Diagram of the size of greenhouses made of profile pipes. Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of profile pipes

Avid summer residents often strive to install a reliable greenhouse or hotbed on their site so that they can grow seedlings or get a harvest much earlier. In this article we will talk about how to make a greenhouse from corrugated pipe with your own hands so that it turns out reliable and durable.

Note that the choice in favor of steel profiled pipes is dictated primarily by their resistance to deformation and destruction, as well as their ability to withstand significant loads. Although the installation of such products itself requires some effort.

The initial stage of creating a greenhouse from profile pipes - drawing and selection of material

Decide on exact quantity necessary materials can be done as accurately as possible if you first estimate the dimensions of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe in the drawings, and also take into account the parameters of the manufactured products themselves.

Profiles with a cross section of 40×20 mm or 40×40 mm are optimal for creating a supporting structure. They are quite durable and have a wall thickness of 2 mm or more. At the same time, for horizontal screeds, you can use products with thinner walls, about 1-1.5 mm - this will be enough.

The design of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe may include several types of configurations:

a greenhouse attached to the main house, the roof of which has an asymmetrical oval or pitched shape;
a separate building with a gable roof;
greenhouse with an arched configuration.

When calculating the number of pipes to be purchased, it is worth taking into account the measured length of pipe products available for sale - it is 6.05 meters.

Given this value, it is possible to make drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe with dimensions of 3, 4, 6 or 12 meters in length, as well as 2, 3, 4 or 6 meters in width. The optimal dimensions of a greenhouse in which two parallel beds are placed will be within 3 × 3-6 meters, and if there are three beds, then 4-6 × 3-12 meters. However, most often the drawing of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe is drawn up based on dimensions of 3x6 meters - this is the most convenient ratio.

But as for the height of the building, it is necessary to take into account the individual parameters of the owner. As a rule, the ceiling should be located 30-40 cm higher than a person’s height. That is, the height of the greenhouse can vary between 1.9-2.5 meters.

Another important factor in calculating the height of the greenhouse is finishing material for plating. In the case of ordinary film, this is not of fundamental importance, but if you purchase polycarbonate, it is better if its size is sufficient to cover the height without trimming or extensions.

Standard sheet length cellular polycarbonate is 6 m, and if you use the formula for circumference (L=π×D), you can calculate whether it is enough for cladding arched greenhouse.

So, for example, let’s take the planned height of the building to be 2 meters and substitute it into the formula:

L=3.14×4=12.56 meters.

Then half the length will be 12.56/2 = 6.28 meters - this is not enough to completely cover the surface of the greenhouse, and an additional segment of 28 cm will be required. Therefore, it is better to provide for the height of the greenhouse in the drawing of an arched greenhouse from a profile pipe within 1. 9 meters.

Preliminary preparation for work

Before you start making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, you should pay attention to some additional conditions your site. In particular, soil type may matter. It is preferable to install the greenhouse on dry soil, where excess moisture does not accumulate, which can affect bearing structures. It is optimal to install a greenhouse on sandy soils, as opposed to clay soils that are prone to waterlogging.

The location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points also matters. So, it is best that the long side faces south, so that as much as possible penetrates into the greenhouse. sun rays, which will not be reflected from polycarbonate sheets.

To prevent heat from leaving the greenhouse too quickly and to make it convenient to move around in it, the entrance door is usually located at the end. According to standards, the door width should be no narrower than 70-80 cm, but its height directly depends on the size of the greenhouse itself.

If you are planning to build a more or less permanent greenhouse from corrugated pipe, then you can additionally build a small corridor or vestibule in it. You can store tools and other small items in it. In addition, such a space will allow you to retain heat when opening the door to the greenhouse itself.

The frame for constructing a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands must be placed on a strip or columnar foundation, the type of which will depend on the type of soil. In any case, you need to remove debris from the area under the foundation and remove the top layer of soil.

Sequence of work when constructing a greenhouse from a profile

In general, the entire process of constructing a greenhouse from profile pipes includes four main stages:

Marking.
Pouring the foundation.
Assembling the frame structure.
Polycarbonate sheathing.

First, they mark out a place for the future greenhouse from a profile pipe and drive wooden pegs around its perimeter, onto which a rope is pulled.

Next, they begin to build the foundation. Frame construction made from a profile pipe, which will be transferred to the supports, is quite strong and not prone to deformation. Therefore, it is often enough for a greenhouse columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes.

The columnar foundation is poured as follows:

holes are drilled in the ground at a certain distance from each other, the diameter exceeding the size of the pipes;
in the resulting pits they are immersed, in fact, asbestos pipes;
the gaps between the pipes and the soil are filled with filler and compacted thoroughly;
poured inside the pipe cement mortar, making sure that there are no voids in it;

in the upper part of the poured pipe, a metal plate or piece of reinforcement is immersed in concrete, which will serve as a coupling for the foundation with the frame structure.

Assembling the body from profile pipes begins from the end sections of the structure. The pipe sections are connected to each other by welding, using tees, angles, and also using couplings. Welding seams are much stronger and the structure is more stable. However, if you want to make the frame collapsible, then it is better to use couplings.

At the last stage, they begin to cover the body with polycarbonate sheets. It is fixed with self-tapping screws with thermal washers so that moisture does not penetrate into the cells of the material.

Please note that when attaching polycarbonate, its cells should be located at an angle or vertically. A horizontal position will not allow moisture to drain and will deteriorate the quality of the material.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with a house, with a full gable roof, then in addition to the front door, you need to cut out windows in it. Well, small arched greenhouses can only get by with a door.

