We build a bathhouse with our own hands from foam blocks - the secrets of modern construction. Bathhouse made of foam blocks: reviews from owners, advantages and disadvantages Construction of a bathhouse at home from foam blocks

A cheaper alternative to capital brick bath or a building made of rounded logs is a bathhouse made of foam blocks. Foam block has proven itself very well as a heat-intensive, inexpensive masonry material. Next, we will look at the other advantages of foam blocks, and also provide you with useful tips on how to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands!

• Article
• Video

Advantages of foam blocks for the construction of a bathhouse

Foam blocks are large-sized blocks (compared to size) made from cellular concrete(foaming + cement mortar). Today there are many manufacturers of foam blocks, and the material itself is available on any construction market.

The advantages of foam block are as follows:

• Foam blocks have large dimensions and low weight, which has a positive effect on the labor intensity of work when transporting material and building a bathhouse from foam blocks.
• The material has excellent heat capacity (it holds heat several times better than brick)
• Foam block has a relatively low cost
• Cellular concrete has high strength and durability
• Even an inexperienced summer resident can build a bathhouse from foam blocks (which cannot be said about)
• In order to cut off part of the foam block, you can use a hacksaw (or even a sharp knife)
• Fire resistant material

It should also be noted that the foam block has several significant disadvantages, which spoil the popularity of the material:

• The foam block is not able to withstand heavy loads, therefore of this material It is recommended to build a maximum of 2-3 storey buildings
• Cellular concrete absorbs moisture well, which is why the foam block is a sponge and requires additional measures to waterproof the bathhouse

Despite the fact that a bathhouse made of foam blocks has two significant drawbacks, they can be easily refuted. Firstly, a bathhouse in a country house can be a maximum of 2-story building, so a foam block can easily withstand the weight of such a structure. Secondly, any bathhouse requires additional measures for waterproofing, besides, all that is needed is to treat the foam block with special hydrophobic impregnations on the outside and cover it with foil material with inside the buildings.

Before you proceed directly to building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, we will provide you with the technology for calculating the required number of foam blocks.

Calculation of a bath made of foam blocks

Before you start building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you need to create a bathhouse project, as well as create an estimate for building materials.

As for the bathhouse project, you can familiarize yourself with it in the article: do it yourself. Not only bathhouse designs, but also the construction technology itself in in this case similar.

Now let's move on to calculating a bathhouse made of foam blocks. In order not to encounter a situation where you lack about 10 blocks before the end of construction of the bathhouse, or there are more than 50 blocks left after construction, you need to correctly calculate the bathhouse made of foam blocks.

To do this, it is necessary to divide the calculation technology into 3 groups. First group – load-bearing walls, their thickness will be equal to 2 blocks laid on an edge. The dimensions of the blocks in this case should be 200*300*600 mm. Second group - interior walls baths made of foam blocks, which are laid flat in one row. In this case, block sizes must be used similar to the first. Not the last, third group - which also need to be laid out flat in one row, but only from blocks measuring 100*300*600 mm.

We have decided on the classification of groups, now let’s consider the very essence of calculating a bathhouse made of foam blocks. Each block has its own volume (width times height and length). By simple calculations you can determine the volume of each wall of the bathhouse (the formula is similar). After this, calculate the volume that the windows and doors in the bathhouse will occupy (the formula is again the same). Well, in the end, it is necessary to subtract the volume of doors and windows from the total volume of the walls and divide the resulting result by the volume of one block. It will work out required amount blocks for building a bathhouse. As with any calculations, when calculating a bathhouse made of foam blocks, there is always an error of 5%. Also, about 5% of foam blocks can be destroyed during transportation (you can find out the exact % from the manufacturer or seller). That is why you need to add another 10% to the final result of the number of blocks, this will be the number of foam blocks that you will need to build a bathhouse with your own hands.

In addition to foam blocks, you will also need building materials such as:

• Cement
• Sand
• Concrete
• Reinforcement bars, 12 mm thick
• Knitting wire
• Lumber
• Sewer pipes
• Fastening elements (nails, screws, metal corners etc.)
• Corrugated sheet
• Brick
• Materials for insulation, steam and waterproofing of baths
• Windows and doors
• Finishing materials (, etc.)
• Electrical wiring and lighting
• Polyurethane foam

This is the minimum of the materials needed to create a bathhouse with your own hands. Based on superficial calculations, the construction of a bathhouse made of foam blocks measuring 6*3 meters will require about 120,000 rubles (including the delivery of materials).

Now let’s look at the technology for building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands

How to build a bathhouse from foam blocks?

General information

In this article we will not consider in detail each stage of the construction of a bathhouse made of foam blocks, because The stages of creating any bathhouse have already been fully discussed separately.

As we have already said, the technology of building a bathhouse from foam blocks has much in common with the technology of building a bathhouse from expanded clay concrete, the only difference is in the features of laying the foam block, which we will discuss below.

To familiarize yourself in detail with each stage of building a bathhouse, we recommend that you read the following articles:

Now we’ll talk in more detail about how to lay foam blocks when building a bathhouse with your own hands.

Laying foam blocks

It should be noted that today there are several main sizes of foam blocks, but for the construction of a bathhouse it is recommended to use a block with dimensions of 200*300*600 mm and a density of D700.

So, the laying of foam blocks must be done on edge, while the first row of blocks must be laid not with cement-sand mortar, but the remaining rows with a special adhesive mixture. Please note that the seams between the blocks should be thin - 5 mm, because... large seams will worsen the heat capacity of the building (a so-called cold bridge is formed).

Every fourth row of foam block masonry must be additionally reinforced with fine-mesh metal mesh.

It should be noted that when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, experts advise using not a construction level, but a laser level, which has higher accuracy.

We also draw your attention to the fact that it is recommended to apply the adhesive mixture to the foam block with a special trowel, and lay the block using a rubber hammer.

Although the structure of the foam block differs from the gas block, the technology for laying the materials is absolutely the same, so you can see the entire process of building a bathhouse in this video lesson:

Video tutorial on building a bathhouse from blocks

Well, the last thing I wanted to tell you is tips for building a bathhouse from foam blocks.

What should you pay attention to?

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks, many questions may arise, such as: “Which foundation is best suited?”, “How to insulate the bathhouse?”, “What material to use for lining the bathhouse inside and out?”, so now we will briefly tell you about how to properly build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands.

The most suitable foundation for building a bathhouse made of foam blocks is a strip foundation, which should be located at a depth of about 60 cm. Width strip foundation should be 30 cm.

There is no point in insulating a foam block bath from the outside, but it is recommended to insulate the bath from the inside mineral wool.

