Do-it-yourself lean-to greenhouses made from profile pipes. How to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands - a detailed guide

When we build a house, we start with a drawing; when we build a garage, we start with a design and a drawing. What’s worse is a greenhouse, is it the same structure as any other? Therefore the drawing in in this case mandatory, besides, we want to tell you one secret - profile pipes are used specifically for the construction of stationary greenhouses.

Therefore, it is better to think through everything once, depict it graphically and build it according to the proposed drawings, than then redo it, adjust it, and, in general, pay extra for your own mistakes and blunders.

What we take into account when designing

Greenhouse diagram from profile pipe should take into account the following points:

• The material from which the structure will be constructed. Here you can add material that will be used to cover the greenhouse itself;

Information!
Looking ahead, I would like to say that the profile product requires covering with polycarbonate sheets or glass; covering occurs extremely rarely.
Firstly, a pipe is a serious structure, and its frame is powerful and non-dismountable.
The frame remains at its post for the winter, but the film must be removed; secondly, the film coating is short-lived and it is more reasonable to use it with more lightweight materials, for example, with PVC pipes or reinforcing bars (the price of which will be clearly lower than the price of basic products).
But if you use the film in summer time, it is better to cover the metal base, either with newspapers or a fabric base, to avoid the temperature effect of the heated metal on a fairly thin film sheet.

• Frame type. Greenhouse projects made from profile pipes offer at least five types of frames;
• Type of foundation. There are three basic types, although specifically for frames made of profile material Tape or piles with a grillage would be preferable.

Interesting to know!
We will, of course, analyze the foundations, but I would like to say that the base in the form of a wooden box for metal frames they are practically not used in the form of profile products; a wooden independent box for a frame made of a 20x20 mm pipe is extremely rarely used, but this is more the exception than the rule.

If everything is clear with the materials, we’ll start designing

The arched design is the most popular.

But the drawings of greenhouses made from profile pipes come in five types:

1. Arched structures. Semicircular roof slopes are good, but bending a 20x40 product into an arc is quite problematic; most likely, this service will have to be ordered and paid for separately.
2. Gable skeletons - a hut with a transparent roof and walls, that's the whole project of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe.
3. A building with a polygonal roof. Drawings of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe suggest bringing the roof structure as close as possible to a hemisphere, without bending the material. In this case, the roof slope consists of five fragments.
4. Wall frame. This design involves the construction of stationary greenhouses and winter gardens. And although the frame itself is quite simple in relation to its counterparts, the labor costs for constructing such a greenhouse will be much greater, since most often it is a stationary greenhouse for year-round use with everything that follows from this.
5. Pyramid shape. The drawing of a greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe assumes the shape of two pyramids connected to each other at the bases, while the lower pyramid is cut off by 2/3. This is a rather interesting, but still experimental form of greenhouse.

We will install the frame on a base, it is important which one

To install the frame, supports are needed, and the more serious the frame, the stronger the foundation.

For a heavier frame skeleton made of 20x40 mm pipe, two types of foundation are applicable:

• Monolithic tape. This is a fairly strong foundation, capable of holding even more powerful structures than a pipe skeleton. When constructing it, it is necessary to remember following rules: the foundation for year-round use must be at least 20 cm wide and deep to the depth of soil freezing, and must be insulated.
  The tape itself is reinforced for strength, while the reinforcement in the corners is reinforced with additional metal pins or elements, the entire reinforcement team is fastened to each other, forming a three-dimensional skeleton. The tape comes out of the ground, forming a base, at least 30 cm;

• Piles. There can be monolithic reinforced concrete, prefabricated brick, as well as metal, which are installed using special equipment. Each element is erected according to the principle, one at a time in the corners and then every 1.5-2 meters.
  All piles are connected to each other by a grillage, which can be made in the form of a shallow foundation strip, or can be in the form metal channel. The joining of the metal frame and the concrete base occurs using anchors, metal to metal can be fastened by welding, or by bolts.

Advice!
Regardless of the base on which you install the frame, waterproofing must be installed between the base and the structure.
You can use roofing felt and bitumen, heated to a wet state, for a strip foundation assembled from brick or reinforced concrete surface.
Metal channel or wide square pipe it is necessary to additionally coat it with an anti-corrosion compound, and then simply lay roofing felt.

• For lightweight structures can be used wooden beam new frame, or you can use the products themselves as bases, extending 50 cm and being a continuation of the main vertical frame ribs, which are buried in the ground.

Finally

Any structure can be assembled with your own hands and quickly enough; you may have to tinker with the foundation, but it all depends on how you are going to operate your structure, that’s all the instructions. (see also article). The video in this article also prepared its view on the topic.

Good afternoon, dear reader! Many garden crops grow seedling method. But to obtain a rich harvest, the seedlings must be healthy, with a well-developed root system and a strong stem. I can't grow one in open ground.

The conclusion suggests itself: I need a greenhouse made of a profile pipe at my dacha. With my own hands I will grow not only seedlings in it, but also early vegetables, other heat-loving crops. In this article I will describe in detail the entire construction process.

