Each person strives to protect his site from prying eyes, while making this fence beautiful not only for himself, but also for those around him, while emphasizing the scale of the structure and its significance. That's why, Special attention V suburban construction devoted to the construction of the fence. There are many types of fences, open fences and solid ones.
We will tell you about several types of fences:
Open chain-link fences. Chain-link is a choice for those people who do not want to be closed off from their neighbors by massive fences made of stone or corrugated board. The main advantages of such a fence: good protection from corrosion, light weight, low windage, efficiency and ease of installation. Thanks to all these qualities, a chain-link fence will serve you for many years.
A wooden fence is a great option for those who love natural material. The main advantages of such a fence: low price, ease of installation, but the main disadvantage is the need to tint the fence every season protective varnishes and paints.
Corrugated sheeting is a very popular material for fence construction. Large selection of colors, good corrosion resistance.
Stone and brick fence, very durable and strong, but their construction costs many times more than traditional ones. Stone fence very heavy, so you need a quality one, strong foundation under the fence.
Whatever material your building is made of, any fence needs to be protected from harmful factors, from moisture and wind, for this purpose they came up with fence slats. Thanks to the large selection color scheme, fence slats will harmoniously fit into your fence.
The most common fence slats.
U-shaped plank.
IN Lately Fence slats, or U-shaped slats, have become very popular. Due to their low cost and ease of installation, more and more clients of our company are purchasing them when ordering fences and components. Even if the fence has already been built, you can always purchase fence slats separately and install them yourself without any problems, giving your fence a visual completeness. Planks can be made standard sizes, and according to individual sketches based on your imagination. U-shaped strips are not only decorative, but also additionally protect the end of the metal sheet from moisture. The strips are attached with colored rivets or are made with a folded internal fold, which allows you to simply snap the U-shaped strip onto the fence.
How to attach a U-shaped bar to a fence?
U-shaped fence slats are very easy to attach. There are several ways to install them:
1. The plank is initially manufactured with internal edges that are not completely rolled. During installation, the cap strip is forced onto the upper edge of the sheet and is held in place by the straightened inner edges.
Pros: fast and easy
Cons: the strip can be easily removed, the inner edges scratch the corrugated sheet coating
2. The plank is made with completely wrapped inner edges. During installation, it easily fits onto the top edge of the sheet. Subsequently, small holes are made and with the help of a riveter and colored rivets it is securely attached to the corrugated sheet
Pros: the slats will be securely fastened
Cons: needs to be used additional tool and buy rivets
False pillar.
A good combination of price and scale of the structure is the use of brick or stone pillars in fences made of corrugated sheets, but this option remains relatively expensive and difficult to install. Our company offers an inexpensive and simple solution. Metal false fence posts. This new product is made of metal with a coating that imitates stone or brickwork. The metal coating (PVDF) is very durable and practically does not fade, and the realistic design creates the effect of real stone pillars. False pillars can also be made according to your individual sketches; this is very important when ordering corner pillars or pillars from entrance gate when it is necessary to take into account the individuality of the fence. False fence posts are very easy to install anywhere on an existing fence, just mark the perimeter symmetrically and screw them to the metal fence joists using roofing screws. The use of such pillars is quite wide; when using them on both sides, you can create the effect of a volumetric pillar, and using wider false pillars at the gate will create the effect of a stone pillar. Excellent use of metal with this coating and a guarantee of durability strip foundation, serves the use of a parapet. It is made according to the width of the “ribbon” and protects it from water flowing down the fence, creating an imitation of masonry.
The parapet is mounted on the foundation and removes moisture from the fence masonry. Exists big choice types of planks for the foundation, and thanks to the color range of polymer metals, the parapets can be matched to the color of the main composition.
Pillars made of brick and concrete are a high-quality and durable structure, but on one condition, if you protect them from precipitation. Water in microcracks in concrete expands with temperature changes, and over time can destroy even the strongest structure. To protect the posts, you need to use post covers. They will remove moisture from the post and fit harmoniously into your fence.
We will tell you in this article how to fasten a European picket fence to a fence, how to properly fasten a metal picket fence, and what kind of fasteners are best used to mount the picket fence to the joists:
How to properly attach a picket fence
Let's start from the beginning 🙂 What factors determine one or another method of attaching a picket fence:
1. The picket fence is always fastened STRICTLY from the front side
It is very important not to confuse the front and reverse side metal picket profile (especially in cases where a European picket fence is used that is the same on both sides: galvanized or double-sided coated).
2. Correct fastening metal picket fence to the logs depends on the type of Euro picket fence profile.
Metal picket fences, depending on the manufacturer, can have various types of profiles. The most common is the U-shaped picket fence, there is also a semicircular profile (its fastening is the same as that of the U-shaped one) and M-shaped view profile.
