Varnish polishing technology. Features of polishing varnished products with your own hands

You will need

• - polish;
• - pumice-wax composition;
• - cloth;
• - tampon;
• - water;
• - rags and sponges;
• - planed sample board;
• - Vaseline or vegetable oil.

Instructions

Choose a polish the desired color, depending on the color of the wooden product. By mixing different polishing components, you can achieve a shade from classic reddish-brown (shellac and alcohol 1:4) to colorless (bleached shellac and alcohol 1:5).

You can prepare the working fluid yourself. To do this, dissolve the purified shellac in alcohol in advance. Add a small amount of benzene to the resulting mixture, shake the solution and leave for a day.

Drain upper layer liquid, being careful not to stir up the cloudy sediment. Filter the working mixture through a funnel and a sheet of filter paper - the polish is ready.

Proceed to sanding the varnished product with a special pumice-wax composition. It can also be made in: sift store-bought pumice powder through a silk sieve, then pour into melted natural wax and stir vigorously.

Fold a piece of cloth in half and begin sanding the varnish, regularly moistening the rag in the resulting abrasive composition. Use light circular motions until the entire piece is completely smooth.

Wash off the pumice clean water and a foam sponge and wipe with a dry cloth. Before polishing, warm up the entire sanded surface by rubbing it with a cloth.

Make a polishing pad. One of its shells should be made of rough canvas, the other of soft flannel. Place a fat-free lump of natural wool or cotton wool inside. Select the size of the device individually, depending on the area of ​​the product.

Unroll the tampon, pour polish onto the soft filler and re-roll the woven shells. When the wool or cotton wool is saturated with polishing compound, run the swab over the planed board sample. The degree of saturation of the canvas with polish is optimal if you have smooth, thin and quickly drying strokes. Under no circumstances should they spread!

Apply a little Vaseline or vegetable oil– then it will slide better over the product and will not stick.

Start polishing the varnish. At the first stage, make small circular movements from left to right. Then move the swab to the next area without lifting your hand and begin polishing the furniture in the opposite direction. When processing the edges, pull the tampon either in a wavy or in a straight line.

Now let's talk about methods and equipment for refining the surface of the finished varnish film. In principle, there can be three types of structure of this surface - silky, matte, glossy.

A silky sheen usually occurs in coatings formed by varnishes containing volatile solvents (for example, nitrocellulose). Such coatings are characterized by a small thickness, as a result of which they copy the surface of the substrate, i.e., the fibrous structure of wood.

A matte (or, as they sometimes say, matte) surface can be obtained in two ways - by special grinding of the glossy coating or by using varnishes with matting additives. IN Lately The second method is mainly used.

Glossy coatings (they can also be called mirror-smooth) have become widespread. They are formed by varnishes, in which film formation occurs without evaporation of solvents. But immediately after curing, ready-made glossy coatings are practically impossible to obtain. It is necessary to refine them to remove irregularities that are the result of errors in varnish spilling, coating drying, dust getting on the surface, copying substrate irregularities, etc.

The reader may wonder which coating structure is preferable. The answer cannot be clear-cut. This is influenced by both economics (the cheapest coating is silky), and the taste of the manufacturer and buyer (in the USSR and in a number of foreign countries for a long time preference was given to glossy coatings), and technological capabilities (to obtain glossy coatings you need complex equipment for refining, which will be discussed below, and for matte ones - special, still relatively scarce varnishes).

The author should draw the reader's attention to the fact that the structure and quality of the surface paint coating- one of the most important characteristics the quality of the entire product, especially furniture. For manufacturers, this circumstance is complicated by the fact that the sensitivity of the human eye to surface irregularities, especially polished ones, is very high (the eye can distinguish irregularities equal to even 1/5 microns!). Therefore, when obtaining the desired structure of the finished surface, much attention is paid to everything that contributes to its quality: product design, materials, machining, the final phase of production - refining the coating.

In most cases, the coating surface is leveled by grinding. In the case where coatings are capable of dissolving, leveling the surface can be done with a swab dipped in a solvent. The latter method is often used for curved surfaces.

Grinding or grinding is of great importance for leveling polyester coatings: a layer of paraffin is removed, micro-irregularities are reduced to a size where the coating can be polished, and the surface is leveled to a plane. When grinding, a layer 0.05-0.1 mm thick is removed. The height of irregularities (roughness) before polishing should not exceed 2 microns.

The surface is first sanded with coarser sandpaper (Nos. b and 7). Great importance has a grinding direction - it should be cross. Machines are preferably mechanically fed through-type, equipped with sanding belts that grind during the first pass across the movement of the board (rough grinding) and along the board (along the grain if the board is lined wood veneer) for fine grinding.

