Wood is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials, so the desire to have wooden house quite understandable. Timber buildings are becoming popular today, so construction companies They offer ready-made options, but they are usually not cheap.
Making a house from timber with your own hands is not particularly difficult, so we will now look at the principles of this matter. correct processing and laying wood, the structure turns out to be durable, but in practicality it cannot be compared even with frame house. Not so long ago, wood for buildings was taken as a single log due to the difficulties in processing it.
Now a popular option is timber. We will tell you how to build a house from timber , without any effort.
Peculiarities
During construction, timber has a significant advantage over logs - less of it is needed, but there are also disadvantages. The seams between adjacent products are poorly protected from all kinds of precipitation, so they require special treatment.
It is possible to sheathe a structure from timber certain material, but if this is not planned, then each beam needs to be chamfered 20 by 20 mm. The timber can also be subject to helical deformation, but modern technologies have helped get rid of this by creating a profiled beam with complex “protection”. Manufacturers of the material dry it thoroughly, which helps to avoid shrinkage. There is also laminated veneer lumber with increased strength indicators. Its important advantage is geometric stability, which does not allow the material to change shape under the influence of moisture.
Assembly technology
Corner connection - warm corner You can buy it at the manufacturing plant already ready set for construction and upon arrival at the site, simply assemble it according to the plan. During installation, ties are used - metal pins with a special anti-corrosion coating. They are necessary for reliable fixation of the bars in a certain place.
- Laying waterproofing followed by installation of the first level of timber. The material is longitudinally fastened with a cross for attractiveness. Assembling the beams on wooden dowels with laying insulation between them. After the walls are erected, interfloor ceilings are installed, including floor beams. Rafter system. When developing it, 2% shrinkage of laminated veneer lumber is taken into account. The design uses sliding rafter fastenings. Laying of roofing. Internal arrangement. Insulation of floors and walls, production of partitions and other work. This stage also includes the laying of utilities. Terrace. If it is provided, then it is necessary to start laying the floor from a special impregnated board, made with the expectation of long service life when exposed to external factors. Installation of windows and doors.
Now let's look at the main points of how to build a house from timber in a little more detail.
Foundation
The foundation can be columnar, strip and slab. Columnar foundation is one of the simplest. To make it, you need asbestos-cement pipes, which will need to be inserted into the prepared holes.
This type of foundation also has the disadvantage of a lack of connection between the resulting pillars. It is more practical to choose a pile analogue, in which the piles are connected by a reinforced concrete slab. Slab foundation - reinforced concrete slab, on which construction will continue.
It will require concrete and reinforcement in large quantities. The strip foundation is the most common due to the many options with different functionality. For heavy loads, a foundation type with the same cross section, while for light houses - a shallowly recessed variety, which costs less, but is not inferior in reliability.
Walls
The walls must be assembled directly on the site. At the corners, the timber can be connected in one of two ways - with or without a protrusion. First, the strapping crown is laid on the prepared foundation and connected halfway across the tree.
This type of fastening is used regardless of the selected connection of subsequent rows. The first floor should be about three meters high. When the walls are laid to the required level, they make the ceiling and begin the second floor, if one is planned.
Materials
The sealant is used very often for wooden houses. Moss, felt or hemp are sold in convenient rolls, so cut into strips required sizes they are quite simple.
Floor
Insulation plays an important role in laying the floor, so the structure is made double. Insulation is placed between the two layers, which also soundproofs the room well. By using edged boards a subfloor is created.
It is customary to hem this material from the bottom, but such fastening is not reliable. To improve the characteristics of the building, a cranial beam is used, which must be attached to the joists.
By following simple rules, you can easily build any shaped house from timber. Such buildings are distinguished by practicality, speed of construction and aesthetics. Methods of connecting timber are presented below: And here you will learn more about the procedure for building a house from timber:
DIY timber house
It must be admitted that in Lately becomes fashion trend relocation from urban to rural areas. Of course this decision It is not easy to accept and you need to understand that considerable troubles await the migrants ahead. The first thing that comes to mind is to remove a private house or repair an old one, but in this article we will talk about how to build a house from timber with your own hands. We immediately need to decide on the criteria that we will gravitate toward when designing and building a house, namely, relative cheapness, warmth of the room and comfort. The customer is strongly They recommend, regardless of the chosen material and construction method, to delve into all stages of the construction process yourself, because only then can you achieve a positive result and get what you really wanted.
Advantages of building a house from timber
Of course, it is imperative to understand the advantages and disadvantages of the technology that will be used. First of all, you need to look at photos and videos of how to build a house from timber with your own hands. A photo report and other supporting materials can be found on the corresponding page of the site. Firstly, it is pleasant to be in a wooden house - this is an important fact.
Secondly, the construction of such a house occurs quite quickly. (The box can be built by four people in 4 days). Thirdly, if you use the technology mentioned in this material, in timber house You can move in immediately after completion of construction. Fourthly, the skill that would be an integral part of construction by other methods is not at all necessary. It is important to identify the disadvantages.
The main disadvantage is that a material such as wood is used, the harvesting of which is carried out using completely unacceptable methods, that is, those that violate the environment. Secondly, a house made of timber cannot be abandoned without finishing. Despite the inexpensive construction, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend an impressive amount of money on finishing, completion, coating the timber with an antiseptic to protect rotting and fungus, etc. In addition, the building will need to be insulated, especially if it is built in areas with cold winters.
Construction technology
Of course, it is best to design a house made of timber with your own hands. One of the first steps is the labor-intensive marking for the dowels. Here it is better to contact a professional who could help with this step.
The technology is such that on each marked beam, dowels are drilled immediately: from above and from below, and this is done strictly according to a tape measure. As a result, if everything is accurately cut and trimmed, the timber easily fits one on top of the other. It is necessary to determine the sequence of actions.
For clarity, we recommend watching a video of building a house from timber with your own hands. First of all, you need to prepare workplace: some skeleton is made, then the beams are moved. Those with a hump are naturally placed on top, etc. That is, it is necessary to mark the beams - which one will go where.
Another builder no longer thinks about which side will be the top and which will be the bottom - he already plans, seeing the markings. Next, other types of markings are made: end markings, etc. The next procedure is marking tenons and grooves; Next you will need to make them.
The jute is placed between the beams, holes are made in it to be placed on the dowel. When making a rough box, the jute is not inserted. The timber should not be allowed to lie for a long time; it is prepared as it is laid. Wet timber dries in the wall itself, it is better to take it directly after the sawmill. We sincerely hope that our article with photos and videos helped you answer the question of how to build a house from timber with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself timber house construction technology
Timber is a universal environmentally friendly building material, economical and easy to use. Thanks to these qualities, it is often used for building houses on a personal plot.
The strategy for building such houses is simple, does not require much time, and is accessible even to an inexperienced builder. Let's consider the step-by-step construction of a house made of timber with your own hands, paying attention to the nuances and difficult moments.
