Technology of laying ceramic tiles. Technology for installing ceramic tiles on the roof Laying ceramic tiles

There are few things that can recreate the atmosphere of romantic Europe with cozy streets and memorable places like natural tiled roofs. Beauty and durability are the main features of this coating.

We are ready to take on the installation of roofs from ceramic tiles for your home, cottage or others functional premises. Professionally and in short time Our roofers will transform your roof, turning it into a masterpiece of roofing art.

Cost of installation of ceramic tiles

If you need to build new roof and cover it with ceramics
	Type of work performed.	Cost, rub.	Unit of measurement.
	Installation scaffolding	From 140 rub.	M. sq.
	Mauerlat installation	From 250 rub.	M. linear
	Installation rafter system	From 600 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of a waterproofing membrane	0t 70 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of counter lathing	From 60 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of step lathing 50x50	From 160 rub.	M. sq.
	Laying ceramic tiles	From 550 rub.	M. sq.
	Construction of valleys, ends, cornices and junctions	From 500 rub.	M. linear
	Installation of a ventilated ridge	From 450 rub.	M. linear
	Installation of tubular snow retention	From 750 rub.	M. linear
	Ventilation comb installation	From 80 rub.	M. linear

If you need it to be warm
	Installation of steam insulation	From 70 rub.	M. sq.
	Internal filing board 25x150mm	From 160 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of insulation 200mm (4x50)	From 130 rub.	M. sq.

Additional accessories. Gutter.
	Gutter installation	From 550 rub.	M. linear
	Installation of a drainpipe	From 450 rub.	M. linear

Eaves part of the roof
	Making a cornice frame (up to 1 meter wide)	From 400 rub.	M. linear
	Lining the cornice with decorative material (soffit lining PSP panel)	From 200 rub.	M.pog

Dormer windows
	Installing a roof window in a finished opening	From 5000 rub.	PC.
	Installation of a roof window with the manufacture of an opening	From 8000 rub.	PC.
	Installation of external window frame (for all types of roofing)	0t 1500 rub.	PC.
	Installation of internal window frame (insulation)	From 600 rub.	PC.

How we are working

Construction of a roof followed by covering with ceramic tiles

The installation of ceramic tiles is carried out in stages. Since ceramic tiles have quite an impressive weight, a special reinforced rafter structure is required for them. In this example you can see how the process of constructing a roof with an area of 1450 square meters occurs. and its covering with ceramic tiles.

Stage 1

Receiving a call from a customer. Discussion of the proposed type of work. Receive the project in electronic form.

Stage 2

Study of the project. Calculation of the cost of materials and work.

Coordination with the customer.

Stage 3

Departure of a specialist to the site. Carrying out measurements of the building to coordinate the dimensions with the project data.

roofing works

Stage 8

Completion of roofing. Hemming of cornices. Installation drainpipes. Dismantling of scaffolding. Delivery of the object to the customer.

The construction of the roof took place in parallel with the internal and external finishing Houses. Despite certain difficulties, the roof was built within three months. The terms agreed upon in the contract were met.

We offer high-quality roofing materials from leading manufacturers. At a relatively low price, you can get a range of services: selection and purchase of tiles in Moscow, their installation and maintenance.

Makes your home stylish, sophisticated and charming. Moreover, such a roof without losing its beauty and shade. But this will only happen if correct installation.

It's worth remembering that this material suitable for roofs with a slope of more than eleven degrees (optimally fifty degrees). And today we will look at the technology for installing ceramic tiles, offer installation instructions and the price of work and materials per m2.

Clay ceramics is a material characterized by its solid weight. Therefore, in addition to arranging a strong rafter system, you need to think about how the tiles will be delivered to the roof. That is, provide suitable lifting equipment.

Transportation of tiles is carried out using special pallets (each weighs about nine hundred and fifty kilograms).

For fastening individual elements For roof sheathing, galvanized (or stainless steel) screws are used, as well as nails and wire. Shingles typically have small keyhole-shaped holes in them. The fastening takes place through these holes. If you need to make additional holes, then use a special roofing tool– a hole punch designed for ceramic tiles.

And special steel cutters allow you to cut pieces evenly ceramic roofing. In addition, roofing pliers with lips of various lengths are produced to work with this material. They are made from durable induction-hardened steel. The rest of the tools are standard: screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver (for sheathing). If you don't have a cutter, you can use a grinder.

About the construction of a ceramic valley tiled roof This video will tell you:

Material calculation

Whatever material the roof is made of, the entire structure must be able to withstand load forces of up to two hundred kilograms per square meter. To make the calculations correctly, add to this value the weight of the ceramic (about fifty kilograms per square meter).

Please note that during installation it is necessary to provide for an overlap depending on the slope of the roof. Its value is ten centimeters if the slope is less than twenty-five degrees.

If the slope is increased (ranging from twenty-five to thirty degrees), then an overlap of seven and a half centimeters will be enough.
And with a slope of over forty-five degrees, this value decreases to four and a half centimeters.

