Self-repair of a toilet in an apartment. How to carry out high-quality bathroom renovations without involving outside specialists. We repair the toilet room with our own hands.

Step-by-step instruction bathroom and toilet renovation.

In the opinion of most finishers, you should definitely start renovating an apartment from the bathroom. I’ll explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the renovation, requiring not only the dismantling of old tiles, plumbing fixtures, doors, and sometimes the entire bathroom walls.

We remove the old

So, the first thing we do is This means taking out old plumbing fixtures: bathtub, sink, toilet... In short, everything that stands, weighs, lies.

Next stage: Using a grinder, we cut off all the old pipes to the tap located on the riser.

Using a hammer drill we knock down old tiles .

It’s important that if the plaster under the tiles comes away from the wall, it’s booming...it also needs to be beaten off.

Dismantling old door with box.

Changing risers. Now we turn our attention to the water supply and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the repair and they must be changed. After the renovation this will be very problematic. If you are not an expert in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but internal wiring You can do the plumbing yourself.

Checking the hood. Let's move on to the hood. If we don’t want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its performance by the flame: the better the hood works, the more intense the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood is not working correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.

Preparing the walls and floor

Prime the walls. On next stage I suggest cleaning up thoroughly: take a broom and sweep out all the garbage and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take the primer deep penetration and prime the walls.

We install beacons. After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Beacons must be installed strictly level, maintaining the plane of the wall and maintaining angles of 90 degrees.

Plastering the walls. Have you installed beacons? Let's start plastering. To do this we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a mixer attachment for the drill. Bathrooms are usually plastered dry gypsum mixtures, fortunately there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. Take a 12 liter bucket and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, spread the mortar between the beacons of one wall, 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it against the beacons and pull it up - we get a flat surface. We remove unnecessary things from the rule. And so on all the walls - from floor to ceiling. If there are any small holes left, it doesn’t matter – we then smooth them out with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, it means you have completed the task.

Leveling the floors. The next stage is the floors. We level them using self-leveling floors. We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, maybe even a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor using a needle roller. After drying, the walls and floors are checked for level, just in case, and any unevenness is corrected.

Making a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? How? and at what altitude? there will be a bathtub, sink, mirror, washing machine(if available), towel dryer, toilet, box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper and sketch everything out. Let's call it a bathroom plan. In order for the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to size (I mean that your bathtub is not half the size of a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then the bathtub needs to be bought as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. – you need to buy a bathtub 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. Let's fix it. This seems to have been sorted out.

Video - turnkey bathtub renovation

We make (sketch) detailed markings of the water supply and sewerage systems. If everything is purchased, then we continue. We assemble a bathtub in a free room. We put it on its legs and level it. As a rule, the height of the legs of most bathtubs is adjustable - we adjust the height to suit ourselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the wall in the bathroom. All the same - we do the same with the sink and washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how we will have water supply and sewerage. The bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bathtub - this also needs to be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes going to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the water supply for the sink based on the structural features of the cabinet and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. We mark only one pipe for the washing machine – the cold one. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If you can do it under the bathtub and sink big slope, then the outlet under the washing machine should be at a distance of 50cm. from the floor.

We make (sketch) detailed markings of the electrical wiring. The next thing we do is decide on the electrical wiring. How many outlets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric razor next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to run a wire under it (decide at what height). If there is a fan, we will take it out under it.

Making grooves. When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a hammer drill and punch it according to the plan. Next, we clean up and prime the grooves.

We install water supply and sewerage. At the next stage, we install a water supply system (comb) and a sewer system. Don't forget to also install water meters and filters. Since our water supply is hidden in the walls, use better pipes made of polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

We install a heated towel rail. At the next stage, we invite craftsmen or install the heated towel rail ourselves. Pipes are also mounted into the wall.

We mount the box. So we still have unclosed risers, and we are fixing it. We assemble a box from a metal profile and cover it with plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it is green. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed to have access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.

Prime the walls and floor. As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again we look at everything in detail for any irregularities. If there are any, we fix them using a spatula and sandpaper.

Laying out the floor. Now we lay out the floor with tiles. For this we will need a drill, a mixer, a bucket, a regular spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm).

We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathtub and sink. This way we will only have the whole tile visible. Don't forget to use a level and insert crosses.

We lay out 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor. Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use small tiles, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be enough.

Grinding the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).

Installing a bath. It's time for a bath. We bring the bath in, set it strictly according to the level and length and width. We open the bathtub.

Laying wall tiles. Lay out wall tiles. We start right from the bathtub, from the most visible corner, and move in a circle. You need to drill slats from the sides of the bath so that all the tiles are level. Finish the top, remove the slats and add the bottom. Let the tile dry and remove the crosses.