How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse using the “cold” method

Arched greenhouses made from profile pipes for summer cottages are the most stable and, at the same time, practical structures. Thanks to their streamlined shape, arch-shaped greenhouses are able to withstand strong gusts of wind, and precipitation does not accumulate on them in winter. However, to create such a structure, you must first bend the pipes (read: ""). In this case, there may be two options - turn to specialists for professional help or do the work yourself using a pipe bender. Another alternative option is to do the bending yourself using improvised means. To cope with the task as efficiently as possible, you will need a radius template.

There can be two methods of cold bending of profile pipes - with or without the use of filler. If the body is to be assembled from profiles with a thickness of up to 10 mm, then pipe bending can be done without filler. But for bending corrugated pipes with thicker walls, it is better to pour rosin or sand into them.

As an option, there is a bending method using a thick spring, the cross-section of which will allow it to be pushed into the pipe cavity. The spring properties of such a device will make it possible to bend the pipes quite well without changing the cross-section of the profile at the bend.

Thus, you can bend profile pipes in a “cold” way in two ways:

use available tools and mechanisms - bending plates and similar tools;
use a portable or manual factory pipe bender.

A fairly primitive, but nevertheless effective device for cold bending of profiles are bending plates with holes. Rods are placed in these recesses, which will serve as a stop when bending. The pipe is placed between two rods, which are installed in the slab at a distance from the deformation radius. Then they begin to bend the profile, moving from the center of the workpiece to its edges.

It is worth noting that this manual method of cold pipe deformation is quite labor-intensive, and the result will depend on the effort expended on bending.

Method of bending profile pipes with preheating

The hot bending technique looks like this:

At the first stage, wooden plugs for the pyramid-shaped pipe are made. The length of such a workpiece should be 10 times greater than the width of its base, and the area of the wide part should be at least twice as large as the pipe lumen.
When the workpiece fits the size of the pipe, small grooves are made in it on four sides, through which gases formed when the pipe is heated will escape. The second plug does not need to be processed.
Next, the treated section of the pipe is pre-fired.
Any fine filler must be sifted through a fine sieve before filling into the pipe. This way you will get rid of large particles that can be imprinted on the surface of the pipe when heated. After this, very fine sand particles are removed using a 0.7 mm sieve so that they do not sinter when heated inside the pipe.
The prepared sand is calcined at 150 ℃.
A blind plug without grooves is installed on one side of the pipe. On the other side, a funnel is placed in the corrugated pipe, through which calcined sand is poured inside in small portions.
By periodically tapping the walls, you can make sure that the sand is well compacted - the sound will be dull. As soon as the pipe is completely filled with sand, insert a second plug with gutters.
The location of the future pipe bend is marked with chalk. After this, the pipe section must be securely secured in a vice, placing it on the template. Please note that products with welded seams must be bent so that the connection point is located on the side. But bending along the weld seam is not worth it.
According to the markings, they begin to heat the metal until it turns red. When the material becomes soft enough, it is given the required shape in one smooth and precise movement.

When the workpiece has cooled, the bend is compared with the template. If the work is done perfectly, you can pull out the plugs and pour sand out of the profile.

It is desirable that all hot bending work be carried out in one step. Each subsequent heating will cause the metal to lose its strength.

In conclusion, we note that, by and large, even novice builders can cope with the construction of a greenhouse for a summer residence from profile pipes. Regardless of its design, all main work will be carried out according to general principle. The only differences may be the landscape features and the preferences of the owners, which will need to be taken into account during construction.

A greenhouse made from a profile pipe with your own hands requires welding work. The design is complex, but durable. The greenhouse frame can withstand heavy loads and resists wind well.

Pros and cons of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe

A distinctive feature of a profile steel pipe is its square, rectangular or oval cross-section. Due to this shape, bending strength increases. Square and rectangular profiles are more suitable for greenhouses. It is difficult to bend them into arches without special machine, but the frame turns out to be durable. Due to the stiffening ribs, the thickness of the metal walls is reduced. This is another plus of the material. The strength of the structure made from profile elements remains unchanged, and the total weight is reduced. Under metal carcass there is no need to create a reinforced foundation.

If you weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, the design is much cheaper than the factory equivalent. The aesthetic part does not suffer. Caracas looks neat. Due to rectangular section the joining of elements is improved. The flat walls of the profile fit tightly against each other, which simplifies the process of welding or bolting.

Advice! The profile steel pipe allows you to create collapsible greenhouse frames, where individual elements connected by bolts. If necessary, this structure can be easily disassembled and moved to another place.

The profile is produced in a standard version and with an anti-corrosion galvanized coating. The second option is best suited for greenhouses. In a damp microclimate protective layer will prevent the development of rust. This frame does not need to be painted. Only the joints will have to be processed. The galvanized layer burns out from welding, and these areas must be painted over. A stainless steel profile is less common. For a greenhouse this is perfect material, only expensive.

A significant disadvantage is the production of arcs for greenhouses from a profile pipe, if chosen for construction arched version designs. You will need to look for a workshop where there is a pipe bender or try to do it yourself, resorting to traditional methods. Light weight profile frame is positive and at the same time negative trait. If the greenhouse is large, it has a large windage area. To prevent it from being knocked over by the wind, it is necessary to arrange reliable foundation and attach the frame to it.

