Wardrobe drawing. Homemade spacious cabinet made of chipboard

A sliding wardrobe is a very popular type of wardrobe, because it is not only spacious, but also takes up quite a bit of space. This piece of furniture is quite functional.

In this article we will tell you how to make a wardrobe with your own hands.

What is a coupe?

The concept of a coupe first appeared in France during the age of horse-drawn carriages. At that time, the city streets where the common people lived were so narrow that it was not always possible to open the cart door. This led to the appearance of carriages with sliding doors in the 17th century.

It is believed that the first carriage-coupe was invented by the French carriage master Jeanto. Whether this is actually true is unknown.

The crew of the coupe was considered to be flirtatious and frivolous, because this type of transport was usually used for secret meetings with ladies. Some linguistic experts believe that coupe comes from the word “couple,” which in French means extramarital affair.

Over time, compartment doors began to be used for train cars. As for the furniture industry, a wardrobe is any wardrobe with sliding doors.

Types of wardrobes

Sliding wardrobes can be:
Radial;
Built-in;
Hull;
Straight;
Corner.

Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe technology

Instructions on how to make a wardrobe with your own hands:

Selecting the material;
We determine the degree, nature and technology of how the filling of the cabinet will be placed;
We design the doors, choose the suspension option;
Choosing a technology for fastening shelves;
Preparing a niche;
We make the necessary measurements and drawings;
We purchase necessary materials and accessories;
We cut out the required blanks;
We assemble the wardrobe and install interior lights if necessary.

What is a wardrobe made of?

Before you start designing a cabinet, you need to decide on the material, because it directly determines the technology by which this piece of furniture will be manufactured.

Made of wood and lining

Wood is classic material for making furniture. Today it is very prestigious to have headsets from natural wood. But for a wardrobe - this is not the best choice, because due to more high humidity the wood may begin to warp.

If you still want to make a wooden cabinet, then choose straight-grained wood that does not have strands, knots or cracks. It must be treated with special compounds.

The lining can be made of plastic or MDF. There is no need to prepare it in advance. But the frame of the cabinet doors will still have to be made of wood.

From plasterboard

It is possible to make a cabinet from gypsum plasterboard, but it is quite difficult. In fact it will be building construction, not a piece of furniture.

Made from laminate, MDF, fiberboard

This optimal materials for the manufacture of this type of furniture. You can make a wardrobe out of these at home easily and simply. They have all the advantages of wood and none of its disadvantages.

There is just one caveat: it is advisable to choose fibreboard with a density higher than average.

What is the filling made of?

The filling determines how the cabinet space will be distributed, where the shelves and drawers will be located. Experts advise following the following recommendations:

Wet place on the side;
The necessary small things are at eye level;
Dry – at the top;
The most expensive thing is to distribute it into boxes.

The purpose of planning the filling is to achieve the smallest width of the shelves, which will be required when calculating the doors. The distribution of the interior space of the cabinet must be approached responsibly.

The contents of the closet significantly influences how comfortable, convenient it will be and how many years it will last.

Wardrobe doors

Doors are the most complex part of the cabinet and require the most responsible approach. It is necessary to decide how many sashes will be needed and what width, the design of the suspension and stoppers.

Note!

The fewer doors there are in a closet, the more convenient it is to use. But this increases the risk of warping and stalling. The maximum width allowed for sashes is 60-70 cm.

In addition, the doors should not be wider than the narrowest shelf, otherwise it will be impossible to get to it. It is also desirable that the sashes overlap by at least 5-7 cm.

You don’t have to buy such a necessary thing as a wardrobe; you can make it yourself. It’s easy to find drawings of a wide variety of wardrobe models on the Internet. A hand-made cabinet will be a source of pride for you.

Photo of a do-it-yourself wardrobe

Note!

As you update your wardrobe every season, you suddenly notice that there is simply nowhere to put new things. Throw away clothes good quality, but purchased last season, does not raise your hand. You can solve the problem by assembling a wardrobe with your own hands.

Convenient and roomy designs will collect the belongings of all family members, while occupying very little space in the room. Basically, this is a place that is little used and is not very convenient for placing other pieces of furniture.

Design options

If you want to install a wardrobe in an apartment or house, you need to take accurate measurements of the intended installation location of the piece of furniture and place an order with a company that manufactures cabinets. The second option would be to measure the installation site, independent design designs, ordering cutting of parts and installation of wardrobes.

You have a choice - built-in structures, corner cabinets and models of individual passage structures. Once you have made your choice, you can begin self-assembly.

Types of sliding wardrobes differ in design. If you have never assembled furniture, it is better to start with a walk-through model. This universal model can be installed in almost any room.

In many apartment projects, the hallway was made small in the shape of a rectangle. If you install an ordinary wardrobe with a swing door, there is absolutely no space left. The sliding wardrobe with a sliding door became a real salvation. Its height basically goes up to the ceiling, which gives maximum use of the area. Mirrored door panels visually increase the space.

Materials

Even the most picky buyer will be able to find the color and shade he needs on the market laminated chipboard, most often used for self-assembly of a wardrobe. Hardboard is used for the back wall. The choice of fittings in stores has virtually no limits - from the simplest to the most exquisite fancy shapes. The door leaf can be made to order from any material.

For cabinets, 16 mm thick laminated chipboard sheets are used. Sheets with a height of 2450 or 2750 mm and a width of 1830 mm are sold on the market. If you want to save money by reducing material waste, consider these dimensions when designing your closet.

Let's take a closer look at the option of assembling a wardrobe with a height of 2450 mm, a width of 2400 and a depth of 650 mm.

Except laminated chipboard sheets we will need a melamine self-adhesive edge. To assemble the cabinet design shown in the picture we will need the following parts:

Two sidewalls measuring 2433x650 mm.
The bottom measures 2367x650 mm.
The cabinet cover measures 2400x650 mm.
Large shelf - 2367x550 mm.
Seven small shelves - 778x550 mm.
Two partitions - 1917x550 mm.
Rear and front plinths - 2367x100 mm.
Side parts of the base box in the amount of 3 pcs. and size 550x100 mm.
Two edges of the base box measuring 1159x100 mm.

Hardboard back wall details:

Wide part for two compartments - 1940x1595 mm.
Narrow part for one compartment - 1940x800 mm.
Part for the top of the cabinet - 2395x410 mm.

It is better to order cutting of the parts of the future wardrobe from a cutting service, which is sure to be available at any construction supermarket. Show the specialists your cabinet design and accurate measurements. In our case, there is already detailing and it is better to show it to the sawing experts.

You can make your own wardrobe door system, but is it necessary? If you plan to assemble not one, but several cabinets, this can be beneficial. Doors for one closet will cost you much more than ordering sliding doors from a company that produces, supplies and assembles sliding facades.

You need to visit the company's office and place an order, indicating exact dimensions clear opening and number of panels. For our closet net size the facade has a height of 2317 mm and a width of 2367 mm. We need to make two sashes of the same color as the purchased chipboard and one mirror sashes. There must be a seal, stoppers, and guides. In general, the entire kit necessary for high-quality operation of the sliding facade system.