You can create it yourself from profiled metal, but I want to highlight several basic forms of frame greenhouses.

Arched

In greenhouses of this type, the lower parts of the wall frame elements are vertical, and the upper parts are bent into an arc, closed by an arch. These elements are connected to each other into a single structure by horizontal ties. Arched greenhouses (pictured below) are more resistant to wind loads and can be quickly assembled with your own hands. They let in a lot of light inner space, therefore more suitable for growing light-loving crops.

Lancet

The cross-section of a lancet greenhouse has the shape of a slightly curved arch, elongated in height and pointed at the end. A correctly calculated structure of this type is resistant to deformation like a classic arched greenhouse, but due to the elongated shape of the upper part it better resists snow loads. Snowdrifts do not accumulate on the ridge: the snow quickly rolls down under its own weight.

Pyramidal

Pyramid greenhouse - compact, unusual look greenhouse with a lot of advantages. It is a structure whose walls are triangular in shape, inclined inward at a slight angle and converge at the top at one point.

The pyramid greenhouse is very stable. It will withstand strong gusts of wind and snowfall. Snow simply will not stay on its surfaces.

Due to the inclined position of the edges, there is a special system in the greenhouse natural light. The sun's rays are almost not reflected from their surface in the morning and evening, but penetrate inside. During the midday heat, on the contrary, they reflect their direct hit, protecting plants from overheating.

Which type is better to choose

For year-round use, it is better to build an arched greenhouse with your own hands. Thanks to its streamlined shape, natural precipitation does not accumulate on its surface. It is resistant to gusts of wind, well lit, and has fewer connections. In addition, this configuration allows for better heat retention to additionally install doors and vents for ventilation.

A gable greenhouse with a house is more convenient for use in spring-summer period. It provides enough light, but in winter its roof needs to be cleared of snow.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a homemade greenhouse made from a profile pipe are obvious:

1. They are able to withstand high mechanical loads.
2. Well lit, transmit enough light to grow a variety of crops.
3. Durable. The service life of such a greenhouse is at least 30 years.
4. Fire resistant.
5. Mobile. They can be moved, quickly disassembled with your own hands and reassembled, reduced or added to the number of sections.
6. Metallic profile - available material. It can be purchased at many hardware stores.
7. It is easier to attach communication elements from inside the building to a profile pipe, for example, systems automatic watering, additional heating and lighting.

But such designs also have disadvantages:

1. High cost of profile rental.
2. The weight of the frame is quite large, which requires the construction of a solid foundation.
3. Poor flexibility.

What is stronger: profile or pipe

For a profile pipe, the load is distributed evenly over four faces. This provides it with greater resistance to torsion, tension, and lateral loads.

Which pipes are suitable and how many are needed?

Profile pipes are produced with a protective coating of polymer paint or zinc. Painted ones are cheaper, but over time the paint may peel off and the steel profile will begin to rust. Galvanized profile pipes are more resistant to corrosion and temperature changes; they are more suitable for building a greenhouse with your own hands, inside which a high humidity regime is initially expected.

The lower frame and frame arches of a small homemade greenhouse measuring 6 by 3 m can be welded from a 20x40 mm profile pipe, the lintels can be welded from a square profile with a cross section of 20x20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5–3 mm.

How many meters of professional pipe are needed for a 6-meter greenhouse?

When calculating the number of profiles for construction arched greenhouse it is necessary to take into account that the arches are installed in increments of 1 meter. Thus, you will need:

1. For the base of the frame: 3+3+6+6 =18 m.
2. Vertical parts of the walls (0.75 m) taking into account the depth (0.25 m) into the foundation structure: (0.75+0.25) * 14 pcs. = 14 m.
3. Arc-shaped wall elements. The circumference is determined by the formula c = 2πr. The radius of the circle is equal to the difference between the height of the greenhouse (2.1 m) and the straight section of the walls (0.75 m). The length of the arc-shaped elements from the profile pipe will be half the circumference. The total number of profiles for the manufacture of all arcs will be: (2.1-0.75) * 3.14 * 7 pcs. = 29.67 m.
4. Horizontal guides: 6*4 pcs. + 2.8*2 pcs. = 29.6 m.
5. Spacers: 1.5*4 pcs. = 6 m.
6. Doors at two ends: (0.95*2+2*2)*2*2 = 23.6 m.

In total, to assemble the frame with your own hands, the total length of the rolled profile is 18+14+29.67+29.6+6+23.6 = 120.87 m. Considering that the length of the rolled product is 6.05 m, you should buy at least 20 whips.

Instructions on how to build a greenhouse from corrugated pipe with your own hands

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, then calculate its cost in advance and specify the types of work. This way you will be sure that you have enough finances and skills to complete the project.