Cleaning the seams.

We rub the seams.

We mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, hanging from plastic panels, tension. They are all good in their own way, it's up to you to choose.

We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing fixtures - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, bath screen.

All that remains is to hang the mirror, install sockets and the bath is ready.

This order of work will not allow you to make the most common mistakes, when the quality of the work performed suffers, and sometimes leads to redoing.

Happy renovation!

Sooner or later, all of us have to face such a problem as renovating a toilet room. Unlike other premises, quality repairs may require replacement of sanitaryware, water pipes, installation of meters. And the cost of finishing can vary significantly, depending on the chosen material. In this article we will look at how to do quality work at minimum costs and where to start repairing the toilet.

For convenience, the entire process of repairing a toilet can be divided into separate stages.

Before starting all work, it is necessary to work out the design and layout of the bathroom, select the expected type of finishing materials and plumbing fixtures, and draw up an estimate taking into account unforeseen expenses.

Cleaning the premises

A complete renovation in a Khrushchev-era building involves clearing everything installed in the toilet. Only the supply pipes, riser and bare walls and ceiling should remain. For convenience, it is better to carry out the work in the following sequence:

We knock off the old tiles from the walls using a hammer drill or a hammer and chisel. Old plaster or it is also better to remove wallpaper by first soaking it with water. If we carry out finishing on the old coating, we will have to reduce the size of the room by 3-5 cm, which for such small space undesirable. Moreover, it is unreliable and short-lived.
Filming tiles on the floor. We clean the resulting surfaces with a metal brush attachment on a drill.
We wash the whitewash from the ceiling and wash away dust and dirt from the walls.
Now you can start dismantling the plumbing. To do this, shut off the cold and hot water. If you are renovating a combined bathroom, you will need to disconnect the sink along with the faucet and drain. Usually, after old sinks, the mounting brackets remain - they also need to be dismantled.
The toilet itself can be left until the last minute so that you can use it. Before removal, drain the water from the tank, unscrew the toilet fastenings to the floor and knock off the place where it drains into the riser, if it is cemented. We remove the drain pipe all the way to the riser; it will no longer be useful.

The better the room is cleaned at this stage, the easier it will be to do finishing work later, especially with tiles and wallpaper. The exception is finishing with PVC panels, for which it is enough to make a frame on top of the old walls.

Replacement and repair of communications

Having received open access to the riser and supply pipes for hot and cold water, you can begin to replace, repair, and install meters. In old houses, the wear and tear of all communications reaches extreme values, so it is worth taking care of replacing the riser and pipes in your apartment. The best material for the riser will be reinforced polypropylene, and it is better to entrust all work on its replacement to specialists from the housing office. It will be faster and better quality self-replacement. Responsibility for the work performed and possible accidents will lie with the installers and the management company.

Further intra-apartment wiring can be done on your own using a metal-plastic pipe or corrugated stainless steel. Plastic pipes They cut well and are easily connected to each other using fittings and a special soldering iron. This connection turns out to be very reliable and durable, and a wide range of pipes and fittings allows you to build wiring of any configuration in the bathroom.

The pipes themselves are gray or white They look quite aesthetically pleasing, but it would be more correct to put them in special boxes, which will then be covered with finishing materials.

For small toilet This optimal solution– the riser is closed with a vertical, and the pipe distribution is closed with a horizontal box made of moisture-resistant plasterboard or plywood. Additional sound insulation can be placed in the vertical box.

It is also possible to lay the pipe in a specially hollowed out cavity in the wall. This option looks more aesthetically pleasing and takes up less space. You just need to make sure that the valves that shut off the water to the apartment are easily accessible.

Preparation and finishing of surfaces

It is best to start with the walls and ceiling. So concrete walls quite simple, but brick or cinder block walls may require. In general, the planes in such small rooms rarely have strong deviations, otherwise you will have to resort to cladding with plasterboard or PVC panels.

For puttying we will need two spatulas - a working one, 30 cm long and an auxiliary one, 5 cm long, putty mixture on cement based, for example, Vetonit. Preferably a drill with a special attachment and a bucket. The finished mixture is applied to the base with a short spatula, and then spread from bottom to top along the wall. By changing the angle of inclination of the working tool, you can fill deep depressions and level the already applied putty. After 3-4 hours you can re-treat problem areas. The time for complete drying of the putty is 24 hours. Then the wall is sanded and primed.

After leaving the walls to dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this, a quick-drying screed is used. The mixture is prepared based on 1 m2 with a thickness of 1 cm, 12-13 kg of dry material will be required. Pour the resulting solution in a thin layer onto the floor, and then level it with a spatula, checking the installed beacons and level. It is necessary to obtain a flat horizontal surface.