Everything related to the facade has already been ordered, but for the interior design of the cabinet you need to purchase furniture fittings. For our project you need to buy:

For fastening hardboard using self-tapping screws or nails.
In the middle compartment of the cabinet, to adjust the height of the shelves, you need shelf rests.
Confirmations dimensions 70x5 mm.
Rod holders.
Self-tapping screws measuring 16x4 mm.
Two rods for hangers measuring 775 mm.

When finished parts will be delivered, you can begin preparing them for assembly. You will need an iron for this work. Carefully attach the purchased edge to the end of the part so that the beautiful side is on top. Carefully walk over it with a heated iron. Make sure the iron is not on steam mode.

Press the heated edge well and wipe thoroughly. Carefully process the cut edges sandpaper. There is no need to rush when preparing parts. Try to achieve the highest quality of work so that your wardrobe looks neat and beautiful.

From the base parts, assemble the base of the podium for the bottom of the cabinet. The base must be present.

Assembly

To assemble the cabinet you will need:

Pencil and rectangle.
Drill and drill bits 5 and 8 mm.
Roulette.

Instructions:

To assemble parts into one complete structure, purchased confirmats are used. First, we look at our project and mark the attachment points.
When all the parts are marked, we begin the drilling process. For holes in the plane we use a drill with a diameter of 8 mm. The hole must be through. The depth of the hole at the ends is no more than 60 mm, and the diameter is 5 mm. In the places where the floor supports are installed, we make holes at several levels. When the cabinet is ready, you can safely move your shelves to the desired level.
To assemble the structure you will need the help of one person. The work will go faster and the build quality will be better. We connect all the parts of the cabinet and install it in place. We level the cabinet using a level.
Now you can begin installing the facade. We screw the upper guides along the edge of the cabinet lid. We retreat from the edge of the bottom of the cabinet a maximum of 10 mm and secure the lower guides. Before tightening the screws, insert the stoppers into the roller track.
Now the two of you can install the facade in place. One person moves the upper part of the facade into the guide, and the other sets the wheels in the desired track. A hex wrench is used to adjust the front. The adjustment screws are located at the bottom of the façade end. By raising or lowering the lower roller, we set the façade to the desired position.

When the wardrobe is loaded with things, the adjustment will need to be repeated. The work on installing the wardrobe has now been completed. Now you can proudly consider yourself a master and try to collect more complex design. We already have experience, which means the assembly will be much faster and of better quality.

Video: assembling a wardrobe

We invite you to watch a video on assembling a sliding wardrobe.

DIY wardrobes photo

It is not for nothing that the built-in wardrobe is widely popular. A sliding wardrobe not only has a large capacity, taking up a minimum of usable living space. It is capable of performing other useful functions in the interior, and making it with your own hands is not so difficult.

What does coupe mean?

In the common parts of ancient European cities, the streets were very cramped, and the sidewalks were so narrow that it was sometimes impossible to open the carriage door. Because of this, somewhere in the 17th century. coupe carriages with sliding doors appeared. Legend attributes the invention of the coupe to the French court carriage maker Jeantot. But, most likely, this is only a legend - Jeantot is famous for having invented a steering linkage, which made it possible to make sharp turns without the risk of capsizing.

The coupe carriage is a rather playful concept: parts of the city remote from comfortable neighborhoods were visited mainly for secret dates. Some linguists derive the word “coupe” from “couple” - couple, extramarital affair; marriage – “marriage”, hence the mariage known to gamblers, a queen and a king of the same suit.

Then sliding doors were suitable for railway workers for 1st class and sleeping cars. And in the furniture business, a wardrobe is considered to be any sliding doors. So the wardrobe is not necessarily built-in. And the built-in wardrobe may not be a compartment.

How is a wardrobe useful?

The main types of direct sliding wardrobes are shown in the figure. It should be immediately noted that radius sliding wardrobes, in which the front surface is curved, require high furniture professionalism, and it is better not to take on such a project yourself. Therefore, we will leave radius cabinets aside for now.

First of all, the wardrobe can be arranged in a niche, first pos. left. Making a cabinet of this type yourself is not much more difficult than making a stool. Expenses are minimal; after all, three walls, a bottom and a tire are already there. An inconvenient place turns into a useful one.

Second from left- actually the same cabinet in a niche, but the niche is the entire width of a blank wall. Thus it is possible to small apartment, practically without reducing living space. The visible volume of the room can even be expanded by finishing or decorating the doors accordingly.

Next in order– in the opening of the interior partition. A common technique when arranging open-plan apartments in modern monolithic houses. It gives convenience and allows you to save a lot on expensive construction, plastering and finishing work. By the way, those described above are also economical - the inside of the cabinet can be made of chipboard, and the doors too; After all, they most often go under decor and finishing.

Closet on the far right– it’s already framed, so the material needed for it is more expensive. These are mainly used for zoning budget one-room apartments or, conversely, expensive penthouses without interior doors.

And finally, a wardrobe, like a regular one, can be straight or angular, leaning against the wall or placed across it. The latter, as stated, are used for zoning. They have two faces, but no rear at all. They are often made double-sided, with doors both here and there, for easy access to the contents. The closet can also be turned into a wardrobe by replacing the hinged door with a sliding one.

We will take a closer look at the cabinet built into the niche; We'll touch on the rest in passing. It’s the easiest way to do it yourself, and it saves the most money. In addition, you probably won't need it special tool and sawing work requiring solid skills. Why? Let's get to that.

In general, the procedure for making a wardrobe is as follows:

Material selection;
Determining the extent, nature and method of placement of filling;
Door design, with the choice of hanging method;
Choosing a method for hanging shelves;
Niche preparation;
Measurements and drawing;
Purchase of accessories, materials and cutting of blanks;
Cabinet assembly and interior lighting installation;
Exterior finishing.

Materials

When designing a cabinet, you need to start with choosing the material. The entire manufacturing process depends on it, and depending on the choice, it can fundamentally change.

Wood and lining

Wood is a traditional and, nowadays, prestigious furniture material. But for a built-in wardrobe, wood is far from the most suitable. The humidity in the niche will certainly be higher than in the room, and the wood will warp; its decorative role in in this case minimal. If you still need a wooden cabinet, the wood for it should be straight-grained, without strands, knots, cracks, seasoned and thoroughly impregnated with hot drying oil or water-polymer emulsion.

Note: It is not at all necessary that the niche be damp. For warping of wood, the difference in humidity from the blank wall to the doors and its sharp jumps when opening are important. Because of this, it is not recommended to place wooden cabinets in niches.

Lining for a cabinet in a niche, plastic or MDF, can be used without it preliminary preparation, but another limitation appears - the door frames. They have to be made of wood, with the same conditions and requirements as indicated above, plus the care of manufacturing. You also need to glue the lining boards together, but this is not a problem: there is a tongue and groove for it, and it holds up perfectly on the PVA. In general, a lining cabinet can be recommended only for those cases when a sliding wardrobe in a niche should fit organically into the interior, as in Fig.