Wood has been and remains the traditional material for building a bathhouse. However, the cost of a log house seems to be quite high these days, so more and more often owners suburban areas resort to the use of alternative building materials. Foam blocks are one such example. Subject to simple rules, which will be discussed further, you can build such a bathhouse from a foam block with your own hands according to established projects.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks at the dacha: advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of foam concrete blocks:

• High speed of construction;
• During operation, the building does not shrink;
• Suitable for construction on very small plots;
• Opportunity self-construction baths without the involvement of professional builders;
• The premises can be used immediately after completion of the work;
• High fire resistance compared to wooden buildings;
• The relatively low mass of the bathhouse, which makes it possible to avoid the use of powerful foundations and makes it possible to build on difficult soils;
• Ease of transportation. If desired, foam blocks can be transported even in a passenger car;
• Relatively low cost of work.

It won’t take much time to build such a bathhouse.

However, a bathhouse made of foam blocks also has a number of disadvantages:

• During operation, condensation will accumulate, which without a well-equipped ventilation system will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.
• When condensate freezes, structural destruction may occur.
• The need for work on additional insulation and waterproofing.
• Relatively low environmental friendliness compared to buildings made of wood.
• Formation of “cold bridges” due to poor quality finishing.
• Shorter service life compared to brick and wooden baths.

Building a foundation with your own hands

A bathhouse in a country house is a capital structure, so it is impossible to do without a reliable foundation. Let's look at how to do this with step-by-step instructions.

Which is better

The best option– shallow strip foundation. You can, of course, use monolithic slab, and a pile foundation, but in this case it will simply be a waste of money.

How to choose the right type of foundation:

How to build

Required tool:

• concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
• welding inverter;
• hammer;
• bayonet shovel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• angle grinder (“grinder”);
• Master OK;
• hacksaw;
• rule;
• axe.

Example of a project with an attic and dimensions

You will also need Consumables: cutting wheels, electrodes (1.8 mm), nails (60–80 mm).

How to build a foundation: step by step

The foundation installation process step by step:

1. Clear the area of ​​everything unnecessary, level it, mark the perimeter of the bathhouse using wooden stakes.
2. Dig a pit around the entire perimeter of the future bathhouse, 50–60 cm deep and 30–35 cm wide.
3. Stick steel pins (reinforcement) into the corners of the foundation and tie a thick thread to them.
4. Using a level, accurately mark the upper horizontal line of the foundation (the thread will serve as a visual boundary).
5. Manufacture and weld a steel frame from reinforcement with a diameter of 10–12 mm. It will be enough to place three rows of reinforcement at the top and bottom so that the total height of the foundation is 70 cm. For vertical elements, thinner reinforcement can be used, the step between them should be 1.5 m.
6. Put together formwork from boards 25 cm wide around the entire perimeter. In the washing room, provide a hole for the sewer drain in advance by placing a receiving pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
7. Prepare concrete mortar by mixing cement with OPGS in a ratio of 1 to 4.
8. Pour the solution into the formwork, align the top edge using the rule according to the level of the tensioned thread.
9. Cover the foundation with a tarpaulin or thick burlap, take a break from working until the concrete has completely dried (14–21 days, depending on weather conditions).

A beautiful and elegant building that will decorate your site

Construction of foam block walls

The process of constructing walls from blocks is no different from similar actions when using ordinary bricks. However, due to the fact that the dimensions of the foam blocks are larger, the work goes faster. Best option for the construction of walls - M25 blocks.

What types there are are indicated in this article.

What the design of a bathhouse and a utility block garage looks like is detailed in.

The article indicates projects of bathhouses made of timber with an attic, as well as the technology for their construction:

Features of masonry

No matter how well the foundation is leveled, its upper edge will still have some roughness.

To correct this drawback, the first row of walls is laid out using cement-sand mortar, and all subsequent rows are formed using special glue for foam blocks.

Before work on the foundation in mandatory lay 2–3 layers of rolled waterproofing.
You will need the following tool:

• Master OK;
• rubber hammer;
• building level for walls;
• putty knife;
• electric drill with a whisk attachment.

Laying begins from the highest corner of the base, the blocks are laid on the edge, the seams are made as thin as possible.

After the row is formed, the horizontalness is carefully checked using a building level; if necessary, the blocks are leveled by knocking them with a rubber hammer. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid every 2–3 rows. About the extension to wooden tree from foam blocks read.

Before use, the adhesive mixture for foam blocks is stirred with a whisk for 10 minutes. The glue is applied to the surface of the block in a layer of no more than 5 mm. Wait until completely dry glue mixture not necessary. During the work, check the horizontality and verticality of each row of blocks. In openings for doors and windows, blocks are laid on steel beams appropriate sizes. But what they are can be seen in this article.

Bathhouse with attic:

Seam processing

Seams are the most weakness in the construction of a bathhouse made of foam blocks. To avoid heat leaks during operation, only use adhesive composition, and not ordinary cement mortar. Read about the pros and cons of a house made of foam blocks.

After completing the construction of the walls, all seams are additionally treated with glue. To apply it, use a narrow spatula.

How to make a vapor barrier on walls

Foam blocks absorb moisture very well, so installing a vapor barrier on the walls is mandatory. First, foam blocks with internal and outside treated with water-repellent compounds. Then the insulation is attached inside. The best option is basalt or stone wool, since it does not absorb moisture well.

For mineral wool, a special frame is made from wooden beams, soaked in antiseptic. The spacing of the beams and their diameter depends on the size thermal insulation material, dowels are used as fasteners. Then on wooden frame fix the finishing finishing material, for example, lining or decorative facing slabs.

The insulation is laid in 2 layers to avoid through joints. For vapor barrier, special film membranes are used, and the joints are covered with reflective tape. As additional vapor and thermal insulation, you can use foil penofol, securing it on top of the vapor barrier film.

Roof

The roof of the bathhouse must not only be reliable, but also withstand steam shock from the inside

Gable rafter roof– the best choice for a bathhouse made of foam blocks. The roof is installed after the laying of the stove and chimney is completed.