Choosing a site for construction, marking the territory

The criteria for choosing a location for a greenhouse made from corrugated pipe should be the following factors:

1. Geological composition of the soil. The design of the foundation depends on it. It is good if it is sandy soil in a dry place on a hill. The clay composition of the soil in the lowlands usually accumulates excess moisture, which significantly accelerates corrosion processes in the load-bearing elements of the profile pipe frame. Excess moisture in the soil also negatively affects plant roots: they can rot.
2. Features of the relief. It is advisable to choose an area with a flat surface. On a flat area it is easier to ensure the stability of the structure and uniform distribution of light inside.
3. Illumination. One of the long sides of the profile pipe greenhouse should be turned to the south. This arrangement allows for greater penetration of sunlight into the building. This may be a remote place where the greenhouse will not be shadowed by trees, a residential building or outbuildings throughout the day, and if it happens, then only in the first half of the day.

Drawings, diagrams with dimensions

Do-it-yourself construction of even a small-sized greenhouse from a profile pipe must begin with design. The diagram will help you more accurately calculate the required amount of material.

In this case, special attention should be paid to drawing up a drawing of the end part of the greenhouse. There is an entrance door in it; it is desirable that its width is sufficient for the entry of a standard garden cart. In the example, I presented a design project for an arched greenhouse made of profile pipes.

Drawing end side:

Required tools and materials

To build a greenhouse from profile pipes with your own hands, you will need a set of equipment:

• measuring instruments: tape measure, square, building level, marker;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• clamps;
• shovel;
• paint brush.

To assemble the frame with your own hands, you need to prepare:

1. A profile pipe with a cross-section of 20×40 mm for the manufacture of a support frame and arches.
2. Profile pipe with a cross section of 20×20 mm for horizontal connections.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Door hinges and latch handle.
5. Primer and paint for exterior use.

You can use polyethylene film, glass or polycarbonate as a covering material. To build a foundation with your own hands you need crushed stone, sand, concrete, reinforcement, roofing felt, bitumen.

How to bend profile pipes for a greenhouse

To bend the profile pipes that make up the greenhouse frame with your own hands, you can use different methods:

1. With preheating. For pipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm. To avoid profile deformation, the pipe cavity is filled with sand. To heat the pipe bend, use blowtorch or a gas burner.
2. Cold bending. Used for bending thin profile pipes.

Regardless of the bending method you choose, you will also need a radius template and one of the following tools or fixtures:

1. Pipe bender To bend profile pipes of small cross-section size with your own hands, you can use a mechanical manual pipe bender. This is a design of rollers arranged in the shape of an isosceles triangle. The workpiece is placed between the rollers and secured with a clamping screw. Bending requires a hydraulic or electromechanical unit that does not require excessive muscular effort.
2. A thick spring. It must be of such a diameter that it can freely enter the cavity of the profile pipe.
3. Metal or concrete bending plate. The plate has special holes into which bolts with attachments are inserted to adjust the bending radius. The bolts serve as stops for bending the profile pipe with your own hands.

You can also use a grinder. With its help, you need to make several cuts on 2/3 of the pipe section on the future arc. The cuts should be at the same distance and equal in depth. The profile pipe is bent along them, and then the cuts are welded.

Step-by-step construction technology

For those who have decided to build a small greenhouse from a profile pipe on their own site with their own hands, I suggest step by step instructions.

Step 1. I called it “Site Preparation and Structure Marking”. Clear the selected area of ​​debris and stones, uproot the stumps and level it. The site must be strictly horizontal or with a slight difference, but no more than 10 cm. You can do the markings yourself using wooden pegs and rope.

Don't forget to check if the diagonals are the same size.

Pegs need to be driven into the ground at the corners of the structure, a rope must be pulled between them, thus marking the perimeter of the greenhouse. Then you need to remove a layer of turf from the marked area, dig it up, carefully breaking up the clods, and level the surface with a rake.

Step 2. At this stage we will build with our own hands supporting structure. For a greenhouse made from a profile pipe, the best option would be reinforced concrete strip foundation:

1. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the building, 40-50 cm deep, 30 cm wide, and compact its bottom.
2. Fill the bottom with crushed stone to a height of 10 cm, and on top 10 cm with sand, pouring water and layer-by-layer compaction.
3. Lay a layer of roofing material or film on top of the sand cushion. If this is not done, the sand will draw water from fresh concrete and will not allow it to gain the required strength.
4. Assemble the formwork. It should protrude 15–20 cm above ground level.
5. Tie the reinforcement cage into the formwork.
6. Pour concrete M150 or M200 into the formwork. In the places where the arcs are attached to the concrete, before it hardens, insert embedded reinforcement or steel profile 40x40 mm.
7. After about a week, when the concrete gains initial strength, cover the foundation from above along the perimeter waterproofing material. Side surfaces coat with hot bitumen.
8. Fill the trench with soil.

It will take 28 days for the concrete to dry completely, after which you can attach the arches with your own hands.

