You have used the correct finishing compounds and applied them correctly. A durable protective film has formed on the surface of the product, and you love the way it looks. What to do next? Perhaps nothing. In some cases, it's time to take the finished project out of the workshop for everyone to see. However, most often last layer the coating is not good enough for you to be proud of your work. By carefully examining the surfaces with your eyes and fingertips, you can easily detect dried dust particles, shagreen or roughness. Get rid of these defects by polishing. This operation consists of leveling the coating film and giving it the desired degree of gloss using fine abrasives. You can achieve a perfectly smooth, glass-like surface using a simple technique similar to sanding the underlying wood. We can't let you touch finished surface with a polished varnish film, but you can see the difference by comparing photos A and B.
First of all, you need to polish products with surfaces located in plain sight, which are often touched. These include table tops and doors. Start honing your skills on them. Polishing is not difficult and is more than worth the effort.
First, let's list the polishing methods
COATING POLISHING METHODS |
|||
Coverage type | Alignment | Matte or semi-matte gloss | Mirror gloss |
Oil or oil-varnish polish | Waterproof sandpaper No. 320 and finishing composition as a lubricant | Polishing with white abrasive pads and wax paste | Unattainable |
Polyurethane, alkyd-oil varnish, compositions based on water based | |||
Nitrolac and shellac | Waterproof 600-grit sandpaper or white abrasive pads for random orbital sander | Polishing with a wool roller with polish or white abrasive pads with wax paste | After obtaining a silky-matt shine, polish with wool and fine polishing paste or sandpaper No. 800-1500 |
First a necessary condition for polishing is a coating film, which must be thick enough so as not to rub through it. To do this, the previous finishing stage requires correctly applying several thin layers of varnish. In addition, patience is required. Allow the film to completely harden before polishing. Remember that it is impossible to add shine to a film that is not sufficiently hard and elastic. Depending on the finishing compounds used, film thickness, temperature and humidity, drying of the coating can last for a month.
If you want to achieve a mirror gloss, it is especially important that the surface of the wood under the varnish is perfectly smooth. Fill open wood with a special filler paste or use a wet sanding method.
You will need various abrasives (photo C). All abrasive materials create small marks-scratches on the surface of the film; the size of these marks affects the reflection of light by the surface (Fig. 1). The finer the abrasive particles, the smaller and finer the scratches and the more shiny the surface will be. Large abrasive particles will leave rough scratches and the surface will have a dull shine. A highly polished gloss varnish looks like glass, reflecting light and surrounding objects.
Any other varnish contains some amount of matting additives, mainly in the form of small particles of silica. These additives reflect light in different directions, giving the coating a soft shine. You can reduce the gloss level of the coating, but you will not be able to make a matte varnish as shiny as a glossy one, so you should determine the desired level of gloss in advance and choose the appropriate finishing compound.
Glossy varnish provides more options. Its shine can be easily reduced to matte. If you decide that you have overdone it, you can restore it to its original gloss. Remember that on surfaces that are not too shiny, coating defects become less noticeable, but on glossy surfaces they appear clearly. To obtain a mirror gloss, the coating film must be very hard. Such a film can be obtained using shellac or nitro varnish for finishing. Polyurethane, pentaphthalic and water-based varnishes produce a softer, more flexible film and generally cannot be polished to a high gloss. The surface will be best case scenario, semi-matte with a slight silky shine. Oil-based varnishes and oil-varnish polishes almost always remain matte, with only a slight increase in shine.
Grinding and polishing: if done correctly it's quite simple
Start mastering the polishing technique with the simplest method. Apply a layer of wax paste to the surface finished with oil-varnish polish. When the coating is completely dry, use a soft swab of nonwoven fabric spread a paste of soft beeswax and hard carnauba wax over the surface (photo D). By rubbing the paste, you smooth out all traces of dust particles, making the surface smooth and pleasant to the touch.
Photos: A – B: When spray coatings are applied, surfaces often develop a so-called shagreen pattern, resembling the skin of an orange (left). You can make such a surface smooth and shiny by polishing (right). C: Polishing pastes can be found in auto care stores, a roller made of sheep wool And sandpaper- in a construction supermarket, and felt blocks, Abralon discs, abrasive sponges and pads - in specialized stores that sell everything necessary for professional finishing. D: Minor scratches on a walnut table finished with an oil-varnish polish can be buffed out with non-woven abrasive pads using Briwax dark brown wax. E: When dry sanding nitro varnish with fine-grained paper, the top layer of the film turns into white dust. Change the paper frequently to avoid getting greasy. When finished sanding, clean the surface with a cloth or compressed air.
The probability of rubbing through the coating film is low, and the product acquires a soft, radiant shine. Surfaces finished with shellac, nitro varnish or alkyd-oil varnish usually have more defects than those coated with oil-varnish varnish. Often you can find specks of dust, brush marks, bubbles and drips. If the defects are minor, polishing will be as simple as in the previous case. At the same time, numerous microscopic scratches are created on the surface of the film, giving the coating a soft shine.