Roof installation sequence:

1. Place a mauerlat - a beam with a cross-section of at least 180 mm - on the longitudinal walls. Secure it with anchor bolts.
2. Make a rafter template: take 2 boards, connect them with the edges to form a kind of “scissors”, nail them.
3. Place the free ends of the rafters on the mauerlat, select the desired angle of the slope and fix it by attaching the transverse board with self-tapping screws.
4. Take beams 150x500 mm, attach them to the template, make the necessary markings and cut the rafters.
5. Fasten the rafters with self-tapping screws (3 pieces for each connection).
6. Raise the rafters to the edge of the bathhouse, mark the places where they join the Mauerlat.
7. Hem the junctions of the rafters and the mauerlat so that they fit tightly together.
8. Connect the rafters and the mauerlat using steel angles, staples, overlays and self-tapping screws.
9. Make rafters for the opposite end of the roof using a similar pattern and secure them.
10. Pull the cord between the two installed rafters, secure their trusses with oblique supports.
11. Cut the remaining trusses and fasten them in increments of 500 mm strictly along the stretched cord.
12. Take 100x400 mm boards and secure them with self-tapping screws or nails as roof sheathing at a pitch suitable for subsequent fastening of the insulation.
13. Make a rough ceiling from 25 mm thick boards, securing them between the rafters.
14. Lay 190 mm thick foam on top.
15. Lay the finished attic floor from boards 20–25 mm thick.
16. Lay down roofing material(corrugated sheeting or metal tiles).
17. Secure the ridge and make a galvanized collar around the pipe.

Do not forget about the ventilation equipment for the interior of the bathhouse, for which leave 2 holes with a diameter of 100 mm at opposite ends of the floor. The gap between the rafter leg and the chimney must be at least 400 mm.

The last stage of the construction of walls and reinforced belt for the bath:

External and internal finishing

Selection of finishing material finishing works depends on financial capabilities and taste preferences. Usually, the outside walls are simply plastered in 2 layers with a total thickness of 10–15 mm and covered with siding or simply painted with water-repellent paint, having previously been puttied and covered with a primer. We recommend material about.

How to decorate a bathhouse inside:

Sometimes the inside of a foam block bathhouse is also plastered and covered facing tiles. But this is a more expensive and not entirely aesthetically advantageous method, and it is also quite labor-intensive. Check out our article about.

A foam concrete bathhouse is a compromise option when finances and space on the site for the construction of a full-fledged building made of logs or timber are not enough, and the desire to take a steam bath in own sauna great. Read also about, and.

Today, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build baths not from expensive timber or logs, but from cheaper foam blocks. This material has simply wonderful performance characteristics and is also quite easy to install.

The feasibility of using foam blocks

Baths made from this material are actually usually very inexpensive. In addition, foam blocks have almost all the same advantages as wood: they allow air to pass through (“breathe”), are very easy to cut, and are not too heavy. Their advantage, compared to timber and logs, is that they do not burn at all and do not rot. The disadvantages of walls made of this material include the fact that it is capable of absorbing moisture, while gradually collapsing. Therefore, projects for bathhouses made of foam blocks must be developed taking into account the characteristics of this material, in particular its hygroscopicity.

According to SNiP standards, it is prohibited to build baths from foamed cement. However, these rules were invented quite a long time ago. Since then, a huge number of materials with truly unique properties. Foam concrete also belongs to them. In addition, SNiP standards were developed mainly in relation to public baths. Of course, in this case the rules must be very strict. A small country bathhouse made of foam blocks can become a very convenient and quite durable structure. But of course, only if all rules and construction technologies are observed.

Advantages of a foam block bath

In addition to being cheap and having a rather pleasant microclimate, the advantages of such structures include environmental safety. When heated, foam blocks do not emit any harmful substances. In addition, they retain heat very well, meaning you will have to heat the bathhouse no more than once on a wash day. Since the foam block is not flammable, you do not have to comply with any special standards when installing the heater.

And of course, the undoubted advantage of this material is its ease of installation. Assembling a bathhouse from a log or timber is a rather labor-intensive task and at the same time technologically complex. Not everyone has experience in constructing such structures in our time. Post it block walls Probably any owner of a suburban area can do it.

Bathhouse designs made from foam blocks can be anything, that is, the owners of the site have the opportunity to choose the layout of this structure at their discretion. The material is easy to cut even with a regular hacksaw.

Disadvantages of foam block baths

The disadvantages of a bathhouse made of foam blocks are, first of all, dampness and destruction of the walls; in particular, saturating the blocks with water is dangerous in the winter. In a heated bath, vapors easily penetrate into the porous material. After the steam room cools, the water freezes and, expanding, simply breaks the concrete. Therefore, when building baths from foam blocks, you should take special measures for waterproofing walls. In addition, the building will also have to be insulated. In this case, the walls will take longer to cool, and therefore, even if water gets into the material, it may have time to dry before freezing. In addition, much less condensation collects on insulated walls.

Of course, all these tricks: waterproofing, insulation, ventilation - will cost the owner of the bathhouse a pretty penny. Therefore, structures for this purpose made of foam blocks are usually built only in steppe regions, that is, where it is difficult to obtain wood or it is very expensive. In forested areas of the country, it may be more advisable to build wooden sauna. Most likely, it will not cost much more than paving stones.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: price

The cost of such a structure will depend, of course, primarily on the layout and size. A wall foam block 60x30x20 costs about 2,500 rubles per cubic meter. A small 3x4 meters with one partition and a ceiling height of 2 m will take a little more than 6 m 3. That is, the construction of the actual walls will cost about 16-20 thousand rubles. In this case, you will need about 5 m 3 of mineral wool. It will cost about another 8 thousand rubles. About 2000 rubles will be spent on the glue solution. Thus, the walls of a small bathhouse made of foam blocks, at a rough estimate, will cost about 30 thousand rubles. Of course, to this amount you will need to add the cost of the foundation, lumber for the floor, ceiling and roof, waterproofing and lining.

A large 6x4 bathhouse made of foam block will, of course, cost more. At such structures Lately It has become very fashionable to build attics. This is, of course, very convenient and allows you to save space on the site, but of course, it will additionally increase the cost of the structure. The walls and partitions of a standard 6x4 m bath will require about 11 m 3 blocks.

Construction of foundation and walls

Building a bathhouse from foam blocks is a simple procedure. Such a structure is erected in approximately the same way as a brick one. The difference is that the seams in the masonry of foam blocks are very thin, and special glue is used as a solution to hold the blocks together. During construction even small bathhouse It is advisable to reinforce walls from this material. To do this, in every fourth row, metal rods are placed in gutters cut out with a grinder. An armored belt must also be placed on top of the masonry.

It is recommended to make the foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks strip and quite powerful. All foam materials are fragile. And therefore, even with small movements of the soil, walls made of them can crack. For the same reason, blocks should be laid as evenly as possible, using piers, plumb lines and a level.

from foam block

To prevent the walls from being saturated with water from below from the ground, it is worth installing special floors in such a structure. They need to be made concrete and slightly inclined towards the center. In this case, a receiving tray and a plastic drain are installed in the middle of the bath. The pipes should be laid underground below the freezing level and extended to the septic tank.

In order to extend the service life of concrete floors, they should be covered with tiled rough tiles. The base itself should be treated with penetrating waterproofing before laying it. On top of the tiles, special ones are usually installed in the future. wooden gratings. After acceptance water procedures they can be taken outside and dried.