You can calculate the length of the material (useful) if you subtract from the total length of the ceramic part the size of the segment that is necessary to create an overlap. Well, the usable width is usually indicated in the instructions. Based on the numbers obtained, calculate how many tiles will be needed per square meter.

The number of individual roofing elements required to cover the entire length of the slope can be calculated based on their useful length. Dividing these two values by one another, we get the number of rows. We multiply this number by the number of parts in the row and get the total number of tiles for the slope. To determine how much waterproofing is needed, multiply by 1.4 total area stingrays

Another tip: you can use it for accurate calculations of all materials online calculator. There are quite a lot of them on the Internet.

We’ll talk about the technology of ceramic tile roofing below.

Technologies for installing ceramic tiles

First steps

Let's start with the sheathing. For it you will need bars of five by five centimeters (or six by four centimeters). We place along the sections of the eaves wooden parts two centimeters wider than where the ordinary elements are located. The number of horizontal bars in such a sheathing will be equal to the number of rows of tiles with the addition of one more row - a cornice row.

For marking, templates cut to the size (height) of the tiles, as well as coated cord, are used. Horizontal slats are joined on the rafters. The sheathing pitch (optimal) is usually from thirty-one to thirty-four centimeters.

An aero element must be installed under the ridge for ventilation. A waterproof tape is placed along the entire length of the ridge. We should not forget about waterproofing and vapor barrier. There must certainly be space between the sheathing and the layer of tiles.

Before laying the tiles, they are distributed in stacks (about five pieces) over the entire surface of the roof. Then a row is laid on top - along the ridge of the roof. After this, we proceed to fixing the bottom row (along the overhang). We fix the elements only after we check whether they are laid correctly.

Instructions for installing ceramic tiles are presented in the video below:

Direct installation

We carry out installation starting from the bottom of the roof, moving upward. And also from right to left. At the end, ridge and pediment elements are attached. Moreover, the ridge elements should touch the edged ridge board only where they are attached. Where the roof ridge and gable intersect, adjustments will have to be made by cutting the tiles.

The tile itself can be of several types, each of which has its own fastening nuances.

So, if it is a grooved strip tile, then it is laid with the rows overlapping each other, connecting using the existing grooves.
The grooved stamped tiles are laid in the same way (only you will need more wire for them).
But flat tiles of the strip type are devoid of grooves. It is also laid overlapping from bottom to top, with each odd row on the edge containing half a tile (brick laying principle). Protrusions outside and inside, as well as roofing nails, help with fastening.

Some installation tips:

Holes for ventilation must be made under the eaves.
When waterproofing is installed, a slight deflection is left between the rafters. The waterproofing layer is laid with an overlap of fifteen centimeters, securing it with nails at a distance of twenty-five centimeters.
A little more than a meter wide waterproofing is placed under the valleys. The overlap of the tile tiles on the valleys is approximately twenty centimeters.
The thickness of the ridge board (equipped with mandatory aerators) must be at least four centimeters.
By gluing self-adhesive tape (double-sided) to the valley, you can improve the waterproofing.
If the valley is longer than six meters, it is necessary to lay out a row of ventilation tiles.

The cost of installing ceramic tiles is described below.

Cost of work

If you order professionals to install a natural tiled roof, you will have to spend money. It costs about seven hundred rubles per square meter.

This is if all components of the roofing system are standard. But if available complex shape roofs will require additional costs.

A specialist will tell you how to install the ridge and abutments when laying ceramic tiles in the video below:

The technology for laying natural roofing tiles has a number of features that must be observed when performing work. Houses were covered with ceramics hundreds of years ago, but it still has not lost its relevance and popularity among homeowners, despite modern roofing materials that can imitate natural tile coverings quite well. But, unfortunately, not every owner can afford to install ceramic tiles, since they are considered elite materials. Except high cost the material itself, the work on its installation will also be expensive, because beautifully and correctly laid tiles require the participation of highly qualified craftsmen.

Features of ceramic tile roofing

Like anyone else natural material, fired clay tiles have many positive characteristics. But it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is its massiveness. The weight of the ceramic coating ranges from 40 to 70 kg per square meter, which implies reinforcement truss structure. This is achieved either by increasing the cross-section of the rafters, which is not at all necessary, or by decreasing their pitch. But in both cases, material costs increase significantly.

Installation of natural tiles with a roof slope of up to 22 degrees requires the installation of an additional waterproofing layer. And with a slope of more than 50 degrees, the laying technology requires additional fastening of the tile elements with screws or clamps.

Ceramic tiles are capable of creating perfect roofing systems and high-quality roof coverings of any architectural shape.

Additional parts, on the one hand, reduce the time required to complete the work, but some of them, on the contrary, complicate the installation of the roof and increase the time for its installation. The set of piece tiles includes the following elements:

privates;
ridge;
checkpoints;
ventilation;
half;
lateral;
pediment;
decorative.

Among the advantages of tiles and tiled roofing are:

durability (more than 100 years);
noiselessness;
environmental friendliness;
fire resistance;
frost resistance;
absence of static electricity on the surface;
does not require periodic painting;
does not respond to biological influences.

In addition to its heavy weight, the fragility of ceramics is a negative characteristic, so when transporting and laying tiles it should be handled carefully and with care.

