Homemade cutters for Dremel. Homemade engraver with flexible shaft

In terms of functionality, the use of an engraver is in many ways similar to the operation of a grinding machine or drill. But there is one important distinguishing feature- it is used for processing miniature parts.

Thanks to the use of this device in combination with a set of attachments for the engraver, it is possible to perform such technological operations as grinding, milling, drilling, engraving, etc.

Main features of nozzles

The tool is designed for finishing a fairly large number of various materials. It can be used to process ceramics, wood, glass and plastic products, hard steel.

To work with each of them, different nozzles with different design specifics are used.

Today specialized enterprises offer a wide range of various attachments necessary for performing operations with this instrument. Their design contains two main components:

• the working part that performs the main function when interacting with the product being processed;
• a shank that secures this element in the equipment socket.

When choosing this device, pay attention to certain points: the technological goal that needs to be achieved, and the material being processed, or more precisely, its characteristics.

In addition, take note of the equipment of some engraver models collet chucks. Only certain brands of attachments are suitable for them. To use such equipment you must additionally acquire universal collets.

Among the most popular types of attachments included in professional kits are diamond burs. The basis of such equipment is made of tool steel.

At the same time, the working part coated with diamond powder. Thanks to the latter, the device is capable of quite successfully processing steel, glass, ceramics, natural and artificial stones.

The use of diamond burs is most advisable if there is a need to refine a shaped hole. They are most often sold immediately in sets of ten to twenty pieces, varying in shape and size.

The operation of burs must be carried out in compliance with certain rules , helping to prevent damage to the diamond coating. Standard models are equipped with a shank with a diameter of three millimeters.

Abrasive attachments

To the number inexpensive options This equipment includes parts consisting of rubber and abrasive material. They are used to work with metal products and stainless steel items.

Sets of abrasive attachments usually include five or six instruments with a different shape of the working part. The shank of such equipment is 2.3 mm.

Some companies are engaged in the production of abrasive attachments different colors , thanks to which the user can quickly understand a specific category of tool. For example, red abrasive powders are used to work with metal. They are made from aluminum oxide.

But the tools, painted green, are intended for manipulating glass, ceramics and stone. They are sprayed from silicon carbide. To ensure the convenience of carrying out various technological processes, working part of abrasive attachments manufactured in several types of shapes.

Abrasive devices allow you to perform the following operations:

1. Sanding the surface of the part.
2. Boring holes.
3. Engraving, etc.

They are used for processing necessary materials at home. Wherein professional craftsmen Usually such tools are not used because they do not have sufficient functional potential.

Polishing and grinding attachments

As already noted, engravers are used to polish objects made from different materials.

Typically used for this type of work felt nozzle, which is pre-coated with a special polishing paste that acts as an abrasive component.

Polishing discs can be used for both rough and final finishing. They are also often used when the need arises surface finishing having an irregular shape.

To choose the most suitable paste, you must first determine the properties of the material of the product that needs to be sanded. For treating hard metal surfaces, for example, it is advisable to use pastes based on polishing powder and paraffin.

And for finishing wood, mixtures made from from diamond dust with different fractions of grains. They allow you to very effectively get rid of scratches on glass and wooden surfaces, and bring them to a perfectly smooth state. In this case, the most recommended powders are those containing diamond fractions 5/3 and 3/2.

Felt attachments for grinding can be used both when processing wood, metal, glass, and to equip drills in dental clinics or simple hand-held devices.

Work kits for professionals

The professional series equipment is represented by a separate category of attachments.

Good craftsmen usually have at their disposal sets of tools that differ in design, materials of manufacture, and shape of the working part.

In most cases, such kits consist of the following components:

• Various cutters for engraver.
• Abrasive, diamond and felt nozzles.
• Drill, thanks to which the installation can be used as a drill.
• Cutting discs.
• Wire nozzles used to clean the surface from dirt and corrosion.

All these kit components allow the specialist to produce neat and high-quality work even very small parts. To do this, of course, quite often it is necessary to change the tools used to select a more suitable equipment option for a particular situation.