Selection of profile pipe

The cost of the profile is determined by the cross-section, wall thickness, steel quality, and the presence of an anti-corrosion layer. To purchase material for the entire frame, you will need to shell out an impressive amount. Here you need to carefully calculate everything. The main elements of the frame (pillars, roof, trim) are created from a reinforced profile with side wall dimensions of 40x20 or 40x40 mm. Pipes are taken with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The elements of the horizontal screed bear less load. Pipes are taken with a cross-section of 20x20 mm with a wall thickness of 1 to 1.5 mm.

The profile goes on sale in a standard length of 6 m. In order to have fewer welding joints, the dimensions of the frame are initially correctly calculated. The material is expensive. Greenhouses are assembled from a 40x20, 20x20 mm profile pipe so that less scraps remain.

Types of greenhouse structures made from profile pipes

The profile allows you to create any greenhouse frame existing form. However, due to the complexity of bending, construction of structures with even planes is most often practiced. Greenhouses in the form of a house or an extension to a building are considered popular. If creating arches is not a difficulty for the owner, then you can build an arched greenhouse.

Arched greenhouse made of profiled pipe

The advantage of a greenhouse with an arched roof is good streamlining. Precipitation does not linger on the semicircular slopes, and windage decreases. Greenhouses are often used for the cultivation of low-growing crops. Rounded roof elements steal free space and do not allow tall plants to be planted close to the walls of the greenhouse.

Gable greenhouse made of profiled pipe

A greenhouse in the shape of a house with a gable roof is considered the best option. Firstly, the profile blanks do not have to be bent. Secondly, a maximum of free space is created inside the greenhouse. You can grow plants of any height, install shelving, create tiers, and arrange vertical beds.

Lean-to greenhouse made of profiled pipe

IN general outline the structure is half of a house with a gable roof. The greenhouse is attached to the wall of the building on the south side. The roof is made with one slope. Additional benefit is to receive heat from the wall of a heated building. Plants often do not need heating. However, dampness causes the façade to disappear faster. Fungus appears on the wall.

Drawings and diagrams of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe

How many profile pipes do you need for a greenhouse?

Calculation of the amount of material begins after the development of the project. All dimensions are shown in the drawing. The length of each element of the greenhouse is summed up, a 10% reserve for unforeseen expenses is added and the finished result is obtained. When calculating material from a profile pipe for a greenhouse, do not forget that you will need to create vents and doors. Despite the high cost of the profile, it is necessary to make a reserve. During welding, a defect may occur or an additional spacer may be needed somewhere.

Construction site

Plants growing in a greenhouse must receive heat and light. Correct location greenhouse on the site increases energy efficiency. The owner incurs less heating costs and artificial lighting. A prefabricated greenhouse made from a profile pipe is installed with your own hands on an area that best meets the basic requirements:

The greenhouse is located in a place slightly blown by winds. During winter use, heat loss will be reduced.
The greenhouse body should be illuminated by the sun as much as possible during daylight hours. The air will warm up naturally, and heating costs will decrease. Sunlight benefits many plants. For shade-loving crops, shade with polycarbonate is used.
To ensure the stability of the greenhouse, choose a flat area. The best place considered to be a plain or an elevation. It is undesirable to install profile structures in lowlands due to flooding with rain and melt water.
You will need to install plumbing and electricity inside the greenhouse. The profile structure is installed closer to the location of communications.

There is a free access of at least 1 m to the greenhouse walls on all sides for maintenance.

How to build a greenhouse step by step from a profile pipe

The construction of a profile greenhouse structure involves observing the order of execution of a certain algorithm of actions. Before starting work, it wouldn’t hurt to watch the video short review construction process:

Foundation for a greenhouse from a profile pipe

The type of base is chosen at the stage when the greenhouse project is being developed in drawings from a profile pipe, and the cladding is determined. Polycarbonate is lightweight. The design does not require a reinforced foundation. If glass is chosen for cladding, the weight of the greenhouse will increase. A solid foundation will be required.

The type of foundation is selected taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the level of groundwater. Usually for greenhouses they use pile, columnar or strip base. For most regions, concrete strip is considered the best choice.

To fill the foundation, markings are applied to the area. Dig a trench 80 cm deep. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone approximately 20 cm thick. The walls of the trench are covered with roofing felt. Formwork boards are installed on the surface. Inside the trench, a reinforcing frame is installed from reinforcement, shaped like a box. Anchor pins are welded to the rods. Their threaded part should protrude in height from concrete tape. The lower trim of the profile frame will be attached to the anchors.

Concrete pouring is carried out in one day. The tape is made so that it protrudes 20 cm from the ground. The foundation is left to gain strength for a month. The surface is periodically wetted with a watering can and covered with film.

Assembling a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe

When the base gains strength, begin assembling the profile frame. The surface of the concrete tape for waterproofing is covered with roofing felt. A 40x20 mm bottom pipe is laid around the perimeter of the foundation. A frame is welded from the profile and fixed to the anchors protruding from the base.

Further construction of a greenhouse with your own hands from a profile pipe involves the installation of vertical frame frames. The end elements are installed first. On the frames, a doorway 70 cm wide and a large opening for a window 80 cm wide are formed directly from the pipe. Intermediate profile frames are spaced at 1 m intervals. The elements are welded with racks to bottom harness from profile steel pipe. The frames are welded together with horizontal jumpers made of 20x20 mm pipe. The elements will provide stability to the profile frame. The jumpers are welded flush to the frame elements to avoid protrusions.

Advice! When constructing a profile arched frame, the first lintel is attached below 10 cm from the bend of the arc. Polycarbonate will be fixed to the pipe.