Open pores, bumps and other defects will not disappear, but they will be less noticeable on a semi-matte surface. You can use mineral spirits, soap, or any other lubricant instead of wax, but it is better to remove defects while applying wax.
More defects - more work
Now let’s imagine a thicker coating film with a slightly larger number of defects, among which dried dust particles are more common, especially on slow-drying oil-varnish coatings. Most of them can be easily scraped off with a knife blade after the next layer has dried. Hold the blade almost vertically with your thumb and forefinger and carefully scrape the surface, making smooth movements toward you.
Be careful not to scratch the film. Dried dust can be remove by sanding, but the blade allows you to do this faster and with less effort, especially on flat surfaces. Curved, profiled and carved areas should be sanded. The blade scraping method also reduces the risk of through-cut damage to the coating film, as occurs when sanding at the edges flat surfaces. The finishing composition applied in liquid form seems to tend to the middle of the surface, forming a thinner layer along the edges, where it can be easily damaged.
Spraying a finish allows you to increase the film thickness at the edges, but achieve smooth transition Using a brush or dipping is almost impossible. After scraping off the dust particles, you need to additionally sand the coating to even it out and get rid of other defects. This operation will not take much time if the dried layers are sequentially sanded during the coating process. For leveling the film, waterproof abrasive paper with silicon carbide grains wrapped around a block with glued felt, cloth, cork or rubber is best suited (photo E). If you want to sand dry, stearate coated paper (usually gray) is the best choice. This paper contains a soap-like substance that protects the abrasive from clogging. However, it should not be used when an additional layer of coating is going to be applied. For sanding water-based varnishes and polyurethane, it is better to use waterproof silicon carbide paper (usually black).
If you prefer wet sanding, choose plain waterproof paper without a stearate coating. Lubricants protect the abrasive from clogging with coating particles that stick together into tiny lumps and get stuck between the abrasive grains.
These lumps can leave noticeable marks on the coating film. You can use soap oxen, white spirit, kerosene, wax or oil as lubricants. Experiment with them to feel their properties. With soapy water the process is more active, but the paper clogs faster. With oil, sanding slows down, but the paper remains clean for a long time. Speeding up the process may seem like an effective way to save time, but it often results in sanding through the coating (photo F). This is possible when using any lubricants. You can remove a large area of the coating, creating a hard-to-fix defect, and not even notice it until the lubricant dries.
To even out the coating film, sand carefully and little by little. Then clean the surface and shine a bright light on it. If shiny areas are noticeable, the surface is not yet leveled. Continue sanding the entire surface, not just the shiny areas.
Each new layer of composition (nitrovarnish or shellac) softens the previous layer and firmly connects with it, forming almost a single layer (Fig. 2). However, each layer of so-called reactive (or polymerizing) compounds dries as separate layer, which can create problems during grinding and polishing. If you sand unevenly, you may remove some of the top layer and affect the underlying layer, resulting in patchy areas. irregular shape with sharply defined light borders. Level the coating film until it is pleasing to the eye and touch, then apply a layer of paste wax using an abrasive sponge as in the previous cases.
Figure 1 (top): How polishing changes shine
Figure 2 (bottom): Two types of coatings: compositions on organic solvents and polymerizing
Each new layer of a composition based on organic solvents, such as nitro varnish or shellac, is firmly connected to the previous one, so such a coating is easily polished. Polymerizing (reactive) compounds, like polyurethane, form separate layers. Sanding through the top layer results in unsightly streaks.
How to achieve a mirror gloss
If you want the surface finished with nitro varnish or shellac to shine like a mirror, first level it as described earlier. Then continue polishing, gradually moving to finer abrasives, until the desired result is achieved. You can use abrasive paper with a grain size of 800-1500 units, polishing pastes and microabrasives, the grain size of which is measured in many thousands of units.
Leveling and polishing pastes, as well as polishing liquids (polishes) for cars, suitable for our purposes, are not difficult to find on sale, and they do an excellent job with furniture coatings. Most leveling pastes that are orange or pink color, allow you to achieve a matte shine. After using them, move on to white polishing pastes to achieve a glossy surface.
These pastes can be rubbed over the surface by hand or using a machine. A piece of felt or a short-haired tampon is suitable for applying them. It is better to polish the coating with a sheep's wool roller (photo G). These rollers are commonly used on hardwood floors and can be found at hardware stores. A special polishing machine will help speed up the processing of large flat surfaces, but you can also use a regular eccentric one. Many models are equipped with an additional polishing pad (check the manufacturer's instructions).
