1.
2.
3.
4.

When arranging a sewer system with your own hands, you need to know how to lay sewer pipes, since they are mandatory element any system. There is nothing complicated about this, and knowledge about the basic aspects of this process will be enough. This article will discuss how to lay sewer pipes in a private house.

Today, the market is replete with materials for the manufacture of sewer systems: various pipes, fittings and other elements that provide reliable operation and hermetic connection of the structure.

Laying sewer pipes in a private home must be performed correctly. A trench is dug for the pipes, the bottom of which is filled with crushed stone and sand, although sometimes the pipeline is laid directly on the ground. The pipes are usually connected in several pieces at the top of the trench, and then laid down. Of course, with plastic pipes this operation is much easier, but with metal pipes you will have to work hard: this structure cannot be installed with your own hands, so additional equipment will be required.

When laying pipes on the bottom, you need to ensure that they do not sag by separate areas, otherwise problems cannot be avoided. Also, during work, you should constantly monitor the level of the pipes: failure to maintain the slope will certainly provoke system problems in the very near future.

The depth at which sewer pipes are laid in the ground is determined by the level of soil freezing in a given region. This value will be the initial value, and the final calculation of the depth of the trench along its entire length will be determined by knowing the distance to the sewer and the slope. To further reduce the likelihood of a pipeline freezing, it is worth insulating it: the cost of repairing a broken pipe will be much higher than the cost of insulating the entire pipeline.

An important aspect when installing a sewer system is sealing the pipes (which is especially difficult to do when doing the work yourself). When sealing pipes, you should be careful, since the performance of the system depends on the quality of the work: constant leaks due to poor connections can destroy the sewer system and make it impossible to use it further.

There are several ways to seal sewer pipe joints. One of them - caulking - is performed as follows: the socket is filled two-thirds of the space with a tarred rope, and the remaining space is completely filled cement mortar in a ratio of 9:1 (cement and water, respectively). This method is quite difficult to implement, but it is very reliable. If desired, you can use waterproof cement, and then the tourniquet will not be required.

Before connecting the pipes, they must be thoroughly cleaned - this is a mandatory preparatory operation, due to which the laying of sewer pipes in a private house is of high quality and reliable. In addition, immediately before connecting pipes or structural elements, it is necessary to lubricate them with glycerin or soap. All joints must be marked during preparation so that when the final laying of the pipes falls exactly into place.

Pipes for the sewer system in a private house

Considering the diversity available materials, there will be no problems with this issue. In addition, there will be no problems with how to lay a sewer pipe in a trench if you use the tips described in this article.

In the old days, installing a sewer system yourself was considered a very difficult task. The reason is very simple: the laying of sewer pipes in a private house was carried out using heavy and inconvenient cast iron pipes, the weight of which made it absolutely impossible to build anything independently.

Now this problem practically does not exist: suitable plastic pipes have been developed for sewerage, which are lighter, cheaper, and can be installed without any problems. Of course, laying sewer pipes and repairing them can easily be done with your own hands.

Before purchasing materials for the sewer system, it is necessary to prepare a project according to which all work will be carried out. The project should display all sewer lines, plumbing fixtures and the premises where they will be installed. It is also important to remember that different devices require different pipes and additional accessories.

The laying of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out with an eye to the pre-calculated slope value shown in the project. The amount of slope may vary depending on the situation, but the optimal value is considered to be 2 cm per meter of pipeline.

The diameter of the pipes for different sections also has important, and before laying the sewer pipes, you need to select the appropriate sections. For example, 110 mm pipes are used to connect a toilet, and for plumbing that only flushes water, drain pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient. Often thinner pipes with a diameter of 32 or 40 mm are used, which are suitable for bidets and washing machines.

To select pipes for connecting plumbing, you need to have an idea of ​​such an indicator as the diameter of the nominal diameter, which determines inner diameter sewer pipes. So, for bathtubs, sinks and showers, the value of this diameter is 40 mm, for washing machines and kitchen sinks - 40-50 mm, and for toilets - from 100 mm. When installing the riser, it is necessary to take into account that its diameter should be higher than largest diameter outlet pipe.

