You probably won't mind that kitchen incense isn't always breathtakingly beautiful. To avoid this, careful ventilation is needed.
Ventilation in the kitchen with a hood
Compared to conventional ventilation systems, the kitchen hood performs its function forcibly and works with heated and polluted air. Based on this, it must be protected from exposure high temperatures and vapors from boiling fat and oil.
As with other built-in appliances, hoods must match the size of the kitchen space. As well as the area of the cooking panel over which they are mounted. If its air intake hood completely covers the stove, then the leakage of purified air will be insignificant. This explains the popularity among buyers of models with an umbrella width of 600x900mm, similar to the size of standard hobs.
The height of the ventilation hood is placed based on convenience and requirements fire safety. The lower, if possible, the better. In a word, the required distance between the stove and the umbrella: 500-650 mm.
It is important to select a hood with performance based on the volume of the kitchen: for example, for a kitchen with a volume of 30 m3, a device that processes 300 m3/hour of air is suitable.
Ventilation in the kitchen with a volume of about 30 cubic meters
Any exhaust ventilation works quite normally if infiltration is created correctly - the flow of external fresh air into the room. It is provided by a forced ventilation device, provided with means of heating the incoming air from the outside. Additional small-sized air supply units Suitable for apartments just right. Thanks to them, windows (not plastic) and doors can be reliably sealed.
Ventilation of a kitchen equipped with a gas stove
Nowadays, in many homes in rural areas They install gas stoves in kitchens, which are used not only for cooking, but also for feeding livestock. Water heating devices are also installed here. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure reliable air exchange, which affects the temperature and humidity conditions of the entire building.
For example, the internal air volume in a kitchen with a four-burner gas stove should be from 15, and together with a water heater - at least 21 cubic meters. The height of the kitchen space is at least 2.2 meters. It must have a window with a window and an exhaust ventilation duct.
But this is not enough. The concentration of carbon monoxide and water vapor (combustion of 1.0 m3 of gas releases 2 liters of steam) during the day can create a microclimate worse than in a forge. In addition to duct ventilation, you will have to equip the gas stove with a hood (if you have a water heater, this is mandatory).
Plastic ventilation for kitchen
Boxes. Ventilation ducts for connecting an exhaust device can also be made of colored PVC (round or flat section) with diameters of 100, 125 or 150 mm. They fit harmoniously into a modern kitchen interior.
Plastic boxes for kitchen ventilation
The most popular duct for domestic hoods is a 125 mm air duct with a throughput capacity of 400 m3/hour. The smooth surface of the plastic box provides minimal resistance to air movement. It is silent, durable and easy to care for.
Flaws:
more high price regarding galvanized ducts and flexible air ducts;
the presence of many components and limited sizes of produced PVC channels.
Advantages:
- smooth surface and aesthetic appearance;
— density and strength of the connection, durability;
- easy and quick cleaning.
Subtleties of installation of plastic air ducts. Most of the contaminated air is discharged through the ventilation duct, which makes it difficult to install the hood and connect it to the air duct, because The layout and furnishings of kitchens do not always allow the installation of a hood next to it. A large length of the air duct (with many bends) reduces the efficiency of the exhaust system, and noise increases.
Restoring ventilation in the kitchen
The ventilation system must be cleaned regularly. It is recommended to do this in a timely manner. If a day after a thorough cleaning of the house you can again see piles of wool and dust in the secluded corners, and the floor is covered with a gray dusty haze, then it’s time to clean the ventilation. Stuffiness and heat, especially in the kitchen, are also signs of decreased performance of the ventilation system. A sheet of paper brought to the ventilation grille does not move - again, there are problems with it. Many people believe that ventilation restoration should be done by specialists.
Restoring the ventilation duct has several stages:
1. First, access to the air ducts is provided - they are dismantled earlier arranged ceilings and walls, cut out (if necessary) the required part of the tiles on the floor.
2. Materials are selected for installing missing or damaged elements (air ducts and inter-channel partitions).
3. Spare parts are inserted into place and carefully secured.
4. After resuscitating the internal contents, they begin to recreate the box itself. The materials most often are high-strength foam blocks or gypsum tiles, which have high noise insulation, water resistance and fire resistance. The use of other materials is not advisable.
5. At the end of the restoration, the functioning of the ventilation and the surface decorative finishing of the box are checked.
Installation of ventilation in the kitchen
The air duct should not tightly close the ventilation duct, otherwise when the device is turned off, the exhaust will continue due to natural draft. A draft, especially in the kitchen, is harmful to health. During the design of the hood, it is necessary to ensure that the air duct is as short as possible, with the least number of turns and bends, and that its walls remain smooth.
When choosing the type of exhaust device, they are guided by the distance of the exhaust ventilation duct from the cooking stove, as noted above. Moreover, they take into account that the larger the diameter of the outlet adapter from the hood to the air duct, the less energy will be needed for efficient work ventilation.