Drywall

Drywall - excellent, easy to work with finishing material with wide possibilities. Designers and amateur DIYers create real masterpieces from it. But As a basis for a cabinet of any design, gypsum board is completely unsuitable. It is possible to make a cabinet from plasterboard, see figure, but it is difficult. Let's figure out why.

Drywall is a rather heavy, fragile and at the same time not very durable material. It is intended exclusively for decoration and cannot be part of a supporting structure, even lightly loaded. Simply put, drywall cannot hold anything on itself; on the contrary, it must be attached to something and something must hold it. A piece of plasterboard 400x400 mm, laid flat on a frame, sags noticeably by itself within six months. According to the technical specifications, gypsum board sheets must not be stored vertically or leaned against the wall.

That is, you cannot simply cut gypsum boards and fasten them together, like, say, laminate (see next). Each shelf must be a box-shaped spatial structure, which requires a complex frame (see figure on the right). But the resulting structure (see next figure on the left), with the correct geometry and proper strength, will be far from aesthetic; You also need putty and decorative finishing.

Note: For the frame of a cabinet made of gypsum plasterboard, wood is doubly unsuitable - cavities finished design will attract moisture. Only standard C- and U profiles with standard fasteners are suitable for the frame.

Then - the doors. There is no way to make them from gypsum plasterboard - the fastenings will break simply under the weight of the sash. And the doors are exactly the essence of the wardrobe. Making cabinet shelves with doors from plasterboard is monkey work and reduces the usable volume. There are no wardrobes made of gypsum plasterboard, and a wardrobe with shelves made of gypsum plasterboard makes no sense.

In fact, a plasterboard cabinet is not furniture, but a building structure, and is made using construction technology, not furniture technology. But at the same time, it can have outstanding aesthetic merits and be the most meaningful object interior design.

Laminate, MDF, fiberboard

These are the most suitable materials . Making a cabinet from them can be quite simple when minimum costs, see about sawing. These materials have everything beneficial features wood and at the same time insensitive to gradients and fluctuations in humidity because during their manufacturing process, the microstructure of the tree is transformed into another. Just one note: fiberboard should be of medium or high density. The back wall of inexpensive cabinet cabinets is often made of low-density fiberboard, similar to thick cardboard corrugated on one side, but it will soon fail in a niche.

Filling

The internal content of the cabinet determines its internal layout. There are four rules here:

Raw - set aside separately.
The necessary and small things are before your eyes.
Dry - higher.
Valuables - in boxes.

For example, it is wrong to place the section for outerwear in the middle - dampness will flow from it to the sides. If you place it on the side, the moisture from the clothes will go where it’s easier – out. In the bedroom there are drawers or shelves for bed linen there is no need to arrange it directly above the floor - dust and moisture are concentrated approximately 40 cm above its flooring. Well, it’s clear that a wallet or smartphone shouldn’t be lying around in plain sight near the entrance.

The ultimate goal of content placement is to achieve a minimum shelf width; this will be needed to calculate the doors. The placement procedure is quite responsible; the convenience and durability of the cabinet largely depends on the successful layout.

Video: internal layout of a sliding wardrobe

Doors

Doors are the salt of a wardrobe, its most complex and important element. There are three significant points:

Number and width of sashes.
Suspension design.
Sash stoppers.

Doors

At this stage, the task is to find the number of sashes for a given width of the opening for the cabinet. The fewer the doors, the more convenient the cabinet, but the likelihood of warping and jamming is higher. The maximum permissible width is 600-700 mm; with larger doors they can be difficult to move simply because they turn out to be very heavy.

The overlap of the wardrobe doors should be within 50-70 mm. If the overlap is too small, you will either have to open and close the doors carefully, or put up with the gaps. If there is too much overlap it becomes difficult internal layout closet, especially if it is intended for a hallway or other cramped space.

At the same time, the width of the door should not exceed the width of the narrowest shelf, otherwise it may become inaccessible. We also take into account the permissible overlap and subtract 40-50 mm for the side profiles; without them, the doors will hit the wall. In general, the procedure is as follows: based on the maximum door width, we first determine the number of overlaps (one less than the doors) and check the resulting door width. It doesn’t fit into the maximum - you need to make one more door, and so on until everything fits together.

Calculation example:

Opening width – 1.75 m; the narrowest shelf is 0.45 m. A double-leaf cabinet will no longer work, it does not work both for convenience and for the maximum allowable width of the door. Then we’ll put two overlaps, this will give 100-140 mm minus to the opening, and we’ll also put 50 mm on the sidewalls. Total - 150-190 mm, 0.15-0.19 m. 1.75 remains for the doors - (0.15-0.19) = 1.6-1.56 m. Divide by 3, door width comes out to 0 .53-0.52 m. A lot, what to do? Let's estimate with 3 overlaps (4 doors). It comes out to 37-39 cm per door. But making 4 doors is more difficult and expensive (an extra set of fittings), so it makes sense to go back to the layout sketch and rearrange the inside so that the narrowest shelf is 55 cm.

Suspension

Three systems for hanging wardrobe doors are widely known: double-rail with a lower support, double-rail with a top support and monorail. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The choice is ultimately determined by the size, purpose of the cabinet and the financial capabilities of the customer/craftsman.

Bottom rail

The most common system; Its structure is shown schematically in Fig. on the right, and the design of the upper and lower rails is in Fig. left. The support rollers are the lower rollers, the upper rollers prevent the sash from falling out. This system is also the most reliable: the sashes almost never jam or touch each other.

The lower rollers are heavily loaded, so when assembling yourself, you need to follow certain rules, as illustrated in Fig. below. The rollers are made of plastic, and when purchasing you need to look to see if you can get polypropylene ones; There are a lot of cheap polyethylene ones on sale in a low-quality metal carriage. If the rollers are propylene, then you don’t have to look too closely at the metal; Both steel and aluminum are equally reliable.

Installation of the sashes is simple: insert the top into the groove of the rail, lift it all the way, insert the bottom into the groove - ready. However, the bottom support system has disadvantages:

Sensitivity to floor subsidence, and the very weight of the cabinet increases it. On the old wooden floor After a while, the doors may begin to move along the lags on their own, or even fall out.
Sensitivity to dust and dirt. The loaded surface of the rail is in the dustiest layer of air, the rollers roll and compact the dust, tubercles form in the groove of the lower rail, after a while the doors begin to rumble unpleasantly, and the rail with the rollers needs to be cleaned.

Top rail

Here the support is moved to the upper rail, see fig. on right. Concrete ceiling does not sag, and is properly finished and does not generate dust, so the doors move quietly and smoothly. Fittings of this type are not complicated or expensive, and installation differs from the previous one only in that the sash must be tilted during installation. There are three disadvantages, but two of them are significant, so suspension with a top rail is not widely used:

A lower guide is definitely needed; without it, the doors will inevitably hit and rub each other.
If there is an accidental push or pressure on the sash, its rollers come out of the groove and the sash falls inside the cabinet.
The top rail is not very rigid, so in some cases it is necessary to level the ceiling where the suspension is installed.

