It is better to trust the construction of an arch in a house to professionals - this is an indisputable truth, proven more than once by the facts of collapse homemade designs, their curvature, fragility. It is naive to rely on your own talent and try to make an arch with your own hands using instructions on the Internet. In the worst case, people may get hurt. You first need to calculate the arch in the apartment, which presupposes knowledge of basic formulas and rules. Yes, and the standard appearance is unlikely to be achieved.
The beauty of an arch depends on many factors. One of them is the quality of corner alignment. To prevent even the slightest deviation from the norm when making the central element of the interior, special corners are used. This is what they call an auxiliary working tool and consumables, which will allow you to make the corners very even and not spend a lot of effort on it.
Among self-taught craftsmen, there is an opinion that to form an even arch it is permissible to use any decorative elements. This is not entirely correct; when designing arches they use special devices With certain sizes, which are intended only for finishing structures with indirect lines.
Why are arched corners needed?
An arch of any shape is always complex design. Its edges are in the most vulnerable place, and if they are not strengthened, over time the corners will begin to crumble. The destruction process can be prevented at the installation stage, and special corners will help with this. With their help, workers strengthen the edges, this will prevent deformation, abrasion of paint or other coating, and shedding of putty.
Arched corners are sold in stores standard sizes 20 by 10 mm. For narrow doorways it is better to use decorative elements 5 mm wide, which are also not in short supply.
Corners for arches have a dual purpose: in addition to aligning the edges, they have an aesthetic function and very often help those who decide to install the arch in the doorway themselves.
Calculation of the number of corners
Correct calculation is necessary to cover the edges of the arched surface along the entire length. To do this, you need to measure their total length and add about 10% to the result in case of an erroneous cut.
The difficulty lies in the need to beautifully position the corners on a curved surface. In some places they will have to be leveled, bent and trimmed - painstaking work, although at first glance it seems simple.
The length of one corner is 2.7 m. The range includes three types of decorative elements:
- Colored;
- White;
- Textured, imitating wood surface different color and drawing.
Perforated corners
Unusual looking corners. With their help, it is possible to easily and quickly eliminate irregularities on the edges and at the same time protect them in the future from chips, shedding, and destruction. They go on sale in white and have perforations along the entire length. One edge of the corner is smooth, the opposite is made in the shape of petals. This design was not chosen to save material - it allows you to bend the corners in in the right places without fear of accidental creasing or cracking.
Arched corners, despite their simplicity, are multifunctional and are used for other purposes. They are suitable for finishing suspended ceilings, interior partitions from plasterboard. It doesn't matter on what front repair work you use them - they perform a load-bearing function, because they are installed on the base of the arch, and after installation they require the application of plaster and a finishing layer. Corners are made from PVC or metal, each length no more than 3 m.
The third type of arched corners on the market are cork elements. They are used exclusively in decorative purposes. They are not as durable as their metal and plastic counterparts, so they are not in demand.
How to install corners
The corners are attached to the surface using glue, self-tapping screws or special nails without heads. The most common method is adhesive: it is much easier to secure the corners to the surface using the so-called liquid nails or special sealant. Before choosing a mounting method, make sure that the adhesive option is acceptable in your case. You will have to replace the adhesive compounds with mechanical methods fastening if the glue contains a chemically active reagent that has a detrimental effect on plastic or metal. Some compounds are so aggressive that they can cause deformation of the corner. As a result, instead of a perfectly smooth edge, you will get an unpleasant result.
If out of all the options you still choose adhesive, try to purchase a “Decor” class product. It goes on sale in a wide range and does not harm plastic elements.
Before starting work, take the trouble to prepare the surface: in order to achieve reliable adhesion of the corners to the base, you need the surfaces to be clean, free of dirt and dust. If you are not sure that there are no particles of fat in the corners, walk through inside solvent.
The time has come for priming and impregnation - they are used to treat the surface of the arch and leave to dry for about half an hour. Start gluing the corners. Important point– under no circumstances try to install decorative elements on top of the wallpaper if you do not want to spoil both. Even if you initially manage to secure the corners, they will not last long, so remove all excess materials, only then proceed to finishing.
Plaster corner with mesh is used quite often in construction. It makes finishing corners much easier and allows you to make a high-quality plane.
Today we will tell you how a plaster corner with a mesh is used and where. You can also watch the video in this article and photos, where everything will be shown clearly.