But the end result is worth it. The presence of a large set of masters is often evidence of his professionalism and experience.

Most popular brands

Modern markets offer a wide range of attachments for engravers. Thanks to this, you can choose exactly those tools that will correspond to your financial capabilities and the needs necessary in a particular case.

If we talk about equipment professional level, some of the most popular and sought-after brands include “ Dexter and Dremel" The products of these companies can be effectively used for processing metal, wood, glass and other materials.

Although these devices are expensive, they are quite reliable and durable in use. One nozzle of these brands can last ten times longer than its Chinese counterpart. In addition, these tools have high processing accuracy.

As a budget trademark costs pay attention to the company "Zubr"", offering to buy a set for a relatively small amount, including up to 180 units of all kinds of attachments with different shapes, sizes and design features. Such kits are equipped with tools for drilling holes, milling, diamond and abrasive attachments, and cutting discs.

As for equipment from Chinese manufacturers, there is a very mixed opinion about them. Although they cost several times less than high-quality instruments, such instruments cannot boast of their reliability.

Moreover, Chinese kits contain significantly fewer components than branded versions. However, professionals in their field will, in principle, be able to cope with such equipment. True, you will have to change tools often.

Making your own nozzles

To carry out simple engraving work at home, necessary tools can be made from scrap materials.

For example, the simplest milling cutter is made made from a corrugated wheel from a lighter or a dowel on which working teeth are pre-cut.

To make a sanding attachment, it will be enough to use a wooden drum equipped with a shank with sandpaper glued to its side surface.

Most hand-made attachments cope well with the tasks assigned to them. At the same time, their costs are minimal.

Which equipment option to choose depends entirely on from the requirements and capabilities of the master, be it a Chinese-made instrument, a homemade one, or a professional one.

A micro drill, called an engraver, is often used to process small items. Using an engraver, you can perform the same operations as a conventional drill, as well as grinding and milling various materials. The frequency of use and demand for a tool is determined by the quantity and quality of attachments available for it. Some of them are included with the main tool, but many have to be purchased additionally. Today, we will try to learn everything we can about engraver attachments.

Types of attachments for engravers

Nozzles for the engraver are selected depending on whether wood or metal is intended to be processed with their help. For example, for woodworking you will need:

1. Polishing attachments– from sandpaper or felt.
2. Ball-shaped attachments designed for tongue and groove applications.
3. Smooth attachments for final sanding of wood surfaces.
4. Cutting discs (can also be used for cutting plastic).
5. Wood drills (usually small diameters, up to 3.2 mm).
6. Milling cutters (necessary to perform work at a professional level).

Engraver attachments designed for metal work include the same varieties as those described above. The fundamental difference lies only in the material of the working surfaces. For example, for grinding metal, attachments made of more abrasive-resistant materials are needed - corundum or hard rubber. The same applies to cutting discs, only in this case, the material used is high-strength tool steel (sometimes even diamond-coated work surface). However, there are also specific types:

1. Diamond cutters, which are used to refine holes and cavities of complex configurations.
2. Coarse sanding attachments. They are equipped with serrations and can, in addition to metals, also process chipboard.
3. Cone-shaped nozzles designed to produce grooves. Usually offered as a set, with different sizes the width of its working part.
4. Brush attachments used to remove scale from surfaces steel products.
5. Carbide nozzles, with the help of which it is possible to obtain sufficiently deep cavities in hardened steel workpieces.

The value of attachments is determined by their versatility (many manufacturers offer similar products in sets), as well as by the manufacturer. It should be noted here that, as a rule, the company that produces engravers equips them with attachments that are suitable for their products, and not necessarily those for competitors’ products.

Purpose and capabilities

First of all, it is worth emphasizing that, due to its low power, a microdrill is incapable of carrying out any large-scale operations on metal or wood. Therefore, the dimensions of the tool, regardless of where it is produced, will not be large.