Step 3. The next step is to install the frame:

1. Make arches: bend the arches, weld vertical sections to their ends. Mount the door frame on the end arches.
2. Exhibit with your own hands support frame from a profile pipe, weld it to the mortgages in the foundation.
3. Attach the end arch to the frame first, checking the verticality with a plumb line. For fastening I use a welded or bolted type of connection.
4. Then sequentially put the remaining arches in place, connecting them together with strapping elements, starting from the top crossbar.
5. The last to be mounted diagonally are two end jumpers. bottom corner door connects to top bar side strap. This will enhance bearing capacity designs.

Now you can weld the hinges and hang the door, install a latch handle on it.

Step 4. After installing the greenhouse frame, it is sheathed with polycarbonate or polyethylene. First, cover the end arches with polycarbonate with your own hands, cutting out doors and vents, and then the rest of the structure.

The sheets are overlapped so that the joints rest on the profile.

Please note that the polycarbonate sheet must be:

1. Installed towards the sun with a protective coating against ultraviolet exposure.
2. Curved in a direction perpendicular to the channels. This technique will avoid plastic creases.
3. Placed in such a way that the hollow channels in its structure are in a vertical position. This is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the pores of the panels and mold does not occur.

To attach polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame with your own hands, use self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket. The hole in the casing is drilled larger than the diameter of the fastening element itself, thus leaving a gap that compensates for the thermal expansion of the polycarbonate. The ends of the sheets should be sealed with sealing, perforated tape, and special end caps should be installed at the edges. Upon completion of work, the protective film must be removed from the polycarbonate.

How to properly sheathe a greenhouse from a profile pipe plastic film, you can watch the video:

Possible errors during construction and ways to correct them

Basic errors occur. Therefore, it is better to buy ready-made arches and mount the rest of the frame with your own hands.

1. Incorrect installation of polycarbonate, due to which the transparency of the material is lost and condensation accumulates on its inner walls. Such a sheet must be removed from the frame made of a profile pipe, the cells must be blown compressed air or wash off dirt with soapy water. After it dries, install it in place, gluing the ends with sealing tape.

When choosing material for the greenhouse frame, based on calculations and drawings, you should choose a profile pipe. Videos about its characteristics indicate that this is an excellent solution for making greenhouses. Moreover, it can be easily done with your own hands.

Advantages of using a profile pipe

Comparing profile pipe with others possible materials for the manufacture of a frame, we can highlight the following features and advantages:

• durability. As you know, wooden beams will rot quite quickly due to the humidity inherent in a greenhouse. Even if it is treated with an antiseptic, this will not prolong its service. Don’t forget about shrinkage, the natural deformation of wood, which will cause the frame to become “skewed.” An aluminum pipe can be additionally treated with an anti-corrosion compound or simply painted.
• more options choice of coverage. It is acceptable to use polycarbonate, film, glass. In this case, the first one will be the best combination, since both are reliable and long term services.
• ease of installation. The parts are easy to weld, and at any angle. And similar difficulties are possible if we stop at metal-plastic pipe. If polycarbonate is chosen for the covering, there is no need to use additional pads.
• Easy to assemble by yourself. The profile pipe can be bent, cut into the right size parts and fasten at any angle.
• the ability to create a greenhouse of any shape.

Having decided to use a profile, you need to determine a place on the site for a greenhouse in order to understand what size it should be. After this, you should work according to the algorithm:

1. Select the shape and type of greenhouse.
2. Draw a diagram or drawing.
3. Calculate the quantity and type of materials needed.
4. Proceed with assembly.

Drawing - what to consider

When drawing a drawing, it is necessary to take into account that the profile pipe is usually realized standard sizes: 3, 4, 6, 12 m. Having clarified this point with the seller, you need to build on it. This will save on material. More precisely, reduce the amount of trim and excess. For example, you can make a greenhouse 6 m long and 4 m wide. By choosing a height of 2 m, the pipe can be cut without excess and for vertical posts.

Attention! Metal thickness and inner diameter play a significant role. For racks and main parts it is better to choose 20*40 mm, and for connecting parts - 20*20 mm.

The drawing will be formed from the following frame components:

• base;
• vertical racks;
• top harness;
• roof;
• door, windows;
• additional reinforcements (struts).

In the drawing, it is necessary to take into account at what distance the vertical posts will need to be placed. According to the standards, it is recommended to choose a parameter of 1 m. If you plan to cover it with film, it is permissible to reduce it to 60 cm. This will reduce the load on the material and extend its service life.

If there is a need to leave a larger distance, for example, when drawing the front part, you will need to further strengthen the pipes. This can be done by inserting a pipe diagonally between the vertical struts.

The roof frame is formed using standard construction technology, so the drawing will need to reflect:

• two equal beams from each wall at a distance equal to the gap between the posts;
• the beams on each slope will need to be connected to each other in the plane of the slope;
• connect opposite beams. It turns out to be a kind of “farm”.

When drawing up a drawing, it is necessary to take into account the future joints of the polycarbonate.

