Correct flooring on wooden joists: options for laying on different bases. Floor installation in a wooden house: materials and technology

The installation of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time and will need to be replaced. Using some impregnations, you can protect the wood from rotting. Chemical methods of protection are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, the wooden structure impregnated chemicals, cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that wood is chosen precisely because of this indicator, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between layers. The wooden covering should be secured using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

A subfloor refers to certain bases that form an ideal surface for laying a finished floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed at the floor covering.

In wooden buildings, subfloors are made using three methods:

wooden on joists;
pouring concrete;
use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on joists

In a wooden house, the installation of a subfloor is no different from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only peculiarity is how the logs are attached:

There is no need to attach the joists to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the base or foundation grillage, retreating a couple of centimeters from all walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11cm on all sides of the log.
Before laying the base, you should lay the bottom trim, which is made from a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. There is no need to rigidly strengthen them with strapping. You just need to fix them so that they do not wobble while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a distance of several centimeters from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before this, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. You must first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out the dimensions required for the groove in the wood, which will be required for the supporting function.

Important: It is recommended to add about 2 cm to further expand the joists. It must be remembered that the laying of the logs and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two logs are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, a choice is made of the lag section and the effective load. For small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, for heavy loads - 15x20, for medium loads - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load, if the beams have a small cross-section, then it is advisable to provide cross-sectional parameters of 30x40cm.

Installation of subfloors on joists

When the installation is done, you will need to do standard installation. It is performed in several stages:

It is necessary to secure the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the joists from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial block with boards that are wider than the joists. They will need to be nailed either along or below the joists.
The boards should be laid. They need to be placed on the cranial block, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it extends onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation and use a stapler for fastening.
Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
Vapor barrier. They are laid in the same way as waterproofing.
Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to punch counter-battens along the joist on top of the vapor barrier.
Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. The logs must be separated from the wall by a 2cm gap. Insulation will then be placed in them.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Video description

Learn more about floor insulation in a wooden house in this video:

Plywood subfloors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

On a cement base. You will need to provide a horizontal and level base or use leveling posts.
Attach to joists. The main thing is to position the logs correctly to ensure that the joint of the sheet falls on them. The joists must be positioned so that the top surface provides a straight line. The insulation and sound insulation are then removed from them.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers - minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.

Before final installation begins, all debris and dust should be removed from the base. If possible, you should also do priming - primer treatment. The plywood must be secured with glue, and the head of the screw must be recessed.

Concrete floor

Like a rough and finishing floor in a wooden house, concrete option occurs less frequently than others. A concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved using thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is smoother and more durable. Concrete floors in a wooden house are also chosen because they are better protected from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

Lay along the joists.
Lay on the ground.
A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
Colas less than 11 cm should be driven into the ground so that gravel can be poured over them. After this, it should be compacted and the pegs removed.
Next, sand is poured.
Then they lay large film made of polyethylene, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equal to the height of the cord. Next, concrete is poured onto the prepared surface.
Concrete is leveled along the slats.
Next, the concrete should be covered with film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is necessary to occasionally spray the mass with water.
After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing logs

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the logs. Therefore, when installing floors in a wooden house, they should be protected from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

A preparation with a bioprotective composition protects wood from mold, rot, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such products will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

environmental friendliness;
slight odor;
no allergens.

The preparations must be applied before the installation of the floor in a wooden house begins.

Leave-in antiseptic

An excellent option if the city has high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high levels of precipitation, temperature changes, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time-consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 layers. After the work is completed, the color of the wood will become pistachio.

Traditional methods

Folk remedies for treating lags:

Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration into the wood structure and embalming this remedy perfectly protects the material.
Resin. Birch resin will help against beetles, fungi and rotting. Its only drawback is its vulnerability to fire.
Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too much strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

Rough coating.
Thermal and waterproofing layers.
Finish floor.
Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finished floor from in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 steps mentioned above and start working on the finished floor.

To make a finished floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is erected in 3 stages:

The logs are laid so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
The board needs to be secured closer to the wall.
Next, you should use a hammer and a block so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. Using a self-tapping screw, each joist is fastened through a ridge.

Important! If you plan to change the floor in the future, you need to use a simple fastening option - all floorboards should be secured from above to the joists using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

Each of us dreams of building a spacious house, in solitude with nature. And of course this house should be made of natural and natural materials. A wooden house is perfect for a quiet and relaxing stay. When building a wooden house, the main thing is Special attention pay attention to the floor structure.

In order not to disturb the harmony, beauty and naturalness, the floors should also be made of wood. Many people know that houses made of wood have a healing and beneficial effect.

The floor structure must be reliable and have effective protection against heat loss from the house. Today we will look at floor designs in a wooden house.

Floor characteristics

Regardless of what the house is built from, the floor must have the following characteristics:

It should also be taken into account that the load on the floor, first or basement floor should be calculated from an average value of 2100 Newtons per 1 square meter.

Types of floors

For wooden houses, the two most common types of floors used are concrete and wood. Now we will look at the pros and cons of each.

Concrete floor. The advantages include the speed of the process, especially if you have a concrete mixer. Insignificant price, which is the cost of sand and cement.

The ability to do the work with your own hands, without professional skills. With all these advantages, we get a finished, flat surface a month after the concrete screed has completely dried.

The disadvantages include the large mass of the floor, which puts pressure on the foundation. Not suitable for every type of foundation; it requires careful calculation of the load on the foundation and soil.

And secondly, since our house is made of wood, vibrations of the walls occur (narrowing - expansion), this has a bad effect on the concrete surface, stress zones, chips, and cracks appear.

