Often homeowners decide to do... One of the main purposes of the blind area is to drain water away from the house. In fact, a blind area one meter wide cannot fully cope with the task. Water will still accumulate at the edge of the blind area and seep into the foundation, threatening to begin to destroy it over time. And if the house has a basement or cellar, the accumulation of moisture can lead to the formation of mold and mildew.
One of the options for guaranteed drainage of water from the house is to increase the width of the blind area to 3-4 m, which is rarely found in practice. Therefore, to solve this problem it is worth resorting to installing a drainage system.
Drainage around the blind area of the house
Drainage around the blind area of a house schematic illustration of drainage around the blind area of a house
As it becomes clear, it is a mistake to assume that drainage is required solely for the purpose of ensuring dryness in the basement or cellar, to eliminate puddles and slush along the house during the spring melting of snow or heavy rains.
Properly done drainage can ensure a long life of the house and prevent damage to the blind area and the foundation of the house.
How to properly make drainage and blind area around the house
There are a number of subtleties that you need to know when installing a drainage system and building a blind area.
They begin to build a blind area around the house only after the final construction of the house. The blind area is made of asphalt, brick, concrete, and is laid along the entire perimeter of the house. In this case, the path is built at an angle so that the water naturally flows away from the house.
However, this is not enough to ensure that moisture is properly removed from the house. Since the blind area is laid on open ground and is often not hidden under the roof of the house, there is a high probability that the path will crack and collapse from swelling of the soil, especially during periods of frost, winter cold and during the spring melting of snow.
That is why, in addition to the blind area, it is necessary to do additional drainage.
Types of drainage systems
Depending on the specific situation, the homeowner or builder determines the choice of drainage system. There are several types:
- Internal foundation drainage;
- External foundation drainage;
- Blind area drainage;
- Underground drainage system of the entire site.
As a rule, the choice is made in favor of draining the foundation, since this is a more common method. However, with the advent of new technologies and materials, attention is increasingly paid to the drainage of the blind area. Moreover, both options can be implemented in combination with drainage of the entire area, if necessary.
In what cases is drainage necessary?
The decision to install drainage is relevant for cases when:
- The plot and house are located in the low part of the plot;
- Groundwater flows close to the surface;
- The soil on the site contains predominantly clay;
- The base of the foundation is below the soil freezing level;
- The blind area is made of broken bricks, stones or pieces of tiles.
If the site has dry soils, the house is built on a hill and is equipped with drainage wells that drain precipitation to drainage wells, drainage arrangement probably does not make sense.
Features of the drainage system along the perimeter of the foundation
For efficient work drainage system, it is necessary to lay it around the foundation. Single ditches or pipes will only accumulate water in one place and will not drain it.
At the same time, it is important to follow the technology of the device - place pipes or trenches at a certain angle so that water flows freely from the house. In addition, when installing a deep drainage system, it is especially critical to use the right materials, and also observe the principle of multi-layering. Otherwise, the system will not work well and will need to be rebuilt.
How does the drainage system around the foundation work?
The drainage system accumulates excess moisture in trenches or underground pipes (depending on the type of drainage chosen). Next, the water enters a common pipe or trench, the slope of which allows the accumulated moisture to be removed beyond the boundaries of the site. It is also possible to use wells that accumulate water and then pass it into the ground through a layer of crushed stone.
Surface drainage systems for blind areas
One of the system design options is the surface method.
This drainage method is suitable for areas with more or less flat terrain, low level swampiness and moderate precipitation intensity, since to a greater extent it only collects and drains melt and rainwater.
Deep drainage of the path at the foundation
For those areas where groundwater passes close to the surface of the earth and the soil contains predominantly clay, it is recommended to do deep drainage.
In this case, the system is similar to a multi-layer cake due to the use of several materials in a certain sequence.
Types of drainage
There are two types of blind area drainage. Each of them is preferable when certain conditions and the features of the site itself, the nuances of building a house, its location.
The first type of drainage is ring. Involves gasket flexible pipe along the perimeter of the building, with both ends of the pipe converging to one drainage well. The well itself is placed at the lowest point of the site.
The second type of drainage, wall drainage, is a more effective, but also more expensive option. Its principle is that four wells are installed in the corners of the house, and not one, as in ring drainage.
Drainage installation around the house
In areas with predominant clay soils, water is absorbed very slowly or stagnates. Even if the builders have tried to reliably waterproof the foundation, there is a possibility that in some places the seams are poorly processed or too thin layer mastics. In addition, over time it loses its properties and becomes unusable. Therefore, waterproofing alone will not be enough to protect the foundation.
Design principles
What factors need to be taken into account at the planning stage of the drainage system:
- Soil composition (which soils predominate - clay or sandy);
- The landscape of the site (is there a slope, lowlands, or is the area relatively flat);
- Groundwater levels and their fluctuations throughout the year;
- The position of the site relative to water bodies, is there a threat of spring floods;
- Average annual precipitation, as well as the maximum possible level of precipitation in a particular area;
- The building density of the site, the depth of adjacent foundations;
- Availability and area of asphalt and concrete coverings, making it difficult to absorb precipitation into the ground.
Only after assessing all of the above factors can the correct choice of the type of drainage system be made.