A slightly different approach would be if the greenhouse is arched. In view of the need to bend the pipe at the desired angle, you need to clearly understand what height will be obtained in the highest place, so as not to waste space or so that it is sufficient for caring for plants. For example, to get a height of about 2 m in the center of the greenhouse, you will need a 12 m profile (or two 6 m each, connected in the center). They need to be installed at a distance of about 4 m (the width of the greenhouse). The number of arcs should be drawn based on the cladding option and the expected load. On average, a distance of 0.6 - 1 m will be sufficient.

Each pair of arcs will be connected to each other, and profiles will also be required on each side to secure the structure. On the gables, taking into account the doors and windows, you also need to draw additional spacers.

Do not forget that the profile pipe can be cut into any parts and folded into the required structure. If desired, for example, you can make a triangular, lean-to, even spherical greenhouse.

Instructions for carrying out work

Before assembling the greenhouse, you need to prepare the foundation - the foundation. At your discretion, you can fill it with concrete, lay it out of brick, use a rail or another option. Since the structure will not be heavy, it is enough to fill the foundation with a depth of 20-30 cm. You can immediately place anchors or embedded parts in several places in the concrete, to which the frame can subsequently be welded. This will create solid foundation.

1. Cut the profile of the required length into vertical posts.
2. Weld everything vertical pillars according to the dimensions in the drawing, aligning them vertically.
3. Install and secure the top lining (pipe along the top of all racks).
4. Measure and cut the connecting parts between the risers.
5. Connect the racks in the designated places with crossbars.
6. Weld “beams” onto the roof and connect them with crossbars.
7. Separately assemble the door and secure it in the right place.

It's not the only thing possible variant execution. Sometimes it’s easier to assemble parts piece by piece on a flat horizontal surface and install them on permanent place great details. For example, each side can be welded on the ground. To do this, you will need to make a large quadrangle, weld the crossbars inside and fix them transversely. To simplify the work, it is better to cook the parts in small “portions”, in sections of 2-3 m.

Attention! When assembling on the ground, you need to choose a flat surface so that the parts do not become distorted. From time to time it is worth trying on the design for the future greenhouse so as not to make a mistake in size.

Same with the roof. “Slopes” can be made in the form of rectangles and secured only at the time of installation to each other. The choice of method in this situation depends on the number of people performing the installation. Doors and vents can be welded directly onto necessary details.

Advice. If you cut a long pipe in several places on one side, you can bend the profile so that it immediately turns into a structure of racks with a roof (pentagonal part). This will save some material and time.

Arched greenhouse - features

To make an arched greenhouse from a profile, you will need to have a pipe bender. This is a special tool with which metal can be bent at any angle, obtaining smooth transition. If it is not available, you need to work a little:

1. Cut the pipe to the required length.
2. Make small cuts on one side.
3. Bend the profile to the desired radius.

Advice. The more often you make cuts, the easier the pipe will bend and the smoother the bend will be.

In addition, there are traditional methods for bending. One involves calcining the pipe with sand. Calcined sand must be poured inside, compacted tightly, plugging both exits with choppers. As experts confirm, with such filling you can bend a pipe with your hands, without additional accessories.

Arcs from a profile pipe can be made with a pipe bender

The finished arcs will need to be secured according to the instructions:

1. Install the front arc on the base, level it vertically, and weld it.
2. Install and attach two vertical posts on the gable, which will serve as a frame for installing the door.
3. Mount the next arch in the same way.
4. Secure the arches between each other on the sides with a piece of the required size.
5. Install all the arches in the same way.
6. Lay a pipe along the top and weld it to each arch.
7. If the structure is not reliable enough, make additional fasteners on the sides.

Attention! It is better to start assembly from two opposite sides to make the structure stronger.

Assemble the doors and windows according to the drawn diagram and weld them to the pediment.

The last stage of assembly will be the polycarbonate fasteners. If you initially take into account its size when drawing the diagram, the amount of excess can be significantly reduced. When installing, you need to rely on basic tips.

Installation on personal plot a high-quality capital greenhouse that can last for many years is the cherished dream of summer residents and owners of country houses. The simplest and most practical solution is to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe; in this case, you can prepare a drawing and design project yourself, following the recommendations.

Features of the profile pipe and advantages of use

The skeleton of a homemade greenhouse, “its skeleton,” is a frame, for the manufacture of which a reliable, high-quality and durable material, able to withstand both climatic and mechanical influences. These properties are possessed by a profiled pipe - a metal product with a round, square, oval or rectangular shape sections, different sizes and different wall thicknesses.

This material has many advantages that make it truly universal in the construction of light outbuildings, which include the designed greenhouse. Particular attention should be paid to the following characteristics of professional pipes:

• significant working life - in combination with an anti-corrosion coating, it easily resists corrosion and possible mechanical damage;
• strength and rigidity - these qualities will give the frame stability and resistance to external influences;
• relative lightness - the weight of the product is significantly lower than that of a wooden beam;
• ease of processing and connection of the profile - not required for operation special tool, except corner grinding machine and welding machine;
• wide selection of available profile shapes and sizes.