Material selection
Construction wooden house from timber with your own hands, you need to start with choosing the material. The speed and technology of construction depends on which timber will be chosen for the future home.
Building a house from dried or glued profiled timber will not require much time, but the financial costs will be higher. To glue such timber, a special waterproof glue is used, which does not prevent the wood from breathing. If you are going to build a house from timber, then it will be useful for you to learn how to choose and build a foundation for a house from timber. Read how to make an inexpensive and simple garage for your car here. Houses made from raw timber are considered a budget option, but they require long-term (about a year) shrinkage of the frame, only after which you can begin laying the roof.
Creating a Project
Before you begin construction, you need to decide on the size of the house and its area, draw up a project and calculate the amount of material needed. It is important to take into account the thickness of the timber. Standard sizes sections - from 100x100 mm to 200x200 mm.
The most common and convenient is a beam with a cross-section of 150x150 mm. When designing, it should be taken into account that the standard length of a beam is 6 m, so if one of the sides of the house is longer than 6 m, then the beam will need to be joined along the length.
Laying the base and floor
The construction of a house made of timber begins with the creation of a lower frame - a crown, which is laid out on a leveled and waterproofed foundation. For external walls, timber with a section of 150x150 mm is used, and for floor beams and internal partitions - 100x50 mm.
After laying, the first crown must be treated with an antiseptic, since it is most susceptible to the development of wood defects. At the next stage, the floor joists are installed, it is advisable to lay them on the edge. A subfloor is laid on the joists, which is covered with thermal insulation on both sides.
For the subfloor, boards with a cross section of 25x150 mm are selected. On last stage the floor is finally laid out from any material, for example, tongue-and-groove boards 28 or 36 mm thick.
Walling
The construction of the walls of a wooden house comes down to alternately laying out rows of timber. Each row or crown is attached to each other using a dowel - a pin for vertical connection. Dowels prevent the beam from shifting and twisting. 
They can be made of metal or wood of the same species as the house. Metal dowels reliably tighten the timber, but they are more expensive than wooden dowels. The dowels are installed according to the principle brickwork- through 2-3 crowns after one. To do this, holes with a diameter of 3-4 cm are drilled into which the dowels will be inserted without effort. The recommended distance between dowels is 1.5 m.
Between the rows of timber it is necessary to lay a sealant, for which you can use flax-jute cloth or tow.
Different layers of timber alternate with grooves and tenons. This method of connection allows you to obtain the most rigid structure possible, and make the corners windproof.
Tckb vs if we build a house with our own hands from one and a half floor timber, then the walls of the second floor need to be raised by 1200-1500 mm, depending on the steepness of the planned roof. The partitions cut into the main walls of the house. For their construction, timber with a section of 100x150 mm is used.
Installation of partitions is carried out only after the construction of the frame of the house. If the dimensions two-story house exceed 6 by 6 m, then it is necessary to have at least one partition on the first floor, which will become an additional support for the floor of the second floor. If it is necessary to reduce construction costs, then the internal partitions can be made of frames. In this case, a frame is created from bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or 40x40 mm, which is then sheathed with clapboard or any other material.
To increase the fire resistance of a wooden house, all its structures are treated with a fire retardant. It is enough to apply it to the walls using a paint brush or spray gun.
Roof construction
Can be used to cover the roof various materials: roofing felt, ondulin, metal tiles, corrugated sheets, etc. The main rule is to start with insulation of the last or attic floor and gradually move on to the roofing material. Ceiling beams, sheathing and rafters are installed in accordance with the design of the future roof.
After the walls are built, ceiling joists are laid, which should protrude 50 cm beyond the base of the wall. A beam with a cross-section of 150x100 mm is selected for the joists.
They are laid out on edge at a distance of 90 cm from each other. Then a rafter system is assembled from boards with a section of 50x150 mm. The structure serves as the skeleton of the roof, so it must be rigidly strengthened with the help of racks, braces and crossbars.
The rafters are mounted in increments of no more than 1 m. After installing the frame, laying out the fronts begins. The fronts can be made of timber with a section of 150x150 mm, siding, or simply nailed down with a 25x150 mm board.
At the last stage, a sheathing with a cross-section of 25x150 mm is nailed onto the rafters. The sheathing pitch should not be more than 400 mm.
To prevent the accumulation of condensate, it is necessary to perform a vapor barrier using a waterproofing layer. If slate is used to cover the roof and the attic is ventilated, then waterproofing can be abandoned.
Window blocks
In places where windows are provided, technological openings are cut out through which air moves while the material dries. After the final shrinkage of the house, windows are installed. Window blocks for a house made of timber can be wooden or metal-plastic. Any building needs reliable roof, read about how to build it yourself here. Roof soffits are a modern and beautiful material, if you want to learn more about it then come here.
In this video, the technology of self-building a house from timber is discussed in detail, and the main difficult issues that an independent developer may encounter are discussed. After watching the story, there should be no more questions about how to build a house from timber yourself.
- House dimensions: 11.7 x 22.5 m Total area: 526.5 m2
Price and equipment
How to make a house frame from timber? What foundation should I use? When to install windows?
You can read a thousand articles, but still not understand all these little things. It’s easier to just look once with your own eyes. We will be happy to show you how to build a house from 100x100 mm timber with your own hands; the video has been posted for you on the website.
- Assembling walls is not an easy process. You will need special equipment - you can’t do it without a crane. The crane operator must know all the intricacies of the job. And then: I don’t want to study at my own home, because later the mistakes will be difficult to correct. We are happy to show you how to assemble a house from 100x100 mm timber with your own hands, videos and drawings are at your service. If you have any doubts about the assembly, call us, we will help you with this issue.
Popular projects
- Waterproofing.
There are several types of foundation:
- A strip foundation is a reinforced concrete strip that stretches along the entire perimeter of the house. This tape is laid under all the walls of the building; The columnar foundation is erected in the form of pillars located at all intersections of walls and at points where there is a large load. This is an economical and reliable option that can only be used for houses with low weight, for example, the construction of a house from laminated veneer lumber is often carried out on such a foundation; Pile foundation is a structure consisting of piles. Most suitable for large buildings.
Laying the foundation requires a lot of attention, as this is one of the main processes in the construction of a log house or bathhouse made of timber.
Wall assembly
Beams for walls usually have cuts at the corners for correct installation. Building the walls of a log house from 150x150 timber is not so easy, but on the Internet you can watch a video from professionals that shows everything.
