We build a stove with our own hands, step-by-step instructions. How to build a brick oven with your own hands

Ready-made brick stove for a summer cottage

Very modest requirements are put forward for a do-it-yourself brick dacha stove. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of the heated room, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate a choice in favor of wood stove. Contrary to popular belief, it can be done without the services of a master stove maker. Let's take a closer look at how to design and build a small brick oven for a summer cottage with your own hands.

Preparing for work

It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for a brick cottage with your own hands without construction experience. There are too many nuances and secrets hidden in the work of a professional stove maker. But small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence can easily be built even by an untrained person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.

Selection of building materials

Since the described small brick stove for a summer house is heated with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be made of ordinary, not refractory brick. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.

List and required quantity of materials:

• red ceramic solid brick - 700 pcs.;
• grate - 1 pc.;
• combustion door - 1 pc.;
• ash door - 1 pc.;
• soot removal channel doors - 2 pcs.;
• valve - 1 pc.

For a stove for a wood-burning cottage with your own hands, you need to choose a solid ceramic brick that does not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time produces not a ringing sound (this is a superheated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side edges of the bricks be smooth.

For the solution you will need clay. Stove makers prefer to choose “fat”, from which the solution turns out to be soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a stove for a summer cottage with your own hands can be found in construction stores or, after consulting with local residents, simply dug up in the area.

Tool

With a good oven tool country house builds quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, plumb line, trowel, mason's hammer and dishes for preparing clay mortar. To cut bricks you need a grinder.

Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer cottage

No matter how small a brick stove you make for your own summer cottage, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot place it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.

To choose the right location for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe fits between the floor beams and the roof joists. If there is a chimney in the wall of the house, then the stove for country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a dacha can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but there will never be smoke in one of the rooms, even under the most unfavorable conditions.

The depth of the foundation must exceed the freezing depth of the soil. However, if country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined foundation can be made for the stove for the dacha. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns, such as those used for fences, are dug vertically into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.

Between them, directly on the surface of the soil, half a brick is poured with a gravel or sand cushion. Then a layer of roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing is laid. The reinforcing material is placed on top metal grid, and already on top of it - it is poured concrete foundation with fittings. The top of the foundation must coincide with the floor level and be perfectly horizontal!

Let's start building the oven

You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the foundation, and a metal sheet on top of it. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, on the side of loading firewood it is better to make a larger outlet. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.

During operation, the garden stove heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest defense a sheet of asbestos painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque can serve. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very dangerous to inhale. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself summer cottage stove can be insulated from wood with a solid slab mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has too low a temperature limit.

Preparing clay solution

The country stove is built on clay, not cement. The clay solution is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth checking its quality first. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.

Dried products need to be tested: throw them from a height of human height, try to crush them with a board under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure shown, the best batch corresponds to samples “b”.

Preparing bricks and clay

The stove for the dacha is built with your own hands from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will adhere well to the brick in the masonry. You need to prepare very little clay so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you won’t be able to put in more at one time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.

Features of stove masonry

In order for a stove in the country, laid with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The laying sequence is visible in the order drawing.

The cast iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are secured using steel wire, which is embedded in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer, but in this case there may be a lot of waste for scrap. The area for the grate should be slightly larger than the size of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.

The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. Good solution spreads as easily as spreading soft butter on bread.

Important Note

If during laying the brick sank lower than necessary, it should be removed, the mortar cleaned and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove at the dacha will smoke heavily and leak soot. Unlike cement mortar, bricks cannot be moved in clay mortar!

When building a stove for your dacha, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. The outside of the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with a needle or finger. There should also be no gaps in the places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to set, and the upper rows do not creep.

Bottom line

Despite small size and simple design for small houses brick country stoves They are very popular because they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick stove for a dacha is low cost and easy to make yourself, but if you live permanently in the winter, you will have to heat it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.

A stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely does a private home do without it. The services of professional stove makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford them. We will tell you how to properly build a brick stove.

Types of furnaces - classification depending on parameters

Laying stoves is not an easy task, but anyone with knowledge and patience can cope with it. When choosing a stove, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. The first thing to pay attention to is its purpose. Heating stoves are intended only for heating; they can accumulate heat and release it long time. To do this, the external walls are laid out in half a brick, or even a whole one. They warm up slowly and cool down slowly, do not heat up much, are massive, high consumption bricks They also use quick heating stoves, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool down quickly.

The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They will not only heat the room, but also cook food. In addition to a cast iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built-in: a water heating boiler, a container for heating water, niches for drying, and beds. A Russian oven of this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from conventional cookers in their high efficiency, high heat capacity, retain heat for a long time, and stable draft.

For greater heat transfer, a heating panel is connected to conventional kitchen stoves. This is the cheapest construction in terms of material costs and labor: you will need up to 200 bricks to heat small room. Very a good option for small cottages. The stove, in addition to the heating panel, can be equipped with an oven, a water heating boiler, and a tank for heating water.

