Predecessors of cabbage. Basic principles of crop rotation and mixed plantings

Crop rotation of vegetable crops is the necessary alternation of plants grown in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row! This, of course, is ideal, and not every summer resident can realize such a utopian vision. However, “Gardener and Ogorodnik” will try to help you in this difficult matter.

We have prepared certainly useful diagrams and tables for you, which you, as usual, can download using the links at the end of the article or under the pictures. For now, let's get down to theory.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops: table for busy gardeners

In general, establishing crop rotation is not a quick task and requires a certain amount of time. This is due to the fact that when alternating crops, it is necessary to take into account quite a few factors: the plant’s need for nutrition, belonging to a biological family, soil contamination by pests, etc. For those who do not have enough time for lengthy calculations and construction of diagrams, we offer a quick and easy solution.

"Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting" will help you navigate the choice of plants for a particular garden bed, without going into details. The only thing you need to remember when using it is that the crop can return to its original place after at least 3 to 4 years.

Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting

As can be seen from this pivot table crop rotation, there are the best predecessors of vegetable crops, acceptable and bad:

The best predecessors of tomatoes- cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and green manure. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, herbs, beets, cabbage of late and medium varieties. After other crops, it is no longer worth planting tomatoes in the garden.

Wonderful predecessors of cabbage– cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. But then comes the division. Good for late and middle varieties early potatoes and carrots, and for early and cauliflower It is better to sow after green manure and onions and garlic.

Good predecessors of onion and garlic(which you do not grow for greens) - cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and green manure.

The best predecessors of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin etc. - onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early and cauliflower.

Good predecessors of peas– any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and squash.

Excellent predecessors of carrots– cabbage, potatoes, herbs and spices, cucumbers, zucchini and green manure.

The best predecessors of pepper and eggplant– cucumbers, onions, carrots, green manure, etc.

Good beet predecessors– spices and herbs, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.

Wonderful predecessors of potatoes– zucchini, garlic, legumes, green manure, etc.

It seems that you managed to figure out how the table works without much difficulty. So, the “hurries” leave us, and we move on.

Crop rotation of vegetables in the beds: necessity or whim

For those summer residents who are not limited in time, “Gardener and Ogorodnik” invites them to “dig deeper.” First, let's look at the objective reasons that speak of the undoubted practical benefits and need for crop rotation in the country.

Causes of soil fatigue:

1. Accumulation of pests and pathogens.
If for a long time plant, for example, potatoes in the same place, then the number of wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and late blight pathogens will inevitably increase in this area. The same is true for other crops. By growing the same vegetables all the time in the same beds, you run the risk of getting onion flies on one, cabbage clubroot on another, carrot flea beetles on another, etc. What can we say about root and leaf nematodes, rot and other “minor” troubles.

2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks of the need vegetable crop rotation– these are inevitable toxic root secretions - colins. Many vegetable crops are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, the harvests will become worse and worse every year, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. For example, spinach and beets are most susceptible to their root secretions. Parsley, radish, radishes, celery, carrots and pumpkin crops. The least affected crops are corn, leeks and legumes. A lot of toxins remain in tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.

3. Nutritional needs.
Stock nutrients on the site is not unlimited. Each plant has its own nutrient requirements. Some cultures are less demanding, while others are more demanding. Therefore, it is very important to know “who is who” in order to track the condition of a particular bed. So, if you plant related plants in the same place, then in a few years they will “suck” out of it everything necessary for growth, depleting the supply of some elements. As a result, productivity will fall.

All these factors together give rise to the so-called soil fatigue. We can and should fight this. The most effective remedy- this is the same crop rotation of vegetables at your dacha.

Crop rotation in the garden: combating soil depletion

To prevent the horrors described above from becoming a reality at your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and adhere to three simple rules of crop rotation.

1. Rule of botany.
You should never plant not just the same plant one after another, but even related crops belonging to the same species! This is the very first, most important and important thing.
Judge for yourself:
- Their diseases and pests are most often the same. Therefore, the first reason will not be eliminated.
- Their toxins are also similar. Colins of one plant are processed only by cultures of another botanical species. This means that the second reason will remain in place.
- The nutrition and need for microelements in crops of the same family are also almost identical. It turns out that the third reason is here to stay.
Conclusion: Crop rotation of vegetables within the same botanical family is useless!

2. Rule of time.
The longer the culture does not return, the better!
The minimum period after which the plant can be returned to its original place is 3 years. For carrots, parsley, beets, and cucumbers, it is better to increase it to 4-5 years. Cabbage, when clubroot appears, can only be returned after 6-7 years. If there is an opportunity (there is enough space, many crops are grown), then feel free to increase these numbers, it will only get better.
Otherwise, the same three causes of soil fatigue will again not be eliminated.

3. Rule of fertility.
When determining the order of crop rotation in a crop rotation, remember about nutrition and plants that help enrich the soil with the necessary elements.
All crops use nutrients for their growth, some more, some less. Plants that are very demanding on nutrition should not be planted one after another.
Some crops improve the fertile layer by the very fact of their growth in this place. These include almost all legumes. They not only loosen the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, plants of other species have similar qualities, in which root system deep, powerful and developed.
Others contain essential substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to be known and, if possible, composted. Although this is a separate topic, we will still give a few examples.

In accordance with this rule, we advise you, when drawing up the order of alternating crops in a crop rotation, to pay attention not only to the botanical species and timing, but also to the nutritional requirements and improvement of fertility. Thus:
- after each plant that requires nutrition, on next year it is worth planting legumes or seriously fertilizing the garden bed,
- after a less demanding vegetable, you can plant a more demanding one, moderately fertilizing the soil.

To make it more convenient to navigate when alternating crops in crop rotation, “Gardener and Gardener” has prepared a special memo for you.

Memo: “What to consider when alternating vegetable crops in crop rotation”

Vegetable crop rotation scheme at the dacha

Giving any options for crop rotation schemes is a waste of time. Each gardener’s dacha plot is unique, which means that few standard crop rotation plans will suit anyone. And it’s not even about the size of the plot or the number of beds. It’s just that the vegetable crops cultivated are different for everyone. Some people plant a lot of cabbage of different types, while others literally 5-6 plants. Some people plant 5 acres of potatoes, while for others 5 square meters is enough. meters. Some people plant many crops in a greenhouse, while others have a greenhouse only for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more advisable for each summer resident to independently plan crop rotation and draw up individual schemes for himself.