Components
For correct device drainage, you need to take into account all the necessary technical parameters, as well as follow the installation rules:
- When digging ditches for pipes, it is worth using a laser level to make the desired slope. The degree of slope depends on the diameter of the pipe - the larger the diameter, the less the slope:
- Use is necessary to filter water from small impurities that can clog pipe openings or crushed stone. Geotextiles vary in density and bandwidth– the denser the material, the lower the throughput;
- When choosing pipes, preference is most often given to polymer corrugated pipes, but it is possible to use ceramic, asbestos-cement and porous pipes. Absolutely not suitable steel pipes, since they are susceptible to corrosion;
- The pipes must be perforated (this can be either a finished pipe with holes or a pipe modified with your own hands). In this case, the hole diameter is made smaller size gravel used;
- To monitor the condition of the system and clean it, it is necessary to use inspection wells (from rings or ready-made ones). They are placed at a distance of no more than 12 m from each other. The well itself is made storage (with a solid bottom - additional water drainage is required here) or absorbent (there is no bottom - the water goes into the ground through crushed stone).
Pricing
The cost of a drainage system primarily depends on its footage. The type of system also significantly influences the cost - a surface system does not require high costs, while deep laying of the system is more labor-intensive and financially expensive. With ring drainage, savings can be achieved by reducing the number of inspection wells, while in the wall version several wells will be required.
The price will be influenced by the type of pipes selected, as well as the brand of geotextile.
Drainage around the blind area
As is now obvious, the blind area rather serves as a path along the house. If the width allows, then on the blind area you can put garden furniture. If the goal is to divert water from the house, it is necessary to arrange drainage.
What you should know about drainage systems
The drainage system is designed before the house is built.
Moreover, if the house has a foundation in the form of a slab, preparatory work When digging trenches, it is better to do it before the slab is poured. If pile or strip foundation, the construction of the system is done after the completion of the building and blind area.
Drainage device around the blind area
When installing drainage, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the system, especially if it is a system closed type. Due to the multilayer nature, the depth of the closed system is significantly greater than the surface:
- The thickness of the sand layer should be at least 5-10 cm;
- A layer of gravel or crushed stone - at least 10-15 cm from the bottom of the pipe and the same amount from above;
- The thickness of the pipe, if it is polymer, will be at least 110 mm;
- The final layer of soil is 20-30 cm thick.
In addition, the slope must be maintained along the entire length of the pipe.
Installing drainage around the house - fighting groundwater
Water passing close to the surface of the earth can greatly damage buildings on the site. Therefore, in some cases, drainage is an urgent need.
Many specialized companies offer their services for arranging drainage systems. However, knowing the features of your site and installation rules, it is quite possible to equip the system yourself.
How to do it yourself
If a decision has been made to construct a surface system, then ditches with a depth and width of at least 50 cm are first dug. Next, the inner surface of the ditches can be:
- Strengthen with stone;
- Cover with waterproofing material;
- Concrete;
- Lay a plastic or asbestos cement pipe sawn lengthwise;
- Place in specially designed plastic trays.
The ditches are covered from above decorative grilles, which protects them from the accumulation of debris and allows for cleaning.
In the case of installing a deep drainage system, work is carried out in a certain sequence:
- First, they dig a trench. Depth is determined maximum point rising groundwater;
- The bottom is covered with sand, then the surface of the trench is lined with geotextile so that the edges extend beyond the walls of the trench;
- Crushed stone or gravel is laid on top of the geotextile, and a perforated pipe is placed in the middle;
- Next, the pipe is covered with a new layer of crushed stone;
- The edges of the geotextile are folded like a wrapper;
- The final layer is sand and fertile soil.
Only such a sequence of action and the use of these particular materials makes it possible to achieve high efficiency of the deep drainage system.
Conclusion
Everyone is familiar with the saying “water wears away stones.” In case of country building the consequences of this saying can be very disastrous - excessive soil moisture, heavy rainfall, stagnation of water after melting snow or heavy rainfall may ultimately lead to the destruction of the foundation and the formation of mold.
To avoid such unpleasant consequences, you should think about installing a drainage system around your country house.
Draining water from the foundation is the main task of owners of private homes. Its solution will help to cope with the problem of the destructive effect of moisture on the foundation, as well as significantly extend the life of the house. To do this, a blind area and drainage are installed, which ensure the outflow of water and prevent its penetration underground.
Organization of effective water outflow
Drainage around the blind area
Often, having made a blind area, the owners believe that the problem is solved. This event can, to a certain extent, minimize the harmful effects of moisture and expand the pedestrian area.
To ensure maximum protection, it is necessary to arrange drainage around the house.
If it is missing, then moisture will still penetrate to the base underground, to prevent this from happening, the length of the blind area should be 3-4 m, and this is irrational in private construction.
What you should know about drainage systems
Drainage around the blind area is necessary in the following cases:
- the building is located in a lowland;
- construction was carried out on heaving soil or clay soil;
- groundwater is too high;
- the foundation is buried below the freezing level;
- The path is made of non-monolithic materials.
Taking into account the factors listed above, the arrangement of blind areas and drainage is required in almost every case.
Drainage device around the blind area
The blind area drainage consists of several layers. Also, the drainage scheme should include storm water inlets. Not only the quantity and degree of compaction of all layers is important, but also the placement of all elements, since the required slope will ensure high-quality removal of moisture from the blind area. The arrangement of drainage systems can be carried out using profile pipes, but in this case the technology will be different.
The drainage arrangement will depend on the type of blind area, since different technologies are used for the soft and hard versions.
In any case, you will need to dig a trench in which the entire system will be installed. Before you start further work, the bottom of the trench must be leveled with a layer of sand.
Types of drainage
To install the most effective drainage system, you need to correctly determine its type. Today there are three key types of drainage systems:
Open. Small ditches with a depth and width of 0.5 meters, dug along the perimeter of the structure. This option is not convenient; it spoils the appearance of the site and makes it difficult to move around the territory. The grooves are covered with gratings, which perform protective and aesthetic functions, preventing debris from entering the system.