Photo 2: F: If the coating film is thin, it is easy to rub it through with sandpaper and expose the wood, as happened with the frame for the mirror. G: The sheep wool roller is comfortable to hold with both hands, applying pressure in the right places. Polishing compounds are sold in auto cosmetics stores and car dealerships.
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Now let's talk about methods and equipment for refining the surface of the finished varnish film. In principle, there can be three types of structure of this surface - silky, matte, glossy.
A silky sheen usually occurs in coatings formed by varnishes containing volatile solvents (for example, nitrocellulose). Such coatings are characterized by a small thickness, as a result of which they copy the surface of the substrate, i.e., the fibrous structure of wood.
A matte (or, as they sometimes say, matte) surface can be obtained in two ways - by special grinding of the glossy coating or by using varnishes with matting additives. Recently, the second method has been mainly used.
Glossy coatings (they can also be called mirror-smooth) have become widespread. They are formed by varnishes, in which film formation occurs without evaporation of solvents. But immediately after curing, ready-made glossy coatings are practically impossible to obtain. It is necessary to refine them to remove irregularities that are the result of errors in varnish spilling, coating drying, dust getting on the surface, copying substrate irregularities, etc.
The reader may wonder which coating structure is preferable. The answer cannot be clear. This is influenced by both economics (the cheapest coating is silky), and the taste of the manufacturer and buyer (in the USSR and in a number of foreign countries for a long time preference was given to glossy coatings), and technological capabilities (to obtain glossy coatings you need complex refining equipment, which will be discussed below, and for matte coatings, special, still relatively scarce, varnishes are needed).
The author should draw the reader's attention to the fact that the structure and quality of the surface paint coating- one of the most important quality characteristics of the entire product, especially furniture. For manufacturers, this circumstance is complicated by the fact that the sensitivity of the human eye to surface irregularities, especially polished ones, is very high (the eye can distinguish irregularities equal to even 1/5 microns!). Therefore, when obtaining the desired structure of the finished surface, much attention is paid to everything that contributes to its quality: product design, materials, machining, the final phase of production - refining the coating.
In most cases, the coating surface is leveled by grinding. In the case where coatings are capable of dissolving, leveling the surface can be done with a swab dipped in a solvent. The latter method is often used for curved surfaces.
Grinding or grinding is of great importance for leveling polyester coatings: a layer of paraffin is removed, micro-irregularities are reduced to a size where the coating can be polished, and the surface is leveled to a plane. When grinding, a layer 0.05-0.1 mm thick is removed. The height of irregularities (roughness) before polishing should not exceed 2 microns.
The surface is first sanded with coarser sandpaper (Nos. b and 7). Great importance has a grinding direction - it should be cross. Machines are preferably mechanically fed through-type, equipped with sanding belts that grind during the first pass across the movement of the board (rough grinding) and along the board (along the grain if the board is lined wood veneer) for fine grinding.
It is known from physics that a surface is mirror-like if the magnitude of the irregularities on it is less than half the wavelength of visible light, i.e. less than 0.2 microns. We have already said that after grinding, irregularities remain, the height of which can reach up to 2 microns. It is these irregularities that are removed by polishing, which is done with pastes (sometimes with liquids that dissolve coatings). Polishing pastes are a mixture of abrasive powders with a liquid or solid binder. Polishing is carried out on belt or drum grinding machines. The working tool on them is no longer sandpaper, but soft textiles, cloth, felt, on which paste is applied. Machines may have one or more drums (belts). If the machine is of a pass-through type, there can be 6 or even 8 of them. The drums are located at an angle to the direction of movement of the shield (8-12°). Sometimes, in order to avoid scratches, the drum is given an oscillating movement, i.e., slow movement along the axis.
From everything told in the seventh conversation, it is clear that for finishing works it is necessary to conduct special training of highly qualified personnel with knowledge in the field of physics and chemistry, mechanics and electronics, printing and paper production. Increasingly, in finishing shops you can meet specialized specialists - chemists, physicists, electronics engineers, printers.
The author believes that in the near future we can expect the appearance of new important improvements in finishing based on the latest achievements of science and technology, which will require even more highly qualified personnel.
Wood, as one of the most popular materials for the manufacture of furniture, requires a special finish that will emphasize its natural beauty, will extend the service life.
This process is called polishing. Of course he difficult to perform, takes a lot of time, and all actions must be carried out very carefully. Despite the difficulties, polishing wood allows you to create glossy surface, the main thing is to know the subtleties of the process.
What is polishing
As a result of polishing wooden surface retains its natural color and acquires a mirror shine. To polish, you need to apply it to the wood several times. special composition, which is called polish. Unlike alcohol-based varnish, the polish contains three times less resins, which makes it possible to obtain a thinner and more transparent decorative coating.
The technology for creating beautiful textures requires high-quality surface preparation, in particular, grinding and removing lint and dust particles. Then the wood is treated with a primer emulsion, polished, and polished as a final step.