We outlined the basic principles that should be adhered to above. Now let's step back from the ideal and plunge into reality. Next, "Gardener and Ogorodnik" offers you a list of practical tips on arranging crop rotation.

1. Human memory is not limitless. Remembering what kind of vegetable was sitting in this garden bed five years ago is an impossible task for most summer residents. Therefore, the first piece of advice is not to be lazy and draw up a plan of your plot with all the beds in a notebook. On this plan, you will mark the planted crops every year. Those with a lot of free time can immediately mark plants that are likely to be planted a year, two or three in advance. The rest, to make up full map Crop rotation will take 5-6 years (according to the average time of crop return).

2. During the sowing process, decide and write down in your notebook how much space each crop takes up (a third of the bed, a quarter, half, a whole, etc.). This is necessary so that in the following years you can “fold” suitable landings like pieces of a mosaic. After all, it is not necessary to sow the entire garden bed with one crop. If you can plant cabbage and greens after the onions, do so - half a bed of one, half a bed of the second. Just remember to check the compatibility of neighboring plants.

3. If it is not possible to change the place of a certain culture (well, this also happens), do not despair. Just add a “neighbor” from another family to her garden bed (don’t forget to check the compatibility table). Thus, self-poisoning plants (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (Accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place completely calmly and without loss in yield for up to 3 years. After all, neighbors of another species are good at processing and absorbing their destructive toxins. Mixed planting works best when it is truly mixed. That is, not half a bed of beets and half a bed of carrots, but a row of this, a row of that. Or better yet, fill the row spaces with the same beans.

Here, perhaps, is all the information you need to organize correct and effective crop rotation at your dacha. The table will help you quickly decide on the crop to be sown. Reminder - plan everything in advance. Practical advice- solve problems that arise during the process. Have a good harvest!

I plan to sow carrots in the spring in the area where cucumbers grew this year. Tell me, is it possible to do this and what should be the predecessors of carrots when planting?

Juicy orange root vegetables in fertile soil grow evenly and large, but if there are not enough nutrients, good harvest It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to remove carrots. This situation usually happens if the rules of crop rotation are not followed on the site and the vegetable is grown in the same bed from year to year. To avoid this phenomenon, you should swap crops, and to do this you need to know which predecessors are the best for planting carrots.

After what garden plants can carrots be planted?

It is better to sow carrots in areas where they were previously grown:

potato;
tomatoes;
salad.

Former cucumber beds are also suitable for root crops, but not earlier than two years later. After cucumbers, a lot of organic matter remains in the soil, and carrots do not tolerate excess of it and often “burn out” even in the initial stages.

Which precursors should you avoid?

The least suitable area is the bed after parsley. This is due to the fact that parsley creates in the soil during its growing season comfortable conditions for the emergence and reproduction of pathogenic bacteria. As a result, root crops begin to hurt, grow small, crooked, with dry pulp, and become defenseless against pests.

If it turns out that the area after the parsley is the only free one in the entire garden, you can try to disinfect it by spilling it with a strong solution of potassium permanganate immediately before sowing the carrots. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that it will be possible to destroy all bacteria, but at least the carrots will have a chance.

What should you plant after the carrots?

If it is not advisable to sow an orange root crop after cucumbers, then the opposite effect only gives a positive result. Planting cucumbers in place of carrots with the addition of manure will restore the balance of nutrients in the soil, and after two years it will be possible to grow carrots in this place again.

The next year, after carrots, peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, and cabbage are planted.

How to protect vegetables from carrot flies?

Wherever carrots are planted, they will be found everywhere by the smell that the root vegetables emit. And then you can say goodbye to sweet roots, because this pest loves them so much that it can “appropriate” at least half of the harvest for itself.

In order to repel insects, experienced gardeners combined plantings are used. So, you can scare away flies by alternating carrot and onion (or garlic) beds. Tobacco dust also gives good results. It is mixed with ash and scattered between the rows once a week.

Rules for crop rotation in the garden - video

Ecology of life. Estate: Crop rotation of vegetable crops is the necessary alternation of plants grown in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row!

We have prepared certainly useful diagrams and tables for you, which you, as usual, can download from the link at the end of the article. For now, let's get down to theory.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops: table for busy gardeners

“Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting” will help you navigate the choice of plants for a particular garden bed, without going into details. The only thing you need to remember when using it is that the crop can return to its original place after at least 3 to 4 years.

Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting

As can be seen from this summary table of crop rotation, there are the best predecessors of vegetable crops, acceptable and bad:

The best predecessors of tomatoes are cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and green manure. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, herbs, beets, late and medium-sized cabbage. After other crops, it is no longer worth planting tomatoes in the garden.

Wonderful predecessors of cabbage are cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. But then comes the division. For late and medium varieties, early potatoes and carrots are good, and for early and cauliflower it is better to sow after green manure and onions and garlic.

Good predecessors of onions and garlic (which you do not grow for greens) are cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and green manure.

The best predecessors of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, etc. are onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early cabbage and cauliflower.

Good predecessors of peas are any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and squash.

Excellent predecessors of carrots are cabbage, potatoes, herbs and spices, cucumbers, zucchini and green manure.

The best predecessors of peppers and eggplants are cucumbers, onions, carrots, green manure, etc.

Good predecessors of beets are spices and herbs, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.

Wonderful predecessors of potatoes are zucchini, garlic, legumes, green manure, etc.

It seems that you managed to figure out how the table works without much difficulty. So, the “hurries” leave us, and we move on.

Crop rotation of vegetables in the beds: necessity or whim

Causes of soil fatigue:

1. Accumulation of pests and pathogens.
If, for example, potatoes are planted in the same place for a long time, then the number of wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and late blight pathogens will inevitably increase in this area. The same is true for other crops. By growing the same vegetables all the time in the same beds, you run the risk of getting onion flies on one, cabbage clubroot on another, carrot flea beetles on another, etc. What can we say about root and leaf nematodes, rot and other “minor” troubles.

2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks of the need for vegetable crop rotation is the inevitable toxic root exudates - colins. Many vegetable crops are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, the harvests will become worse and worse every year, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. For example, spinach and beets are most susceptible to their root secretions. Parsley, radish, radishes, celery, carrots and pumpkin crops react a little more easily to them. The least affected crops are corn, leeks and legumes. A lot of toxins remain in tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.

