| Service name | Price |
| Sanding walls in timber or log house, 1 pass (60 or 80 grain) | 200 rubles per 1 m² |
| Sanding the ends of timber logs | 100 rubles for 1 linear. meter |
| Wall polishing (120-grit) | 200 rubles per 1 m² |
| End polishing (120-grit) | 200 rubles for 1 linear. meter |
| Floor sanding, 1 pass (60 or 80 grit) | 200 rubles per 1 m² |
| Floor sanding, 1 pass (120 grit) | 200 rubles per 1 m² |
An estimate for polishing a log frame is drawn up after a specialist visits the site.
Additional services
As a rule, walls and floors are sanded in 2–3 passes. During the first pass, the plane is leveled, protruding edges and ends of the logs are removed. A second pass with finer grains makes the surface smooth and prepares it for painting.
Sanding allows you to return the wood to its natural, beautiful structural appearance. To save it to long years, polished walls or floors must be protected from exposure to ultraviolet radiation and moisture. To do this, paint it or soak it in oil, cover it with parquet varnish.
Sanding the walls of a log house is necessary to remove bark residues, knots, stains of blue or mold and other defects from the surface of the log. However, it will be required even if high quality lumber: wood begins to lose its attractive appearance over time. Mechanical restoration allows you to return it to its original appearance; you can carry it out yourself or contact specialists.
Sequencing
This is quite a long and painstaking work: completely polishing a log house can take several days, it is carried out both manually and using special equipment.
Despite its apparent simplicity, the process requires skill and experience, and also takes a lot of time and effort. In many cases, owners wooden houses They prefer to entrust it to professionals and not waste their energy in vain.
If you are going to process wood for the first time, it is better to start with an inconspicuous area. It's not easy to achieve if you're not used to it high-quality processing and get a smooth, not wavy surface. Sanding a log house with your own hands is carried out in several stages:
Because of this, beginners are advised to work gradually: first one wall is cleaned, it is covered with an antiseptic, and then they move on to the next area. If you clean the entire surface, you may not have time to cover it. protective composition, and alterations will be inevitable.
Cost of services from professionals
Not everyone has the time and desire to treat the walls of their home on their own, and in this case it is easier to turn to specialists. The cost of sanding work is quite high, but the costs are justified, since an experienced craftsman will do the job much faster and better than the home owner himself.
How much does it cost to polish log walls? Let's compare examples of prices offered by construction companies in the Moscow region:
Thus, we see that prices for polishing range from 200–270 rubles per sq. m. meter, the final price depends on the total area of the walls. In addition, polishing, necessary to create a perfectly smooth, even and shiny surface, and impregnation with antiseptics will be additionally paid for (the cost of the service is also reflected in the table).
Independent work also has one more disadvantage: you will have to purchase the entire set of tools and Consumables, which a beginner spends much faster than a professional. As a result, the benefit turns out to be very small, so it is better to immediately turn to specialists.
As a result of professional grinding, no defects will appear; it will allow you to obtain smooth walls pleasant shade, and treatment with an antiseptic solution will protect them from rotting for a long time.
(or you can go to the first photo in the left menu). But, in addition to installing the bathhouse and erecting a roof over it, in 2011 we managed to carry out a number of events in the house itself. Having completed the arrangement process new apartment, we will devote the entire next year 2012 to “bringing to mind” the house and, if possible, the bathhouse. This article will talk about the features of grinding the walls of a log house (in in this case wooden walls exactly at home).
When you communicate with construction companies at the stage of designing and manufacturing a log house, you somehow don’t even imagine the whole burden of problems in the further construction of a house or bathhouse that you will have to shoulder in the future. And this situation is, of course, true not only for log houses and bathhouses, but also for any suburban construction.
But when all these problems begin to arise, you begin to appreciate the beauty of human relationships, because in one company they will simply turn their backs on you as soon as you have paid the last payment, while in others they will readily help and answer questions even several years after completion construction of a log house. I am very pleased that the Rus Log Company belongs to the second category, in fact, That’s why I ordered a bathhouse from them this year, and for the same reason I’m writing these lines.