Additional sewerage elements for laying pipes with your own hands

Laying sewer pipes with your own hands is most often done using the socket method: one end of the pipe is inserted into the socket of the other, and sealing and shaped elements are located between them.

The main shaped parts used most often include:

• couplings;
• knee;
• adapters;
• plugs;
• crosses;
• audits;
• clamps

The coupling allows you to connect pipes to each other if a socket connection is not possible for one reason or another. For example, if you need to integrate two sections of pipe into the system that do not have sockets, then the coupling will allow you to make such a connection.

An elbow is a shaped part that allows you to change the direction of a sewerage pipeline. The angle of the knee can be different: the most common are products with an angle of 90, 45 and 35 degrees.

Transitions are needed to connect pipes of different diameters to each other. A good example Such a situation is a system in which the main line has a diameter of 110 mm, and the internal sewage system is made of 50 mm pipes.

In order to tightly block one of the sewer passages, plugs are used. Very often, these elements are used during the construction process: for example, if the sink has not yet been installed, but the sewerage system is already running, then the free hole must be closed with a plug.

The cross is a type of adapter and has 4 channels: three sockets for connecting pipes and one large outlet. This shaped element allows you to connect several pipes in one unit and direct them into one main line.

The revision is a tee with two sockets and a cover that comes off to clean the structure or troubleshoot problems that have arisen. Clamps are fasteners and allow you to fix the structure in place.

Plastic sewer pipes

Plastic pipes produced today can be made from different materials.

The raw materials for the manufacture of polymer pipes can be:

• polyethylene;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• polybutylene;
• polypropylene.

The most common are PVC pipes. Such products are characterized high resistance to most types of aggressive substances that can get into them or be outside. To the advantages of all types plastic pipes can be attributed to their low weight, which makes it possible to equip sewer system with your own hands, without the use of bulky equipment.

In addition, the inner surface of plastic pipes is smooth, so they are practically not subject to clogging, which speaks in favor of similar products. Another strong argument in favor of plastic pipes is long term their services, which makes it possible to create reliable system, capable of working without complaints for several decades.

Despite all the advantages of plastic pipes, the sewer system can still cause trouble. Problems most often arise precisely because of incorrect installation, and the result is quite disastrous. To prevent this from happening, the laying of sewer pipes in a private house must be carried out carefully, efficiently and in strict accordance with the project.

Clogged sewer pipes

The sewer system is often subject to blockages, no matter how high quality it is. Problems arise for a variety of reasons: incorrect technology for laying sewer pipes or other elements, poor quality of materials used, or incorrect operation. However, all these problems can be avoided if you use generally accepted rules and know some aspects of sewerage operation.

For example, blockages in the system often occur due to too much sharp corners turns or bends. It becomes much more difficult for drains to move in such places, so they require additional force, after which deposits remain on the inner surface of the pipeline. In addition, sometimes residents throw various garbage into the sewer, which is strictly prohibited: in the vast majority of cases, solid objects get stuck at the first turn and cause clogging.

Conclusion

Before laying sewer pipes correctly, you need to understand the building codes, rules and standards. If everything was done correctly, then there will be no problems with the sewer system, and it will be able to perform its functions with maximum efficiency.

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

Thanks to modern technologies in a private house it is quite possible to equip efficient sewerage with my own hands, knowing general principles devices, diagram, installation depth and other nuances. Primitive toilets are quickly becoming a thing of the past and are being replaced modern systems leads Wastewater. They don't exude unpleasant odor, effectively manage waste disposal and provide high level comfort for residents. In our material we will tell you how to make a sewer system for your home yourself, what to consider when designing, and how to install it.

Sewerage in a private house.

General principles of sewerage design

Definitely, the simplest option is when the house can be connected to the city sewer, but not all private plots have this opportunity. Therefore, you have to think about your own autonomous wastewater disposal system. Usually the internal communications device in the first and second cases is the same, but external device varies.

