Construction is a complex process that requires a lot of knowledge and skills. And if a person is faced with the task of attaching a wooden beam to metal, then for this it is important to find out necessary information. Because this work process is extremely specific and requires at least minimal skill, and even better if the work is done not alone, but with four hands.
Where to start and what to do
To begin with, it is worth deciding on the possible thickness of the metal itself, and selecting it according to its size. necessary tools. It is important to choose high-quality and durable screws, the thickness of which will directly depend on the type of metal sheet. Everything should be as harmonious and correctly selected as possible. Timber size in in this case doesn't play too big a role. In order to attach the beam to the metal, in metal sheet or in any other form, you need to drill required hole, which will correspond to the timber. And after that, install the tree on required height or the correct position and then start installing screws. Regarding screws, you should not spare them, because in this process they are a guarantee of the reliability and strength of the entire structure. If you suddenly lose 
If you are trying to install wood into slate together with metal, for example, then the screws should be replaced with self-tapping screws of the greatest length and volume. Since the work required is quite painstaking, and the timber will have to be held while screwing in the screws, it is worth using the services of some assistant. Because it is almost impossible to cope with this task alone. With four hands everything will go much faster and with a full guarantee of quality.
Is it worth preparing the tree?
If installing wood into metal is necessary for street design, then the tree must be prepared and lubricated with a special solution to ensure that the tree is dry and not exposed to moisture. This way you can ensure that the structure stands for a long time and reliably, and delights you with its beautiful appearance. The type of wood when working with metal does not have special knowledge, the main thing is to choose perfect option according to size and purpose of use.
Wooden beam - practical construction material. Low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, securing the beam to the foundation is not so easy, because wood cannot be glued to concrete or welded to metal. In this article we will talk about how timber is attached to various foundations what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.
Types of foundations for a timber house
Waterproofing
The bottom beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasant-smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron/concrete grillage and beams you need to lay at least 2 layers of roofing material. This is material that falls out due to temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, but the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under and above it. This will protect the wall from dampness and prevent mold and rot.
Which mounting method is better?
When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:
- timber moisture;
- climatic conditions;
- seismic activity;
- the strength of the most frequent winds.
For fastening damp (over 16%) timber to wooden grillage Only shrinkage compensators should be used. All other fastening methods are ineffective.
After all, timber with high and especially natural humidity gives very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten timber with high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing timber on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same fastening method should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in spring and autumn.
In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a bottom beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it on the most rigid fastening (regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach must be applied in those regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting rigid anchorage in seismically active or windy regions will result in the anchorage being exposed to external factors will become loose and the house will begin to rock. Neglecting shrinkage compensators when working with timber of natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains will lead to the appearance of gaps between decorative crown and a foundation or grillage.
All photos from the article
During the construction process, there is often a need for fastening wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, you need to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.
Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to carry out installation yourself; this article will be devoted to this issue.
What you should know about this type of work
Before you begin installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances, which will ensure the highest reliability:
| Properties of wood | Don't forget that this material may expand due to changes in temperature and humidity, so be sure to leave a gap to compensate for linear changes in size. This will avoid a lot of troubles in the future and eliminate unpleasant surprises in the form of cracks in the final finish. |
| Adequate structural protection | To ensure that structures last as long as possible, be sure to treat them before installation. special composition, which will protect the material from mold and pests, and also significantly reduce the likelihood of fire. It is better to use hard-to-wash options that penetrate deeply into the structure |
| Use of quality materials | It is not recommended to use wood with high humidity, since after installation the elements may move, which will violate the geometry of the structure. In addition, when dried in improper conditions, cracks may form on the surface, which reduces the reliability of structures. |
| Choosing the right mounting method | May be suitable for different situations various options carrying out work, there is no universal solution, so you should understand the pros and cons of one method or another. This will allow you to select the optimal fastener |
Important!
Sometimes you have to start from the existing situation when the walls are built, but even in such cases it is possible to achieve excellent result works
You should not save money and choose the most reliable ones.
Overview of the main mounting options
The choice of one solution or another depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many methods, we will look at the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.
Concrete and brick
It all depends on what elements need to be installed:
- Fastening wooden beam To concrete wall carried out using quick installation dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: into holes at a certain distance, the diameter of which should be equal to size fasteners, holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall; for reliability, the length of the element in the wall should be twice the thickness of the block.
Important!
If thickness metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, it is recommended to first make holes using a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.
Aerated concrete
This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:
- Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them you need to read the recommendations given in the instructions on the package, it will indicate which drill and how deep the hole should be made and which screws to use for fixing. This is the simplest and quick option, and the photo below shows some configurations of products of this type.