Having hit the bumps in building a house, and now a bathhouse, I understand that other developers will also face these problems. Therefore, let our experience and the advice that we received from the specialists of “Rus...” become available to other clients of this company, and simply to connoisseurs of log houses and bathhouses.
So, our story today is about sanding the walls of a house. Well, to be more precise, this year we sanded and painted interior walls in the house, as well as internal and external walls in the log bathhouse. We will tell you about sanding the bathhouse and painting it in separate articles (see links), there we will briefly dwell on the features relating specifically to the work on the bathhouse. We will also talk about painting the walls of the house in a separate article; this question also turned out to be not as simple as we previously thought.
Photo of the living room in 2011 after sanding the walls.
You can see what our walls look like after sanding in the previous photo. Of course, the house began to be perceived in a completely different way. My only main mistake is that I should have done the sanding before installing the floors and ceilings, but we will dwell on this in more detail a little later. Now let’s go together along the entire difficult path that led to such beauty.
Note from autumn 2013. It’s always interesting to look ahead a little to understand “what all this was started for.” On next photo You can see how the living room looked after sanding and painting the walls. Well, and at the same time after a number of other events (from a fireplace and heated floors, to tiles and doors).
Photo of the same living room, but taken in the fall of 2013.
Initiative is punishable or “come on guys”
At first glance, you cannot say that sanding the walls of a log house is hard work that requires skill, strength and endurance. When two years ago I found out approximately how much polishing would cost me inside the house, then I said: what nonsense is this, I can handle it just fine myself. Just think - drive and drive with a grinding machine. I was also “motivated” by my good friend and senior comrade, let’s call him Yu.V., since I did not ask for his consent to this publication. At one time (being a teacher, having two higher education, candidate of science and associate professor) built in a couple of weeks country house for his father-in-law. In short, in addition to a refined mind and a rather sharp tongue, which many were afraid of, he also had golden hands.
Of course, at work we often discussed the construction of my and his dachas. And then one day he asked me what I actually did at the dacha with my own hands, because you need to put your soul and heart into a house. So, I say, my wife and I seemed to be developing the project in agony, I planned and installed the electrics myself, and that’s probably all. And he told me - well, can’t you sand the walls yourself, and really, I thought, why not. By the way, Yu.V. I was very unlucky with the builders; he also built a log house, but he ordered it through mutual friends, and they let him down.
Heavy men's work- sanding the walls of the log house
No sooner said than done. I already knew at that moment that they were polishing log walls an angle grinder, in common parlance - Bulgarian. Walking into a large hardware store, I asked to show me all the attachments for the grinder. Having chosen two, in my opinion, the most suitable, I asked them to pick up the disks for them. I also already knew that for grinding wheels with a grain size of 80 are used. I especially liked the German attachment with Velcro; it was, of course, a little expensive (about 1000 rubles), but, in my opinion, very convenient.
Arriving at the dacha, I dropped everything and rushed to try my acquisitions in action. I had the good sense to start from an “invisible” place. In the bathroom on the first floor, I chose the wall where the shower will be located. The very first attempt at polishing showed that it was far from so simple.. The grinder was simply torn out of my hands and thrown from side to side, from under the circle on the new skin sparks began to fly in all directions, because of this, scuffs arose, I was unable to make a smooth stripe, everything turned out to be some kind of waves.
But the most unpleasant surprise awaited me when I tried to sand the log at the horizontal joint between the crowns. My vaunted German nozzle with its upper (i.e., back to the skin) part left a thick black streak on a nearby log. Another thing that unpleasantly struck me was that the 80's discs wore out at a very incredible speed. The delivered package of discs melted before our eyes. I tried the second attachment, where the grinding disc was secured with a bolt. As it turned out later, this was already closer to the truth, but even here it was very difficult to polish the logs in the cuts and at the joints. I installed the German Velcro attachment again, but in my disappointment I forgot to attach the sanding disc itself. When I started running the grinder along the log, I immediately felt that something was wrong. And then it dawned on me that “it wasn’t the reel, …” and I myself ruined the nozzle for almost a thousand rubles. This was the last “dot the i” and I finally realized that everyone should mind their own business.
