The universal hand-held grinder - the well-known grinder (the first examples of which from the Bulgarian company Sparky appeared almost 50 years ago) was conceived as a portable drive device for various operations machining. However, as the production capabilities of the tool improved, it became clear that the grinder in some cases requires reliable support. Should I buy a ready-made frame for an angle grinder or make it myself? Today, we will look at this issue.
Industrial bed designs
A stand for an angle grinder will be required in the following cases:
- Cutting/grinding of a structure made of difficult-to-cut material or with large area surfaces.
- Increased cutting accuracy is required.
- It is necessary to process several products with the same parameters.
- The workpiece material is not continuous in cross-section, and the presence of voids and cavities can provoke vibration, shock and, consequently, sudden movement of the machine body.
The frame for the grinder is produced by almost the same companies that produce the tool itself. The price for the simplest design, depending on its manufacturer, does not exceed 2500...3000 rubles, but with an increase functionality the price of the bed increases to 20,000...25,000 rubles, and not every home craftsman can afford such costs. In addition, such racks are not particularly versatile, and, of course, do not take into account the individual needs of the user.
Such beds consist of the following elements:
- A base plate, which is made of thick sheet steel and is equipped with T-shaped slots for fastening the workpiece. It may also be a cast iron stove;
- The actual rack, on which a mounting device is provided for an angle grinder of a specific model;
- Adjustment devices that allow you to rotate the stand itself, as well as change the vertical position of the angle grinder;
- Optional: clamps or clamps for workpieces, the dimensions of which are unified with T-slots. Sometimes the kit also includes a bench vice with a set of profiled stands;
- A rotary handle, with the help of which the working movement of the grinder itself is performed;
- Measuring devices, usually an angular or regular ruler;
- Particularly advanced models also have a return mechanism with a spring.
Positive features It is considered possible to cleanly cut pipes from round profiles, which is problematic and even dangerous to do without stable clamping of the workpiece. The grinder bed is also necessary for corner cuts of any profile.
Technical capabilities of these devices depend on the area of the supporting surface of the plate and the lifting height of the angle grinder in the frame. Typically, the parameters are calculated for a grinder disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm, and for the size of the fixed part of the workpiece no more than 100...150 mm.
We design our own version of the frame for a grinder
Taking the above-mentioned complete set of the frame for the angle grinder as a basis, everyone will be able to modify the design to suit their needs. Moreover, many of the details homemade device can be used from other mechanisms. For example, the base of a desktop table is quite suitable as a support frame. drilling machine or a decommissioned slab from a small universal prefabricated device (USP), which already has T-shaped grooves.
The work includes the following stages:
- Development terms of reference and drawings. The main parameters of a homemade frame for an angle grinder will be the maximum diameter of the working disk, the dimensions of the angle grinder itself and the largest cross-section of the workpiece that will have to be worked with.
- Selection of blanks for the manufacture of the frame. This takes into account the cross-sectional dimensions of the parts and the material from which they are made. For example, the welded version is less reliable due to periodically occurring vibrations and dynamic loads, therefore low-carbon steels are preferable to steels such as St.5, steel 45, etc., whose mechanical strength is higher. For the same reasons, tubular profiles are more appropriate than angles or I-beams.
- Manufacturing of the device, relying mainly on one’s own capabilities (although a number of parts, in particular for measuring dimensions, elements for fastening an angle grinder on a stand, etc., are best ordered from professional workshops).
- Final finishing (stability testing, painting, possibly heat treatment), as well as installation of the control system.
In this case, it is necessary to provide for the capabilities of the frame for the angle grinder in the future, i.e., the suitability of the device for performing with its help other operations for which any angle grinder is intended.
Further questions will be considered on the assumption that all components of the frame will be manufactured from scratch. For example, we can take as a basis the following construction(see Fig. 1).
Picture 1 - General form assembled frames
From Fig. 1 it follows that the frame of this design consists of:
- Support frame, which can later be installed on a workbench or any flat surface. The frame is welded from profile pipes having increased rigidity, including vibrations.