Wall and roof cladding

The cladding method depends on the chosen material. Glass is expensive, fragile and heavy. The film is short-lived. A greenhouse made of polycarbonate and a profile pipe is considered popular today in terms of price and quality. Transparent sheets bend well. The sheathing material is fixed with self-tapping screws and sealing washers. Holes in polycarbonate and pipe are pre-drilled. At the joints, the sheets are connected with a special connecting profile. The ends of the polycarbonate are covered with plugs to prevent dust from entering.

Installation of doors and windows

The door leaves are welded from a 40x20 mm pipe. For vents, a profile of 20x20 mm is sufficient. The sashes are hung on the elements of the profile frame with hinges. The cladding is carried out with the same material that was used for the greenhouse.

How to bend profile pipes for an arched greenhouse

The profile has one drawback. It is difficult to bend the pipe into an arc for an arched greenhouse. Stiffening ribs prevent uniform bending. It would be nice to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse yourself using a pipe bender, but there is no point in buying an expensive machine for one day of work. It is better to order ready-made profile arches in the workshop. If this is not possible, they try to bend the pipe, resorting to folk tricks.

Using sand

The profile bending method is considered simple and effective. First, prepare the sand. It is sifted from large stones and spread out in the sun to dry. If the weather is cloudy, sand is spread in a thin layer on the tin. Under sheet metal make a fire. After calcination, the sand is allowed to cool.

Wooden plugs are cut into the ends of the profile. They should fit tightly with a hammer. One plug is installed at once. Dry sand is poured inside the pipe. The second end of the profile element is similarly closed with a plug. Place the pipe between strong supports and try to bend it with gentle pressure. The sand inside the profile will create pressure that prevents the square walls from deforming. When the profile arch is ready, the plugs are removed. Sand is poured out of the workpiece.

Using water (winter method)

The traditional method has many disadvantages. Firstly, you can only use it in winter, when it’s cold outside. severe frost. Secondly, if the technology is violated, frozen water can tear the walls of the profile during expansion.

To bend the profile blank, you will need plugs in the same way. The plugs are made so tight that they prevent water from flowing out. The plug is driven in with a hammer from one end of the profile. Water is poured inside the pipe and closed with a second plug. The profile blank is left in the cold. When the water turns to ice, they begin to bend metal element. The result is similar to sand.

When the profile arch is ready, the plugs are removed. The profile is heated over a fire until the ice is completely melted.

Grinder cuts

The bending method with notches is considered the most difficult, but guarantees a 100% positive result. The profile is clamped in a vice. Markings are applied in the form of wedges at equal distances. According to the markings, cuts are made with a grinder, but not through. Only wedges are cut. The opposite flange of the profile remains untouched. After cutting, the pipe is bent into an arc. If the radius is large, cut out several more wedges. The procedure is continued until the arch bends to the desired radius. The cut areas are welded.

Photos of greenhouses made from profile pipes

Conclusion

A greenhouse made from a profile pipe with your own hands turns out neat. In order for the structure to last longer, it is important to monitor the frame and promptly touch up rusted sections of the pipe.

A greenhouse is a practical design that allows you to have fresh vegetables or fruits from early spring to late autumn. It is located on a personal plot, not far from the house. Greenhouses are also installed in the country. If you build it in a large size, then it can not only be a source of free vitamins, but also bring additional income from the sale of vegetables or flowers. To make a greenhouse with your own hands, drawings and nuances must be thought out in advance. Optimal material there will be a profile pipe 20 x 40 mm. The designs and stages of creation are described in detail below.

Anyone who wants to weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with their own hands will need to prepare several materials. Namely:

metal profile 20 x 40 mm or close to these parameters, with a wall thickness of 1.2 mm (the number of meters depends on the future dimensions of the structure);
corner with shelf 40mm;
canopies 4 pcs;
anchors with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 120 mm;
reinforcement 10-12 mm for base reinforcement;
cement and sand;
boards for formwork;
polycarbonate sheets and thermal washers for their fastening.

You can do all the work yourself. This page contains a diagram of various designs and videos on creating greenhouses. Tools you will need: welding machine, grinder, pipe bending device, drill, adjustable wrench, shovel, hammer. The process is performed in the sequence described in this article.

Foundation

In order for the greenhouse to stand firmly and not sag under the weight of the metal, it is necessary to create solid foundation. This can be a linear foundation with a reinforced structure inside. Even at this stage, you need to decide on the size of the future greenhouse. If it is done only for the needs of the family, then the “classic” option is 3 x 4 m. In the case big family it is possible to make a structure of 3 x 6 or 3 x 8 m. Since the length of the profile pipe is standard - 6 meters, the choice of size should be in favor of an even number to facilitate division of the material and cutting. Once the dimensions have been determined and your drawing has been drawn up, you can get down to business.

A trench is dug 300 mm wide and 500 - 700 mm deep. The formwork is assembled from the boards, which will hold the foundation walls. A frame of reinforcement is laid in it, which is tied with wire into a box. Crushed stone and gravel are added to the solution of cement and sand. All this is poured in and left for ten days to compact and harden.

The lower perimeter of the greenhouse is placed on the foundation, from which the entire structure will be built. The profile pipe is connected with one tack at each corner, after which the equality of the diagonals is checked. You will need a long tape measure. When the parameters are set accurately, you can put a second tack on each corner and weld these joints “cross to cross” to avoid deformation of the structure and dimensional errors.

When the lower perimeter is ready, you need to fix it on concrete base. To do this, cut pieces of 50 mm wide from the corner, in which an 11 mm hole is drilled. The solid side of the corner is welded to the side of the metal profile so that the hole is located above the foundation. Fixation is done with an anchor bolt. The distance between fastening elements is 1300 mm.