Later, watching the guys work and communicating with them, I realized some of my mistakes. Firstly, you need another (second) nozzle. Secondly, the new disk must first be slightly ground down on an auxiliary section of the log (usually in openings for interior doors, what will be covered in the future with casing boxes) - in this case, the largest grains fly off and the disk will not “cut” the log and spark. Thirdly, I realized that the grinder should be moved not by moving the hands, but by using the shoulders and forearms, then smoothness and parallelism of the movement will be achieved, and accordingly the log will be smooth and without “waves”. Last recommendation will be understandable to volleyball and tennis players. In volleyball, when receiving the ball with both hands from below, you also need to “work” with your shoulders and torso, and not bend your elbows, otherwise the ball will fly in an unpredictable direction. Similarly, in tennis, when receiving the ball with a racket held with two hands, similar work of the whole body is also required, and not just the hands.
We got a little distracted. In short, even if I knew all this in theory, in practice all this would still turn out to be hard work. But you still had to scrape it out with a chisel upper layer wood in the corners. In short, then I clearly decided for myself that I needed to do something around the house or the bathhouse, but I needed to do what I was good at.
By the way, to be objective, I wasn’t the only one who had such a “crazy” thought. WITH light hand employees of "Rus" I met and maintain friendly relations with Maxim Marinin, our famous figure skater and simply a wonderful person (editor's note, more details about the bathhouse built by Maxim Marinin are told).
Since he and I are in approximately the same state, in the sense of being drawn into the construction process, we periodically exchange interesting and useful information By various aspects construction. So, once Maxim wrote that he had purchased a good grinding machine (not an angle grinder, but a specialized grinder) and was planning to grind the frame of the bathhouse himself. He, like me, was alarmed by the cost of this work - at first glance it seems overpriced. I told him my story described above and recommended that he still leave it to the specialists and do something more familiar himself. But Maxim is as purposeful as I am, and he decided to try everything from his own experience. The result turned out to be similar, we both realized that “what is Caesar’s is what is Caesar’s”, and it is better to earn money in the way we are accustomed to – it will be more effective.
Tools and consumables for grinding
Before bringing the builders to the dacha, I took care of the purchase grinding discs. The question turned out to be quite non-trivial. But first, a few words about the process itself. The main plane of the chopped walls is cleaned with a grinder with an attachment on, onto which a grinding disc is bolted. But there are places where the grinder does not reach - these are the corners of cuts, walls near the ceiling or near the floor (if you, like me, already have the floor installed). There you have to work manually - with a chisel. In the photo below you can see two such corners of the cuts. The upper corner has already been cleaned with a chisel, but the lower corner has not, the circles where the disk was able to reach are clearly visible.
Working with a chisel in the corners of cuts. In the upper corner a layer of wood has been manually removed, in the lower corner not yet.
It is clear that grinders, attachments and chisels are the concern of builders, but I advise you to take care of grinding discs separately so that unpleasant incidents do not occur.
The grinding discs came out in bunches. The photo on the left shows the mark on the disc grain size (60) in blue.
The best option is if the builders take on the “procurement” of sanding discs; it is more difficult if you have to do this (for example, buy additional ones). The fact is that these disks are required very much a large number of. Offhand, it took us about two and a half boxes for the house and the bathhouse. Each box contains 8 packs, each pack contains 25 discs. In total, there are 200 discs in the box, about 500-600 discs in total. As the builders told me, on square meter The wall takes from 1 to 3 disks, so count it. By the way, you need to calculate the area, and therefore the volume of work, and therefore your costs, correctly. Masters use the so-called height coefficient. The fact is that your walls are uneven, but with rounded crowns. Therefore, several control measurements are taken, a tape measure is taken, and the tape goes around all the bends of the crowns. It turns out that with a ceiling height of, say, 2.5 meters, the actual height of the wall turns out to be about 3 meters. For me this was news, but for you now it is no longer news.