The internal system consists of plumbing fixtures, small-diameter pipes connected to them, which in turn are connected to wider pipes and go to the riser. Through it, sewage enters a horizontal wide pipe and is discharged outside. Border element of internal and external sewerage is the point of discharge of wastewater to the outside. Then, through wide pipes, the water enters a treatment plant or central sewer system.

The internal network of pipes and external communications form one single system.

When designing a sewage disposal system, it is worth considering a number of nuances and rules:

In general, the design of a sewage system for country house can be divided into the following works:

• internal - laying communications in all wet rooms (restroom, kitchen, bathroom), installing a riser and fan pipe;
• external - installation of an autonomous treatment plant (we will consider types of installations below) and supply of pipes to it.

Communications inside the house

Ideally, you need to think through the design of the drainage system at the stage of designing a home, placing all wet rooms close to each other, because with finished building a number of difficulties may arise. The location of internal communications in the house can be absolutely anything and is selected individually for each building. In the photo below we show an example of pipe routing inside a building.

Sewage system in a private house.

Wastewater system design

First of all, it is worth drawing up a diagram of the future sewerage system. A detailed drawing will allow you to see the work plan, make a list of necessary materials, and make a cost calculation. To draw up a plan, arm yourself with a ruler or tape measure, a pencil and a sheet of graph paper.

Instructions for drawing up a sewage disposal project:

1. Draw a house plan to scale.
2. Indicate where the riser will be installed and the sewer outlet to the outside - this is what you need to start from when drawing up the rest of the pipe layout.
3. In each wet room, indicate the planned plumbing fixtures (sinks, taps, toilets, showers), and also indicate the method of connection.
4. Draw the course of the pipeline from the plumbing fixtures to the riser, indicating the connecting elements.
5. Draw up a detailed plan for each residential level of the building.
6. Calculate the length of all communications inside the house up to the point of exit to the outside.

Pipe selection

One of key elements system is a pipeline. The characteristics of pipes for use inside and outside the house are different.

For each type of plumbing fixture, the required pipe width is selected, which is presented in more detail in the table:

Pipe width for each plumbing fixture.

The central riser pipe can be narrow (about 50 mm) for a one-story building without a toilet. Otherwise (if a toilet is connected and the house has at least two floors), a wide riser of up to 10-11 cm is needed.

With the pipe diameter indicated in the table, the following distances to the riser should be observed:

• maximum 1 m from the toilet;
• from other devices maximum 3 m.

If the length to the riser is longer, it is necessary to choose pipes of a larger diameter.

Today, pipes are traditionally made from polypropylene (PP pipes) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC pipes). Let's take a closer look at their characteristics:

Characteristics of materials for the manufacture of sewer pipes.

It is also worth mentioning cast iron pipes - durable, reliable, strong. But they are expensive, can rust from the inside, leading to blockages, and are heavy. In addition, the installation process is quite complicated. Today, pipes made from this material are practically not used, since pipes made from PP or PVC are not inferior in their characteristics.

Pipes for external and internal sewerage.

Riser and drain pipe

The riser is the main element of the wastewater disposal system, through which all sewage is directed outside.

The main nuances when installing a riser:

In the upper part, turning into a drain pipe, the riser provides ventilation for the sewer, provides the necessary pressure in the system, and prevents the occurrence of unpleasant odors. In small one-story buildings, where there is no risk of a large one-time runoff (from the bathtub, toilet and sink), a drain pipe need not be equipped.

Important! The distance between the vent pipe and balconies/windows must be at least 4 m, with an elevation above the roof of at least 0.7 m. Also keep in mind that the ventilation of the house, the vent pipe, and the chimney must be located at different heights.

Fan pipe in the sewerage system.

The riser can be installed in an open or closed way. At the bottom it turns into a horizontal wide pipe - a collector that goes outside.

Laying and connecting pipes

After selecting the pipes, the most labor-intensive, but extremely important stage- laying and distributing the pipeline. For sewer installation, it is better to hire experienced specialists, and if you have the knowledge and skills, take someone as your assistant to speed up the process.

Key points for pipe installation:

Also, when laying an intra-house pipeline, it is important to know where the installation of sewer networks is prohibited:

• in any living rooms Oh;
• in the kitchen;
• in the walls between rooms and on the floor;
• under the ceiling.