It is known from physics that a surface is mirror-like if the magnitude of the irregularities on it is less than half the wavelength of visible light, i.e. less than 0.2 microns. We have already said that after grinding, irregularities remain, the height of which can reach up to 2 microns. It is these irregularities that are removed by polishing, which is done with pastes (sometimes with liquids that dissolve coatings). Polishing pastes are a mixture of abrasive powders with a liquid or solid binder. Polishing is carried out on belt or drum grinding machines. The working tool on them is no longer sandpaper, but soft textiles, cloth, felt, on which paste is applied. Machines may have one or more drums (belts). If the machine is of a pass-through type, there can be 6 or even 8 of them. The drums are located at an angle to the direction of movement of the shield (8-12°). Sometimes, in order to avoid scratches, the drum is given an oscillating movement, i.e., slow movement along the axis.

From everything told in the seventh conversation, it is clear that for finishing works it is necessary to conduct special training of highly qualified personnel with knowledge in the field of physics and chemistry, mechanics and electronics, printing and paper production. Increasingly, in finishing shops you can meet specialized specialists - chemists, physicists, electronics engineers, printers.

The author believes that in the near future we can expect the appearance of new important improvements in finishing based on the latest achievements science and technology, which will require even more highly qualified personnel.

All photos from the article

Final stage wood processing is similar the finishing touch in the picture. A smooth, shiny or glossy surface begins to “sound” in a very special way. The color becomes deeper, the design appears brighter, emphasizing the perfection of the product. Careful polishing of the material will not only emphasize its beauty, but will ensure its preservation for a long time.

Chic, shine - beauty

What can and should be polished, with what and in what way are exciting questions for those who want or are forced to take up this difficult but fascinating task. Polishing wooden products– new walls or restored countertops, fulfills aesthetic and protective function ().

Pros and cons of varnish

Take a closer look, you are surrounded by many things made of wood, the treated surface of which shines or glows matte:

• decorative crafts;

• decorative cutting boards, spoons;
• walls/floors;
• furniture;
• laminate (there are also such fans).

But polishing wooden products is not always appropriate and safe, this includes:

• spoons, if they are intended for food and not decoration;
• kitchen knives - a very smooth handle is more difficult to hold, and if dropped decorative layer will inevitably crack;
• gun stocks (for the same reason).

Finishing agents

The choice of varnishes is huge and each of them has its own specifics:

• luxury furniture is coated with alcohol - their price is high, the most luxurious varnish is shellac;
• alkyd – wear-resistant, used to cover parquet;
• acrylic – fragile, requires re-application;
• polyurethane and alkyd with the addition of fungicides are good for outdoor use;
• water-soluble are remarkable for the absence of harmful fumes;
• solvent-based, resistant to detergents, but the air is not ozonized;
• oil - cheap, “healthy”, but gives the surface a yellowish color;
• nitro varnishes dry the fastest - from 15 to 25 minutes, give a strong shine and are very durable.

A few words about wax

As already mentioned, the use of varnish or polish is not always advisable - for dishes and children's furniture it is better to use drying oil or wax paste. It’s great that it’s not difficult to prepare wax paste at home, and the main ingredient can be bought from “honey cakes” at the bazaar.

The wax paste can be made liquid or solid at will, depending on the amount of turpentine - solvent. In the classic version, the components are mixed in a 1:1 ratio. The wax is heated in a water bath, but a microwave is also suitable, then turpentine is poured into it with constant stirring until a homogeneous consistency.

Note! The procedure for preparing the material yourself at home will require increased safety measures. Be sure to have ventilation and no sources of fire - turpentine has a pungent odor and is highly flammable.

In conclusion

Every day, throughout our lives, we subject things to tests - touches, impacts, placing them in the scorching sun or a damp terrace. Often thanks to decorative coating it is possible to preserve/restore furniture, decorative elements or art objects for a long time.

If you want to get super gloss on your furniture, the video in this article will reveal all the secrets of this process.

So that the wooden surface after varnishing resembles glass, and you can look into it like in a mirror, the varnish is polished. Normal varnish coating does not give the expected effect. All wood fibers that have been smoothed by sanding rise from the varnish and disturb appearance products. The viewer is presented with a shiny but uneven canvas.

There are several options on how to give it yourself wooden surface mirror shine. The most famous of them:

• wax coating;
• varnishing;
• actually the polishing process.

Let's look at all the processes in detail.

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself polishing work begins only after covering the product with several layers of varnish, when it has already dried well.