In addition to the listed advantages, it should be noted the relatively low cost of the profile pipe, making it accessible to buyers with different levels of income.

Preparation of materials

When planning the construction of a greenhouse, it is necessary to calculate the material and financial costs so that the started activity does not remain an unfinished project, but reaches completion.

The greenhouse frame must be installed and secured to a foundation (strip or column). The second option is used more often, because for a rigid and deformation-resistant structure, it is not necessary to pour a continuous strip of concrete, but rather to prepare individual support points.

It is also worth planning the coating material. Typically, the manufacture of a greenhouse involves the use of polycarbonate, glass or polyethylene. In combination with a profiled pipe, polycarbonate is ideal, as it has sufficient transparency, good strength and durability.

Drawing up a drawing for a greenhouse

In the planning process good help will become a drawing of the future object. With its help, you can not only design the general appearance and shape of the greenhouse being built, but also get many advantages:

• provide the dimensions of the entire greenhouse and each individual component element;
• calculate the amount of materials needed;
• distribute all construction activities into stages;
• prepare the tools necessary for carrying out various work processes.

It is not necessary that the greenhouse drawings meet all the requirements of the design documentation. These can be elementary sketches (drawings made by hand without an exact scale, but in compliance with proportions).

The main requirement for them should be the mandatory display of the following nuances:

• base perimeter - length and width of the building;
• racks – their number, height, distance between them;
• crossbars - strapping between vertical posts in their upper part;
• roof – the shape of the segments (triangular, arched), their number, fastening to each other in the upper part and on the slopes;
• moving elements - doors, windows, their size and installation location.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to know the standard length of the profile pipe, which is 3, 4 or 6 meters. There is also a standard size of 12 meters in length, but problems may arise with the delivery of such a product. Thus, in order to avoid large quantity scraps of material, it is recommended to plan the height of the posts at 2 m, the distance between them is 1 m, and select the length and width of the greenhouse from the pipe based on the proposed dimensions.

Drawing up cost estimates

Without calculation financial costs one cannot be completely confident in the successful completion of the undertaking begun. Therefore, guided by the prepared drawing, taking into account the planned dimensions, it is necessary to draw up an estimate of the cost of purchase:

• metal pipes;
• polycarbonate;
• fastening elements;
• working tool.

It should be noted that to manufacture the main load-bearing elements of the greenhouse, you need to purchase a profile with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm, and for crossbars or moving parts you can use pipes with a metal thickness of 1–1.5 mm.

In addition, it is necessary to provide Consumables, such as welding electrodes and grinder discs.

Sequence of work when constructing a greenhouse from a profile

The construction of greenhouses, like the construction of other structures, is carried out in stages. Each stage has its own importance and is carried out in connection with the prepared drawing.

Marking and arrangement of the greenhouse foundation

The simplest and practical solution A columnar foundation is used to securely secure the greenhouse at the installation site. The perimeter of the greenhouse is first marked on the ground. To do this, the dimensions of the base are transferred from the drawing to the soil. This can be done with the help of pegs driven into the ground at the corners of the future structure and a rope stretched between them.

Now you can proceed to the foundation of the greenhouse (step by step instructions):

1. In the corners of the markings using earth drill recesses are made with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 50 cm (in climatic zones with harsh winters - at least 70 cm). The same recesses are made around the entire perimeter, at a distance of 1.5–2 m from each other.
2. A piece of roofing material is placed in each recess, which, adjacent to the walls, forms a pipe. The base of the holes is filled with sand to a depth of 5–7 cm.
3. The resulting forms are filled with concrete, and a piece of reinforcement is placed in each hole, which will subsequently serve as a connecting link between the frame and the foundation.

Before the concrete dries, it is prohibited to carry out any work on it.

Cutting a profile pipe and assembling a frame

These activities are carried out using a grinder and a welding machine. The profile is cut into segments according to the drawing and welded together into a single frame. The roof of the structure can be made in the form of a triangular or arched structure. The latter option involves the use of certain technologies for bending metal pipes.

In the absence of skills to use welding machine, fastening of elements to each other can be done using couplings and tees, which provide for bolted ties of products. This method is also used to create collapsible greenhouses.

External cladding of the greenhouse

Having decided to use polycarbonate to cover the greenhouse, you need to pay attention to the arrangement of the sheets on the frame. Inside the product, membranes (cells) are clearly visible, ensuring its rigidity. It is necessary that these strips be positioned vertically, that is, perpendicular to the base. This will allow moisture to flow down freely, as a result of which it will not accumulate in the cells.

Hanging windows and doors

This procedure is the last in the greenhouse manufacturing process. It is produced using conventional canopies, which can be attached to the profile either with self-tapping screws or by welding.

The gaps between the hatch and the door frame must be closed with a rubber band, secured with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the door to prevent cold air from penetrating inside. Window units are equipped in exactly the same way.