When all preparatory work done, it’s time to implement your toilet renovation ideas. It is also better to start finishing with the walls and ceiling.

Wall coverings

When choosing a material, you must be guided by the same principles as for a bathroom or a combined bathroom. In old houses, the toilet is a small, unventilated room with high humidity, in which wet cleaning will be carried out periodically.

Therefore, preference is given to moisture-resistant materials that do not absorb odors and are easy to clean.

Walls made of PVC panels

Laying tiles is similar to the work carried out on the floor in the toilet, and the features of installing plastic panels are worth considering in more detail.

We measure the area of all walls minus the windows and doorway. We also include the costs of covering the technological boxes and make a small reserve for trimming and fitting. All PVC panels are available in lengths from 2.5 to 3 meters, standard width 30 cm. We calculate the whole number of strips and additional elements - corners, skirting boards, connecting profiles.
We attach lathing to the walls from wooden slats or metal profile. They should be located horizontally and as often as possible for greater rigidity of the entire structure. Fastening is carried out using dowels. At this stage we attach the mounting rails for fastening hanging cabinets, mirrors and water heaters, we lay the wiring to sockets and switches.
The fastening of the first panel begins from the corner. We fix it using a self-tapping screw with a press washer or small nails, each subsequent one is inserted into the groove of the previous one. This ensures a seamless coating, and it is impossible to make a mistake with such an assembly.
Excess material can be cut off with a knife or grinder. After completion of the work, the corners are covered with additional elements, and the joints of the floor and ceiling with plinths.
Ceiling cladding with PVC panels is carried out in the same way.

Tiling walls and floors

Ceramic tiles are available in any size, color range and for any wallet. This material is very durable and practical, which is why its popularity is so high. The only disadvantages include labor intensity and a large amount of dust and debris.

Let's look at how to renovate a toilet using tiles:

Walls and floors must be pre-prepared and primed. You can additionally apply an antifungal primer, and if the installation is on top of drywall, then special mixture type concrete contact, for better adhesion. All communications and wiring are laid in cable channels.
We begin laying tiles on the floor from the corner near front door. For walls you need to screw the base metallic profile around the entire perimeter, carefully checking its level.
The glue is sold dry and prepared in small portions immediately before installation, so that it can be used within 30 minutes. Kneading is carried out using a drill with an attachment.
Apply the glue with a notched trowel from bottom to top; the layer of glue should approximately correspond to the thickness of the tile. The first tile is placed in the corner, the next one next to it, and so on. We attach plastic crosses in between to ensure evenness of the gaps.
Floor tiles can be laid in one go, but wall tiles, due to their heavy weight, are best not glued more than 3-4 rows at a time. It would be right to take a break for a day so that the glue finally sets on the wall.
The tiles are cut using a special tile cutter; you can use a grinder with a special abrasive disc. During this procedure, defects are possible, so the number of tiles should be purchased with a reserve.
After the tiles are completely glued, the crosses can be removed and the seams can be filled with cement grout - fugue. This is done rubber spatula, and the shade of the solution is selected to match the color scheme of the toilet. It is better to choose a dark or gray grout mixture for the floor - it will not get so dirty underfoot.

Plumbing installation

When all the dirty finishing work is completed, you can begin the final stage of toilet renovation. You should start by installing the toilet.

Having installed the toilet on the floor, they try it on and use a marker to mark its location and mounting points.
We move the toilet to the side and drill holes for the dowels that secure it to the floor.
We screw the toilet and cover the bolt heads with decorative caps.
We connect the toilet pipe with a corrugated pipe to the pipe on the riser. We seal with special rings with cuffs to make the connection airtight.
We install the flush tank on a special platform on top or attach it to the wall. We assemble the insides of the tank - float, valve, flush lever and connect it to the cold water supply pipe according to the instructions.

If the size of the room or a combined bathroom allows, then it is necessary to install a sink and faucet. For ease of installation, it is better to assemble and connect the mixer before attaching the sink to the wall. Having attached the washbasin to the wall using dowels or anchors, we proceed to connect the flexible hoses to the pre-installed threaded fittings. IN last resort We install a siphon and a drain into the sewerage system with a rubber seal.

After installation is completed, the entire system must be flushed with plenty of water. All identified leaks are repaired. Now you can cover the communications and drain with a decorative pedestal or cabinet. The joints between the floor and the toilet can be filled with silicone sealant.

With minimal tools and skills finishing works You can easily realize your creative ideas for renovating a toilet. You can do this yourself - quickly and inexpensively.

Roman Shirokiy

Reading time: 6 minutes

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Hello, dear readers! Continuing the topic of renovation, I’ll tell you where to start renovating your bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many people renovating these premises are faced with this question.