Fuel tank - heat transfer and fuel affect the device

The simplest device heating stove, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke circuits. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any stove is the firebox. They are presented to him certain requirements, in particular, must be of sufficient size: it can contain almost all the fuel in one stowage. Air must be supplied in the required volume, and the temperature must be constantly maintained.

If the size of the firebox is insufficient, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of the brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is intended for firewood. The fuel used affects the height: 6–15 rows (42–100 cm). The grate is placed a row or two below the door to prevent coals from falling out. Often the rear part is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.

Fireboxes: a – wood; b – peat; c – coal.

For the firebox, fireclay bricks are used, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total thickness of the walls is at least ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves combustion quality. All types of fuel burn well in a wood firebox. Coal requires reinforced grates 4 cm thick and good blowing, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.

Smoke circulation - advantages and disadvantages of different systems

The smoke circulation system increases efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to maintain the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the internal surface of the smoke circulation. If there is an excess of gas channel area, the temperature drops so much that condensation appears. A small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases fly into the pipe.

Heat is best absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inside of the smoke circulation is 1:3.

The cross-section, number and location of smoke circulations determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick; they should ensure the free passage of gases. The cross-section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes when the cross-section is insufficient and does not heat up well when it is excessive. A cross section of 170–250 cm 2 is used when the heat transfer of furnaces is 3 thousand kcal or less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.

Smoke circulation systems can have channels (one or more) or be channelless.

Various types of smoke circulation: a – multi-turn vertical; b – multi-turn horizontal; c – single-turn vertical; d – multi-channel single-turn; d – channelless.

As part of a single-turn system, there is one lift channel and the same or several parallel down channels. Parallel channels have low resistance gases, the furnace mass is heated more evenly. The single-turn system has a disadvantage, which manifests itself in significantly greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. In small stoves it is compensated by significant heating of the firebox walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used in which hot gases flow through channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.

A multi-turn system consists of vertical or horizontal channels arranged in series. The first drawback of such a system is that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous turns. The second drawback is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channel, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal channels provide draft, which helps with pipes of insufficient height.

Fire safety requires that the top of the furnace floor be 40 cm from the ceiling of combustible materials. The section of the chimney from the furnace to the cutting in the ceiling is called the neck; it lowest height- three rows of bricks. The neck is a place for installing valves or views, which are closed at the end of combustion. If such devices are installed lower, a lot of heat is lost. Gases are released outside through a chimney, the design of which will be discussed below.

Choosing a stove - savings, heat transfer, simplicity and design

When deciding on the design of the furnace, its ability to satisfy certain requirements is taken into account. Efficiency plays an important role when low fuel consumption ensures an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, so preference is given to designs that evenly release heat over 24 hours. These include stoves that heat well in the lower part.

The maximum surface temperature should not exceed 95°, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design and compliance with fire safety requirements also play a significant role important role. Finally, the design of the stove should match the overall aesthetic of the room.

But the most important requirement The requirement for any stove is the ability to heat all rooms. To do this, heat loss is determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, and the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that every m 3 of room with brick walls at an average winter temperature of -25° it loses 60 kcal/hour. One square meter of the oven is capable of delivering 500 kcal/hour.

When making calculations, we first determine the heat loss of the house. Let's assume you have a normal brick dacha 7x9 with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. A total of 4 separate rooms, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. Multiply by the heat loss of one cubic meter. meters: 157.5×60=9450. This means that you need a furnace with a heat output of 1000 kcal/h; some reserve should always be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m2 of room.

Placement - how to determine the best location

The location of the stove is chosen by everyone at their own discretion, but still, it should be taken into account general recommendations. First of all, the stove in the house should give out maximum heat. If you plan to heat one room, the stove is installed a short distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then two out of four sides will give up heat energy. On diagrams a, b you can see the layout options with an air gap near the wall, which is also called a setback.

If the stove structure will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option when to build it in a partition (same figure, c). It is also possible to heat three adjacent rooms, as in Figure d. The stove is also located in a room common to all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, in the rest there are two. Figures e, f show options when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the utility room. This is a good option for small houses.

In a four-room dwelling, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions, so that one wall of the heating device goes into each of the rooms. This option makes it possible to heat from the kitchen, living room, or veranda without bringing garbage into the bedroom. A rug with a couch is perfect for a summer house with several rooms. The bed is taken to any room the owner prefers.

Construction of the foundation - a reliable foundation for the furnace

After determining the design and choosing a location, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done simultaneously with the foundation of the building. In the case of building a stove in an already built house, we dismantle the floor and fill it. Place even the smallest and lightest stove on wooden floor, makes no sense. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and joists begin to deteriorate, sag, and the stove will have to be rebuilt.

The size of the foundation is larger than the dimensions of the stove by 30 cm in all directions.