When choosing a hood, pay attention to performance. Here it is not advisable to overdo it with its power. The hood is selected according to the diameter exhaust duct, because the efficiency of its functioning is affected not so much by the fan power as by the cross-section of the hole ventilation duct. Otherwise, with insignificant efficiency, the electric fan will consume an excessive amount of energy and “choke” from the effort, pushing a large volume of air through a channel that is too wide. Fans at low to medium speeds provide better performance.
High-quality ventilation of a house (apartment), especially auxiliary premises, is not an element of home comfort, but a serious necessity, and your health directly depends on it. No need to rely on modern systems air conditioning: they do not purify the air, but only heat or cool it.
In conclusion, it should be noted that when planning to build a house, think about air exchange in advance, in the project, and when purchasing housing, pay special attention to the ventilation device!
Just a couple of decades ago, the ventilation system in the kitchen performed the functions of an orderly and a cleaner in one device. First of all, it was necessary to fight odors, the hot air cloud surrounding the stove, and dust and grease deposits on the furniture, without which not a single cooking process can be done. The modern version of kitchen ventilation is mainly aimed at effective and complete protection against toxic carbon fumes and gases, saving heat and electricity.
The main components of ventilation for the kitchen
The normal state of the atmosphere in a room where gas or electric stove, a large number of odors and fumes are formed, which can be maintained thanks to three main components of kitchen ventilation:
- Forced ventilation, usually a hood in the form of an umbrella or horn mounted above hob. For a large kitchen, there may be several points of intake of polluted flow or just windows in the air ducts. The exhaust ventilation system accounts for up to 90% of the load on cleaning the atmosphere of the kitchen, and sometimes the entire apartment;
- Natural supply and exhaust ventilation, based on ventilation ducts built into the building structure. Simple and reliable way removing air flow due to natural draft in a brick ventilation shaft of a high-rise building. Provides 20-25% of the maximum demand for fresh air. This is enough to create comfortable atmosphere in the apartment, but clearly not enough to fully combat gas combustion products and fumes.
You definitely need to remember window ventilation transoms and supply valves. As a rule, they are not mentioned, considering them simply a way to ventilate the kitchen and apartment. But exactly air supply devices allow you to effectively control the flow of fresh air into the apartment and kitchen, ensuring minimal heat loss.
The method of planning and constructing a ventilation system in the kitchen largely depends on the layout and condition of the apartment. In new apartment projects, there may be no natural duct ventilation, but in this case there must be a forced air flow removal system.
Apartments dating back to Soviet times, as a rule, were equipped small kitchens with mandatory ventilation outlets, most often without umbrella hoods. Owners installed and connected horns or umbrellas to exhaust ducts mostly on their own.
This doesn't mean that natural ventilation in the kitchen of an apartment with an old layout it does not cope with its functions. The simplified kitchen ventilation system provided sufficient power, but its configuration and location did not prevent the deposition of grease and dust deposits on the walls and furniture of the kitchen, and sometimes the apartment.
Installation of a ventilation system with natural air flow
Kitchen ventilation system in an apartment multi-storey building has certain advantages in comparison with the operating conditions of ventilation in the kitchen of private housing construction:
- The section of the ventilation pipe rising from the kitchen to the roof is located at a height of at least 16-18 m. A decent height provides two to three times greater level of natural draft than in the pipe of a one or two-story house;
- The kitchen ventilation shaft is combined into one package with ducts from other apartments; the entire shaft is closed and isolated from the outside atmosphere. As a result, polluted air remains long time warm and guaranteed to climb to the ejection point on the roof.
Tall pipes provide a sufficient level of vacuum in the kitchen ventilation system, but this is not enough. The presence of draft in itself is always welcome, but you also need to be able to correctly configure the operation of natural ventilation.
Improving the natural ventilation system
As a rule, the intake window for natural ventilation in the kitchen is always located on main wall- a partition separating two adjoining apartments. The distance from the air intake grille of the ventilation duct to the supply valve or window transom is only 1.5-2 m. With this layout, all kitchen ventilation is reduced to a powerful draft between the window and the ventilation duct grille. The rest of the room is filled with gas combustion products, hot and humid air, which spread throughout the apartment. There are several ways to fix ventilation in the kitchen yourself.
Most effective method boils down to this:
- Along the perimeter of the kitchen ceiling, a closed or horseshoe-shaped box of ventilation pipes with several air intake grating windows is installed;
- The outlets from the air ducts are connected to the intake window of the kitchen ventilation shaft;
- Fresh air supply valves are installed in the window frame above the window sill;
- To capture hot air, the slabs are equipped with a cone or umbrella air intake with an individual air duct leading directly to the common ventilation duct.
In order not to introduce dissonance into the kitchen interior, ventilation pipes usually hidden under the lining of a suspended ceiling, for example, made of PVC or MDF boards.
Important! Between the ceiling ventilation in the kitchen and the umbrella air duct, you need to install a bypass valve that blocks the flow of hot air from one pipe to another.