- A round universal prefabricated device with 8 mm grooves, on which products weighing up to 12 kg can be installed. Installed on USP Rotary table with a screw regulating mechanism - a handwheel and a reading dial. As a turntable, you can use a hub from any passenger car that fits in size.
- Tables from rolled plates with mounting holes.
- A bench vice for the workpiece being processed (installed in a cantilever position to balance the overturning moment from the USP).
- A vertical stand welded to the frame, to which the grinder itself is attached.
- Return mechanism.
- Swivel arm with tool mounts.
The rotary table itself is equipped with a ruler, which should measure angular and linear movements. Its location is clear from Fig. 2. Instead of a factory-designed measuring ruler based on the drawings, you can make a homemade one using a set of two ordinary metalwork rulers and an angle meter. For less complex work suitable and .
Figure 2 – View of the desktop in installation position
When making a workbench with your own hands, you should provide radius corners and the ability to move the bench vice without disturbing the overall alignment.
Manufacturing of main frame components
The greatest technical difficulty is the manufacture of the rotary lever. It should provide reliable clamping and fixation of the angle grinder, its rotation at an angle of up to 90º, as well as the return of the angle grinder when the load is removed from the rotary handle.
The design of the rotary lever, intended for mounting on a rack, is shown in Fig. 3.
Figure 3 – View of the frame from the side of the swing arm
The rotary lever includes a vertical stand, which is rigidly fixed to the base plate, a console with an axle and a bearing assembly (with their help, the angle grinder will be rotated), a clamping device and return springs located on the opposite side of the console.
With the aim of reliable fastening For an angle grinder, several solutions can be used for the angle grinder frame design under consideration:
- An open prism welded from corners, the opposite sides of which are compressed with a clamp;
- Steel stepladders with which the tool will be grasped in the required section;
- Bolted fixation using two bolts with thrust threads, which are placed on both planes of the corners, and provide clamping of the “grinder” by rotating the high nuts GOST 5931, as shown in Fig. 4.
Obviously, in the latter case, the ease of installation and centering of the angle grinder will be the best (the option with a clamp will be very heavy, and stepladders can come apart under prolonged vibration loads).
Figure 4 – Mounting point for the “grinder” to the swing arm
The final stage of making a homemade frame for an angle grinder is installing elements to turn the unit on/off. Experts advise not only to provide for remote shutdown of the angle grinder, but also to install a foot pedal for this, since the worker’s hands are busy, and a sudden problem with cutting or grinding can lead to injury to the worker. For this purpose, the device is controlled via magnetic switch.
Assembled structure The grinder frames are first tested by manually rotating the disk. The purpose of the check is to find out the source of possible beating of the device if an error is made in its alignment. Then the angle grinder is turned on at minimum speed, and if vibrations do not occur during long-term operation, a test can be carried out when cutting a wooden and then a steel workpiece.
From a safety point of view, it is better if the frame for the angle grinder is partially covered with a removable casing, which can be made of impact-resistant plastic.
Video of exploited varieties homemade beds presented on the Internet in a wide variety. One of them is below.
The grinder is an instrument with an obstinate character. It cuts, grinds, and cleans, but it does it at such high speeds that sometimes you can’t even hold it in your hands! Therefore, there is no need to talk about high accuracy of work. A stand for an angle grinder is just what you need to tame the shrew!
Holder for an angle grinder – isn’t it easier to buy?
Why invent a tripod for an angle grinder if you can do everything yourself? It can be done, but the quality of the cut, its evenness and accuracy will remain at a very low level. Well, there is no way for a master to cope with a tool that has more revolutions than the human eye can perceive. It is for such cases that there is a tripod for an angle grinder, made with your own hands or purchased at the nearest hardware store.
The convenience of the device lies in the fact that it can be used if necessary, although many craftsmen, in order not to bother with the next installation of the tool on a tripod, buy a separate grinder for this purpose; fortunately, models that are suitable for working on tripods are not so expensive. It's cheaper than buying anyway cutting machine. Most users note that the angle grinder stand they purchased needs, if not complete, then partial modification.