Video: installation of in-house sewerage.

Sewage removal

As we indicated earlier, even at the stage of designing a house it is worth determining the location of the riser and the sewer outlet, since already at the stage of laying the foundation it will be necessary to make the corresponding holes. If at the stage of laying the foundation a hole for the sewerage system was not made, it must be made in a ready-made structure.

The sewer outlet is actually its border area, connecting internal communications and outer pipe leading to the treatment plant. The conclusion is arranged in the foundation. If thermal insulation of pipes is not provided, then the outlet depth should be lower than the GPG indicator. A sleeve must also be installed at the junction. When installing external communications, you still need to maintain a slope of 2 cm per 1 m.

Bringing the sewer outside.

External communications

Now you can move on to arranging external communications. They consist of a pipeline and directly a cleaning system - a septic tank or station deep cleaning. There is also a third possible variant- arrangement of ordinary cesspool, but we will not consider it, since it is ineffective for a private home, outdated and unhygienic.

The choice of treatment facility depends on many factors:

• financial capabilities;
• area of ​​territory;
• volume of wastewater.

The location of treatment facilities is strictly regulated and depends on the location of the residential building, neighboring houses, source drinking water. So, the minimum distance to home is:

• 3 m for a deep biotreatment station;
• 5 m for a septic tank with soil filtration;
• 12 m for drop wells;
• 15 m for a cesspool.

Distance of various cleaning devices from the home.

When calculating the required volume of a treatment facility, you need to use the following formula: the number of people multiplied by the average daily amount of water used, multiplied by three (which means three-day settling). For example, for a family of 6 people the volume is: 200*6*3=3600, that is, 3.6 cubic meters.

Septic tank

Septic tanks are a treatment plant that operates on the principles of sedimentation, as well as biological, soil purification. There are many classifications of septic tanks. So, according to the principle of operation, they can be cumulative, with soil purification or deep biopurification. They can be made from different materials (plastic, metal, brick).

Schematic structure of a septic tank.

Storage septic tanks are only suitable for dachas, and for private houses where people live permanently and use more water, they will be ineffective.

Septic tanks with soil filtration are the best option for a country or private home. In such models, waste not only settles, but is purified using special microorganisms. As a result, the device needs to be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner every few years.

Septic tanks with soil filtration cannot be installed in areas with clay soil, as well as in places close occurrence groundwater, since the filtration process will be impossible.

Deep cleaning station

These are highly functional, modern, but expensive treatment facilities. Suitable for installation on any soil, they purify up to 98% of wastewater, and filtered water can be discharged in any way: into the ground, onto the terrain or by gravity.

Construction of a deep cleaning station.

Laying external pipes

Ideally, the pipeline from the outlet from the house to the septic tank should not have any turns. But if you cannot do without it, it must be performed according to the same principles as for internal communication. In addition, wells should be made at turning points to facilitate the cleaning process.

If you are installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands according to the designated scheme, it is extremely important to maintain the installation depth. When calculating it, the main indicator is the soil freezing depth (SFD). This indicator is different in each region. The general rule is: than colder winter, the greater the pipe laying depth should be.

Pipe laying depth.

The minimum laying depth is 0.7-0.8 m. If the pipeline runs in areas of paths and platforms (that is, places that are usually cleared of snow in winter), the laying depth must be increased.

In addition to the GPG indicator, when calculating the depth of pipes, you need to take into account:

• the depth of the entrance to the septic tank (usually 1.5 m).
• pipe material and its strength;
• load on soil and pipes from transport.

If the communications run shallow, it is necessary to insulate them. The same applies to autonomous sewer systems in places with very cold winters.

Insulation of communications.