So, laying the walls begins with the first crown, to which you need to pay great attention. Firstly, be sure to take care of waterproofing. If it was not laid during the construction of the foundation, then you should think about it before laying the beams. It is necessary to lay roofing material on top of the base in two layers, and then lay longitudinal boards treated with bitumen. Only after this can the first crown be laid. Options for assembling the walls of a 150x150 log house or a bathhouse made of timber:
- Assembly in the floor of wood. To do this, you need to make holes in the timber for the dowel. A dowel is a spike made of wood or metal that can be used to connect beams to each other. Holes must be made in the corners and along the length of the beam, the distance between them must be at least 1 meter. Next, the first crown is laid, with insulating fiber on top of it, and then the laying of the next crowns begins. The dowels must be driven in starting from the third row of beams. You can watch a video on similar installation for better familiarization; Connecting timber along the length. The standard length of the timber is 6 m. In cases where this is not enough to build a house, you can use special technology assemblies. The ends of the beams must be cut in a certain way so that they can be connected to each other into a locking structure. It will also need to be fastened with dowels, starting from the third crown; Assembly with a main tenon. To use this technique, it is necessary to make a tenon on one of the beams, and a corresponding groove on the other. During connection, they must fit into each other, creating a corner of the log house or bathhouse. With this method, the first crown is still made into the floor of the tree, this way it is possible to achieve greater strength. The crowns are connected by dowels.
Roof of the house
After the height of the walls has been brought to the desired level, you can begin to cut the roof with your own hands. This is a difficult process, which you can see with your own eyes in the video. The roof structure for a log house or bathhouse can be of any type. 
The most the best option, and is considered widespread gable roof. It consists of two elements - truss structure and roofing. The rafter structure is the basis of the roof.
Rafters are its constituent components, the fastening of which is carried out using staples and nails. If you plan to install heating or gas in the house, then you need to provide holes for the pipes. The next step is laying a vapor barrier film, on top of which you need to sew counter-lattice slats, after which the lathing is installed. Afterwards, the material from which the roof will be made is selected, and then the process of laying it begins.
Floor installation
Building a log house with your own hands is not an easy task, and you need to be careful. Otherwise, living in the building will be inconvenient and uncomfortable. So, you should definitely consider installing the floor.
Most often they are made double, with a heat-insulating layer placed between them. In the process of making the floor, an edged board is used. It is hemmed from below.
When hemming, all stitches must be carried out evenly and accurately, otherwise after a short use, the boards will begin to tear off. Also, to install the floor, a cranial beam is used, which will be fastened to the joists. To install the floor, you can use modern coatings. They will cost a little more, but they can change the interior and design of the entire house.
Ceiling installation
Ceiling - important element any home. In a timber frame it will consist of several elements (arranged from top to bottom):
- Binder. This decorative element, which every person will admire; Vapor barrier layer. Thanks to it, moist air from the room will not reach the beams. Thanks to the vapor barrier, the rafters will not begin to rot; Insulation. This is a layer of insulation with which warm air will not leave the house through the roof.
Door and window openings in a log house
To future home a person could enter; doors need to be installed. To allow light to enter a building, windows are needed. However, it will not be possible to simply install both windows and doors - special openings are required. Openings can be made in two ways:
- In the process of making a log house or bathhouse. This is a complex technique, since it requires calculating in advance correct location windows The beams are selected in a special size and laid so that an opening remains; After the construction of the log house. This cutting method must be carried out with a plumb line to mark the places where the sawing will take place. The process is completed using a chainsaw. In a specialized video you can see all the nuances of the work;
The next step in designing door and window openings- pigtail. Thanks to it, you can strengthen the opening and ensure the free placement of the beams. The main purpose of the casing is to preserve the shape of the openings after shrinkage.
Finishing a timber house
Finishing a house or bathhouse from a log house is an essential part of the DIY construction process. There are only two options for the development of events - leave the outer walls unchanged, treating them only with protective varnish or covering them with decorative elements. 
This is a difficult choice, because the wood texture looks beautiful and attractive, but I also want to try modern finishing options. For decoration, you can use clapboard, siding or block house. Interior decoration Logging comes down to two processes - mandatory and additional.
The first option includes flooring, as well as installation of windows and doors. Additional features include the design of a certain interior and style in the house.
Plumbing, electricity and heating
If you wish, you can take care of all the benefits modern world. The first of these is water supply. It can be of several varieties - autonomous or centralized. Centralized water supply will come from one main pipe.
The advantages of this connection are ease installation work, the downside is the dependence on the central water utility. The autonomous option has several advantages, including the fact that water is supplied at will. An important point that includes the construction of a house from profiled timber or another type, as well as a bathhouse from timber, is heating.
It can be presented in different types– do-it-yourself heating installation, use of portable equipment or underfloor heating. There are several options, from which you can choose the one that suits your taste and budget best. Today it is impossible to do without electricity.
Laying the wiring will not leave any difficulty, as well as installing switches and sockets. However, when carrying out this work, you should not forget about fire safety rules. Making a log house with your own hands is considered a difficult task, the execution of which will require a lot of effort and time.
It will be more difficult to build a comfortable and convenient log house without special skills or little experience. It is recommended to use the help of specialists and always be prepared for additional costs.
Considering that timber is a fairly common material for housing construction, the number of people wishing to purchase wooden house for accommodation or summer seasons, is growing every year. But in conditions of a tight budget, hiring a team of carpenters is quite expensive and the owner of the land always wonders how to build a house from 150*150 mm timber on his own. By following the recommendations below, you can cope with this matter.
Choice of material and construction conditions
Before you build a house made of timber, you need to take a responsible approach to the choice of raw materials.
It comes in several types and has positive and negative aspects.
Simple, profiled, glued, house kit - given in ascending order of price.
Using the first option, you have to do the cladding. The latter will allow you to assemble a house in a couple of months. Glued is considered elite, but it is expensive and does not have the proper environmental benefits.
The profiled one leads, but the stability of the entire object is good. In general, in order to purchase goods, you need to decide on the purpose of construction - housing, dacha. And also calculate the budget for related materials. Working with any selected wood is identical.
The site for work must already be ready - the foundation, access roads, warehousing and storage of timber. The process is long, and wood is capricious. To prevent damage and waste, you should take care of everything in advance.
The material must be stored separately on platforms, avoiding contact with open ground. Parts should be covered with polyethylene and opened for ventilation. Communications are required - electricity and water.
We must not forget about all the legal approvals with any services - the Ministry of Emergency Situations, fire department and BTI. Otherwise, you will have to regret the work done. Next - how to build a house from timber.
Stages of work
Focusing on the project, work begins with waterproofing the foundation and laying larch boards on it. This breed practically does not interact with moisture, which is the key to the durability of the entire house. The platform is pitched with bitumen and covered with two layers of roofing material or rolled rubber.
The board is attached to reinforcement protruding from the platform. The holes should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod so that the fit is tight. Needless to say, everyone wooden element must be treated with protective compounds to prevent rot, mold and ignition in case of fire. Next, work goes according to plan:
- Salary setting. This is the first “circle” of crowns, which requires careful technology. For example, cutting corners. It is diverse and requires professionalism.
You can make “toe-to-toe” joints yourself, but such corners are cold and take on all temperature changes. Bowl and other complex cuttings are accessible only to specialists, although you can learn anything. The joints are strengthened with wooden dowels.