Foundation waterproofing

This operation must be performed. In this case, you will get a durable bathhouse made of foam blocks. Reviews from owners about such buildings are not bad, but only if they are waterproofed according to all the rules. For the foundation of a bathhouse, both vertical and horizontal waterproofing are usually used. When installing the tape at the bottom of the pit, be sure to pour a sufficiently thick layer of sand. After the foundation concrete has gained sufficient strength, its top is glued with two layers of roofing felt.

The walls of the base of the bathhouse must be protected from moisture both outside and inside. In this case, you can also use roofing material. Penetrating agents are also considered a very good solution for waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse. Sometimes the walls of the base are coated bitumen mastic in two layers.

Waterproofing walls

To protect the enclosing structures of the bathhouse from moisture, it is best to use foil vapor barriers. You can take special isospan or penofol. Today on the market there are foil materials designed specifically for baths. The waterproofing is secured to the wall with beams. The joints should be additionally nailed and taped on top with metallized tape. The lining is subsequently attached to the beams.

The ceiling of the bathhouse is usually made of boards. You can protect it from moisture by using impregnating waterproofing designed specifically for wood. A bathhouse with a foam block attic is very comfortable. However, when choosing just such a project, you should keep in mind that in this case, most likely, the roof will also have to be waterproofed from the inside. In the attics of baths, the microclimate is usually quite humid.

Bath insulation

Next, let's see how to use foam blocks. A structure made of this material can be insulated from the cold using both expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. The latter material is considered more preferable. The fact is that polystyrene foam does not allow air to pass through very well. When using it, the walls of the bathhouse will not “breathe”. Insulation should be carried out exclusively from the outside. The fact is that when sheathing from the inside, the so-called one moves inside the walls, and they begin to become damp.

How is a bathhouse made of foam blocks insulated? Reviews from owners about such structures are only good if this operation is carried out correctly. Foam block wall insulation technology usually includes the following steps:

1. The walls are covered with timber lathing.
2. Insulation is installed between its elements. Cotton wool can be installed simply by surprise. Expanded polystyrene should be additionally secured with mushroom dowels.
3. The frame with insulation is covered with waterproofing material.
4. Installed external cladding. It can be a lining, a block house, etc. Bathhouses made of foam blocks, lined with façade, look very nice vinyl siding imitating stone.

You can also cover the walls of the bathhouse with very dense mineral wool with additional fastenings - “fungi”, and then finish it using decorative plaster.

How to arrange ventilation in a bathhouse

Thus, you now know how to build a bathhouse from foam blocks, as well as insulate and waterproof it. Next, let's figure out how to make ventilation in this structure. The foam block bathhouse must be ventilated. Ventilation in the bathhouse is arranged as follows:

1. In the immediate vicinity of the stove, at a height of no more than 30 cm from the floor, a supply hole is made in the wall. Sometimes it is also done in the foundation of a bathhouse. In the latter case, a hole (with a valve) should be made in the floor.
2. An exhaust hole is hollowed out in the opposite wall at the top. A valve is installed on it. If opposite wall does not go out onto the street, the exhaust hole should be made in the same wall as the supply hole, but from above and in the opposite corner. In the latter case, an exhaust fan should be used to ensure good air flow.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: reviews from owners

The owners of suburban areas have a very good opinion about buildings of this type. The owners of bathhouses made of foam blocks note, first of all, that they retain heat very well. In addition, such buildings do not require any special care: treatments with anti-rot compounds, caulking, etc.

Of course good feedback foam block baths deserve their low cost. Almost anyone can build such a structure on their site. If you line the inside of a foam block bathhouse with linden clapboard, it will smell like a real wooden one. The same applies to the benefits of taking water procedures. In addition, in a bathhouse made of foam blocks, judging by the reviews of the owners, the smell of dampness never appears. The outside of such a bathhouse can be covered with a block house, and then it will look quite traditional.

As you can see, if all the required technologies are strictly followed, a very good bathhouse can be built from foam blocks. Reviews from owners about such structures are mostly good. But only if ventilation is provided in the bathhouse, and its walls are well insulated and waterproofed.

A bathhouse made of foam blocks is considered not a very successful idea due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. Foam concrete quickly absorbs moisture like a sponge, and there is a lot of it during bathing. However, if you draw up the project correctly, providing for reliable waterproofing of all structural elements, foam blocks will make a good warm bath.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: pros and cons

Ordering a turnkey bathhouse made of foam blocks is always profitable due to the budget cost. Construction will be much cheaper compared to a similar structure made of timber, logs or bricks. There are a number of other advantages that push the owner to have such a bathhouse:

1. Compared to some types of wood, foam block has superior thermal conductivity. For pine, the figure is 0.18 W/m o C. The thermal conductivity of the foam block at a humidity of 8% reaches 0.16 W/m o C.
2. The pores of foam concrete saturated with water quickly release moisture, but under the condition of dry sunny weather.
3. Foam block withstands impact open source fire for up to 4 hours.
4. In terms of sound insulation, foam concrete outperforms wood.
5. The speed of construction is increased due to the lightness and large size of the blocks.
6. The low price of the material is reflected in the total cost of the finished bath.

Foam blocks also have many disadvantages, and you need to know them:

1. The foam block wins in thermal conductivity, but the indicator is non-uniform due to different sizes air bubbles.
2. Increased water absorption is the main disadvantage of the material. When building bathhouse walls, it is required to resort to enhanced waterproofing measures.
3. Frost resistance is weak. The densest foam concrete can withstand up to 35 freeze-thaw cycles.
4. The tightness of masonry joints is ensured only by glue, the cost of which is higher than that of ordinary cement mortar.
5. Due to increased water absorption, fungus quickly develops in the pores of foam concrete. Rodents do not eat foam blocks, but gnawing a hole will not be a problem for them.

The foam block has almost the same number of positive and negative qualities. It is up to the owner to decide whether to build a bathhouse out of it or not.

Is it possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks?

There are no special prohibitions for building a foam concrete bathhouse on your site. All the shortcomings of the material can be neutralized if you approach the issue responsibly reliable waterproofing and impregnation of walls with solutions against fungus. Foam blocks do not burn, which is important when placing a bathhouse near a residential building. Light large blocks can be laid by one person. There is no need to hire workers to build a bathhouse.

Important! On average, a foam block bathhouse will last up to 15 years.

The owner needs to decide whether this time is enough, despite the low cost of construction.

What is better: gas block or foam block for a bath?

Inexperienced builders often confuse foam block with gas block. They are similar in appearance, but have different characteristics.