Step-by-step process for laying an external pipeline:

1. Trenches are dug from the sewerage outlet from the house to the location of the septic tank. The width of the trenches is 60 cm.
2. A sand cushion is placed on the bottom in a layer of 5 cm and compacted.
3. All necessary elements are prepared: pipes, fittings. Starting from the sewer outlet, pipes are laid. The slope must be observed.
4. Silicone sealant is used to connect the pipes.
5. If necessary, pipes are insulated with a special thermal insulation material. Additionally, you can use a heating electric cord.
6. After connecting to the septic tank, the trenches are buried first with a layer of sand (15 cm above the pipe level) and then with soil.

Definitely a building autonomous sewerage with your own hands in a private house - this is a complex and labor-intensive process, because you need to draw up a diagram, determine the depth of installation, and carry out all the work correctly. It is possible that you will need to seek advice or help from experienced specialists. However, the result of the work done is definitely worth it!

Video: How to properly lay sewer pipes (sewer slope).

7023 0 0

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These construction rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the basic requirements of a joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To drain wastewater into the general sewer system, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain makes it necessary to use sewage pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank, allowing the sewerage system to be operated for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the laying can only be changed using connecting parts;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows laying with some bending (up to approximately 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even when negative temperatures, so there is no need to worry about cracks and destruction of pipes.

• The slope of the gasket must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, solid fractions of wastewater will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• For connection horizontal section With a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. The exception is crosses, the bends of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if clogged.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the direction opposite to the blockage.
An oblique tee will guide the cleaning tool in the direction of the drain movement.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the bathtub piping is not hermetically sealed, the overflow of the sewer can lead to flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout their service life. Preferred polymer pipes(PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.);
• In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises it is allowed to embed it in the floor, walls, ducts and shafts;

If possible, it is better to leave pipes accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, I have encountered blockages that could only be cleared by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large fragment of thick glass stuck between the walls of a cast iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

IN wooden floor Polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to embed pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewage system in a private house must include ventilation risers (fan pipes), which are connected to the highest points of the system. The drain pipe is installed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will indeed limit draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from getting into it during a rainstorm.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste removal, the latter is quite important.

• On a roof in use, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The design of the in-house sewage system must provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at turns;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Pitch, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is lower than the hatch of the nearest yard sewerage well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding section of the sewerage system is equipped with a sewer seal or an automatic sewage pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

The connections of elbows and siphons with the sewerage system are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with an inspection or hatch (lid) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height for plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing and dishwashers The diameter of the connected sewerage is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in pipes is unlikely to give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help you avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sections of sewerage in the subfloor, basement or behind false walls. It is better to place risers in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a plasterboard box or wall panels . It is advisable to fill the box sound-absorbing material(usually used in this capacity mineral wool); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foam roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with porous rubber gaskets.

Installation

How to properly assemble a sewer system from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm/m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm/m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The mounting points of a horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the pitch between the clamps, the loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are secured with clamps under the necks of the sockets. This fastening will prevent them from moving under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, onto which large-sized debris (papers, rags, etc.) that get into it can get caught.

The easiest way to cut a pipe is with a grinder. For cutting you can use any abrasive wheel. When working in indoors do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a below-average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inner surface of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will begin to collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will significantly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it liquid soap or any other lubricant water based. Do not use machine oil or other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

When laying hidden (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It really is necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with the height of the system being only 4 meters, significant draft would not arise in it. In addition, all connections between plumbing fixtures and sockets were carefully sealed.

No such luck: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing the toilet, a stream of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum that arose in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bathtub siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for septic tank aromas to enter the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a drain pipe at the top point of the sewer system.

Heating

In regions with warm climates, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. So, in Crimea with its average temperature January at +3C you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the ground. Laying pipes that provide drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people’s buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in warm climates too. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is attached heats up.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces non-target heat loss;
• Because the aluminum tape extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main installation requirement is to leave the end sleeve and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end outside the drain container.
They are aggressive and destructive heat shrink tube for a year or two of operation, but vinyl cable insulation perfectly tolerates long-term contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely complicated. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Laying a sewer system is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage system, then in order to equip it completely autonomous system drainage, it is necessary to lay a network delivering wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to the collection well. Installing a sewer system for a private home is not a quick task, but if you do the work yourself, no serious difficulties should arise. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewerage and a collection well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a drain pipe.