Closed. They provide the most effective moisture removal, which maximally protects the base from moisture and water. Often this type is chosen by owners of houses and bathhouses who are planning to build a basement where they can organize a basement technical floor, cellar, etc.
Backfill. This option is similar to the open one, but instead of bars it uses bulk materials, such as gravel, crushed stone, etc., which prevent the entry of debris. But by surrounding the blind area with such drainage, siltation cannot be ruled out, which leads to the need to clean it and replace the bulk layer.
When working with drainage, it is necessary to take into account all elements, such as the main system, storm drainage, and additional waterproofing.
Only with this approach will it be possible to create reliable protection foundations from the harmful effects of moisture.
Features of the closed version
Closed drainage system It is difficult to install, but this option is considered the most effective. Its service life is quite long and does not require regular maintenance procedures.
This method can be used as a wall-mounted option, this is especially true if you have a basement.
The scheme provides for backfilling the filter layer and further installation of pipes with perforated holes, through which moisture will be removed.
Drainage installation around the house
Drainage around the house and blind area are the main elements that ensure the safety of the foundation from moisture. But when arranging them, it is important to take into account a lot of additional factors, for example, the features of the sewerage system on the site, as well as the water supply system. But regardless of the type of drainage chosen, there are certain general rules that must be adhered to.
Design principles
In order for the drainage of the blind area around the house to be as effective as possible, it is important to adhere to the following key principles.
- Correct depth. We install the drainage deeper than the ground freezes. This is extremely important, because during the spring thaw, when enhanced drainage is necessary, the frozen system will not be able to cope with its function.
- Slope of drainage pipes. Here it is important to determine the degree of inclination as correctly as possible, since an excessive or insufficient angle of inclination leads to ineffective drainage. The correct slope should guarantee the unimpeded movement of water at a speed of approximately 1 m/s.
- Place of drainage. The place where moisture will be removed should be selected in advance. It could be a lake, river, ravine. In order to exclude reverse movement moisture through the pipes, they need to be located above the water level in the reservoir.
- Additional features. Even the most efficient system may malfunction, especially with copious amounts of water. In this case, you need to consider additional system pumping, for example using a pump.
Device diagram
Adhering to the principles described above, you can independently organize quality system drainage of water from the house.
Components
The main components of modern drainage systems are:
- Pipes. If more is required economical option, then in this case an asbestos cement pipe is suitable. But a more modern option is polymer or composite materials. They are easy to install and are characterized by good reliability and durability.
- Drainage well. If there is no natural drainage basin, then you will need to organize a special container where the water flow will be organized.
- Pumps. Even in the most reliable system, moisture will settle; in order to remove it, you will need to use pumping units.
Components
Additional components are also possible. It all depends on the type of drainage system chosen.
Installing drainage around the house - fighting groundwater
Draining water away from your foundation is critical to extending its life.
This is especially true when building houses on clay soils, since freezing and heaving lead to rapid destruction of the foundation.
For a system to work effectively, it must be carefully thought out and outlined.
Design of a groundwater drainage system
Drawing up a project will help you think through every nuance of the future drainage system. It must provide for all the elements: placement of pipes, their rotations, surface slopes, groove sizes, location drainage well. Such a project will help not only to see what the drainage system will look like in the end, but to correctly calculate the amount necessary materials for drainage and blind area.
How to do it yourself
Before proceeding with the basic procedures for organizing drainage around the house with your own hands, it is necessary to ensure high-quality waterproofing the very foundation. To do this, you can use a layer of roofing felt.
There are also a huge number of other, more modern, waterproofing materials, for example sprayed, geotextile or bitumen options. Next, pipes are laid into gutters, which also need to be waterproofed, after which they are backfilled with gravel.
Making a blind area with a drain
The blind area and drainage can be installed simultaneously. This water drainage option allows you to combine two processes, which will significantly reduce the time required for work.
Marking and excavation work
First of all, it is necessary to make markings that will take into account the placement of all elements. On initial stage it is necessary to determine the width of the trench. It is important that it is wider than the roof overhang so that the flowing precipitation does not cause damage to the structure.
Excavation
To adhere to the selected parameters along the perimeter, you should drive in pegs and stretch a fishing line between them, to which the orientation will be carried out.
Pouring the blind area
After waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt or mastic, you can begin pouring the blind area of the house with concrete mortar. Before the procedure begins, formwork is constructed and reinforcement is carried out. It is important to consider the angle of the slope so that water flows away from the house.
Pouring the blind area
After pouring, while the blind area is still damp, gutters are formed for drainage or pipes are embedded in the mixture. Further work can begin only after the concrete solution has completely dried.
Gutter installation
The final stage will be the organization of drainage. The direction and slope will depend on the location of the reservoir where the water will be drained. To do this, a trench is dug along the edge of the entire blind area, the width of which will be similar to the pipe used.
Gutter installation
You can use both the sewer option and asbestos-cement or polymer pipes, cut in half. The base for the pipe can be compacted with sand and gravel, and the trench is also filled with concrete, which gives additional strength.
Blind areas and drainage make it possible to create high-quality protection for the foundation from the influence of atmospheric moisture and groundwater, so their arrangement is mandatory.
Correct placement of elements and adherence to installation technology make it possible to obtain maximum effect, even carrying out the arrangement of drainage on their own.
When installing a blind area, it often becomes necessary to organize water drainage in the desired direction, i.e. drainage. In which direction to make the slope you need to look on the spot (to save material, it is better to do it along the slope of the soil). But from a practical and aesthetic point of view, it is better to divert the water behind the house - to the plot, if there is one.The drain can be lined with ready-made concrete or plastic gutters. A meter will cost from 300 rubles (up to 2000).