Wooden floor. The advantages include the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly material. Floors made of wood in a wooden house are harmony, naturalness and sophistication.

No special equipment is required when performing the work. The disadvantages are slightly greater than those of concrete floors. The main disadvantage is the cost (high).

The second drawback is the complexity of the installation technology; assistants will be required. It may be necessary to involve specialists, which means additional costs. When laying a finished floor, it is difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Strict adherence to the technology of the floor installation process.

Installation of a wooden floor in a wooden house

We have described the pros and cons of two types of floors. With a concrete floor everything is clear. Moreover, a wooden house should have wooden floor.

Not edged board or sheets of multilayer plywood, chipboard, are usually used for arranging a subfloor. And if it is used for arranging a finished floor, then a decorative floor covering is placed on top of it.

Glued laminated timber or seam board is used as a finished floor. After installation they paint or varnish.

Floor designs

Flooring is divided into two types.

The structure of such a floor looks like this:

Rough floor.
Waterproofing.
Insulation.
Air bag.
Finish floor.
Decorative floor covering.

Foundation preparation

Choosing a foundation is always a difficult and controversial choice. Pricing policies vary. Since a wooden house is a lightweight structure up to 14-17 tons, the foundation should be selected accordingly.

Some people place houses directly on the ground or add crushed stone with a layer of 10-20 cm. This is done in places where there is no groundwater, and the earth does not creep.

2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt, polyethylene film) are laid on the ground, then logs are laid. This type of foundation is suitable for small seasonal houses with a single floor.

The most common is, of course, a concrete foundation. He can be belt type, more cheap way or poured in one piece (slab), a more expensive method.

Concrete foundations are usually reinforced with a reinforcement belt. This is a long-term and reliable foundation for both a wooden and brick house.

The next option is support posts. The site on which the house is going to stand is cleared of soil to a depth of approximately 50 cm. The formation of the cushion is carried out using a layer of sand and gravel.

Each layer should be approximately 20-30 cm. We compact everything thoroughly. Then we lay out columns of brick or asbestos pipes filled with concrete.

The pillars are placed around the perimeter and inside the house at intervals of 90-100 cm, maintaining one level. We lay waterproofing on the pillars, then a 3 cm board around the entire perimeter - this is the lining. The beams are placed on it.

And in Lately Pile foundations have become popular. Everyone just buys ready-made piles of a given diameter, they are screwed into the ground to one level.

After this, a frame for the walls and floor is built. This type of foundation is ideal for places where groundwater or moving soil is close, since the piles can be buried to different depths and make the foundation strong and reliable.

Single-layer floor installation

The choice of foundation is yours. Supports, piles, soil or concrete surface on which I lay thick beams, they must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

It is advisable to buy beams from coniferous trees. As was said above, everything wooden elements treated with special compounds.

The logs are usually laid on top of the beams at the locations of the supports, the main thing is to maintain the same level.

The distance between the lags should be 60-80 cm if you have a floor board 4 cm thick or more. And if the thickness of the board is 3 cm, then the distance is best to choose 50-60 cm.

We lay a plank floor on the logs placed at one level. We place the first board from the wall at a distance of 10-15 mm. This gap should be left for natural ventilation.

Subsequently, this hole will be closed with a plinth. To create decorative beauty, it is better to lay floor boards parallel to the rays of light from the window. We use nails to fasten the boards.

Purchase nails taking into account that their length should be twice as long as the thickness of the boards. Drive nails at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don't forget to recess the hats.

Then, when all the boards are secured, all the holes from the caps are sealed with wood putty. After the putty has dried, you can begin painting and varnish work. Installation of skirting boards is done around the entire perimeter.

A permanent plinth is nailed to the two opposite walls, and a temporary plinth is nailed to the other two opposite walls, which have gaps left, with a gap of 10 mm from the wall. In 2-3 weeks, due to natural convection, the floor will completely dry out, and temporary skirting boards can be replaced with permanent ones.

As mentioned above, this type of floor is used in unheated, small houses. And in winter, the ground under the house freezes and the pillars become deformed, which directly affects the functionality of the floor.

To eliminate this effect as much as possible, the underground space is covered with slag, leaving 4-6 cm to the floor for an air cushion.

Double floor device

This floor has the structure of a multi-layer cake. The design of the beams and joists remains as described above. Only in the lower part of the lag we fill the bars along the entire length and on both sides.

These bars are called cranial bars. A subfloor is attached on top of these bars. The floor is usually made of unedged boards 2-4 cm thick. All wooden elements must be processed by special means. Boards should be fastened with minimal gaps.

After the subfloor is completely assembled, a vapor barrier and waterproofing materials. This is often a 200 micron thick polyethylene film.

But other materials can also be used, such as parchment paper, roofing felt and modern membrane films. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the seams are taped with construction tape.

Then insulation is placed on top of the waterproofing layer. In the past, mixtures were actively used: clay + sawdust or clay + straw. Expanded clay has proven itself well, rodents do not eat it, it does not lose its shape and volume.

But in the age of high technology, the market offers a large selection of materials for insulation. Ecowool, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. This is not the entire list, but only those that are popular.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main difference is in price and characteristics. The choice of insulation is up to you. After you have purchased the insulation, lay it between the joists.

We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, leaving 3-5 cm to the bottom edge of the finished floor, as natural ventilation of the subfloor.

If you plan to have a “warm floor” system, then pipes or wires should be laid on top of the insulation. They should not be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

We lay the finished floor on top of this “pie”. Tongue and groove boards are ideal for finishing a finished floor. The principle of assembling the boards is similar to laminate, each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and fastening occurs with nails at an angle.