Models of Chinese origin are completely one-time use - they are mainly made from sheet metal stamping method. Light parts from the vibration of the tool scatter in all directions over time, and the design itself turns out to be too light and unstable for such a machine. So what happens - Is it better to make a device for attaching an angle grinder with your own hands? Judging by the number of different drawings, tips, master classes that you can stumble upon on the Internet, the answer will be yes!
Device for attaching an angle grinder - safety rules!
Before we begin the review various designs, it should be noted that all of them are designed to work with grinders adapted for maximum 125 mm discs. Already putting the 230th angle grinder into a rack is fraught with danger, since you often have to remove the protective covers, and besides, the operator behind the rack stands against the rotation of the disc. Neglecting safety precautions when working with an angle grinder is very, very dangerous!
When constructing the machine, use only high-strength materials for protective casing. For convenience, many people use plexiglass so that the protective screen does not block the view, but the use of materials that can form fragments from an impact is strictly prohibited! It’s better not to make casings from scrap materials, but to purchase finished goods which will provide the best protection.
Stand for an angle grinder - making a grinding machine!
Let's consider the design of a grinding machine, which allows the operator to be on the side of the rotation of the disk - just in the zone where fragments of the abrasive, in the event of its destruction, cannot fly. Most drawings are designed to create machines from metal by welding various parts, however, the described frame for an angle grinder is made with your own hands from wooden elements, which greatly speeds up the creation of the machine and makes the process possible even if you do not have a welding machine.
You will need wooden box or boards in order to put it together, hammer, hand or electric jigsaw, drill, fasteners (ties, bolts), door hinges. If you have a good, sturdy wooden box, large enough that you don't have to bend very low, you can save a lot of time by using that as a base. If you don’t want to spoil the box, put together its likeness: it will be enough to make the side on which you will subsequently attach the grinder, and the top of the machine, and compensate for the missing sides of the box with legs.
The protective casing and handle from the angle grinder must be removed at this stage. We have to make a slot in the top of the box for a cutting disc or other attachment. To do this, put the disc on the grinder and lean the tool against the side wall, using a pencil to mark the width and length of the gap. It should not be too wide, so that if foreign objects get into it, the disk will not jam.
This precaution will have to be sacrificed if there is a constant need to change the disk during work - with a narrow gap, you will have to disassemble the entire structure, which will take too much time.
To securely fasten the grinder to the wall of the box, two bars are screwed - one supports the tool near the base, the second serves to support the grinder directly next to the disk. A metal eye is screwed to the top bar with self-tapping screws, which replaces the handle. All you need to do is tighten the screw - if the device has a through hole, you should not screw the screw deeper than the length of the thread. Additionally, along the entire length of the body, the tool should be secured with ties, for which we first mark and drill holes.
The grinding machine is almost ready! All that remains is to provide for the possibility of raising the workpieces being processed relative to the disk. To do this, you can place it on the top almost flush against the disk. wooden shield, which is hinged on the side so that it can be removed if necessary. To secure the shield, you can make a latch or padlock. Supplement the design with protective panels, and if this is not possible, then when working, be sure to wear a protective mask that covers the entire face. Try not to be in the area of flying fragments when the device is turned on.
Stand for an angle grinder - making a cutting machine!
It cannot be made from wood for cutting metal workpieces. Here you will need some solid details. First of all, the platform, which should be heavy enough to absorb vibrations from the operation of the tool. Alternatively, the platform is bolted to the workbench, which completely eliminates the movement of the machine during operation. To implement the simplest design, you will need a sheet of steel, metal corners, bolts, a drill with metal drills, and a spring.
Second important element rack - a hinged handle to which the tool is attached. There are many options for its manufacture - this is simplest design of two metal slats connected to each other, and the use is already ready-made solutions or details. For example, if you often have to work with angle grinders, you probably have parts from worn-out tools lying around in your garage that you use when needed. So, instead of a hinge, you can use a gearbox, which should be unscrewed from the body and screwed to the platform using brackets and bolts. A handle is attached to the spindle, and the grinder is fixed to it. It is recommended to make the handle with a stop under the bottom of the angle grinder, and also equip it with a return spring.