Calculation of materials for tiled roofing

Still at the stage design work calculate the materials required for the work. Professionals use special computer programs, allowing you to determine as accurately as possible how much is needed natural tiles, installation of which additional elements will be required, how many fasteners need to be purchased.

If desired approximate calculations The basic materials needed for a tile roof can be produced independently.

Roof tiles

The dimensions of piece tiles have indicators of the total and usable area. To determine its quantity you need to know:

the length and width of each slope, taking into account the slope of the roof and the size of the overhangs;
the useful width of the material indicated by the manufacturer;
the amount of overlap when laying tile rows, depending on the slope of the roof and affecting the useful length of the tiles.

Installation of ceramic tiles with a slope slope of up to 25 degrees is carried out with an overlap of 100 mm, from 25 to 35 degrees - 75 mm, and more than 45 degrees - 45 mm. These indicators are subtracted from the total length of the piece tiles, resulting in a useful length, which is multiplied by the useful width and found out usable area one element.

Next, calculate the number of tiles in one square meter. To do this, the unit is divided by the usable area, expressed in square meters. To find out the total amount of material, the resulting figure is multiplied by square meters roofing, and the results obtained are rounded upward.

It should be noted that calculations must be made for each slope separately. When laying tiles, some parts have to be cut, which ultimately increases the amount of material required for installation.

There is a more accurate, but labor-intensive calculation method. The length of the slope determines the number of tiles that will be laid on the roof, based on the useful length of the element. This indicator determines the number of rows of tiles. Next, the number of tiles in one row is calculated.

The number of rows is multiplied by the number of tiles in a row, and the result is rounded up. In this case, it is recommended to add one row of tiles for each slope for trimming and possible fighting. For complex roofs, the area is divided into simple geometric shapes.

Additional elements for gables and ridges are calculated based on the length of the structures, not forgetting to round the result up.

Waterproofing

On roofs with a slope of up to 22 degrees, a waterproofing layer is installed. To do this, it is recommended to use a rolled membrane, laying it along the ridge and overhangs from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm. It is also required to leave 15 cm overlaps on the gables and overhangs, not forgetting about 15-20 cm overlaps at the locations of protruding corners. Overlaps are also left in areas adjacent to walls, chimneys, ventilation shafts, dormer windows and etc.

The membrane panels do not allow moisture to pass in, but facilitate its removal to the outside. In places where there is an overlap, stick tape onto the film or fasten it to the sheathing using a stapler. Along the perimeter and at the junction points it is fixed with tar paper nails, or wooden slats. The overlaps may only be cut after the installation of the tiles has been completed.

Quantity calculation waterproofing material can be produced using a simplified formula. To do this, the total roof area, taking into account the slope, is multiplied by a factor of 1.4.

Rafters and sheathing

Tile roofing can only be laid on a sufficiently powerful rafter structure. This requirement is based on the large weight of the tiles themselves, to which the snow load is added during calculations, depending on the climatic zone.

Typically, to enhance rafter legs do not use more massive beams, they optimal size is 75*150mm. The strength of the structure is increased by reducing the pitch of the rafters, which is chosen in the range from 60 to 90 cm.

The sheathing for ceramic tiles is made from square beams with a side size of 50mm or rectangular – 40*60mm. Lumber is laid along the eaves, the width of which is 15-20mm greater than that of ordinary elements.

The number of horizontal sheathing beams laid should correspond to the number of rows of tiles plus an additional cornice row.

The location of the beams is marked using a coated cord and templates that match the useful height of the tiles. If it is necessary to join horizontal slats, their connections are placed on the rafter legs.

Fasteners

in places subject to increased wind load;
the entire row along the cornice;
on the gables and along the ridge;
on roofs with a slope of more than 50 degrees (through one element).

Based on these requirements, fastening elements are calculated.

Installation of ceramic tiles

To ensure the normal operation of a tiled roof, care should be taken to ensure its ventilation in advance. The presence of a waterproofing layer implies the construction of two air gaps, one of which should be located between the thermal and waterproofing, and the second between the waterproofing membrane and the roofing.

This design promotes good under-roof ventilation and does not allow moisture to accumulate in wooden elements roofs and insulation.

In the first case, the gap is provided by installing sheathing or installing additional timber along the ridge. But there is no need for an air gap if a membrane film is installed as waterproofing. In the second case, the gap appears due to the counter-lattice.

Air flow occurs through ventilation holes located at the bottom of the slopes. Outflow air masses carried out through aerators and special holes located in the ridge structure. At large area It is recommended to install ventilation windows on the gables of the roof to facilitate rapid ventilation of the under-roof space.

Before laying the tiles, they are evenly laid out over the entire surface of the roof in stacks of 5-6 pieces. This must be done on all slopes at once so that the rafter structure cannot warp under the weight of heavy tile tiles.

First, lay the top row of tiles along the ridge and the bottom row along the overhang, without attaching the tiles to the sheathing. If the layout is successful, the cornice row is fixed and the installation of tiles continues from bottom to top in the direction from right to left. The material is attached in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, the ridge and gable parts are laid.