It is necessary to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not be in contact with the foundation of the walls; between them we provide a gap of at least 5 cm. The space between the two foundations is filled with heat-insulating material. Separate foundations will ensure independent settling of the walls of the building and the furnace. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to misalignment.

To ensure that less heat from the stove goes into the ground, we lay thermal insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first a slab of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then your choice of foil, tin. There is insulation on top again, and sheet metal on top. We soak the felt in clay milk and top it with a layer of insulation. When it dries, we begin laying. Such reliable thermal insulation will protect against heat loss even in the most harsh conditions.

Clay mortar for masonry - preparation secrets

Brick stoves are laid on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, adheres perfectly to brick. To achieve maximum quality from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.

First, remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is located a little and pour a little water from below. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another container until the required volume of solution is collected.

Soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. Fill 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. After a day, stir, add water if necessary and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the oven solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without leaving any traces. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution; if this happens, add washed sand to the solution.

For 50 pieces of brick laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3–5 mm.

The solution must have the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, we take clay in five equal portions. We add different amounts of sand to four: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. Mix a solution from each part, make pancakes out of them and dry them. We determine quality by touch and by appearance. If a pancake crumbles, there is excess sand in it; if it is cracked, there is not enough sand. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has the optimal ratio of its constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.

There are many secrets in laying brick kilns with your own hands that only experienced craftsmen know, and unknown to beginners. First of all, this concerns the choice of brick. Ceramic brick of a grade no lower than M-250 is used, which is more expensive than the usual M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous and can withstand constant heating and cooling. You can make it out of it decorative elements, ordinary brick is of little use for this.

The internal walls of the firebox are lined with refractory bricks that can withstand temperatures of 1200°. But behind it there is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650°. When the firebox heats up too much, the temperature is transferred to it, shortening its service life. To extend the life of the red brick in the firebox, it is insulated from the fireproof basalt with 5 mm cardboard.

Controlling the mortar on the facing row takes a lot of time. To make the work go faster, glue on the front part of the brick masking tape, which is then removed. The facing row comes out beautiful and neat. Experienced stove makers advise not to bother with preparing a clay-sand mortar, but to buy a ready-made sand mixture for stoves. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.

It is more convenient to lay out any lintel, overlay and other elements if you use metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using corners with front side. Besides the fact that it is unsightly, there is a high probability of getting burned if you accidentally touch it. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used to secure the front trim.

You can extend the service life of the stove if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.

Every stove maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple technique: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular. Mortar is laid between two rods, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks cannot be upset, otherwise the masonry will go in waves. Before use, the rods are lubricated with machine oil to make it easier to remove from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.

Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft

The stove in the house is usually equipped with a cap pipe, which consists of a neck, a fluff near the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter near the roof and a cap. The fluff protects wooden ceiling and roof products from heating and possible fire during combustion. In these places the pipe is made thicker, gradually adding bricks. Metal can be used to support the brick courses, but they should not block the inside of the chimney.

In the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will prevent rain and snow from entering the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are launched under the protrusions of the otter. The chimney is crowned with a cap. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance from the ridge to 3 m, the top of the head is level with the ridge. At greater distance the height should be ensured at an angle of no more than 10° relative to the ridge.

The chimney is designed to provide good draft. It increases with increasing temperature of the exhaust gases, but doing so is not economically feasible, so the pipe is driven to required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plastered inner surface and the absence of cracks in the brickwork also increase traction. To eliminate the influence of wind that can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.

Swede - the best option for a heating and cooking stove

The design has been proven for centuries, small-sized and economical. With dimensions of 880×1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it is capable of heating more than 30 m2. Typically, the firebox and stove are located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove opens into the living space. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to burn with small portions of large coal or pellets; firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption during the heating season is 1.5 tons.

For construction we stock up:

• brick M-150 – 570 pieces;
• 200 kg of dry solution;
• 1.7 m steel angle 40×40;
• 0.65 m of steel strip 5×50;
• roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
• flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.

You will need standard equipment for the stove: a grate, a door for the firebox, a blower, a cast-iron stove with burners, valves - 2, cleanouts - 3. The order of the Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.

Important structural element is an oven that plays the role of an automatic switch between summer and winter operation. It works as an aerodynamic barrier for gases escaping from the firebox. Gases are retained in it, completely burning under hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels and warm up the oven well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the firebox is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.

Excessive heating of the hob is not observed; hot air from the niche goes into the room. In summer, the kitchen, with the correct firebox, heats up no more than from a gas stove. Fuel in small quantities in summer warms up the hob well, as gases are retained by the oven. The burner on the left heats up more, on the right - less, but enough for cooking.

Dutch - a small-sized stove device with high heat transfer

This is a unique, simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and thinner walls, which contributes to rapid heating. Even the owners of stylish modern cottages it attracts with its grace and efficiency. When laying a Dutch oven, any variations are possible, which will not have any impact negative influence on its effectiveness.