By using metal corners On the platform you can make various limiters at your discretion, with the help of which it will be convenient to fix the workpieces for cutting. Here, everyone is their own master and craftsman - some build additional vices for greater accuracy, others make do with fitting “by eye.” As is the case with grinding machine, do not neglect safety, if your design does not provide the ability to attach a protective casing, always wear a protective mask when working.
The capabilities of the grinder can be expanded not only through various attachments, but also by installing it on special homemade devices. As a result, you can get a cutting machine, with which you can accurately cut metal workpieces at any angle. In addition, the grinder can be mounted on a carriage, and the resulting machine can be used for cutting sheet steel.
In order to understand how to make a cutting machine from an angle grinder (angle grinder), you can look at various drawings on the Internet. But they will be of little help, since all the dimensions of the parts will still have to be selected based on the size of the grinder you have. Options for making devices can be either simple or more complex, requiring the ability to operate a welding machine.
Option 1
To make this device for an angle grinder, you will need welding skills. So, you need to do the following.
First, cut 2 small pieces from the corner (50x50 mm). Their size is selected based on the dimensions of the gearbox of your angle grinder.
Next, drill holes with a diameter of 14 mm in them and screw the corners to the angle grinder, as shown in the following photo. If you do not have suitable bolts, you can use M14 threaded studs. Just be careful that the bolts are not too long. Otherwise, in some models of angle grinders they may cling to the impeller located in the gearbox housing.
Without removing the corners from the angle grinder, secure them by welding. After this, the corners can be removed and scalded well.
Clear welds sanding attachment for the Bulgarian.
Then you need to make rotating lever support, on which the device will be attached. To do this, select 2 pipes of such diameters that one can without special effort enter another.
For a more precise cut, you can glue onto the tubes masking tape and draw a line on it.
Then, turning the tube, carefully cut it with an angle grinder. A piece of pipe with a smaller diameter should be 20 mm shorter (the thickness of 2 bearings) - it will serve as a spacer.
For a thicker pipe, select 2 suitable ones for it inner diameter bearing. After this, insert the thin tube into the thick one and press the bearings on both sides.
Then insert the pin into the bearings. Be sure to place a washer in front of the nut.
When the rotating mechanism is ready, you need to weld a small piece of corner to it.
On next stage done rack for rotary mechanism from the same corner 50x50 mm. To ensure that the pieces are the same length, the corners can be tightened with a clamp and trimmed.
Also, without unscrewing the clamp, they can be drilled immediately.
Attach the corners with drilled holes to the ready-made rotary block using nuts.
Weld a longer corner to this rack, as shown in the following photos.
Now you need to decide lever length, on which the angle grinder will be attached. This is done by selection based on the dimensions of your angle grinder. You can lay out the parts on the table and calculate the approximate dimensions of the lever, which is best made from 2 pieces of square profile pipe 20x20 mm.
The pipes also need to be clamped with a clamp and cut to the same size.
Once all the parts are ready, they can be welded together, as shown in the following photos.
In the next step you can attach to finished design Angle grinder and check again what came out of it.
Ready pendulum mechanism for an angle grinder can be easily installed on any flat surface, For example, on the workbench. Also this design can be installed on a table specially made for it. For a more rigid fastening of the mechanism, you can weld small sections of the corners on both sides of the long corner and drill holes in them.
In the following photos you can see how it is fixed on the table (in in this case used metal frame) ready-made device for angle grinders.
It is very important to set a right angle between the plane of the cutting disc and the plane of the table. Place the square on the table and move it towards abrasive wheel, installed on the angle grinder. If you initially managed to weld the fixture so that the angle between the planes was 90 degrees, then that’s good. If you notice a deviation from right angle in one direction or another, then the situation can be corrected with the help of a crowbar or a long profile pipe, for example, 60x20 mm.