Monorail

The peculiarity of the system is that each carriage has 2 pairs of rollers (see next figure), and the suspension of each sash runs in a separate guide. Paired rollers, together with the guide profile, counteract door wobble to some extent. Thanks to this, with careful handling, you can do without the bottom rail and not touch the floor. But you still can’t push the doors inward, otherwise they will touch each other. Therefore, lower guide rollers with a rail for them are also sold for the monorail.

A cabinet with such a hanging is suitable primarily for the bedroom, where adults use it, and neatly. A durable and precisely adjustable suspension allows you to make wide doors, and this, in turn, allows you to place both a wardrobe and a dressing room against a blank wall. Rigid box rails make it possible in most cases to avoid leveling the ceiling. There are four main disadvantages of the monorail:

Complex and expensive fittings.
The need for a decorative overlay at the top, because There is a wide gap between the sash and the rail.
Complex installation: you must first insert carriages with rollers into the rail, then attach the rail to the ceiling, and only then hang the door. An assistant is needed to hang the leaves on the monorail.
After hanging the sashes, adjustment is required.

Stoppers

It is advisable that the cabinet doors do not roll back and forth on their own, and that they do not need to be carefully pushed into place. In a double-leaf cabinet, the problem is solved by magnetic latches on the sides. But there is nowhere to put the latches on the middle doors: the magnet doesn’t hold it casually. Therefore, the main type of wardrobe latches is mechanical.

There are mainly two types used: a recess in the support rail and a flat figured spring. If you make the cabinet yourself, then the recess is not suitable: such rails are made in the factory of a standard size for standard cabinets.

The spring clamp shown in the figure is easy to make yourself and install in place in a guide cut to size. The principle of its operation is simple: the antennae protrude slightly and the roller falls between them. And when the roller rolls onto the edge of the spring, the edges of the antenna rest against the sides of the groove, which prevents the latch from moving. To move the latch into place, you need to press both antennae at once.

But all latches for sliding wardrobes have a common drawback. When opening/closing the door, the force is already acting at odds, and the resistance of the latch increases it even more. Most breakdowns of sliding wardrobes occur precisely because of the latches.

Therefore, the best stopper for sliding wardrobe doors is a carefully aligned support rail, high-quality fittings and careful use.

Fastening the shelves

For a cabinet built into a niche, the methods for hanging shelves in cabinet furniture are poorly suited or not at all suitable - you cannot reach the sides from the outside. In the niche, they either build a rigid frame, which is difficult and expensive, or use special adjustable suspension systems like the one shown in the figure. It's easier, but also not cheap.

Meanwhile, the simplest and most cheap way fastening the shelves - on pieces of regular plinth, floor or ceiling, see fig. on right. MDF skirting boards, as you know, are available in a huge range of sizes, textures and profiles. So that the shelf fasteners are not noticeable, a piece of plinth can be taken shorter than the depth of the shelf by a third, and its end can also be cut off at an angle. In this case, the self-tapping screw farthest from the edge of the shelf must be screwed in from above through the shelf board.

Note: the upper and lower partitions in the closet can be attached to the floor and ceiling in the same way, without shortening the plinth sections for reliability. Their ends, if you take a small ceiling plinth, will be completely covered by the upper and lower guides, and together with the shelves fixed in a similar way, a very strong and rigid structure is formed. Which, in addition, will support the plank floor from sagging under the weight of the doors.

Niche

Professional furniture makers rarely and reluctantly undertake to manufacture built-in furniture on site - the work is tedious and unprofitable. Custom built-in furniture is most often the same cabinet furniture that is delivered and assembled in a niche. And here the home-made man has a great opportunity to simplify and reduce the cost of his closet, making it at the same time stronger and more spacious.

Diagonals

A necessary condition for the success of such an undertaking is that the niche opening must be rectangular, and the floor and ceiling where the doors are installed must be horizontal. You may have to spend a little time here construction work, but their volume is small and their complexity is low.

Note: for a monorail suspension, the usual horizontal level of the ceiling is sufficient. The rail is leveled with spacers. But not by adjusting the sashes after! In an inclined guide, vertically hanging sashes will slide to the side.

The floor and ceiling are checked by level, but what about rectangularity? The usual method in construction - using cords along diagonals - does not work well. The fact is that furniture precision is higher than construction precision. In finishing work, 3 mm/1 m is permissible. In furniture, if a seam 2 m long diverges in length by two millimeters, this is already noticeable to the eye. But any cord is stretchable, and it is inconvenient to wield it in a vertical opening; here without great experience and construction accuracy will not work.

There is a way to measure the diagonals of the opening, not just with furniture precision, but with machine-building precision, see fig. It's very simple: two slats with pointed ends. The angle at the apex is less than 45 degrees, and preferably 20-30, as long as the material of the slats is strong enough. The slats are fastened with rings made of “money” rubber bands, which are sold in any office supply store.

The measurement procedure is elementary simple:

We insert the device diagonally until the ends of the slats stop in the corners.
We make a mark with a pencil or a nail, as in pos. 1.
Insert it into another diagonal, push it apart/move until it stops.

By the divergence of the halves of the line, the magnitude of the inequality of the diagonals is immediately visible. Maximum accuracy - half the thickness of the mark, i.e. you can achieve 0.15-0.2 mm. And to assemble the cabinet without problems, you need up to 3 mm in an opening of 2x2.5 m.

Note: if you are preparing a place for a cabinet - a zoning partition, standing perpendicular to the wall, you will have to measure and adjust 8 diagonals - one pair in the front and back, and two pairs inside between the upper and lower opposite corners. Along the width of the cabinet, two perpendiculars are cut from the wall, and instead of the currently missing sidewall, two slats or a piece of plywood are installed.

And now, what prevents you from using the walls of a niche, its floor and ceiling as the same for a closet? You just need to keep it dust-free. And achieving this is not at all difficult or expensive:

We remove old wallpaper or paint with a gel surface-active (surfactant) remover. It is non-toxic, odorless, and the old coating can be removed with a spatula after 10-40 minutes.
Walls 2-3 times, with an interval of a day, using foam roller impregnate with PVA water-polymer emulsion.
We paint with acrylic enamel.

A niche prepared in this way does not accumulate dust for exactly 10 years, and there is no need to remove the old baseboard from the floor. Damage durable acrylic enamel not easy. And the costs are less than for a sheet of simple, non-laminated fiberboard for the back wall.

Note: Small irregularities in the walls visible to the eye can be removed with an abrasive mesh on a wooden block. It is better to do this after the first impregnation with PVA - there will be less dust.

Dimensions and drawing

With this manufacturing method, shelves and partitions, of course, will have to be cut to fit. To do this, you will have to draw a view of the cabinet from the facade, approximately as shown in the figure. Then, on the ceiling, for any type of suspension, mark a line at the location where the guide is installed. Then, from its ends, make vertical lines on the walls along plumb lines, and from this imaginary plane, measure the configuration of each shelf and partition in place. From the resulting depth of the shelves/partitions, you need to subtract the width of the support profile + 20 mm from the FRONT.