When installing formwork for a blind area, it is necessary to take into account the slopes of the drainage in the desired direction. If you have a ready-made blind area that is leveled around the perimeter, making the slopes beautifully will be problematic because the edge of the gutter will be below the edge of the blind area.
To create the shape of a drain, you can use timber, channel, pipe and others suitable materials. I decided to use plastic ones sewer pipes diameter 110 mm, length 2 m. I bought 6 pcs. (the length of one side of the house is 11 m). They will serve to shape the gutter. For the production of concrete, screenings - very fine crushed stone - are best suited.
Before starting work, it is necessary to remove the layer of soil at the edge of the blind area to a depth of 15 cm (25-30 cm wide). Add sand and compact it. Using two pegs and a rope, we set the required slope for the formwork, 150-200 mm from the blind area. We connect the pipes to the required length and lay them approximately half the diameter close to the blind area (do not forget about the slope). Fill it with concrete. At the very edge of the gutter being poured (at formwork), it is advisable to lay reinforcement or steel wire along the entire length for additional strength.
In general, it is advisable to use a vibrator, but I limited myself to tamping the reinforcement.
After about 12 hours, remove the formwork, take out the pipes. If necessary, additionally coat the resulting cracks and level the ends with a similar mixture. Next, we rearrange the formwork one by one around the perimeter of the house and cast the gutters in the same way.
There may be a problem with the corners - I made the corner itself at 90 degrees and joined it that way, but it’s easier to buy a ready-made elbow). Proportions for concrete: 1 cement + 1.5 sand + 3 crushed stone.
It is necessary to moisten the finished drain for a week at least twice a day in order for the concrete to gain strength.
After making the drain, the pipes can be used to divert water even further from the house. To do this, you need to dig trench(s) of the required length behind the house from the blind area - from the drain outlet point and lay the pipes there.
If there is a drainage system from the roof and the blind area, there is very little chance of water washing away the foundation of the house.
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It seems that there is nothing simpler than the blind area of a house. But some may do it either not according to the rules, or do not even know about these rules. The blind area must be carried out according to a number of rules and principles. If you follow these rules, the foundation and area of the house will not be exposed to a humid environment. Therefore, the blind area is extremely important for the house to serve its owners for a long time. Also, the advantage of the correct blind area is that when correct execution, no repairs required.
How to properly fill a blind area Advice When the task is to make a blind area, it is necessary to remove the old one, if any. If it is not there, then you can start preparing a new one. We get rid of the plant layer (about 45 cm, and even more). Removal upper layers passes until hard soils (limestone, clay) appear.
The first stage - geotextile
The first layer is geotextile. This layer is optional, but extremely important. Next is laid granite crushed stone(from 5 to 10 cm). We level the crushed stone and compact it. After compaction, a second layer of geotextile is laid on the crushed stone.
Second stage - sand
The next step is sand. The sand is selected of good quality, without any impurities. The layer of sand should not exceed 20 cm. The sand is compacted and then generously moistened with water using a hose. Next we tamp again. These manipulations are carried out until the sand base becomes smooth. When the base is ready, we move on to the trench for the pipe. It is necessary in order to rainwater flowed into the drainage system.
It is necessary to choose the right sand. Advice Slope
Also, when placing the pipe, you must remember the need for a slope. And the rainwater inlet is installed according to the level of the slope of the blind area, and not according to the horizontal level. They must be on the same level. The blind area also requires drainage along the edges. It must be secured. A gutter prevents water from reaching the ground next to your home.
Is drainage really that important?
Yes, drainage is extremely important because... without it, the area will be too wet, which means dirt will form.
Plastic gutters are attached using mortar, and do not forget about slopes. When the installation of communications has come to an end, you can sprinkle sand on all the uneven areas. This layer must be compacted and leveled, but this must be done extremely carefully.
Installation of formwork for blind area
After leveling the surface, you can begin formwork. For these purposes it will do edged board with parameters 50 mm thick and 150 mm wide. A level is used during installation. Every one and a half meters the formwork is fixed with a block (depth 50 cm).
Laying the slab
The formwork is installed - we lay polystyrene foam slabs. The thickness is 50 mm. The material allows the ground under the blind area to be resistant to freezing. This also helps to avoid deformation of the top layer. The slabs are laid tightly, without the formation of voids.
Attaching to the house
The blind area must be attached to the house so that it does not move away over time. We drill holes in the foundation (distance 75 cm). holes for fittings. We drive pieces of reinforcement into the holes and tie them together metal carcass. The cage pitch is 25 cm. Preparation is complete.
Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to ensure wooden spacers(one inch board). The gasket will help compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete. If the spacer is not installed, the concrete will crack after a while. Spacers must be laid every 2 meters. At a greater distance, there will be no benefit from the spacers. They also need to be installed in the corners of the building. Gaskets also help level the surface of the blind area in the future.
Pouring revenge Conclusion: The blind area of a house is, although a simple, but extremely scrupulous process. Everything must be done according to the rules, according to the instructions. If the rules are neglected, the entire work can be ruined. If you make the blind area correctly, then it and the house will last a long time without requiring repairs. It should also be noted that before pouring the blind area, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work that can improve the quality of the entire structure. The blind area must be taken seriously, as well as other stages of construction.
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Blind area of the house
The term “blind area” comes from the words “to pave, to cover the surface with something” (S. Ozhegov’s dictionary) and “to pave with a descent” (V. Dahl’s dictionary). Thus, a blind area is a “paved” strip 0.6-1.2 m wide, adjacent to the foundation or base of a building with a 10% slope (descent) from it. Not so long ago, the blind area was made of clay. A shallow wide trench was dug along outside foundation, filled with well-kneaded clay and compacted very carefully with the addition of water. When compacting, a slope was created (and the clay was very good natural material), along which water left the foundation.