To prevent the part from moving when cutting, you can screw a corner onto the table that will serve as a stop. Also, for precise cutting, the table can be easily improved with a simple vice, made from a nut welded to it and a pin of the required length screwed into it.
Next you need make a protective casing. It is done taking into account the maximum diameter of the cutting disc, which can be installed on a specific model of angle grinder. To make it easier to determine the size of the casing and the places for its attachment, you can first make a template, for example, from a piece of cardboard.
In this case, the casing will also serve as a limiter for cutting tool, preventing it from going too deep into the table while processing the part.
It would not be superfluous if for a lever with a grinder attached to it make springing. In this case, it's easy to do: insert with reverse side rod with a smaller tube and attach a spring to it, as shown in the following photo.
At this point, the manufacture of a cutting machine with your own hands, in which an angle grinder is used as a drive, can be considered complete.
Option 2
The next version of the device for the grinder, with which you can cut metal workpieces, is done as follows.
Thus, we got a simple cutting machine. To add additional rigidity to attaching the device to the lever, you can use clamps by first placing, for example, a wooden block between the angle grinder body and the pipe.
For precise cutting, so that the workpiece does not move, you will need to screw a corner to the table.
For a little Bulgarian A similar version of the device is also suitable, only the angle grinder will be attached to a metal strip: on one side with a bolt to the angle grinder itself, and on the other with a clamp.
For powerful angle grinders The device is made according to the same principle, but from larger profiles than in the figures above.
It is not necessary to use dumbbells as a counterweight. All you have to do is find a suitable spring.
Option 3
This device option is the simplest for making it yourself. It is made without a traditional stand (stand) for the rotating block. All you need is one door hanger, a metal strip, and an elastic band (you can use a rubber band from a hand-held resistance band).
The design is done as follows:
- in the metal strip, on one side, drill holes for the door canopy, and on the other, for a bolt, which will be used to fasten the strip to the angle grinder;
- screw the angle grinder and canopy to the strip;
- screw the canopy to the table;
- fasten one end of the elastic band to the edge of the table, and the other to the holder (handle) of the angle grinder.
In just a few minutes you will get a high-quality cutting machine. This device is also mobile, because it can be carried with you in a suitcase with tools, and, if necessary, mounted on any flat surface.
When installing this device, do not forget to attach a corner to the table to rest the workpiece against it.
Cutting sheet hoists using an angle grinder
To cut sheet metal you will need to purchase special carriage, which moves along a guide (profile square pipe).
But as practice shows, the cost of a good carriage is high (more than $100), so you can make it yourself. Since this process is quite difficult to describe, you can understand the manufacturing technology of this slider from this video. Using the device you can cut not only steel, but also ceramic tiles, and porcelain stoneware.
Please note that cutting ceramics generates a lot of dust. Therefore, it is recommended to adapt a dust collector with a pipe for a vacuum cleaner to the angle grinder casing.
How to make a homemade dust collector
The simplest dust collector for an angle grinder can be made from plastic bottle from motor oil.
The nozzle is made as follows.
After these simple steps, you can use the grinder to process materials that create a lot of dust when cutting.
Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Anyone who has done this knows that cutting a profile pipe straight with an angle grinder is quite difficult. This takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut one edge at a time. And yet, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, during welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place begins to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.
I had an angle grinder "DWT ws-180s" that I didn't need. They gave it to me free of charge due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the angle grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.
But it turned out that I didn’t need such an angle grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but for some reason the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. That's why it hung in my workshop for several years unclaimed - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will be useful for working on concrete, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230...
And so the idea came to me to buy a bed for it and make a cutting machine stationary machine. But having examined the purchased options, I discovered that they, for the most part, do not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.