- For more massive structures, it is recommended to use metal fasteners, they have teeth, which when tightening the self-tapping screw required diameter diverge and cut into aerated concrete, providing the highest reliability.
- If fastening is carried out wooden stairs to an aerated concrete floor, additional reinforcement may be required using a threaded rod, which goes all the way through and ensures the highest reliability.
Drywall
Let us immediately note that heavy structures cannot be attached to this material, but small elements can be fixed very securely using the following products:
- The “driva” dowel is a unit with or without a drill at the end; the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
- Dowel "butterfly" is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it expands from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but it is very convenient to carry out the work.
Conclusion
The video in this article will tell you Additional information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that compliance simple recommendations and the use of high-quality fasteners are the main components of reliable connections.
Under reliable protection
So that wooden structures and under open air maintained their stability for a long time, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.
Rain and wind won't matter!
As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur unnoticed. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners’ heads. Moreover, rotten wood and rusted metal parts over time can become a threat to the stability of the entire building.
Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from exposure to moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying special coatings to steel parts. Some of them, such as chromium, combine with steel chemical reaction, others form a film on the surface of the metal, including from a special powder.
When working with wood, in addition to weatherproof impregnation, the most the best remedy from rotting is constructive protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.
Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.
For dark types of wood, blackened screws can also be used, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.
Screws from of stainless steel – the best choice when constructing a structure that will be located in the open air.
Formatted screws(1) are used primarily for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, you use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture and become visible through the paint layer. But with the blacks, phosphated screws this won't happen. Chrome/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by its yellowish color. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Stainless steel screws and bolts(4) – twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.
The phrase “high-quality steel” does not say anything about the resistance of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. Only through special processing or the addition of other metals does steel become corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods for protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.
The degree of anti-corrosion protection that each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one or another method. High-quality stainless steel fasteners are the most expensive, but they certainly won’t have any problems with corrosion.
Most a budget option- parts made of galvanized steel. But if you want to prevent these parts from rusting, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. Chrome plating is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.
1. Chrome plated
When chrome plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are dipped in chromic acid, as a result of which a chrome film is formed on the products. She gives very good protection from corrosion of screws and other fasteners, which remains, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products color scheme well suited to wood used outdoors.
2. Galvanized
When galvanizing steel becomes protective layer made of zinc. During hot-dip galvanizing, parts are immersed in a bath of zinc heated to +450°C. When galvanizing, zinc is applied to the part.
in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.
3. Stainless steel
High-quality stainless steel refers to types of steel that, due to the addition of chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium, become completely resistant to corrosion under normal atmospheric influences. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces They are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, so some manufacturers subject their fasteners to special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that products
made of stainless steel are not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high-alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance, stainless steel requires regular washing. metal products warm water with surfactants.
4. Powder coated
Before applying the powder-varnish coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in an oven at temperatures above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.
This way the supports will last a long time!
Drive-in bases: they do not require concrete
During construction wooden structures, which will have to be located in the open air, it is very important that the tree does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pier bases are the easiest and most inexpensive means of installing piers stably and keeping them dry. On such supports you can install a lightweight structure made of wood or using frame technology.
When driving bases into the ground, you should use special tools: plastic mallet and plastic plug, inserted inside the cartridge, it is on it that blows should be struck. If you hit the metal directly with an ordinary hammer, you can damage the upper part of the product.
For optimal protection against moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with a protective glaze. The holes drilled for fastening must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. Protective covering must be completely dry before installation can begin.
Here are two types anchors For wooden supports, installed on concrete foundation and protected from moisture. The H-shaped anchor is suitable for supports of various sizes. The lower third of the anchor is filled with concrete. Those who find anchoring with a classic U-shaped anchor too noticeable can install the supports with virtually invisible anchors with a support shoe. A notch is made in the middle of the support, holes for fastening bolts are marked in the support, the support is put on the central panel of the anchor and secured with bolts. Then the support is concreted.
Supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be lightly dug up, cut down, and the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a block of suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability; it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.
PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES
Caps
To rainwater does not damage the tree, special caps are placed on top of the support, the top is sawed off at an angle or rounded off.
This will make your floors last longer.
Structural protection of wood is especially important when installing floors on outdoor terraces.
It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope in one direction - this way the water will drain from the terrace by itself.
The other two are simple, but effective techniques We illustrated with drawings.
Correct: the head of the screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hard wood, so you should always pre-drill holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is dented. In the first case, you can get injured by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the self-tapping screw and water collects.
A simple pommel made of galvanized steel can be bought for 140 rubles. in a construction supermarket.
The pommel, made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, costs almost 400 rubles.
Plastic tops are intended for children's furniture or playground structures. They protect the tree from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rub.
The upper part of the support without a top needs to be either rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.
You can purchase a pole top made of wood.