If in the first method we talked about the ventilation gap, which is located along the walls, then here we will talk about the ventilation gap, which is located in two opposite corners of the room.

These gaps can have the shape of a square, a circle measuring about 5 cm. After the floor is covered with all the boards, the ventilation gaps are decorated with grilles.

The gratings must be moved out by 5 mm. above the floor level so that liquid does not get into the insulation. The tongue and groove board is sanded and varnished. On top of this floor finishing coat may not be used. But if you wish, you can lay carpet, linoleum, laminate and others.

Remember that ventilation holes should also be left in the base. They close only in winter.

Conclusion

We examined all the nuances of the floor structure in a wooden house. I hope our article will help you find the right solution and approach to arranging the floor.

We should not forget that a tree is natural material, which requires care and treatment with special means.

The flooring process requires care, accuracy and adherence to instructions. You can do the installation work yourself.

Heat loss is not always associated with the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material; very often the reason for this is different temperatures in the basement and on the first floor of the house. Thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house prevents heat leakage, thereby reducing heating costs. High-quality floor insulation in a wooden house can be done with making the right choice isolation.

This is what an insulated floor looks like in section

Why is floor insulation necessary in wooden houses?

It is very rare to find wooden houses with high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, ensuring a comfortable stay even in severe frosts. In most cases, cold floors are a fairly common phenomenon in wooden buildings.

This happens according to the laws of physics from the school course, according to which heavier cold air accumulates below. Lack of thermal insulation on the floor or disruption of the insulation process causes the formation of cold bridges between dried boards.

This phenomenon contributes to the loss of almost a quarter of thermal resources.

Video description

The advisability of floor insulation is clearly shown in the video:

Based on this, we can say with confidence that an insulated wooden floor eliminates the following problems:

Increased humidity in the room.

Low temperature inside the building.

Accumulation of condensation, which causes mold to form.

The appearance of harmful microorganisms.

Formation of rot inside wood structures.

The combination of these factors encourages the homeowner to start insulating a wooden floor, and to do the work according to all the rules.

Laying thermal insulation in interfloor ceilings

The result of the actions taken will be a comfortable and cozy stay, and most importantly, leakage of thermal resources and corresponding costs will be reduced. Thermal insulation can be carried out not only in old buildings, but also in buildings being commissioned.

How to choose the right thermal insulation material

Owners of private buildings often wonder whether floor insulation is needed in a wooden house, and which one is better to purchase to get a greater effect. The selection of material for this purpose can be called a rather crucial moment, so it is important to adhere to the following:

Weight of materials. Owners of private wooden houses do not make much sense to take this characteristic into account, since their houses themselves do not create a large load on the foundation strip or cushion. It is necessary to know the mass of material only when working in multi-storey buildings, where too heavy insulation will put additional stress on the floor slabs.

Moisture resistance. Most often, this criterion is looked at when finishing “wet” rooms - a bathroom or kitchen. You should also take this into account when building a house in latitudes with a humid climate.

Operational life. This parameter directly determines how many times and after what time the homeowner will carry out work related to repairing or replacing the floor.

The packaging of high-quality and certified materials always indicates their full characteristics

Thermal conductivity index. How less value this parameter, the more heat will be retained in the house.

The degree of complexity of laying the material. Every master dreams of simplified installation work Therefore, the simpler the installation of insulation, the better.

Availability of a basement or ground floor. If there is an unheated room under the insulated floor, then it is important to choose thicker thermal insulation.

Ceiling height. Laying insulation is always accompanied by a decrease usable space, therefore, in rooms with low ceilings it is better to opt for thinner insulation.

Features of use. Permanent or temporary residence also determines the thickness of the insulation.

Fire resistance. It is very important that the thermal insulation material is resistant to fire or at least does not support combustion. In addition, it should not emit harmful gases when heated.

In our catalog, you can find a list of companies specializing in finishing materials and works, among the houses presented at the exhibition is Low-Rise Country.

Popular types of thermal insulation materials

Ease of use is one of the the most important criteria selection of materials. Some of them are hard and can only be used on flat surfaces, while others are successfully used for thermal insulation of areas complex shape. Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, you should choose the most suitable type of insulation.

When choosing a material, you must take into account the conditions under which it will have to be laid.

Insulation in rolls

Insulation materials are supplied in this form, the base of which is balsa wood or mineral wool. physical characteristics These materials (softness and reduced density) make it possible to lay thermal insulation not only on a perfectly flat surface without much difficulty. Roll insulation can be laid with the smallest number of joints, which increases the degree of thermal insulation. In most cases, this type of insulation is susceptible to high humidity, so when installing it you should take care of waterproofing. Sometimes rolled materials have an outer foil layer that protects the material from moisture.

Rolls are easy to unwind on a flat surface

Plate materials

These are lightweight insulation slabs or mats that cannot change shape during installation. They are characterized by low thermal conductivity and low weight. Easily mounted on surfaces with minor errors.

The slabs can also be laid alone

Liquid polymer thermal insulation

This type is a special composition that, when exposed to air, forms a hard foam structure. With the help of such thermal insulation, all hard to reach places and errors. Among the well-known representatives of this type of insulation is penoizol, which is applied to the surface from a spray can using a special sprayer. The only drawback of liquid insulation is its high price.

Liquid insulation sticks to any surface

Loose thermal insulation

This type of insulation is represented by bulk materials such as slag, expanded clay or sawdust. They fill the required volume quite tightly, and installation is possible both on a pre-arranged base and on ordinary soil.