Methodology for performing plastering work
Plaster mesh corner is made in two versions, this is for external and internal corner. The manufacturing material can also be plastic or metal. The choice will depend on the shape and material of the plane to be finished.
All the work can be done entirely with your own hands, then its price will not be significant. Let's now look at different variants doing the work.
Finishing internal corners
When plastering walls, interior corners are finished in two ways:
- Joining of treated and lined walls,
- Carrying out plastering work on two walls at the same time.
Attention: The mesh plaster corner can be used in both versions. It will allow you to maintain the direction of the angle in a geometrically correct form and significantly strengthen it.
- Applying the spray and a layer of primer (see Why a primer is needed: technological nuances of finishing work) is carried out according to classical method, leveling is carried out using the rule, starting from the corner and further along the wall. Then they begin to form the corner, for which markings are made in the form of scratches on the surface of the solution.
- The edge of the trowel or trowel should be applied to the previously plastered wall. The angle should be approximately 30 - 40 degrees. Then you need to bring it to the inner corner, lay it on the newly tiled wall surface and rub it in. The movements should be up and down. After this, the tool should be laid with its base on the newly plastered surface, with its edge pressed against the lined wall.
- By making movements with significant pressure, they cleanse it from plaster mixture. You need to wait for the primer to harden, and then apply the final layer – a covering – to its surface.
- Smoothing of the final layer of covering is carried out using a grater made of wood or polystyrene foam. In this case, you need to ensure that bubbles, depressions and protrusions do not form. It is important to achieve an even covering of the entire wall.
At the final stage of processing the corner, the float must be held so that its lower edge rests on the lined side, and the corner slightly touches the newly plastered surface. - The tool must be moved up and down along the entire length of the angle. The result of the measures taken will be a strictly verified edge between two combined walls.
- The same technique is used to process two joining walls.
Attention: To smooth the solution, it is worth purchasing an angled spatula. This will allow you to maintain the correct angle geometry.
Finishing external corners
External corners are processed using two methods. They are suitable for renovation work and construction.
So:
- The first processing method uses corner profile , made of metal. This allows plastering of both combined walls at the same time, while achieving high corner strength.
- In the second processing method, the work is divided into two stages. Both sides of the corner are plastered in turn.
Attention: The plaster mesh corner protection profile makes it possible to special effort get outside corner walls, characterized by high strength and smooth surface.
- Both sides metal profile attached to its central part and represent meshes. Their thickness depends on the model of the slats. Fix the profile with a regular solution and allow it to harden. After this, a primer layer is applied.
- The corner strip can be installed on a small layer of plaster. To do this, apply the solution from the floor to the ceiling. This will simplify the work of leveling the profile. Any metal corner profile can be easily shortened if required.
- Shelves - grids can be easily cut using metal cutting shears, and cut the central part with a saw. The installed strip can be used as a beacon when smoothing the primer layer.
The hardened mortar is trimmed using a steel trowel.
So that when leveling the joint of the wall planes has correct design, craftsmen often use various plaster corners. Yes, at first glance this detail may seem completely simple to you - it is not so easy to use. If you decide to do this, you must follow a number of rules.
This is exactly what we will talk about in more detail in of this material. Let's look at how to choose a plaster corner and how to use it correctly.
Types of corners
It is not difficult to guess that the plaster corner today is represented by a variety of different types. Now let's look at it in more detail.
Metal models
When a finisher gets to work, he needs to have on hand required number corner pads. And considering that today the range of such products in retail chains is quite wide, it is better to decide on the model in advance - so that there are no unpleasant surprises later.
Overlays for puttying and plastering on corners, depending on the material, are usually divided into plastic and metal. Let's look at each of the product groups, but first, let's look at the most popular ones.
Metal corners for plaster can be made of different metals:
- Made from galvanized steel, these products are highly durable, but at the same time they weigh quite a lot (when compared with analogues). Moreover, there is a possibility that this corner will rust over time - especially in those areas where the plaster layer is thinning. The metal there is exposed to direct moisture (from the atmosphere)
- Made from aluminum, such products are very durable. They are practically not afraid of corrosion and are very light. But there is one “but” - the mechanical parameters of this pad will be an order of magnitude worse than those alternative options. Aluminum is simply a soft metal - and everyone knows this.
To prevent the galvanized steel plate from corroding over time, the product must be handled very carefully during installation. Try not to damage the galvanization when attaching the corner to the wall. It’s better to do the cutting with metal scissors (it’s better to avoid the grinder here).