Drawings and shape of the greenhouse

As you can see in the pictures, a do-it-yourself greenhouse made of metal profiles, the drawings of which are given on this page, has various options according to the form of execution. Depending on the type of structure chosen, the amount of material is determined.

Greenhouses can be with level 2500 mm posts and a straight roof. It's reminiscent of a garage, but with transparent walls. This design will be the easiest to install. More complex options are straight 2000 mm posts and a triangular (gable) roof. The most difficult thing will be to create an arched greenhouse. Here, the height of the racks depends on personal preference and the varieties of vegetables grown. The higher the structure, the easier it is to regulate the temperature. If it's cold, this will allow you to collect heat. When it is very hot, you can open the ventilation window and remove warm air without overcooling plants. Minimum height at the top point should be 2500 mm. The arched ceiling can start from racks of 300 mm. But there are options with racks of 1300 mm.

Installation of racks and jumpers

The walls of the greenhouse are formed by posts welded to the base. This joint should be made along the entire perimeter of the attached profile, because it will be subject to a large load in the wind. The racks are welded in the corners and every 1000 mm from the previous one.

To strengthen the metal structure, connecting elements are needed that will connect the racks along the entire height to each other. Such jumpers are made from meter-long pieces of profile. But strips of metal with a wall thickness of 1.5 - 2 mm and a width of 30 mm are also suitable. For a reliable frame, they are welded every 1000 mm parallel to the base to the top point of the roof. The strips must be welded to the outer corners of the profile. Subsequently, it will be convenient to attach polycarbonate to them.

About the roof

A flat roof is mounted as one of the sides of the greenhouse:

the main beams of the 20 x 40 mm profile are welded every 1000 mm (this can be a continuation of the line of the vertical post);
crossbars made from meter-long scraps or strips of metal are attached;
The polycarbonate is fixed on thermal washers.

In the case of a triangular roof, two identical isosceles triangles are welded, at the upper corners of which a connecting beam is laid. The stiffeners are welded to the upper perimeter of the box and this beam.

For arched roof it is necessary to make a device for bending the profile. The design consists of two rollers connected chain drive, and driven by a crank. There is a third roller on top that presses the profile due to the torsion of the screw. The process goes like this:

The end of the pipe is driven into the fixture.
The screw presses the pressure roller several turns. Since the distance between the lower rollers is about 500 mm, it will not be possible to bend too much right away.
By rotating the knob, the pipe is pulled along its entire length, taking on an arched shape.
To obtain an arch of the desired circumference, this operation is repeated several times, periodically tightening the pressure roller.

For a greenhouse 3 m wide, you will need a 4.7 m pipe, which, after being rolled in the device, will take on a perfectly semicircular shape. To prevent the arches from bending later, a screed is welded between the lower edges. This will ensure rigidity and strength. Jumpers are also placed between the arches, just like on the walls.

Doors and window

Doors are made to enter the greenhouse. They are often installed at the end in the middle or offset. For installation, you will need two racks that will act as a boat. The door frame is assembled according to the internal dimensions, maintaining gaps at the edges of 3-5 mm. It is not necessary to cook the nut in a greenhouse. Only the top lintel is attached between the posts above the door. To make the frame rigid, you will need one vertical rail and two transverse ones. The canopies are placed on the side that is convenient for operating and watering the future greenhouse.

It is advisable to make a window at the top point of the roof for ventilation and temperature regulation. Most greenhouses, if built correctly, retain heat well, so hypothermia is not a problem. But when the sun gets too hot during the day, temperatures can become dangerous for young plants. To allow hot air to escape, you need to open the window. Its dimensions are arbitrary and depend on the shape and size of the roof. A frame of 500 x 300 mm and two canopies are enough to quickly ventilate the greenhouse. If the overall height of the metal structure is large, then to conveniently open the window you need to provide a mechanism (an extension that unlocks the bolt).

Since a certain humidity is maintained in the greenhouse, the profile pipe will quickly become corroded. To prevent this, the seams must be cleaned of slag and the entire metal structure must be painted with putty or oil paint. After the coating has dried, you can proceed to the final stage - attaching the polycarbonate. It is fixed with thermal washers so that the material does not tear due to thermal expansion.

Good afternoon, dear reader! Many garden crops grow seedling method. But to obtain a rich harvest, the seedlings must be healthy, with a well-developed root system and a strong stem. Grow one in open ground I can not.

The conclusion suggests itself: I need a greenhouse made of a profile pipe at my dacha. With my own hands I will grow not only seedlings in it, but also early vegetables, other heat-loving crops. In this article I will describe in detail the entire construction process.

You can create it yourself from profiled metal, but I want to highlight several basic forms of frame greenhouses.

Arched

In greenhouses of this type, the lower parts of the wall frame elements are vertical, and the upper parts are bent into an arc, closed by an arch. These elements are connected to each other into a single structure by horizontal ties. Arched greenhouses (pictured below) are more resistant to wind loads and can be quickly assembled with your own hands. They let in a lot of light inner space, therefore more suitable for growing light-loving crops.

Lancet

The cross-section of a lancet greenhouse has the shape of a slightly curved arch, elongated in height and pointed at the end. A correctly calculated structure of this type is resistant to deformation like a classic arched greenhouse, but due to the elongated shape of the upper part it better resists snow loads. Snowdrifts do not accumulate on the ridge: the snow quickly rolls down under its own weight.

Pyramidal

Pyramid greenhouse - compact, unusual look greenhouse with a lot of advantages. It is a structure whose walls are triangular in shape, inclined inward at a slight angle and converge at the top at one point.