What I needed:
1. The actual angle grinder.
2. Steel angle 50 by 50 and 40 by 40.
3. Trimming water pipe DU32-3.5
4. Cutting a water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. M14 hairpin.
8. Profile pipes 15 by 15, 20 by 20, 25 by 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Tin scraps.
So, to begin with, I decided to assemble the angle grinder mount. In purchased versions, designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out by three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects rigidity. In addition, having secured the angle grinder in three points, it has to be positioned vertically, which slightly “steals” the cutting depth - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly elongated in front. Therefore, I decided to fasten it horizontally, at two points, with a tight fit of the frame to the gearbox.. The disadvantage of this fastening is that it only fits one model of angle grinder. But I decided to ignore this, figuring that if I had to replace the angle grinder, I would simply weld a new mount.))))
I cut two pieces of 50 angle:
I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:
And screwed it to the gearbox using the handle attachment points:
At the same time, I did not have M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to tighten and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:
After that, I welded the corners together directly on the grinder, then removed them and welded them tightly:
Next I started making the carriage. For this I needed a piece of thick-walled 32-gauge pipe. Since I needed to cut evenly, and I didn’t have a cutting machine at hand yet, I used wide masking tape as a marking:
After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:
I put one inside the other:
I scored on both sides on the 202nd bearing:
And tightened it with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:
Then I cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, he burned it with an electrode outer pipe so as to weld it from the inside:
Now we need to make stands for attaching the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I tightened them with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:
Next, I assembled and welded the entire mounting structure of the carriage:
I made the rods that will be attached to the angle grinder carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. Optimal length I calculated them experimentally, laying out a diagram of the future machine from pipes and bars:
All that remains is to cut and weld everything together:
At this stage I “tried on” the grinder:
Now it's the table's turn. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, measuring 60 by 60 cm:
I attached the entire structure to this sheet:
I made two square frames from a 15 by 15 profile pipe, measuring 50 by 50 cm. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bends, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth.
After that I welded it in the corners vertical racks from the same pipe, and attached my structure to the resulting parallelepiped.
At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I already said, I excluded all adjustments for the sake of rigidity (read: accuracy) of the design. My plans were to simply bend the rods and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two montages... (Oooh! What an optimist I am!)))). Then with a crowbar! (The result is the same)..... I realized that there is no need to strengthen the structure!! Two thick-walled profile pipes of short length, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, provide incredible rigidity! ...
I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) pipe between them, with a cross-section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, there is just 60 mm between the rods.
So, the vertical is set! Now I cut through the table:
After that, I widened and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installing, for example, a circle on wood.)
By the way...Initially I had the idea to make a “2 in 1”. That is, provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down in order to obtain a circular saw! And I even started to implement it. For example, I boiled, melted and cleaned the heads of all the mounting bolts on the reverse side to get a smooth circular table:
For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the fastening bolts with which the table is attached to the “parallelepiped”... But the euphoria from the fact that “I came up with a cool idea” passed, and I realized that I was just “fallen” and was not chasing practicality , and for “it turned out great.”))))))
But in reality I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! After all, I have a circular. And, in any case, it is better than one made from an angle grinder! In addition, when working with wood with a circular saw, it is good to place this machine next to a wood circle for trimming. Instead of turning the table over for each board...
In general, I threw away this stupid idea....
..
Next I started building a support for the workpiece. I applied the square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and secured a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.
After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, this time applying a 45-degree square, drilled a hole in the table.
I forgot to take a photo, but I think it’s clear here... Now, to cut it at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and secure it in another hole.
Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut out a piece of pipe 20 by 20.
I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one long connecting nut:
I welded it.
And I processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:
Then I cooked some more, where there was not enough and processed it further. (did not take photos).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25 pipe (the 20 fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a piece of strip across it so that I could drill holes and fix it to the table. This will be the guide:
I made a hole at the edge of the stud and made a handwheel there.
Next, I attached a corner with a hole to the edge of the table and assembled the vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed it all through the stop angle, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you’ll understand from the photo:
I made the handwheel handle from a furniture bolt and put a metal tube on it.
I made a wide stop at the end. And this is how the tool vise turned out:
When the handwheel rotates, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and tightly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.
Next, I started making the protective casing. As I already said, the casing on the angle grinder was for the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut with thick circles (2.6 or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones wobble a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible!!! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing and attach it directly to the frame.