By the way, in the question of how to build a house from profiled timber, there are no difficulties in terms of fastening - there are ready-made grooves and holes. In the initial crown, grooves are also cut out for the floor joists, and a rough version is laid out for the convenience of further actions.
- Each "circle" of the house requires interventional insulation, which you need to stock up on in sufficient quantities. The choice of material is up to the owner, but it is worth knowing that tow and jute felt are the worst options. The first one will crumble, the second one will serve as a breeding ground for moths.
In addition, after shrinkage, caulking will be required, even if wood manufacturers claim that their products can do without it. Cold corners will especially need it - shrinkage will open them up and the gaps will become noticeable to the naked eye.
- Next, the solution to the problem - how to properly build a house from timber, lies in marking the holes for the dowels and leading the walls. To know exactly the position of the fastening, the next element is lifted onto the protruding clamps and marks are made in the right places with the butt of an ax.
Then holes are drilled at the designated points, and the timber is put in place. Thus, the walls are led to the desired height, not forgetting to alternate all the crowns with a sealant. The last two crowns are not secured with anything - they are removed to install the rafters.
- Cut down windows and doorways, it is impossible until the house completely shrinks. This work requires precision and strengthening of the timber.
If you neglect this, then you can subsequently get at least a skew of the inputs, and at a maximum of the entire structure. The same applies to the rafter system. It is installed after a while.
So, the time for shrinkage has passed. You can continue working on the question of how to build a house from timber yourself. They start from the roof. The strength of the structure depends on the careful selection of material for this purpose.
Wooden elements for rafters should not be smaller than a cross-section of 100 mm. Also, they do not contain visible defects - the number of knots, cracks. In general, the parameters of the timber for such purposes depend on the design of the roof itself and the number of spans - the more there are, the larger the section should be.
In addition to rafters, reinforcing beams may be required. Their cross-section is smaller, but the quality of the wood should be on par with the rafters.
Roof installation:
- Two rows of crowns are removed and floors are installed like floor joists. It will be much more convenient to work if you also lay rough sheathing.
- Mauerlat's turn - load-bearing structure the entire roof. This is a beam with a section of 150*150, around the entire perimeter of the house. It is also secured with dowels. This element is usually wrapped in two layers of roofing felt. The ends of the rafters are also tarred or wrapped.
- The rafters are screwed to the beam. For this purpose, anchor bolts are used, because the roof structure is the heaviest and most dangerous part of the house. The complexity of manufacturing depends on which roofing model is chosen.
It can be pitched or hipped. In the first case, the upper ends of the rafters are attached to ridge run, and the gables can be assembled immediately and installed as shields.
The attic type requires different actions: first, the beam is placed vertically, and rafters are attached to it, which form the ridge. The spacing of the sheathing depends on the parameters of the timber - the thinner, the more often. You can cover the roof with the selected material immediately.
Door and window openings
Now, in the general task of how to properly build a timber house, the issue of openings is being resolved. First, outline the outline. The lower border should fall in the middle of the second crown.
They use it for work circular saw and lead lines outside. After this, the pieces are carefully knocked out inside. Then a groove is made along the ends of the opening for inserting casing boards.
This is to prevent movement before hanging doors or inserting windows. The canvas, of course, must have a spike.
Management and step-by-step instruction on building a house or Russian bathhouse from timber with your own hands.
How much does it cost to build a house?
For many Russians, a new gardening life begins every year with this question. After a newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will definitely face a difficult economic situation in our country.
Interesting offers from many construction companies- to build any turnkey structure may conflict with the family budget. Even if you give up architectural sophistication, building a house will be an expensive pleasure.
Often, the costs that will go into direct construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest on a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house yourself.
The main difficulty in self-construction at home is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.
How to properly build a house from timber?
It is better to build a wooden house. After all, buildings made of wood are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
You can go further in two ways. The first is to raise money and purchase the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes
- lumber for ceilings and floors,
- timber for log house,
- edged and unedged boards,
- window and door blocks, etc.
- insulation made of flax or jute,
- roofing material,
- glassine,
- glass,
- roofing felt, g
- haul, staples, tow, etc.
The second way is to purchase all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.
It’s better to go the first route, as it will end up being cheaper. In addition, many companies, when purchasing a complete set of building materials, deliver them directly to the site for free.
It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future house, are no less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.
Where to start building a house?
First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the connection of the future house to the area, and the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to the plan for dividing the entire territory into separate areas. The position of the house must be agreed upon with the board of the dacha association.
First of all, it is necessary to draw a plot plan on a piece of paper on a certain scale, indicating specific dimensions and marking on it the place that will be allocated for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan to the board with the seal or signature of the responsible person.
Work on the site should begin with cutting down bushes, mowing grass, uprooting stumps and cutting off hummocks on the territory of the future construction site. For these works you need to have an ax, a shovel, a scythe, hand winch, crowbar and sledgehammer. It is better to use a sledgehammer to remove stumps.
Once the area has been cleaned, you can move on to the next step.
First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a strip foundation, since with its help you can get a complete, warm, durable foundation from a homogeneous material at the lowest cost labor. And then you won’t have to do additional work on manufacturing and installing fences and lintels. A simplified method for marking axes should be used without using scraps. After all, cast-offs make it very difficult to dig foundation trenches.
When digging a foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed away, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be placed in a separate pile; it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be influenced by the level of occurrence groundwater, soil type and freezing depth.
A shallow foundation with sand filling the bottom of the trench is best. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, compacted and watered. Before pouring concrete, the reinforcement was laid on a sand bed. There must be at least two reinforcement bars.
Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be used as reinforcement. You can use a sledgehammer to break the concrete around the post reinforcement. Two pillars are enough. From one you can get 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.
Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it at the corners. To do this, you can use two railway spikes. Drive them with ridges towards each other into a stump, beam or log so that there is a reinforcing rod between them. The rods that are placed must overlap each other by at least 20 cm. To prevent them from diverging when pouring concrete, it is better to tie the ends of the rods with wire where they overlap.
In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, you need to place stones, pieces of brick, and crushed stone under the bars so that the reinforcing bars are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm. If there is nothing to put the bars on, they can be hung. The crossbar covers the top of the trench and reinforcement is suspended from it. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It is better to purchase ready-made concrete; preparing it by hand is very labor-intensive.
Pouring the foundation
It is better to fill the foundation as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods 40 cm long are inserted into the uncured concrete. These rods are immersed into the base of the foundation to a depth of 20 cm. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. Rods are inserted at the corners of the foundation, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be connected into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for attaching the plinth formwork panels.
In warm weather the surface fresh concrete you need to protect it with moss, grass, sawdust and moisten it with water, or simply cover it with roofing felt. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. To do this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The panels will have no gaps, the surface of the base does not require plaster. To save money, you can use unedged boards.
After preparing the boards, you need to assemble boards of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the shields, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.