Design of the blind area
Making a blind area with your own hands is not very difficult. The blind area consists of two layers: underlying and upper, protective. Sand or crushed stone is usually used as the bottom layer, but the material is always selected depending on the type of protective coating. Concrete, asphalt, cobblestones, and tiles are used in the top layer, but in any case, the blind area must be waterproof.
If the house has a warm basement or basement, the blind area must be made with insulation to reduce the estimated freezing depth. An insulated blind area will protect the basement from sudden temperature fluctuations and eliminate swelling of the soil near the foundation.
Construction of a blind area on heaving soils
The construction of any blind area begins with removing the surface layer of soil to a depth of at least 15 cm and removing remnants of roots (if this is not done, sprouting grass will destroy the blind area over time). The width and depth of the trench for the blind area depend on the type of soil and the extension of the eaves of the roof. On all heaving soils, the blind area should be 30 cm wider than the cornice, but not less than 90 cm, and at least 25 cm deep, and should also be adjacent to the base of the house and not have breaks along its entire perimeter. Therefore, the most common and suitable blind area material for heaving soils is monolithic concrete.
A layer of sand 10-15 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the dug trench with obligatory tamping, and then crushed stone is calculated in such a way as to bring its layer to the ground level, and a formwork 10 cm high is made along the edge of the future blind area.
The base of the blind area is poured with a 7 cm layer of concrete grade M200-300 and, without allowing it to set, it is laid reinforcing mesh(in this case, the reinforcement works in bending). If the blind area is not reinforced, it will crack under the influence of heaving forces and expansion of freezing water in the cracks. After this they pour upper layer concrete 3-5 cm thick, while simultaneously making a slope from the walls of the house about 10%, More wet surface concrete is covered with cement, smoothing it with a trowel. This improves the waterproofing of concrete (reinforced concrete).
The blind area is poured in sections of 1.5-2.5 m (the size of the section depends on the width of the blind area), providing between them expansion joints 15-20 mm thick, which are subsequently filled with tar or liquid glass, IN Lately For these purposes, flexible vinyl tapes are often used, which, bending under load, prevent the formation of cracks.
A gutter is made along the outer perimeter of the blind area for water drainage. To prevent water from the roof from falling directly onto the blind area, a gutter is installed along the roof, and through a drain pipe the water is discharged into a storm drain or into a ditch.
Blind areas on other types of soil
On less watered soils, trenches for the blind area are dug of smaller depth and width, and protective coverings are made of concrete slabs, asphalt or laid out from cobblestones. If the type of soil allows, then turf can also be used.
The base under the asphalt covering must be compacted with crushed stone or gravel with a size of 40-60 mm, carefully compacting them. The coating is made from asphalt concrete mixture factory prepared. The temperature for laying the mixture must be at least 120°C at an air temperature not lower than +5°C. The asphalt concrete blind area is usually made continuous without expansion joints.
For a cobblestone blind area, clay, sand and, accordingly, cobblestone are used. First, a 15 cm thick layer of clay is poured, and then a 10 cm thick layer of sand, into which cobblestones are laid.
The cheapest covering for a blind area is a compacted layer of crushed stone. However, if there is unorganized drainage from the roof, such covering will have to be repaired regularly.
On dry, non-subsiding soils, a blind area is usually not made. But in places where rain and melt water drains from the roof, drainage gutters are installed near the foundation to prevent soil erosion.
Sand blind area
The idea of a sand blind area is that if the sand is wetted with a warm solution of liquid glass, and then with a hardener solution, the result is that the sand binds and turns into sandstone. A blind area made of such fixed sand will not be washed away by water and will prevent water from penetrating under the foundation.
Liquid glass - sodium (potassium) silicate - has a density of 1.35 g/cm3. IN painting work Potassium liquid glass is used; in concrete glass, sodium glass is used. The so-called silicate block is available for sale. To turn a silicate block into liquid glass, it is crushed and boiled with the addition of a small amount of water for 6-8 hours. excess pressure in the boiler the cooking process is reduced to 2-3 hours.
Construction of the blind area begins with removing the turf and digging a trench 25 cm deep. The hole is watered with herbicide and then covered with a 10 cm thick layer of sand, which is carefully compacted. The compacted layer is poured with warm liquid glass from a regular watering can, and then immediately with a hardener solution. A 5-10% solution is used as a hardener. calcium chloride or 3-7% solution of sodium fluoride. The covering top layer of the blind area is made of sifted fine sand in the same sequence, and then the entire blind area is covered with roofing felt or film for 3-4 days.
Blind area device
We often see this picture in the spring on our plots. If you do not make the correct blind area, then the foundation will gradually collapse.
Insulating the blind area and basement of the building allows you to avoid freezing of the soil under the foundation and, thereby, avoiding its heaving.
Modern blind area from polymer materials looks great
To make “cobblestones” for the blind area, you can use a special plastic mold
A beautiful blind area not only fulfills its main function but also serves as a path around the house
Repair of the blind area
It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the blind area and repair it on time. For example, expand small cracks and fill them with cement mortar. The most problematic area of the blind area is where it connects to the foundation or base of the building. Approximately 50% of troubles occur when the blind area moves away from the foundation.
If it is still a small gap, you can use sealants or waterproofing fillers. If the gap is large enough, it must be eliminated immediately, but in a more labor-intensive way. Experts recommend filling the cavity with concrete, having first cleared it of sand, soil and debris. For reliability, iron reinforcement is added to concrete. You can use cement-sand mortar with the inclusion of crushed stone. Two to three days after the solution has hardened, the surface should be coated with a regular primer for exterior use.