First I made a template out of cardboard.
Such devices for an angle grinder will allow you to saw off pipes, fittings, trim sheet material And so on. When using any attachment for an angle grinder, such a machine can even cut or grind stone or ceramics (for example, tiles or brooms).
It consists of:
- frame, welded or screwed from a thick plate and angles;
- triangles made by hand from sections of profile pipes;
- pendulum part, cut and bent from sheet iron;
- handles and attachment points for the grinder;
- limiter from the corner.
The bed is a regular plate with slots, to which squares and a ring for the spring are welded.
The moving part is cut out of the sheet and bent in the appropriate places. The axis is strengthened approximately 1/3 of the length of the pendulum part - metal rod caliber >10 mm. The axis for the spring is strengthened at the back - an M8 or M10 screw (bolt).
An angle grinder attachment point with a handle is installed at the front. It is welded or screwed to the movable lever. The unit must be securely fastened to avoid injury.
Triangles made of profile pipes are welded to the frame. The axis of the moving mechanism of the machine is installed on them. To prevent the axle from jumping off, caps are welded or screwed onto the triangles.
Instead of triangles made from profile pipes, you can screw ordinary triangles made and bent from a sheet of iron to the frame. A spring is attached to the frame ring and the bolt on the moving part.
For ease of cutting, attach a vice to the frame.
Cutting products at an angle
You won’t find such accessories for an angle grinder anywhere. Very often it is necessary to cut pipes or angles with your own hands at some angle. The simplest thing is to make a turntable with holes, which is secured with an axle on the frame.
When the mechanism is first secured, a hole is drilled in the horizontal plate of the frame (directly through the corresponding hole in the circle). This is necessary to fix the circle. Place a vice on top of the circle with your own hands.
The mechanism works as follows:
- Turn the circle with the vice to the desired angle.
- Insert a bolt into the holes in the circle and frame.
- Clamp it with a nut.
Advice: To rotate to any angle, make semicircular slots, weld the lock bolt with the threads facing up, and change the nut to a wing nut.
Machine with rail mechanism
There are other devices for cutting parts. For example, a cutting device using a rail assembly from furniture boxes.
Two such mechanisms are screwed onto the frame. A metal plate with a knot for securing the grinder is installed on their upper part. A travel stop (square) is screwed in front of the rails.
The entire device is installed so that when attaching any attachment for an angle grinder, its lower part is located at a distance of 1 cm from the frame. This can be achieved by strengthening additional plates between the rails and the frame.
Support device
In order not to hold a heavy tool in your hands, you can make a simple device that will help you when working with an angle grinder. Its simplest version consists of two plates of different sizes screwed together.
One of them is made of steel, duralumin or textolite piece 30*12 (15) cm. In the third case, 5-6 mm material is taken. The second plate is made of steel 120*50 mm. It bends in the middle at an angle of 60 degrees. You can take a corner of the appropriate size and bend it.
In a small plate (corner) 4 are drilled simple holes for installing it on the main surface and one with an M8 thread for attaching the grinder. The working tool is secured with an M8 bolt with a lock nut, which is needed to prevent the bolt from turning out due to vibration.
For greater convenience of working with this device, additional components have been developed. Their main function is precise cutting (along the line).
The first node consists of the same plates, to which are added:
- square 30*30*420 mm;
- corner 55*30*80 mm;
- two wooden blocks 27*30*35 mm and 120*60*25 mm.
The bars are screwed together with screws in the shape of the letter “G”. A triangle is cut out in the square at a distance of 12 cm from the end, and it is also bent “L-shaped”. The connected bars are placed on a square, and the entire structure is screwed with screws (hats at the bottom) to the main plate.
A corner is installed on one side of the long bar to more securely secure the handle of the grinder.
Serves as a limiter and guide during operation. regular board. The master rests the device against it, so that when moving it, an ideal line is obtained.
The second unit consists of the same two main plates. You screw a square to the main one from below with your own hands, which plays the role of a cutting limiter. It is advisable to make several rows of holes in the main substrate different widths part to be cut.