The panels are assembled on spacers laid out on the ground in such a way that their smooth side faces the inside of the base. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Overlays are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. The height of the panels should be 10 cm above the concrete pouring level.
In any foundation, the base at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground should have ventilation windows. They should be opposite each other on different sides of the base. To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes into the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the panels so that concrete does not pour into them
- Installation of shields begins with the inner contour. Before this, pieces of wire are wound around the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
- First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
- Then shields are placed next to them, the edges of which rest on the locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
- The panels of the internal contour, fastened together, are aligned relative to the axes of the foundation, and the diagonals at the corners are checked.
- The upper and lower spacers are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
- Then the outer contour panels are attached, their centers are aligned with certain marks on the foundation.
- The nails in the upper and lower spacers are forgotten. The shields are knocked together. It is checked whether the installation of the shields is symmetrical relative to the center lines of the base, and the diagonals are measured at the outer corners.
- Then we bend the nails upward, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
- In the upper part of the plinth, it is convenient to place the bars of the plinth reinforcement on spacers. Then the upper part of the base formwork is fastened with ties. Scraps of reinforcement are laid overlapping and tied with wire.
- In this simple way, a rigid structure was obtained that is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring concrete into the formwork, you need to mark the top pouring line on the boards. Marking the horizon level of the base begins from the most elevated corner on the ground. Marks are made 1-1.5 meters from the starting point and nails are driven in along them through the boards. The height of the base will be shown by the exposed ends of the nails. They will also serve as reference marks when pouring the base.
To create an ideal surface, it is necessary to make marks and constantly control the horizon using a hydraulic level. In hot weather, the poured base should be protected. The concrete needs to be kept in the formwork for about 2-3 days. During the process of building a house, it will gain the required strength.
Unloading construction materials
If during the construction of a house the entire set of building materials was ordered, then you need to think in advance where to unload them.
First, you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back, having first laid out unedged boards on the ground.
After the materials have been unloaded, they must be immediately sorted by type and laid out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of a house is located in the corner between the property line and the road.
In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against the two walls of the base. It is advisable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and sagging of the beams, they need to be laid on even pads laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed lengthwise, the other – across.
Boards are laid on linings made from scrap boards. A gap is left between the boards to allow the stack to “breathe.” Every new row boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the planed plane of the board faces down. Unedged boards should have the wide part facing down.
All stacks must be raised above the ground by at least 20-30 cm.
When all the material has been sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from precipitation with roofing felt. Important detail: On any lumber, any remaining bark must be removed immediately.
Approximate calculation of “related” materials for building a 6x6 house:
— 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
— nails: 200 mm – 16 kg, 150 mm – 8 kg, 120 mm – 6 kg, 100 mm – 20 kg, 70 mm – 10 kg;
— 7 kg of slate nails;
— nails for external and internal cladding;
— 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
— 12 rolls of 15 m of roofing felt for the base, for the subfloor and for the roof.
Floor and walls of a house made of timber
Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before laying the bottom trim, you need to apply two layers of roofing material to the base around the entire perimeter. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent lengthwise and laid on the base.
For tying, smooth beams without cracks, jumps or signs of rot are selected. To prevent water from getting into the cracks between the beams, you need to remove 10x10 mm chamfers on the upper edges. It is better to connect the beams at the corners using a tongue and groove. The dimensions of the tenon should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the tenon.
Using rectangular or round dowels and 200 mm nails, the beams are joined together in a vertical plane.
It is better to cut curved beams into small pieces and lay them in window and door openings.
Must be given Special attention antiseptic treatment of the beams of the first crown. Preheated oil should be used to lubricate the internal and bottom sides beams, while leaving the ends clean. The treated strapping beams are laid on the base and fastened together with staples.
After this, you need to immediately lay out the floor joists. As logs, beams can be used, which are laid every 1 m. If the width of the plinth allows, then the ends of the logs are laid on it. If it doesn’t allow it, then cuts are made into the harness, and the ends of the joists are inserted there.
For large spans, the logs are laid on brick or concrete pillars, which are buried 50 cm in the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the logs must be horizontal and the upper layers must have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the joists.
Then you can start building the walls.
All the timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller beams may be needed. From one large beam you can get 3-4 smaller beams.
The beams are prepared for 2-3 crowns. On lower crown A uniform, even layer of tow is placed, its thickness should be 1 cm. Tow is rolled outward on both sides of the beam by 5-6. The second crown is placed on the tow. Then the tow is put on again, etc. The beams of the new crown are connected with nails to the beams below and the overlying crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Further nails are driven in after 1.5 m.
Window blocks are fastened to the wall beams with nails every 2-3 crowns.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.
In this case, the nails are driven through these boards into the end of the beam. When erecting the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of the walls. The beams need to be fastened at the corners so that they do not come out.
A very crucial moment occurs when laying beams over door and window blocks. To avoid pinching them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the log house.
Next you need to install the scaffolding. They are a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the base and frame. In forests, flooring is very important. It must support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.
For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the scaffolding sag, you need to make it double. The laying of timber can be completed when the height between the floor and ceiling is at least 2.4 meters. The last crown You need to check the elevations and diagonals well and fasten them with staples at the corners. Now the walls are ready.
Roof
There are many different types roofs: single-pitch, gable, hip, hipped, cross, etc. But in dacha construction The most common are gable sloping roofs. Due to their simplicity and ease of installation, they have become very popular. These roofs will also allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.
The roof is based on a reliable ceiling. It should consist of ceiling beams that are laid parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters in length, it is necessary to use beams with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. You can support floor beams using a permanent wall.
The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. Along the top frame of the log house, you need to mark the places where the floor beams need to be placed. Using a hydraulic level you need to achieve a general plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that stick out must be carefully cut off with an ax.
It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the frame by two cornices.
Floor beams can be extended using pieces of 50x150 mm boards. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the beams. Then, for ease of installation, inserts with a depth of 3-5 cm are made on the extensions.
The prepared beams are raised to top harness log frame and placed in places on tow and nailed with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With their help you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The liners are nailed to the beam and to the trim with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.
In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be made on the ground from edged boards. It's better to make a template in life size. So, using a template, you can determine which one mansard roof needs to be built.
The next stage is the installation of the attic frame. It can be done transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, assembly is carried out on the ceiling. In the case of the transverse method, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped tie and 2 racks and installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. The installed U-shaped elements are connected to each other by purlins.
The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve, as the beams may have curvature ceilings. Therefore, it is better to use a longitudinal installation method.
To use this method, it is necessary to free the right side of the floor from the temporary flooring. The racks are laid on the ceiling beams and the upper purlin is attached to them with brackets. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The frame span must be lifted without jerking; at the initial moment of lifting, beams must be placed under the run. After checking the plumb verticality of the racks, secure them with braces.
In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are installed under the purlins that are already raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with purlins are raised and fastened, you need to tie them together using attic beams - floor ties.