3. Nutritional needs.
The supply of nutrients on the site is not unlimited. Each plant has its own nutrient requirements. Some cultures are less demanding, while others are more demanding. Therefore, it is very important to know “who is who” in order to track the condition of a particular bed. So, if you plant related plants in the same place, then in a few years they will “suck” out of it everything necessary for growth, depleting the supply of some elements. As a result, productivity will fall.

All these factors together give rise to the so-called soil fatigue. We can and should fight this. The most effective remedy is this very crop rotation of vegetables at your dacha.

Crop rotation in the garden: combating soil depletion

To prevent the horrors described above from becoming a reality at your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and adhere to three simple rules of crop rotation.

3. Rule of fertility.
When determining the order of crop rotation in a crop rotation, remember about nutrition and plants that help enrich the soil with the necessary elements.
All crops use nutrients for their growth, some more, some less. Plants that are very demanding on nutrition should not be planted one after another.
Some crops improve the fertile layer by the very fact of their growth in this place. These include almost all legumes. They not only loosen the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, plants of other species, whose root systems are deep, powerful and developed, also have similar qualities.
Others contain essential substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to be known and, if possible, composted. Although this is a separate topic, we will still give a few examples.

In accordance with this rule, we advise you, when drawing up the order of alternating crops in a crop rotation, to pay attention not only to the botanical species and timing, but also to the nutritional requirements and improvement of fertility. Thus:
- after each plant that requires nutrition, next year it is worth planting legumes or seriously fertilizing the garden bed,
- after a less demanding vegetable, you can plant a more demanding one, moderately fertilizing the soil.

To make it more convenient to navigate when alternating crops in crop rotation, “Gardener and Gardener” has prepared a special memo for you.

Memo: “What to consider when alternating vegetable crops in crop rotation”

Vegetable crop rotation scheme at the dacha

Giving any options for crop rotation schemes is a waste of time. Each gardener’s dacha plot is unique, which means that few standard crop rotation plans will suit anyone. And it’s not even about the size of the plot or the number of beds. It’s just that the vegetable crops that are cultivated are different for everyone. Some people plant a lot of cabbage of different types, while others literally 5-6 plants. Some people plant 5 acres of potatoes, while for others 5 square meters is enough. meters. Some people plant many crops in a greenhouse, while others have a greenhouse only for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more advisable for each summer resident to independently plan crop rotation and draw up individual schemes for himself.

We outlined the basic principles that should be adhered to above. Now let's step back from the ideal and plunge into reality. Next, “Gardener and Ogorodnik” offers you a list of practical tips on arranging crop rotation.

Crop rotation at a summer cottage: practical advice

1. Human memory is not limitless. Remembering what kind of vegetable was sitting in this garden bed five years ago is an impossible task for most summer residents. Therefore, the first piece of advice is not to be lazy and draw up a plan of your plot with all the beds in a notebook. On this plan, you will mark the planted crops every year. Those with a lot of free time can immediately mark plants that are likely to be planted a year, two or three in advance. For the rest, it will take 5-6 years to draw up a complete crop rotation map (according to the average time of crop return).

2. During the sowing process, decide and write down in your notebook how much space each crop takes up.(a third of the bed, a quarter, half, a whole, etc.). This is necessary so that in the following years you can “put together” suitable plantings, like pieces of a mosaic. After all, it is not necessary to sow the entire garden bed with one crop. If you can plant cabbage and greens after the onions, do so - half a bed of one, half a bed of the second. Just remember to check the compatibility of neighboring plants.

3. If it is not possible to change the place of some culture(well, this happens too), don’t despair. Just add a “neighbor” from another family to her garden bed (don’t forget to check the compatibility table). Thus, self-poisoning plants (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (Accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place completely calmly and without loss in yield for up to 3 years. After all, neighbors of another species are good at processing and absorbing their destructive toxins. Mixed planting works best when it is truly mixed. That is, not half a bed of beets and half a bed of carrots, but a row of this, a row of that. Or better yet, fill the row spaces with the same beans.

Here, perhaps, is all the information you need to organize correct and effective crop rotation at your dacha. The table will help you quickly decide on the crop to be sown. Reminder - plan everything in advance. Practical advice – to solve problems that arise in the process. Have a good harvest! published

Every summer resident knows well that if you plant the same crops in one place for several years in a row, then even under seemingly identical conditions of care, every year they become more and more frail and bear fruit less and less. This phenomenon is caused by soil depletion, which in turn is explained by a number of factors.

The importance of proper crop planning

The first is that pathogens and all kinds of pests accumulate in the soil. For example, potatoes are known to be a favorite delicacy Colorado beetles. If the plantation of this crop does not change location for several years, the pest does not need to migrate in search of food - after wintering, it immediately finds itself in favorable conditions and immediately begins to destroy the plant. In addition to the Colorado potato beetle, planting potatoes contributes to the accumulation of late blight pathogens in the soil, as well as the larvae of click beetles and moths.

With other cultures the situation develops according to the same pattern. In a plot planted with the same crop, the number of those pests will increase from year to year., which are dangerous specifically for it and, accordingly, it will be more and more difficult for the plant to withstand such an invasion. Cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, and lettuce especially suffer from this factor.

The second is an increase in the concentration of harmful substances released by the roots of a particular crop (the so-called colins) and which are toxic to this crop itself. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more resistant (carrots, pumpkin, radishes, parsley), and others almost do not react to colins (legumes, leeks, corn). Besides, different plants allocate different quantities such harmful substances, for example, are especially abundant in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.

The third is the depletion of nutrients in the soil. Each crop has its own set of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that it is precisely these that such a plant will try to extract from the soil. For example, if cabbage really needs potassium, then after planting it, less and less of this element will remain in the soil, while, say, after radishes, potassium reserves are not depleted so rapidly.

It is easy to understand that the situation can be corrected by correctly alternating the crops planted on the site from year to year. This procedure is called crop rotation and is a whole science. However, if you don’t have time to engage in complex theoretical preparation, it is enough to learn a few fundamental rules, and the harvest on your plot will always be equally abundant.

Rule #1

Not only the same crop, but also close relatives (representatives of the same species) cannot be planted one after another for several years in a row, since they, as a rule, have common pests, react the same to toxins and consume the same composition of microelements.

Rule #2

The average period during which the soil must rest after a certain crop is two years(one year is usually not enough for full recovery), but for some plants this period is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to their original place for at least 4 years, but for cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but it is not advisable to decrease them.