Water supply and sewerage systems are usually designed and installed simultaneously, since the same plumbing and household equipment are connected to them.

The procedure for laying the sewer network:

• Prepare a pipeline design taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of required building materials.
• Purchase pipes, connecting elements and fittings.
• Cut the pipes into lengths in accordance with the project.
• Execute internal wiring and lead the sewer pipe outside.
• Install the drain pipe.
• Lay external drainage.
• Build a collection well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

The indoor sewage system is assembled in such a way that its lowest point is where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to make a mistake with the angle of inclination, you can start assembly from this point.

If you have a project, the connection order is not important, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

• Each device and functional area pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sink - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time, its diameter must be not less than 7.5 cm.
• Since wastewater moves through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
• The connection of the pipes must be sealed and not impede the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, and there should be no roughness or burrs at the junction.
• Right angles should be avoided, as this is where blockages most often form. To perform a turn, it is better to use several elbows with smaller angles.
• It is necessary to prevent backflow from the sewer and the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
• If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be installed.
• Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
• Pipeline units cannot be installed in areas where walls or ceilings pass through.
• Holes for passing pipes through walls and ceilings are cut with a margin; it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
• The connection points to the riser and pipeline turns are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future if they become clogged.
• The riser is located as close as possible to the place where the sewage system is discharged to the outside.

When arranging engineering networks of any kind, you need to find compromises that will allow you to create really working communication, without spending a lot of money. This also applies to the issue of the depth of the sewer system; here it is worth taking into account not only the depth of freezing of the ground, but also the price of excavation work.

When creating the outer part of the sewer, use a closed or open method. In the open version, the pipe is placed directly on the ground (having previously prepared drainage from sand). In closed ones, special “cases” made of reinforced concrete are used.

It is clear that with the help of such protection for pipes their service life is extended. Original covers help protect the pipeline from earth pressure, but you will have to pay a lot for them.

If the issue of saving money comes first, then experts recommend making narrow trenches, this will also enhance the protection of the pipes. You can also protect materials using special spacers between the edges of the ditch. Such parts are made of wood or metal, and are installed every 0.5 - 1 meter.

What depth is needed

Today, the process of arranging sewer systems is constantly being improved. The methods of work that were used 20 years ago are now considered outdated. So, if earlier small booths on the street were used as toilets, today this no longer suits anyone. When you don’t have the desire or time to do all the amenities yourself, you can use the services of special companies that will do everything quickly and efficiently. And if it’s important not to spend a large amount money, then everything can be arranged on your own. The most practical and simple option would be to install a septic tank.

Such a container is mounted in a special pit on the site. The distance from the septic tank to the living space must be at least 5 meters. As for depth, 1.5 meters is considered optimal. So that the septic tank is not damaged by soil pressure or exposure to groundwater They also make special concrete sarcophagi.

Taking into account the installation depth of the septic tank, it is also possible to determine the depth for installing the pipeline. It must be remembered that the section of pipe from the home to the septic tank should be almost straight, without any elbows or turns.

The pipes are installed slightly above the freezing point of the ground, and in general, the depth should not be more than 80 centimeters. The best option the depth will be 50 cm. According to this principle, pipes are laid in places where there are no roads or other areas that are cleared of snow.

How to determine the depth of a pipeline in a private house

The following points need to be taken into account:

• Pipe sizes;
• The slope of the pipe (according to standards is 2-3 cm for each linear meter of pipes);
• Materials used.

If it has been decided to use a septic tank for a country house, then the depth should also be calculated taking into account the characteristics of the terrain, and taking into account the point of exit of the system from the dwelling to the pit with the septic tank.

A mandatory point is the correct determination of the slope of the pipes. If you miss this process, the drains will have difficulty leaving the house, and frequent blockages are also possible.

Inside the building, you can use turns, elbows and various connection points, but in the external pipeline, all these elements should be used only if absolutely necessary.

Why is depth so important?