When the attic beams are laid and fastened to the purlins with nails, you need to lay unedged boards on them.
The linings, ridge rafters, and crossbars assembled according to the template are installed on ties and secured with nails. Installation begins with the fronts, and then the intermediate ridge rafters are installed.
Now the attic frame is built.
House roof
This is a very responsible job that requires dexterity, knowledge, and skills.
We need to start with preparing the fronts. This preparation consists of installing two transverse and two vertical boards, the cross-section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and secured with nails.
Next you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. It is advisable to place the glassine strips overlapping and horizontally, and attach it to the posts with small nails or felt pins. Usually the pediment is sheathed with clapboard. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally and the upper part vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.
First, the vertical upper part is sewn up. You need to carefully ensure that the boards lie vertically and that the ridge of the catch fits tightly into the groove. You can stuff the catch, and then cut off its ends that protrude above the rafters with a hacksaw.
It is important to nail the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical parts of the sheathing. When sewing up the upper part of the gable, you need to remember that the facing should always be with the groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor horizontality.
Roof sheathing
We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is necessary that the sheathing protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a protrusion should be made to protect the front of the building from being hit storm water. Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roof of the house is roofing material, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.
If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the gable eaves must be accurately determined in accordance with the total length of the sheathing. This can be done using very simple way. It is necessary to lay two boards parallel on the ground across the entire expected width of the roof. It is necessary to place slate on them with the required overlap in a whole wave or half wave.
Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid row and the sheathing is divided into two parts and the required overhang width is obtained.
After the overhang values have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must correspond to the overhang of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these protrusions.
Natural stops are obtained for the intermediate sheathing boards.
The sheathing can be made from unedged boards, if they are nailed downwards. There should be a gap of 5 cm between the boards. When laying the boards, alternate the butt part with the top. It is worth nailing edged boards at the bottom and top of the rafters.
After the sheathing is ready, you should immediately sheathe the gable cornices. This is a very labor-intensive task that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard to reach places and at high altitude. You can immediately sew up the cornices with shields, which can be easily and calmly made on the ground. After they are made, all that remains is to lift them onto the roof and make room for placing the overlays between the sheathing boards.
If the need arises, you can cover the junction of the shield with the gable boards with flashings. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next comes the roof. At the initial stage of construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing material. The rolls need to be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each subsequent strip of roofing material overlaps another strip by at least 10-15 cm.
The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second - with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or antiseptic. It is better to cover a roof covered with roofing felt with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.
The ends of the roofing felt that hang down must be well secured.
Now the house is under a roof. Next will be finishing interior work. This is the most enjoyable stage in building a house.
Interior finishing work
This stage of construction should begin with filling the subfloor. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the joists. And then nail the subfloor boards to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and insulation is placed on top of it. Mineral wool or expanded clay can be used as insulation. Glassine should be placed on top of the insulation.
Finished floor boards are placed on the joists front side, and the nails are not driven in completely. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail them down completely.
When flashing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.
After the ceiling is lined, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, insulation is placed, then glassine is added again and the floorboards are nailed.
After this, the attic ceiling is hemmed.
At the interior finishing stage, door and window units. They are secured with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with 100-120 mm nails. Tow is packed into the cracks, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. The threshold of the door block should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.
When fixing window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed above the upper casing, and a drain should be installed on the bottom board.
We need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. The simplest design is the one-flight staircase.
The lower part rests on the floor, and the upper part rests on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are prepared. To make a bowstring, it is better to purchase lumber with a cross-section of 60x200 mm.
For the steps it is necessary to select dry material with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.
The steps are laid on bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and fastened with 100 mm nails to the strings. The contact points of the staircase to the attic and to the floor are determined. Cuts are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits tightly to the wall and floor.
The second string is cut out from this blank. Both strings are combined, and marks for future steps are applied on the outer edges. The bars are nailed to these marks, and then the steps. Steps with outside the bowstrings are nailed with decorative hats.
At all times, wooden houses were considered the warmest and most environmentally friendly. They have high heat and soundproofing properties. If earlier wooden houses were built from logs, then modern ones can be built from ordinary, glued or profiled timber.
A house built from timber has a beautiful and rich appearance, and inside it creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort. It is very easy to breathe in it, as wood has good air permeability.
The timber differs in manufacturing technology (glued and solid wood) and humidity (dry and natural humidity), profile. The most popular are profile and laminated timber. They have a rectangular or square cross-section.
The profile beam has a certain profile and resembles a log. Its bottom and top sides are machined so that they fit snugly where they meet. Glued laminated timber has all straight sides.
It must be remembered that during use the wood cracks and shrinks.
Glued laminated timber does not have this drawback, since it consists of pre-processed boards glued together with a special glue. Due to the fact that the beam has a rectangular or square shape in cross-section, it is convenient to lay it. The tongue-and-groove fastening system in profiled timber simplifies installation.
Therefore, even a person who has only a little construction experience can build a house from timber with his own hands. In addition, it is easy to do internal and external finishing, since the geometrically correct shape allows you to obtain smooth surfaces.
Any material can be used for cladding. Thanks to the tight fit of the timber, the formation of cold bridges is eliminated.
Foundation structure
Like any permanent structure, a house made of timber needs a foundation. The foundation is the foundation of the house and the service life of the entire structure depends on its quality.
The most suitable for a wooden house is a strip foundation, especially if it is planned to build a basement or cellar under the house.
It is able to withstand significant loads and does not require special equipment during construction. For muddy, wet and loose soils It is better to build a pile-grillage foundation.
It is different from strip foundation When installing concrete piles in trenches, you can use asbestos pipes as piles. A solid foundation is possible concrete slab, in this case it acts as a subfloor.
Let's consider phased construction do it yourself the most popular strip foundation. First of all, the marking of the future house is carried out: the location of the external walls and load-bearing internal walls.
To do this, pegs are driven in at the corners and load-bearing walls and the fishing line is pulled. After tensioning the line, you need to measure the diagonals, they should be the same. According to the markings, trenches are dug, the width of which should exceed the thickness of the walls by 10 centimeters.
The depth of the trenches should be below the soil freezing level, but not less than 60 centimeters. At this stage, a pit is dug according to the dimensions of the future basement or cellar pit. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand and gravel or crushed stone, 10 centimeters each. In order for the sand to be better compacted, it must be moistened. Concrete 5 centimeters thick is poured on top of these layers.
At the next stage, do-it-yourself installation of wooden formwork from 20 mm thick boards is carried out. When installing formwork, spacers are placed inside for strength, and with external parties it is supported by support boards.
The rods are laid along and across the trench, tying the intersections with wire. After reinforcement it is poured concrete mortar. When pouring concrete, to avoid the formation of air bubbles in it, you should use a cement vibrator or compact it manually.
When concrete hardens, it must be constantly moistened so that it does not crack during hardening. According to standards, concrete must harden for at least 28 days. After the foundation has completely hardened, you can begin building the walls.