When using such insulation, you will have to install additional beams for finishing coating and, as a result, raise the floor level.

Choosing a method of insulation flooring made of wood, you should be guided by the efficiency of using the material and the benefits in material terms.

Least labor costs on flat surfaces

Popular materials for insulating wood flooring

Usually, you don’t have to search for a long time for the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house - construction stores have a large selection of different materials and all you have to do is choose the right one, based on their characteristics.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

In addition to good thermal insulation, one of the main characteristics of these materials is their vapor permeability, so it is most effective to use them for insulating the floor of the first floor or basement. Under normal conditions in mid-latitudes, it is enough to use slabs 5-13 cm thick. If you take thinner slabs, then over time the savings will be offset by increased heating costs.

Working with foam plastic

Mineral wool

The properties of this material do not allow its use in floor screeds on the ground. And here wooden floors, insulated with mineral wool, can boast of increased service life. It is recommended to insulate the floor between the basement and the first floor with a material whose thickness is 20-30 cm. More high floors insulated with materials 10-15 cm thick.

Video description

The procedure for working with mineral wool in the video:

Ecowool

The material is produced from shredded waste paper and cardboard packaging with further impregnation with fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool cannot be used for insulation on the ground due to its low density, but for floors on beams the material is considered the best option. In this case, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house can be 20-25 cm.

Ecowool backfill

Foamed polymers

The main difference is high price compared to other insulation materials. The use of this insulation on the floor and floor beams cannot be considered effective. Therefore, it is best to use foamed polymer thermal insulation materials for thin-layer structures under floor coverings.

Before installing the finished floor

Foam glass

The material is obtained by foaming quartz sand. The mass of such insulation is much less than that of dry wood. The main advantages of the material include good vapor barrier properties, the ability to withstand heavy loads without changing shape or loss of quality characteristics, as well as good noise insulation.

Foam glass is produced in slabs that can withstand the weight of a heavy-duty vehicle, or in granules for backfilling wooden floors.

The standard density of the material is 150 kg/m³, allowing it to be used for insulating the basement floor and ceilings located above. In this case, the thickness of the thermal insulation should be 18 cm and 15 cm, respectively.

Foam glass slabs

Expanded clay

Recently, this insulation has begun to be used much less frequently due to the appearance of more effective thermal insulation materials on the construction market. Some characteristics require an increase in the thermal insulation layer by 4-6 times compared to stone wool or ecowool. The ceiling on beams cannot always accommodate such a volume of insulation.

Expanded clay needs a lot of space

Fibrolite

This type of insulation is obtained by mixing cement powder, liquid glass and wood wool. The advantage of such thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house is the ability to dampen noise of various origins, as well as significant heat retention when gluing this type of insulation to the load-bearing walls of the house. The high hygroscopicity of the material limits its use in floors on the ground, but it is ideal for insulating floors along beams and for creating multi-layer pies of wooden structures. The insulation of the floors between the basement and the first floor is carried out with a layer of 15 cm, for upper floors 10 cm of insulation is enough.

Fiberboard boards

Sawdust

Such insulation cannot be called the most effective way to insulate residential premises, since to reduce heat loss it is necessary to lay a layer at least 30 cm thick. Therefore, sawdust is most often used in non-residential attic spaces. Recently, sawdust has been used in the production of highly effective thermal insulation and materials with similar characteristics.

Leveling the sawdust layer

Izolon

This thermal insulation, made from polyethylene foam, has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, even with a thickness of 0.2-1 cm. This quality makes the material indispensable for insulating wooden floors. Other advantages include good sound insulation, which makes laying additional sound-proofing layers unnecessary. When using isolon, it is necessary to lay it not end-to-end, but with overlapping strips; the resulting seams are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.

Isolon rolls

Penofol

The material is a new generation of roll insulation. This lightweight and easy-to-use material provides shielding that prevents the dispersion of radiant energy. Heat is retained due to the reflective layer, which makes the material especially popular for insulating floors between floors. Advantages include the ability to withstand heavy loads, low thermal conductivity and easy installation.

The thickness and flexibility of Penefol allows it to be used in difficult places

Comparing the properties and features of use, we can conclude that for wooden elements it is better to choose vapor-permeable materials, and in other cases use high-density insulation.

Procedure for installing thermal insulation

Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general rules for carrying out the work.

Video description

First of all, you need to understand what you can’t do – you can see this clearly in the video:

And the insulation process itself occurs as follows:

First you need to remove the baseboard and remove the old floor. However, you need to be careful not to buy new material.

Open floor beams are inspected for rotten elements that must be replaced. Attach new ones wooden parts It is best to use galvanized self-tapping screws that are not subject to corrosion.

It is best to attach the support beam from below the joist.

The rough flooring is made from unedged boards, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the logs or is 2 cm less than this parameter. The subfloor is not laid closely, and the beams need not be attached to the elements of this covering.

Houses located on plots with high level groundwater, very often suffer from high humidity with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, it is very important to protect floors with roofing felt or glassine. The waterproofing strips are laid overlapping, gluing the joints with tape.

The insulation is laid on top of the finished floor joists. In addition, another layer of waterproofing is required.

To create a ventilation gap, counter-battens are nailed on top of the insulation.

The final stage is laying the new flooring.

Final finishing of the finished floor

Whatever material or technology is used, first of all, you must always remember that a high-quality result can only be obtained if the work technology is strictly followed.

Wooden floors allow you to retain heat in your home using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most widespread throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.