What's the point? The peculiarity of the finishing work is that the layer of plaster/primer to internal corners it turns out thicker. This happens because in the middle of the wall or at the outer corner there is greater freedom of movement with the tool. The difference in the width of the room in the middle and between the corners rarely exceeds 10 mm and is not noticeable to the eye, but for furniture even 2 mm is too much.

The configuration of the niche is, in general, a low truncated rectangular pyramid, overturned on its side. Accordingly, the shape of the shelves with partitions in plan will be close to a trapezoid. But is it possible to cut them with the required precision? Nowadays, it is quite possible and you won’t even have to install carpentry at home. And you don't need a jigsaw or circular saw. Templates and patterns - too.

Sawing and fittings

The fact is that now it is easier and cheaper to simply order sawing of blanks. In almost every town there is a furniture workshop with a computer and a specialist who knows ACAD, if only the drawings were accurate. Many furniture makers also acquire computer-controlled sawing robots - the cost of sawing by such a hard worker almost does not depend on the size and complexity of the part, and it pays off well on non-standard small items, which are always in demand.

Furniture makers buy material according to wholesale prices, therefore, counting according to total area, the cost of blanks is 20% or more less than when purchasing materials independently at retail. Many also give a discount on trimmings (robotic - almost all); After all, they won’t lie around in the trash, but will go to work.

Note: The thickness of the laminate or MDF for the cabinet is at least 16 mm. For doors on a monorail - at least 25 mm.

Also a standard service when sawing is edge cutting, i.e. sealing the ends of PVC boards to match. For a built-in wardrobe, of course, you only need to edge the front ends - it will be cheaper. PVC thickness edges can be from 0.2 to 2 mm. If you want a thick edge, in the drawing its thickness must be subtracted from the width of the board.

Assembly, light, finishing

The methods for assembling the cabinet, in fact, have already been described. It is only necessary to add about the door hanging. The suspension systems described are not the only ones on the market. Technology develops, existing ones are improved, new ones appear. But for each one of more or less decent quality, a specification must be given indicating installation dimensions and tolerances, specifications for rails, etc.

Therefore, before ordering cutting of doors, take a closer look at what is sold around you and what will suit you best. The final size of the sashes depends on the method of suspension, and the necessary clearances are specified in the specification for the suspension.

About interior lighting. Cabinets are made of flammable materials, so it is better to use low-power 12 V halogen lights for interior lighting. The cabinet lights are powered from an AC/DC adapter plugged into an outlet using double-insulated wires. Running 220 V wiring into the closet, and even permanent wiring, is completely unacceptable!

As for the decoration - mirrors, decorations, paintings and drawings - this is a matter of taste. One note: the glass mirrors on the doors are made of wood materials It is not advisable to hang them, they are too fragile and heavy. An acrylic mirror is better. Or whole mirror doors, but this is a separate conversation, and very expensive.

How much can you win?

Now let’s figure out whether a homemade cabinet in a niche is really inexpensive. And will the savings be worth the time and effort?

If you make a cabinet in a hallway niche as described above, the materials will cost 5-8 thousand rubles, including cutting costs. Well, 10,000, if, as they say, from the belly. Time – 2-3 couples of days off for home handyman average. And ordering a wardrobe for the same niche is hardly possible for less than 12,000. Most likely, from 20,000. Completion time – 2 weeks.

The savings on a wardrobe covering the entire wall of the bedroom are even greater. Here, the typical regional ratio of homemade/custom cost is 13,000/32,000. But making something like this requires more serious skills.

But making a wardrobe partition yourself is no longer so profitable: the advantages of well-established technology are also felt by the pros. And the work is difficult - to a skilled craftsman You'll have to tinker with it for about a month if you don't have to redo it yet. You will be able to profit no more than 2000 on a closet in a one-room apartment of average size.

(1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Currently, many rural residents cannot afford to purchase new furniture for your home. And city apartments do not always have a large area where it would be possible to place household items. But, despite this, people still learned to cope with these problems on their own. To do this, you can make a wooden cabinet with your own hands, without the services of specialists. Carrying out such a design at home is not particularly difficult, but in order for the furniture to have a long service life, it is necessary to become familiar with the sequence and nuances of the work in advance.

Today, the consumer market provides various wooden materials for the manufacture of household items. Therefore, before you begin to consider the question of how to make a cabinet yourself, you first need to decide what material it will be made from. According to experts, the best products for this work are:

plywood - this multilayer material has high wear resistance and strength. In addition, due to its environmental friendliness, it is absolutely harmless to human health. Plywood is produced in solid slabs, which simplifies the process of assembling household items;
particle boards - chipboard sheets are considered the most popular products for creating home furniture. This is due to the fact that they combine good quality affordable price. These products are resistant to changes in temperature and moisture, do not deform under the influence of an aggressive environment and are characterized by increased strength;
solid wooden boards- the material from the boards is cut from different types of wood. They are produced different sizes, certain types processing and quality of carpentry work. For the construction of furniture, boards from pine, birch and oak are mainly selected. These rocks are endowed with high strength and resistance to changes in temperature and humidity.

Installing household items from pine with your own hands is a labor-intensive process, since the rock is not hard enough. But if you choose this material, you can create an extravagant design in any room.

Wooden boards

So, having considered the options for materials that will be needed to make furniture, it is also worth familiarizing yourself with the tools for performing the work. The manufacture of cabinets is carried out using the following equipment:

hand saw for sawing wood;
grinding machine for polishing the surface of wood;
protractor, for measuring the angle of inclination;
ruler or meter tape for measuring dimensions;
wooden dowels, for fastening the product and filling;
metal corners for fastening furniture structures;
wood slab for making shelving;
mastic for sealing the structure.

In addition, in order to revive a household item with the desired shade, you will need to purchase water-based acrylic paint.

Nuances of work taking into account the type of structure

There are several ways to build a wooden cabinet with your own hands.

Hull

As you can see from the photo, cabinet furniture consists of several component elements, which is why it is also commonly called modular. The peculiarity of such a cabinet is that the owners can, at will, supplement it with various internal and external elements. Initially, the design of the product is developed so that all parts are combined with each other and the body. To build a building, you will need elements such as a roof, bottom, back and side walls. All these elements can be made in the form of removable straight shelves on which things will be placed. It will also be possible to additionally build a pull-out shoe cabinet.

Preparing grooves for fastening shelves

It is better to assemble the structure in a horizontal position

Vertical faceplates

Built-in

A distinctive feature of the built-in wardrobe is that it can be made from scrap materials. The fact is that it is mainly installed in niches of the room or in places where it is not possible to place standard furniture. A solid frame is not required to build the cabinet. It may be missing one or more walls, which are replaced by the floor, ceiling or walls of the building. Filling elements, as a rule, can be made in the same way as for cabinet furniture. But having constructed such a cabinet with his own hands from scrap materials, the consumer must be prepared for the fact that, unlike a cabinet product, this furniture cannot be moved to another place.