This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 fire-resistant ones. The main material is brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox it is necessary to use refractory bricks. It warms up quickly, cools down slowly, and uses fuel sparingly. The Dutch woman is capable of heating up to 70 m2.

As can be seen from the diagram, the Dutch oven does not have a grate, fuel is loaded into the firebox, and the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved through a special smoke circulation device. Gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return through the second channel. There they heat up again and go into the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel the gases go into the chimney.

One of the signs of the convenience of living in a private cottage is its consistently comfortable environment at any time of the year. No matter how beautiful the building may be, it can only be truly cozy warm house. One of the best solutions– organizing heating using a brick stove for the home. The advantages of this material are obvious - the variety of shapes allows brick stoves to harmonize with any environment, and the heat transfer characteristics are among the best.

With proper design and installation, a brick stove can also be used in wooden houses

What types of brick stoves are there for houses?

Brick ovens designed for residential buildings are divided into the following types:

Heating. The main purpose is to provide heating for individual rooms or the entire house;

Cooking. The design is designed in such a way that the main heat flow goes upward - to the hob. Such a stove is heated only during cooking;

Heating and cooking. Essentially, it is a heating stove with a hob. Because functional purpose such a stove has a mixed mixture, you can cook food on it in summer time not always comfortable.

Whatever type of stove it is, some general qualities must be present in any case:

the oven should warm up well;

the chimney design must provide good draft;

high level of general fire safety;

the stove should fit harmoniously into the overall environment, creating a feeling of comfort.

Based on the shape of the product, brick kilns are divided into square, round, corner, T-shaped, and rectangular.

Heat transfer is primarily affected by the thickness of the walls of the product. Based on this parameter, furnaces are made of thick-walled, thin-walled and combined types.

The thickness of the walls is determined not only by the number of bricks, but also by the method of laying them

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

There are several reasons why a brick stove for a home is more preferable than products made from other materials:

The design, thought out to the smallest detail, perfectly serves as a heat storage device. It is this feature that allows you to fire a brick stove much less often than other analogues (steel, cast iron). The heat retention period is about 24 hours. For comparison, firewood in metal stoves need to be laid at intervals of 5-6 hours;

Due to the high accumulation of heat, a brick oven is highly economical and less harmful to the environment, which cannot be said about its metal counterparts. Optimal combustion of fuel gives maximum heat transfer, almost complete decay of organic matter is observed - splitting into carbon dioxide and water base. Excess heat heats the masonry, which in turn warms the rooms;

There is no effect of incandescence on the outer parts, so the thermal radiation of brick structures is much softer than that of steel ones.

The bricks are hot on the outside, but not red-hot, unlike iron parts

This is interesting! When heated, the moisture condensed in the pores evaporates from the bricks, and when cooled, it is absorbed back. This process is commonly called stove breathing and thanks to it, the humidity level of the heated air always remains comfortable - from 40 to 60%. Other heating devices require the installation of an additional humidifier, without it the air dries out.

Also, a stove in a brick house is not without its disadvantages:

The long cooling of the brickwork, scientifically called thermal inertia, is a big plus, but this coin also has a downside - an equally long warm-up. Therefore, when lighting a stove in a cold room of a large area, the temperature in the house will rise slowly - this is especially felt in the far corners. In this case, it is additionally recommended to purchase a convector.

Since a brick oven is a fairly massive structure, ideally it is erected simultaneously with the house. The furnace must function without interruption, so special knowledge and experience are needed to design and build it. Even despite free access to drawings with the order of brick stoves for the home, you can’t do without a specialist in this matter, and good stove masters in short supply.

For high-quality laying of stoves, it is not enough just to know the order - this work has many nuances, knowledge of which comes only with experience

Still, in most cases, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, and many home owners prefer a classic brick stove to other types of heating.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer installation services for fireplaces and stoves. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Which brick to choose for the stove

When choosing a brick, attention is primarily focused on its resistance to temperature influences. The building material must withstand repeated heating and cooling procedures. The overall service life of the stove depends on the characteristics of the brick from which the stove will be made.

It is customary to mark bricks. One of the main indicators is density and strength grade. The denser the product, the slower the kindling and heating will occur. To build a stove, you need bricks whose markings indicate strength grade M150-250, with maximum thermal conductivity and minimum hygroscopicity.

Note! Density itself is not a sign of quality. A strength grade that is too high may indicate the presence of substances in the brick that are harmful to humans when heated.

The next marking indicator is the level of frost resistance, which should be the highest. It plays an important role when choosing products used in laying the chimney (especially the part protruding above the roof).

Marking of bricks for stoves in comparison with other types of material

Frost resistance implies the ability of a product to absorb moisture. Its crystallization inside the material can cause deformation of the latter. Hollow facing ones are better suited.

When forming the inside of the chimney, you need solid red brick. Plastic molding is preferred. These products withstand temperature changes and do not crack even with significant downtime.