Floors made from high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for installing floors of a different type. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment with just one person.

General principles of wood flooring

Directly genital boards are always laid on joists, but the logs themselves can be laid either on a concrete or even earthen base, or on supports - usually brick, wooden or metal pillars. Rarely, but still used is a technology in which the ends of the joists are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to cover wide spans - logs of a very large cross-section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone...

Installation of wooden floors concrete base practically no different from installing floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of flooring on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the instrument

The chosen method of installing the floor determines what tools you will need for the job. But in any case, you can’t do without:

laser level; as a last resort, you can use a hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
a regular or cross construction bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; a cross level is preferable, as it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
jointer and/or grinder.

The usual carpenter's tools - a square, a small axe, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller - will also not be superfluous.

Floor installation on support pillars

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following “layers” (from bottom to top):

the basis of the entire flooring is logs;
rough (“bottom”) floor;
waterproofing layer;
thermal insulation layer;
directly wooden floor (finish flooring);
finishing floor covering.

This entire multi-layered “sandwich” usually rests on support pillars- concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of brick and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. For columns with a height of up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient; for a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made of at least 1.5x1.5 bricks; for columns up to 1.5 m high, at least 2x2 bricks are laid out.

Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete “nickels”, the area of which exceeds the area cross section columns at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the logs and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN logs with a section of 100...150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are dug in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “pillow” is made, onto which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “penny” be several centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use a laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE OF THE JOINT plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is adjusted according to its level. It is not at all necessary to extend it strictly to the millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building’s basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid “cold bridges”.

Some features of support pillars

It is worth providing in them availability of fastenings for joist beams. Typically, vertical “studs” with threads embedded in 10-20 cm depth are used as such fasteners or anchor bolts– subsequently, through holes are drilled in the logs in appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” the resulting pins, and tightened with nuts and washers. The protruding excess threads are cut off with a grinder.

The side surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane, on which the logs will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster– it will further strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. Lay on the surface of the finished columns 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing felt.

After complete drying and hardening masonry mortar(this takes about a week) you can now lay logs on the finished support pillars.

Laying logs on brick columns

The length of the joists is selected depending on the floor design. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire “sandwich” of the floor lies and is supported solely by posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the joists are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; This design practically eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building settles, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a “floating” floor option, the length of the joists is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise it will be difficult to firmly attach the logs to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into “half-legs” - but the joint must be on the support post and be nailed or (for lag cross-sections up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the logs is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets made of roofing felt!); however, it is much better to place flat pieces of board 25-50 mm thick between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the joist beam. In the case of joint joists, this must be done!

Alignment of logs

After laying the logs on the prepared support pillars, they must be “aligned” according to the level. This is done as follows: using thin wooden spacers the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Spacers are currently used only on the outer support pillars; for now, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; In the case of “floating” floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of tightly laid joists The construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are derived from it; then, if necessary, spacers are installed between the remaining posts and joists. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams must lie tightly on the pillars; in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Subfloor

After laying the joists, a subfloor is made. To do this, a narrow beam (“skull” beam) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side. Untreated boards with a length equal to the distance between the logs are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are completely covered with a vapor barrier film, onto which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof fabric.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing the floor on brick pillars in the underground space ventilation must be provided– forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. A mandatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "produkhi": through holes in or walls located below floor level. Such openings should be located along the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It is imperative to provide for the possibility of shutting off the vents in winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the ventilation openings are covered with a fine-mesh mesh.

When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These holes are closing decorative grilles and should always be open.

How to lay floors correctly

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor will be. If it is intended to be natural, it will require tongue and groove batten(with a lock); if you are laying linoleum or laminate, you can get by with a regular edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE, THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRYED!

Attach the tongue and groove board to the joists

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with the tenon to the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board well to the upper surface of the log. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Final finishing of the laid floor

After laying the floorboards, the floor is ready for finishing, consisting in its grinding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty, made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is to attach the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The sanded surface is painted or coated with varnish, for example, yacht varnish; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or surface of the material. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied; a paint roller and a good respirator are used for the job. If you want to get a matte rather than glossy floor surface, you can use wax or oil.

Currently, environmentally friendly low-rise construction of houses from wood materials is becoming increasingly popular. Traditional log houses made of rounded logs, cottages made of timber, and even houses built from lightweight materials, their owners try to cover with boards or clapboards. To create a microclimate in the home that is closer to nature, the same considerations are used when choosing materials for floors, giving preference to wood as a lighter, but quite durable material.

By virtue of natural origin wood has a fairly low thermal conductivity, but in the Russian climate it still needs additional thermal insulation.

Options

There is a fairly large selection of fillers for insulating interfloor ceilings, floors and ceilings. It can be difficult for an inexperienced builder to understand the properties of this or that insulation, objectively evaluate their advantages and disadvantages, and make the right choice.

The thing is that different heat-insulating materials are more suitable for some operating conditions and less suitable for others. Insulation of such specific rooms as an attic, underground, or veranda requires a special approach, so it is worth studying all the properties of the materials in order to produce insulation as efficiently as possible.

The choice of thermal insulation material is influenced by the following factors:

Humidity. Constant dampness in the room (basements with open ground or insufficient waterproofing of the foundation, bathrooms, winter gardens or home greenhouses) or the likelihood of increased humidity in it (balconies, rooms for drying clothes, bathrooms or steam rooms);
Purpose of the premises. Some types of materials contain certain resins or glues that, for safety reasons, are not suitable for bedrooms or children's rooms.
Possibility of damage by rodents or insects, resistance to fungal attack. Some of the materials are liked by rodents, while others are repellent to them.
Lower and upper temperature limits. Some heat insulators are not resistant to severe frosts, while others lose their properties or become completely deformed and become unusable when subjected to significant heating.