The gas block consists of closed pores up to 3 mm in size. In the manufacture of the material, cement is used as the main binder. Additives include sand, a choice of gypsum or lime. The pores are obtained due to aluminum gas generators. In terms of processing, a gas block can be compared to wood. The blocks can be easily sawed with a hacksaw and can be drilled.

The internal structure of the foam block is similar, only the pore size is slightly increased. Another difference is the composition. When making foam concrete, gypsum, aluminum gas former and lime are not used. A gasifier, which can be synthetic or organic, is added to sand and cement.

The table shows the performance characteristics of the materials. Aerated concrete wins in all respects except water absorption. This factor is important for the construction of a bathhouse. Experts advise in cold regions to give preference to gas blocks, but to take measures for enhanced waterproofing. For warm areas It is preferable to build a bathhouse with foam blocks.

In the video they decide on the choice of foam or gas blocks for building a bathhouse:

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: photo

A review of bathhouses made of foam blocks, projects, photos will help you decide on the type of construction and visually represent the construction process.

Foam block bath projects

Ready-made bathhouse projects made from foam blocks with a layout are convenient to use in private construction. The owner can change some details at his own discretion, but in general everything is thought out extremely conveniently.

Project of a 6 by 6 bathhouse made of foam blocks

A successful project for construction on a medium-sized plot. The bathhouse has a spacious steam room with an area of ​​5.3 m2 and a large room rest – 11.2 m2. According to the design, the stove is located with the firebox exiting into the rest room, which allows for uniform heating of all rooms of the bathhouse.

Project of a 6x4 bathhouse made of foam blocks

A good project for a bathhouse made of foam blocks for small plot is based on the construction of a building measuring 6x4 m. Inside you can organize 3 or 4 rooms. The stove has an exit from the firebox to the dressing room of the bathhouse. If desired, a porch is provided at the entrance. An example of such a bathhouse project is shown in the first photo.

Project of a 5x4 bathhouse made of foam blocks

On a plot of 8 acres, it is beneficial to build a bathhouse measuring 4x5 m with a large, spacious attic. The access from the street side is organized using stairs. The project provides a relaxation room 2x4 m, a steam room 2x2 m and a washing compartment 2x3 m. According to the project, one bathhouse room measuring 1x2 m is allocated for a utility block. The entrance is from the yard.

Project of a 4 by 4 bathhouse made of foam blocks

Construction of a small bathhouse is the only solution if there is limited space. The project provides for a compact structure of 4x4 m. Inside the bathhouse there are 3 most necessary compartments: a steam room, a washing room and a relaxation room.

Advice! To increase the number of rooms, the bathhouse project will be improved with a second floor.

Bathhouse 3 by 3 made of foam blocks

The mini-bath project is popular with owners summer cottages. The construction of a 3x3 m building allows you to organize only 2 rooms inside. According to the design, the washing compartment is connected to the steam room. Only the relaxation room remains separate in the bathhouse. Often such projects are improved with a second floor, where I create 1 or 2 additional rooms.

Project of a two-story bathhouse made of foam blocks

When developing a project two-story bathhouse It is optimal to give preference to a building measuring 6x6 m. The area can be reduced or increased to 3 m 2. On the second floor of the bathhouse, the design usually includes 2 or 3 rooms.

More often top floor allocated to bedrooms and extra room recreation. A special feature of the project is that there is no need for enhanced insulation of the second floor of the bathhouse. The rooms will be warm from the rising steam.

Important! The design of two-story baths requires the organization of effective ventilation.

Projects for bathhouses made of foam blocks with an attic

The project with an attic similarly involves the construction of a second floor in the bathhouse. They take him to a spacious recreation room with a billiards table. The space can be divided by partitions, organizing bedrooms and a room with a hookah.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks: step-by-step construction

They begin to build a foam block bathhouse with their own hands by laying the foundation. The next step The organization of drainage, the removal of walls, and the construction of a roof are underway. The finishing touch is internal and external finishing baths

Foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks

Most foam block bath projects are based on the construction of a strip foundation. On the base it is convenient to remove walls from foam blocks.

Attention! At a high position groundwater preference is given to a grillage foundation or a base made of a monolithic slab.

On dense, stable soil, you can get by with a shallow concrete strip. On loose soil, the project calls for deepening the foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks with your own hands below the freezing point.

The base for the bath can be made of two types:

• pour a monolithic concrete strip;
• lay out from ready-made concrete blocks.

In the second option, construction is simplified, but it is necessary to organize access for lifting equipment for laying blocks.

The thickness of the tape is made taking into account the width of the foam blocks. The edges of the foundation should protrude beyond the walls of the bathhouse. For thickness concrete tape A trench 50 cm wide is dug 30 cm. The total height of the base is about 80 cm, of which 20 cm protrudes above ground level.

The construction of the base of the bathhouse consists of the following steps:

1. The area is leveled and cleared of vegetation and debris. Markings are made from pegs and cord.
2. The trench is dug to the required depth. If you take average When the soil freezes in most regions, the hole is deepened to 80 cm.
3. A cushion of sand and crushed stone or gravel is poured onto the bottom of the trench. The total thickness of the two components does not exceed 20 cm. The pillow is watered from a hose with water, and after the liquid is absorbed, it is compacted.
4. Formwork is placed along the perimeter of the trench. The shields must protrude at least 20 cm above ground level.
5. Inside the trench, a box-shaped reinforced frame is knitted from rods. Reinforcement is used with a thickness of 12 mm. Optimal size frame cells – 15x15 cm.
6. Concrete with gravel or crushed stone is poured at a time with breaks of a maximum of 3 hours. The mixture is compacted with a vibrator or pierced with a rod to allow air to escape.
7. The foundation of the bathhouse is covered with film and moistened daily. After three days, the formwork is removed, and the tape is given at least a month to completely harden.

Important! If the project involves the construction of a pouring floor inside the bathhouse, then ventilation windows - vents - are made in the concrete strip.

After the foundation hardens, construction of the sewer system begins. They take off the whole fertile soil inside the tape where the bath floor will be. The pipe is placed outside the concrete strip at a slope of 2 cm/1 linear. m. From above, the pipeline and the entire area inside the tape are covered with a layer of sand 10 cm and gravel - 15 cm. After compaction, an armored mesh is laid on the cushion and filled with a concrete screed 15 cm thick. When it hardens, a monolithic base for the furnace is poured. Outside, along the perimeter of the tape, a similar screed is installed - a blind area, 50 cm wide.

Walling

In a month, the foundation of the bathhouse will stand, you can begin building walls from foam blocks. To prevent the porous material from drawing moisture from the ground, 2 layers of roofing felt are laid on the base along the width of the tape. Using a level, the entire foundation plane is measured again. If shrinkage occurs within a month and differences appear, they are leveled with a screed.