The design of each cabinet requires not only the presence of a body and internal filling, but also the front part. The main element of the façade is the door.

When making a built-in wardrobe, it is important to correctly mark the space for future shelves

Shelves must be securely attached

Special logs are required to secure doors

Door fastening

Today the consumer market offers various systems for fastening furniture doors. Each element has its own specific purpose, which depends on how the cabinet is opened.

Swing

Hinged doors are the most common type of furniture design. It consists of a wooden canvas and fastening equipment. The number of panels for a cabinet depends on the number of internal sections. As a rule, if the cabinet has one common section, two doors will be required. If the furniture consists of one narrow and one wide section, three doors will be required. The doors are fastened to the side walls of the cabinet using the following hinges:

detachable - such a mount is installed on the inside of the cabinet wall;
universal - these products can be installed regardless of the sides of the cabinet. The hinges are attached simultaneously to the body and doors of the furniture.

After the hinges are attached to the product box, the doors are hung on them.

Hole preparation

Alignment and installation of hinges

Coupe

Compartment doors are a sliding system where, when the closet is opened, one door overlaps another. Installation of such a structure requires certain knowledge and skills, so before installing sliding wardrobe from plywood with your own hands, first you need to familiarize yourself with the names of the components and their location.

The accessories set includes:

special wheels for moving doors, installed in their upper and lower parts;
upper hanging structure for guiding the canvases;
a lower guide structure along which the door wheels will move in the grooves;
cassettes for installing wooden panels;
locks and closers for easy door opening.

This design is intended for cabinet furniture with a threshold. If a built-in wardrobe is installed, it will be possible not to install lower guide elements on the floor.

Markings and drawings

Before you make a cabinet out of lining with your own hands, you first need to mark its location in the room and draw up a design drawing. Such preliminary procedures will help you quickly assemble cabinet or built-in furniture.

In the cabinet layout diagrams, it is necessary to take into account its width and height. To do this, first use a tape measure to measure the intended installation location. When carrying out measuring work, it is important to consider the distance from baseboards, window sills, pipelines and connectors for connecting electrical appliances. If you lose sight of these points, the wooden cabinet may not fit into the allotted space, or in the future there may be obstacles when opening doors or accessing the power source.

For a DIY cabinet, the drawings can be created using an automated CAD program or by hand. In the first case, the cabinet diagram is drawn up with a special computer system, in the second option, do-it-yourself cabinet drawings are made. As practice has shown, the second option is simpler, so it is chosen more often. To create a drawing by hand, you will need a sheet of paper and a pencil. Next, sketches of the cabinet are drawn on the sheet.

Description of drawing up a drawing of a wooden product:

front view of the cabinet - this sketch includes the width and height of the furniture, the height of the base, the size of the sections, the distance of the shelves from each other. When drawing up a drawing, it is important to take into account the thickness of the furniture walls and its contents. You also need to indicate the attachment points for shelves and doors;
top and side view - in this case, the depth of furniture and shelves is marked on a sheet of paper. When applying filling depth values, it is important to take into account the fastening of the doors. To ensure that the shelves do not interfere with the installation of fastening equipment, they should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the edge of the furniture’s front wall. Also in this sketch you need to indicate the rounding of the shelves with a radius of R.

In addition to the indicated values of the furniture body, you need to draw the dimensions of the filling elements on a sheet of paper. Shelves can be made in different configurations and thicknesses, but they must be of the appropriate size.

Manufacturing of parts

Having made a drawing of the cabinet design with your own hands and prepared the appropriate equipment, you can begin to manufacture its parts. To do this, transfer the dimensions of the furniture elements onto a sheet of chipboard using a meter and pencil:

upper part of the cabinet in quantity – 1 piece;
side walls in quantity - 2 pcs;
bottom in quantity - 1 piece;
back wall in quantity – 1 piece;
furniture shelves in the amount of individual consumer preference.

Next, using a saw along the marked lines, they begin to cut out the parts step by step. When performing these works, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the saw itself, otherwise the furniture elements will be smaller after sawing.

A wardrobe is a bulky and fundamental thing that is necessary in every home. Often purchased furniture is not suitable for the price, since intermediaries greatly inflate prices, sometimes they do not match in size or design. In this case, you usually have to look for a small company ready to fulfill a personal order. However, as practice shows, workshops ask for a lot of money. The most profitable solution In this situation, it is necessary to independently manufacture a cabinet at home.

Kinds

Before you start, you need to decide what kind of cabinet you need. Depending on the location, there are two main types:

Built-in models, the main advantage of which is the presence of a floor, ceiling and some walls. This condition significantly reduces the cost of the project. Such options are convenient, since they can be adjusted to any existing niche: recesses in the walls, under the stairs. Oddly enough, this is also a disadvantage of built-in models, since they are built for a specific location and changes are no longer implied. In addition, the curvature of the load-bearing surfaces greatly affects the quality of the cabinets, so they must be leveled before starting the project.
Hull separately standing cabinets represent classic version. Models can be used in any type of premises. Can be disassembled and moved from place to place. In addition, crooked walls, floors or ceilings will not affect the installation. Among the disadvantages can be noted high consumption materials, compared to built-in modifications, and the associated increased cost. However, with proper selection of components, the cost can be reduced.
Partially built-in models are something between the first two options.

Depending on the type of doors, cabinets are classified as follows:

Sliding wardrobe with sliding doors and rigid frame. There are two subtypes: with a roller door movement mechanism and with a monorail. After appearing on the market, such options gained popularity due to the variety of models, designs, and internal contents. In addition, the advantages are multifunctionality and space saving in the room.
Models with hinged doors. Long term operation is the main advantage of such options. As well as practicality and durability.
Options with lifting door leaves.
Open, doorless cabinets.

Designers also divide cabinets according to how they are assembled and style. The style is diverse: folklore, high-tech, baroque, empire, modern, rococo.

In terms of equipment, the following models can be distinguished:

Standard options are typical for large productions; they are manufactured to standard sizes, without any frills. Practical and functional furniture. Most often used for offices.

Serial production is a mass option. It is the release of products in one line, with certain characteristics within the framework of one concept.
Modular cabinets have always been popular. Their advantages are mobility and functionality. Such structures can be divided into separate sections, easily dismantled, rearranged, and combined with each other.

If we consider cabinets by shape, the most common options are:

Linear, in other words, straight.
Corner (depending on the shape of the corner, L or U shaped).
Round. Rounded side or front panels.
Rectangular.

Depending on the number of doors, there are double-leaf, single-leaf, three-leaf or open doors without doors. Of course, combined options are also popular.

The most main characteristic cabinets – functional. Only after a decision has been made on the purpose of the structure, all of the above classifications are taken into account. According to the purpose of use, cabinets are:

For clothes. This includes dressing rooms, wardrobes, which are characterized by hangers for dresses, suits, ties, and trouser holders.
For storing things. Here you can note bedside tables and chests of drawers.
Book. Various modifications are used, from open to combined.
In the hallway. These models are characterized by shelves for shoes and hats, hangers-hooks, umbrella holders, a mirror, and built-in sections for outerwear.
For kitchen. Often, such cabinets are equipped with specific mesh or pull-out shelves for kitchen utensils and dishes, hooks for towels and other small items.