If, according to the conditions for installing ventilation in the kitchen, the ceiling height is clearly insufficient, then the air ducts are masked with material to match the finish of the furniture cabinets, and the intake windows are moved to the back or side wall of the ventilation duct.
There are also projects for embedding boxes into kitchen walls, but such a solution is only possible if washable wallpaper or wall tiles are used in the kitchen and apartment.
Solving ventilation problems in the kitchen
A distinctive feature of the above diagram is the unusual location of the supply valve. Setting the ventilation inflow in the kitchen at a height of 100-110 cm is considered too low. For normal window fogging, supply valves are installed either above window frame, or on the wall above the radiator. In fact, similar rules apply to the residential premises of an apartment, where there are no powerful heat sources in the form of an electric stove, and the intensity of air movement is 2-3 times lower than in the kitchen.
If an electric hob or oven is installed in the kitchen, the air becomes so dry that in cold weather you have to place water containers on the windowsill or use a special factory-made humidifier.
A problem with condensation in the ventilation system is possible when using gas stoves or oven. On average, per hour of operation of a powerful gas appliance, 1.5-2 m 3 of water vapor is formed, which precipitates in the form of condensation on the walls of the ventilation pipes.
To avoid such a problem, it is enough to wrap the pipes in fiber thermal insulation, which will also serve as sound insulation. In a situation where an abnormally large amount of condensate falls in the pipes, it will be necessary to install a liquid drain.
Most often, this situation occurs when ventilation is installed incorrectly in the kitchen adjacent to the bathroom, for example, if the common air duct pipes are laid on the wall with a slope towards the kitchen area. In this case, you have to redo the entire ventilation of the apartment or use forced ventilation in the kitchen.
Often the problem is with condensation falling around the ventilation grille in the kitchen, even when there are no air ducts in the room, and the air flow is through a valve on the opposite wall.
In this case, there is only one way to deal with condensation - by installing a low-speed electric fan with low air flow pressure on the grille. This will allow, firstly, to remove condensation from the adjacent surface of the walls, and secondly, it will not interfere with the operation of the ventilation duct, and at the same time irritate the noise emitted by the rotating blades.
Increasing the efficiency of a natural draft umbrella
In a relatively small kitchen, ventilation is often equipped according to a simplified scheme. Do-it-yourself horn or umbrella air intake is installed above the stove or hob, and the outlet is through flexible pipe connected to the ventilation duct.
Most odors and contaminated air are removed without much difficulty, but the efficiency of the system, especially in summer time, remains in best case scenario on the Middle level.
To improve the performance of the design, you can use the following technique:
You can choose a supply valve model equipped with a carbon monoxide or carbon monoxide sensor. In this case, the system will start automatically when the stove is operated for more than 10 minutes. Due to the excess pressure in the kitchen created by the supply fan, almost all the hot air will be forced out into the horn air intake or accelerated throughout the apartment.
Organization of kitchen ventilation systems in a new apartment
Over the past twenty to thirty years, nothing fundamentally new has been invented in the construction of kitchen ventilation systems. Everything is the same as before, air contaminated with fumes and gas combustion products is displaced by a fresh air flow, then collected by air intakes and removed outside the kitchen.
A novelty can be considered the use of a new type ventilation devices recuperative-absorbing type, capable of purifying and renewing the atmosphere of the kitchen with a minimal influx of fresh air. But such absorbers are used only in a limited number of cases and cannot replace full ventilation for the kitchen part of the apartment, especially if the room uses gas appliances - stoves or ovens.
In what cases is it necessary to install forced ventilation?
The answer sounds more than simple, the larger the size of the kitchen room and the amount of equipment in it, the greater the chance that ventilation should only be supply and exhaust, forced type.
Modern ventilation in the kitchen in an apartment more effectively copes with the tasks of air purification due to the rational organization of the process of collecting polluted air:
- Zoning the ventilation system of the kitchen and the entire apartment as a whole;
- Flexible adjustment of the performance of both the supply and exhaust parts of the ventilation system;
- The use of modern cartridges that absorb water vapor, fatty fumes, blocking noise emitted by fans and air flows;
- Reduced energy consumption, prevention of excess heat loss with removed air.
In modern apartments of a new layout with high ceilings and a kitchen with an area of 12-15 m2, the issue of saving heat and electricity became especially acute. At existing requirements and SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10 standards for ventilation and ventilation of a room of 45-50 m 3 would require fans with a power of 700-1200 W. In addition to energy costs, a large kitchen in an apartment with conventional ventilation constantly loses heat, becomes cold and damp.
The optimal ventilation unit for a modern kitchen
The most preferable design for any kitchen in a modern apartment is a ventilation network with a central filter-ventilation unit.
The ventilation system can be connected to the general distribution of pipes and fans for the entire apartment or supplemented with an individual fan monoblock.
Such a block is equipped with a system of filters, valves and fans, at least three mounting flanges, to which several ventilation pipes are connected.