If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start repairing it yourself at home by working out the same color scheme and style. Even if the rooms are separated, they are one whole. The design is chosen to be the same or similar in the type of finishing materials used and color.

The toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to cover the premises with tiles of the same type, but of different shades. If you use the same technique finishing, you will get different rooms that will create different moods. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

Video tips

I think now you understand why it is better to use the same tiles and decor to decorate the bathtub and toilet. This approach will help you save money. After finishing, there will be scraps left, which will most likely find a place in the second room.

Where to start renovating a bathroom

A bathroom is a room in which a person is left alone with thoughts and emotions. Here he takes a shower, relaxes, rests after a hard day, gets rid of irritation and fatigue, and gets a boost of energy.

The described effect will only be achieved by a convenient and comfortable bathroom.

Step-by-step bathroom renovation plan

Measure the room . Take a piece of paper, a pencil, a tape measure and measure the length and height of the walls, the area of the room. Based on the figures obtained, calculate the amount of materials that will be required to renovate the bathroom.
Visualize a new bathroom . Decide on the color and type of finishing materials, the location of the bathtub, furniture and accessories.
Prepare the room . Clean the bathroom walls and ceiling of old finishes. The work is dusty and dirty, so wear a respirator. You will need a hammer drill, a spatula, a metal brush and other equipment.
Treat the walls with primer . Lay the electrical wiring and level the ceiling with putty. At this stage, mark the vertical and horizontal lines using a level or plumb line.
Replacement of water supply . It’s a responsible step, I don’t recommend saving on it. We are talking about replacing the water supply, risers and sewerage in the bathroom.
Floor waterproofing . Doing cement screed, water will not leak to the neighbors. Treat the joints between the walls and the floor, and the entire area of the bathroom, with a special waterproofing solution.
For finishing walls and floors . Try installing bathroom tiles yourself. If you don’t have the skills, ask a tiler for help. Some, for the sake of economy, do not tile the space behind and under the bathtub. It is better to tile the surfaces and place the bathtub on tiles. A screen will help hide the side and communications.
Door installation . If you are going to replace your bathroom door, do it before installing the tiles.
Skirting and ceiling . At the end, install a decorative plinth around the perimeter of the ceiling and paint the ceiling water-based paint. If this option for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is not suitable, pay attention to suspended ceilings or structures made of plastic panels. All that remains is to seal the seams.

Video instructions

Following the instructions, you will reach the final stage. Finally, install the sink, hang the mirror and lamp, and install the furniture. The end result will be a beautiful room.

Where to start renovating a toilet

People face difficulties while renovating their washroom. The toilet is an important part of the home, which I advise you to repair thoroughly and correctly, taking into account all the little things. I’ll tell you below where to start the painstaking process.

As with the bathroom, I advise you to start renovating the toilet by preparing the room. First of all, remove old toilet, remove old from the walls, floor and ceiling Decoration Materials.
Connect water and sewerage to the installation site of the new toilet. If the sewage system in the apartment is made of cast iron pipes, replace plastic products. If pipe replacement is not planned, limit yourself to a plastic supply. It is better to connect pipes using special inserts. Do not forget about the slope that is required for the normal functioning of the sewer system.
Pay attention to communications. If they run along the wall, close them in a box. Be sure to ensure that the box is removed or disassembled. This makes it easier to troubleshoot problems caused by leaks.
Before starting plastering work, place beacons on the walls of the toilet. Using this as a guide, align the walls. After the plaster has dried, lay the tiles.
Switch to the floor. First, make a concrete screed, and after drying, lay the tiles. Do not install the toilet right away; it will interfere with the work in the upper part of the room.
There are many options for decorating toilet walls. What finishing material to choose is up to you, but I recommend tiles. If such cladding is not to your liking, the market offers photo wallpaper, mosaic tiles, a natural stone or wood finish.
Take care of the ceiling. A plasterboard ceiling is suitable for a toilet room. It will hide the wiring and ventilation system. If you add a decorative baseboard, the result will be beautiful.
Lastly, install a light in the toilet, secure the toilet and attach a paper holder to the wall. I advise you to immediately equip the toilet with shelves for storing air freshener and supplies of toilet paper.

Having gone through a difficult path, in the end you will get a result that will delight you with freshness and uniqueness. But the thought that the author of the masterpiece is you yourself will bring more pleasure.

Where to start repairing a combined bathroom

A combined bathroom has disadvantages and advantages. The main disadvantage is that the room is available only to one household member. Plus – the opportunity to expand the area of the bathroom. A washing machine or a cabinet for accessories can easily be installed in the combined bathroom.