Below we will look correct fastening all listed types of European picket fence profiles.
Fastening the M-shaped picket fence
M-shaped picket fence is attached in the middle of the profile. This is an outdated type of Euro picket fence with a significant drawback: the “wings” of the slats remain loose and will play in gusts of wind. Also, due to this method of fastening, the substructure of a fence made of M-shaped metal picket fence will have minimal rigidity because at the fastening points there is a single thickness of metal and the result is a weak geometric diagonal resistance of the fence section.
M-shaped metal picket profile for a fence
Attaching an M-shaped picket fence to the joists
Fastening U-shaped and semicircular picket fences
Principles of fastening Semicircular and U-shaped profile metal picket fence do not differ from each other. In both cases, fastening must be done to the side edges of the planks where due to rolling double thickness metal (an unrolled picket fence is dangerous and we do not recommend its use at all).
Semicircular and U-shaped
European picket fence profiles
There are 2 ways to attach a semicircular and U-shaped metal picket fence to the logs:
1. The method is less reliable but more economical. The plank is fastened 1 piece per lag in a checkerboard pattern:
1 Method of fastening U-shaped and semicircular picket fences (economical)
2. The method is more reliable but less economical. The fastening of the plank is made in 2 pieces for each joist - we always recommend that Clients use exactly this method of fastening the Euro picket fence, because he is the most reliable:
2 Method of fastening U-shaped and semicircular picket fences (reliable)
How to fasten a picket fence, types of fasteners
To attach a metal picket fence to the joists of the fence substructure, you can use different kinds fasteners TPK Metal Roofing Center offers its Clients the following most popular:
Self-tapping screws 5.5*19 for roofing with a 6-sided head for an 8mm bit
Roofing screws with a diameter of 5.5 are designed for installation in metal, as indicated by the frequent thread and enlarged drill part. When screwing in the self-tapping screw, the rubber self-vulcanizes, and thereby completely prevents water from entering the drilled hole. The tip in the form of a drill allows you to work with material up to 2.5 mm thick without preliminary preparation of holes.
Diameter (mm): 5.5
Length (mm): 19
Type: Roofing
Color: According to RAL catalog
Fastening the picket fence to roofing screws 5.5*19
Pros:
+ convenient and quick to install with a screwdriver;
+ the most reliable mounting option;
Minuses:
– the cost of the self-tapping screw is higher alternative options;
– visually noticeable on the finished fence;
Self-tapping screws PShS or “seeds” 4.2*16 or 4.2*19 for a Phillips screwdriver
Self-tapping screws with a hemispherical head and a press washer (PShS) are designed for fastening a variety of products and materials to metal frames, steel sheets up to 2 mm thick without pre-drilling and up to 6 mm thick with pre-drilling. Galvanized tip - drill. The press washer located under the screw head provides additional fastening strength and resistance to increased mechanical loads. Zinc coating provides long term service and corrosion protection.
Diameter (mm): 4.2
Length (mm): 16 or 19
Color: According to RAL catalog
Fastening the picket fence with PShS 4.2*16 self-tapping screws
Pros:
+ low cost of self-tapping screw;
+ visually almost invisible on the finished fence;
Minuses:
– complexity and inconvenience of fastening (when drilling a picket fence and a ferrous metal joist);
Blind rivets 3.2*8 (aluminum/steel)
Painted blind rivet 3.2*8 is used to connect thin metal sheets, fastening to substructures. The closed bead consists of an aluminum sleeve with a standard bead and a steel rod. Before installing the rivet, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole with a drill corresponding to the diameter of the rivet. During the installation process, the rod pulls the sleeve along with it, which allows the parts to be fastened to be tightly connected. The excess rod is bitten off.
Diameter (mm): 3.2
Length (mm): 8
Color: According to RAL catalog
If you are renovating and the time has come for the ceiling, including in a room with high humidity(bathroom, toilet), then you can use the rack option. Such a ceiling is not susceptible to fungus, is not destroyed by rust and dampness, is securely fastened, allows the installation of any lamps and is easily processed using detergents and disinfectants. In addition, rack and pinion systems are easy on your income and can be installed by yourself. Like any suspended structures, this option does not require preliminary preparations surfaces that he will decorate. We will try to dwell in more detail on how to attach slatted ceiling, and consider some of the nuances associated with installation that are recommended to be known.
What is needed when installing a slatted ceiling
To mount the slatted ceiling with your own hands, you should first prepare the required materials and tools so that the installation takes place without unnecessary hiccups. This is a ceiling kit consisting of:
- panels;
- stringers;
- profile;
- suspension elements.
- perforator;
- pliers;
- dowels or screws;
- metal scissors;
- tape measure and ruler;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- marker or pencil.