Let's get back to the disks. If you go to a construction hypermarket and try to buy so many discs there, you will realize that it is cheaper for you to cover the walls with gold leaf. Of course, I had to promptly purchase several dozen disks, especially those with an increased diameter (150 mm); to be honest, this is not a cheap matter.
So what to do? There is a way out: turn to “ to a domestic manufacturer"! The fact is that supermarkets sell mostly imported products, and the specialists of Rus Log Chataya recommended purchasing discs from the Luga Abrasive Plant - they are several times cheaper, and the quality is not much inferior to imported ones. It is clear that not everyone will be able to “hit the road” to Luga, look for this plant, etc. Here it would be optimal if the builders organize it. I am grateful to the leadership of “Rus...” that I had no problems with this. Moreover, usually large construction companies, as “Log Rus'” buys these discs in bulk (by wholesale we mean several dozen boxes, i.e. thousands of discs), which costs them significantly less than if you came to the factory yourself. Unfortunately, or rather to my sincere amazement, the Luga plant has neither a representative office nor even a retail outlet in St. Petersburg, which is a pity.
And one more aspect regarding discs is their grain. For For final sanding, 80 or 60 grit discs are used.(see circled numbers in photo above). Of course, the result of using 80 sandpaper is more pleasant to the touch, but most likely it will have to be sanded after second layer, and the first time go through with a coarser sandpaper. In the house we did 80, and in the bathhouse we did 60, but in one layer. In principle, it feels almost imperceptible, especially after painting. By the way, looking ahead, I will say that after the first layer of water-based varnish you will have to sand the walls again, this time simply by hand, without a grinder, because... It is the water-based varnish that lifts all the pile formed on the surface. But we will talk about this in more detail in a separate article.
In addition to 60 and 80, builders use sanding discs with grit 40– for sanding the ends of logs, of course, much less of this sandpaper will be needed. I repeat - what in ideal Builders should take on all these problems so that you don’t have to quit your job and run around St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region in search of certain grinding discs.
Sanding a house: first and unsuccessful attempts or the role of recommendations
So, by mid-summer I had a paradoxical situation that it seemed like there was money for construction and builders individual works there is, but I can’t start work. The fact is that at that moment I was kept busy by sanding the walls in the house. I could not install casings and internal trim on the windows (the specifics of our windows are described) without sanding the walls. For the same reason, I could not lay plumbing connections around the house, make heated floors, etc. But the most important thing is the fireplace. The fireplace is a “separate story”. It was designed for us according to the author's design based on the Swedish Keddy fireplace cassette. We decided to make the fireplace lining from soapstone chloride; it was ordered back in the winter and was finally ready by summer. The installation of the fireplace, as you understand, was also maintained by sanding. And the fireplace itself supported the insulation of the roof of the house (by the way, we didn’t have time to do the roof this year and postponed it to 2012).
I called Denis Migachev, general. director of “Rus” and asked if his “fighters” could polish my house, and at the same time the bathhouse. He replied that, unfortunately, all the brigades were busy and on the move, and that, at best, the nearest brigade would be free in 3-4 weeks. I didn’t want to wait so long; summer is passing. We called out among our friends and one distant friend of a friend said that he had people in mind who had experience sanding the walls of wooden houses. At that time, I did not yet know all the intricacies of grinding and considered that this would be labor-intensive, but in principle a simple matter, this team can handle it too.
This coming Friday I went and picked up two “specialists” from the previous site and brought them to my dacha. The guys turned out to be from Ukraine, I organized their entire life, we walked around the house and examined all the walls. Andrey, he was their eldest, said that for grinding logs adjacent to the floor and ceiling, larger diameter discs (150 mm) would be needed, which I should have bought.
Half of Saturday I ran around the shops looking for these discs - all to no avail, Velcro - please, but there were simply no such clamping ones. Desperate, I again called my “magic wand” Denis Migachev. He immediately said that I needed to go to the Castorama store, and indeed, there I picked up all the available disks of the size I needed at a “zero price”; by the way, the price tag was “biting”, each disk cost 50-70 rubles. Denis also scolded me that I did not wait for his guys, since here he clearly guaranteed quality. I had to apologize and refer to what I thought was an unacceptable time delay.