It should be borne in mind that the heat-insulating material must “work both ways” - not only protect the home from low temperatures in winter, but also to maintain a comfortable environment for people and pets in the summer heat.

Not in last resort The choice of insulation and the method of performing thermal insulation are also influenced by the general condition of the house:

age of the building - an old house requires one method, a recently built one requires another;
foundation construction method - on bored or screw piles, on reinforced concrete blocks or on light foundations of shallow depth;
the number of storeys of the building and the area where the work will be performed - whether the floor insulation is being carried out for the 1st or 2nd floor.

From below

In most cases, wooden houses are built with a high base, that is, the height of the subfloor allows for insulation from below. The only exception may be southern regions, where private houses are being built on stable soils using the technology of constructing low-rise buildings on shallow piles. But even there, in most cases, they try to adhere to the traditional construction of houses with a high base.

Otherwise, if the subfloor is not high enough, to insulate the floor of the first floor you will need to remove the floor board to the joists or other supporting structure.

Thus, it is possible to insulate from below with a sufficiently high subfloor for the first floor or insulate the floor of the second floor, which, accordingly, is the ceiling for the first floor.

Carrying out thermal insulation work in the underground is not much more complicated than the same work when insulating the floor of the second floor, but it has a number of features. Before starting work, you need to prepare the place and provide yourself with both minimum comfort and the necessary level of safety.

Most likely, there are no windows in the basement, so first of all you need to take care of sufficient lighting. If there are no stationary lamps, Waterproof portable light sources with a flexible cord of sufficient length should be used.

For the same reason, there is extremely poor natural ventilation in the underground space, and sometimes it is completely absent. Unfortunately, many builders do not take this factor into account, which has an extremely negative impact on labor productivity. Exhaled carbon dioxide is heavier than other gases that make up the atmospheric air, and therefore tends to the bottom.

And since the underground is the lowest point, carbon dioxide accumulates here, disrupts the worker’s full breathing, causes increased fatigue, drowsiness and, in especially severe cases, fainting. That's why it is very important to ensure sufficient supply ventilation from inside the house or from the street.

Of course, while work is being carried out in the basement, it is necessary to remove all things, food and other objects stored there that interfere with the unhindered movement of the repairman.

If there is open ground in the underground, if possible it should be leveled and compacted. IN best case scenario, if the budget allows, pour concrete to a minimum height of 10 cm with reinforcement, thereby significantly reducing the humidity in the underground space. This will significantly extend the service life of both the load-bearing elements of the plinth and the wooden floor structures.

In the absence of natural passive ventilation of the subfloor, it would be a good idea to make small (about 10*10 cm) ventilation vents in the external walls. This will improve the microclimate in the cellar, additionally prevent an increase in humidity and, as a result, avoid mold damage to wooden structures.

Having completed the preparatory work, first of all you need to check the condition of the load-bearing elements - beams, joists, support posts.

Having identified areas of mold damage, thoroughly clean the surface with a spatula, sandpaper(popularly called “skin”), then soak twice with antiseptic solutions. Then soak all accessible wooden elements generously with fire- and bio-protective compounds and dry thoroughly.

If the foundation and plinth are built using concrete or brick (block), these areas must be treated with bitumen mastic to protect them from moisture. If work is carried out on days of high atmospheric humidity, it may be necessary to additionally dry them using heating equipment.

In some cases, a conventional household fan heater will be sufficient, but for large underground spaces, a construction heat gun may be required. In no case Do not use gas or petrol/diesel heat gun , it is permissible to use only an electric one, and it should not be left unattended for safety reasons.

For insulation from below, it is quite inconvenient to carry out work with rolled heat-insulating materials, such as mineral wool or isolon. Moreover, they are not suitable for these purposes. bulk materials– sawdust, expanded clay and the like. Therefore, preference should be given to insulation in sheets - penoplex, polystyrene foam, and so on.

First of all, you should fix the vapor barrier material, in most cases it is plastic film. For underground conditions, it is preferable to choose a film with a thickness of 350 microns, if possible even denser.

It must be secured, ensuring complete adherence with a construction stapler along the joists (beams), taking into account all irregularities, bends and height differences; in places where it sags, additionally secure it along the floor boards. The film fragments must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm over one another, and the edges must be secured with wide adhesive tape. Overlap on the walls and vertical structures– at least 25 cm.

After this, you need to begin installing heat-insulating material in the gaps between the joists. If possible, the fragments of the insulation should be cut so that there are no unnecessary gaps between them and the joists, and the insulation itself does not fall out. If necessary, if the fragment does not hold onto the joists with its edges, it can be temporarily secured with self-tapping screws, and the gap between its edges and the joists can be filled with polyurethane foam.

It should be remembered that metal self-tapping screws have a very high thermal conductivity, so after the construction foam has hardened, they all need to be removed.

Also, after laying the heat-insulating material over the entire surface of the ceiling, all gaps that inevitably arise must be filled with polyurethane foam, and after it has hardened, the protruding excess must be cut off.

After this, to ensure more reliable retention of the heat-insulating material, you need to secure it from below with a light hem. Most economical option- fiberboard sheets, but low-grade plywood, edged boards and a number of other materials are also suitable. You should not use gypsum plasterboard ( plasterboard sheet) due to its high hygroscopicity and fragility.