Making an arched roof for a greenhouse

The upper part of the greenhouse, made in the form of an arch, looks more attractive, but to give the profiled pipe a rounded shape, you need to master the technology of bending it. There are two ways to bend a pipe: cold and hot. In both options, filler in the form of sand should be used, densely poured inside the pipe to prevent it from losing its cross-sectional shape or breaking along the seam. Without filler, it is allowed to bend a thin-walled profile with a small cross-section.

The cold method is to use, ensuring precise and uniform bending of the pipe to the desired result.

The hot method will require heating the metal red-hot and then bending it. It is better to perform this procedure together. For achievement High Quality you need to have focus round shape, For example, metal container large diameter. A mark is made on it with chalk, to which the center of the prepared template is applied, and its edges are marked with pegs driven into the ground. The profile at the bend is heated using gas burner(or in another way), after which it leans the center against the mark on the container and bends in one movement until the edges touch the pegs.

Video: Greenhouse frame made of profile pipe

A greenhouse on a personal plot is practical and useful; the harvest pleases from early spring to late autumn. It is believed that a frame made of profile pipe is the most best option for the manufacture of similar designs. Reliable, safe, functional, with correct operation and care will last a long time.

In this article we will share the secrets of how to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe yourself: design the structure, decide on the dimensions. Here are step-by-step instructions on how to build a house for vegetables with your own hands.

Profile pipe for building a greenhouse - all the pros and cons

The profile pipe has a square or rectangular cross-section; according to the manufacturing method it can be:

• hot- and cold-formed;
• electric-welded, electric-welded cold-deformed.

The shape, size, characteristics of professional pipes are regulated by part 8639-82 and 8645-68 GOST. For the manufacture of profile pipes, different metals are used; the most in demand in private and commercial construction of greenhouses are steel products with an anti-corrosion protective coating, moisture-proof. The strength of the material is ensured by 4 stiffening ribs, which bear the main load of the entire greenhouse structure.

The physical and mechanical characteristics of profile pipes make it possible to produce a high-quality, reliable frame. To extend the service life, maintain the aesthetics and integrity of the greenhouse, after installing the welded structure, it is necessary to:

• thoroughly remove scale with a stiff brush;
• treat with abrasive sandpaper to remove even invisible signs of corrosion;
• wash with solvent;
• prime;
• paint.

Good to know: Rust can be removed by treating the affected areas with vinegar essence. Work should be carried out wearing rubber gloves and a respirator.

The profile pipe looks like a wooden beam with a straight side. The shape is convenient for mounting sheet material: polycarbonate, glass, film-frame elements - this greatly facilitates the manufacture of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands.

The main types of corrugated pipes for the manufacture of greenhouses

Feasibility and choice of size of professional pipes

The price of a profile pipe depends on the quality of the steel, size, wall thickness - this is not a cheap “pleasure”, so it is important to choose the optimal material. It is rational to build a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands from a profile with ribs 40*20, 40*40 mm, wall thickness 2 mm; for horizontal screed you can use pipes 20*20 mm, wall thickness 1-1.5 mm.

The standard length of the corrugated pipe is 6.05 m, in order to minimize costs and avoid significant waste, before starting construction it is necessary to decide on the design of the greenhouse and its dimensions.

Drawing of a greenhouse made from a 20*20 mm profile pipe, the base is best made from rolled 40*20 mm

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile pipe - drawings and diagrams of standard, ergonomic designs

Standard homemade greenhouse from a profile pipe there are usually three types:

• Attached to a house with a pitched or asymmetrical oval roof.
• Free-standing arched structure.
• Greenhouse with a house made of profile pipes with a gable roof.

Based on the given size of the corrugated pipes, the appropriate length of the building is: 3, 4, 6, 12 m, width, respectively: 2, 3, 4, 6 m. A convenient size for organizing two parallel beds is 3-6 * 3 m, for three – 3- 12*4-6 m. In private construction, a greenhouse made of metal pipes with your own hands has a popular standard of 3*6 m.

Drawings of greenhouses made of profile pipes, with dimensions, on a strip foundation

Greenhouse frame made of profile pipe - drawings and calculations

Work in a greenhouse often proceeds according to the principle: I straightened up to see if it straightened up, so that I could see if I straightened up. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the height of the structure to facilitate and maximize the comfort of work. It is optimal if a person stands up to his full height + 300-400 mm.

Detailed drawing of an arched building

The average ergonomic height of an arched greenhouse is 1.9-2.4 meters - this is essentially the bending radius of a polycarbonate sheet. Let us recall the formula for circumference: L= π*D, where π – 3.14, D – diameter = 2 radii.

Let's say the height of a greenhouse made from a corrugated pipe is 2 m, then L (circumference) = 3.14 * 4 = 12.56 m. We need half of this length - 12.56:2 = 6.28 m. But this is not rational when When using polycarbonate sheathing, it turns out that one sheet whose length is 6.0 m is not enough; you will have to sharpen a small strip, the same with the standard length of the professional pipe. To avoid extra costs, it is necessary to reduce the height of the greenhouse, rationally if H = 1.85-1.9 m, with a building width of 3.7-3.8 m.