The determining point is the diameter of the landing part. For example, the diameter of the drill (like an attachment for an engraver) that can be used depends on the diameter of the jaw chuck. In this case, the profile of the clamping part is important. Manufacturers often implement the principle of point clamping, which simplifies the production and finishing of the microdrill chuck itself, but degrades the performance of the attachment, especially if the processing process takes a long time. In this case, the drill will run out, and since the number of revolutions of the engraver is high, the breakage of the nozzle will follow very quickly.

The second circumstance is the functionality of the size of the nozzles. For example, for grinding work there are various attachments with a diameter of up to 7.8 mm (for woodworking) and up to 3.2 mm for metal work. The diameter of cutting wheels can reach 19...20 mm, but this corresponds to working with soft materials (plastic, aluminum, wood), and when working with steel, a drop in the speed of the microdrill motor will lead to its failure.

It is important to pay attention to the material of the tool. In particular, engraver attachments that are made of tungsten carbide-based hard alloys (VK8, VK15 and their foreign analogues) are capable of working on heat-treated metal. They can also process glass, stone, and mineral ceramics.

Finishing is the main area where industrial diamond engraver attachments are used effectively. Since their cost is very high, they go on sale in small sets (up to 10...20 standard sizes). Diamond cutters should be used only for their intended purpose, otherwise the sprayed layer will quickly become damaged, which will immediately lead to intense wear.

The most diverse class of abrasive and engraving attachments. Their selection is usually made according to the color of the landing part. If it is red, then the nozzle is designed for working with metals, and the material used is highly resistant aluminum dioxide. Engraver attachments Green colour effective for engraving work with fragile materials - glass, stone, marble, etc. Sets for such work include up to 10 sizes of nozzles.

It was already mentioned above about the possible incompatibility of the diameters of the nozzles for the engraver with the diameter of the chuck of the tool itself. In addition, it is necessary to distinguish between professional and household kits. The former are often produced by the German company Dremel, they differ high quality and price (experts note that the quality of the attachments that come with the microdrill is higher than those from the same company, but purchased separately). Domestic engraver attachments from the Zubr brand are not much inferior in quality to German ones, but are significantly less expensive. For comparison, the price of an attachment from Dremel is 350...400 rubles. per piece, and a set of more than 150 standard sizes from Zubr - only 1800...2000 rubles.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the attachments for the Chinese-made engraver. The attractiveness of the price in this case is completely offset by the low quality of the metal of the nozzles. This can only be permissible in cases where the tool is rarely used, or the task is to learn how to work with attachments of a certain type.

The basic rules of operation and selection of attachments for an engraver relate, first of all, to medium and budget tools. price category and are as follows:

• The choice of the diameter of nozzles from a specific set should be made in accordance with their subsequent use;
• For engraving, you can also use nozzles made in China; they work especially well with diamond nozzles with a spherical head;
• DIY attachments are an excellent option for experienced home craftsmen. You can use plywood as a material (it is superior to rubber in its durability), as well as felt, emery, etc. In particular, a homemade roller cutter using high-quality polishing paste will ultimately give a result that is not inferior in quality to that achieved with using an industrial nozzle. For polishing, diamond paste with a grain size of 3/2 or 5/3 is most suitable;
• In any case, when using attachments, you should use a respirator, otherwise the dust generated during work will completely get into your lungs.

"Dremel" (engraver, burr machine, mini drill etc.) is now a common noun.
Dremel is the name of a group of straight grinders designed for polishing, milling, drilling products (parts) from various materials and surface treatment.

It is advisable that the tool be equipped with a speed control system. A digital display that allows you to visually control the speed will not hurt at all. The ability to directly switch on the maximum rotation speed increases the convenience of using the machine and eliminates the need for unnecessary operations. The flexible drive shaft guarantees comfortable and precise operation in hard to reach places. The machine comes complete with attachments selected to perform basic operations - grinding, polishing, milling, cutting, drilling.

I’ll briefly try to tell you about these attachments (which are included in the kit and made from available materials) in this review.