The construction of walls begins from the corners. The first row is laid on cement mortar. Each foam block of the next row is coated with glue 5 mm thick and connected to each other. Alignment is performed rubber mallet and level. To ensure even laying of the entire row, pull the cord. If halves are needed, the foam block is cut with a hacksaw.

Each row is laid with a shift in half of the foam block, forming a bundle. After every third row, reinforcement is made. A groove is cut along the perimeter of the end of the wall using a wall cutter or grinder, rods are laid, and filled with mortar.

When building walls, following the design, provide window and door openings for the bathhouse. A lintel made of concrete, thick board or metal is placed above them. They lay along the jumper new row foam blocks.

Erection of the roof

If the bathhouse is not an extension to the house, construction is optimal gable roof. Work begins with overlapping, which comes in 3 types:

1. Monolithic. Construction begins with the installation of formwork. Along the perimeter it rests on the walls, and the middle is supported by racks. A strong reinforced mesh is laid on the formwork and poured with concrete.
2. Made from hollow concrete slabs. The bathhouse ceiling elements are laid with a crane.
3. Prefabricated structure. For ceilings, beams are laid on the walls. They are hemmed from below with boards or plywood. Mineral wool is placed in the cells, protecting the thermal insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

The third option for constructing a floor is the simplest and most cost-effective. It is better to make the sheathing and install the insulation after the roof has been erected.

Construction begins by covering the end of the walls with roofing felt. The mauerlat is assembled from the timber. The frame is secured to the foam block walls with anchor pins. Beams are attached to the Mauerlat, and to them rafter legs. Optimal angle bathhouse roof slopes - 60 o. Installed rafters connect with boards, fill the lathing, roll out roll waterproofing, stack roof covering. If the attic is made warm, the bathhouse roof pie is assembled from waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The pediments are sewn up with any sheet material, for example, OSB boards.

Foam block bath: interior decoration

When the construction of the building is completed, the interior decoration of the foam block bathhouse with your own hands begins, and first of all, windows and doors are inserted into the openings. The next stage is the construction of the furnace.

The stove is made of red brick. You can simplify the task by installing a metal stove. In any design, there is a place on top for stones and containers for heating water. The chimney is led out through the roof of the bathhouse, where a non-combustible frame is installed in the hole.

For internal lining steam rooms use only wood. The dressing room and other rooms can even be covered with PVC clapboard. Before installing the cladding, the walls and ceiling must be waterproofed.

Construction of the floor begins with waterproofing the screed. In the steam room, logs are laid and boards are laid. In other rooms floor covering tiles laid on a subfloor with a layer of insulation filled with concrete screed perform well.

How to make a ceiling in a bathhouse from foam blocks

According to the design, the ceiling in all rooms of the bathhouse is insulated with enhanced waterproofing. The heat is always at the top. If contact with cold occurs, condensation will appear. The ceiling of the bathhouse is covered with lathing. A vapor barrier and mineral wool are placed in the cells, and everything is covered with construction foil. In the steam room the ceiling is sheathed wooden clapboard. For other rooms of the bath, especially the shower compartment, it is allowed to use plastic.

How to insulate a bathhouse made of foam blocks

At the finishing stage, according to the project, the bathhouse is insulated from the foam blocks from the inside using mineral wool slabs. A sheathing of 40 mm thick timber is nailed onto the walls and ceiling. Thermal insulation is placed in the cells and covered with construction foil. The joints are securely taped aluminum tape to prevent moisture from leaking out. The thermal insulation is covered with finishing cladding.

The floor of the bathhouse is insulated with polystyrene foam, pouring the slabs into concrete screed. In the dressing room under tiles lay electric mats of the “warm floor” system.

External insulation is mandatory, since foam blocks tend to absorb dampness from the street. For a ventilated facade of a bathhouse, lathing is attached to the walls, mineral wool is placed inside the cells, covered with windproof film, a counter-batten is stuffed, and the lining is fixed onto it.

Additional information about the construction of a bathhouse can be obtained from the video:

Conclusion

A bathhouse made of foam blocks will last as long as the work was done correctly and the project was drawn up. If moisture does not reach the reliably protected walls, the building will last longer than the expected 15 years.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: reviews

Andrey Ivanovich Kolesov, 37 years old, Nizhny Novgorod

I read on the forums that the main disadvantages in the reviews of owners of bathhouses made of foam blocks are related to the protection of walls from moisture. I decided to take a risk. Construction was completed last year. The money spent on waterproofing and insulating the walls and making a ventilation façade was almost the same as on the purchase of foam blocks. The bathhouse served the season well. We'll see what happens next.

Sergey Viktorovich Konyukhov, 43 years old, Rostov region

On the Internet, one owner of a bathhouse made of foam blocks left positive reviews about his structure, attaching a photo of the construction. Following his example, I built myself a bathhouse measuring 3x3 m. I didn’t skimp on waterproofing. The bath holds heat very well. I don’t know what happens to the foam blocks under the casing, but I hope that the bathhouse will last for more than 10 years.

Availability of a bathhouse in the country or in country house- almost required condition. The bathhouse is both comfort and general improvement of the body. In some cases, a bathhouse is the only opportunity to wash properly (for example, at the dacha). And, of course, a bathhouse is an indispensable component countryside holiday with kebabs. In general, you can’t go anywhere without a bathhouse.

However, building a bathhouse can cost a pretty penny. So much so that you don’t want any comfort or even mandatory washing. The solution is to build a bathhouse on your own. For example, it is quite possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands - such construction will be quite inexpensive, especially since foam blocks are a material that is quite affordable in price and, if handled correctly, the structure will be both high-quality and durable.

Foam blocks have a number of features that must be taken into account when planning to use this material for construction, especially if we are talking about building a room where there will be high humidity - a bathhouse is precisely this kind of room, where not only high humidity, but also temperature.

• foam blocks have increased strength (compression resistance ranges from 3.5 MPa to 5 MPa - depending on the brand of foam blocks), so most brands of this material can be used in the construction of two- or even three-story structures;
• foam blocks are a very light building material, their density, depending on the brand, ranges from 400-1600 kg/m3, and work with such material can be carried out without the use of special equipment, lifts, etc., even one person can lift and install the blocks, in addition, the lightness of foam blocks allows the use of lightweight foundations during construction and the construction of structures on almost any soil, except, perhaps, swampy soils;
• the thermal insulation characteristics of foam blocks are almost the same as those of wood and three times better than those of red brick, which is very important for a structure such as a bathhouse, where it is necessary to maintain the temperature;
• foam blocks are a porous material, which ensures their excellent soundproofing characteristics;
• foam blocks are moisture and frost resistant, which is very important in cold winters, this construction material does not crack due to frost, and long years retains its performance;
• foam blocks can be cut into pieces, grooved, sawed, and so on - they retain their strength.