Forced ventilation layout
The main elements of the ventilation system of a full-size kitchen today remain horn and umbrella air intakes. First of all, an air inlet is installed above the hob, regardless of what type of equipment is used, electric or gas powered.
Gas stoves produce large amounts of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide, electric and even induction hob burns a lot of oxygen, so the air intake above the stove must be selected with two fans and a built-in dust and grease filter.
A smaller air intake horn is installed above the sink and oven. Based on the preferences of the owners, umbrella ventilation with fresh cooled air can be discharged on the ceiling in the center or above the dining table.
In addition, individual elements of the ventilation system can be installed above the cutting area on the countertop. Most often, this is a filter-ventilation unit with a carbon or zeolite cartridge that actively absorbs odors and volatile substances.
In the location sector dining table In addition to the absorber, a ceiling or wall unit can be installed, connected by a separate air duct to the supply valve. As a result of the zoned supply of fresh air and the selection of contaminated air, it is possible to achieve heat savings for air conditioning of the room by almost 30%.
Where to install the central unit
Unlike offices and private homes, in the kitchen ordinary apartment There's not a lot of room to mount a central unit. Most often, fan equipment is hidden in wall cabinets, for example, above the sink or above the cutting area of the countertop.
In this case, you have to sacrifice some usable space cabinets for mounting the fan system, control unit and air ducts. According to the most conservative estimates, the built-in ventilation system takes up 10-15% of the usable volume of cabinets, which is not always convenient.
If the ceiling height allows, then it will be more practical to install the block and pipes behind the suspended cladding. Very convenient, but for installation you have to use reinforced metal carcass and a removable panel providing periodic access to the ventilation equipment.
Conclusion
One of the kitchen ventilation schemes in an apartment, which may become the most popular option in the future, involves the use of thermal energy from heated air. The hot steam-air flow rising from the surface of the heated plate gives off most of the energy to the built-in heat accumulator. The heat can be stored for 3 to 10 hours and can be used to produce hot water, heating the atmosphere of any living space in an apartment or house.
As a rule, this issue can be resolved by cleaning the ventilation shaft or sorting out errors when installing such a system, but if you still cannot find the right solution, pay attention to forced hoods.
High-quality ventilation will help remove carbon dioxide and other fumes from the apartment or house.
IN modern premises equipped with plastic windows, it will be difficult to ensure sufficient air flow. Let's figure out how to make forced exhaust, and through what mechanisms such designs allow you to clean the air in the room.
Pros and cons of forced exhaust
Forced exhaust system involves installing one or more fans in the room instead of standard grilles. During operation, they promote the flow from the air duct clean air and removed from the premises unpleasant odors, harmful substances, moisture and dust.
The mechanical system allows you to purify the air in the room with greater efficiency. Many fans of this type can be adjusted by independently changing the power and rotation speed.
To the benefits of installation forced exhaust include:
- possibility of faster air purification in the room;
- long service life and high-quality functioning regardless of weather conditions or the condition of ventilation pipes;
- opportunity independent regulation of air outflow and inflow.
Because the This type of fan operates automatically, when the power in the house is turned off, you will not be able to ensure proper ventilation of the room. In addition, forced-type fans can be quite expensive, taking into account the need to set up equipment and connect to the network.
Periodically, parts of such a system, as well as filters, will have to be replaced with new ones, and it is not always possible to notice problems in time.
There are several variations of forced ventilation of houses and apartments, so before deciding on a purchase, study in detail the features of their operation.
Do not forget that forced exhaust in an apartment will work properly only if the basic installation rules are followed: it is better to entrust this matter to specialists if you do not fully understand the features of these processes.
Features of forced ventilation systems
Today, it is possible to ensure the flow of purified air into rooms through several mechanisms. Ventilation in the house can be supply and exhaust(these are single installations that do not require additional equipment), typesetting supply, exhaust, and also be carried out due to the operation of a ducted air conditioner.
If the room is installed metal-plastic windows blocking the access of fresh air, ventilation must be ensured by installing special valves in window profile.
According to the recommendations of experts, It is supply and exhaust systems that can provide the best ventilation of home spaces. This design is a system consisting of a fan (a noise-insulated housing reduces the volume of its operation), an automation module, as well as special filters and sensors that affect the quality of operation.
When such a system is turned off, cold air does not enter the room, since a special damper in the housing prevents its further spread.
Thanks to the work of the supply- exhaust systems You can provide comprehensive indoor air purification. Some varieties of such structures allow you to warm the air if necessary.
Attention! The cost of fans of this type will directly depend on their performance. For small rooms Fans of 150 cubic meters per hour are suitable. The maximum power of forced hoods of this type is about 750 cubic meters at one o'clock
A standard forced air hood includes one fan, so it is ineffective in rooms with large parameters. However, in small spaces it can easily cope with the processes of air purification and removal of harmful substances.
The stacked supply ventilation includes similar elements, but they are not mounted in a common housing. Usually, the fan, filters and other components of such systems are placed separately.