Let's start from afar - With elementary rules security when working with a Dremel :)

The first thing I strongly recommend is to use safety glasses and petal protective mask. A medical bandage or even any piece of more or less dense fabric is quite suitable for this purpose. The mask will protect the respiratory tract from the inevitable ingress of dust. Take my word for it, if you don’t wear a mask, then by the end of working with the Dremel you can shake a decent amount of ground copper or plastic out of your nose.

Glasses are necessary to protect the eyes from the same plastic dust and from metal fragments/balls flying in different directions when grinding, for example, copper dendrites. I do not advise you to use glass glasses to protect your eyes. The glass may break, damaging the gas, or be scratched by flying fragments. Don't skimp on glasses; buy plastic ones made specifically for eye protection.
Further warnings will be issued in small portions as needed :)

So, the attachments.

Collets.
Drills and replaceable attachments for engraving, cutting, grinding and polishing are inserted and clamped into them:

Collets are most often supplied with the Dremel and differ from each other in the diameter of the hole for attachments and drills.

Drill.
To drill holes of different diameters, you need to have several drills of different sizes on hand. And the larger the assortment, the better:) Drills become dull and break, especially thin ones (0.5, 07, 1 mm). The diameter of the hole usually matches exactly, or is better if it is slightly larger than, the diameter of the cord, pin, wire, chain or other type of stringing material on which the bead or other decorative element will be fixed later. In this photo - a cut with a cross-sectional diameter from 0.5 to 2 mm:

* The workpiece must be held very firmly with your hands so that it cannot break free and fly away. The flight is completely uncontrollable, and the speed is colossal. The shaft rotation speed in modern mini-grinders ranges from 9 thousand revolutions to 35 thousand. A bead that escapes from your hands is quite capable, for example, of breaking a flower pot standing on the window, or a vase at the other end of the room, or, much worse, hitting you in the face if you still... neglected the advice to protect it.

Never touch the rotating parts of the Dremel with your hands (attachments, drills, discs, collets) - you may be seriously injured.

As the hole is drilled, it will not be superfluous to perform reciprocating movements with the drill in the bead. This allows the drilled plastic to clear the canal for further drilling. Otherwise, the bead risks breaking.

If during the drilling process the drill bit gets stuck in the plastic, then it is better not to try to pull it out or drag it further along the hole. Immediately turn off the Dremel and carefully remove the drill bit.

Be careful when handling metal parts, you can burn your hand. The metal heats up quickly and intensely. Take breaks at least for a couple of seconds to prevent the part from overheating.

Metal brushes:

They are intended for processing metal surfaces. They differ in shape, density of bristles and ultimately stiffness. In this case we have steel, hard, brushes and brass, soft. The shape of the brushes is flat, disc-shaped, as in top photos, and there are also brush-shaped ones:

The choice of brush is determined by what surfaces are supposed to be processed - flat parts or textured surfaces, with a durable coating or with a thin, foil-like coating.

This photo shows plastic brushes:

These are soft brushes for gently cleaning metal surfaces in hard-to-reach areas. They are also suitable for more precise sanding of surfaces with a thin, weak coating (copper, for example).

* All of the listed brushes (metal and plastic) are not suitable for sanding plastic - they are too hard for this.

Grinding stones.
This photo shows attachments for grinding and polishing metal and plastic surfaces.

In the top row (gray and orange) there are nozzles made of rough stone. They are only suitable for grinding off serious roughness and are not suitable for fine work and plastic works:

Homemade flat sanding attachment.
This series of photographs shows a homemade attachment designed for sanding flat surfaces. I made such an attachment based on the stone that came with the Dremel, with a smooth flat surface(top row left - gray-green):

Construction stores sell circles - “pancakes” with Velcro, for securing hefty (15-16 centimeters) sanding discs made of emery:

These "pancakes" on the reverse, smooth side, have sticky layer. We cut out a circle from such a pancake, the diameter of a stone round flat attachment (photo above), peel off the protective layer, glue this circle to the grinding stone - and we get an attachment for replaceable emery discs.

* You can use ordinary Velcro, sold in any sewing store, by placing it on the surface of the nozzle stone with ordinary second glue.