Rule #3

Plants have the ability not only to consume microelements from the soil, but also to enrich it with certain useful substances and properties. Therefore, correct rotation of crops can not only preserve the elements that are especially necessary for the plant, but also improve the composition and structure of the soil without additional procedures. For example, legumes loosen the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat saturate the soil with calcium, datura grass with phosphorus, tobacco with potassium, stinging nettle- iron. Knowing these simple rules and taking into account the need various types crops in certain microelements, you can easily plan crops for several years in advance. By the way, the indicated properties of the listed crops can be used more fully by placing them in compost after harvesting.

The same rule applies to pests. There are crops that are not only resistant to certain diseases, but also repel their pathogens. For example, aphids do not tolerate plants such as garlic or tobacco. The Colorado potato beetle is afraid of thyme. If you plant such orderlies after plants exposed to these pests, there is a good opportunity to expel them from the site, freeing it up for planting in subsequent years.

Rule #4

The need of plants for nutrients is not the same. Crops that are too demanding on soil composition should not be planted one after the other. It is more correct to plant legumes in the garden after such a crop or add the necessary layer of fertilizers.

Thus, correct rotation of crops will avoid unilateral depletion of the same elements in the soil, increasing the concentration in it certain types pests and pathogenic bacteria, as well as uneven load on the soil of the same root system of plants.

Another reason that makes it necessary to rotate crops on a site is weed control. There are plants that are sensitive to such proximity (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, parsnips), it is better to plant them after those crops that leave a minimum amount of weed. Such plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, and cabbage.

What to plant next

So, we have found out that crop rotation is a necessary and quite economical technique that allows you to maintain soil fertility and ensure a uniformly high yield. But since the need different cultures in microelements, fertilizers and other conditions is different, knowledge general rules and principles does not always allow you to correctly determine which plants to alternate in what sequence on your site.

Did you know? There are two simple rules drawing up the order of landings. Firstly, you should not alternate representatives of the same family. For example, both tomatoes and potatoes are nightshades; both carrots and dill are umbelliferous. Secondly, plants in which the upper part is eaten should be alternated with those in which the root is valuable (“tops and roots”). You must understand that this is a rather primitive rule, and it should be used only if more accurate information could not be found for one reason or another.

What to plant next in the beds can be found out from numerous tables developed by agronomists and amateurs. For those who don't want to study theory and are looking for simple answers to questions about specific crops, below are some tips on which vegetables can be planted after which.

What can you plant after cabbage?

Cabbage is susceptible to many pests and diseases, therefore, when answering the question of what to plant after cabbage next year, any gardener will confidently say: not cabbage, even if we are talking about other types of cabbage! This is the worst option imaginable, but if there is no other option, the soil must be very well fertilized with compost.

Cabbage as a predecessor is not suitable for crops such as radish, rutabaga and turnips, since these plants are favorite food for the same pests.

It is ideal to plant onions or garlic after cabbage. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, and tomatoes are also allowed. Cabbage also gets along well with these vegetables in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged by diseases and harmful insects. But you shouldn’t plant cabbage next to tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes.
Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, as well as annual herbs are considered good predecessors of cabbage.

What to plant after garlic

It is not recommended to plant garlic, as well as onions, for a long time in the same place, or alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic in the garden are potatoes, especially early ripening ones. Tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets or cabbage are also acceptable options.

But it is best to plant annual herbs after garlic and onions, which are intended to restore the soil for later use, replenish its mineral reserves and destroy weeds. Mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, rye, and rapeseed work well in this role.

What to plant after cucumbers

Cucumbers are much more demanding on soil composition than many other crops. Before planting, the soil is usually especially carefully fertilized with both organic matter and mineral supplements. It follows that after cucumbers next year you should plant something less picky. For example, cabbage, which also requires fertile soil, is absolutely not suitable for these purposes. They feel good in an area where cucumbers and various root vegetables grew - beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil, legumes can be planted after the cucumbers and only after that other vegetable crops can be used, for example, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, lettuce.

Important! The soil is fertile not only due to the presence of a certain set of microelements in it. A necessary condition is also the creation of a natural complex of all kinds of microorganisms and various types of organic substances. Therefore, a big mistake is the belief among summer residents that it is possible to restore depleted soil by thoughtlessly dumping a bucket of compost on the garden bed and watering it on top with complex mineral fertilizer purchased at the nearest supermarket.

What to plant after strawberries

Strawberries tend to deplete the soil very much, so immediately after transplanting them (and doing this better time at four years old) the bed where it grew must be carefully fed with minerals and organic fertilizers. It is better to do this right in the fall, thoroughly digging the soil after adding additives to it.

Strawberries consume especially a lot of nitrogen, so it is best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after them - they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.

The antifungal and phytoncidal properties of garlic make it a good helper for cleansing the soil of pests remaining in it after strawberries. Along with the garlic, you can also plant parsley, celery and other plants here. aromatic greens to drive slugs out of the garden.

Actually, this limits the planting options for the year following strawberries. But after the above crops, you can plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.

Important! Raspberries and strawberries should not be alternated with each other, as these plants have similar pests.

It would be nice to set up a flower garden on the site of a former strawberry bed. Perennial peonies, daffodils, tulips and violets will help the soil recover from the berries that have depleted it.

What to plant after potatoes

Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consume a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after harvesting the tubers lacks these elements. You can make up for the loss with mineral fertilizers, or you can plant annual grasses that generate potassium and phosphorus. This role can be performed by datura grass, mustard, oats, peas, rapeseed, and phacelia.

If it is not possible to completely clear the area after potatoes are planted whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require prior application of mineral fertilizers to restore soil fertility. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other nightshade crops cannot be planted after potatoes. The same applies to pepper.

It’s good to make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, and onions as predecessors to potatoes.

What to plant after tomatoes

We decided that after tomatoes we should not plant eggplants, potatoes and peppers. As with other cultures, After tomatoes, it is ideal to plant annuals that will fill the soil with the missing elements. If you don’t have the opportunity for such luxury, it doesn’t matter! Peas, beans and other legumes will help replenish the lack of nitrogen in the soil; cabbage will also do well in the bed where tomatoes grew, since the pests of these crops are different. There are no contraindications for planting cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, and garlic. In addition, tomatoes are the little thing after which you can plant carrots.

What to plant after beets

The choice of what can be planted after beets next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades are suitable for these purposes, but before planting, the soil must be well fed with humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. A good option is also a carrot. By the way, the predecessors of carrots in the garden, in addition to beets and the tomatoes mentioned above, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.