Return to contents
Applying markings for slatted ceilings
The panel is inserted into the groove of the stringer until it clicks. This means that the rack edge is tightly fixed to the tire tongue. If the last panels do not fit (wrong size), they must be trimmed.
Everything is simple - deep markings are applied along the entire length using a knife, a perpendicular cut is made on the parts to be removed, and the unnecessary piece is broken off by bending and straightening.
The edge panels are then tucked with the cut sides into the wall profiles, and the other edges are installed on the stringer tongues.
To make the work more convenient, the installation of cut panels occurs next to last, and the latter are made 15 mm smaller than all the others.
Also one more point.
- installation of all panels was carried out with their factory in wall profile diagonally. And the latter require first shifting to one side with maximum adjustment of the first edge into the profile, then inserting the second edge, and only then are they placed in the desired position. With this method, both ends will be positioned equally relative to the wall. Next they are fixed on the supporting rails.
It is carried out using metal profiles, less often on a wooden frame
The most common type of design for attaching plasterboard to the ceiling is P113. Basically, as we discussed earlier, the starting profile is PN 28*27 and PP 60*27.
It would seem a simple ceiling, but more and more often it is carried out with errors and violations of technology. As a result, cracks appear on the plasterboard ceiling and other troubles.
What points should you pay attention to when installing drywall on the ceiling yourself or when accepting work from repair teams?
A few words about the acceptance of plasterboard ceilings. The ceiling design should be adopted in stages:
- Correct installation of the drywall frame
- Compliance with the design (or idea) of laying low-current and power wiring.
- If it fits soundproofing material, then this stage must be controlled.
- Careful sealing of drywall joints.
What to visually pay attention to before sealing with putty:
- Are the plasterboard sheets securely attached to the frame?
- Self-tapping screws should not push through the cardboard. It is correct if they are deepened by no more than 1mm.
- There should be no cracks, torn cardboard, swelling or peeling, or broken corners.
Back to the basics of attaching drywall.
Fastening drywall. Direct suspension. Installation errors
To attach direct hangers to the load-bearing base, the developer clearly states in the documentation that a metal anchor dowel is used. Photo of the table below.
The nylon dowel-nail (6*40) is used only for attaching the guide profile to the walls.
I conducted an experiment especially for this review.
Secure the direct hanger using nylon dowels 
And he loaded it, pulled the suspension down with pliers. 
With a slight load, one of the dowels was pulled out by 4mm. 
When attaching a direct suspension using a wedge anchor, you can hang on it with all your weight. It won't move! 
What happens if you violate the technology for installing drywall and attaching hangers using nylon dowel-nails?
Let’s remember which ones, now it’s not difficult to understand that over time the dowel will sag or a nail will come out. This will cause the frame to sag and cracks to appear on the plasterboard ceiling.
Fix them cosmetics It’s unlikely to work; the frame for the drywall will need to be fixed.
It is also worth noting the side fire safety, with a seemingly insignificant violation of technology and the use of a fastener unit not intended for this purpose.
If a fire occurs, the nylon dowel will melt and the nail, loaded with the weight of the drywall, will fly out of it, which will lead to the destruction of the frame and the collapse of the ceiling.
Do not allow non-professionals to install and fasten drywall in your apartment. Accept work carefully and step by step. And if you are renovating your apartment yourself, read Remontofil, there are still many secrets ahead. For example, . What is it and how to install it correctly.
A wall lined with plasterboard does not require additional leveling. This makes it possible to paint it immediately. By the way, painting on the usual concrete surface will be expensive. The surface will have to be leveled with putty and sanded. If traces of paint remain, and this is very typical for old buildings, for example from the time of Khrushchev, then it is required additional training which will take a lot of time. That's why people prefer drywall.
Plasterboard decoration
The difficulty for marking is the door and windows. And here, many who have not yet had time to read this article before the renovation begins, often make the same mistake - they cut out a sheet of drywall so that it fits flush with the edge of the window on the wall. You can't attach it like that.
How should it be fastened? On large sheets drywall will have to cut out part of the window opening. In this case, the sheet is positioned vertically, and the cutout is U-shaped, only the letter “P” seems to lie on its side. By connecting two sheets of drywall together you will get the correct rectangular hole. Of course, this leads to increased material consumption, but these are the installation rules.
Fastening diagram - red lines show what is unacceptable to do If possible, start one of the corners with a single sheet, this will reduce material consumption. But it is not convenient to mount it this way in all cases due to the layout of the apartment. Another one important detail– do not attach drywall up to 10 cm wide. This will create difficulties if attached to the profile with a screwdriver.