Now about the replacement disks themselves.
The same construction stores :) also sell replacement sandpaper discs. The diameter of the discs is the same as that of the “sticky” one - approximately 15-16 cm. On one side they are ordinary sandpaper (with different degrees of grain, according to numbers), and on the other there is a mating part for the Velcro.

So, from these discs we cut many, many small circles (the diameter should be equal to the diameter of the Velcro or a millimeter larger, but not less!) and, as necessary - salting, we replace these homemade self-cut sanding discs with new ones:

Another view homemade nozzle for grinding and polishing round/oval beads.

This photo shows the rivets:

These rivets are designed to be riveted using a special gun. The diameters of the technological “tails” of these rivets vary depending on the size of the rivet itself. I have it selected in such a way that it exactly matches the diameter of the toothpick on which the bead was baked.

The sanding tool can be a sponge sandpaper or ordinary sandpaper of the required grain size.

In this case, an emery sponge is taken as an example (photo on the left). This soft material, preventing the bead from being too abraded when processed in this way.

A bead is placed on the long “tail” of the rivet. The tail of the rivet is inserted into a collet of the appropriate diameter, and the collet is fixed. Now you can turn on the Dremel and grind the bead, as shown in this photo:

* A rivet with a “tail” is just an example of the fact that you can always find something at hand that easily adapts to the tool. The rivet in the description can be easily replaced with an ordinary nail required diameter, fixed in the collet so that the head holds the bead, and the sharp part goes into the collet.

Base attachment.

Such an attachment is necessary for fixing on its rod coarse grinding discs-stones, cutting discs, soft polishing discs and felt attachments with a through hole, as well as all kinds of homemade attachments:


Next are several types of attachments, used much less frequently, but still necessary.

Felt polishing cones and discs.
They are used for finishing surfaces made of plastic and metal, but due to the fact that such attachments generate dust mercilessly at high speeds, there is absolutely no reason to use them.

In their image and likeness, it is quite possible to make homemade fabric ones, which will last much longer than ready-made felt ones and will litter the room much less with flying fibers.

Nozzles for engraving.

With the help of such nozzles, you can apply a design, inscription, make indentations, grooves, notches, etc. on a surface made of plastic and metal:

* In medical equipment stores, you can almost always buy diamond burs. Their range is very wide. The service life of such burs is quite long, and the accuracy of work performed with their help is an order of magnitude higher than standard engraving heads that come with a Dremel.

Now let’s talk about how you can get out of the situation if you don’t have a Dremel, and you can’t yet buy one, and you no longer have the strength to manually grind/polish...

Budget manicure set can last for several months as a low-power sander. This set usually comes with several attachments. This set included: a pair of sanding heads, a metal “pumice” and a flat felt attachment.

Grinding heads (with metal cones of different diameters) and flat metal ones can be used without changing the design, but we modify the felt attachment in a barbaric way:) We rip off the felt, clean the plastic pad with coarse sandpaper and, using the same principle as described above, we make a flat grinding attachment with replaceable disks. This is what we have after manipulating the production of Velcro-emery:

With this device you can easily (but not very quickly) grind flat surfaces. plastic surfaces, metal, wire and other things that do not require high speeds for high-quality processing surfaces:

These are the pies.

Thank you for making it through :)

Engraving equipment, with which you can successfully perform various technological operations, is now actively used by both specialists and home craftsmen. Although purchasing such a device on the modern market does not present any problems, many of those who would like to have it in their workshop do otherwise and make an engraver with their own hands.

Despite the simplicity of the design, a homemade engraving machine allows you to successfully perform the same technological operations as a serial model engraver. Such operations, in particular, include:

• milling of flat and shaped surfaces, as well as holes and grooves of various configurations;
• drilling and boring small diameter holes;
• cutting thin sheet material;
• cleaning the product from traces of corrosion and other persistent pollution;
• applying inscriptions and patterns to the treated surface;
• grinding and polishing.

Materials that can be processed by a homemade electric engraver, are metal, wood, plastic, ceramics, glass, bone, artificial and natural stone.

What you need

Functionality, reliability and specifications, which a homemade engraving machine will have, completely depends on what materials and mechanisms you will use to make it.