Arriving home, I called my grinders and “reported” that their request had been fulfilled - the discs had been purchased. And this Andrey responded to me and said that, in fact, they had already moved out of the dacha, the work was not interesting to them and the conditions did not suit them. I was simply taken aback by what I heard and slowly sat down on a chair. Wait, I say, I am inclined to dialogue, if there are problems, voice them, if this is really the case, I am ready to increase the price of the work. He answered me that the house is old (even though the frame is only 3 years old), sanding is very difficult, you have to first go through it with coarse-grained sandpaper, and then again - 80-coat. I hung up and began to come to my senses. In my 45 years, no one has ever done this to me. Well, find the courage in yourself and tell the customer that you are not interested in this, but say it to his face, but like this, leaving someone else’s trusted home, running away like a rat from a sinking ship - this was incomprehensible to me. Having come to my senses, I called this Andrey again and calmly “put him in his place,” explaining that “big boys” don’t act like that, and that if I find at least the slightest problem at my dacha, then I will find him with a friend throughout the Leningrad region. In fact, I wasn’t lying, if this became a matter of principle, then thanks to my wife’s connections, we would be able to “ruin the lives” of these guys, I just usually don’t want to waste time and get my hands dirty on such people. My principle is to draw conclusions, forget and move on. That's what we did. The next day we arrived at the dacha, found the keys to the gate and the house in the place indicated by the would-be builders, and checked that everything was in order and in place. We began to think about what to do next - time was ticking.
Second attempt - with guaranteed results
As you understand, my next call was again to Denis, I told him the story that had happened and asked him to reserve his builders for me, we had nowhere to go, so we were ready to wait. Denis promised to speed up the process and, indeed, three days later they removed a specialist named Adrian from the facility, called his cousin Ivan, an aspiring specialist, to help him, but Adrian promised to organize the learning process “as the play progresses” and guaranteed that everything would be on the highest level. It was assumed that a couple more guys would arrive in a week or two, but later we abandoned this, since the pace of the builders’ work, and most importantly the quality, satisfied me.
The main task that I set for the sanders was to quickly sand and paint the house, primarily those rooms where the fireplace will be located and the chimney will pass through (on the second floor). Secondly, I decided to polish the inside of the bathhouse as well, in order to “close the topic.” Looking ahead, I note that later we decided to polish the bathhouse outside as well, “to walk, just walk,” although, of course, additional justifications appeared for this step.
The work has begun. The guys started from the second floor so that dust would not settle on the work already done. I’ll say right away – there was, of course, “immense” amounts of dust. To clean walls from dust, it is convenient to use ordinary brooms and a vacuum cleaner. Without a vacuum cleaner, of course, it’s difficult, especially later – when you need to clean the corners and joints of the logs before painting. I still had a “technical” vacuum cleaner, which we bought when renovating the apartment, here it served its purpose again.
Grinding is mountains of garbage... ...or fertilizer, depending on how you look at it :)
Based on the results of the work of the first “Uh brigade”, I realized that it was necessary to protect the mechanisms plastic windows and roof membrane. Therefore, I bought several packages of film (there is thin, and there is thicker - the second is better) - it is usually used to cover furniture and floors during renovations. I asked the guys to first cover all the window openings with film and staple the entire roof on the second floor (now we only have tiles and a waterproof membrane from the roofing pie in the house), the rest internal roof we planned to do it after installing the fireplace, sanding and painting the walls.
And so the work began to boil. I’ll say right away that it was a long process; in total, the guys worked for me for almost a month and a half. But during this time, the inside of the house was sanded, the bathhouse was sanded on both sides, all this was painted with varnish three times, and inside the premises - after the first layer of varnish, the pile that appeared was also manually sanded.
Watching them work, I studied grinding technology out of interest. Let's focus on the most important points this process. Sanding walls from a gun carriage can be divided into three components: processing the upper and lower edges of the log, as well as processing the flat part of the log. For round logs, everything is somewhat more complicated; you have to smoothly go around all the roundness of the wood. The described stages are illustrated in the next three photos.