The pyramid greenhouse is very stable. It will withstand strong gusts of wind and snowfall. Snow simply will not stay on its surfaces.

Due to the inclined position of the edges, there is a special system in the greenhouse natural light. The sun's rays are almost not reflected from their surface in the morning and evening, but penetrate inside. During the midday heat, on the contrary, they reflect their direct hit, protecting plants from overheating.

Which type is better to choose

For year-round use, it is better to build an arched greenhouse with your own hands. Thanks to its streamlined shape, natural precipitation does not accumulate on its surface. It is resistant to gusts of wind, well lit, and has fewer connections. In addition, this configuration allows for better heat retention to additionally install doors and vents for ventilation.

A gable greenhouse with a house is more convenient for use in spring-summer period. It provides enough light, but in winter its roof needs to be cleared of snow.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages homemade greenhouse from the profile pipe are obvious:

They are able to withstand high mechanical loads.
Well lit, transmit enough light to grow a variety of crops.
Durable. The service life of such a greenhouse is at least 30 years.
Fire resistant.
Mobile. They can be moved, quickly disassembled with your own hands and reassembled, reduced or added to the number of sections.
Metallic profile - available material. It can be purchased at many hardware stores.
It is easier to attach communication elements from inside the building to a profile pipe, for example, systems automatic watering, additional heating and lighting.

But such designs also have disadvantages:

High cost of profile rental.
The weight of the frame is quite large, which requires the construction of a solid foundation.
Poor flexibility.

What is stronger: profile or pipe

For a profile pipe, the load is distributed evenly over four faces. This provides it with greater resistance to torsion, tension, and lateral loads.

Which pipes are suitable and how many are needed?

Profile pipes are produced with protective coating made of polymer paint or zinc. Painted ones are cheaper, but over time the paint may peel off and the steel profile will begin to rust. Galvanized profile pipes are more resistant to corrosion and temperature changes; they are more suitable for building a greenhouse with your own hands, inside which a high humidity regime is initially expected.

The lower frame and frame arches of a small homemade greenhouse measuring 6 by 3 m can be welded from a 20x40 mm profile pipe, the lintels from square profile cross section 20×20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5–3 mm.

How many meters of professional pipe are needed for a 6-meter greenhouse?

When calculating the amount of profile for the construction of an arched greenhouse, you need to take into account that the arches are installed in increments of 1 meter. Thus, you will need:

For the base of the frame: 3+3+6+6 =18 m.
Vertical parts of the walls (0.75 m) taking into account the depth (0.25 m) into the foundation structure: (0.75+0.25) * 14 pcs. = 14 m.
Arc-shaped wall elements. The circumference is determined by the formula c = 2πr. The radius of the circle is equal to the difference between the height of the greenhouse (2.1 m) and the straight section of the walls (0.75 m). The length of the arc-shaped elements from the profile pipe will be half the circumference. The total number of profiles for the manufacture of all arcs will be: (2.1-0.75) * 3.14 * 7 pcs. = 29.67 m.
Horizontal guides: 6*4 pcs. + 2.8*2 pcs. = 29.6 m.
Spacers: 1.5*4 pcs. = 6 m.
Doors at two ends: (0.95*2+2*2)*2*2 = 23.6 m.

In total, to assemble the frame with your own hands, the total length of the rolled profile is 18+14+29.67+29.6+6+23.6 = 120.87 m. Considering that the length of the rolled product is 6.05 m, you should buy at least 20 whips.

Instructions on how to build a greenhouse from corrugated pipe with your own hands

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, then calculate its cost in advance and specify the types of work. This way you will be sure that you have enough finances and skills to complete the project.

Choosing a site for construction, marking the territory

The criteria for choosing a location for a greenhouse made from corrugated pipe should be the following factors:

Geological composition of the soil. The design of the foundation depends on it. It is good if it is sandy soil in a dry place on a hill. The clay composition of the soil in the lowlands usually accumulates excess moisture, which significantly accelerates corrosion processes in the load-bearing elements of the profile pipe frame. Excess moisture in the soil also negatively affects plant roots: they can rot.
Features of the relief. It is advisable to choose an area with a flat surface. On a flat area it is easier to ensure the stability of the structure and uniform distribution of light inside.
Illumination. One of the long sides of the profile pipe greenhouse should be turned to the south. This arrangement allows for greater penetration of sunlight into the building. This may be a remote place where the greenhouse will not be shadowed by trees, a residential building or outbuildings throughout the day, and if it happens, then only in the first half of the day.

Drawings, diagrams with dimensions

Do-it-yourself construction of even a small-sized greenhouse from a profile pipe must begin with design. The diagram will help you calculate more accurately required amount material.

In this case, special attention should be paid to drawing up a drawing of the end part of the greenhouse. It contains Entrance door, it is desirable that its width is sufficient to accommodate a standard garden cart. In the example, I presented a design project for an arched greenhouse made of profile pipes.

End drawing:

Required tools and materials

To build a greenhouse from profile pipes with your own hands, you will need a set of equipment:

measuring tools: tape measure, square, building level, marker;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
screwdriver;
clamps;
shovel;
paint brush.

To assemble the frame with your own hands, you need to prepare:

A profile pipe with a cross-section of 20×40 mm for the manufacture of a support frame and arches.
Profile pipe with a cross section of 20×20 mm for horizontal connections.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Door hinges and latch handle.
Primer and paint for exterior use.

You can use polyethylene film, glass or polycarbonate as a covering material. To build a foundation with your own hands you need crushed stone, sand, concrete, reinforcement, roofing felt, bitumen.