After sealing the gap, preventive measures must be taken. To prevent the blind area from moving away, you need to dig a ditch 20-30 cm deep on its opposite side and also fill it with concrete.
In conclusion, I would like to say that a correctly and beautifully made blind area with your own hands will serve not only its direct purposes, but will also serve as a path around the house. And remember that when constructing a blind area, regardless of what material was chosen for the underlying layer and coating, constructive solution the blind area should always ensure its watertightness.
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DIY blind area around the house
The blind area of the building is used for buildings for various purposes– residential, industrial, commercial, etc. The blind area allows surface water to be drained away from the foundation, thereby protecting it from the harmful effects of moisture. It is a strip with a width of 0.6 to 1.2 meters, which is adjacent to the foundation or base of the building. Often a slope of approximately 10% is created, which allows water to drain away.
The installation of a blind area around the house involves determining not only the decorative wishes of the house owners, but also determining individual features (width, arrangement of layers, etc.) in connection with the geological conditions of the site on which the building is located, some planning decisions and rely on the design features of roof drainage. While the external finishing of the blind area can be anything: concrete, paving slabs or even crushed stone.
Most often, in the process of building individual country houses or estates, crumpled clay with a thickness of about 10-15 centimeters is used as a material for creating a blind area, with which a hard covering is laid. Clay plays the role of a waterproofing agent and flawlessly removes surface water from the foundation and walls of the building. External covering Again, different things are used.
Most cheap blind area at home, which you can do with your own hands, involves the use of crushed stone, which is laid with compaction.
If roof drainage is not organized, then there will be a need to regularly correct the surface of the blind area. This need will arise due to the fact that water flowing over the entire surface of the roof slope, and not along the gutters, will wash away the crushed stone.
A more expensive option, and, accordingly, more reliable, is to use it on top of compacted crushed stone cement mortar. Thus, as in the previous case, a layer of compacted crushed stone is created, which is subsequently filled with a pre-prepared solution. This allows you to significantly increase the level of protection of the walls and foundation of the house from surface water, and will also make it easier for you to maintain the house itself.
And finally, the highest quality and capital option is a blind area in the form of a monolithic concrete slab. Involves use monolithic slab made of concrete with a thickness of about 6-8 centimeters, which plays the role of a blind area.
This case not suitable for soils saturated with water and clay soils. Sometimes developers do not take these features into account, and then the owners of a new house have to quickly patch up the holes that appear and constantly repair the existing structure.
There is one more, most modern version, which involves the use of reinforced slabs created on the basis of cement-sand mortar. You can make such slabs yourself.
Step-by-step instruction
Optimal sizes Reinforced sand-cement slabs have dimensions of 60 cm by 60 cm. In order to make them, formwork is first created, it is advisable to simultaneously make formwork into two elements with a height of 3 cm, which will become the final thickness of our slab. The sides of the formwork cut into each other and are pressed against each other in such a way that later this formwork can be disassembled as simply as possible.
In order for the blind area to have the most optimal characteristics, the slabs should be reinforced. This is done using a small frame, which will create the required level of strength of the slab even with a thickness of only 3 cm. In addition, such “insides” allow you to save about 50% of the sand and cement consumed. In the reinforcement process, you can use almost any reinforced mesh with a cell size starting from 80 mm.
The smaller this parameter, the more strength and rigidity the mesh will give to the slabs.
If you do not have such a grid at hand, then this element can be replaced with the simplest tin cans. To do this, it is necessary to cut strips with a width of about 8-10 millimeters from their sidewalls and connect them together. You can also use it for reinforcement steel rope, but the wire should first be burned and cleaned of residual oil and insulation.
After the formwork for the blind area is ready, you can begin the actual production of the slabs. To do this, we lay on the base of the formwork plastic film. In order for water to drain better, it is advisable to create a perfectly flat surface with a minimum number of folds. Then the formwork is filled to two-thirds of the entire height with a pre-prepared cement-sand mortar. After this, the reinforced mesh is laid, after which the solution is added to the end.
To make the setting process faster, the surface of the tile can be covered with burlap or simpler options - mowed grass or hay.
After the slabs have completely dried (at least 3-4 days), you can remove the formwork from them.
A blind area around the house using special sand-cement reinforced slabs is an indispensable way to protect the building from the foundation in cases where the roof drainage is not organized, because in such cases gullies are often created on its surface, especially during the spring when snow thaws or period of autumn rains. The use of such sand-cement slabs allows you to live much longer without the occurrence of this kind of difficulty, because the only peculiarity in their use is the need to periodically reposition the slabs with a 90-degree turn.
Important feature sand-cement slabs is the possibility of decorating them. So, if desired, you can add dyes to the solution various colors, receiving multi-colored slabs.
Of course, if desired, you can use other methods of decorating the blind area. So, the blind area around the house is made of paving slabs will be a rather original and at the same time profitable way to give your home a chic appearance. Due to the fact that such tiles have quite high coefficient strength and durability parameter, its use can significantly extend the service life of the blind area and improve water-repellent characteristics.
Important characteristic This method makes it possible to create not only a beautiful surface of this protective element of the foundation of the house, but also excellent characteristics of the material used.
To the question “how to properly make a blind area at home?” It's quite difficult to answer correctly. After all, even experienced builders make mistakes when choosing one method or another. It is important to take into account a huge number of details: not only appearance and the financial side, but also the features of the geological location of the site on which the house is built, the features of the soil, the presence of an organized drainage system, etc.