The above crops also work in the reverse order, that is, in relation to after which it is better to plant beets. To this list you can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, lettuce, herbs - parsley, dill, celery.

What can you plant after pepper?

The root system of sweet pepper is located in upper layers soil, so after it it is best to plant crops with deeper roots. These can be root vegetables (radish, radish, beets, carrots), except potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.

You cannot plant any crops of the nightshade family after pepper. Myself Bell pepper can be planted after peas, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, beets, and celery.

What can you plant after peas?

Peas, as mentioned above, are a good predecessor for many crops. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen will have a particularly beneficial effect on the harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin, melon, as well as various types of cabbage.

However, peas have one unpleasant feature: they are very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially in conditions high humidity. Therefore, if a crop affected by such a disease grew on the site, this place in next year You should not plant peas or other legumes. Spores of such diseases can persist in the soil for 5-6 years, so during this entire period it is better to use the garden bed for crops that are less susceptible to these diseases.

What to plant next: table of predecessors of vegetable crops when planting

Regarding desirable and undesirable precursors of specific vegetable crops, there are a huge number of general and specific rules, summarized for clarity in various tables. They can be consulted whenever planning appropriate rotations.

For example, you can group crop rotation rules as follows:

Culture	Good predecessor	Possible predecessor	Bad predecessor
Legumes, cucumbers, cabbage	Carrots, beets, onions	Nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers)
Garlic, onion	Potatoes, carrots, legumes, cucumbers	Cabbage, tomatoes, beets	Onion, garlic, pepper, physalis
Tomatoes	Cabbage (especially cauliflower), carrots, onions, cucumbers, greens		Any nightshade, physalis
Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin)	Legumes, nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes), cabbage, onions	Beets, greens	Any pumpkin
Legumes (peas, beans, beans)	Strawberries, cucumber, potatoes, cabbage,	Tomatoes	Perennial herbs
Carrot	Onion, cucumber	Radishes, beets, cabbage
Greenery	Cabbage, cucumbers	Legumes, potatoes, tomatoes, onions	Carrots, parsnips, celery
Eggplant	Legumes, turnips, rutabaga, cucumber, cabbage, onions, melons		Solanaceae
Pepper	Turnips, carrots, cucumbers, cabbage, rutabaga, legumes,	Onion garlic	Nightshades, pumpkin
Potatoes, cucumber, onion	Legumes, tomatoes	Carrot
Legumes, nightshades, onions, garlic	Lettuce, corn	Pumpkins, rutabaga, carrots, turnips, radishes, turnips

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Thus, by turning to such tips, you can always clarify what to do next, for example, to plant onions or what to sow the bed where tomatoes grew.

However, not only tables, but also firmly understood rules will help you correctly identify the predecessors of vegetables when planting.

Important! Categorically bad predecessors are: beets, radishes, turnips and radishes for cabbage (and vice versa); carrots, tomatoes and cabbage - for onions, beans - for carrots and cucumbers, carrots for cucumbers and beets.

But after what you can plant carrots and other root vegetables, it’s after garlic or onions. Also, root vegetables grow well after greens and vice versa.

Neighboring cultures

In addition to answering the question of what to plant next, it is also equally important to know what to plant with what, that is, which crops can and cannot be planted next to each other. The fact is that plants have an influence on each other, which can be both positive and negative. Knowing the basic rules, you can avoid mistakes and solve many problems that prevent you from obtaining a stable harvest.

For example, as mentioned above, the root system of plants releases toxic substances that protect the crop from diseases and pests. Moreover, such poisons can harm neighboring plants, or, on the contrary, provide them with additional protection. Thus, colins secreted by mustard have a beneficial effect on peas, carrots and garlic, but are poorly tolerated by cabbage. Knowing this feature, it is easy to determine what you can plant peas with and what you should not plant cabbage with.

What crops are best to plant in the neighborhood?

So, joint plantings - important rule crop rotation, which allows optimal use of the limited space of the site, as well as improving crop yields.
For example, potatoes and beans are wonderful neighbors. It protects it from such a pest as the weevil, and it replenishes its need for nitrogen and repels the Colorado potato beetle. In addition to beans, it is useful to place cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, radish, dill, and lettuce next to potatoes. All these plants have a beneficial effect on the potato harvest by removing excess moisture from the soil. And onions and garlic planted nearby protect potatoes from late blight.

By the way, garlic has a beneficial effect on many crops, so there are plenty of options for what to plant it with. Strawberries are considered a classic, since these plants are equally useful for each other: garlic protects capricious strawberries from diseases and pests, and the berry helps the formation of more cloves in garlic. Enzymes secreted by carrots have the same effect on the plant: under their influence, the garlic bulb becomes larger.

Did you know? If you plant garlic and horseradish next to each other, the amount of vitamin C increases in both.

From various diseases and pests (aphids, mole crickets, cockchafers), garlic saves not only vegetable crops, for example, tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots, but also flowers - gladioli, carnations, roses, etc. But garlic itself from dangerous For him, calendula and chicory can protect onion flies.

Dill and corn are something that can be planted next to cucumbers, carrots get along well with peas, and peas themselves - with potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants. It is better to plant melons separately.

Other rules regarding what to plant with what in the beds can be presented in the form of a table:

Culture
beans	cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, melons	peas, garlic, onion
peas	cabbage, lettuce, carrots, radishes	beans, potatoes, garlic, onions, tomatoes
strawberries	garlic, onion, lettuce, radish
cucumbers	beans, garlic, cabbage, lettuce, celery, onion, greens	tomatoes, radishes, potatoes, zucchini
potato	beans, onions, garlic, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, dill, lettuce	tomatoes, peas, sunflowers
cabbage	peas, cucumbers, potatoes, lettuce, radishes, beets	garlic, onion, tomatoes
beet	cucumbers, salad	onion, cabbage
tomatoes	garlic, cabbage, lettuce, leek	peas, cucumbers, potatoes
onion	strawberries, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, beets	beans, cabbage, tomatoes
pepper	cucumbers, kohlrabi	tomatoes, legumes
zucchini	legumes, beets, onions	cucumbers

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"Neighbors are enemies"

As can be seen from the table above, in addition to a successful neighborhood, there is also an extremely undesirable neighborhood. As a rule, plants “are at enmity” due to the incompatibility of the substances they secrete. For example, black walnut has a depressant effect on most vegetables due to the juglone it produces. Vegetables are also not good in the vicinity of wormwood. If you plant legumes and onions nearby, both will develop poorly. Literally all crops feel depressed with fennel, so it is better to plant this plant separately from others. Potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are also poorly compatible.
Eggplants and tomatoes do not like the proximity of other nightshades; peppers and beets, cabbage and strawberries do not get along side by side.