IN modern apartments The toilet is separate from the bathroom. In this case, the premises are characterized small area and there are often cases when a few centimeters are missing to install furniture or other items. To fully consider the issue, let's look at how to combine a bathroom and toilet.

How to combine a bathroom and toilet

This type of repair, in addition to construction work, provides for “paperwork.” According to the rules, redevelopment of the apartment must be approved by the relevant authorities. In this case, changes are made to the housing plan.

When creating a preliminary plan, note the relocation of plumbing, electrical wiring and plumbing system changes. This is an incomplete list of factors that should not be ignored. Work on combining a bathroom - small technical part a huge job.

Having approved the plan, switch to repairs. It’s better if the household members go on a summer vacation for a while. As a result, they will protect themselves from discomfort, and no one will disturb you.

Take down the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, straighten the walls, which are usually extremely crooked.
Rework the pipes. If necessary, change their location so that they do not interfere. The same goes for the heated towel rail.
The next step involves installing the electrical wiring. Route cables, locate switches and sockets, and install.
Prime the walls and level the floor using concrete screed. Before installation flooring, be it tiles or other finishing material, fill the floor with bitumen. This will reduce the likelihood of flooding your neighbors if there is a leak.
Stretch ceilings are a good option for a combined unit. Just entrust their installation to professionals, since arranging the ceiling requires the use of special equipment and skills.
Finish the walls and lay the flooring. To visually expand the space of the room, build a large mirror into each wall. The combined bathroom will turn out beautiful and original.
The final stage renovation involves installing plumbing, placing furniture, connecting household appliances, installation of bath accessories - hanging soap dishes, hooks.

If you want to achieve results, listen to the recommendations. They will help the repair to be completed quickly and successfully. When the family returns home, the beauty of the combined bathroom will surprise you.

Selection of furniture and bathroom layout

I devote the final part of the article to the layout of the bathroom and the intricacies of choosing furniture. If you have the finances, organize in your home separate bathroom, especially if the family is large. As a result, several people will be able to relieve themselves at the same time. If you like a combined bathroom, make sure it has a sliding partition. Use it to divide the room into zones.

Room size. To make the toilet convenient and comfortable, allocate a few square meters for arrangement. No extra space will be required. Design your bathroom based on your tastes and preferences, but you shouldn’t overdo it with space – 6-10 square meters is plenty.

Furniture . Before buying furniture, decide what you want to see in the room. Usually this is a set of a sink, a mirror, a pencil case and a floor cabinet. Sometimes a hanging cabinet is provided. Before purchasing a bath set, make sure of the quality. The paint should lie in an even layer on the surface of the furniture.

Accessories. From accessories, choose models equipped with chrome legs, metal handles and hinges. The fittings are also made of plastic, covered with a layer of chrome. It is not worth buying such furniture, since chrome-plated or gold-plated plastic handles will quickly lose their original appearance.

Sink . Be sure to inspect the sink for chips and damage. Check integrity products are lightweight tapping. Feel free to buy a sink that produces a pleasant ringing sound. A dull sound is a sign of defects.

Bedside tables and cabinets. When choosing bedside tables and cabinets, be guided by the size of the room, the number of residents and tastes. If you have more than enough space, buy a large set that can accommodate a hair dryer, curling iron, shampoos and other things. If space is a problem, pay attention to a set of a cabinet and several hanging drawers.

Shelves and niches. It is useful to equip the bathroom with niches and shelves of open or closed type. They will help with storing bath utensils. Be sure to provide space for clothes and bath towels. A hanger or a set of hooks will help solve the problem.

I hope that the day of knowledge was not in vain, and you learned a lot of useful information.

Sooner or later, any person is faced with toilet repair in one way or another. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do it yourself. In this article we will analyze in detail what work is ahead and in what sequence it is best to carry it out.

Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and capabilities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about decent toilet repairs with our own hands on a minimal budget. This is the foundation of the further story.

Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:

Complete cleaning of the premises;
Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
Preparation of surfaces for finishing work;
Finish:
Paul;
Sten;
Ceiling.
Installation of plumbing.

Point zero should be set to “Design development and procurement of materials.” But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantages of certain materials. For objectivity, we took the cost of all finishing elements from YandexMarket.

Cleaning the premises

Complete renovation, declares absolute cleaning of the room. There should be nothing left in it except the pipes of the common riser.

The sequence must also be observed. First, they knock off the tiles from the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a hammer drill in the “chisel” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They go along bare walls with a drill with a brush attachment.

Explanation: it is quite possible to lay new tiles over old flooring. But in this case, it will subtract 3-5 cm from the height of the room.

Only after this the whitewash is washed off from the ceiling. At the same time, wash away dust from the walls and floor.