Materials

The most common materials for making cabinet frames are as follows:

Drywall. If a complex configuration is expected, then it is better to choose this option. GCR can be bent into any shape, since it is not afraid of deformation.
MDF. From furniture panels, which do not require cladding, rigid frames are manufactured that do not require bending. The slab is characterized high density unlike chipboard, which makes it more durable. The fittings fit better inside, and the likelihood of chipping when cutting slabs is low. The disadvantage is the large mass. The material is affordable, but more expensive than chipboard.
Chipboard or laminated chipboard. To cut sheets, it is better to use the services of a workshop. At home, the quality of cuts can be poor due to the lack of necessary woodworking tools. You can make various complex elements from chipboard if you have the skills and the necessary machines. Laminated chipboard is distinguished by a laminated layer that protects the sheet from external influences and the user from formaldehyde. In addition, laminate is good in decorative purposes, because it imitates various coatings.

Plywood. The material is low cost. The service life of plywood products depends on the thickness of the sheet, the quality of gluing, and the indoor climate. In any case for large structures large mass unsuitable because it will sag under its own weight.
Solid boards. When choosing, it is better to use wood that is easy to process. Cabinets made of wood species such as maple, ash, acacia, rowan, walnut, and oak will outlive their creators many times over. It should be taken into account that the cost of the project in this case increases significantly.
Old boards. IN Lately Vintage style is gaining popularity. It allows you to give a second life to old things.

For example, having parsed old wardrobe, table, door made of boards, you can create an interior element such as a wardrobe, cabinet, chest of drawers with your own hands.

Boxes. The fashionable hobby of making furniture from packaging cardboard is widespread today throughout the world. Typically a thickness of one to three layers is used. Single-layer cardboard is usually used for interior walls and curved surfaces. To fill the volume, use material with greater thickness. Cabinets made from boxes are the cheapest, but most short-lived option.

Materials for making facades are of no small importance:

The film is convenient in every sense. For the facade you can use the same materials as for the body, pasted over decorative coating. A wide range of films makes it possible to create bright images and decorate a closet in the style of an existing interior. In addition, it is easy to care for.

Photo wallpaper. An excellent and inexpensive solution for decorating the facade.

A mirror is the most popular option, but rarely implemented when making cabinets yourself.

It must be remembered that mirror surfaces are fragile and require certain tools for cutting and adjusting to the required dimensions.

Lining. There are two types of material: wood and plastic. The facade, made of lining of various widths, is suitable for an eco-style interior, for country houses, balconies. Most often released wooden slats 4 classes. Panels of type “C” are subject to the least degree of processing, so they may have knots and cracks. A, B and “Extra” are more attractive, and also different low level resin.

Where to start?

Initial stage self-made cabinet is design.

You need to take it seriously, for this you need:

Determine the future location of the structure. The dimensions and quantity of required materials depend on this.
You should decide what shape the cabinet is planned to be built: straight, corner, built-in, and so on.

Draw sketches of the exterior and interior contents. Determine in advance how many sections, drawers, shelves there will be. Fix the desired number of doors, sliding and hanging elements. Determine the order of arrangement of hooks, hangers, holders. Even the need for installation decorative facade must be decided at this stage.
Select the material, determine the color of the product, comparing all the parameters with the style of the interior. If necessary, decide what texture the façade should have. Identify a company that produces furniture fittings, based on reviews from specialists.

After this, various measurements are performed and calculations are made. It is necessary to understand that calculating the dimensions does not mean measuring the width and length of the cabinet. At the same time, you need to measure the distances between the shelves and the width of the sections. All dimensions are transferred to the drawing for clarity.

When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account that standard width the doors should not exceed one meter. In addition, you should remember about the thickness of the sheet from which the body is made, so 1-2 centimeters are added to the width of the sash. In the same way, the allowance for the height of the door panels is calculated.

The diagram should be clear and take into account all the desired parameters. If it is difficult to complete such a drawing yourself, you will have to turn to specialists.

Features of fastenings

An important stage in building a cabinet with your own hands is the selection of fittings. Today, the furniture industry offers a huge number of fastening and connecting elements. Their characteristics depend on the functional features of the cabinet and operating conditions.

Often for wooden cabinets with doors swing type Four-hinged door hinges are used, which are divided into several types:

Invoices. The most common option for sashes.
Semi-overlay hinges are suitable when one section is closed by two doors.

Internal or hidden installed on inner side doors.
Corner models are necessary for furniture located in corners that require installation of the doors at an angle of 45 degrees.

Inverse awnings allow the door to be opened 180 degrees.
Piano mechanisms have a low degree of reliability, and therefore are rarely installed on cabinets.
Mezzanine hinges have a spring in their mechanism.

Glass sashes can be secured using the following elements:

mounting strips;
fastening loops;
O-rings;
stubs.

For short canvases, two fastenings are sufficient; when lengthening to 1.5 meters or more, the number of loops is increased. If desired, you can install a closer to protect your fingers from injury and increase the durability of the mechanism.

There are several types of shock absorbers, differing in technical parameters and installation method:

The damper is the simplest and cheapest. There are many options on the market, the simplest of which is the self-adhesive model. It is a disk of soft material thickness from 1.5 to 5 mm, diameter from 7 to 10 mm, which is glued to the end of the body. For one sash you need at least two pieces.
Hinge closer. It should be noted that such designs must be purchased immediately with a loop from one manufacturer. The model has the effect of smooth closing of the sash.

Overhead and mortise shock absorbers, unlike those described above, do not depend on the type of hinges. The advantage of invoices is that they are easy to replace, which does not happen often. However, when installing a door closer of this type, it is necessary extra bed for the hole in the box from the end wall. The advantage of the mortise version is that no installation space is required; on the other hand, it is more difficult to replace.

Hinged doors are often equipped with mechanisms designed to open up, down, or in the form of an accordion.

The models are easy to install, their cost is low, and they are convenient to use:

Gas elevators and lifting mechanisms combine the functions of opening and closing up and down. The fundamental selection criterion is the weight of the sash, since the device has varying degrees of force.
Parallel, angled and accordion opening mechanisms. The advantage is greater access to the contents, improved ergonomics of cabinets. The disadvantage is the high cost.

Shelf mounts also have their own classification:

Stationary ones are mounted using several types of holders.
Overlays that are mounted to the wall, to the cabinet body or to the facade. In this case, the shelf is placed on top. They represent different types of corners.

The mortise ones are built into the cabinet.
Brackets are used for heavy loads.

Retractable options consist of rollers and guide rails along which they move. In addition, the mechanisms are usually equipped with limiters and seals.
Rotating models. The main part is the axis of rotation, usually in the form of a pipe of the required height. Additional items– fasteners for the upper and lower parts of the axle, flanges for mounting the shelf.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

Before you start working on the project, you need to prepare all the necessary materials, components and tools.