Did you know? I wonder what is beautiful and loved by everyone conifer tree like a spruce, renders adverse effect on almost all trees, and this impact persists for decades after the spruce itself is cut down.

Sometimes it happens that plants have different effects on each other depending on their number. As they say, there is medicine in a spoon, and poison in a cup. In this case, you can arrange the proximity of such a crop in small quantities, for example, along the edge of a garden bed. For example, such an experiment can be carried out with valerian, yarrow or nettle, planting them in small groups near vegetables.

Thus, it is important for any gardener to know what to plant next, and proper planning of crops when planting is a way to protect the soil from depletion and help plants naturally support each other for better growth and development.

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Alternation of crops in the beds. There are two approaches to classifying plants into good and bad precursors, which will be discussed later.
Predecessor- a crop grown in the previous planting season or 1-5 months before the current crop.

Green manure- plants such as: white mustard, phacelia, buckwheat, rye, legumes. On summer cottages they are grown not for harvesting (except for legumes, of course), but for subsequent crushing and incorporation into the soil in order to enrich it with many minerals primarily nitrogen. Where does nitrogen come from in these plants? The roots of green manure contain entire colonies special bacteria- nitrogen fixers. Another benefit of green manure: their roots do not need to be painstakingly pulled out and chopped, let them remain, because the passages from them allow the soil to “breathe”, and the roots of vegetables planted after green manure will develop better. That is, the roots of green manure loosen the soil. Again - to us less work, there is no need to loosen and fertilize the soil with pre-dissolved mineral fertilizers from bags. And green manure costs much less than fertilizers in powders and ampoules. They are cold-resistant, you can plant them any time, they grow very quickly. Three harvests of legumes will enrich the soil as if you had fertilized it with a good dose of manure. Green manure also allows you to deoxidize the soil. And this problem exists for many summer residents, because our allotment was given to territories previously used for collective farm fields, therefore, the soil was depleted.

Organic farming- a method of caring for an area that does not use artificial mineral fertilizers, sold in stores in bags. But this does not mean a complete abandonment of mineral fertilizers. You can use peat (to loosen the soil); lime - ordinary, for whitewashing ceilings (to deoxidize the soil); ash as a source of easily soluble potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, manganese and other micro- and macroelements. Same list chemical elements You will read from the periodic table on bags of mineral fertilizers, which you also need to work with gloves and even sometimes in a respirator, without children nearby. The best ash comes from burning wood; it has the most balanced composition. But it can also be used from the burning of the thick stems of some plants - sunflower, for example. If you add ash, do not use other mineral fertilizers, otherwise you will upset the balance in the soil. Also when organic farming do not diligently dig up the soil, only loosen it superficially so as not to mix it beneficial bacteria upper layers and lower ones, because These bacteria work only in their native layer. Also, with this method of farming, the soil should not remain “bare”; there should always be something on it: either a growing crop or green manure, or at least the soil should be covered with a layer of chopped lawn grass, or, temporarily, rotted weeds, or mulched with compost.

Mulching- a technique used in the above farming method. We finely chop the weeds (without fanaticism, you can just chop them with a sharp shovel or weeder), put them around the sprouted and more or less developed plants on watered and loosened soil, otherwise a thick layer of mulch will crush the young shoots and they will rot. That’s it, until the end of summer you don’t have to worry about frequent watering and loosening after each watering.

Mixed plantings- when they sit in the same bed different cultures. They allow us to save space for sowing on our small lands, cover the soil with leaves so that it does not dry out, and repel various pests one crop by secretions of neighboring crops into the air and soil, and even serve as a support for neighboring ones climbing plants. Sometimes plants even improve each other's taste, such as beans planted in a narrow strip among strawberries. But there are also irreconcilable enemy plants that cannot be planted nearby.
I'll tell you about all these techniques.

Basic principles of crop rotation - two ways to separate plants into good and bad predecessors

The first way to divide plants into good and bad predecessors is based on the plant's need for nutrients. Vegetables are “taken” from the soil and also brought into it useful material In different ways, all plants are divided into three groups according to their need for nutrients: with high need, with medium need, and with low need. It is necessary to alternate crops of different groups so that the soil is not depleted.

Plants with a high need for nutrients are easy to remember; they mostly have large fruits: potatoes, cabbage, pumpkin, zucchini, rhubarb, but they also include small ones: spinach and celery. However, it is necessary to note some peculiarity of crop rotation for this group of crops - for several years in a row (2-3 years exactly) you can grow potatoes and cabbage in one place, not forgetting about sowing green manure before winter or in early spring, this even allows us to “clear” the soil of weeds, because we field and loosen these crops twice a season, or even more often.

With an average need for nutrients - smaller plants: cucumbers and melons, kohlrabi and radishes, eggplant and tomatoes, climbing beans, leeks, beets and carrots, and horseradish.
Finally, plants with a weak need for nutrients: peas and bush beans - they can even be used as green manure, they bring a lot of nitrogen, as well as onions, radishes, lettuce, and herbs.
The second way to divide plants into good and bad predecessors is by what family the plants belong to. It’s easier to navigate here; just remember your school knowledge. The principle of crop rotation here is as follows: you cannot plant plants of the same family in the same place for two years in a row. The most common crops in our areas are from these families: brassicas (cruciferous) - radishes, turnips, radishes, daikon, cabbages (naturally), horseradish and watercress. Nightshades - you need to be especially careful here, because... this family has many diseases and pests: potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, physalis. Pumpkin - they need to be distributed not only at the time of planting, but also in place, since they are cross-pollinated - zucchini and squash, pumpkins with melons and watermelons and, of course, cucumbers. Butterworts are excellent green manures, so it is not advisable to plant them in the same place every year - peas, beans, beans and lentils, the latter is rarely grown.