A bathhouse is a relatively small structure, and foam blocks are a fairly light material, and therefore a bathhouse can be built on almost any soil (if you have a choice, then it is optimal to choose dense soils, but loose soils are also suitable), and an ordinary shallow one is required. The only requirement is for the levelness of the construction site: before starting the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to measure the angle of inclination of the site. But there is no need to level the entire site; the problem can be solved by local changes in the depth of the trench.

Considering that a bathhouse is a structure with high humidity, and this humidity spreads around, the construction site must be cleared not only of debris, but also of the fertile soil layer, as well as grass, leaves, tree branches, and so on - there should not be any left organic materials, since in conditions high humidity they can rot, which inevitably leads to accelerated destruction of the foundation and even the walls of the building.

The foundation is the key to the strength of the entire building. The material can be as strong as you like, but if the foundation is defective, then nothing will help the structure. The foundation should not crack or warp, because the stability of the walls depends on this.
If the ground is construction site is dense enough, then to build a bathhouse you can get by with a shallow strip foundation, but if the soil is loose, the foundation will have to be buried more, that is, the trench will be deeper.

Typically, the depth of the trench for a strip foundation ranges from 0.5-1 m with a width of about 0.3 m. When calculating the depth of the foundation, the laying of a sand-gravel cushion and various layers of insulation (for example, hydro- and vapor barrier) should be taken into account. The same applies to the width of the foundation - it depends on the width of the wall material, in this case - foam blocks. The width of the foundation is not equal to the width of the foam block, but should be slightly larger, as laying will be required insulating materials.

An unpleasant surprise for a novice builder may be heaving of the soil at the site chosen for construction, or the close occurrence of groundwater. It is recommended that before starting to build a bathhouse, contact an organization engaged in geodetic and geological surveys to check the depth of groundwater and the ability of the soil to heave. Otherwise, the building may turn out to be extremely fragile and will not withstand even two or three seasons.

You can do without expensive experts - just look at the neighboring buildings, if, of course, they were built quite a long time ago (at least several years), and check with their owners what type of foundation was used during construction. If there are cracks in the foundations, and if the masonry walls warp even a little, then it is better not to save money and to deepen the foundation for the bathhouse more. A heavily buried foundation, of course, will cost more, but the building will be much more reliable and will last much longer.

It is imperative to clarify the level of soil freezing - the foundation must be below the freezing point. In addition, construction in areas with cold climates requires thermal insulation of the foundation - and this must also be taken into account when calculating the size of the trench.

Sewerage for a bathhouse should be provided at the stage of arranging the foundation, that is, at the very first stage, during excavation work. A channel must be created in advance inside the building's contour, having such an inclination so that wastewater can flow by gravity outside the building. If the village has centralized system sewer, then this branch can be connected to it. Otherwise, you either need to do a separate cesspool, intended for Wastewater from the bathhouse, or equip a well, or connect this drain to an existing autonomous sewer system.

The foundation for a bathhouse is created in six stages, each of which requires close attention and is important for the subsequent strength and durability of the building:

• At the bottom of the prepared trench, a sand and gravel cushion about 0.3 m thick is created, when the mixture of sand and gravel is filled in, it is compacted with water; you can also immediately use wet sand when creating the cushion;
• Formwork from boards is installed along the edges of the trench, and the thickness of the formwork should be as small as possible (<10 см, но не более 20 см), опалубка может быть как съёмной (при этом части опалубки скрепляются саморезами), так и несъемной;
• in order for the foundation to be strong, it is reinforced with metal rods, the horizontal and vertical parts of the reinforcement are connected either by welding or with steel wire;
• after preparing the reinforcement, a concrete mixture is prepared (crushed stone, sand and cement are mixed in a ratio of 5:3:1), liquid concrete is immediately poured into the trench, and after pouring, the concrete mass must be pierced with a metal rod to release the air trapped inside, or the concrete must be de-aired using deep vibrator;
• the mixture hardens within three weeks or more (depending on the weather), it is recommended not to rely on heat and sun, but to immediately cover the foundation with waterproofing material; if the foundation is poured in the cold season, in addition to waterproofing, you also need to use insulation, which results in a three-layer structure: waterproofing/insulation/waterproofing;
• after the concrete has completely hardened, the foundation is waterproofed, most often when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, roofing felt is used as waterproofing - the material is inexpensive and quite reliable.

Laying walls when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands is the simplest thing, taking a minimum of time and requiring minimal labor. Even one person can handle this, but it’s better, of course, when there are helpers.

The laying of foam blocks is carried out similarly to bricks, the only difference is the size of the foam blocks, which are significantly larger than those of bricks, so the laying is done much faster.

When laying walls made of foam blocks, the same tools are used as when laying brick: a trowel, a hammer-pick, a cord-moor, usually a building level, a jointer, a plumb line and a mortar shovel.

Before you start laying walls, you should check the foundation to see if it is level. If there are any errors, they must be eliminated. A special solution is used for this. If you had to eliminate foundation errors, then laying the walls should be postponed until the mortar has completely hardened.

When laying the first row of foam blocks, it is necessary to arrange high-quality waterproofing, since it is this row that will come into contact with the floor of the bathhouse during its operation, and, as a result, it will be affected by high humidity. In addition, it is the first row of walls that is closest to the ground, and, therefore, it is affected by soil moisture, especially during rains and in the cold season. Therefore, waterproofing material is laid under the first row of foam blocks. It is recommended to use roll-type waterproofing (for example, bikrost).

One more nuance when laying the first row of foam blocks: the masonry mortar should only be sand-cement; other mortars are not suitable for this masonry, but they can be used when laying the next rows of walls.

Laying begins from the corners and gradually moves towards the center, while ensuring that the blocks stand level.

For the construction of a steam room, M25 foam blocks are recommended. Laying should be done with the utmost care, trying to make the seams as thin as possible so that the foam blocks fit together as tightly as possible. All unevenness and mortar leaks must be removed immediately, otherwise you will have to spend a lot of effort later on correcting the masonry.

The second row of foam block masonry can be made with a shift of up to 50% - similar to brickwork. Here you can no longer use cement-sand mortar, but special glue. However, it should be borne in mind that it is recommended to use one type of glue for the entire masonry, and not change it from row to row.

After laying each row, be sure to check the quality of the masonry (horizontalness) using a building level. If irregularities are detected, even minimal ones, then you need to use a mallet - tap the protruding elements with it, installing them in the right place. The smoother the masonry, the more reliable the walls of the building will be. If it suddenly turns out that the unevenness does not disappear after tapping with a mallet, then you should use a grater.