If you understand that you cannot handle the construction on your own, then you can contact the company and order a house according to your or your project. For example, look at these options for houses made of pine, they are quite well designed, and the company’s experience and quality of materials are not in doubt among the professional community.
Watch our video collection on the topic:
Construction of walls and laying floors
Before you start laying the first crown along the entire perimeter of the base, you need to lay a waterproofing layer over two layers of roofing material. This layer will protect the walls from moisture penetration.
The layers should be laid in the following sequence: a layer of bitumen, a layer of roofing felt, then again a layer of bitumen and a layer of roofing felt. The width of the insulation should exceed the foundation by 30 cm.
Then the construction of the walls begins. Timber is taken for the walls depending on climatic conditions. If frosts do not drop more than 30 degrees, then timber about 150 mm thick is taken. Otherwise, the timber is taken thicker. The main load bears on the bottom trim, so it is advisable to place a backing board made of larch 5 cm thick under the first crown.
It is needed so that in the future, if repairs are required, not the entire lower crown is replaced, but only the wedding board.
Boards and all timber should be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic to protect against rotting and harmful insects, as well as with fire-retardant compounds that protect against burning.
The first crown is laid halfway across the tree, regardless of how subsequent crowns are laid. There are three corner connection methods:
- end to end;
- half a tree;
- using a root spike.
After the first or second crown, floor logs are laid. If the base allows, then the logs are laid on it; if not, then they crash into the first crown. The rigidity of the structure is ensured by the joists and the finished floor.
Therefore, the thickness of the finished floor depends on the distance between the joists. How less distance between the joists, the thinner the finished floor can be.
For example, with a distance between the joists of 40-70 cm, a floor with a thickness of 25-40 mm is laid. The logs must be laid strictly horizontally. A subfloor made of unedged boards.
A layer of waterproofing, a layer of insulation, a layer of vapor barrier are laid successively on top of the subfloor, and finally the finishing floor is laid.
In the future, each new crown is laid after the previous one is installed. Insulation is laid between the beams: jute, tow or flax. It is better to use tape insulation of a suitable length, which is secured with a stapler.
The gasket eliminates the formation of cold bridges, prevents condensation from collecting and mold from forming. This allows you to extend the life of the house. The crowns are fastened together using vertical pins - dowels. They prevent the beam from twisting and moving.
Pins can be wooden or metal. Metal ones are more reliable, but they are more expensive. Install the dowels in increments of one and a half meters. They usually pass through 2-3 crowns, holes 3-4 cm in diameter are drilled in a checkerboard pattern.
When laying timber, it is necessary to install window and door frames, cutting the timber to the appropriate length. The boxes are attached to the timber with nails.
If there are no boxes, then temporary risers are installed from unedged boards with the dimensions of future window frames. Internal partitions are made only after the construction of the log house and are cut into the main walls.
If a two-story house is being built, the dimensions of which are more than 6x6 meters, then at least one partition must be installed on the first floor, which will act as an additional support for the floor on the second floor.
After the first floor of the house is laid out with your own hands, the second floor is covered and the construction of the log house continues.
The ceiling acts as a subfloor on the second floor. Waterproofing on the second floor is not needed. The insulation layer is made for best warmth and soundproofing of the floor. The construction market offers wide choose floor coverings:
- parquet board;
- linoleum;
- laminate;
- tile;
- carpeting, etc.
Any covering is suitable for a house made of timber; it is important that it is in harmony with the interior of the room and matches the overall design of the rooms.
Roof installation
After the walls are erected, the construction of the roof begins. Roofs can be single-pitched, gable, broken, cross, hipped and others. The most popular are gable and broken.
Due to their simplicity, they can be easily installed with your own hands. In addition, the design of these roofs allows the construction of an attic.
Roof installation consists of the following steps:
- installation of the rafter system;
- installation of a waterproofing layer;
- installation of a thermal insulation layer;
- styling roofing material.
The basis of the roof is the ceiling. It must be durable and reliable. Ceiling beams are used for its installation. They are laid in increments of at least one meter. When laying beams, you must use a level to achieve a general plane and perfect horizontality.
Then, using rafters, the structure of the future roof is mounted. It is rigidly fixed using crossbars, spacers and racks. First, a frame of rafters is installed, which are laid at a distance of one meter from each other. Then the fronts are laid out with timber or boards.
At the last stage, lathing is placed on the rafters in increments of at least 40 cm. Next, a waterproofing and thermal insulation layer is installed.
When the roof frame is ready and all layers have been laid, you can begin to lay the roof. The main purpose of the roof is to protect the house from precipitation and external mechanical influences, but it must also be in harmony with appearance the whole house.
The most popular types of roofing materials are metal tiles, slate, ondulin and corrugated sheets. The cheapest roofing option is to lay roofing material on the sheathing and cover it with slate sheets on top.
Care and finishing work
If you build a house with your own hands from laminated veneer lumber, then immediately after its construction you can begin finishing works. According to the rules, it takes about two years for a wooden house to shrink. During this time, the tree adapts to the climatic conditions where the house is located.
During this period, it is important to ventilate the room all the time to allow it to dry thoroughly and prevent rotting. After shrinkage, all cracks and cracks that appear on the walls must be sealed using a special mastic and constantly covered up as they appear in the future.
After the log house has shrunk, windows and doors are installed and you can begin to decorate it internally and externally. Houses made of profiled timber do not need finishing; they are beautiful in themselves.
In other cases external finishing involves painting or covering the entire facade with facing materials. Interior decoration consists of finishing the ceiling and walls.
If finances allow or it is not possible to build a house with your own hands, you can buy a ready-made one. Prices for such houses depend on architectural project and designs.
Their cost ranges from 7 thousand rubles to 20 thousand rubles per square meter. The more complex the project, the more expensive it is, especially if the house is built according to an individual project.
Below is a table of approximate prices for houses made of profiled timber:
| House size, meters | Beam 100×150 mm, thousand rubles | Beam 150×150 mm, thousand rubles | Beam 150×200 mm, thousand rubles |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5x5 | 350 | 390 | 450 |
| 6x4 | 450 | 530 | 590 |
| 6x7 | 530 | 610 | 650 |
| 6x8 | 550 | 630 | 690 |
| 6x9 | 739 | 790 | 850 |
| 7x9 | 865 | 895 | 987 |
Houses made of laminated veneer lumber are about one and a half to two times more expensive. This is due to more complex production technology.
So that the house lasts long years, you need to constantly look after him. Renew the protective coating regularly every 3-4 years. Monitor the condition of the foundation; it should not be flooded to avoid rotting. With proper care, a house built from timber with your own hands can become a family nest and will last for decades.
Everyone dreams of their own home. However, often, buying already ready house, you can purchase several unpleasant “surprises” bundled with it, and it’s already difficult to remake it to your liking.