What types of rocks can be polished?
It is immediately worth noting that not all breeds are suitable for polishing. For example, loose wood is difficult to polish.
It is more effective to polish dense rocks:
- Red tree;
- birch;
- boxwood;
- nut;
- pear;
- hornbeam;
- apple tree;
- maple.
Beautiful texture After polishing, beech wood is obtained, although it is difficult to polish. Oak is characterized by its hardiness, so it is also difficult to polish. Pine is rarely polished due to the friability of the wood; it is mainly sanded and varnished.
Wood polishing compounds
There is a fairly extensive range of products on the market designed to treat wooden products. Purchase the composition already at finished form can be found at any specialized retail outlet; if desired, it can be made at home using varnish or wax.
To prepare your own working mixture for polishing wood, you will need crushed shellac resin in an amount of 60 g and alcohol 0.5 l. The components are mixed in a glass container, closed tightly with a lid, and stirred periodically so that the shellac is completely dissolved. After which the working fluid is filtered and poured into a clean container.
For finishing children's furniture, dishes it is more advisable to use drying oil or wax paste. It is prepared from wax, turpentine (solvent) in a 1:1 ratio. First, the main component is heated in a container in a water bath, and then a solvent is added to it. To achieve a uniform consistency, the mixture must be stirred constantly. A felt swab is suitable for working with wax. This safe look wood polishes that do not emit harmful substances and are absolutely harmless.
If the house has varnished wooden furniture and needs to be refreshed, then you can use wood polish in an aerosol or liquid product. In this case, compositions with silicones give a good effect.
Note! Furniture wax for polishing, apply to wood without a varnish coating.
You can make a polish from olive oil (2 parts) and lemon juice (1 part or a little less). The products must be mixed and applied from a spray bottle to varnished furniture or by dipping a cloth into the polish.
Polish is also prepared from turpentine and beeswax, taking them in equal quantities, heating them in a water bath and mixing. The furniture is polished with even movements until it shines, paying attention to all the curves and nooks and crannies.
Stages of work
The wood polishing process consists of several stages. In order for the surface to look perfect after polishing, it must be first, then cover with a layer of soil and only then polish thoroughly.
Surface grinding
This procedure does not cause any particular difficulties, but it takes a lot of time to give the tree a perfect look.
The surface must be without chips, burrs, cracks and other defects. First, the wood is treated with sandpaper No. 46-60, then with abrasive material No. 80-100 and finally sanded with sandpaper No. 140-170.
Wood after sanding becomes clean, smooth, without protruding fibers and lint.
Padding
At this stage, the prepared wood is primed using shellac polish and a linen swab. It is not recommended to use cotton or wool fabrics for these purposes; they leave behind small fibers and lint, which are clearly visible on the polished product.
To apply the primer, take a small amount of polish onto a swab and begin wiping along different directions. With this approach, small cracks and pores are most effectively filled, and impregnation occurs better.
Note! First, make a smear on a test surface. The polish should dry quickly and not form bubbles. If there is a lot of it, then the excess is removed by wiping the test surface.
Primed product leave to dry for 2-3 days. After the varnish has dried well, it is necessary to sand the wood with a fine-grained abrasive material. The resulting dust is removed with a rag.
Polishing
After priming, the so-called polishing is performed. On a tampon made of linen fabric, apply a couple of drops vegetable oil (this makes it easier to glide) and pour a little liquid shellac polish. For work, you can further dilute the shellac-based composition (usually an 8% solution is used).
Place the tampon on the side and perform smooth circular movements. Polishing is carried out in three passes, where each layer must dry, sand with fine-grained sandpaper and be cleaned of dust. A slight gloss can only be seen after applying the third layer of the product.
Polishing
To polish wood, that is, to obtain an ideal shine, you should treat the surface of the wood with a fine-grained abrasive material (sandpaper) soaked in vegetable oil, when the third layer of polish is completely dry. After this, drip a little vegetable oil and polish onto the tampon.
The strength characteristics of a polished coating can be improved if you apply not just one, but several layers. At the end of sanding, it is recommended to treat the product with a soft cloth soaked in a solution of polish and water. Excess oil can be removed wiping wood ethyl alcohol . At the same time, the surface becomes smoother.
One of the main things is polishing the varnish after painting the car. To be more precise, you will first have to grind and only then can you begin polishing work. Polishing work does not begin immediately after painting. Usually it should take about three weeks.
Preparatory stage
Work should begin with preparatory work. To do this you need:
- Carry out a thorough car wash;
- dismantle or cover available material parts that will not be polished;
- blow compressed air onto the polished panels;
- perform degreasing.
Important! For degreasing, you need to use a special solvent or anti-silicone.
The last two points are best done in a pre-prepared garage or other suitable premises. When all this is completed, you can begin performing further procedures.