An edged board is mounted on the ridge edge so that it does not touch the ridge elements, except for the attachment points. At the intersection of the pediment and the ridge, the tiles are adjusted in place by cutting ceramic parts. It is recommended to cut it on the ground using a grinder.

Ceramic roofing is very beautiful, but quite expensive. If you good master, you can try to save on installation. Now I will tell you how to lay ceramic tiles yourself.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of tiles, you need to know the size of the roof, but not only that. The tiles are laid with an overlap, the amount of overlap is determined depending on the slope of the slope:

Up to 16 degrees – from 10 cm;
Up to 30 – from 8;
Over 30 – from 7.

Ceramic tiles are laid on the roof using counter-lattice and sheathing. The second serves as a solid base for the coating, the first provides the necessary ventilation gap.

For the sheathing, sawn coniferous timber with a maximum moisture content of 25%, without knots, is used (SNiP, paragraph II-25-80).

The pitch of the sheathing (and therefore the number of boards) depends on the slope of the roof and on the model of the tile (order - from 30 centimeters);
The minimum cross-section of beams for sheathing and counter-lattice is 3 by 5 centimeters;
For complex roofs or long slopes, use a square beam with a side of 5 cm.

To calculate the amount of material and its final cost, you can use the services of our company.

Ventilation and thermal insulation

The technology for laying ceramic tiles involves a device ventilation system in the under-roof space. This is necessary so that inside roofing pie condensation did not accumulate, which leads to the destruction of the insulation and rafter system.

There are two options for constructing a roofing pie. In both cases, the main layers are the same:

Vapor barrier (bottom layer);
Insulation;
Waterproofing.

The difference between single-layer and double-layer ventilation is that in the single-layer version there is only one air layer, directly between the waterproofing and the roof. Two-layer means the presence of two layers, the second - between the waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of technology depends on the waterproofing material. Only membranes with a vapor permeability of at least 750 grams per square can be placed directly on the insulation, which will protect the insulation from moisture and drain condensation to the outside.

note

The total height of the ventilation gap must be at least 20 centimeters. With a two-layer scheme, about two centimeters are left from the insulation to the film.

Apart from the device air gaps For roof ventilation when laying ceramic tiles, special elements are used:

Skates;
Cornice.

The types of elements are different:

Hard aerators;
Rolled ventilation films;
Ventilation grates;
Ventilation tiles.

Elements are selected depending on the type and slope of the roof.

The brand of insulation and layer thickness depend on the region. Examples (for roofs in the Moscow region):

Mineral wool P175 (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.072) – 40 centimeters;
Fiberglass (coefficient 0.044) s windproof membrane– 24 centimeters;
Expanded polystyrene (0.032) - 15 centimeters.

Insulation and waterproofing

The vapor barrier layer is attached to the rafters from the inside (from the ceiling) with vertical and horizontal overlaps of at least twenty centimeters.
Fixed with wooden slats. In the future, when arranging the ceiling, the panels (boards) should not come into contact with the vapor barrier.
The insulation is cut into blanks according to the width of the step between the rafters and placed between the rafters in a spacer.

Installation options for the top waterproofing layer

Installation of the film directly onto the insulation is carried out with the steam-removing side facing outwards, i.e. towards the roof covering.
The film should be rolled out along the cornice along the rafters, starting from the bottom row.
The recommended overlap when installing the next row is approximately 10 cm for steep roofs. If the slope is less than 22 degrees, it is increased to 20 cm or the joints are taped with double-sided tape.

note

The film is secured with a stapler or roofing nails and finally fixed with counter-lattice boards.

Other methods:

When using polyethylene-based membranes, the film is pulled over the rafters with a sag of one or two centimeters. At the same time, at least two centimeters should remain from it to the insulation. In cold weather, the film is stretched without sagging.
With a small roof slope (within 16 centimeters), a welded roof can be used as a waterproofing layer. To do this, it is necessary to make a continuous flooring and fill it with trapezoidal counter-lattice slats up to 5 centimeters thick.

Our works

Lathing and counter-lattice

Along the rafters, on top of the waterproofing film, we lay counter-lattice bars approximately 1.3 meters long.
We fix it with galvanized nails every 0.3 meters not higher than the marker line on the film.
At the joints of opposite beams on the ridge, we saw the boards at an angle so that the joint is even. The angle of the cut will depend on the slope of your roof.
Between the beams of the valley or hip ridge and the main counter-lattice we leave a ventilation gap of about 10 centimeters.
We lay the sheathing bars parallel earth's surface, starting from the overhangs.
The step between the first two bars (on the overhang) is from 32 to 39 cm (measured along the outer edges of the bars).
We place the third block under the ridge, at a distance of three centimeters from the joint of the counter-lattice bars. If the roof is steeper than 30 degrees - at a distance of two centimeters.
We measure the distance between the second and third beams along their upper edges.
We divide the resulting figure by the number of intermediate bars so that the step between them does not exceed the recommended parameters:

Roof slope up to 22 degrees – 31-32 cm.
Up to 30 – up to 33.5;
Over 30 – up to 34.5.