To make a simple, but easy to use and functional engraver, you will need the following components.

1. A flexible shaft and a working attachment for it, in the clamping mechanism of which the tool will be fixed. As a flexible shaft for the engraver, you can use the drive shaft from a drill or a cable that drives the speedometer of a car or motorcycle. The working attachment can also be removed from the drill or made independently from a block of textolite, grinding it to the required diameter and drilling a stepped hole in its inner part. The diameter of the hole in the working nozzle of the engraver must be selected in such a way that its walls reliably hold the stationary part of the drive cable, but at the same time do not interfere with the rotation of its movable core. A tube is inserted into the hole in the front part of such a homemade working attachment, inside which it rotates freely chuck of two halves fastened together with a screw. The chuck, which must be balanced, can accommodate a tool with a shank diameter in the range of 2–5 mm.
2. A set of tools with which processing will be performed. If you use a drill handle as a working attachment for a homemade engraver, then the tools should also be from dental equipment that match the diameter of the shanks. For a homemade working attachment, as mentioned above, any tool with a shank diameter of 2 to 5 mm is suitable.
3. Drive electric motor, which can be any motor powered by electric current voltage 220 volts. This could be a motor from a DVD player or from an old reel-to-reel tape recorder, washing machine or from any other not used by you household appliances. The optimal choice for a homemade engraver is an electric motor from sewing machine, because it is already equipped with a rheostat, which allows you to regulate the shaft rotation speed within a fairly wide range. Such motors, as a rule, are capable of shaft rotation speeds of up to 6 thousand rpm, which is quite enough for a household engraver.

Engraver parts drawings

Bed Housing Bracket and clamp
Bushing and angle Holder Electric motor connection diagram

To make an engraver you will also need an electric drill, a sharpening machine and standard set locksmith tools.

The principle of operation of a homemade engraving machine

The homemade engraver of the proposed design works according to the following principle. Rotation from the electric motor is transmitted through pulleys and a rubber belt to a flexible shaft, which, in turn, communicates it to the working attachment and the tool fixed in it.

A do-it-yourself engraving machine can be made in other ways design, which assumes that the flexible shaft is connected to the electric motor through an adapter coupling. At one end, such a coupling is mounted on the electric motor shaft and securely fixed on it with a pin, and the movable core of the flexible shaft is inserted into a square hole made at its other end.

After everything structural elements the future home-made engraver is prepared and begins its production.

1. For reliable and stable fastening of all structural elements of the engraver, it is necessary to make a simple base frame, for which you can use a sheet of textolite or thick plywood, cutting out a piece of the required size from it. At pre-marked places on the surface of such a base, an electric motor and a bracket with a clamp are attached, in which the rear tip of the flexible shaft will be fixed. After tightening the fastening nut on the bracket clamp, the end of the flexible shaft should be securely fixed in it.
2. Pre-prepared pulleys, which can also be removed from old household appliances, are fixed on the electric motor shaft and on the movable core of the flexible shaft. To perform such fixation, it is necessary to drill holes in the flange part of the pulleys and on the shafts into which pins will then be inserted. Regular epoxy resin will help ensure the reliability of the connection. Transmission of rotation from an electric motor flexible shaft, carried out using pulleys and belts, is convenient in that by changing the diameters of the pulleys used, you can adjust the speed of rotation reported to the grower.
3. Final stages manufacturing the engraver of the proposed design is the installation of a rubber belt on the pulleys of the flexible shaft and electric motor, connecting the motor to electrical supply, fixing the working attachment with the tool at the front end of the flexible shaft and testing the finished device.

To make your engraver safer to use, make a compact casing for its electric motor and belt drive (you can use regular plywood). Since your hands are busy holding the workpiece and the working attachment when working with the device, you can equip the engraver with a foot pedal to turn it on and off. The main element of such a pedal, the body of which is also often made of plywood, is a regular push button.

As a drive for the engraver, you can use a grinder with a “flying” gearbox.