Metal corners may vary in shape:
- Usually the most popular are simple corners - that is, a strip of metal curved at ninety degrees. The thickness of this product is only 0.4 mm. Perforation is applied to the sides of such an overlay - this is done so that the mass of the product becomes even smaller. And thanks to such actions, adhesion to the plaster mortar significantly increases;
- The plaster corner with mesh looks a little different. Such models are selected when wet plastering is performed. In this situation, the corner itself is equipped with a narrow overlay - a steel mesh, the width of which is a couple of cm, is attached to its edges.
The perforated plaster corner is ideal for securing planes. At the same time, your finish becomes more durable - that's a fact.
- Today on the market you can also choose for yourself models of corners that are combined. In this situation, the aluminum or steel corner is equipped with a special polymer mesh(fiberglass is especially popular). U similar products have all the advantages of both plastic and metal models plaster corners;
- It’s also nice that the cost of combined plaster overlays is a little higher - but they will also serve you longer;
- The main difficulty in working with metal linings is that such material is susceptible to corrosion, especially due to exposure to alkalis and acids. That is why many craftsmen advise installing them only if the finishing is done with latex, acrylic or plaster.
Plastic models
Let's consider the options which are the most used today:
- The linings are standard - this element is identical in design metal corner. But instead of steel or aluminum, they choose plastic for production - that’s enough High Quality. Such overlays are not afraid of corrosion, so if you are plastering rooms where the humidity level is high, they should definitely be used;
- The main disadvantage of a standard plastic corner is that the thickness of the material is quite large. At the same time, plaster is not usually applied in a thick layer; it rarely happens that the layer is more than 3 mm. And this is quite enough to disguise a plastic product;
- Arched corners for plaster are used in situations where it is necessary to form the joint of planes on surfaces that are curved. One side of this corner is not made solid - it is segmented. Due to this, the product can always be bent, and the bending radius will be arbitrary;
- In addition, you can easily find mesh corners for plastic plaster. Grid in in this case– overhead element. These corners are used to be embedded in a thick layer of plaster. At the same time, the reliability of fixation increases many times over, because the corner will be held not only on the base, but also due to the high adhesion of the mesh part and the solution;
- It should be noted that this is a model that is not used very often. We are talking about a universal mesh corner for plaster. This is a thin strip of plastic (or even tape) - a strong mesh will suffice. You can bend it at any angle. These overlays are used to form oblique angles - that is, those that are less or more than ninety degrees.
Often enough this model used when finishing is done internal joint walls If it were not for such an element, the work here would have to be done without an overlay at all - which is not recommended.
The main advantage of plastic plaster corners is that they are chemically inert. Often such products are placed directly into (which, moreover, has an alkaline reaction). And in general, polymers are not afraid of corrosion - in many ways this makes them very popular (even if we take into account low level strength compared to metal products).
How to use corner pads - let's figure it out
Now let's talk about how to properly use plaster corners (overlays). However, first things first.
Preparing a corner for finishing
In order for a plaster corner made of metal or plastic to fully cope with its function (protect the joint of planes from possible damage), it must be installed correctly.
In fact, such a task is not particularly difficult. But you need to pay attention to certain points:
- First of all, there must be a main wall. To do this, you need to check the quality of the surface - if necessary, all loose elements are removed;
- Then, all walls are primed and dust-free, including the corner. First, remove the dust, then apply a primer. This must be done in any situation - so that the plaster layer has good adhesion to the base;
- In the case where the wall joint is severely damaged, before installing the plaster corner, leveling is carried out - this will help with this work plaster mortar. Of course, due to this approach, the work time will increase, and the finishing will take longer - but it is better to “lose” a couple of days in this way than to get a plane at an angle;
- Next, plaster beacons are placed on the plane. You need to focus directly on them when aligning steel or aluminum corners.
Only when all the preparation work has been completed can you begin to install the plaster overlay.
Fastening the corner
This is not to say that installing a corner on a wall is somehow difficult. Let's look at a very simple instruction:
- Small piles of solution are placed on the surface. 300 mm - this is exactly the optimal pitch;
- The overlay is cut to size - a knife will help you with this (if you are working with plastic models). If the corner is made of metal (aluminum or steel), use metal scissors. From use circular saw it is better to abstain - corrosion processes will then necessarily be activated where the heating was;
- The corner is installed on the wall, it is pressed into the mortar so that the plaster penetrates the perforation. If there are mesh pads on the edges, they should be immersed in the leveling layer as deeply as possible;
- Using a level and rules, they monitor the correct installation of the lining. If the need arises, the position of the part is adjusted by smooth pressing.