To simplify masonry, construction experts recommend creating an order - just as is done when laying bricks. For ordering, a wooden strip or metal corner is used.

To make the walls as strong as possible and prevent them from cracking during operation, it is recommended to reinforce them with metal rods. To do this, holes are drilled in the foam blocks into which the solution is poured - this solution serves to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, then the reinforcement is simply pressed into the solution.

After the masonry is completed, the structure should stand for several days (preferably about a week) until the walls are completely dry. To prevent moisture from getting inside the building in the absence of a roof, the future bathhouse is covered with a film, and the film is used not only as a roof replacement, but also for waterproofing the walls, and should cover the entire structure.

Floors can be made in two versions: monolithic or prefabricated. When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, it is recommended to use monolithic floors, as they have a number of positive features:

• low cost;
• high fire resistance;
• strength and durability;
• ease of installation;
• ease of purchasing materials.

However, there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when constructed from foam blocks:

• It is not recommended to use “homemade” concrete, but you should purchase a factory mixture;
• it is necessary to ensure the lifting of concrete to a great height and, as a result, it is necessary to rent a concrete pump;
• it is necessary to install formwork over the entire area.

In addition, the formwork in this case must withstand more than the substantial weight of concrete and, therefore, it is necessary to use timber with a cross-section of at least 10×10 cm, and plywood panels with a width of at least 1.8 cm.

When installing floors, work is performed in the following order:

• vertical supports are installed, and the distance between the supports should not be less than 1 m;
• boards are installed on vertical supports;
• on top of the already installed boards, those boards that are the main part of the formwork are laid;
• the lower part of the formwork is covered with roofing felt or other roll-type waterproofing material;
• fittings are installed;
• concrete is poured.

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you can make floors from hollow concrete slabs. True, to install them in place you will need to rent a crane, but all work is carried out quickly and as simply as possible. The plates are fastened together with a special solution.

Another option for floors is the use of foam concrete slabs. True, it is recommended to make floors of this type only in one-story buildings, despite their strength.

Interfloor ceilings can also be constructed from wooden beams, using monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. You can also use metal beams, however, this option is quite expensive.

Before you begin attaching the Mauerlat, it is necessary to make a reinforcing belt so that the foam concrete blocks do not fall relative to each other. The reinforcing belt allows all loads that appear during roof installation to be distributed evenly.

To create a reinforcing belt:

• formwork is located around the perimeter of the building;
• the frame is made using thin (about 10 mm) reinforcement;
• Threaded studs with a diameter of 1.4 cm are installed in increments of no more than 1 m;
• the blocks are filled with concrete grade M-200 (you need to purchase a factory mixture, and not prepare it yourself);
• the concrete mixture should dry for about a week;
• After the concrete mixture has dried, the formwork is removed.

Before attaching the Mauerlat, the wood must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardant impregnation, and also dried after treatment. In addition, it is recommended to treat the wood with a waterproofing material, and liquid materials are used for this (for example, bitumen or polymer waterproofing). If you have to use damp wood, you need to install an adjusting anchor nut to adjust the position of the material every three to five years until it dries completely.

To attach the Mauerlat:

• holes are drilled along the length of the dowels into which fasteners are inserted;
• the anchor is installed all the way;
• the harpoon is inserted into the concrete, while the teeth are carefully pressed into the depth of the concrete.

This method of attaching the Mauerlat is considered the best. Its only disadvantages include its high cost: a set of an anchor and dowel with a harpoon costs more than 3,000 rubles, however, when it comes to the durability and reliability of the building, it is better to overpay a little.

The rafter system can be installed in two ways. To implement the first method, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

• cuts are made in the rafters (1/3 of the length of the rafters);
• rafters are secured with nails to metal corners (it is recommended to use exclusively galvanized nails and corners to reduce wood rotting);
• metal corners are fixed end-to-end.

When implementing the second method, cuts in the rafters are not required. In this case, bars are used as support, and then, in the same way as in the first case, fastening is carried out. The second method can only be used if the rafters are short, since the length of the support beam cannot exceed a meter.

A prerequisite is to use only well-dried wood. In addition, it is recommended to use hardwood that is not prone to rotting and is resistant to aggressive biological environments. All rafters must also be checked for defects: rafters that are knotty, resinous or contain cavities are not recommended for use.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands from foam blocks, it is recommended to use a gable roof structure with a ridge in the center. In this case, the rafters are joined in the central part, at the ridge, using a tongue-and-groove system.

The roof slope is selected depending on the average annual precipitation, and both rain and snow are taken into account. If the climate is rainy and the winters are snowy, then a slope of about 50-60º is recommended. The optimal overlap for a roof overhang is about half a meter.

When the installation of the roof frame is completed, a sheathing of thin boards is made. Since the boards are thin, increased demands are placed on their quality: they must be uniform, without knots, resin or cavities. Small knots and nicks are allowed and can be cleaned.

The sheathing can be continuous if ondulin or roofing felt is used as a waterproofing material. In this case, the thickness of the boards must be at least 2 cm.

In addition to waterproofing, thermal insulation is also necessary. Mineral wool is the most popular thermal insulation material - the material is inexpensive and easy to install.

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you should remember that the work does not end with the construction of the building box. High-quality thermal insulation and waterproofing are required. For walls, it is recommended to use mineral wool as a thermal insulation material and aluminum foil for hydro- and vapor barrier. In this case, the foil is laid on both sides of the mineral wool.

In addition, it is recommended to insulate the facade of the bathhouse. Mineral wool is also suitable for this, especially if the walls will be finished with plastic panels. If the finishing will be done with decorative plaster, then it is recommended to use foam plastic or other slab-type materials for thermal insulation. It is also possible to use mineral wool in slabs.

It is recommended to use sanded boards and tiles as a floor covering for a bathhouse; moreover, the tiles should not be smooth to prevent injuries from slipping on them. Wooden boards are laid on pre-assembled logs, and tiles are laid on a reinforced concrete screed. Moreover, after laying the tiles, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant grout for the joints, otherwise the mortar in the joints will quickly begin to crumble, and then the tiles will begin to lag behind the base.

In order to retain hot air in the steam room so that it does not leak under the doors into the dressing room, you need to raise the floor level of the steam room to a height of 10 cm to 20 cm compared to the floor level in the dressing room.

Deciduous wood is recommended as wall decoration for the steam room - it is resistant to rotting in a humid atmosphere. You can also use various exotic wood species that are resistant to high temperatures and humidity. Many exotics emit aromas when heated, which is considered beneficial for the human body. Exotic wood can also be used for flooring - there are interesting durable species that can easily withstand both conditions of high humidity and high temperature. Hardwood and exotic wood can also be used to arrange shelves in the steam room.

Return