The plumbing is dismantled last. To do this, turn off the water supply to the toilet tank, unscrew the fastener and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then you will have to break it out, since the drain has been sealed cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleared of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.

Before finishing work, put a plastic bag over the hole and tie it with a rope.

Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking cutting and fitting of tiles. In addition, the toilet can be easily replaced later.

Replacement of communications and wiring

Replacing a water riser yourself is never done in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But the more important factor is time and guarantees.

Replacing riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.

The quality of the work performed has a deeper implication. If the riser is replaced by specialists from the housing office, upon an official request, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for repairs to flooded apartments.

But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and quality material– polypropylene pipes fiberglass reinforced. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.

You can do the wiring around the apartment yourself. Most best material for this purpose - corrugated stainless steel. The price is more expensive than a metal-plastic pipe or polypropylene pipes, but then you get:

Savings on corners;
Aesthetic appearance;
Virtually unlimited service life;
Extremely easy installation.

The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition durable service is the use of brass fittings.

Electrical wiring will require modernization if you want to install several lamps in a miniature toilet. And this happens extremely rarely.

Very a good decision There will be installation of a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, you don’t have to touch the wiring.

Preparing surfaces for finishing

As a result of this point, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do is with the floor. For leveling you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mixture will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and costing 400 rubles.

The floors are first primed. We recommend immediately priming the walls and ceiling.. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. To avoid making too thick a layer, spread it out a little with a spatula. The complete hardening process takes 24 hours.

Leveling the walls in the toilet is a relative task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.

For putty you need:

Working spatula 30 cm long;
Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
Drill with attachment and container.

The setting time for cement-based putty is ≈ 90-120 minutes. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of solution to the long spatula. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from bottom to top. Consistently apply new portions of the mixture.

By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can achieve different effects. With an acute angle, cracks and depressions are filled, with an angle close to straight, the applied composition is leveled.

Excess material spreading to the edges of the tool is collected with a short spatula and applied again to a long spatula.

Don’t try to achieve perfection in one pass smooth surface. After treating all the walls and waiting 3-4 hours, you can go over the problem areas again.

Please pay attention Special attention corners. Sagging and rounding are not allowed on them. It is not necessary to achieve geometric accuracy in all corners; they will be covered with finishing materials, but excess in them should be removed.

After a day, the walls can be sanded to obtain a high-quality coating for further work.

The final chord of this stage is priming the prepared walls and floor.

There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so other than priming, no preparation is required.

Finishing work

Floors

The specifics of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tiles are suitable for the toilet.

Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:

High price;
A very complex work process.

If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option left - tiles.

Considering that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, laying tiles in the toilet with your own hands is an extremely easy process. Choosing tiles is a very sensitive issue. We have no right to advise on color and design, but we will help you figure it out with sizes.

The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of work, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that the smaller the number of elements in the mosaic, the easier the work is. And for the price, this choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 tiles measuring 40x40 will cost 1,304 rubles. Enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.

There is another option for lightly finishing the floor in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to a backing. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not manifest itself in the best way.

The fact is that small elements of the floor covering visually reduce the size of the toilet.

Tile adhesive "Unis 2000" in a 5-kilogram package will help you cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.

You will also need:

Notched trowel;
Crosses;
Laser level;
Square.

The thickness of the crosses is no more than 1-2 mm. In a small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.

The method of laying tiles is direct. The toilet is too small a room to put a beautiful pattern in it.

Work progress:

Dissolve the glue according to the instructions on the package. If you followed our advice and chose a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), adjust the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to place it on a horizontal sewer pipe. Everyone has laser levels The head is self-leveling, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.

The floors are being swept. Apply the finished adhesive onto the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the glue must be spread over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tiles. The thickness of the adhesive composition should not exceed the thickness of the tile! Place the tile in place. It is better to start gluing from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.

By successively applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, straighten the tiles.

Glue the second tile in the same way, level it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.

With proper planning, you will only need to trim the tiles once to get around the riser pipes. To do this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disk must be specialized, without radial cuts.

Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, this will be a corner sector. Set aside the resulting dimensions on the front surface of the tile.

Tip: stick masking tape on the tile, it’s easier to mark on it.

Place the tiles on a flat surface and secure. When working with an angle grinder, be sure to use glasses!

You need to cut through, so there should be a soft material (wooden block or two pieces of gypsum board).

The cut edge can be sanded.

If there are gaps of 1-2 cm, then distribute them evenly so that they fall between the tiles and the wall. Subsequently, they will be covered with wall finishing materials.

According to the diagram outlined, the entire floor tiles. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the joints. Optimal material for filling gaps between tiles – silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, and after drying it produces an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.

To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.

Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the silicone that comes out is minimal. Insert the container of sealant into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outward is removed with a slightly moistened cloth. The gaps must be filled flush.

The silicone should cure within 3-5 hours. Then you should lay cardboard on the floor, and you can start finishing the walls.

Walls

Wall decoration is possible in two materials: ceramic tile or wall panels. In principle, we do not consider painting and whitewashing, and other materials have low moisture resistance.

Tiles are a traditional option for the toilet. It looks presentable and lasts a very long time. But there are points on which she is inferior plastic panels. In particular, PVC panels:

Cheaper;
Glue easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
Models with 3D effect look gorgeous;
You can easily change and “refresh” the appearance;

There is one more nuance that can influence your choice. In the toilet, you will need to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, you can cover this unsightly need without much difficulty and preliminary preparation.

In addition to everything, you can improve the appearance if you choose wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All finishing will take on the appearance of a finished composition.

For fixation wall panels Liquid nails are required. We recommend using “Moment Installation”.

To work you will need:

Bathroom wall panels;
Liquid nails with a gun;
Hacksaw for metal;
Construction knife;
Tape measure and marker.

The panels begin to be glued from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting to width. Measure the height and mark the required size on the panel. When sawing off excess metal with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend or break at the very end of the cut.

The glue is applied in continuous strips along the entire length, the diameter of the emerging roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of glue. Immediately place the panel in place and move it slightly from side to side to spread the glue. But immediately remove this panel and give it a shutter speed of 3-4 minutes. This is required to adhesive composition interacted with oxygen in the air.

After curing, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move it a little

All panels are fixed in a similar way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.

Explanation: Between the front and back sides of each plank there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the back side of the panel along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and the rounded areas can be pasted over.

In the place where the riser is located, on back side the panels cut off the back sheet along with the stiffening ribs. Additionally, the lower part where the sewer pipe exits is trimmed. To make a neat outlet for water pipes, they are unscrewed from the shut-off valve on the riser. And a hole is made on the panel according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!

A horizontal sewer pipe can be covered with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting the toilet.

This option for decorating the walls in the toilet will avoid the use end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be covered with a door casing.

Instead of a plinth, glue a strip. By appearance, this is the same baseboard for a bathtub, only narrow.

Ceiling

TO decorative finishing ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, you should proceed as the final chord that will complete the entire composition. If there are large dark tiles on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.

There are two options, this slatted ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In terms of appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But the slatted ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from the height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude longer.

With ceiling PVC panels the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.

Considering that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.

Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olympia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the lamellas is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are needed for the ceiling in the toilet.

They are glued to the same “Moment Montage”. The lamellas are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.

Around the box covering the riser, the panels are cut with a construction knife.

Plumbing installation

Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:

Installation of a toilet with a tank;
Connection to the system.

The option with a wall-hung toilet is not even accepted for consideration. Its miniature size is only marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the fastening system and tank wall hung toilet, will require you to allocate at least 20 cm from behind. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will actually become 0.8 x 1 m.

Therefore, we will install a regular toilet. To attach it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tiles. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the hammer drill to the “drilling” mode.

Having passed the tiles, switch the hammer drill to the “chipping” mode and place the drill.

Dowels are driven into the holes using a mallet and the toilet is secured through plastic washers.

TIP: Apply silicone caulk to the base of the toilet. After pressing it to the floor, excess silicone will be squeezed out and must be removed immediately. But such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet itself during wet cleaning.

For connection drain hole toilet with an entrance to the sewer pipe, use a corrugated adapter.

The water supply hoses to the tank, in modern models, have a rubber seal and do not require rewinding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, allowing you to do without an adjustable wrench.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 6 minutes

Repairing a toilet in an apartment is not the best simple task, despite the seemingly small amount of work. The lion's share of difficulties is associated precisely with the size of the room and with the installation of plumbing and pipes in the toilet: risers, wiring, sewerage. Of course, it is better to entrust specific work to professionals, but cosmetic repairs can be easily handled without outside help. Let's find out how to do it, saving time, nerves and money, and find out where it should start.

What is the order of work in the toilet?

Even a small toilet renovation panel house will require implementation large quantity various tasks. This small room contains many different communications: pipelines, sewerage, heating, lighting. Often the toilet itself needs to be replaced. In some cases, a defective certificate may be required major renovation.

First you need to decide on the sequence of repairs in the toilet. Renovation in an old house or in a new building begins with the development of design and calculations necessary materials. It is advisable to perform further stages of repair in the following order:

removing old coatings from ceilings and walls;
replacement of heating risers and sewer pipes;
replacement of wiring (if necessary);
cleaning the premises;
preparing the floor, pouring the screed, laying the floor covering;
installation of wall coverings (wallpaper, tiles, panels);
if necessary, assembly of a plumbing cabinet;
toilet installation;
installation of a new door.