Please note that if you have not applied enough mortar, you will have to remove the overlay and add a leveling mixture. The corner, in any case, must be placed with the beacons on the same level. There is no need to “remove” the plane with plaster alone.
If the finishing layer is thin - The corner can also be mounted on mechanical fasteners.
But at the same time:
- The overlay is installed at an angle, aligned horizontally and vertically;
- For fastening, holes are drilled with a hammer drill;
- Plastic sleeves must be driven into the resulting holes - they are fixed with locking stainless screws;
- If your wall material allows, it is necessary to use not anchors, but self-tapping screws made of stainless steel;
- Keep in mind: you should not use standardized fasteners here, since if they oxidize, rusty marks may appear - either on your plaster, or even on the finish that will be applied over the plaster layer.
Grouting the joint of planes and leveling
As soon as the mortar on which the corner pad was installed hardens - you can start plastering.
Here everything is done like this:
- As part of the first stage, the wall is leveled - at the same time, the corner is not reached by about 400 mm;
- Then the mortar is placed not so far from the established corner - and using the rule it is smoothed: this way all excess will be removed;
- The above operations are repeated, but this time it is not the rule that is used, but a wide spatula or grater;
- The connecting planes are aligned - the master must ensure that during this work no plastic or metal is exposed;
- To create an inner corner, you can use a special spatula. Its blade has a special shape - therefore, both surfaces can be removed very efficiently: a correct depression will be formed between them.
Watch a video on how to attach plaster corners. Surely, this lesson will help you gather your thoughts before work and understand how and what needs to be done.
Now we need to wait for the plaster to dry - the outer layer must undergo polymerization. And then they start grouting.
It all looks like this:
- The corner is first rubbed on one side, then on the other;
- When moving the grater, the master must ensure that it does not remove material from the edge - after all, in this situation, the occurrence of chips is not excluded. This should not be allowed;
- Using a float and sponge, grout the inner corner. If the plans do not include putty, the plaster can be corrected with regular sandpaper.
Results
The use today of corner overlays for plastering walls significantly facilitates the work of those owners who want to carry out repairs in an apartment or house on their own - without the involvement of professional teams.
Yes, if you have little experience (or none at all), it’s not so easy to design a corner well, so you definitely don’t need to neglect various auxiliary devices. Take action - and everything will definitely work out, experience will come with time and everything will work out perfectly - right the first time!
Tiling requires more than just purchasing ceramic tiles. To get a finished picture and a durable, reliable surface, you need to use other materials. Corners for tiles (also called layout) are also included in their number. With their help, you can hide all styling flaws, decorate corners and protect them from mechanical damage, formation of mold and fungi.
IN Lately tilers do not use tile layouts, preferring a more progressive method - grinding a corner at 45 degrees. Usually, expensive ceramics are laid in a single monolith, so using a corner may not only not decorate it, but also reduce its decorative effect. But the leadership still remains with the tile layout. In some situations, the layout may be the only way out, for example, if steps are being faced or kitchen apron. It is better to protect hazardous external corners in the bathroom plastic corner rather than expose yourself to the danger of hitting a sharp corner formed by a sawn tile.
Corners for tiles are produced by different shapes and flowers. For cladding, it becomes necessary to use external, internal profiles and corners for stairs. Therefore, let’s look at each option in more detail.
Outdoor layout
The most popular of all existing layouts that are used for cladding external corner. The most common sizes are 7,9,11mm, standard length is 2.5m. On one side of the corner there is a groove into which the tiles are inserted, the other plays a decorative role and protects the slabs from mechanical damage. There is perforation on the hidden part - this ensures excellent adhesion of the layout and ceramic tiles. Decorative elements there are:
- plastic;
- aluminum;
- brass.
Corner installation
The installation of profiles for tiles begins after facing one of the walls that form the outer corner. Layout is often done immediately before finishing work. And unforeseen situations contribute to this - either suppliers delayed deliveries, or brought defective products, etc. In such a situation, the tiler must be a professional in his field and perform a more thorough calculation. Due to the slightest inaccuracy, there is a risk of failing the entire job, and then you will definitely have to re-cladding (and this is an additional cost) or put up with the defect and accept everything as is.
Starting facing next wall, on the working side, which is already tiled, a corner groove for the tile is laid. It should be the same size as the tile. If the corner format is smaller, then the tile may simply not fit, and if the corner is large, then much more glue will be needed.
