• according to the period of fuel combustion - prolonged, long and short-term combustion.

After determining the type of furnace, you can begin placing heating structure. A location near an interior wall will affect the air flow from the windows to the exit, which will cause cold air to move near the floor surface.

When installing the stove near outer wall Air flows are normalized, but the room is significantly darkened. Best return there will be heat when placing the stove in the middle of the room, which in turn does not look entirely aesthetically pleasing.

The most rational option would be to place the heating stove in the house on the border of the living room and kitchen.

Work process tools

You will need:

• trowel;
• construction hammer;
• bucket;
• roulette;
• level;
• putty knife.

In addition, there are other tools that may be needed when installing a particular structure.

Stages of work on the device

To install a heating stove in a house, you need to complete the following steps.

Foundation structure

Indoor heating stoves weighing up to 750 kg are usually installed directly on a durable floor covering. If the floor strength is insufficient, they are reinforced with additional beams, strengthened with brick columns.

Indoor stoves weighing more than 750 kg must be placed on specialized foundations, which must rest on a solid foundation of the soil.

These types of durable soils usually include rocky soils, which are solid rocks of limestone, sandstone or granite. The main property of such soils is a high level of resistance to groundwater and frost.

Macroporous soils that contain clay and have a coarse-porous structure are considered unsuitable substrates for placing stoves in a house. These soils lose their strength when exposed to moisture.

1. The lower level of the foundation area that will rest on the ground is called the base of the foundation. It is usually buried in the ground by 0.5-0.6 m (for single-story stoves), 0.75 m (for stoves with mounted pipes) and 1 m (for two-story stoves).
2. The building materials for making the foundation of the furnaces are various types of rubble stone, ordinary brick ( the best option there will be iron ore) and concrete.
3. When the soil is dry, the foundation is laid using bricks and limestone mortar, and when the soil is wet, cement mortar is used.
4. Brickwork is done in horizontal rows with mandatory bandaging of the seams. Massive stones are placed on the bottom layer, and smaller ones are placed in the upper rows. The empty spaces between the stones are densely filled with crushed stone. The foundation masonry should not be connected with the masonry of the house wall.

Furnace laying and exterior finishing

To obtain high strength of the masonry, it is necessary to bind the bricks together. In addition, bandaging brick seams helps maintain gas density in the kiln.

Laying the firebox and chimney (the most important parts of the stove) should be done only using hands to be able to feel for excess impurities and objects in the solution (stones or lumps) that must be removed. Laying with a trowel is allowed in places with greater thickness (the base of the stove).

Basic work rules

In order to correctly fold the first rows in the furnace masonry, it is necessary to observe the parallelism rule, which is checked using a square and string by measuring the opposite distances between the main corners. The masonry is considered to have the correct shape if these distances are equal to each other.

1. The chimney and firebox are laid out with preliminary selection and layout of each row dry. The only exceptions can be solid brick rows without a chimney (from the base of the foundation to the bottom of the smoke channels).
2. The firebox is made of refractory bricks using. When burning a stove with wood, the firebox is made of ordinary brick. The inner part of the firebox is not tied up with the general masonry of the outer walls due to the difference in temperature of these surfaces when the furnace is fired.
3. Before laying, ordinary types of red brick are wetted and immersed in water for several minutes. The refractory brick is only rinsed with water to remove dust to improve the bond between the brick and the mortar.
4. When laying, the inner surface of the firebox is thoroughly wiped, and excess solution is removed. The thickness of the seams should be no more than 5 mm (for ordinary bricks) and 2-3 mm (for refractory bricks).

Installation and fastening of furnace appliances

The stove appliances are installed into the overall structure as the masonry progresses. The main stove appliances include:

• combustion doors;
• smoke dampers;
• grates.

When installing these devices, the thermal expansion of metal and brickwork must be taken into account.

1. To do this, a gap of 5 mm is left between the devices and the main masonry.
2. The frame of the device is secured with special metal claws, which are fastened into the masonry and clamped with brick and mortar.
3. The firebox opening is blocked with brick into a lock or.
4. The grate is placed in a special hole on the floor of the firebox with 5 mm gaps and is located below the level of the firebox opening by 1-2 rows of bricks laid flat.
5. The blower door is installed without gaps.
6. Traction and pipe closing devices are fixed closer to the smoke riser in order to reduce the length of the chimney.