Use in the construction of furnaces is contraindicated:

silicate and pressed bricks;

bricks made using the slip casting method;

unfired raw materials.

The maximum aging of fireclay bricks (made in accordance with GOST) is up to 1350 °C. It is quite possible to use such products to create most of the structure or to use them separately for thermal protection (lining) of internal surfaces.

The Sh8 brand is suitable for the firebox (such bricks have straw- yellow and darkish inclusions). For the arch of the firebox, it is recommended to use fireclay products (W 22-Sh45). The only exception is sauna stoves where, due to high humidity, such bricks are contraindicated.

Sh8 brand refractory brick has a straw-yellow color

How to determine the optimal location of the furnace

The location in the house for the stove must be determined according to certain parameters. The following indicators are taken into account:

area of ​​a residential building;

how many rooms should be heated;

what is a stove for and what type?

how gases will be removed during combustion;

the location of the stove must comply with fire safety requirements.

The stove should heat every room in the house as evenly as possible. If this condition is not met, either an additional furnace or water heating system equipment will be required.

To heat the rooms adjacent to the kitchen, a heating and cooking stove is used. It is placed in the kitchen, and the rest of the rooms are heated by the heat-dissipating wall.

When building a house made of stone, you can immediately think through the layout of chimneys in the walls, which will increase usable area home and ensure optimal heating.

When placing the stove on the border of rooms, you need to think about the place where it can be most successfully placed so that the surfaces transferring heat from the stove allow for uniform and maximum heat distribution.

Typically, the place to place the firebox is a hallway or kitchen. If the stove is designed well, it is almost invisible in the house. She doesn't clutter living space and harmonizes perfectly with all interior elements. For example, it is often used combined option. In one room there is one side of the building - the stove, and in adjacent room, its second part is the fireplace. The chimney system is common.

A brick stove for a home cannot be called mobile, so planning a place for it requires attention. We should also not forget that the oven requires regular maintenance, which means that convenient approaches must be carefully thought through.

Furnace foundation

Since the specific gravity of the entire structure is high, it needs a strong foundation.

Furnace foundations are divided into the following types:

reinforced concrete;

• pile-screw;

  columnar;

  made of blocks.

It is important! Whatever type of foundation the foundation belongs to, it must be created separately from the foundation of the house (except monolithic slab). The choice of foundation depends on the soil on which it will be laid.

The gravel-sandy soil type requires the preparation of a shallow foundation;

For clayey or sedimentary soil, the foundation is poured using a crushed stone cushion;

Differences between arranging the foundation for a brick and iron stove

In the permafrost zone, a pile-screw foundation is used;

Dry rocky soils make it possible to get by with either a minimal base thickness or not use it at all;

The stove cannot be installed in areas of bulk soil.

Stages of arranging the base for a brick kiln:

Taking into account the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, a pit is prepared.

The bottom is compacted with horizontal alignment. Crushed stone is poured in an even layer, broken brick and rubble stone. Tamping again.

A solution is prepared (proportion 1:3). The embankment is filled with mortar;

use a combination of crushed stone and cement;

apply a frame made of reinforcement and then fill it with concrete;

a reinforced concrete slab is poured, on which the foundation is made from bricks and concrete and rubble pouring.

Move on to the next steps after all the used solution has dried.

Laying three-layer waterproofing.

Bricks that have been stored under storage should not be used in construction. open air. Due to repeated freezing and getting wet, they become brittle, which will reduce the service life of the stove.

To see some of the nuances of choosing a foundation for a stove, watch the video:

To fill the space between the stove foundation and the foundation of the house, use ordinary river sand.

The procedure for laying the furnace

How to properly build a stove in a house depends on the materials used and the chosen design, but the main stages of work are always the same:

The beginning of the creation of the stove - the first two rows of bricks form its flood part;

Laying the third row of bricks - a blower door is installed in it;

Laying the fire part;

As soon as several rows are laid out, a grate is installed above the ash chamber. It is placed on fireclay bricks;

The combustion door is installed. The combustion chamber is formed;

A hob is placed on top of the combustion chamber;

Continuation of masonry with the gradual design of a gas convector system;

When the body of the stove is formed, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Installing oven doors

Depending on the design of the stove, folding, lifting, sliding or classic doors are installed.

When choosing a door material for the stove, take into account the following points:

cast iron structures with glass inserts or all-glass products are chosen if the house likes to admire the play of flames;

Through the glass you can clearly see the fire burning in the oven.

All cast iron samples are used if the stove is fired with coke, coal or mixed fuel. Doors made of steel or glass are suitable for a wood-burning stove;

to avoid burns and protect children or pets from dangerous environments, a metal door with an additional thermal shield is required;

The selected doors are installed at the appropriate stage of laying brick stoves, according to the given scheme.

Rules for operating a brick stove

In order for the stove to last a long time, you must follow certain rules operation:

The consistency of the stove's characteristics is ensured by maintaining the integrity of its body. Even a small crack of 2 mm in the area of ​​the valve will lead to a loss of 10% of the heat generated during fuel combustion.