The average capacity of such a ventilation system can vary significantly, from 80 to 7 thousand cubic meters per hour.
Another method of ventilation is duct type air conditioners– do not have high performance indicators. On average, they will help purify about 20% of the air in the room. Additional filters, as well as heating blocks, will help solve some of the difficulties associated with their operation.
You can increase the efficiency of forced ventilation systems by constructing an attractive structure directly in the window area. Supply valves are mounted in the window profile, and fans and humidity sensors are installed in the shafts. As humidity levels increase, the built-in fans will automatically turn on and the air in the room will be purified. Through valves installed in the windows, fresh air will enter your home.
Important! The only thing negative property of such systems lies in the lack of ability to regulate the temperature of air coming from the street during the hot and cold seasons.
There are no clear criteria determining which type of forced exhaust hood is best placed in a house or apartment.
But if you want to get an effective result, follow these recommendations:
- for 1- and 2-room premises, hoods with a capacity of 200-300 cubic meters per hour are sufficient;
- in apartments with a large number of rooms, the productivity of such a hood should be about 350-500 cubic meters per hour;
- static pressure indicators for apartments with 2-3 rooms should exceed 400 Pa.
It is worth noting that Features of installation and operation of such hoods may differ depending on their purpose.
Let's talk about how to connect a forced ventilation system in rooms where this approach is considered the most common - in the bathroom and kitchen.
Connection in the apartment
When installing a forced hood in the kitchen think about how to supply power into such a system. There are two effective ways: in the first case, the connection is made directly to the power box, in the second – the system is powered via an outlet.
If you chose the first option, plan the main work in advance. Only after the necessary communications have been carried out can you begin to secure the system and select exhaust mechanisms.
Important! Consider how the processed air will exit the room. The design can discharge air into a ventilation shaft or directly to the street through an open space.
Installing the equipment will not cause you any particular difficulties: fans of this type are quite compact, like all the accompanying elements, and if necessary, you can learn more about the features of their fastening from consultants. As a rule, the fan grille is fixed to the wall with screws.
Advice: If there is a gas water heater in the kitchen, the need for powerful ventilation of the room increases. To solve this problem, you can purchase a ready-made column with forced exhaust: high-quality and safe equipment this type is produced by Bosch and others.
To install a forced exhaust hood in the bathroom, you need to install a grille with a fan in the exhaust vent. It is already in the room, so there is no need to make additional holes in the wall. It is necessary to provide power supply to the fan installation area. Most fans have standard sizes, but in any case, make sure that the area of the hole in the wall does not have to be adjusted to the parameters of such a design.
Since ventilation equipment designed for the bathroom must work efficiently even in high humidity, choose carefully suitable model. Fans with the special IPx4 marking are suitable for you. Experts recommend choosing equipment with check valves so that polluted air or unpleasant odors from the kitchen and other areas do not enter the bathroom.
Regulation of draft in the chimney
Forced exhaust can also be used to regulate draft in the chimney. More often This problem occurs in private homes: The traction power is affected by the cross-sectional size of the pipe.
The smaller the diameter of the pipe, the less draft is provided in such a channel, and when the critical minimum cross-section of the chimney is reached, accumulation of combustion products is possible both inside the structure and in the room itself.
If the cross-section of the pipe increases, cold air may enter the room through the chimney, which will prevent the free exit of combustion products to the outside. This suggests that independent traction control may not always be effective. There are other reasons that influence the increase or decrease in draft in such rooms, and forced draft for the chimney can help.
The design intended for the chimney is practically no different from the exhaust fans described above. Smoke fan too works on the basis of electricity and automatically removes smoke from the duct, increasing the traction in the room.
Attention! For full-fledged work For such equipment, it is necessary to connect a separate power supply line with a voltage of 220 V.
You have seen that in many cases, connecting a forced exhaust can be almost the only way out of the problem of air purification in an isolated room. Such designs can be used in both private and apartment buildings.
Since the purchase and professional installation of forced exhaust systems can be expensive, you can study their features yourself: we suggest watching a video that will inform you about some aspects of such work.
Household men, as you know, strive to do every little thing in the house with their own hands in order to be sure of the result. It was they who probably came up with the worldly wisdom that if you want it done well, you have to do it yourself.
Many, in an effort to improve the convenience and beauty of the interior, even get to the kitchen ventilation system.
2 Classification of types of ventilation systems in the kitchen
When developing kitchen ventilation with your own hands, first of all you should decide which type of hood is most suitable for the kitchen, so that incorrect choice its type did not lead to unwanted redevelopment of the premises or disruption of the kitchen interior. Or vice versa, if your plans include a radical redevelopment and a complete change in the interior of the room, then under new interior no less important.
At the moment, there are several main types of this technology:
- Dome hood– traditional and most common option. Suitable for most classic kitchens.
- Hanging– a flat hood, often mounted between the hob and a wall cabinet. Does not violate the overall style of the interior.