We install the sheathing on other slopes in the same way.

How to lay ceramic tiles

Attention: in this article I will only tell you how to lay ordinary ceramic tiles, i.e. on the slopes. In addition to slopes, the roof has other nodes:

Endovy;
Ridge (except hipped roofs);
Cornices;
Connections (to pipes, roof windows, etc.);
Gables have pediments;
The hip and tent ones have ridges.

Another article is devoted to the installation of all these elements.

Tile laying technology:

Check the roof prepared for laying ceramic tiles for deviations from the plane. For two meters of roof, deviations for sheathing beams should not exceed half a centimeter.
Lay out the tiles on opposite slopes in columns of five to six tiles.
Lay out two rows, top and bottom, without fastening. If the length of the roof and the width of the tiles are non-multiple numbers, use half tiles.
Mark the outer rows of tiles on the sheathing. Additional marking - after 3-5 intermediate rows.
The bottom row of shingles should extend beyond the roof by one-third the diameter of the gutter running under the eaves.
Lay tiles from bottom to top. Secure the first row with 4.5 mm by 5 centimeter screws or anti-wind clamps.
For two pitched roofs ah, the tiles are laid in the direction from one end to the other.
On the hips - from the middle of the slope, which needs to be beaten off with a marking cord from the top to the middle of the cornice.

note

You need to lay tiles on triangular slopes in the following order:

Middle vertical row;
Bottom horizontal row:
Second row from the bottom, from the middle to the ridges;
Third, etc. to the top.

Which tiles should be fastened with hardware?

Bottom row (cornice);
Upper (at the ridge);
Lateral (at the ends and ridges);
Any trimmed tiles;
At the junctions.

If the area is characterized by high wind loads, all tiles must be secured.

For different models of tiles, 4.5 by 50 galvanized screws (self-tapping screws) or universal stainless steel clamps can be used.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands is a long and energy-intensive process that requires an installer highly qualified. Moreover, we are talking about expensive material.

At our company great experience styling roofing coverings, ceramic tiles are no exception. Entrust this matter to us, and you will receive a beautiful quality roofing quickly and inexpensively.

The construction of the truss structure of a pitched roof is carried out in accordance with the norms and requirements of SNiP current in Russia.

Particular attention should be paid to the climatic features of the region where the building is located. Both wind and snow loads(V winter time) vary significantly depending on geographic location.

Roofing materials such as tiles are intended only for pitched roofs. MetroTile® composite shingles can be used on roofs with a slope of at least 12 degrees.

Modern architectural solutions often provide for a complex roof configuration, where some elements have a smaller slope than the main slopes. In such areas of the roof, composite tiles can only be used in decorative purposes with 100% waterproofing.

Figure 5-1.1 shows general scheme designs. Waterproofing is placed on top of the rafters, which are sawn vertically. The sheets of waterproofing material are mounted horizontally, from the eaves from bottom to top, with vertical overlaps of at least 150 mm and horizontal overlaps of about 100 mm. At the same time, as Stroymet specialists note, the waterproofing should sag between the rafters by 100-200 mm.

The joining of the sheets of waterproofing material is carried out on the rafters. The very first canvas should hang over the edge of the rafters by at least 10 centimeters. Near the ridge of the roof, the waterproofing does not reach the ridge itself by about 10 centimeters. This is necessary for roof ventilation.

The pitched roof has two ventilation ducts - VK-1 and VK-2 (see Fig. 5.1-2). The first is located above the waterproofing, and the second - below.

Rice. 5.1-2 – A

Rice. 5.1-2 – B

VK-1 is formed using a counter-lattice, for which bars with a cross-section of 50 by 50 mm are usually used. The lower end of the counter-lattice should protrude beyond the edge of the rafter at a distance of up to 4 centimeters.

If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 20 degrees, then it is recommended to use a 50 by 75 mm block for the counter-lattice. In this case, the section ventilation duct BK-1 increases, as shown in Fig. 5.1-2-V.

The roof structure may include elements such as valleys. Taking their name from ancient Russian narrow and long vessels, roof valleys help to quickly remove excess moisture- including in the case of prolonged slanting rains.

If there are valleys in the roofing project, then the installation of waterproofing and counter-lattice should begin with them.

When installing thermal and waterproofing, it should be borne in mind that there must be a ventilation duct between them, which is designated in the diagrams as VK-2. It is necessary to prevent condensation from forming on the roof, which sub-zero temperature turns to ice.

Only if the latest super-diffusive Tyvek material is used in roof waterproofing, the installation of a VK-2 ventilation duct is not necessary.

Installation of sheathing

The roof sheathing with a distance between the rafters of up to 1 meter (in Fig. 5.2-1 it is indicated by the letter “W”, that is, the pitch of the rafters) is made from bars with a cross-section of 50x50 millimeters. If the pitch of the rafters is larger, the cross-section of the sheathing bars should also be increased. At the same time, the moisture content of the wood from which the sheathing is constructed cannot be higher than 20% of the dry weight.