If the tile format is larger and it does not fit into the corner, you can use a grinder to remove the back side - from 3 to 5 cm from the edge.
To secure a tile corner that might slip when tiling the next wall, you can use tape or tile adhesive. We lay the perforated side parallel to the tile, only in this case the perpendicular ceramics will form a dense and even surface. There must be glue in the joints; with voids, the structure has no functional properties. If this is your first time doing this kind of work and you can’t visually determine how much glue is needed, apply more. In this case, it will be better to squeeze out the excess mixture than to allow voids under the tiles.
From this video you can learn in detail about installing the layout in difficult place- slopes and double external angle:
Pruning
If you are planning suspended ceiling, which will overlap the tile, then the layout must be cut to fit the tile. It is better to deal with this right away, so as not to return to this issue later. Separately, I would like to talk about installing corners around the door and window openings. In order for their location to be perpendicular, their edges are cut at 45 degrees. This kind of work must be done extremely carefully, otherwise you will risk the formation of cracks or numerous bends and burrs.
To easily cut the tile layout, you can use a metal blade or grinder. Ideally, use the first option, because in this case you can use a miter box. Without it, getting the right angles will be quite problematic. In general, to obtain precise trimming, you need not only theoretical, but also practical skills, because this matter is quite more complicated than it might seem at first. In some cases, trims will have to be combined, because the horizontal and vertical corners will join in one place. A certain skill is required so that this combination does not disturb the harmony of the cladding and profiles.
Repair
It also happens that the corners under the tiles are outdated, no longer liked, or simply damaged. In this case, they will have to be repaired. The question immediately arises: how to remove the old corner, how to mount a new one? The task is rather complicated, but doable:
- trying not to damage the cladding, remove the old outer profile for the tiles;
- preparing a new one;
- make a cut on the back side of the trim;
- if there is such a need, start leveling the space under the corner, while trying not to affect the space under the tiles;
- glue the new layout using liquid nails or silicone.
Internal layout
These corners are not as popular as their outdoor counterparts. To decorate the outer corners, the tiles are slightly trimmed or decorated with profiles. But the inner corners have no effect on appearance, so their use is not so relevant. But they still have their fans, so we will try to consider them in more detail.
The outer corner is a more complex design, which includes:
- perforated rib;
- facial concave part.
Installation of the internal layout under the tiles is practically no different from the previous external one and begins after facing one of the walls. You can simplify the process if you cut off the back part and attach the corner with silicone.
Installation is much easier because:
- gluing is not difficult;
- installation can be completed after the work has been completed.
Whatever type of corner you use, before starting grouting work you will need to clean the joints between the tiles and the corner from any adhesive residue. WITH plastic profile You need to handle it with special care - it is easily scratched and cut.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with the design options for internal corners:
Corners for facing steps
Whether to use a profile on the stairs is something everyone decides individually. There are two issues involved here. important aspects- aesthetics and durability. Layouts for steps are:
- ordinary, wall-type;
- invoices.
There is no need to talk about the functionality of the former - they are rather used for decorative purposes. But when they are used, the structure ceases to be monolithic; a distance of half a centimeter is formed between the risers and the covering slabs.
This layout protects the joints to a certain extent, but at the same time becomes a reason that reduces the service life of the stairs. Because of them, water can accumulate, which, due to temperature changes, works to destroy the integrity
steps.
The task of overlay profiles is to provide an anti-slip effect, which is why they are often in demand. It is necessary not to forget about one factor during operation - water collecting near the profile is harmful to the cladding. To prevent negative impact water, there is no need to mount the corners as a single sheet. If you lay the layout with small intervals to drain water, the service life of the stairs will be significantly increased.
If the installation of the layout is carried out on steps, then it is necessary to use only metal, no plastic parts.
Other corners
Profiles are used to equip the thresholds and cover the place where dissimilar materials are joined. The most possible various variations, but they all have the same installation method - mechanical, using fastening materials. Installation work are often performed along the edge of the tile, so you should work more carefully to prevent chipping in these places.
There are different steps, especially in private houses there is room for the designer's imagination to run wild. They may have a curved shape, small height. Such a work also needs a layout. Especially for this case, a corner is produced, which has a flat working part and a comb mounting side, thanks to which the profile bends. It is very important not to overdo it - the bend should be light and painless.
Today we have introduced you to different corners for ceramic tiles. Of course, they don’t look very presentable, but they can protect you from injuries in dangerous areas.