The process requires abrasive materials and the polishing compound itself, which is called polish. After finishing the processing, depending on the polish, the following types of coatings are obtained:

• when using nitro varnishes or shellacs, a glossy surface is obtained;
• the coating takes on a semi-matte appearance after water-based, pentaphthalic or polyurethane varnishes;
• Matte shine is given by oil or oil-varnish compositions.

Waxing

The process is not complicated and can be done with your own hands at home. When treated with wax mastic, the natural texture of the wood appears more clearly, visually the surface becomes soft and velvety. The method has proven itself well on hard woods - such as ash, walnut, oak. Soft woods such as birch, alder and linden are pre-tinted for greater effect.

The process consists of carefully filling the spaces between the wood fibers with wax until smooth surface followed by application of varnish.

Waxing technology

1. Wood that has previously been cleared of lint by sanding is coated thin layer mastics. Upon completion of drying, wipe the surface against the grain with a soft rag. After applying the first layer, all irregularities in the form of pores and cracks must be filled with wax. The surface becomes smooth.
2. Can withstand the product or flooring two hours in the warmth.
3. Apply the second layer with your own hands using a soft rag. When applying mastic, gradually increase pressure on the surface. The result of processing should be a smooth matte surface.
4. The final polished look is achieved by applying a thin layer of shellac-based furniture varnish.

This method has disadvantages. Wax coating is not resistant to moisture - even a small drop leaves its mark.

Surface varnishing

The process is to fill all micropores with varnish and prevent new pile from forming. The result is a film that is resistant to water and dust, a surface with a deeper and richer pattern. The treatment is carried out with a cotton swab, which was previously wrapped in a clean canvas cloth that does not leave lint on the surface being treated.

Sequence of DIY work

1. Generously apply the varnish in two layers. During processing, all irregularities must be filled with varnish.
2. Remove all varnish from the surface using sanding materials. The varnish remains only in cracks and pores.
3. Apply a second layer. These two coats are considered pre-primed.
4. After secondary coating, dust is carefully removed.
5. Apply a third, very thin layer and leave in a closed box or room for a couple of days. During this period, not a speck of dust should fall on the product.
6. Apply the final varnish coat once or twice.

All resulting smudges subsequently form stains. To avoid this, the surface is covered with a very thin layer of varnish, while trying not to destroy the film formed during the previous movement. Everything is done evenly, efficiently and quickly, without stopping. It’s better to rehearse on a control copy. The work can be done with either shellac or oil varnish.

Oil varnishing

When working with your own hands, you must take into account that it takes a long time to dry. For the primer, use a solution of 200 g of varnish per 1 liter of water.

The dried and sanded surface is covered with a thick brush with liquid varnish. If the solution becomes thick, you can add turpentine. The brush is moved evenly, without sudden movements, and the excess is removed. Prevents the formation of bubbles when moving the brush.

Polishing

This technology gives the most beautiful texture, well preserving the grain of the wood. The result is a surface resembling a mirror. The main thing is that you can do it simply and with your own hands. Not all materials lend themselves well to such processing.

Wood with a large texture does not tolerate polishing well.

Work order

1. Prime the surface with three layers of varnish. After the first layer, sand and carefully remove dust. Then apply two layers of varnish over the dried surface.
2. Polishing is done with a swab, and the polish is applied in a thin layer. Dry and grind with abrasive materials or a grinding machine. The process is very long, it is better to use technology. After each application of polish, the surface is dried and sanded again. As a result, gloss begins to appear on the surface. To prevent the tampon from sticking during operation, add a couple of drops of oil.
3. Polishing is done using polish with the addition of a small amount of oil. Rub the surface with a swab until the desired shine is achieved. In order not to dissolve the previous layers, oil is added in an amount of only 1-2 drops per 10 cm². Repeat the work several times. Between processing layers, wipe the coating with a rag soaked in a solution of polish and water.

Failure to comply with the technology and sequence of work or an insufficient number of layers will affect the result. It is better to do the first DIY work on a test plate. The given recommendations will help to give the varnish a mirror shine and create an even, smooth surface.

Polishing a car after painting is a mandatory procedure if the car owner wants to maintain a uniform color and iridescent gloss on the body of his car for a long time (at least 3 years). This necessary work regardless of whether the car was completely painted or localized.

Polishing a car body after painting eliminates the following defects:

1. Paintwork defects due to adhering dust, suspended matter, debris. Often not visible to the naked eye, but will appear after drying.
2. Unmaintained density of varnish or paint leads to the formation of shagreen ("cellulite" or "orange peel" on the body).
3. The appearance of a matte surface, although the paintwork should be shiny.
4. Breakthrough of the coating by escaping air bubbles.