How to bend profile pipes for a greenhouse

To bend the profile pipes that make up the greenhouse frame with your own hands, you can use different methods:

With preheating. For pipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm. To avoid profile deformation, the pipe cavity is filled with sand. To heat the pipe bend, use a blowtorch or gas torch.
Cold bending. Used for bending thin profile pipes.

Regardless of the bending method you choose, you will also need a radius template and one of the following tools or fixtures:

Pipe bender To bend profile pipes of small cross-section size with your own hands, you can use a mechanical manual pipe bender. This is a design of rollers arranged in the shape of an isosceles triangle. The workpiece is placed between the rollers and secured with a clamping screw. Bending requires a hydraulic or electromechanical unit that does not require excessive muscular effort.
A thick spring. It must be of such a diameter that it can freely enter the cavity of the profile pipe.
Metal or concrete bending plate. The plate has special holes into which bolts with attachments are inserted to adjust the bending radius. The bolts serve as stops for bending the profile pipe with your own hands.

You can also use a grinder. With its help, you need to make several cuts on 2/3 of the pipe section on the future arc. The cuts should be at the same distance and equal in depth. The profile pipe is bent along them, and then the cuts are welded.

Step-by-step construction technology

For those who have decided to build a small greenhouse from a profile pipe on their own site with their own hands, I offer step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. I called it “Site Preparation and Structure Marking”. Clear the selected area of debris and stones, uproot the stumps and level it. The site must be strictly horizontal or with a slight difference, but no more than 10 cm. You can do the markings yourself using wooden pegs and rope.

Don't forget to check if the diagonals are the same size.

Pegs need to be driven into the ground at the corners of the structure, a rope must be pulled between them, thus marking the perimeter of the greenhouse. Then you need to remove a layer of turf from the marked area, dig it up, carefully breaking up the clods, and level the surface with a rake.

Step 2. At this stage we will build with our own hands supporting structure. For a greenhouse made from a profile pipe, the best option would be a reinforced concrete strip foundation:

Dig a trench around the perimeter of the building, 40-50 cm deep, 30 cm wide, and compact its bottom.
Fill the bottom with crushed stone to a height of 10 cm, and on top 10 cm with sand, pouring water and layer-by-layer compaction.
Lay a layer of roofing material or film on top of the sand cushion. If this is not done, the sand will draw water from the fresh concrete and prevent it from gaining the required strength.
Assemble the formwork. It should protrude 15–20 cm above ground level.
Tie the reinforcement cage into the formwork.
Pour concrete M150 or M200 into the formwork. In the places where the arcs are attached to the concrete, before it hardens, insert embedded reinforcement or steel profile 40x40 mm.
After about a week, when the concrete has gained its initial strength, cover the top of the foundation along the perimeter with waterproofing material. Side surfaces coat with hot bitumen.
Fill the trench with soil.

It will take 28 days for the concrete to dry completely, after which you can attach the arches with your own hands.

Step 3. The next step is to install the frame:

Make arches: bend the arches, weld vertical sections to their ends. Mount the door frame on the end arches.
Exhibit with your own hands support frame from a profile pipe, weld it to the mortgages in the foundation.
Attach the end arch to the frame first, checking the verticality with a plumb line. For fastening I use a welded or bolted type of connection.
Then sequentially put the remaining arches in place, connecting them together with strapping elements, starting from the top crossbar.
The last to be mounted diagonally are two end jumpers. bottom corner door connects to top bar side strap. This will strengthen the load-bearing capacity of the structure.

Now you can weld the hinges and hang the door, install a latch handle on it.

Step 4. After installing the greenhouse frame, it is sheathed with polycarbonate or polyethylene. First, cover the end arches with polycarbonate with your own hands, cutting out doors and vents, and then the rest of the structure.

The sheets are overlapped so that the joints rest on the profile.

Please note that the polycarbonate sheet must be:

Installed towards the sun with a protective coating against ultraviolet exposure.
Curved in a direction perpendicular to the channels. This technique will avoid plastic creases.
Placed in such a way that the hollow channels in its structure are in a vertical position. This is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the pores of the panels and mold does not occur.

To attach polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame with your own hands, use self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket. The hole in the casing is drilled larger than the diameter of the fastening element itself, thus leaving a gap that compensates for the thermal expansion of the polycarbonate. The ends of the sheets should be sealed with sealing, perforated tape, and special end caps should be installed at the edges. Upon completion of work, the protective film must be removed from the polycarbonate.

How to properly sheathe a greenhouse from a profile pipe plastic film, you can watch the video:

Possible errors during construction and ways to correct them

Basic errors occur. Therefore, it is better to buy ready-made arches and mount the rest of the frame with your own hands.

Incorrect installation of polycarbonate, due to which the transparency of the material is lost and condensation accumulates on its inner walls. Such a sheet must be removed from the frame made of a profile pipe, the cells must be blown compressed air or wash off dirt with soapy water. After it dries, install it in place, gluing the ends with sealing tape.

Correctly drawn up drawings of greenhouses made of profile pipes with dimensions are the key to long-term operation of a structure of this kind. Despite the apparent complexity, even a novice gardener can cope with the development of the project. Here it is important to emphasize that the direct assembly of greenhouses from a profile pipe based on a technically correct drawing takes no more than 2-3 hours.

The level of detail in the drawing is the most difficult moment in all respects in the work. If some say that technology requires taking into account all objects of the material world present at the site, others take into account only the welded greenhouse itself. The truth, as often happens, is in the middle.

A rational approach to the matter will help you correctly make a greenhouse from a profile pipe.