There are many different issues related to this issue. So, if pipes are installed at the level of soil freezing, then the wastewater will begin to cool, this will lead to blockages and subsequent malfunctions in the sewer system. In such situations, you often have to “endure” until the temperature reaches above zero, and do without drainage all winter. A small number of different connections will also have a positive effect on the operation of the sewer system. So, if you avoid turns in external system, then in the future there will be no need to dismantle and clean the pipes.

When turns are still necessary, it is better to install a special well at these points so that there is always easy access to the problem area of ​​the pipeline. This simple solution will allow you to regularly check the sewer system and, if necessary, clean the pipes.

An important point is also an indicator of the depth of freezing of pipes. To calculate it correctly, you need to take into account regional characteristics. There are even special soil freezing maps that will help solve this issue.

Climatic factor

It is clear that pipeline laying should be carried out taking into account the freezing depth, but how to determine this indicator? In this case, you need to use regulatory standards (SNiP 2.01.01.82). Thanks to this document, you can familiarize yourself with a map of certain areas with soil freezing indicators. So, in the Moscow region this figure will be around 1.4 m, and in the warm region near Sochi the soil freezes at a distance of 80 cm from the ground.

SNiP also recommends that when using pipes with a cross-section not exceeding 500 mm from the climatic characteristics of the area, you need to subtract 0.3 m. If pipes of significant diameters are used in the work, then you need to reduce the laying depth by 50 cm.

An example will help you understand the issue more easily. When pipes with a diameter of 200 mm are installed in one of the regions of the Moscow region, then taking into account SNiP standards, the depth should be 110 cm (140-30). But such calculations are accurate mainly during construction large premises, and small country houses are equipped using a different approach.

The peculiarity of building a country house is that the sewage system here must work by gravity. An important point will be to observe the slope angles of the pipes, because if this is not done, then problems cannot be avoided, especially with a long pipeline.

So, if we take as an example the same house in the Moscow region with a pipe laying depth of 110 cm, and a septic tank that is located 20 meters from the house, then the calculations will be as follows. If you follow the slope recommendations (2-3 centimeters per linear meter), this figure will be at least 40 centimeters. This means that the hole for the pipe in the septic tank should be at a distance of 1.5 meters from the surface of the earth. This takes into account the fact that the suburban area will be perfectly flat, but this is almost unrealistic, so you will also have to take into account the height difference.

If the septic tank is equipped with concrete rings(3 pieces), then its depth should be approximately 2.7 meters ( standard size rings 90 cm). In this case, the useful depth indicator will be half as large (2.7 m - 1.5), i.e. 1.2 m, which is less than one and a half rings.

Application of biological treatment station

When, instead of a septic tank, the owner of the house decides to use a station biological treatment, then the depth level will also be 1.5 m. This means that difficult excavation for digging a pit, and will also need to spend large sums money for the installation of inspection wells, which are needed to maintain modern systems.

All these points will greatly affect the overall cost of installing a sewer system, and will not bring the desired effect. In country houses there is not such a strong load on the pipeline.

There are three more factors that indicate the uselessness of this activity:

1. In residential premises, the temperature of wastewater is kept at room temperature, so frost in the pipeline is removed independently;
2. If people do not live in the house permanently, but only periodically, then during moments of downtime there will simply be nothing to freeze;
3. During the process of treating wastewater, heat also comes from a septic tank or other system, which allows the ice to defrost.

Therefore, laying pipes on great depth not necessarily, especially since it will also cost a lot of money. For the middle part of the system, the recommended depth is 50-70 cm, and then you need to install pipes taking into account the required slope.

If it is possible to connect your system to the central sewer system, then the main point in determining the depth will be the location of the connection point. When pipes are laid below such a point, the performance of the entire system will be in question, because gravity flow is impossible in such cases.

How to solve the problem with gravity flow

Today, experts offer two ways to help solve this issue:

• Installation of sewage pumps. Such equipment is used in places that are previously located below the level of the central system. At this point, it must be taken into account that the sewer system will now be dependent on electricity, which brings a lot of inconvenience in areas remote from cities, where the supply of electricity can hardly be called uninterrupted;
• Insulate the system. To equip a gravity sewer system at shallow depths, you need to use closed version installation For this you will need special trays. Pipes need to be wrapped in special insulating materials or heating elements installed, this will prevent wastewater from freezing.