- Corner hood– suitable for kitchens with a small area, in which, due to lack of space, the stove is located in the corner.
- Island hood– designed for kitchens whose area allows the hob to be placed on a kind of island in the middle of the room. This hood is installed to bring the interior of the room closer to the look of a professional kitchen.
- – mounted in a closet, hiding from prying eyes its main part, as well as air ducts. An excellent option for those who do not want to disrupt the overall style and interior design.
Having decided which type of hood is right for you, you can begin to study the intricacies of installing a ventilation system with your own hands.
2.1 Self-installation and dismantling of kitchen ventilation systems
When installing a ventilation system with your own hands, it is important to initially correctly calculate the required exhaust power. The wrong choice of performance can lead to incorrect operation of the entire system.
Calculating the hood power is the key to proper operation of the system
There is a standard formula for calculating hood power: this is the volume of the room multiplied by 12. The volume of the room can be simply calculated by multiplying its area by its height. And the number 12 is the recommended standard for the number of air updates in the kitchen in one hour.
2.2 Selecting the right ductwork for your ventilation system
Having calculated the required power hood, you also need to select a pipe to connect the hood to the ventilation shaft, which is easy to reach by dismantling the one that hides it decorative grille. Only choice correct diameter and pipe length will ensure optimal performance of the ventilation system.
The most common options are and. The diameter of the air duct must be selected based on the size of the exhaust outlet of the hood. In no case should you install a pipe of a smaller diameter, as this will lead to a loss of system performance and an increased noise level during its operation.
When installing a pipe connecting the hood to the ventilation shaft, it is advisable to avoid large quantity sharp turns of the air duct, as this will inevitably have a detrimental effect on power. If you cannot do without turns at all, it is advisable to make them smooth, with a large radius, or make one 90-degree bend in two stages of 45.
When the air duct is led not into the ventilation shaft, but directly to the street, the outlet of the pipe must be equipped with a grille, as well as check valve. at the same time, it will serve as protection against foreign objects getting into the air duct, and the check valve will not allow air flows to create reverse draft.
The importance of proper supply ventilation
Unlike the times when most apartment buildings were designed, and ventilation indicators were calculated based on bandwidth wooden windows, most of the current apartments are already equipped with plastic windows, which let in significantly less outside air.
This should also be taken into account when making calculations, since in this case, when the hood is operating, air will begin to flow from the remaining rooms of the apartment, as well as from the ventilation shaft located in the bathroom. Having gotten rid of one problem, we will thus create the next one. This can be avoided by building in external wall supply ventilation. Essentially, this is a piece of pipe through which, when the atmosphere in the kitchen becomes rarefied, air from outside begins to flow in.
Such a system should also be equipped with a grille and a check valve, but now this valve no longer allows air from the kitchen to escape outside. And the grille, traditionally, protects the air duct from debris and foreign objects. It is best to place them behind a heating radiator so that the air coming from outside has time to warm up slightly.
The diameter of the pipe should be calculated based on the power of the hood, as well as the intensity of its use. In order not to complicate your task, sometimes, with low power hoods, it is enough to equip a plastic window in the kitchen with a supply valve.
To be demolished or not to demolish the ventilation duct?
Many, when remodeling a kitchen, decide to demolish it, which, in their opinion, does not bring any benefit, but only takes up space. usable area premises. Under no circumstances should you do this.
This box is not only an interior element. It is also part of the general building natural ventilation system, and its demolition will inevitably lead to disruption of the ventilation shaft. Not only will the ventilation of your apartment be disrupted, but also the smells from neighboring apartments may become your regular guests.
In addition, demolition of the box is simply prohibited, which can lead to problems if unauthorized redevelopment of this type is detected by the competent authorities. In addition to fines, you may also be required to restore the ventilation duct in the kitchen.
So, when changing the layout of the room, this opportunity should be abandoned. Therefore, since it cannot be removed, it can be produced decorative finishing, harmoniously fitting it into the overall style of the interior.
2.3 Rules for the operation and prevention of the kitchen ventilation system
Correct operation is the key to system efficiency
When installing and subsequently using the ventilation system in the kitchen, important rule should become “do no harm.” Interventions to the original ventilation system when remodeling a kitchen should be such that they improve the original air exhaust system, and do not reduce its performance.
As mentioned above, when developing a ventilation system project and remodeling a room, you need to refuse to demolish the ventilation duct, as this is fraught negative consequences for you and your neighbors.
Incorrect selection of exhaust power also affects the performance of the ventilation system. A hood that is too weak will not be able to clean the air in a timely manner, and a hood that is too strong for the given volume of the room will lead to an imbalance of air flows.
Also, one of the keys to long-term operation of the system is its timely prevention.
Timely prevention is the key to longevity and a way to save money
It is well known that during the operation of any equipment it is better to carry out preventive maintenance on time than to subsequently carry out expensive repairs. Prevention of ventilation systems should be carried out regularly, and this is a fairly simple procedure that can also be done with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists.