It’s a completely different matter when a house is built from the very beginning to the end independently according to a personal project. The construction of a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is carried out in stages in the same way as at home, so you can consider it in the general case for these two buildings.
Construction stages
The entire process of building a bathhouse or house from timber or logs consists of several successive stages:
- project preparation;
- preparation of terrain, materials and tools;
- construction of the foundation;
- construction of the floor;
- walling;
- floor and roof installation;
- windows, doors;
- internal and external finishing.
Project preparation, preparation of terrain and materials
We can safely say that preparation is not subject to any standards. In this matter, everyone is their own boss, so there is no need to talk about any technology or rules.
As for materials and tools, it’s the other way around, everything is standard. For each hotel location, the necessary materials will be considered separately. The same applies to tools.
A house made of timber is being built with your own hands in stages on a flat and prepared site. But it is necessary not only to level the site, but also to remove all unnecessary things.
In rare cases, preparation involves very labor-intensive process– replacement of the soil layer. This is only necessary in cases where the soil has a very low resistance coefficient.
Construction of the foundation
There are currently three known types of foundations:
- columnar;
- tape;
- slab.
For a private house, a strip foundation is best suited.
It is more labor-intensive and expensive, but it has its advantages:
- has a huge bearing capacity, which allows you to avoid making the corresponding calculations;
- quite simple in its implementation;
These two advantages eliminate many of the difficulties that a columnar foundation entails.
We will consider the technology of constructing a strip foundation.
To calculate materials for strip foundations, you can use the calculator:
To do this you will need the following tool:
- shovel:
- hammer;
- wood hacksaw;
- a welding machine or a crochet hook for steel wire, or a special machine for knitting;
- mixing containers cement mortar, as well as containers for clean water.
- So, it all starts with marking the terrain. You can do it using a rope and pegs, or simply by drawing lines on the ground. You can check the correctness of the markings using a tape measure.
- You just need to measure both diagonals in the rectangle - they should be the same. This will mean that the foundation is level.
- Next you need to dig a pit. He digs to the depth of laying the foundation, plus another 20-30 cm. The width should be 5-7 cm more than necessary.
- It must be said that if you plan not to arrange formwork for the foundation, then the width of the pit can be the same as the width of the casting part of the foundation itself.
Advice!
If you are building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands in stages, then you can not make formwork for the foundation, since it is being erected with the aim of giving the tape an even shape, and in in this case this is not required.
- Only in the case when the tape rises above the ground is it simply impossible to do without formwork.
- So, the casting part of the foundation should have a width that will allow you to easily lay a beam or log on it. Often only 15 cm is enough for this, but such a foundation can simply crack.
- The minimum width of the casting part should be 25-30 cm.
- After the trench is dug, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured onto its bottom. The thickness of the layer is about 10-15 cm. Then the same layer of sand is poured. At the same time, this layer is carefully compacted. Sand can be compacted using water.
- Then you can pour the foundation. For a bathhouse, part of the trench can be filled with construction scrap, that is, pieces of broken slate, broken brick, glass, and so on. Every 30-40 cm of such a layer is shed with a liquid solution.
- The last approximately 50 cm is filled with clean concrete.
- If the foundation is being built for a house, then it is better not only to make it entirely from monolithic concrete, but also to reinforce. Used for reinforcement steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Belts are made from wire, and the frame is made from belts.
Concrete is prepared according to the following proportions:
- 1 part cement;
- 3 parts sand;
- 2 parts crushed stone or gravel;
- water.
This ratio is only suitable for cement grade M500 and higher.
If the formwork was not erected, then after the trench is completely filled, it should be allowed to dry. This may take from several days to 2-3 weeks.
After this, in any case, it is necessary to build a base. It can be made from red brick.
You can easily make even laying with your own hands using a plumb line or a water level.
After the foundation has completely dried, a layer of waterproofing is placed on top. It can be represented by a layer of roofing material.
If formwork was erected, it is removed only after 3-4 days in normal weather, but the foundation should not yet be exposed, since it will not have time to gain the required percentage of strength.
Construction of the floor
For this work you will need the following materials:
- timber with a section of 100 by 50 mm;
- board with a thickness of about 25 mm;
- wood screws;
- dowel for bars;
- tow or moss.
It all begins with the erection of the first crown.
Advice!
The first crown must be laid as evenly as possible, since it is along it that all subsequent crowns will be laid.
In addition, the first crown needs to be impregnated with an antiseptic, since it is most susceptible to moisture from the soil.
The beams for the walls should have a section of 150 by 150 mm. For joists and internal walls - 100 by 50 mm.
To make a junction of beams, that is, a log, you can use two methods of attaching logs:
- half a log;
- "dovetail" or "frying pan".
Fastening in the second way involves coupling in such a way that both beams are in the same horizontal plane.
This type of connection is shown in the following photo.
Frying pan connection
This method is the most optimal, although more labor-intensive. To connect two beams together, you can use the “tenon” method. To do this, a tenon is cut at the end of one beam, and a groove of the same size is cut at the end of the second beam.
Since sometimes the length of the log is quite large, pillars need to be erected under it. They can be made from bricks and mortar.
It is worth saying that it is better to lay beams for lags on the edge. The logs should be placed in increments of 40 to 100 cm, depending on the expected load.
After laying the logs, subfloor boards are placed on them. You can make a sheathing on the bottom of the joists, and lay a heat insulator on it. For the subfloor, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are used.
Afterwards, you can immediately lay on this subfloor fine coating, for example, tongue and groove boards 28 by 36 mm.
Walling
Step-by-step construction of a house made of timber with your own hands, the next step involves the construction of walls. This is done by sequentially erecting crowns of timber.
All beams can be fastened at the corners using the “half-log” or “tenon” method, which was discussed a little higher.
It is worth saying a little about profiled timber. It differs from the usual one in that it has ready-made grooves. Therefore, the stages of building a house from profiled timber, and specifically the process of erecting walls, are slightly different from the same work from ordinary timber.
The difference is that ordinary timber needs to be fastened every 2-3 crowns. This is done using . For them, a hole is drilled in the beams, which passes through several beams, for example, through two. A dowel is driven into this hole, which can be either wooden or metal.
The rest of the construction stages timber house made from profiled and ordinary timber is no different.
As for the internal walls, they should be erected simultaneously with the construction of the main walls.
Each subsequent crown should be placed on a layer of moss or tow.
Ceiling and roof
The ceiling is made from the same materials as the floor, that is, 100 by 50 mm beams are used as beams. Beams are laid in the same way as joists.
They are hemmed from the bottom and top. Placed on the boards of the lower cladding vapor barrier film, and a heat insulator is placed on top. The top of the beams can also be sheathed with boards.
The rafter system is also made from timber 100 by 50 mm. Rafters are installed at the same frequency as beams. The rafters must be attached to the beams.
The top of the rafter system is sheathed with boards that will serve as sheathing. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and roofing material is placed on top.