Causes of defects after painting

There are several main reasons why certain defects appear after painting a car.

Dusty room

Among all paintwork defects, debris adhesion during operation occurs in 70% of cases. The reason for this: dust in the garage, a poorly washed car, insufficient ventilation of the room. Painting defects are eliminated by “wet” or “dry” sanding. Sandpaper with an abrasiveness of at least 2000 grit is used if sanding is done by hand. Can be used grinding machine. Polishing of the ground surface is required.

Shagreen

The reason for the appearance of “orange skin” on the body, instead of a beautiful shiny surface, is simple:

1. Using too thick varnish or paint. Often a defect occurs due to the driver’s carelessness; each paintwork has an individual application technology, number of layers, and dilution parameters.
2. Wrong choice of spray gun for painting. With low air pressure in the gun nozzle, the paint is sprayed unevenly on the surface of the body, and the density and thickness of the coating is not maintained.

The defect can be eliminated if the body is properly sanded and polished after the paintwork has completely cured.

Matte

The defect of a matte surface instead of gloss will be noticeable only on the fifth day after painting. If you wet the body with water, it will sparkle in the sun, showing the color that the driver would always like to see on his car. A defect appears if:

1. High room humidity with complete lack of ventilation. If painting is done in winter, the garage should be well heated, the temperature should not fluctuate, falling below 15 degrees and not rising above 25.
2. High pressure in the gun nozzle if painting is carried out with a spray gun (not a production paint cylinder).
3. Incorrectly selected thinner with high cooling parameters and low drying class.

The defect is eliminated by deep polishing of the body.

Air droplet breakthrough

The defect appears a few days after painting. Causes:

• Unsuitable brand of thinner that evaporates quickly;
• Applying thick layers of paint;
• Painting with a second or third layer occurs on an insufficiently dried first layer;
• High drying temperatures or using a hot fan.

The defect is completely eliminated after grinding and deep polishing.

Preparatory stage

Sanding and polishing is carried out no earlier than on the 20th day after painting. This optimal time, when even a thick layer of paintwork dries out. In addition, in the third week all possible surface defects become noticeable.

The preparatory stage before polishing after painting takes a short time. You need to wash your car using car shampoo. The surface of the body is treated with a degreaser, masking tape All rubber bushings and car parts are sealed.

Required tools and materials

To sand the body yourself you will need:

1. Sandpaper for sanding with abrasiveness from 2000 grit.
2. Sanding machine if automatic sanding is used. You can use an electric drill by attaching it to sanding wheels and adjusting the speed of rotation.

To polish a car after painting, use:

• A set of polishes of varying degrees of abrasiveness;
• Felt or leather polishing wheels;
• Spray;
• Felt napkins.

How to polish a car after painting

Work to eliminate painting defects is carried out in several stages: grinding, polishing, applying a protective coating. Depending on the type of defect (if it is dull, for example), initial grinding is not used. The process begins with deep polishing. In other cases, the order of work does not change.

Grinding

Sanding is done using sandpaper. Wet method involves pre-soaking the skin with 2000 grit abrasiveness for 10 minutes. Then the surface of the body is polished in a circular motion, while the paper is constantly wetted.

Dry sanding can be done using a machine. Use sandpaper to remove possible sagging, making cross-shaped movements with the tool. Use sandpaper with an abrasiveness of 3000-4000 grit.

Abrasive polishing

The second stage will be polishing the car after painting, using an abrasive paste. Can be polished by hand or using a polishing machine.

The paste is evenly applied to the surface, choosing a working area of ​​no more than 40 square meters. cm. Polish in a circular motion, gradually changing the composition of the paste, reaching a polishing composition without abrasive. After each paste change, work surface the body needs to be washed.

If the car is painted matte paint, then in 80% of cases gloss will appear after polishing. The composition of the matte varnish should use special clay, which retains its matte finish even after polishing, but in order to preserve the selected color of the car, polishing the matte surface is allowed with pastes without abrasives. After the procedure, protective polishing is mandatory.

If the car is painted in a metallic shade, then special abrasive pastes marked “metallic” from the manufacturer are used for polishing. Abrasive compounds and polishes are not used

Protective polishing

Protective polishing of machines is used as a final step. The polish contains Teflon and wax. Protective coatings can be applied either manually or by machine with a felt or leather attachment.

Before finishing polishing, choose a clean, windless place, protected from direct sunlight.

Polishing a car after painting takes relatively little time if you choose the optimal tool and the necessary polishes. This procedure can be done independently, which will allow you to save money and gain experience, since protective polishing should be carried out every 3-5 months.

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