The following may be required:

drill or hammer drill;
level;
ruler or measuring tape;
pencil;
hammer;

glue;
screws, mounting hardware;
screwdriver;

a hacksaw or circular saw (if you intend to cut out the parts yourself);
iron;
construction knife.

The cabinet assembly scheme at home consists of several stages.

Preparation of parts:

Cabinet elements are cut out from sheets of the selected material: cabinet walls, doors, shelves, drawer elements. Maximum precision is achieved using a circular saw. Cutting can also be done with a hacksaw, but in this case, without skill and experience, chips are possible.

Edge processing. For edging, PVC tapes matching the color are used. Their cost is low, and it is very convenient to process the edges with it. Typically, the thickness of the tape varies from 0.4 to 2 mm. Typically, a thicker one is used to process the apron of visible ribs, and a thinner one is used for those hidden from view. The action plan in this case is as follows.
The iron is turned on at three-quarters of its maximum power.

The tape is applied to the end with the adhesive surface and ironed several times.
Run along the edge with a soft, dry cloth, pressing firmly.
The remaining tape is cut with a knife.
Preparation of accessories. It is necessary to collect the required number of fasteners, hinges, handles, hangers and other important details.

Frame assembly:

If the cabinet is built-in or will be located under the stairs, then most likely it will be missing any frame elements: bottom or top bar, sidewalls. In this case, the walls should be prepared for installation of the structure, leveled, puttied, painted or pasted over.
If other cabinet options are planned, then drill holes in the places of future fastenings.
Connect the body parts together. First of all, the sidewalls are attached to the bottom, then the upper part must be attached to them. For work, it is better to use the simplest fasteners - confirmats.
Checking verticality using a level.
If necessary, secure the back wall.

Installation of shelves and cabinets:

To begin with, make markings for dividing the internal space into sections. Next, mark the location of the shelves and built-in cabinets.
Install sectional partitions. Depending on the plan, they can be from the floor to the ceiling of the cabinet, or below. In the latter case, the presence of a horizontal partition is implied.
Fastenings for internal filling are installed on the side and sectional panels of the frame. If stationary shelves are planned, then these can be ordinary corners. In the case of retractable shelves or drawers, guide gutters are installed.
Installation of other elements: hooks, holders, hanging rods.

Then the doors are fastened. In order to assemble cabinet doors, you must adhere to certain algorithms for different options door

Closet:

Installation of the upper and lower guides, monitoring their parallelism using a plumb line.
Installation of stoppers.
Installation of roller elements on the door, if this type of mechanism is planned.
The doors are inserted into the grooves, starting from the top, until they click.
Check whether the sash moves freely.
Installation of additional fittings if necessary.

Swing doors:

Hinges of the selected type are installed on the doors.
If necessary, shock absorbers are installed.
The handles are screwed in.
The verticality and closing mechanism are checked.

Tilt and lift doors:

For hinged doors gas elevators are most often installed. Purchased mechanisms are always equipped with instructions. You should read it carefully before installation. First of all, fasteners for gas elevators are installed on the side parts of the cabinet body.
Such fasteners are installed on doors that will rise.
Next, the doors are mounted using canopies or hinges on the side that will be the future axis of rotation.
Then the elevators are installed. To do this, their head must be placed on the fastener until it clicks on both sides.
With the door closed, adjustments are made.
Professionals emphasize that at least 2 mechanisms must be installed on one façade to prevent warping.

Then the final processing of the cabinet is carried out. At the end of assembly, the appearance is completely sanded. All screws are closed decorative plugs. Polishing with a soft cloth is necessary to clean the product from dust and drilling residues. The facades are designed depending on the designer’s ideas using mirrors and other decorative elements.

You can also see how to make a cabinet with your own hands in the video below.

Organization of internal space

The functional structure of the internal filling of cabinets consists of many elements that satisfy the owner’s requirements. A competent design should provide easy access to any things in the closet and prevent the formation of odors.

Pull-out and sliding drawers, rotating shelves are not only convenient to use, but also ergonomic in nature. They allow you to rationally use the internal space. For large wardrobes, lifting rods are often used for hangers and trouser holders, which can either rise or, if necessary, go deep into the closet. If the design is intended for a hallway, then it includes a box for storing shoes and shelves for hats.

Kitchen cabinets filled with a variety of elements from rotating bar counters to retractable cutting board. Due to the fact that it is necessary to store many different utensils in the kitchen, the functionality interior decoration cabinets have many faces and are determined only by the wishes of the owners.

How to post?

The wardrobe is the most bulky interior element in the room. There are options for their location that will allow you to “hide” and not clutter up the space.

In a niche

If the apartment has natural niches, this will greatly facilitate the task. The cabinet is simply built into them. Niches can be created artificially, which will allow not only to install structures for storing things in them, but also other interior elements: a fireplace, a TV.

Part of the room

If the space allows, then you can fence off a piece of the room and organize a wardrobe in it. At the same time, it is better to choose the darkest corner of the room so that the room remains light.

Pantry

Private houses are sure to have different storage rooms. Sometimes they are found in city apartments. If the owner wishes, the cabinet can be perfectly hidden in the pantry. At the same time, the effort for its design is minimal, since the functions of the body are performed by the walls of the room. It is enough to organize the internal content.

In the room

Standard options The cabinet installations in the room are as follows:

From wall to wall, from floor to ceiling. The effect of a solid wall is created. Facade decoration mirror surfaces, will visually expand the space. By choosing doors in the color of the walls, you can achieve a “disappearing” effect.

Alcove. The cabinets are installed on both sides, forming a niche between each other. The alcove formed in this way is filled with any interior elements: bed, dressing table, work zone, TV.

Openings. Inter-door and inter-window distances can be used rationally using modular cabinets. The structures are mounted on both sides of the opening; mezzanines can be installed above the opening. The element connecting the cabinets under the window is often designed in the form of a bench or sofa.

What can you make from an old wardrobe?

If you lost your old cabinet appearance, but the fastening elements are intact and not loose, the body also does not have significant flaws, in this case you should pay attention to various techniques that allow you to remake or decorate outdated furniture.

There are many budget options to update your cabinets:

Repaint it yourself, for example, using stencils.
You can cover the doors with photo wallpaper or vinyl film.

If the panels are glass or mirrored, then you can use the services of private workshops for matting or sandblasting.
Decoupage using vintage paper or wallpaper.
In the kitchen, you can use tiles to decorate the facades.

If the fastenings do become loose and fall out, it is impossible to keep the cabinet in its original form. In this case, elements for another design can be cut from its parts. Craftsmen create benches, shelves, poufs and other interior items.

Interior layout ideas

Large built-in wardrobes are popular. They are installed both in hallways and living rooms. Usually they occupy all the space provided from floor to ceiling. Internal content is organized depending on the wishes of the owner. Advantages – functionality, possibility of embedding various elements for storing things, including vacuum cleaners, ironing boards, washing and dishwashers. Such structures can be installed in any places inaccessible to cabinet furniture, in attics, niches, corners.