Air ducts should be inspected at least once a year and, if necessary, cleaned of soot and dust. Also, you should clean the grille located at the end of the exhaust duct if it is vented outside. It is equally important to clean the supply ventilation grille.
Maintenance of the grease trap located on the hood should be carried out as it becomes dirty. Sometimes it is enough to wash the grille with warm soapy water, without using aggressive detergents or hard metal brushes.
The wrong choice of detergent can ruin it by damaging its coating. And the frequency of replacing the carbon filter must be calculated based on the intensity of use of the hood.
In general, the issue of installing a ventilation system yourself is quite broad, but we hope that the information presented in our article helped you figure out some of the nuances associated with this type of work. And the air ventilation system, installed by you yourself, will serve well, delighting with its functionality and complementing the interior of the kitchen.
As a result of widespread use plastic windows In the kitchens of our houses, natural ventilation, which was provided by wooden frames, was disrupted. Meanwhile, effective ventilation in the kitchen is essential.
Moreover, it needs to be organized with skill, so that instead of extracting kitchen air, you do not get an influx of “aromas” from neighboring apartments or from the toilet. Are you also concerned about this problem, but you don’t know where to start? In our material we will talk about arranging ventilation in the kitchen. We will tell you about the types of hoods and the nuances of their installation.
Majority domestic apartments equipped with stoves that use natural gas. During its combustion, it forms carbon dioxide, the toxic properties of which appear as its concentration in the air increases.
The most reasonable and modern solution to this problem is to install a hood and forced ventilation premises.
A modern hood is an indispensable attribute of the kitchen if it has a gas stove: with its help you can remove unburned and carbon dioxide from the room
So, ventilation is necessary even if the gas stove is working perfectly. The need for it increases with errors in equipment settings, which can cause the release of carbon monoxide. It is much more dangerous than carbon dioxide, and its presence may not be noticed: this gas has neither color nor odor.
In addition, pipeline or natural gas may not burn completely, accumulating in the air. There are situations when the burner flame goes out. For example, it was filled with “escaped” milk. If there is no special protection, then the gas entering the room can provoke an explosion that can cause trouble throughout the house.
It turns out that when starting to work with a gas stove, you need to immediately turn on the exhaust fan. But the presence of an electric stove in the kitchen does not reduce the importance of ventilation of this room.
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Most often, modern buyers prefer built-in models. They are cheaper and easy to install yourself.
Schematic diagram of a kitchen hood
Any hood includes the following elements:
- Fan with electric motor. A multi-speed asynchronous motor rotates the exhaust fan, which forces air flow through grease-retaining filters.
- Filters. All hoods are equipped with a reusable or disposable. Carbon filters are present only in circulating models and act similarly to activated carbon. They are replaced every 3-4 months of operation.
- Lighting lamps. The hob is illuminated using incandescent, LED or halogen lighting fixtures.
- Speed switching diagram. In different models, speed switching is carried out different ways: using touch devices, using buttons or using a slide switch.
Take a look at the standard hood electrical circuit, which contains all the elements mentioned above.
Ensuring the safety of the structure
The exhaust equipment kit must include a fan, which means that the hood must be connected to an outlet. If you have just started repairs in new apartment, be sure to provide a separate outlet for the hood, because this equipment must always be connected.
The occupancy of the outlet by a single device allows you to hide it behind the elements of the furniture set. But don't forget to make it easy to access. There is one more important rule: the socket should be located no closer than 60 cm from the sink and from the stove.
Remember that this hood is an electrical appliance that can cause electric shock, so electrical safety issues must be taken seriously.
The kitchen, like the bathroom, is a room that can be both hot and humid at the same time. Excess moisture and cooking grease settles on the hood grate. This creates favorable conditions for electrical breakdown on the metal casing from the fan motor. It is for this reason that the device should be connected to electrical network using three wires.
The wiring must include zero, phase and ground. The ground wire can be easily identified by its yellow insulation and longitudinal green stripe. Modern houses are equipped in advance with European sockets and a grounding circuit. In this case, it is enough to connect the grounding wire to the corresponding terminal of the plug. It is easy to distinguish it from others by its icon in the form of three parallel lines of different sizes.
Older buildings may not have grounding loops. In this case, you need to take care of protection yourself. In the event of a breakdown on the housing, grounding will allow the circuit breaker to turn off. In addition, it is necessary for potential equalization.
How to make protective grounding yourself?
To build in an old house protective grounding, it is absolutely not necessary to dig a trench and drive it into the ground metal pins. You cannot ground exhaust equipment to a water supply system, a heating plant, and, especially, to gas pipe. This is dangerous not only for you, but also for your neighbors.
To install grounding in an old house, you need to find a dead neutral and connect to it. To do this, open the input panel in your entrance or apartment. The wires entering it are enclosed in a pipe, which is walled up in the wall. There should be a threaded pin on it, possibly with previously connected ground connections. This is the desired solid neutral: the pipe is reliably grounded.