Processing the bottom edge of the log
Grinding the top edge of the carriage log
Wall plane processing
Particular problems were caused by sections of the walls under the ceiling and near the floor. Therefore, let me remind you once again of my recommendation: the frame should be sanded BEFORE installing windows, installing ceilings and floors. The main thing is that the log house is under a roof. The presence of logs is welcome, it is convenient to temporarily throw boards on them - this is what happened to me in the bathhouse.
By the way, let's talk about one more recommendation that emerged during the work. Of course it's better to polish new log house than the already established one. In addition to the mentioned windows and floors, the hardening process of the wood also comes into play here. Accordingly, the consumption of skins on such a log house will be slightly higher. True, belated grinding also revealed advantages; we will talk about this in more detail in a future section devoted to insulating a log house after shrinkage.
Let's return to the difficult areas to work with. The floors were a little easier. We plan to install heated floors on both floors, heated by a heat pump, so the floor level will still be raised by 5-8 cm. This allowed us not to “fight” for the lower edges of the walls. But I really had to suffer with the walls near the ceiling of the first floor. For now we are planning to do it on the first floor stretch ceiling(they hide the unevenness of the wall logs well), they will be separated from the existing draft ceiling from OSB by only 2-3 cm, so sanding the upper parts of the walls was important. Several times my workers threw up their hands and said that they would not be able to sand this or that section of the wall. We understood that, of course, this could be done with a chisel, but this would be absolutely hard labor.
In life, I am an optimist and an engineer, so every time I reassured Adrian and every time we found a solution. These solutions were born “in pain,” therefore, given that they may be useful to you, we will present them briefly.
Grinding hard-to-reach places under the ceiling, in some places we had to modify the tool, show ingenuity, or simply work with a chisel
“Know-how” that emerged as a result of brainstorming:
- the guys cut off the rubber attachment that holds the sanding disc and the sanding disc itself. Thus, from a disk with a diameter of 125 mm we obtained a disk with a diameter of 70-80 mm, which made it possible to work in many hard to reach places Oh;
- somewhere I closed my eyes to the “waves” on the surface of the crowns, because I understood that this zone could only be polished with short vertical movements;
- without hesitation, I allowed the guys to “scratch” the rough ceiling, because there was no other way;
- where it was really tight, I had to work only with a chisel, but there were only two such places left, and they were small ones.
By the way, my experiments with the grinder came in handy. On one of these occasions, an emotional Adrian said in his heart that he couldn’t get there. And I look and think, why do you need to make movements from top to bottom, but what if you turn the grinder over and start working from bottom to top. Adrian tells me in response that it’s impossible, the grinder will simply fly out of your hands. Let's try, I said. Believe it or not, in front of the “amazed public” I managed to carefully clean up a previously inaccessible area. Damn, “skill doesn’t drink away,” I even thought.
Of course, one cannot fail to mention another rather labor-intensive stage of work - cleaning the surface of the logs in the corners of the cuts with chisels. The photo below shows this operation close-up from different angles. In the photo is Adrian himself. His brother, Ivan, out of natural modesty, tried to avoid the lens, but I did not insist.
Labor-intensive work of manually cleaning the corners of cuts where the sanding disc cannot reach.
The same work in the corners of the cuts, but close-up.
On the right side of the photo above you can clearly see that the crowns were not completely sanded - the guys then processed the edges for window and door openings separately. This was due to the fact that most of the windows were covered with film at that time.
The next photo shows a close-up of a wall made of round log. Traces from the discs are clearly visible. This is what the wall looked like after being covered with rough sandpaper with 40 grit.
Sanded wall - close-up. Disc marks are visible. This wall was polished twice, first with 40 grit and then with 80 grit. The photo shows the result of rough sanding.