The stove should be heated correctly. Heat loss when the blower is open reaches 15-20%. If the firebox door is open during combustion, open air All 40% will come out.

For the firebox, be sure to use dry firewood, prepared in advance. When using raw materials, less heat is generated and due to the formation of caustic condensation, the brick walls are destroyed.

Uniform heating is possible only when burning approximately identical logs - from 8 to 10 cm thick.

To see the errors in the installation and operation of brick stoves, watch the video:

Laying firewood should be done leaving an empty space of 10 mm between them. Firewood is loaded into the firebox in parallel rows or with intersections. The best option filling the firebox - 2/3. The gap between the firewood stack and the top of the firebox should not be less than 2 cm.

To ignite fuel, use ordinary paper, a torch, etc. Do not use flammable substances: gasoline, kerosene or acetone.

As soon as the stove is lit, the view is covered a little, otherwise all the heat will immediately disappear.

The reference point when adjusting the draft during kindling is the color of the fire. A yellow flame color is considered optimal. If the flame is white, this indicates an excess of oxygen - a lot of heat goes straight into the chimney. Red flame - there is not enough air, the fuel burns partially, releasing harmful substances into the air.

Cleaning

Major cleaning, as well as repair work, is best organized in summer period, but in winter it is also necessary to periodically evaluate the amount of soot in the chimney. Sometimes, due to improper kindling, bad firewood or other reasons, contamination occurs much faster and additional cleaning will be required. When soot accumulates, at best, the thermal efficiency of the furnace decreases, and at worst, all the smoke and carbon monoxide can escape into the room.

For information on cleaning a brick oven, watch the following video:

The ash chamber and cleaning of the grates should be carried out in each firebox.

Elements such as a valve, a view and a blower door serve to regulate the draft of the stove and its operating mode. Their functionality and integrity must be constantly monitored. As soon as problems arise or individual parts are worn out, the issue must be resolved immediately.

Conclusion

If there is a stove in the house, then there is heat and home comfort. But regardless of the chosen brick stove design, its proper functioning will depend not only on how well it is made, but also on its proper maintenance by the residents of the house.

Stove heating as a method of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove maker, many country property owners are forced to master the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase Construction Materials for a significant amount.

Types of furnaces

A DIY brick stove for your home can be:

• Russian;
• Swedish;
• Dutch.

Furnaces are also distinguished:

• baths;
• garden;
• heating;
• heating and cooking;
• fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick structure. It is equipped with a place to rest, called a couch. Under it there is a cooking chamber - a firebox or crucible, under which there is an ash pan. It must ensure continuous combustion solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick stoves for the home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.

The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, a Russian stove is capable of heating a living space with an area exceeding 40 square meters. But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.

Swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are not more than a meter. This small DIY brick oven is intended for:

• for space heating;
• for cooking food.

A cast iron stove with 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. During the construction of the stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is installed in another room.

A serious design disadvantage is the high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of stove units owes its appearance to Russian stove makers; it was they who invented it. The “Dutch” is intended for heating the premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. To completely warm up a cold room with it, it will take 10 hours.

During the off-season, a DIY brick Dutch oven can retain heat for 24 hours. Its structural design ensures high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.

“Dutch” is built only using oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and release it gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what you need for this

Having reviewed the stove designs and made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. In addition to the design, the stove structure must comply with fire safety requirements, which is why the preparation stage for its construction is so important, which involves:

1. Development of a detailed diagram for laying a stove with or without a stove.
2. Determining the installation location of the structure.
3. Selection of materials.
4. A selection of tools.
5. Drawing up construction cost estimates.

In addition to the above measures, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

The final result of construction depends on how competently the design of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you don’t have to develop diagrams - drawings of the furnace with your own hands, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you need to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also wouldn’t hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.

When choosing a location for a stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of ​​the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of laying a brick stove in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove makers advise novice craftsmen to build scaled-down models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex stove designs are chosen, laying stoves with your own hands can be an overwhelming task for inexperienced craftsmen. In this case, you should seek help from professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of stove is to be built, the same materials are used - bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of brick.

There are 4 types of bricks for sale for the construction of furnace units:

• hand molding;
• ceramic;
• refractory;
• silicate.

Ceramic products are used to cover the unit. It is advisable to purchase M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when you build a brick stove with your own hands for a dacha or private household, you need to take it clean, without debris and various impurities, and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for kiln units can be normal, thin or oily. The proportions for preparing the mortar and the technology for laying bricks depend on which type is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has a normal fat content.

Preparing tools

To build a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools needed:

• for cutting bricks - a grinder;
• for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell no larger than 2 millimeters;
• shovel;
• to compact the mortar - jointing;
• for laying the mixture - combined kerma;
• a hammer drill plus a mixer attachment for it;
• for cutting bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring instruments:

• tape measure at least 5 meters long;
• to control verticality - a plumb line;
• a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
• to check the evenness of the installation - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
• construction and flexible levels.