About sanding body panels
After complete drying, when the surface of the car is hard enough, you can begin the grinding procedure. It cannot be accomplished without the necessary tool And Supplies. You will need:
- a grinding machine with adjustable disk rotation speed;
- block of rubber or hard wood;
- dishes with water;
- polishing wheels, they should be of different hardness, soft and dense;
- clean, soft, lint-free cloth.
- sheets of abrasive paper, with a grain size ranging from 1500-3000 units;
- polishing pastes with or without abrasive, as well as for final polishing.
Now we can talk about how to polish the varnish on a car after painting.
About the technology of work
Polishing of varnish is carried out either using a special tool or by hand. In the second case, bars made of rubber, wood, or felt are used, which are wrapped around sanding paper selected grain size.
Advice! There is no need to apply excessive force so as not to remove the “extra” layer of coating.
Polishing the body after varnishing with sanding pads is just the initial stage when minor defects are eliminated after painting the body. It is best to carry out the work using the “wet” method, that is, instead of sanding, the varnish is poured with water. The sanding paper should also be periodically moistened with liquid to remove adhering particles.
About polishing
Let's look at how to polish car varnish. This procedure may consist of two stages:
- polishing with abrasives;
- applying a protective layer.
The first type of work is designed to perform very precise sanding to achieve perfect smoothness. How to polish the varnish on a car depends on what paint is used to paint the vehicle body. Dark-colored bodies should be subjected to the most careful and high-quality processing.
The layer of varnish that can be applied to the body can be approximately 35-40 microns thick. With this thickness of varnish, 6 to 8 polishing operations can be performed. Polishing thin varnish on a car is done with pastes, which can be based on wax, silicone, etc. polymer composition. There are many such formulations available in retail chains. The greatest durability belongs to compositions based on epoxy resins.
Also gaining popularity are car polishes made using “ liquid glass" The unique composition of this polish allows you to visit a contactless car wash more than 50 times. It has a number of other advantages. For example, it repels water and dirt from the varnish well, and the color and shine of the paintwork is preserved for a long time. There is no need to use a polishing machine for polishing. Among the shortcomings, one can note one, but a very significant one, this high price polishes.
How to polish ceramic varnish
Lately, varnishes that are commonly called ceramic have begun to gain popularity among car owners. In fact, they never contained ceramics. Manufacturers carefully hide the composition of this product, but something is known about them. Manufacturers managed to invent a varnish composition that began to interfere with the abrasion process; it quickly restores the lost shine of the paint coating after minor damage.
This became possible due to the presence of solid particles in the top layer of the coating varnish. They are designed to provide obstacles when attempting to scratch. There is still talk among drivers that this is due to ceramic particles. This conclusion is incorrect, since the high performance of the material was obtained after a strong crystal lattice was obtained. With its production, it became possible to form a strong elastic film.
It will not be possible to polish car bodies coated with such varnish with ordinary polishes, so manufacturers have developed a number of products for polishing such coatings. One of them is the Polar Shine polishing system, which was developed and manufactured by Mirka.
There are two types of such products on sale: C20 and A12. The first is a coarse polishing paste, it is designed to work with two-stage polishing systems such as Polarshine. Agent A12 is used in one-stage paint treatment when there are small or small scratches on the surface of the car body. It can well restore lost qualities; you just need to change the polishing disc in a timely manner.
In addition to these products, you can successfully use the Farecla system paste; it is available in several types and is used for polishing both completely new coatings and car bodies with many years of use. You can also find polishing complexes from Festool, and some other materials.
The purpose of this article is to give car owners an idea of how to polish the varnish on a car. If you still have unclear questions on this topic, watch the video:
Varnishing furniture is made in order to better highlight the texture and color of the wood. It is extremely often used in the manufacture of furniture. But in order to consolidate the result, it certainly needs to be polished after applying the varnish.
You will need
- – wax;
- – shellac;
- – denatured alcohol;
- – polish;
- – drying oil;
- – turpentine;
- - sponges or cloths.
Instructions
1. Polish only well-dried varnished surfaces. Traditionally this is done with alcohol. But in the case when nitro was used varnish coating, use polishing paste and polishing water. This method of processing and fixing varnish is used when finishing fine-grained wood: maple, yew, mahogany and plane tree.
2. Make the polish according to the following scheme: first apply the polish using special swabs thin layers. Repeat this procedure three times, waiting each time for the coating to dry. Apply the first layer in a thick layer, then sand with pumice or a special powder based on it until shiny. Then dry for 3 days. Next, you need to apply a second portion of the material, but without sanding, in order to achieve an even shine. In addition, this part of polishing should also eliminate all small roughness on the wood. It is dried for about 5 days. Apply the third portion as a liquid polish, which brings the surface to mirror shine. Later, polish everything completely with ordinary alcohol without polish.