How to draw up a crop rotation scheme on your site

Anyone can draw up a correct scheme for the alternation of cultures, although at first glance it seems impossible - as if solving a complex logical problem of Einstein. It is enough to draw a diagram of your beds and number them. In the table, write down the numbers of the beds in rows and the years in columns. Then arm yourself with a pencil, an eraser and spread the names of the crops across the table. Remember the two principles of crop rotation, that is, do not plant plants of the same family in the same place, as well as plants with the highest need for nutrients ahead of plants with a lower need for them. That, it would seem, is all. But it turns out there is also a concept mixed plantings and plants, " good neighbors"and "bad", because our plots are small, we cannot spread over fields the size of half a hectare different types crops, you have to distribute the crops not only over time, but also over place, and this is in one season.

List of good and bad predecessors

So, a list of crops, good and bad predecessors, at the end - what to plant after this crop (so as not to search through the list of bad and good predecessors again).
I note that green manure, including grains and legumes, can be considered as good predecessors for any crops except legumes, and they can also be planted after any crops except legumes.
Watermelon, melon, pumpkin. Good predecessors are onions, cabbage, root vegetables. The bad ones are sunflower, potato, pumpkin. After planting: beans, lettuce, peas, beans, herbs.
Cabbage. Good predecessors are carrots, onions, cucumbers. The bad ones are all cabbage (with turnips, radishes and radishes), beets, tomatoes, horseradish. After planting: watermelons with melons, pumpkin, cucumbers with zucchini and squash, onions, carrots, celery and tomatoes with peppers and eggplant (after fertilizing with green manure), garlic, and possibly potatoes, the latter only after fertilization.
Peas. Good predecessors are cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage and potatoes. The bad ones are legumes. After planting: everything except legumes.
Carrot. Good predecessors are cucumbers and zucchini, cabbage, onions, and tomatoes. The bad ones are carrots themselves, potatoes, as well as related parsley and, oddly enough, beans. After planting: onions are the best, as well as garlic, and maybe tomatoes. I don’t recommend potatoes; I didn’t have a successful harvest after carrots, although the crop rotation tables advise. Apparently, they still don’t plant root crops after root crops.
Parsley. Good predecessors are cucumber, onion, and tomatoes. The bad ones are carrots, parsley itself, celery, especially after root parsley. After planting: zucchini, squash.
Radish, turnip, radish. Good predecessors are potatoes, beans, cucumbers and tomatoes. The bad ones are cabbage vegetables, as they are also classified as cruciferous vegetables. Also, carefully weed such beds to remove the weeds, for the same reason. After planting: zucchini, squash.
Celery. Good predecessors are cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers. The bad ones are carrots, root parsley, and especially celery itself. After planting: lettuce, bush beans, onions, herbs.
Beet. Good predecessors are cucumber, onion, garlic. The bad ones are the beets themselves, as well as other root vegetables - carrots, celery and chard, although they are leafy, but still a relative, as well as cabbage. After planting: zucchini, squash, potatoes, lettuce.
Nightshades - tomato, pepper, eggplant. Good predecessors are cucumber, cabbage (only after green manure), and onion. The bad ones are all nightshades. After planting: onions, garlic, carrots, parsley, cruciferous vegetables (radishes and radishes), cucumbers. Often they even alternate planting cucumber, tomato, and pepper plants in greenhouses, which is very convenient.
Cucumber. Good predecessors are tomato, cabbage (after green manure). Bad ones - zucchini, squash, pumpkins, melons, watermelons. After planting: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, carrots, parsley, beets.
Zucchini, squash. Good predecessors are cabbage (after green manure), radishes with radishes and turnips, onions, carrots, and greens. The bad ones are pumpkin ones. After planting: carrots, bush beans, lettuce, radishes.
Onion. Good predecessors are nightshade, cabbage, and legumes. The bad ones are the onions themselves, garlic, cucumbers. After planting: everything except onions, garlic and cucumbers.
Garlic. Good predecessors are tomato and cabbage. The bad ones are onions and garlic, cucumbers, carrots. After planting: everything except onions, garlic and cucumbers.
Potato. Good predecessors are beets and cabbage (after green manure). The bad ones are the rest of the nightshades. Then plant (but only after green manure): cabbage, pumpkin, garlic, onions, root vegetables, herbs.

Mixed plantings

To enhance the effect of proper crop rotation, you can experiment with mixed plantings.
A few rules for mixed plantings. Basically, you can use the above table of bad and good predecessors. Plants of the same family should not be planted next to each other; there will be many pests.
Tall ones will shade short ones; when orienting plantings, take into account where the sun rises and sets.
Shade-tolerant: dill, parsley, rhubarb, spinach, sorrel (especially), lettuce, zucchini, Chinese cabbage.
Photophilous: tomato, pepper, eggplant, melon, watermelon, cucumber, peas, beans.
Moderately light-loving (meaning, if there is shadow for some part of the daylight hours, then this is even beneficial): onions, garlic, cabbage, beans, carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, radishes.
Consider which group the plants belong to based on their nutrient needs, so as not to deplete the soil.
The densely branching roots of some plants can entangle the thin roots of other plants.
Fast-growing crops can be planted in slow-ripening ones; a classic example is the proximity of carrots and onions.
No plant is compatible with fennel (a relative of dill), so it is planted in the farthest corner of the garden.
Most aromatic herbs and seasonings, and even dandelions, have a beneficial effect on plantings by repelling insect pests; this knowledge has been used since medieval times, in monastery gardens. For those who are addicted medicinal herbs You can find the article by N. M. Zhirmunskaya “Good and bad neighbors in the garden bed”, it describes herbs in detail. I don’t plant grass yet, because... I don’t use them much in cooking, so we’ll focus on vegetables.

Examples of beds with mixed plantings

Classic - carrots and onions. Onion and carrot flies will not grow in such a bed. You pull out the onions in August, and the carrots a little later; also, with this method, very few weeds grow.
Planting corn, pumpkins and beans has been a classic since Indian times. The pumpkin provides shade to the soil, fewer weeds grow, and tall corn prevents the sun from burning the pumpkin, while beans simply enrich the soil with nitrogen. I tried corn next to potatoes. Liked.
From unusual neighbors: cucumber and corn (or sunflower). The cucumber wraps around a thick stem, oddly enough, without interfering with its support to develop, and they, in turn, protect the cucumber from the wind. I wrote down this method for myself, maybe I’ll try it.
Garlic, and around the edges - plant radishes or beets individually. Then plant green manure.
Onions, along the edges there are a few early radishes, I especially liked the “Early Red” variety, very large. But such a load on the garden bed - root crops pull out a lot of nutrients from the soil, although onions clean it - must be accompanied by sowing green manure in the fall or August.

Rice. 1. Beds prepared for sowing onions and radishes.