TO auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick kiln

When we install a stove with our own hands, first of all we ensure a distance between the chimney pipe and the roof covering of at least 15 centimeters. Then you can begin marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging the common building foundation. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be connected to the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage differs due to different degrees of load.

First, the foundation pit is filled with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is built from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.

When the base is ready, it top level should be lower floor surface by 19 centimeters. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor is calculated upper floors. The base must be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.

Laying a brick stove for a home

First of all, you need to study the drawings of a brick stove with your own hands. Then prepare the solution and lay the first row using a spatula and trowel. Often, novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not “spar” the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. Hold the brick suspended with one hand.
2. Applying light blows, mark the place of the chip.
3. Holding the brick suspended, they sharply and accurately cut it into pieces according to the marked marks.
4. When you build a wood-burning stove with your own hands for a summer house or home, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
5. The initial rows are built from whole material, and the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be cut. They are laid with the chopped side inside the solid structure. This point is important when constructing chimney channels and fireboxes. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of building arches and vaults with your own hands

When constructing arches and vaults, they also use do-it-yourself drawings of a brick kiln for a summer house or other building. The bricks are laid using the gradual overlap technology, with a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, a “lock” layout or masonry using the “lintel” method is used - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be replaced with a wooden frame.

To construct the pipe, silicate brick is used, which can withstand temperature changes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no unevenness or chips in the chimney. When the stove structure is ready, a control fire is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

Large and small DIY brick stoves are popular in private homes. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it lasts for decades.

Brick stoves equipped with a hob are universal - they allow you to heat a house, as well as heat water and cook food. , from the simplest and most compact ones that you can fold with your own hands, to complex multifunctional ones, the laying of which is best left to an experienced stove maker.

It would seem that there is nothing easier than replacing the suitable surface of a brick oven with a metal insert with your own hands, getting a stove for cooking. In reality, everything is much more complicated. A stove is a complex device, and the thermophysical processes occurring in it depend on correct location its elements.

There are special requirements for furnaces of this type. On the one hand, it must effectively accumulate heat in the thickness of the brickwork, on the other hand, it must take a significant part of the heat to heat the hob. In the summer, when heating the house is not required, the hob should warm up quickly with economical fuel consumption.

Requirements

Theoretically, the hob can be made from any material that can heat up to high temperatures when the stove is fired. In practice, they are used with holes covered with a removable lid.

This design allows you to create zones with different temperatures on the stove. The thermal conductivity of cast iron, unlike steel, is not very high, so you can heat food on the plane of the stove, as well as cook or stew it over low heat. And by opening the lid, you can achieve direct heating of the cookware with an open flame, which allows you to quickly boil water or fry food in a frying pan.

The most practical burners shown in the photo, consisting of concentric rings of different diameters- they can be adjusted to the size of the bottom of the dish. In addition, the gaps between the rings are compensated thermal expansion cast iron, which occurs when overheated, and the stove can withstand multiple heating and cooling cycles without damage. Solid cast iron plates less reliable and require more careful heating.

Materials

Which brick is preferable for laying a stove equipped with a hob?
In most cases, on the ordering diagrams of stoves for a home, cottage or bathhouse, you can see two types of brick: ordinary solid ceramic and fire-resistant fireclay - it is most often designated in yellow. From fireclay bricks, they lay out with their own hands those parts that experience the greatest thermal loads during combustion: the firebox and the roof of the furnace, part of the smoke channel directly after the combustion chamber.

The main difference between fireclay bricks is its increased heat capacity. It is able to accumulate and release the resulting heat for a long time more efficiently than ceramic. For laying a heating stove, and especially this is an undeniable plus.

But if the stove is used primarily as a cooking stove, then the increased heat capacity of fireclay is rather a disadvantage: it will absorb a significant part of the heat, and cooking will take more time. In the summer it will be impossible to cook on such a stove - the room will become hot and stuffy.

If the stove is used primarily for cooking, it is recommended to use a minimum amount of fireclay bricks!

Kinds

There are many varieties of heating and cooking stoves; every stove maker probably has in stock several tested drawings and diagrams, according to which he carries out the masonry with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all built on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.

Swedish oven

"Swedish" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, cooking a variety of foods, as well as drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out in detail; the stove is equipped with a hob, an oven, and perfectly heated stove niches. In addition, her smoke channels are made in such a way that the body of the furnace is heated evenly from bottom to top, thanks to which the room maintains a stable temperature.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and is separated from it by a thin layer of masonry. The firebox arch is formed by a slab located in a niche. Immediately after starting the fire, the cooking surface and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.

In winter time when the oven is fully loaded, the initial The room is heated by convection currents from the stove and oven, after finishing the fire - due to the heated walls of the oven. The hob does not overheat, since air constantly circulates above it.