3. It is also allowed to use not only alcohol, but also oil, wax and shellac for polishing furniture. So let's say linseed oil(natural drying oil) in combination with turpentine is extremely suitable for processing hard wood, say oak. You need to rub it in until it stops being absorbed. After this, it must be left for several hours, after which the excess must be removed.
4. If you want to use wax to polish your furniture, apply it directly over the wood. The best option for these purposes is beeswax, mixed with turpentine to form a soft paste. Apply it in a thick layer and let it dry. And then polish it until it shines.
5. During processing lacquered furniture Shellac produces an exceptionally beautiful shine, but it is quite difficult to work with. And remember that the surface treated with shellac must be protected from exposure to direct rays (it will crack) and from contact with alcohol (it dissolves the coating). Shellac polish should be applied with rapid circular movements. If it is poorly absorbed, then mix the material with drying oil. Shellac usually dries within 24 hours. After which the surface must be carefully and moderately wiped with denatured alcohol.
Before you start polishing furniture, you should choose and equip everyone with the right place to work. It’s best to carry out polishing on outdoors- on the street.
When the surface of the furniture is ready, you should start polishing. For light furniture, oil, varnish and wax are perfect, and for designer furniture- shellac polish.
Video on the topic
The case of excellent watches is in most cases made of metal. During operation, the metal surface receives many scratches that spoil the appearance of the watch. Scratches can be removed by polishing.
You will need
- – rags;
- – velvet;
- – polish or paste;
- – cotton swabs;
- – a set of tools;
- - painting tape.
Instructions
1. Find out the type of metal your watch case is made of by reading the technical data sheet. You should only attempt to polish those watch, the body of which is made of aluminum or steel. It is best to entrust the polishing of gold-plated watches to specialists, because this is a very delicate and difficult job.
2. Disassemble watch, freeing the body from the mechanism. This will make the polishing process much easier. It is also possible to polish without disassembling. Then you need to carefully seal all parts that do not need to be polished. These are glass and inserts made of other materials. For gluing, use paint tape, one that leaves no traces when removed.
3. Clean the surface of the housing from grease and dirt. To do this, take a cotton swab, soak it in alcohol and thoroughly wipe the metal. Afterwards, wipe the body with a clean swab.
4. Buy a polish or a special paste at the store to remove scratches. Consult with the seller, the one who will be able to tell you the advantages and disadvantages of all the goods sold.
5. Take a clean velvet cloth or a napkin for your phone. Apply a little polish to it. Begin to thoroughly and evenly wipe the watch case. Do not rub too long in one place. Polish watch in several approaches until the scratches disappear. Please note that it is impossible to correct very large scratches with home polishing.
6. Wipe the housing with a clean cloth. Collect watch in reverse order. Polish watch it is necessary at least once a year in order to continuously maintain their perfect appearance.
Video on the topic
Helpful advice
If you do not want to get your hands dirty, use rubber medical gloves. Watches and other instruments should be placed on soft fabric. When disassembling the watch, use only a special kit so as not to break or scratch the watch. Do not try to polish your watch with sandpaper!
A beautiful and shiny car, as if it just came out of a showroom window, is the dream and glory of every motorist, however, in order for the car to look perfect, you need to take care of it, namely: learn how to thoroughly polish the car body by hand. However, before you polish your car, you need to prepare.
First of all, preparation consists of thoroughly cleaning the surface of the car using a specialized shampoo, then you need to thoroughly dry the body, because applying a polishing compound to a wet surface is inappropriate. Further, in order to polish the car, it is necessary for its body to cool down. This is significant because the interaction of the polishing compound with the material glued to the surface metal surface can be quite dangerous. The surface of the car is very strong at first glance, but in fact, it is very vulnerable, which is why it is impossible to use hard, grimy fabric, which can damage the coating. It is optimal to use microfiber cloths, which are optimal for adding gloss. It is worth remembering that you need to polish the car in small parts. This is important so that the polishing layer is distributed evenly. Otherwise, the car will not look bright at all. Because car polish is a composition with properties similar to varnish, you should not use one rag for a long time, because slices of hardened polish can damage the paint layer. The polish dries and, in the absence of sufficient separation, looks like a speck, it must be applied in in small numbers, but quite often. Because the most visible part of the car is the roof, you need to polish the car from there, slowly going lower and lower. After painting, the car needs to be polished, however, not with protective preparations. This is necessary in order to ensure natural evaporation of the substances that make up the paint. Such fumes usually last for 2 months. If you follow these rules, you can manually make the car nice and bright.
Polished furniture Even the best quality will become stained and fade over time. Painting is probably the most affordable way transforming cabinets, chests of drawers and other polished interior items.
You will need
- A piece of furniture, a screwdriver, a degreaser, wood putty, medium and fine sandpaper, a hair dryer, a spatula, a rough brush, primer, paints, a roller, brushes.