It is better that the part is cut at least 30 cm wide. This can be easily planned if there is another one below the window additional detail this width. A rectangle with the same parameters, accordingly, will be located at the top, and cut rectangular holes for a window, it will be easier, since they are smaller in width.
The diagram will become even more complicated if the height determined on the wall exceeds the long part of the sheet. In this situation, cutting will have to be complicated by arranging the parts in a checkerboard pattern. This will change something for the profile as well.
Profile preparation
Proceed to marking the frame from the profile only after determining the location and cutting of the drywall sheets. Now think about where to place the racks and other structural details. The step between them should be from 60 to 120 cm.
If the ceilings are high and the length of the plasterboard sheet is not enough for installation on this surface, then an additional profile for horizontal joints will be required. It is not necessary to make horizontal jumpers if the height of the sheet does not exceed the height of the room. Consider the location of additional racks.
Wall mount Marking the position of the profile is carried out first on the floor, then using a plumb line to find the projection on the ceiling. Pay attention to quality measuring instruments, if your level is not accurate, the ceiling line will be at an angle.
A line is marked on the floor along which the rest of the markings are made. The drywall should not touch the wall. Also, consider bookmarking mineral wool. If the dimensions of the room allow it, then it is better to install it. After all, this is additional sound and thermal insulation.
Vertical lines on the side surfaces are made using a vertical level. The perimeter closes at the top of the ceiling. Be sure to stick dichtung on the profile. This German name means duct tape for sound insulation. The fact is that the metal parts of the profile rattle against the wall every time a car passes near the house.
Start of installation
The fastener is selected depending on the material. The wall could be, say, shingles, wood, concrete or brick. When working with wooden base, different fasteners are used than when building a wall on concrete. If the concrete is strong, then it is permissible to use BDM 6X40 dowels for quick installation on a plastered surface. brick wall It’s worth taking 6X60, for a fragile wall - 8X80. Regular wood screws are worth using for this wall as well.
Cladding with insulation How often do you need to fasten a metal profile? It is better to use intervals of at least 40 cm. If mistakes were made during marking, it is better to correct them before installation. Otherwise, the ugly corner of the wall will remain forever not at a right angle.
However, there are so uneven walls that they have significant large depressions or bulges. You will have to take this into account when using gaskets. Carry out markings with even wooden planks or rulers, which will reveal the defect before installation. At the end of this work, the profile is installed under the window sill. This is done at the end of installation of the frame contour.
Fastening the frame
A special part called P-shka really resembles this letter. It is sold in the form of a small metal strip with holes. When the vertical profile has not yet been installed, this strip of metal is brought from behind and secured to the wall with screws. To prevent wall rattling, dichtung is placed under the part. Those who neglect the importance of this recommendation may regret it later.
An example of wall cladding with a window Where the U-profile fastening is already present, the remaining frame parts are brought in. Vertical profile it will go in easily, because the P-shka still looks like a flat strip. Its side parts will be folded in later. The edges of the part are raised using an auxiliary cord.
The mount has side parts that need to be held in place. correct position. These parts are secured with a special long nail. All this needs to be mounted so that the stand is slightly concave and pressed against the wall. If this is not taken into account, the surface will turn out to be curved.
Next you will need small screws called fleas. Their length does not exceed 1 cm. These parts vertical stand attached to the P-shki part. The limiter can be removed earlier. This is meticulous work, on the quality of which much depends. For the sake of this fastening, the holes that are visible on the sides were made on the P-shki parts.
If the master made a mistake somewhere with the position of the rack, it is too late to correct it. It all depends on the accuracy and care of screwing the flea screws. An erroneous hole cannot be remade or corrected.
Master class from a specialist:
Working with sheets
There must be a gap between the floor, ceiling and gypsum board. From below it is 1 cm, from above 5 mm. Why is this necessary? For better sound insulation. The material will not receive vibration from interfloor partitions and transmit it to them.
Cut the sheets so that the larger side runs vertically. It happens that the ceiling or floor is not level enough. Moreover, apartment residents may not be aware of this. But this bevel will have to be taken into account when cutting a sheet of drywall so that there are no places where it is pressed into the floor. Self-tapping screws for fastening are 25 mm long. This is considered optimal. After installation, the walls are finished.
Fastening gypsum boards with glue
In some situations where the room is no different large area, making a frame for further fastening sheets of drywall would be an unjustified measure. It will steal a few centimeters usable area, which is sometimes very critical. In this case, you can use another method of attaching drywall to the wall - with glue or foam.
All you need to get started is special knife, which you will use to cut the material and adhesive. His choice depends on several factors, the size of the plasterboard sheet that will be glued to the wall and financial capabilities. In one case or another, you need to apply part of the adhesive to the desired piece of drywall and press it to the prepared surface. The joints between the sheets are sealed with putty.
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