After completing the filing, you should attach another layer of vapor and waterproofing. You can also use plastic film. In this case, it is permissible to use isolon, folgoizol and other composite materials.

Above

In this case, there are two options for insulation, fundamentally different from one another:

Without dismantling the floor covering. Logs are laid on the old floor, insulation is placed between them and a new floor covering is placed on top.
With dismantling. In this case, the boards are marked, dismantled and removed from the room where they are being repaired. The insulation is installed between the existing joists, then the floor boards are installed back.

In the first case, the floor level is raised - depending on the technology used, by a height of 10 to 25, and in some cases by 30 cm. This method is economically more expensive and reduces the usable volume of the room. But if the budget allows and the ceilings are high enough, this option can significantly reduce the time it takes to complete the work.

In the second case, the floor height remains at the same level, but more labor and time will be required from the builder.

Whatever option is chosen, before starting all work, you need to remove all the furniture from the room, clear the floor of carpet or other covering, and remove the baseboard.

First you need to check the condition of the floor boards. Elements damaged by rotting or affected by mold must be replaced, unstable ones must be fixed. You need to apply primer to old boards. antiseptic impregnations and dry, if necessary, use additional heat sources for this.

As when inspecting the underground space, areas affected by fungus, but remaining strong, must be cleaned down to healthy wood and generously soaked with antiseptics.

Experienced builders recommend for these purposes using a composition that is practical and completely safe for humans and pets, but so unloved by rodents and wood-boring insects - cool solution of ordinary table salt. To prepare it, add salt to hot water until it stops stirring.

The areas of the board that have been previously cleared of mold from the outside are thickly spilled with a hot saline solution. Any gaps found between the boards or cracks in them must be filled with construction foam, leveled on top with oil-based putty or acrylic base. After drying, lay a waterproofing material - plastic film or penofol, and glue the joints with wide tape.

After this, the logs are laid. You should choose a timber made from coniferous wood, the minimum cross-section of which is 50*50mm. However, if the floor of the lower floor is insulated and enhanced thermal insulation is required, then, accordingly, a beam of a larger cross-section is required.

Preferably dried timber without visible deformations (without bending along any axes), chips or other damage. It is important to take into account that there should be a gap of 1 - 2 cm between the insulation and the top board for natural microcirculation of air and humidity compensation, therefore the height of the material for the logs must be calculated with a margin.

As a frame, in addition to timber, it is permissible to use an edged board with a thickness of 50 mm or more of the appropriate width, installed on the edge (the wider side will be located vertically) - in this case, a more rigid fastening of the boards to the floor is required. You may need metal corners with a shelf length of at least half the width of the board: for example, if a board with a cross-section of 50*120 mm is selected for installation on an edge, then the shelf length of the metal corner must be at least 60 mm. The installation step of the corners is no more than 1 meter.

It is strongly not recommended to use unedged materials, since the wane (remnants of bark) on the wood may contain larvae or even adult wood-boring insects, and, unfortunately, it is not always possible to eliminate them with the help of bioprotective impregnations.

Laying should begin from the highest area selected using building level. The lag laying scheme is quite simple. The step must be kept constant - from 50 to 60 cm. It should be kept as horizontal as possible, if necessary, placing hard inserts resistant to moisture and fungus underneath. The logs are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws in increments of 100-120 cm.

Heat-insulating material is placed in the space between the joists. When insulating from above, the choice is no longer limited to sheet insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay plywood of sufficient thickness on the floor rather than boards, then the floor will last even a little longer.

DIY work algorithm

Insulation from above with the dismantling of floor boards implies that the floor boards have been checked, their condition is satisfactory and they do not need to be replaced.

Before dismantling, the boards must be marked, indicating their order and orientation, since in the case of using tongue-and-groove boards or with a tongue-and-groove fastening, an error in orientation will disrupt their mutual fastening. The top side will be indicated by the surface on which the marking is applied.

Dismantling must be done with the utmost care, without damaging the material. If the boards are fastened with self-tapping screws, they all need to be unscrewed and only then lifted one at a time, starting from the edge of the room.

Finding fastening points with self-tapping screws can create some difficulty old paint if the floor has been painted. A simple method will help with this - using a magnet, perhaps from an old speaker (speaker). Although today is more powerful Neodymium magnet relatively inexpensive. Use it to find the head of the screw, use a spatula to remove the paint, and unscrew the screw.

Dismantling is performed a little differently if the boards are nailed. Under no circumstances should you try to remove nails with pliers or a nail puller; this will only lead to damage to the board. Nail heads can also be easily found with a magnet; these places are marked with a marker.

Builders of the “old school” use an ax to dismantle boards: they carefully wedge it between the joist and the board, without damaging either one, and lift the edge of the board with a slight rocking.

You can use a pry bar or a flat-tipped nail gun. There is no need to try to lift the entire board at once, wedging it with an ax in only one place, as this may cause the wood to split.

Raise the board at each attachment point on small height, then walk along the board again, repeating this operation. When the edge is already noticeably raised, place additional support under the tool and lift the entire board. Wherein It is important to ensure that the tongue or tongue of the board is not damaged.

Old nails need to be knocked out with a hammer from the point side, and when the nail head rises above the board, remove it using tongs or pliers. Having removed the boards, the builder opens the joists and, if their condition is satisfactory, lays plastic film using a construction stapler, fastens the joints with tape and installs heat-insulating material.

In both cases, with open joists, they should be impregnated with fire and bioprotective substances and thoroughly dried before laying the insulation.