Chimney and chimneys

The chimney, according to its structure and location, is divided into root, wall and mounted.

1. The wall chimney looks like a vertical riser inside the capital brick walls. This chimney is located in interior walls Houses. It is also possible to use a common chimney for two stoves on the same floor.
2. Root pipes (or chimney) are used in wooden buildings where there are no wall channels.
3. Mounted structures (chimney) are installed directly on the stove on reinforced concrete slab, laid on the ceiling.

Deflectors and weather vanes made of steel and cast iron are used as windproof devices capable of controlling draft in systems (the chimney itself).

Finishing of external surfaces

As a rule, the outside of stoves is finished and lined with plaster, steel cases or tiles.

Plaster is the cheapest, but unreliable method, due to the fact that it is susceptible to cracking.

Various types of roofing and sheet steel are used for cladding with cases. However, quite often their surface is deformed, and subsequently dents form. Therefore, it is better to use corrugated steel for cladding.

The most aesthetic and hygienic finish for the stove surface is tile cladding. Tiles are capable of creating a reliable gas density of the structure. But at the same time, this is the most labor-intensive and quite expensive type of finishing.

Considering that there are different stoves, you should choose an option that suits both the home and the owners. However, for a good owner, after he has studied the features of the arrangement and laying of brick stove structures, such work will not present any difficulties.

Brick kilns for the home - this is often the only way to arrange heating at home, in a country house or in a cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency value reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include “heat consumers”, which take up a lot of thermal energy.

• Brick stoves for home

Brick heating stoves are quite simple to manufacture and operate. The reason for these qualities is the narrow scope of application - for heating rooms (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).

Brick stoves for the home are also sometimes called “Dutch stoves”.

Brick stoves for home

In houses and dachas, the most often used are “Dutch” ones, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves one to two times a day, you can easily ensure comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating stoves, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

• in small Dutch ovens, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the bell-type smoke channels are located at the top;
• for furnaces big size apply combined system smoke circulation, in which the smoke channels are located on the sides of the firebox and on top of it.

Dutch oven for corner type home

Another type of heating stoves is the “Dutch” corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these ovens are characterized by the fact that they occupy less space, which allows you to significantly increase usable area premises by installing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick kilns are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To warm 2 storey house or cottage, use two-tier brick heating stoves. An autonomous stove with its own firebox is installed on each floor.

Modern heating stoves include a grate. With this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place where wood is burned, in the volumes necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that fuel combustion occurs at an intensive rate and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems make it possible to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove flue circuit before being cooled by excess air.

The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on combustion, and also improve efficiency.

A diagram for laying a stove for a home is the first thing that a person who decides to install heating in his home using a stove will need. In this material we will look at what layout schemes for home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.

Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

• 1. undercut;
• 2. with empty seams;

When arranging a stove using the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all seams are filled with mortar. The thickness of the kiln walls determines the way in which the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick and half a brick. Sometimes you can find a masonry of 3.4 bricks.
For work on the installation of a stove, it is imperative to use stove bricks. It is also called “red brick”, solid. Under no circumstances should you use bricks that have been taken from a dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.

The first row is laid simply with bricks, without using mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall and the places where all the doors will be located are determined. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are completed, the bricks are laid with mortar.

After this, they begin to lay the corners. Next stage, according to the advice of experts, this is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, string is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate while working.

Considering the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which the following will be located: the ash pan, the combustion chamber, and the ash pan. The door under the ash pit is installed when the third row of bricks is laid, and after one row the ash pit is laid out.

After this, the firebox is arranged. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure good connection bricks between each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.

To line the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Because the facing brick and masonry bricks have different temperature characteristics, then the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be done rigidly. When installing a chimney pipe, care should be taken to install a special valve, the adjustment of which should be smooth and easy.

Brick stoves for the home - video instructions

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