Even the most modest toilet renovation takes a long time and requires a significant investment, since plumbing is expensive. Most inexpensive option repairs in the toilet - simple cosmetic ones, when they do not change the drain or wiring, but only refresh the ceiling and walls.

Toilet design

Quite often, the toilet is a tiny room in which, as they say, it’s impossible to turn around. In houses of the 137 series, the toilet, which in addition to the riser and pipes also houses a ventilation shaft, is so small that there is practically no space between the toilet and the door free place. In such a small space, design development before starting renovation requires a special approach. When thinking through it is necessary to take into account some important nuances.

The central object of the toilet is the toilet. First of all, it should be comfortable. Snow-white sanitaryware looks best, although other colors can be chosen. The main thing is that it fits the overall interior.

A great option for a small room is a built-in toilet. This practical solution: tank and sewer pipes cleaned up plumbing cabinet, dirt, dust, and germs do not accumulate on them. Cleaning becomes much easier. In addition, the toilet on the installation moves several centimeters deeper into the toilet, which makes staying in a small room more comfortable.
Most often, heating risers and water meters are installed in the toilet. It is also recommended to sew them into a beautiful plumbing cabinet. The interior will only benefit from this. A folding hatch should be provided opposite the meters and taps so that you can turn off the water or check the readings at any time.

If you are tired of standard solutions, you can search for ideas on the Internet and create unusual interior toilet in a new building. The following photo demonstrates an interesting option.

You can decorate the toilet with wallpaper or paint the walls in an unusual way However, aggressive tones or excessive variegation should be avoided.

A black and white toilet will look stylish and unusual, especially if you choose black high-tech plumbing fixtures.

Materials for toilet renovation

The load on the toilet room is quite specific. Happens here often high humidity, pollution is common and unpleasant odors. Therefore, the toilet should use finishing materials that do not absorb odors and dirt and are resistant to high level humidity, easy to clean.

To repair and level the floor surface in the toilet, it would be advisable to use self-leveling floors. The mixture must be prepared on a cement base. For finishing, it is advisable to use porcelain stoneware tiles.

To level the walls of a toilet in a new building, you can use plasterboard, but only its moisture-resistant modification ( hallmark – green color sheets). Recommended for frame aluminum profiles, because wood quickly rots from dampness and is affected by fungus. You can glue tiles, paint or wallpaper onto drywall.

The ceiling surface can be painted or installed suspended ceiling made of PVC film, which will help prevent damage to the finish in the event of leakage from neighbors above.

Doors to the bathroom can be either standard or smaller, as in houses of the 137 series. And this creates many problems for owners, since finding such a canvas can be problematic. Here we can give only one recommendation - the door should be solid.

We are starting renovations

When all questions regarding materials have been resolved and a design has been chosen, you can begin the repair process. Where to start renovating a toilet? From the dismantling of old materials: removing the toilet, removing coverings, wallpaper, removing garbage, etc.

Repairing a toilet in a new building is easier to do: there is no need to change pipes or dismantle the old finish.

The next stage of repair is the installation of a new sewer system. Now they use plastic. It is much lighter and cheaper, but is not inferior in strength to traditional materials. When purchasing any plumbing kits, you need to check that all rubber gaskets are in place. If there are not enough of them, problems may arise with sealing the connections.

Then they change the pipes and wiring. Risers are now also made of polypropylene. They must be firmly attached to the wall, especially the hot water pipe, because under the influence high temperatures they may become deformed. With the economical option, the pipes are not touched, since this significantly increases the cost of repairs. If the toilet is wall-hung, the installation is installed at this stage of the repair.

Doing electrical wiring in a toilet in a new building, you need to remember that the wires must be hidden in a special corrugation, and distribution boxes and wire connections must be taken outside this room.

Another point is ventilation. Often it becomes clogged, so it is necessary to clean it and close it with a special grill.

For efficient work For ventilation, it is advisable to equip forced exhaust.

The renovation is completed by installing the toilet and assembling the plumbing cabinet.

Repair cost

Knowing how to repair a toilet and what work lies ahead of you, you just have to decide whether you can do everything yourself or whether it’s better to entrust some of the work to professional craftsmen.

The price of a turnkey cosmetic renovation of a toilet in Moscow ranges from 14–25 thousand rubles; in St. Petersburg such repairs will cost 10–22 thousand rubles. The price for a major overhaul with replacement of pipes starts from 35 thousand rubles.

You can save money by doing some of the work yourself, for example, dismantling the old coating, making a screed, etc. If you have no experience in performing any operations, you can watch training videos or look through photos in search of inspiration.