The laths are installed from bottom to top. In Fig. 5.2-1, the lower bar is designated by number 1, and the top - 4. The lowest bar is attached 2 cm from the end of the grille (see callout I in the same figure), and the first row of tile sheets from the bottom is fixed on it.

The bars used in the sheathing must cover the length of at least 2 spans between the rafters, and the lower edges of adjacent rows of sheathing must be strictly 370 mm apart from each other. This is exactly the length standard sheet composite tiles in all five MetroTile® collections. Consequently, only such a step between the battens makes it possible to create a lock at the junction of the tile sheets, which plays a key role both in functional terms (waterproofing the roof and its protection from wind loads) and in aesthetic terms (attractive appearance).

Figure 5.2-1 shows templates with which you can accurately check the distance between the sheathing bars. They are quite simple to manufacture and greatly simplify the work.

Distance from top row roofing sheathing to the roof ridge - this is a special parameter that is determined separately in each project. In Fig. 5.2-1 (callouts II and III) it is designated by the letter “A”. The ideal rafter length would be one at which this parameter would also be 370 mm, but other options are possible, which are described in more detail below.

Let us dwell especially on the ridge bars of the sheathing:

Callout II of Figure 5.2-1 shows the fastening of the semicircular elements of the ridge. In this case, the sheathing bars are placed at a distance of 13 cm on both sides of the roof ridge.
If rib elements of the ridge are used, then the sheathing bars should be trimmed and placed 120 mm from the ridge, as shown in callout III.
If there are valleys, the battens should be located at a distance of 18 centimeters from the center line of the valley.

Work on the roof eaves begins with the installation of a 40 mm thick eaves board. The cornice board is firmly nailed to the rafters.

If the project involves the installation of gutters, then brackets for gutters are attached to the eaves board (Fig. 5.3-1, callout II). If the creation of drains is not planned, then on the eaves board it is necessary to install a condensate drip, which can be made from cornice strip, as shown in Figure 5.3-2. When calculating the need for materials, Stroymet specialists note that the consumption of cornice strips approximately doubles.

On next stage The first cornice element from the edge is secured with 4 nails. Then the following cornice elements are installed in the same way with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters.

Important!

Since the reliability of roof waterproofing and the functionality of under-roof ventilation directly depend on the correct installation of eaves elements, during work you must make sure of the following:

Curtain board covered on top waterproofing film, and at the same time free flow of condensate into the gutter or drip is ensured.
The drip edge of the eaves strip is routed into the drainage system.
Between the waterproofing layer and the eaves element there is sufficient space for air flow into the under-roof ventilation channel, indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 5.3-1 (callouts I and II), as VK-1.
The eaves lining has channels that provide air flow into the under-roof ventilation channel, indicated by a dotted line in the same figure as VK-2.

Installation of tiles on a roof slope

Laying sheets of composite tiles is carried out with an overlap so that the bottom row goes under the top. After one row of sheets is secured on the top side, these sheets should be lifted in order to place the sheets of the next (lower) row under them. After this, the top of the new sheets is nailed to the sheathing bars along with the bottom of the sheets of the higher row.

Tile sheets are placed in a checkerboard pattern with lateral overlap and offset. In Fig. 5.4-1, the lateral overlap is indicated by the letter B, and the offset is indicated by the letter S.

Different collections of MetroTile® composite tiles have their own recommendations for calculating offset and overlap parameters. In some cases, the basis for calculation is the integer number of tile waves, in others - Exact size in millimeters.

Rice. 5.4-1 - A

Rice. 5.4-1 - B

In areas of overlap, a maximum of three sheets of composite tiles are allowed to overlap.

The following diagrams (Fig. 5.4-1, A and B) show the order of laying sheets depending on the prevailing wind direction in a given area. Since the entire roof structure is subject to constant wind loads, it is extremely important to take into account the wind direction when installing tiles!

Attaching the tile sheets to the sheathing also depends on the selected collection. The sequence of driving nails and the specific points at which they should be driven are indicated in Figure 5.4-2 - it must be taken into account that nails 1-4 are used if a new sheet of tile on the left side is superimposed on the previous one. If the sheet occupies the last place in the row, then its free edge is secured with nail 4a.

The nails are driven in at an angle of 45° to the surface of the sheet (Fig. 5.4-2, callout I). This should be done manually, and you should stand on the surface of the already mounted tiles and move along it as shown in Fig. 5.4-3.

To ensure that the nails do not stand out against the background decorative covering tiles, they can be painted over acrylic paint and covered with basalt topping. Both are included in the repair kit.

Rice. 5.4-4 - A

Rice. 5.4-4 - B

As mentioned above, the top row of tiles at the ridge, unlike the other rows, does not have a fixed size. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of this row of sheets, it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between the top beam of the sheathing on the slope and the ridge beam.

If the distance (in Fig. 5.4-4 - A it is indicated by the letter “A”) is 370 mm, then the top sheets of tiles can be fastened in exactly the same way as all the previous ones.

Distance A from 250 to 370 mm also allows the use of entire tile sheets in the top row. However, in this case, one row shifts to another, and Stroymet specialists advise taking care to maintain the required values of the maximum snow and wind load. For this purpose, you should drive not four, but eight nails per sheet, both from above and from below (see Fig. 5.4-4 - B).