When deciding which flexible shaft to use to equip your homemade engraver, it is better to choose drive elements from dental drills. It is recommended to do this for the reason that such shafts, even removed from old drills, are already equipped with working attachments with collet-type clamping mechanisms, in which the tool used is very conveniently and securely fixed.

Meanwhile, using a flexible shaft from a dental drill as a drive element for an engraver attachment also has certain inconveniences. They consist in the fact that for dental attachments it is not always possible to select the tools required when working on an engraving unit. This problem can be solved quite simply: many tools for an engraver can be made independently, using available materials.

Thus, fairly high-quality cutters for engraving machines can be made from broken drills if, using a regular sharpening machine, their working part is given the required configuration. Abrasive heads of various shapes, which are actively used when processing with an engraver, can be made from debris grinding wheel medium hard.

First, such fragments must be equipped with a shank, which is made of steel wire with a diameter of 2.6 mm. Then such a shank is inserted into a pre-made hole in the abrasive fragment and embedded in it using epoxy resin. The last thing that remains to be done to transform such a workpiece into a full-fledged tool for an engraver is to give its abrasive part the required configuration using grinding machine, equipped with a high-hardness wheel.

There are just a huge number of them on sale. various instruments, which can be used for machining details. An example would be an engraver. In many ways, this tool is similar in its operating principle to a drill or grinder, but designed for working with workpieces small sizes. By purchasing and installing various attachments for the engraver, you can carry out grinding, milling or engraving, as well as drilling. It is important to choose the most suitable options execution of nozzles, since they are characterized by different performance qualities and areas of application.

Features of nozzles

Attachments for wood drills can be classified according to fairly a large number various signs. There is a wide variety on the market. Almost all equipment for an engraver is characterized by the presence of two structural elements:

1. The shank is a part of the engraver attachment, due to which it is mounted in the chuck of the equipment used.
2. The working part is responsible for directly removing the metal layer at the time of processing.

Metal engraving paste is used to significantly increase the efficiency of the processing, especially if the engraving tool is intended for surface grinding. Descriptions of attachments may be provided by manufacturers, since the cutting edge of some versions may have complex geometry.

Equipment for an engraver can have simply a huge amount distinctive features. Drill burs and other types of equipment can be classified according to the following criteria:

1. Type of material being processed.
2. Purpose of the drill and the engraver attachment used.
3. Areas of use.

An example is diamond cutters for engravers, which can be used to process the end surface and obtain a surface of complex shape.

The use of hard spraying can significantly extend the service life of the cutting edge, as well as provide higher cutting conditions. A mini drill bit for a drill is used to obtain blind or through holes with a minimum diameter. The main classification can be called the purpose for which technological task the engraver attachment is purchased. By providing diversity in this indicator, the scope of application of the engraver is significantly expanded.

By type of material processed

When choosing the most suitable set, attention is paid to what materials it is intended to work with. The classification of tools in this case is as follows:

1. Most of the options are designed for working with wood. As an example, the wood engraving cutter has become widespread. It can be used to obtain various patterns. If necessary, ensures high processing accuracy.
2. An engraver with appropriate attachments for working with metal is used. In this case, when making a cutting edge, more wear-resistant and hard alloys are tried on. When choosing tooling, it is important to pay attention to what kind of alloy will be processed. An example is the ratio of the hardness of aluminum and hardened steel.
3. Glass equipment is purchased quite often. This type of material is difficult to process. That's why it's often cutting part made from wear-resistant alloys or diamond chips.
4. There are attachments for engravers that are designed for working with stone. The diamond cutter for stone has become quite widespread. The high hardness of the treated surface determines what cutting edge special requirements apply.

The purpose of the type of material being processed largely determines the cost of the equipment. The most affordable offer is considered to be wood cutters, which have become very widespread. There are also often versions designed for working with metals.