Rice. 2. The same beds after harvesting the radishes.

Rice. 3. After harvesting the onions, with already sprouted green manure (white mustard). Early October.

Daikon, around the edges - early radish. Despite the fact that these are both root vegetables, the ripening period is different, so the daikon will still be huge, 30-35 centimeters.

Rice. 4. July. Daikon 'Minowase', grown with early radishes, was planted in early June.

A row of radishes, a row of spinach, lettuce, dill around the edges. The very first landing, the very early harvest, dill is picked last. In general, dill can be sown in many crops. They say that the proximity of spinach to lettuce improves the taste of the latter.
Cabbage, marigolds around the edges. It’s beautiful and repels pests.
Cabbage, cauliflower and regular cabbage, with dill is the most ideal combination. Dill also benefits from this placement.
Onions on greens among tomatoes in a greenhouse - while the tomato stem is developing, the onion grows quickly in such luxurious greenhouse conditions.
A row of onions, a row of beets, a row of lettuce, another row of onions. Looks good. The salad was ripe - it was quickly removed, the beets and onions had more space to develop. The next harvest is onions, again there is room for further development of beets.
I tried other mixed planting options recommended on the Internet, but I didn’t like some of them.
I didn't like the beans and beans among the potatoes. They only interfere with hilling and wrap around the potatoes. In addition, these crops are potassium-loving crops and draw potassium from the soil. However, it is good to grow black beans around the potato plot, it seems to repel the moles a bit. But you need black beans to grow around the entire perimeter, along closed loop. This method of repelling moles came to us from Estonia. I'll definitely try it.
There is also a means to control mice; our neighbors have almost successfully tested it. It is necessary to plant around the perimeter of the site white mustard. In the fall, use it again to incorporate it into the soil and enrich it with nitrogen.
Lettuce and spinach did not grow among the winter radishes and daikon. They crushed him under the shadow of their powerful leaves. Although I also read this method on the Internet. Like, lettuce and spinach are harvested early, and radish and daikon much later. Nothing like this. Cruciferous leaves grow very quickly and shade lettuce and spinach.
The spinach among the leeks was small in size and absolutely unimpressive.

Rice. 5. Spinach among leeks as an example of an unsuccessful mixed planting.

Garlic among strawberries never grows large for me, although this is considered a classic planting. But he grew well after green manure.

Rice. 6. The size of huge cloves of garlic after green manure.

Rice. 7. Medium-sized garlic grown among strawberries.

Technology 1-2-3-4-5-6 for creating a bed for strawberries - immediately applying the principles of crop rotation and mixed plantings

A widely known crop rotation scheme using joint plantings- technology “1-2-3-4-5-6”, as I called it, for creating a good bed for strawberries in the sixth year.
Based on the creation of high beds. It is possible with fencing with boards, or without. Branches are laid down for drainage - from berry bushes, for example. But they need to be chopped. I didn’t chop some of them, but by spring they sprouted and even produced leaves. Apparently, they were very tenacious. You can even put an old chain-link under the branches to protect against rodents. Then a layer of soil is laid, then compost, and so on, we also throw in the weeded weeds, preferably those that have not had time to produce seeds, without roots. In the spring, we cover everything with a small layer of soil with compost and use “new technologies.” Such a bed already has time to warm up when there is snow everywhere, because it is closer to the sun, although only 20-50 cm from ground level.
Compost can be used from annual plantings zucchini, even though it is unripe; compost specially collected and rotted for 2-3 years, already black and crumbly; purchased - but it is very expensive; as well as just pea tops and the topsoil of the pea bed.

Rice. 8. Such dry pea tops, as well as the soil from under them, are an excellent source of nitrogen and can be planted in any garden bed.

Rice. 9. Unripe annual compost from under zucchini.

But you can use it as soon as you have created a bed, even from unrotted compost. For this purpose, the 1-2-3-4-5-6 technology was created. You just need to cover the entire bed with black film or, better yet, black agrotex, and cut out the holes.
In the first year When the weeds have not yet had time to rot and release a lot of nitrogen, we plant plants that do not accumulate nitrates - cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini. Under no circumstances should you plant greens, cabbage, beets and radishes. At the end of summer we will plant white mustard, since pumpkin plants, as we remember, draw out a lot of nutrients. If we have time, we will chop the mustard in winter and plant it in the garden bed, then cover it with film for the winter. If we don’t have time, we’ll cover up the remains in the spring, but without using a shovel, only with weedgrass, loosening the soil shallowly.

Rice. 10. Beginning of construction of the first year bed.

In the second year Don’t forget to create a similar bed next to it, a second one. We plant on it what is supposed to be planted in the first year. And in the first bed, which has been living for the second year, we plant kohlrabi, cauliflower or tomatoes; you can also plant beets from the edge, if the bed is flat and not fenced with boards. For the winter we do everything the same as in the first year.
In the third year We are creating a third bed, so we already have three such high beds for this technology. On the third we grow what we are supposed to grow in the first year. On the second - what is supposed to be grown in the second year. And on the first one, which is now three years old, we grow early cabbage, carrots or celery, you can also use peppers and eggplants. Along the edges you can use nigella onions. We remember what to do in the fall.
In the fourth year adding another bed. We place crops by analogy with previous years. And in the oldest bed, four years old, there are beets or carrots, along the edges you can have onions for turnips, large ones grow. In the fall, don’t forget to take care of the garden bed again.
In the fifth year in the oldest, five-year-old bed, we will grow greens - lettuce, dill, parsley, because a lot of nutrients have already been drawn out of the soil by the plantings of the previous four years, despite the fact that we planted green manure for the winter. And greens do not require highly nutritious soil. And in the four-year-old, three-year-old, two-year-old and (don’t forget to make one new high bed every year!) in the new bed we plant what is supposed to be planted in beds of that age. In the fall, we have already sowed green manure in five beds.
In the sixth year the oldest, six-year-old, bed will no longer be as high as before. Just for strawberries, since raised beds require watering more often than ordinary ones located flush with the ground, because the berry requires rare watering. We plant radishes on it in early spring, and then, after harvesting, strawberry tendrils, which will grow in such a bed for three years.
Then, three years later, after harvesting the strawberry tendrils from our oldest garden bed, we start all over again.

Don’t be afraid to get confused in the rules of crop rotation and the principles of joint planting: in any case, there will be a harvest, indulge in berries and early vegetables It will work out, and you will certainly enjoy the experiment. Have a rich harvest!