Otherwise, the sheet is fastened on the top side in the usual manner, while from the bottom the nails need to be driven into the top of the sheet profile. In this case, a sealant is placed between the sheets.

Rice. 5.4-4 - C

The greatest difficulties arise when distance A is less than 250 mm. This eliminates the possibility of using entire sheets of shingles in the top row. Therefore, the sheets need to be shortened. How to do this is shown in Fig. 5.4-4 - S.

In order to prevent deformation of the sheets or reduce it, you should first make a hem at a distance A from the edge of the sheet. Hem and cut lines are marked on the sheet (the second is 50 mm further than the first) and then using manual or special tool the sheet bends upward.

Both manual and special tools can also be used to cut the sheet.

Shortened sheets of tiles are nailed to the upper laths with nails - 8 pieces for each sheet.

On the gable, the roofing sheets should be mounted flush with the ends of the battens, as shown in Fig. 5.5-1. The edges of the sheets should be bent upward at a right angle using a hand bending tool (at a distance of about 30-40 mm from the edge). At this point, a universal self-adhesive seal is glued to the sheets (Fig. 5.5-2 and 5.5-3).

The most important element of the pediment is the wind board, which has a cross-section of 25 by 130 millimeters and is attached to the ends of the sheathing bars with nails (Fig. 5.5-3).

Important! The wind board should be installed in such a way that when installing the end strip, its figured teeth only slightly touch the surface of the tile sheets.

Installation of the end strips is carried out from the bottom up. At the bottom strip - the first from the cornice - the end should be closed with a special plug (Fig. 5.5-4).

The end plate plug must be inserted inside it, sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws.

Before attaching the end strips, they must be placed on end board and only after making sure that they are all laid out correctly and evenly can you begin fixing.

Each plank is nailed to the wind board with five or six nails.

Rice. 5.5-5 – A

Rice. 5.5-5 – B

For decorative purposes, the end strip on the pediment can be replaced with a semicircular ridge.

In Figure 5.5-5 - A you can see the cross-section of the end plate fastening unit on the pediment. In Fig. 5.5-5 - B demonstrated a special case, when the total thickness of the roofing pie is more than 130 mm. It requires inclusion in the design additional element- an apron, which is made from a flat roofing sheet and placed under end strip, as shown in the diagram.

The roofing elements of the rib ridge are installed with an overlap of 100 mm. If the ridge is semicircular, then its elements are placed with an overlap of 45 mm and form a kind of lock.

Both ribbed and semicircular elements are nailed to the ridge bars of the sheathing with 50 mm nails in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.6-1 or 5.6-2.

For the skate pitched roof Stroymet specialists recommend using a bent flat sheet, as shown in Fig. 5.6-3. The bend angle depends on the thickness of the rafters and the slope of the roof slope. If necessary (usually for aesthetic reasons), semicircular ridge elements can be fixed on top of such a ridge.

To prevent the penetration of water and snow into the space between the upper part of the sheathing and the ridge elements, it is recommended to place a universal seal in this place.

The elements of the semicircular ridge should be positioned as shown in Fig. 5.6-4 taking into account the prevailing direction of wind flows.

The ends of semicircular and ribbed skates can be covered with special covers (Fig. 5.6-5).

A hip roof has triangular slopes, which creates some specific difficulties when installing composite tiles on such a roof.

Figure 5.7-1 shows a diagram of the installation of bars with a section of 50 by 50 mm on top of the roof sheathing along the hip ridge. If the ridge is semicircular, then the distance between the outer edges of these bars should be 150-160 mm, but if the ridge is ribbed, then 120-130 mm is sufficient.

MetroTile® Composite Shingles that will be adjacent to the hip should be trimmed as shown in Figure. 5.7-2. Before cutting, to reduce deformations, the sheet should be folded (Fig. 5.7-3). The fold line must correspond to the required sheet size, and the cutting line is marked with an allowance of 50 mm. You need to bend the sheet vertically upward, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is recommended that measurements and marking of bending and cutting lines be carried out directly on the roof, while preparation is best done on the ground.

Before installing the ridge elements, additional seals must be laid along the hip ridge beam. Otherwise, the installation of hip ridges does not differ from the installation of ridge elements on a conventional roof (in accordance with the recommendations set out in the previous section).

Features of installing semicircular ridge elements on hip roof shown in Fig. 5.7-4.

On both sides of the longitudinal axis of the valley it is necessary to install wooden blocks cross section 50 by 50 millimeters. Waterproofing is placed on top of these bars, which in no case should be pulled or secured with nails.

5 centimeters from the bars under the valley, counter-lattice bars are installed with a cut-out section of 25 by 150 mm, which is a quarter of the bar. A support board under the valley should be laid here, the cross-section of which is exactly the same - 25x150 mm.

The ends of the purlins coming into the valley are attached to support board and are cut at a distance of 200 mm from the valley axis. At the same time, cavities are formed under them, necessary for removing condensate from the under-roof space and ensuring air circulation in it.