By purpose

A tool for engraving on metal or wood can be intended for a variety of operations. Based on this feature, the following execution options are distinguished:

1. For engraving work. Very often it is necessary to apply some kind of drawing or inscription on the surface. If the work is carried out in a home workshop, then an engraver can be considered a more suitable tool. There is an engraving cutter for metal or wood, artificial or natural stone, glass and other materials. Diamond burs (cutters) are often sold as a set, since to obtain complex drawings and inscriptions may require attachments with different cutting edge geometries.
2. Tools whose attachments are represented by a combination of solid metal rod and an abrasive tip. In some cases, it is necessary to improve the quality of the roughness of recesses or other complex surfaces. In such cases, this type of equipment is used. Its purpose is to rough and finish the surface, it all depends on the grain size of the abrasive material used.
3. For grinding and polishing work. On sale you can find a huge range of engraver grinding attachments. In their manufacture they can be used various materials. An example is classic abrasive or felt.

When choosing, it is worth considering that there are a variety of pastes for engraving and other engraver attachments intended for grinding surfaces. Their use can significantly increase the efficiency of the operation. The selection of paste is carried out in accordance with the specific tool used for processing and what material the part was made from. Before using any paste, you should pay attention to the instructions for use.

When considering the classification, we will also pay attention to the fact that there are working attachments for professional engravers. They are intended to be a multi-functional tool that can be used to perform a wide variety of operations. The most common set of such equipment is represented by the following combination:

1. Cutters that have different shape and sizes.
2. Cones made of abrasive, felt or diamond coating.
3. Drills that can be used to transform a conventional engraving machine into an efficient drill for precise drilling work.
4. Wire nozzles, which can be used to clean the surface.
5. Cutting discs designed to remove part of a product.

If desired, the set can be assembled by purchasing all the attachments separately. However, some versions are extremely rare on sale, which makes it difficult to purchase them separately. Let's take cutting discs as an example.

A set of attachments for the engraver is produced under various brands. As previously noted, when frequently processing workpieces with the tool in question, a fairly large set of attachments is required. The following factors may influence your choice:

1. What specific technological tasks will have to be performed. As previously noted, a drill can be used to carry out simply a huge number of technological tasks: engraving, surface grinding, cutting, drilling and others. The choice is made in accordance with what kind of work will be carried out. There are universal sets available for sale, represented by a combination of nozzles of various types.
2. Characteristics, geometric features of the workpiece and the type of material used in manufacturing.
3. Estimated dimensions of workpieces. A tool that is too small is not convenient for processing larger workpieces. However, achieving your goals may take much longer.

The set of cutters and other attachments can be minimal or include several dozen units. In this case, the choice depends on the budget allocated for the purchase of equipment and how often the work will be carried out.

When choosing, attention is also paid to the classification according to the purpose of the sets:

1. Professional level. The high cost of such an offer is primarily due to long term service and exceptional performance. In addition, the cutting part throughout long period retains its shape, thereby ensuring precision processing. It is advisable to choose such equipment only when the relevant work is carried out frequently.
2. Budget proposals. This group can be divided into simply a huge number of categories. The most affordable tool will be an offer from Chinese manufacturers, but it will not last long and often does not meet the stated characteristics. Some famous manufacturers also produce instruments of this class, but at the same time they withstand quite high level quality. That is why, when work is carried out infrequently, attention should be paid to such a proposal.

When purchasing a tool, you can inspect it. There should be no obvious mechanical defects on the surface. In addition, a lot of attention is paid to symmetry, which is quite difficult to check without special equipment.

Making your own nozzles

For some surfaces, it is difficult to find a more suitable nozzle on sale. That is why many are considering the possibility of making them themselves. An example is Dremel cutters for wood, which have also become quite widespread today.

You can make a cutting disc or grinding head in your home workshop. A primitive cutter is represented by a grooved cylinder from a conventional lighter. The grinding attachment is made from wooden drum, to which it is attached sandpaper with the required grain size.

Do-it-yourself engraver attachments are made because they can replace completely purchased versions. However, it is very difficult to make wood carving attachments with your own hands. This is due to the fact that the working part of such a tool has a complex geometry, which can only be replicated by a true professional using special equipment.

At self-production equipment, attention should be paid to the fastening features. The corresponding element from a broken tool can be used as a shank.

Return