You need to take a flexible stranded wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2 and run it from the neutral to the location where the socket is installed. The hood should be connected to the network using a 6.3 Ampere circuit breaker.
The socket is hidden behind the elements of the built-in furniture, but access to it is very easy: just open the desired door
As mentioned above, there may be other ground connections on the solid neutral. They cannot be turned off. You should place your terminal over the existing ones and secure it with a nut. At smooth surface neutral to secure the grounding, you can use a clamp. It would be great if an electrician from your Management Company takes part in this work.
Possible ventilation problems
When installing the hood, the standard ventilation system apartments. An attempt to solve this problem is to punch specifically for the hood additional hole outside or into the ventilation duct. But the desired effect cannot be achieved this way. The cross-sectional area of the same ventilation duct does not increase when another hole appears in it.
If a successful combination of circumstances occurs, only ¾ of the children from the kitchen will go into the canal, and ¼ will remain in the apartment. If there is a strong wind outside or there is a draft from the lower floors, then all the fumes will return to the kitchen or go to the neighbors, which can result in damaged relations with them.
As for venting air outside through a hole in the wall, this affects Basic structure. Such work must be pre-coordinated and a draft of the changes made must be drawn up. In addition, this solution creates the risk of condensation settling both in the air duct and on the fan motor. Then a breakdown to the body is almost inevitable.
The operation diagram of a hood with a clapper clearly reveals the principle of its operation: air masses will not flow through the air duct back into the kitchen area
As a way out of this situation, it is proposed to use additional plot air box equipped with a flapper valve. The diagram of this device is shown below.
Under the exhaust duct you need a window in the shape of a square, the side of which is ¾ of the diameter of the duct. This allows its cross-sectional area to correspond to a similar area of the duct. The perimeter will be slightly smaller than the circumference of the duct. Then there will be no difficulty connecting.
The damper can be made of aluminum 0.5 mm thick or from fluoroplastic or fiberglass of the same thickness. A product made of aluminum is preferable, because not only the rigidity and thickness of the material is important, but also its lightness. The firing of the firecracker will be more effective with less specific gravity the material from which it was made.
The damper is equipped with a weak, thin spring. Its function is this: when the damper is raised to the top position and the impact on it stops, it should smoothly return to its place. If the spring is loosely tensioned but stiff, then it will not be suitable for our purpose.
The wire that makes up the spring should have a diameter of 0.2-0.3 mm. With a length of 120-150 mm, the diameter of the spring itself should be 3-5 mm.
Read more about how to properly connect a kitchen hood to ventilation.
Using odor neutralizers
Kitchen hoods are often equipped with odor neutralizers.
In our stores you can find three types of neutralizers:
- Chemical. These neutralizers need to be changed frequently, because they quickly become covered with a greasy film and stop working before they fully exhaust their service life. In addition, they themselves emit compounds that can be harmful to health.
- Electroionization. If you have an ionizer, then the principle of operation of this device is also familiar to you. But in any room of the house, harmful substances are in much lower concentrations than in the kitchen above the hob. To neutralize them, a strong discharge is required, which can also harm the housewife standing at the stove.
- Ultraviolet. When using neutralizers of this type, it is necessary to occasionally clean the bulbs from plaque and change them approximately every two years. And these light bulbs are not cheap. But such a neutralizer is safe for human health. Moreover, the lamps emit not only ultraviolet light, but also light: white or with a slight blueness.
Armed with the information received, we will choose the right neutralizer not blindly, but with knowledge of the matter.
A few words about air ducts
The hood kit does not include an air duct. It will have to be purchased separately. It is believed that a metal box with a rectangular cross-section looks more aesthetically pleasing, but it also has its advantages.
Anyone who thinks that corrugation does not look very attractive may be mistaken: when certain conditions it can even decorate the interior of a room
The corrugation should be selected with a diameter that corresponds to the inlet hole in the upper part of the hood. If the length of this pipe is less than 1.5 meters, then the aerodynamic resistance of this material is practically negligible in comparison with the random losses resulting from turbulence in ventilation. The corrugation is easy to cut with ordinary scissors.
Corrugation can be given square shape to connect it to the firecracker. It completely lacks the resonant properties that sometimes occur with rigid boxes. If you still choose to purchase a corrugated stove, then cooking in your home will never be accompanied by a monotonous hum.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The specialist's recommendations in this video will help you not to get confused when considering the models of exhaust devices that modern supermarkets of electrical household appliances offer you. The choice must be made wisely, so listen to the advice of a professional:
When installing the hood, problems may also occur. non-standard situations. They will help you cope with the task practical advice masters that you will find in this video:
You can build ventilation in the kitchen with your own hands. But before you get started, you need to find out what types of exhaust devices are offered modern market, what rules exist for the kitchen.
If you have had to deal with the arrangement of kitchen ventilation and have something to advise our readers, or have any questions that you would like answered, please leave your comments in the block below.