If bulk material is used - be it sawdust, wood concrete granules, expanded clay or any other, it is necessary to carefully level the layer of insulating material, avoiding too loose laying or, conversely, excessive compaction, and fill all irregularities and cracks. In case of use roll materials you need to try to cut in accordance with the geometry of the space between the joists, avoid tears and creasing, and do not leave voids.

It should be remembered that many rolled heat-insulating materials, when wet, lose their properties and turn from a heat insulator into a heat conductor. When working with sheet material you need to try to cut as accurately as possible, avoid bending the sheets, fill gaps and voids with polyurethane foam.

Upon completion of laying the heat insulator, regardless of how hygroscopic the material is, you should again lay polyethylene or other moisture-proofing film, and after that install the boards.

Materials for thermal insulation

Modern market offers enough wide choose materials for thermal insulation, and to the inexperienced home handyman it can be difficult to choose the most suitable insulation for wooden floors.

In addition to price, each type of material has its own advantages, and some have obvious disadvantages:

Penoplex. Sheet insulation, produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses. Quite durable and at the same time easily processed material with high heat-insulating characteristics, resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For ease of installation, it is available in a tongue-and-groove version. Afraid of high temperatures and organic solvents. Unattractive to rodents and insects.
Styrofoam. Unlike its older brother - penoplex, it is softer, less resistant to moisture, and can crumble when cut. At the same time, it has a much lower density and, as a result, a slightly greater thermal insulation ability. Unlike penoplex and EPS, it does not contain styrene, that is, it is somewhat safer when used in living rooms.

EPPS– extruded polystyrene foam. Essentially, this is the same penoplex, but with slight differences in production technology. In terms of characteristics, it is in no way inferior to or superior to it.
Sawdust. This bulk material is very cheap, in some cases even free, since it is actually a production waste. One of the most environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans and pets. It should be remembered that sawdust in pure form it cannot be laid, otherwise an invasion of rodents and insects cannot be avoided. Sawdust must be mixed with cement or clay, and fire retardant, antiseptic and antifungal solutions must be added. Sawdust is intolerant to dampness and, without proper treatment and moisture insulation, is easily susceptible to rotting and mold. Over time they cake, losing their insulating qualities.
Expanded clay. Light porous bulk material made of baked clay, which is why it is absolutely harmless. Resistant to high temperatures. Expanded clay does not have closed pores, which is why it is hygroscopic and requires high-quality waterproofing.

Penofol. It is foamed polyethylene with aluminum foil applied to one side (less often on both sides). It has high moisture resistance and is noticeably inferior to foam plastic in terms of thermal insulation characteristics. Very sensitive to even slight heat. Not damaged by fungus, not susceptible to rotting. When using, one feature should be taken into account - the foil side should be facing the warm room.
Izospan. High quality material for vapor and waterproofing. Used as protection against moisture, it allows wooden structures to “breathe”, that is, it does not interfere with air exchange with the environment. Flammable Resistant to fungal attack.
Izolon. Foamed polyethylene without foil. Due to the nature of production, it is not produced with a thickness greater than 7 mm, therefore it has no practical use as a heat insulator. At the same time, this is a high-quality waterproofing material with some sound insulating properties. Sensitive to high temperatures, resistant to fungus, not damaged by rodents or insects.

Ecowool. Extrusion material based on cellulose. Rarely used in private housing construction, since application requires specialized equipment and trained personnel. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a contractor to, in order to reduce costs, violate the recipe of the original composition, as a result of which this material with high thermal insulation characteristics begins to evaporate toxic substances over time. environment.
Polyurethane foam, like cellulose ecowool, requires specialized equipment for application. No harmful substances are used in the composition. When cured, it forms closed pores, which eliminates any evaporation of substances into the environment. It is not subject to recipe violations on the part of the contractor. Frost- and heat-resistant, not susceptible to rotting, mold, or fungal attack. It has high noise and heat insulating characteristics.
Mineral wool. One of the most undemanding and easy to use heat-insulating materials. It is afraid of moisture, but after drying it restores its properties. Thanks to the filling with mineral chips, it eliminates damage by rodents or insects, and the absence of organic fillers prevents rotting or mold damage. Easily wrinkled material, therefore requires careful handling

When choosing an insulating material, be sure to read the instructions for use attached to it. This document describes in detail the characteristics: thermal conductivity, permissible temperature range, humidity, and so on.

Typical errors

In some cases, builders, relying on the moisture resistance of the material declared by the manufacturer, neglect additional waterproofing. When sudden temperature changes occur in a high-humidity environment, condensation can form, as does water flowing directly from a room through cracks in the floor. When water freezes, it causes cracking or rupture of pores in the material, which sharply reduces the thermal insulation qualities.

When insulating the floor of the first floor with polystyrene foam, the material is sometimes left exposed. The fact is that mice often gnaw on polystyrene foam, taking its crumbs and “insulating” their holes with it. This approach helps to preserve the vapor barrier layer and, if necessary, update the heat insulation sheets without any problems.

It happens that a builder saves on tape and leaves the overlap of plastic film unsecured. Moisture contained in the air penetrates through the edges of the film into mineral wool and it gets damp. That's why It is important to ensure that workers comply with the work technology.

Examples of successful designs

Consider the following:

A classic “pie” with insulation from above using a screed under the finished floor.

Installation of logs “staggered”, filling with expanded clay on top of the film, covering with plywood.

High-quality filling of gaps between joists and sheets with construction foam.
Laying slabs in the space between the beams on top of a layer of isospan.

Application wide boards, mounted on edge.
Double-sided waterproofing with mineral wool.