As a result of the work done to polish the house, the living room simply “played.” To be honest, my wife and I do not regret the money spent on sanding, because it essentially replaces the traditionally expensive final finishing of the walls. Once one of our friends, having visited our house, asked, what will you use to line the walls from the inside? My wife and I looked at him like “Lenin looked at the bourgeoisie” and said, what are you talking about, for the sake of these wooden walls, everything, in fact, was started!
As a result of sanding, the house began to look “like new”
In conclusion of this article, even if we look ahead a little, we will show how the same room began to look, but already with painted walls and an installed fireplace. The top decorative grille is still missing on the fireplace, so the air duct pipes are visible.
Photo of the living room after painting the walls with varnish water based and installation of a fireplace with soap chloride lining.
Don’t be surprised that the fireplace podium is raised above the floor - this is intended, since the subfloor is made of CBPB slabs The insulation will be laid, and then the heated floor pipes will be laid in the screed. According to our plans, the level tiles should just reach the level of the fireplace podium.
To take a closer look at the walls, here is a photo of the chimney against the background of the wall of the attic floor. Overall we were pleased with the quality of sanding and painting.
Photo of the second floor wall, on the left - fireplace chimney (finishing artificial stone)
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Manufacturing of the FOUNDATION,
- production of LOCATED HOUSES,
- ASSEMBLY of the log house on the foundation and
- ROOF installation.
The Foundation and Roofing can be carried out by the Customer after approval of the Log House Project. The terms of the Warranty - 5 years for a frame made of cedar carriage (and the assembly of the frame) - are preserved. All this is recorded in the contract for the manufacture of the Log House.
SECOND PHASE:
All work at this stage has a certain sequence, which allows you to quickly and efficiently prepare the house for permanent residence. During this period, the process of SHRINKING OF THE FRAME is underway. Besides, different kinds works require good communication between the performers performing these works. Strict regulations ensure tight deadlines and final quality.
Sanding and painting the log house,
- Electrical Wiring in accordance with the Design,
- Installation of windows and arrangement of platbands,
- Wiring of Networks, Heating, Water Supply and Sewage,
- Insulation and installation of finished ceilings,
- Insulation and installation of a finished floor without finishing coating,
- Arrangement of internal stairs and entrance group At home,
- Cleaning of the floor department of all premises.
It is in this order that work is carried out during turnkey construction. Complex interior work or tiling work in bathrooms is carried out before the finished floor and stairs are installed.
Construction of a WOODEN HOUSE "TURNKEY"
** TURNKEY PACKAGE includes the highest quality materials and components for all types of work:
1. FOUNDATION"grillage", depth 1.8 meters, monolithic cast reinforced concrete pillars with a section of 400x400 mm with monolithic "heels", monolithic cast reinforced concrete beam for everything load-bearing walls log house with a section of 400x400 mm, reinforced floor slab or reinforced concrete slabs for fireplaces and chimneys in accordance with the project, M300 concrete.
2. MANUFACTURING OF THE LOBBY in production, double antiseptic, transport painting, disassembly and packaging, loading, delivery.
3. ASSEMBLY OF THE FRAME at the Customer’s site, taking into account the rental of a truck crane. The log house is fully equipped necessary materials for assembly - flax fiber, birch dowels, expansion joints, etc.
4. ROOFING includes a complete roofing pie made from high quality materials. Flexible tiles"Tegola" natural tiles, seam - steel or copper roofing, basalt insulation Paroc 200 mm or equivalent, Italian diffusion membrane, additional waterproofing, OSB 9 mm, decorative aprons, metal drainage system, sliding rafter system, decorative typesetting "frontal" board, decorative lining of roof overhangs, made of planed boards or 40x40 mm bars, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
5. GRINDING AND PAINTING internal and external walls frame is carried out using sanding belts No. 40 and No. 80, paints for external walls - Pittsburg Paints, Remmers, Teknos, paints for interior spaces- Pittsburg Paints, Remmers, at the request of the Customer, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
6. WINDOWS- glued laminated timber with a cross section of 78x78 mm, painted industrially Zovosan paints (Germany), Mako opening system, double-chamber “winter” double-glazed window 42 mm (three glasses), in all trim levels - pine and cedar houses.