Video
The following video material will help you understand the technology of building a blind area:
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Installation of drainage from blind area | ThermoConnect
When installing a blind area, it often becomes necessary to organize water drainage in a suitable direction, i.e. drainage. In which direction to make the slope you need to look on the spot (to save material, it is better to do it along the slope of the ground). But from a practical and aesthetic point of view, it is better to divert the water behind the house - to the plot, if there is one.The drain can be laid out with ready-made concrete or plastic gutters. A meter will cost from 300 rubles (up to 2000).
When installing formwork for a blind area, you need to take into account the slopes of the drainage in the appropriate direction. If you have a ready-made blind area that is leveled around the perimeter, making the slopes perfectly will be problematic because the edge of the gutter will be below the edge of the blind area.
To create the shape of the drain, you can use timber, channel, pipe and other suitable materials. I decided to use plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm and a length of 2 m. I bought 6 pieces. (the length of one side of the house is 11 m). They will serve to shape the gutter.
For the production of concrete, screening is ideal - very small crushed stone.
Before work, you need to remove the layer of earth at the edge of the blind area to a depth of 15 cm (25-30 cm wide). Add sand and compact it.
Using 2 pegs and a rope, we set the required slope for the formwork, 150-200 mm from the blind area. We connect the pipes to the required length and lay them approximately one-half of the diameter close to the blind area (do not forget about the slope). Fill it with concrete. At the very edge of the poured area gutters (near the formwork), it is better to place reinforcement or iron wire along the entire length for additional strength.
In general, it is better to use a vibrator, but I limited myself to tamping the reinforcement.
After about 12 hours, we remove the formwork, take out the pipes. If necessary, we additionally coat the resulting cracks and level the ends with a similar consistency. Then we rearrange the formwork alternately around the perimeter of the house and cast the gutters in the same way.
There may be a problem with the angles - I made the angle itself at 90 degrees and joined it this way, but it’s easier to buy a ready-made elbow).
Proportions for concrete: 1 cement + 1.5 sand + 3 crushed stone.
It is necessary to moisten the finished drain for a week at least twice a day in order for the concrete to gain strength.
Work should only be carried out at above-zero temperatures.
After making a drain, the pipes can be used to further divert water from the house. To do this, you need to dig trench(s) of the required length behind the house from the blind area - from the drain outlet point and lay the pipes there.
If there is a drainage system from the roof and the blind area, there is very little chance of water washing away the foundation of the house.
How to make drainage around the blind area around the house?
Any drainage is planned and done when available detailed plan home and drainage system. It is almost impossible to say how to do this in your case without having to redo it every year.
One of possible options This is the installation of concrete trays immediately where your blind area ends. For example, like this: Fig. 1
This method is one of the cheapest and most acceptable in your particular case.
A trench is dug after the blind area, sand is compacted 10 cm thick. Then a tray is installed with a mandatory slope with a slope of 10 mm towards the drain. per meter After which the excess concrete is poured, the seams are removed and sealed with sealant. A grate is placed on top.
Required at the connection points storm sewer To mount a so-called sand trap to the trays, they are included in the kit.
Actually, such work is carried out when the blind area is being installed and storm water bends In general, the drainage system itself should look something like this: Fig. 2
It is better to make a drain for the blind area immediately together with the blind area, if only for the reason that gutters are also needed under the roof drain (vertical pipes),
Look at the litter already, the pipe can be extended and moved beyond the blind area.
But if the blind area is already ready, the slopes from the building to the edge of the blind area are correctly observed, then you need to decide whether to buy ready-made gutters, or cut them from a pipe (for example, asbestos-cement, cut the pipe lengthwise, you can use a grinder).
We have decided, then a trench is dug along the edge of the blind area, the depth is relative to the gutters (gutters) plus we take into account the thickness of the sand cushion.
Approximate dimensions of the trench: 150 mm depth, 300 mm width.
Gutter gutters are also laid with a slope.
Here, look at the place where to make the slope, as an option it is a drainage hole.
Next, add sand, slightly moisten it and tamp it down.
We install pads under the gutters themselves, this is necessary for the slope (for example, reinforcement, or reinforcing mesh).
That's it, now we install gutters in the trench, it is important that they fit tightly to the blind area, and fill them with concrete (we concrete the gutters).
After the concrete has dried, the joint between the blind area and the gutter is sealed.
If the gutters are factory-made, then end caps also come with them, we install them.
If there is a grating on the gutters, we attach it too. 
The constant impact of precipitation on the integrity of the foundation can lead to negative consequences. The foundation becomes wet, damp, eroded, overgrown with mold, and moisture rises to upper floors. Doors swell, warp, and ice appears in the local area. To prevent such problems from happening, it is imperative to drain water from the foundation of the house. Drainage is required when constructing a residential building to calculate the angle of inclination, select materials, and calculate the depth of the elements of the drainage system.
Regardless of the design, the operating principle of any drainage system is to collect water and transport it to a designated place Source homerenovates.com
Types of drainage systems
To protect the base of the building from precipitation and melt water are used different designs drainage and combined into one system. These include: blind area, drainage, vertical wells, drainage systems.
Blind area
In the case of an average non-critical precipitation rate per year in a certain place, the foundation is protected using a blind area. It is usually made of concrete, but storage devices can also be installed. Each of the options allows water to be drained from the blind area of the house to a safe distance, in accordance with its width.
The blind area must meet the appropriate quality characteristics:
it should protrude 25-30 cm compared to the roof;
its installation is required around the entire circumference of the house;
it is necessary to install a slight slope (less than 5 degrees), which will ensure the drainage of water in the other direction from the walls of the house;
the blind area should consist of bedding (crushed stone, gravel) and a concrete covering.