Instructions
1. Swipe preparatory work. Free the piece of furniture that you are planning to repaint. Remove doors and shelves, remove fasteners (hinges, hooks). Thoroughly degrease polished surfaces using detergent or alcohol. Observe the furniture for chips, cracks, and scratches. If you find them, eliminate them religiously. Carefully remove any cracked varnish around the damaged area and fill the crack with wood putty. When the composition is completely dry, treat the area to be restored with fine-grain sandpaper.
2. There are two methods for repainting polished furniture. If you have a hair dryer, you can completely remove the varnish from the surface. Heat the varnish coating very carefully and scrape it off piece by piece using a spatula. Treat every detail this way. Next, free the wood from the stain layer, to do this, use medium-grit sandpaper. Using a coarse brush, remove dust from the furniture resulting from sanding. Degrease the treated surfaces again.
3. If construction hair dryer was not at hand, you can resort to another method. After eliminating chips and imperfections using putty, carefully treat all polished parts of the furniture with fine-grain sandpaper. The varnished coating is considered ready for painting if it has become dull and covered with scratches from sandpaper. Next, use a rough brush to remove dust. And start decorating, once again degreasing the surface in advance.
4. Apply a coat of wood primer. Prime and sand internal elements drawers, doors and cabinets. Wait for the primer to dry completely. Using fine-grit sandpaper, polish the object to be decorated.
5. The next step is painting. For this purpose, you can use paints, varnish, and stain. Regarding paints, there are no clear rules on what exactly should be used to coat polished furniture. There are coatings with quite cool odors, but at the same time dry quickly. To work you will need a roller or brushes. Carefully paint all the details, making sure that there are no gaps or drips left. After the paint has completely dried, carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, apply a 2nd coat.
Helpful advice
Drawers, doors and shelves are painted on a table covered in advance with plastic wrap.
Polishing is the final process in stone processing, as a result of which its surface acquires a mirror-like shine, revealing the pattern, color and structure of the rock. As usual, stone polished with special devices and in several stages.
Instructions
1. Before polishing stone, you need to grind it in order to remove all traces of the stone after cutting it. Sanding can be divided into three operations: roughing (hard grinding), grinding and finishing - polishing. If you don't have a stone cutting machine, grind the glass.
2. To do this, take glass (6-10 mm thick), pour abrasive powder onto it, moisten it with water and grind in a circular motion. You can also use fine-grit sandpaper for sanding. If you grind stone on the machine, then use a circle made of cast iron, lead or copper. Make sure that the surface of these circles is even and smooth.
3. To polish on a machine, remove the faceplate, then the protective (plastic) body and wash them thoroughly with soap and a brush. Place the cleaned parts back in place. polishing wheel secure, pour a pinch of powder onto the circle, moisten the powder with water and rub it in a circle. You can use aluminum, zinc, chromium oxide, and diamond dust as polishing powders. Turn on the motor and polish stone. But to polish stone on a machine, you can use felt, felt or cloth. Make circles 10-20 mm thick from these materials and stick them on a cast-iron faceplate with shellac, sealing wax, a mixture of sealing wax and rosin or tar, but place sheet rubber between the metal and the polished material. Before polishing, slightly moisten felt, felt, or cloth circles. During grinding or polishing, stone bring and press carefully, the movement of the hand should be directed contrary to the rotation of the circle.
4. If you need to polish hard stones such as granite, jasper, use wheels made from alder, aspen, poplar or beech wood. But make sure that they rotate at a speed of 200 cycles per minute, because at low speed the polishing results best quality. Stones of the same type have different polishing abilities. For each stone, you need to select an individual number and combination of powder, disk rotation speed, and pressure force.
5. To check the quality of stone polishing, wipe the polished surface with a clean cloth, stand near a switched-on electric lamp and try to detect the reflection of a hair from the burning lamp on the surface of the stone. If the reflection is visible, then the polishing was successful. If you do not have polishing tools, then replace the stone polishing with varnish using a colorless varnish.
With the help of a grinder, you can cut different materials: wood, stone, metal and much more. A grinding machine can also remove worn-out coatings or rust. The home DIYer will invariably find use for such a tool.
Instructions
1. Select the appropriate unit model based on your needs. Highly professional machines are able to work longer and more efficiently. Household grinders are less powerful and productive. After 10-15 minutes of using such a device, it must be left to cool for 15-25 minutes. You are allowed to work with a household machine no longer than 2 or 3 hours a day. But such a unit is cheaper and lighter than a professional one.
2. Pay attention to the angle grinder (“grinder”). This multifunctional tool, he is good at processing or cutting metal, brick, tiles, stone and paving stones. This device can also polish and grind different surfaces. Using a wire brush mounted on a grinder, you can remove paint or varnish from metal.