If an open method is used for installing pipes and insulation is used, then a layer of special material must be waterproofed. If the insulation gets wet, it will quickly lose its ability to maintain the required temperature.

Thermal insulation and heating cables also need to be installed in areas where the winter weather is very harsh. In some places, the level of soil freezing can be up to 10 meters. Of course, there is no need to dig pits of such depth; it is better to take care of the thermal insulation of the pipeline.

Pipe strength

When determining the depth of the pipeline, one cannot ignore such an indicator as the strength of the materials used. Now the most popular option for arranging the external part of the sewer system is PVC pipes.

When choosing pipes for your sewer system, you need to carefully study all the requirements and recommendations of the manufacturers. Outdoors, you need to install pipes with high strength characteristics and the ability to work in an aggressive environment. For internal sewerage, the requirements are not so strict.

If pipes are installed at great depths or there is a road at the top, then only closed method installations and the pipes themselves must be very durable. Two-layer corrugated products based on polyethylene are ideal.

Pipes are most often installed on the street orange color, they will be clearly visible in the ground. During the production of such materials, various additives are added to plastic to increase the strength of the product. This allows the pipes to withstand varying degrees of load. These materials are intended for installation at a depth of up to 3 meters.

There is no talk about depth indoors, but there are also a few tips that will help you do everything in the best possible way. The internal part of the sewer can be equipped with different branches, bends and sharp turns, but it is still better to simplify the sewer system as much as possible, this will give several advantages at once:

• It will be possible to save money when purchasing materials and installing pipes;
• The simplest possible sewage system will work best.

Indoor sewerage must be done so that wastewater flows away smoothly. When drainage is done indoors on the 1st floor, it is better to hide the pipes under the floor. This method is also used to install the system in two-story houses.

When there is a significant difference in height between the inside of the sewer and the outside, then special elbows must be used to connect the pipeline. At the same time, do not forget about the 30-degree elbow; it will ensure smooth drainage of wastewater, which will prevent damage to the pipes.

Excavation work during the construction of an external system

Today, when building a country house, both machine and manual work are used. It is much easier to perform this type of work using special equipment. In such situations, the dimensions of the trench depend on the diameter of the materials and the level of slope. When using 110 mm pipes, the width should be around 600 mm. The required depth is also determined.

When the site is heavily built up and there is no access to special equipment, then all excavation work will have to be done by hand. In this case, the dimensions of the trench needed are the same as in the first case with special equipment. You need to dig a hole 5 centimeters deeper than the required level for installing the pipeline, because you need to leave some space for the sand layer.

How to install pipes outdoors

To install the external part of the sewer, you need to perform work in several stages:

• First, you need to cover the bottom of the dug trench with 50 mm of sand, and then compact the base;
• Next prepare necessary materials(pipes, seals, fittings, etc.);
• You need to start installing pipes from the foundation of the building. In most cases, a special outlet for the pipeline is made during the construction of the foundation. If you were not lucky enough to calculate this during construction, then it is used for this purpose diamond drilling;
• For good indicator density and strength of pipes must be applied silicone grease. To do this, silicone is applied to the smooth end of the material and the whole thing is inserted into a socket with a sealing collar;

• When the pipeline system needs to be turned, smooth bends (special shaped parts) are used; they perform the function of collecting external network;
• With a long system (from 10 meters), special wells are needed at turns; they will allow timely inspection and cleaning of pipes;
• After assembling the pipeline system, you need to check whether the angle of inclination is set correctly and fill the pipes with sand. Before backfilling, you can also do a small check by running water into the sewer. If there are no leaks, then you can fill it up and move on to next stages work;
• You only need to compact the sand that will be on both sides of the pipe; you don’t need to touch anything above the pipes themselves;
• The layer of sand above the pipes should be at least 15 centimeters. After this, the trench is filled with soil up to the very top. By the way, it needs to be poured in a heap, because subsidence will occur over a certain period of time.

Video

Return