If the soil moisture is low and there is little precipitation, then the blind area will handle the drainage of water from the foundation. Source vsedosky.ru
Gutter
The drainage system also helps protect the foundation from excess water. Without it, a lot of precipitation will go to the foot of the building, flood the walls, and wash away the foundation. Because of this, the surface of the walls becomes moldy, and the wooden components rot.
Installing a drain, which consists of gutters and pipes, helps to optimally protect your home from the upper water flow. The main task is to drain water at a sufficient distance from the base of the building. For this use:
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general or private sewer;
containers for watering beds.
drainage well;
The gutter collects water from the roof and carries it away from the foundation Source dekordoma.com
Vertical wells
For this drainage option, it is necessary to drill vertical wells in the form of a five-meter well. A rail is inserted into it and wrapped in geotextile.
The lath is covered with gravel, the well neck is closed with crushed stone and geomatter. Then all elements of the system are masked with turf. Such wells in the most flooded areas help reduce groundwater levels and quickly drain large puddles.
Usage vertical wells when building a house in places with a lot of groundwater Source kamtehnopark.ru
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer foundation design and repair services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Drainage systems
The drainage system is a more expensive and time-consuming method, but more effective. A study of the terrain, angle of inclination, and expected load is required (based on this, the material is selected).
The drainage system includes three types:
layered - used very often, laid under the entire territory of the building in the form of sand, crushed stone, gravel “cushion”;
internal drainage- pipes laid under basement buildings or under the entire foundation, and then leading into the well;
external drainage - located around the circumference of the building and includes trenches and pipes to direct water into the well.
External drainage has two types:
Open drainage system - a ditch is dug around the circumference. The method is cheap and effective, but the aesthetics leave much to be desired.
Closed system - sand and crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the dug trenches. Then pipes leading to a well or drain are laid there, wrapped in geotextile, and masked with turf.
A good drainage system for draining water from the foundation of the house is designed together with the house design itself Source strodom.ru
How to drain melt and storm water from the foundation
Seasonal formations surface water are eliminated through complex actions, including:
roof drainage system;
blind areas;
drainage system.
A roof drain is needed to combine water flows after rain and melting snow. Before water from the roof is drained away from the house, water flows are redirected to storm drains under the gutters.
The removal of melt and storm water from the base is carried out by ring drainage. Such drainage involves trenches with pipes directed to the sewer system.
Integrated drainage system Source krutostroi.com
Groundwater drainage
Only a foundation drainage system, which is recommended to be installed before building a house, will help protect the foundation of the building and drain water.
Drainage of groundwater from the house using a deep drainage system, more suitable for areas with high level groundwater. It is being designed professional specialists according to the following plan:
the soil of the area for placement is studied;
the level of groundwater rise is determined for the period of rains and snowmelt;
the estimated load on the drainage system is calculated, taking into account the water collection area;
The slopes of the terrain are determined to perform gravity flow.
Deep drainage of groundwater is carried out using perforated drainage pipes. There is a valve in the well that prevents back flow waste water into the drainage.
Installation of the foundation drainage system Source stroimdom.com.ua
Foundation drainage: types and features
Under difficult hydrogeological conditions of the area underground part buildings are protected with with the help of three types of drainage location:
wall-mounted – for houses with a basement and ground floor;
ring - for houses with all rooms above ground level;
reservoir – for slab foundation below the waterproof layer.
The wall drainage system is located underground along the wall.
The ring drainage is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the walls. At the bends, the pipe is rounded or has manhole. Typically the system is located around the entire circumference of the building, but there are exceptions.
Formative drainage surrounds the pipeline ring, and a layered drainage bedding is located under the slab.
Reservoir drainage is arranged before the foundation is poured Source readmehouse.ru
Drainage materials
When designing a drainage mechanism vital importance has a calculation of the degree of load on the drainage elements. Under heavy loads, plastic materials may not withstand, so a concrete version will be more reliable. Constructing wells, gutters, and channels from concrete can withstand 90 tons of pressure.
The use of cast iron protective gratings on gutters for drainage extends their service life. The material for rainwater inlets located around the circumference of the building is selected based on the degree of operational load.
The pipeline is laid around the perimeter of the building in trenches with a drainage layer.
Drainage pipes may have a corrugated or smooth surface. A smooth coating helps ensure good throughput for enhanced drainage, and a corrugated pipe gives rigidity, and therefore strength, to the pipeline.
What does a drainage system consist of to remove rainwater from a house? Source tl.decoratex.biz
Technology for installing drainage from the foundation of a house
Installation of a drainage system begins with the creation of its schematic image. The site plan indicates all elements, primarily the pipeline. It should be located around the perimeter of the entire building and the entire local area. Professional system installation crews often install pipelines using the herringbone pattern.
First mark the location autonomous sewerage or a well where the water will be directed. From this place to the building there is a straight line to the main drainage pipe. The line is connected to a circle of pipes covering the entire perimeter of the foundation. Then branches follow from the main line, which forms a long and branched pipeline system.
Video description
For a clear overview of foundation drainage and how to arrange it, watch the video:
Additional Water Collection Methods
As additional method To protect the foundation from watercourses, a lawn with tall, dense vegetation is used. With a strong root system, this grassy layer does not allow the top soil to become saturated with water; it helps to retain and drain water flow. It could be decorative decoration landscape, but of all the options for how to drain water from the foundation of an already built house, this is the least effective.
In heavily flooded areas, the usual method of draining water may not be enough. In this case, a combination of vertical and horizontal drainage is used (trenches are laid, wells are drilled).
Video description
For some more useful information about drainage, watch the video:
Conclusion
After studying the features of all drainage systems, you can choose the most suitable option for your situation. The main task is to determine what kind of water needs to be drained: melt and storm water or groundwater.