In summer the stove is used mainly for cooking. In this case, intense convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and a small amount of fuel is sufficient for good heating of the stove. The oven also warms up, creating a zone at the outlet of the firebox high temperature, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. The furnace body heats up slightly.

Scheme and drawings of the furnace masonry Swedish type with your own hands is shown in the figure.

To lay a classic “Swedish” with your own hands you need:

• solid red brick, grade M 150 - 580 pieces;
• clay-based dry masonry mixture - 200 kg;
• cast iron grate;
• firebox door;
• ash door;
• cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
• oven welded from sheet metal;
• chimney damper - 2 pcs;
• cleaning - 3 pieces;
• equal-flange steel angle 40 mm - 170 cm;
• steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
• flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
• roofing iron.

The foundation for the swedish is made solid, from concrete. Under the foundation it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with two-layer reinforcement made of rods. Before laying begins, the foundation is kept for at least 20 days to gain strength.

Level the foundation using a screed with the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to thermally insulate the furnace from the concrete, otherwise it will absorb a significant part of the heat.

Do it like this:

1. an asbestos sheet 3-4 mm thick with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the stove on the sides and back and 60 cm on the firebox side is placed on the foundation;
2. a heat reflector is placed on the asbestos - foil or thin galvanization;
3. followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
4. sheet of roofing iron with the same indentations as asbestos;
5. on top of the iron is technical felt, impregnated with clay milk according to the size of the furnace.

On top of the felt, after it has dried, they begin laying the stove according to the order scheme:
First two rows- solid. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth- install the blower door, clean and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. In the 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke ducts, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. In the 7th row install the firebox door and secure it in rows 8 and 9, continue to lay out channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To install it correctly, you must first lay the brick dry, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.

For ease of laying, the bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and, using a grinder, recesses for laying the slab are selected so that there is a gap of 5 mm on all sides. After which the series is collected on masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on clay-asbestos liquid solution. To prepare it, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar, diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check its level. If the burners have different size, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one - above the oven.

Laying rules hob: video

From 12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and the smoke ducts. On top of row 16 lay a sheet of flat slate to fit the niche, and in rows 17 and 18 they lay it with bricks, forming the ceiling of the furnace. Next laying lead according to the pattern up to row 30, in which a valve is placed, after which they begin laying the required height.

Small cooking stove

In a country house or summer kitchen, a stove can be installed for only one purpose - cooking. In this case, there is no need to waste material on smoke circulation. An excellent model of a cooking stove is presented in order.

This multifunctional wood-burning stove performs several functions: you can cook and fry on the hob, bake in the oven, and it is also equipped with a built-in tank for heating water.

The sketch of the facade shows its elements:

• 1 - firebox;
• 2 - ash pan and ash pan;
• 3 - oven;
• 4 - water tank;
• 5 - cleaning door.

The stove resembles a “Swedish” stove in design and type of heating, but without smoke ducts. The heated smoke goes straight into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located at the rear, which allows you to remove the pipe through the wall yourself, observing fire safety standards.

For such a stove no more than 250 bricks required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without building a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: lay felt on the floor, soaked in a liquid clay solution, and on it - a sheet of roofing iron. Laying begins on top of the sheet.

First two rows, like the Swedish one, solid. In the 3rd row install cleaning at 4 and 5- the door of the ash pit, forming a smoke circulation and exit to the chimney. In the 6th row They cover the ash pan door, install the oven and water tank. In the 7th row a grate is placed at the bottom of the firebox, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, and install the firebox door. 11 row- overlap over the firebox door, oven and tank. Also in the 11th row a recess is made for laying the slab.

The top of the stove is covered with a cast iron hob with two burners. They are selected so that the maximum heating element is located above the firebox. Place the slab with a gap of 5 mm on clay mortar with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov furnaces

Fundamentally new design furnaces are implemented in Unlike channel furnaces, they do not have a complex system of internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - bells. For this feature, Kuznetsov stoves are called bell stoves. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually releasing heat. It causes uneven heating, and sometimes destruction of furnace elements. If the channels are insufficiently long, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.

In bell-type structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded at the top by the ceiling and with an exit at the bottom. The hot gas at the top of the bell gradually cools, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually falls down. The circulation of gases in Kuznetsov bell furnaces is shown in the figure.

For complete heat transfer in Kuznetsov stoves, not one, but two or three caps are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna stoves, or horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating and cooking stoves, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of the hoods.

The hob is located either above the firebox or forms the arch of the lower hood. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Procedures for do-it-yourself masonry, as well as photos of the most popular designs of Kuznetsov stoves are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov stove for a bath

Video: laying Kuznetsov’s heating and cooking stove

Video: Kuznetsov stove for a bath

A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a country house, as well as a relaxation area in a bathhouse or in a country house. If there is a diagram, drawings, order and detailed instructions you can fold it with your own hands, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

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