3. Look at the power of the tool. The higher it is, the slower the car heats up. High power will allow you to use discs of larger diameter, and, accordingly, will give you a greater chance of using a grinding machine.
4. For easy grinding and polishing, a grinder with a rotation speed of up to 6,000 rpm and a power of 600-1,000 W is ideal. For hard materials (stone, brick or concrete), take a model with a rotation speed of 6,000 rpm and a power of approximately 2,000 W.
5. Buy an angle grinder that has an adjustable speed of rotation of the abrasive disc. This will expand the probability of the unit. A belt sander is ideal for sanding and smoothing large surfaces.
6. Check the power of the tool. For full operation of a belt sander, its power must be 650 W or higher.
7. For better sanding, a vibratory sander is needed. Delta sanders are designed for processing small surfaces (railings, frames, doors, etc.).
8. An excellent choice is a vibratory sander with a built-in vacuum cleaner. This will protect you from the harmful dust that appears during sanding. For fine workmanship For curved surfaces, select eccentric grinder .
Gone are the days of oil-painted tables, chests of drawers and wardrobes. Society is experiencing an era of polished surfaces. But the polish ages, cracks, and chips during use.
You will need
- Emery cloth, solvents for varnishes and paints, acrylic or alkyd paints of the desired colors, brushes, rags, self-adhesive film.
Instructions
1. Purchase sandpaper and paint thinners from the hardware store. And if furniture If in itself it is still absolutely suitable, it is not difficult to return it to its original form. And if desired, you can change the color to a more current one or one that is especially acceptable in the ensemble of each headset. To do this, before anyone else, you need to get rid of the old polish.
2. If there are chips, remove the old varnish using sandpaper. First, coarse-grained, then fine-grained, slowly, in a circular motion, clean the surface. For ease of work, roll the sandpaper onto a wooden block and secure with small nails. Select the size of the bar according to your hand. If the damage is small and there are no chips, scuffing can be limited to treating the surface with a cloth soaked in solvent.
3. Paint the prepared, degreased surface desired color. Use acrylic or alkyd paints. Oil paints It takes a very long time, by today's standards, to dry. As usual, there is no chance of delaying the renovation process in a city apartment. After the paint has dried, coat the surfaces with clear varnish.
4. There is a less labor-intensive, but no less effective method: updating using self-adhesive film. Measure all areas requiring restoration and record the data. Go to a hardware store and choose a self-adhesive film in the color you like.
5. Remove all metal or plastic protruding parts from the furniture. Wash the surfaces to be covered thoroughly with a soapy cleaning solution. Before applying the film, moisten the surface to be pasted with clean cold water so that the glue does not set immediately. This precaution will allow you to correct the canvas if you immediately place it incorrectly. When laying sheets of film, expel water from the center to the edges.
Note!
It is not advisable to cover long and small parts with film, say, table legs. It would be better to paint them.
Helpful advice
If the work is large in volume, you can use a grinding machine, renting it or renting it from friends. The work will go faster.
The appearance of your polished furniture does not make you happy. It became speckled and faded. So it's time to update it. Painting is the most available method transform cabinets, chests of drawers and other polished interior items.
You will need
- - dye;
- - sandpaper;
- – screwdriver;
- – ;spatula, brush, roller
- – composition for etching;
- – primer;
- – washing powder;
- - a wood treatment product.
Instructions
1. First, do the preparatory work. Remove doors and shelves. Remove fasteners from furniture (hooks, door handles, hinges).
2. Clean the dismantled parts. To remove paint, dip them in an etching solution. Rinse all parts thoroughly and dry. Solution washing powder Wash all interior and exterior surfaces of furniture.
3. Now prepare the surface of the furniture for painting. Remove the old covering. To do this, use a hair dryer to heat the top layer of the coating. Start with small areas.
4. Take a spatula and carefully remove the old varnish with it. Be careful not to damage the surface of the furniture; on the contrary, its appearance will deteriorate and extra work will be added.
5. Sand the surface using grinder or sandpaper. For comfort, stick it on the block.
6. Work the surface of the furniture using circular motions until it becomes rough and matte. Treat the exposed tree structure with protective agents - insecticides and fungicides.
7. You can occasionally find chips and large scratches on shabby furniture. Take wood putty and cover up all the imperfections. Repair areas need to be thoroughly cleaned.
8. Apply a coat of wood primer. Don't forget to prime and sand the inside of your cabinets. Wait until completely dry. Take fine-grit sandpaper and polish the surface of the furniture.
9. Paint polished furniture with alkyd paint. Start with the recessed planes. Apply paint to the upper inner part of the wall, then to the sides and bottom.
10. Paint the outer surface of the furniture with a roller. Make sure that there are no gaps or smudges. If necessary, apply a 2nd coat of paint. Paint drawers, shelves and doors on a table that has been covered in advance with plastic wrap.