7. ELECTRICAL WIRING it is carried out hidden, fire-resistant metal or imported plastic corrugated pipes are used for wiring the cable inside the walls, high-quality wire, components electrical panel- Legran or ABB, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
8. HVAC- Viessman gas boiler, radiators heating Kermi, boiler, fittings and pipes, boiler room piping kit, the best European manufacturers, water supply and sewerage - all systems inside the house, connections to plumbing fixtures, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
9. CEILINGS– high-quality, wide 140X20 mm cedar lining, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
10. STAIRWAY- beech or larch to choose from: a complete set of high-quality dry glued material for the manufacture of stairs - including bowstrings, steps, railings, balusters, fasteners, varnish, work, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
11. FLOORS- a complete set of “clean” floors, 200 mm insulation, steam and waterproofing, moisture-resistant plywood, floorboards or parquet, tiles or stone in the bathrooms, in all configurations - pine and cedar houses.
12. INPUT GROUP- porch, picket fence and floors of terraces and balconies. Material - solid larch. Fastening, polishing and painting, optional forging. in all configurations - pine and cedar houses. The turnkey package does not include furniture, plumbing fixtures, light sources, or finishing the foundation with stone.
Hello again!
The time has come to talk about sanding and preparing a log frame from a dry gun carriage for painting. The work is painstaking and hard, and therefore the tool is more important the one you work with. Weight, ergonomics, minimal vibrations are important - after all, the process goes on for hours, during which time you can think about a lot, especially about the condition of your hands after a day of grinding with a regular grinder.
To achieve perfect quality coating, you need to use Festool tools. “Yes, this is the same Makita, only three times more expensive,” you say. This is not entirely true. Festo sanders are balanced, have different soles for different tasks, they have a more powerful dust extraction, more reliable design And better ergonomics. Now I’ll tell you which machine is best suited for sanding dry wood, and in general, large areas of wood.
This is the surface we had before the grinding process. I specifically took a defect that was difficult to remove.
The clear leader is Rotex 150. Due to its unique characteristics, it most quickly sands off surface defects of the carriage. The sander sole makes eccentric and rotational movements simultaneously. When necessary, turn on the “rotation and eccentric” mode and quickly sand off significant irregularities. It turns out that this is the same “grinder”, only very comfortable and less rough. Then you change the abrasive to a finer one, turn off the “rotation” mode and finish the surface in the “eccentric” mode. And all this with one machine within a few seconds. Extremely convenient and very effective. During testing, we noted that the Granat series abrasives sand dry pine much more effectively and almost do not clog, unlike Rubin, which, oddly enough, is designed specifically for wood. Festool employees noted this point and took note. And I recommend that if you are going to sand dry coniferous wood, take only Granat. Due to the larger grain and greater distance between the granules, it behaves excellently!
Now about ETS eccentric machines. They are designed for more fine work. Sanding large areas with serious imperfections is a complete pain. This is understandable, you can’t put pressure on them from above - eccentric machines grind only under its own weight, the sole stroke is from 3 to 5 millimeters, depending on the model. These characteristics are more suitable for polishing lining or furniture work than for rough sanding of carriages. But it’s quite possible to pass ETS with a 5 mm stroke and 120 abrasive after Rotex. Polish the surface, so to speak. The ETS EC machine differs from just an ETS in the absence of a built-in turbine for dust removal. It is convenient for her to work indoors with a vacuum cleaner - she is very light and maneuverable.
We tried to grind the carriage with a huge draw machine- it didn’t work out, it’s too heavy and clumsy, and it generates dust mercilessly. In the end, we decided that Rotex was the best solution for preparing large areas for painting. For hard-to-reach places, Festool has a small Rotex 90, but in our conditions this is more of a whim than a necessity. One large 150 mm one can do everything perfectly.
And finally, as a bonus, I’m posting a video: Festool carpenter’s saw. We trim the dry carriage!
Many thanks to TTS Tultekhnik Systems for providing the tools and room for review.
Special thanks to the Industrial Equipment company for organizing the test.