You can rely on the following practical tips:

The position of all sources of shadow is taken into account, for example, a fence, vegetation, other houses and outbuildings;
The type of selected building materials, otherwise the difference in technical parameters will not allow the production of the seedling house to be completed;
The presence of a pipeline and other types of communication structures in the immediate vicinity of the greenhouse must be recorded in the project.

A technically competent drawing involves taking into account everything that surrounds the greenhouse. In this case, attention is focused only on what directly interacts with the greenhouse.

We build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with our own hands on pegs

First, the surface where the greenhouse will be installed is leveled. After this, the pegs are placed along the entire perimeter with maximum precision. The interval between them is from 25 to 30 cm. Based on the indicated figures, it is easy to purchase the required quantity.

Once the perimeter of the greenhouse is marked, all pegs are driven into the ground to a depth of 20-25 cm. It is necessary to ensure the strength of the resulting structure, otherwise the base arcs will quickly lose strength.

Subsequently, the base is assembled based on the drawing made.

The procedure is as follows:

Tees are mounted in such a way that the pipe passes freely through them;
Self-tapping screws are used as the main fixing element, which are selected taking into account the dimensions of the pipe;
If you don’t want to bother with fasteners, then you can use another method - cut the pipe into smaller pieces with your own hands;
Regardless of the chosen fixation method, each tee is additionally secured assembly adhesive, otherwise the frame will not be strong enough;
Arches and all elements connecting them are installed;
Manufacturing of window and doorways in accordance with the approved drawing;
In order to eliminate the possibility of drafts, it is recommended to take a profile with a diameter of 1-1/4 for the door group.

A type of greenhouse on pegs has proven itself well in temperate climate. At the design stage, you need to indicate the position of each of them, otherwise you should not expect reliable fixation of the arches. In addition, for window and entrance group a wider (in terms of diameter) pipe profile is taken.

Tips for beginners: greenhouses made of profile pipes with boxes

In the case when the groundwater level in the area is low enough, the greenhouse can be installed on a base made of boards. At the stage of drawing up the drawing, measurements are taken of diagonals drawn from 4 points of the base.

Beginners need to remember that the soil is characterized by slight, but still mobility. To ensure that the fixed dimensions do not change during the manufacturing process, additional reinforcement should be used. It is made from pieces of old reinforcement.

In addition, it would be a good idea to pay attention to the recommendations below:

In the project, it is necessary to take into account the required distance between the arcs - the optimal indicator is in the range from 0.5 to 1 m;
Clamps from old reinforcement are driven into the ground so that they rise 25-30 cm above the surface;
Depending on whether you plan to build a 20x20 or 40x20 greenhouse from a profiled pipe, the pipes themselves are cut;
Each end of such a pipe is fixed at the base using screws;
At each end you need to install wooden frame, in which you need to make a window;
This is done on the basis of an agreed work plan.

The design of a greenhouse on a wooden base is justified when the soil on the site is good. To a greater extent, this relates to the groundwater level, which should be low. In this case, a steel frame is mounted on top of the wooden base. The key to success is the correct calculation of the distance between the arches. You can do it yourself, or give preference to an engineering calculator.

Greenhouses are very popular among gardeners. This is an opportunity to get a harvest in early spring or all year round. An overview of the main designs is given in our next article:

Wear-resistant greenhouse frame made of profile pipe: drawings in detail

You can often hear that even a correctly executed project leads to many problems. Opens a list of violations of the geometry of the structure as a result of partial or complete deformation of metal arches.

On the one hand, the gardener took into account the minimum required thickness of the pipe, but something still went wrong. On the other hand, the fault lies in the incorrect calculation made.

The emphasis is on errors associated with a not entirely correct correlation between the characteristics of the soil, the planned dimensions of the building and its weight.

The following recommendations will help reduce the number of such:

The wider the polycarbonate greenhouse, the wider the base needs to be built;
A long structure, for example, 30 m or more, requires welding the arches at a distance of at least 1.2 - 1.5 m;
The presence of two or more homemade vents automatically entails the need to use a profile pipe.

Nowadays, greenhouses made of polycarbonate are very popular among farmers and ordinary hobbyists. country life. Find out how to install an 8 m greenhouse using our material:

Most mistakes occur among gardeners at the stage of drawing up a project. First, you need to remember that the width and height of the structure directly affects the base. In this regard, it is imperative to carry out several measurements to eliminate even the slightest possibility of error.

Gardeners share their experience: how to weld a greenhouse from metal profile pipes

For many, it will be a real discovery that, regardless of the type of structure, it is taken into account when drawing up the drawing. Pipe diameter, number of supporting arch structures - 2 most important parameters, defining the minimum number of points for welding.

Recommendations developed by experienced gardeners will help you get rid of many problems during the welding process:

The strapping is always fixed on pre-mounted mortgages at the foundation level. In this case, even an inexperienced welder will not experience any difficulties.
Welding work is carried out only until the polycarbonate is applied, otherwise the coating will become unusable. Before you pick up the welding machine, you need to make sure that the frame is correctly fixed. It will not be superfluous to make sure that the thickness of each profile pipe corresponds to the parameters specified in the previously approved project.
After completing the welding work, the frame must be painted and anti-corrosion treatment carried out.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile pipe (video)

Even a minor mistake cannot be corrected after all attachment points have been welded. It is for this reason that the most attention, as was said earlier, is paid to the drawing. The document seems insignificant, although in fact it determines 90% of the durability of the building. If the gardener does not feel strong enough, you can always use an engineering calculator.