The valley elements are attached to the support board with 40 mm self-tapping screws. Installation of elements begins from the bottom of the roof. In this case, the upper screws are located 30 mm from the edge of the element and at the maximum distance from the valley axis.

The following elements are pushed into the previous ones, and the overlap should be at least 150 mm. They are also screwed with self-tapping screws to the support board.

Stroymet specialists recommend installing a universal seal along the side of the valley.

Before installation, you can bend the side edge of the roofing sheet adjacent to the valley down, as shown in Fig. 5.8-2. In this case, the distance from the valley to the bend of the sheet should be about 10-15 mm.

Attention! When working on the design of a tiled roof, you should keep in mind that the valley elements are supplied without basalt topping.

All ventilation and heating pipes tiles facing the roof must be plastered before installation of tiles begins. Bends and overlaps are not allowed on pipes.

The installation diagram of roofing elements on the roof sections adjacent to the pipes is shown in Fig. 5.9-1 and 5.9-2. In the first of them you see section A - in a plane that is parallel to the rafters (on the callout on the left you can see how it looks on the scale of the entire building).

The apron shown in the diagram is attached to a pipe or to a wall using self-tapping screws and dowels.

Figure 5.9-2 shows section B. Here the section plane is perpendicular to the roof rafters:

Installation of tiles on external and internal slope fractures

If the roof slope has an external fracture, then in this place the roofing sheets are mounted in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.10-1.

In Fig. Figure 5.10-2 shows how to install composite shingles on an internal slope fracture. In this case, the step between the sheathing bars at the fracture is, as a rule, greater than the usual 370 mm. The figure in the diagram is indicated conditionally - the actual distance depends on the angle of inclination of both slopes and is specified during installation of the sheathing.

Installation of end and side connections to the wall

The connection to the wall is designed in the same way as the connection to the pipe - that is, in accordance with the diagrams in Fig. 5.9-1 and fig. 5.9-2 and materials of the corresponding chapter.

Installation of complex roof fragments

MetroTile® flat roofing sheet is designed to cover difficult roofing areas - for example, cone-shaped or semi-circular ones. This sheet must be cut into fragments the desired shape, which are then fixed to a continuous sheathing of edged boards, moisture resistant plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) or other materials.

Installation of a roof window

Dormers that are installed in roof openings covered with MetroTile® tiles must have flashings specifically designed for high profile roofing materials. At Stroymet you can buy a complete set of roof windows - with frame and elements for sealing. We offer windows for the attic and. Also, when preparing the base for installation of a MetroTile® roof, you need to take into account in advance the size of the attic window, the distance between the rafters and the sheathing.

The dimensions of the opening for the attic window are calculated so that it is 40-60 millimeters wider and 45 millimeters higher than the window itself (Figure 5.13).

In addition, the sheathing bars directly adjacent to the window frame should be prepared so that the level of the flashing is 25 millimeters below the sheathing. To do this, a quarter is selected in the appropriate bars to a depth of 25 mm and the width of the window frame.

At the bottom of the window, the roof sheathing must be reinforced. Specific amplification parameters are usually specified in the supplier's instructions skylights.

Applications of MetroTile® Clear Sheets

The installation of skylights is the only acceptable way to ensure the penetration of light rays through an insulated roof.

However, if we are talking about the construction of canopies and open terraces, as well as the lighting of cold attics, then another lighting method can be used - using transparent MetroTile® sheets.

In their shape and size, they do not differ from ordinary roofing sheets, so their installation does not involve any difficulties and does not require the use of additional accessories. The peculiarity of transparent sheets is that they are made from polymer material- polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Thanks to this, they allow light to pass through.

If the slope of the roof slope does not reach extreme values above 40 degrees, then the very structure of the MetroTile® composite tiles prevents the avalanche-like descent of snow masses.

However, in some cases, the installation of snow guards is required in accordance with SNiPs. They are also necessary when the slope angles are too large.

Snow guards can be installed in accordance with the diagrams in Figures 5.14-1 and 5.14-2.

MetroTile ® roofing materials can be successfully used not only in the construction of new buildings, but also during the renovation of existing ones, including the installation of tiles over the existing roof. If existing roof has become dilapidated, has begun to leak, or has become morally obsolete, then there is no need to remove it.

Composite shingles can be laid on old corrugated sheet roofing, as well as on standing seam roofing or shingles.

The counter-lattice on the corrugated sheet is made from bars of such a cross-section that their upper edge is higher than the ridges of the corrugated sheet. The pitch between the bars of the counter-lattice should not exceed 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-1).

It is even easier to install the counter-lattice on flexible or seam tiles. Here, standard bars with a cross section of 50 by 50 millimeters are used with a step of exactly 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-2).

If dilapidated roof leaks, Stroymet specialists recommend laying an additional layer of waterproofing material above it, as shown in Figure 5.15-3.

If old roof has a bitumen coating, it may be necessary to additional insulation(Fig. 5-15-4).

In all cases, a sheathing is mounted on top of the counter-lattice, to which sheets of MetroTile ® composite shingles are attached in accordance with the instructions in these instructions.