Scheme of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe; such a design can be made with your own hands with virtually no waste of material

For a gable roof, the calculation of the height depends on the slope of the roof, for different regions, depending on wind and snow loads, the slope is usually 30-45 o. A convenient height for a straight wall is 1.7-2 meters to the bottom edge of the rafters. Using an example, we will calculate the total height of the greenhouse from the profile pipe to the ridge.

Let's say the slope gable roof is 30 o, the width of the greenhouse is 4 m. According to the Pythagorean theorem: c 2 = a 2 + b 2, where c is the hypotenuse (the length of one slope), a is the leg (perpendicular from the edge of the corrugated pipe frame to the middle), b is the leg ( height from the ridge to the straight wall perpendicular). In our case: a = 4:2 = 2 meters. From geometry: a leg lying opposite an angle of 30° is equal to half the hypotenuse. Let's make an equation:

b=x, therefore,

c = 2x, hence (2x) 2 = 2 2 +x 2, 4x 2 = 4+x 2, 3x 2 = 4, x2 = 4:3, x = √1.33(3) = 1.154 m - this is the length hypotenuse, which means leg b = 0.58 m, hence the total height of the greenhouse from the corrugated pipe: 2 + 0.58 = 2.58 m.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe, drawing of a standard gable building

Note important nuance, the roof slope should be 100-300 mm longer than the greenhouse itself, so its length = 1.154+0.1(0.3) = 1.25-1.45 m - this must be taken into account when cutting the profile pipe for the greenhouse rafter system .

About the entrance

It is better to enter the greenhouse from the end side, the height of the door is 1.9-2.1 m, width 700-800 mm, for convenient entry of pots with seedlings and tools. For winter greenhouses It is recommended to attach a small vestibule from the corrugated pipe; this will help avoid cold air flows at the entrance.

How to bend profile pipes for a greenhouse

Arched greenhouses made from corrugated pipe are considered the most practical; they have good aerodynamic characteristics, so they can easily withstand snow loads and gusts of wind. The easiest way is to order a service for bending corrugated pipes at a specialized metal warehouse; you can buy a pipe bender, but this is not advisable.

There is a folk technology on how to bend a profile pipe yourself without deforming it. You will need a radius template, which should be made in advance.

Method one - at any time of the year

River sand is sifted, washed and dried. The fire is lit, put a metal sheet- an improvised baking sheet, sand is poured in a thin layer and calcined until there is no evaporation from the surface.

The corrugated pipe is cut to the size of the greenhouse, one end is plugged with a wooden chopper, sandstone is poured inside, tamped by tapping, when the cavity is filled to the brim, the other end is also tightly closed with a plug. With such a filler, the profile pipe can be easily bent by hand according to the template, without deformation.

Method two - winter

The technology exactly repeats the first method, but instead of sand, the corrugated pipe for the greenhouse is filled with water and left in the cold until ice forms. Then it bends according to the pattern.

Method three - simple, but you will need equipment

The corrugated pipe is cut 2/3 with a grinder; the cuts should be located at the same distance from each other. The principle is simple: the steeper the curve of the greenhouse, the smaller the distance between the cuts. Next, the profile is bent along a given radius and all seams are hermetically sealed by welding.

Look useful idea How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse; the video describes in detail how to make a pipe bender yourself and make an arc of the required size.

How to weld a greenhouse from metal profile pipes - step-by-step instructions

For building a greenhouse with your own hands, a galvanized profile pipe with ribs 40*20 mm is best suited, for connecting parts 20*20 mm. High quality material has a zinc coating outside and inside. Galvanized profile pipe for greenhouses is very light, the frame can be moved or transported to another area, and a reliable protective coating prevents corrosion. For large structures, galvanized corrugated pipe with reinforcement is used; it can withstand loads of up to 90 kg per 1 m2. According to GOST, a product made taking into account all technological requirements will last 2-3 decades. High-quality galvanization even with mechanical damage: bends, dents, deformations, maintains the integrity of the coating, without cracks or scratches to the base.

Important: Frame details for a greenhouse made of steel pipe without protective coating It is recommended to assemble by welding. Galvanized elements are best connected to bolted connection and special connecting elements, corners.

A greenhouse made of galvanized pipe 25x25, the photo shows an example of how to properly attach the components of a collapsible structure

Foundation for a greenhouse made of corrugated pipe

Greenhouse structures made from profile pipes are often installed on a strip foundation, but the final choice depends on geodetic studies of the site. In an economical option, you can use a columnar base.

We clear the area of ​​debris and weeds, uproot the roots, mark it with posts, stretch a rope around the perimeter, remove the fertile layer of soil, 300 mm thick. We dig a trench 700-800 mm deep, level the bottom, fill it with sand and crushed stone, and tamp it.

We assemble a frame from corrugated reinforcement with a cross-section of 8-12 mm, depending on the scale of the building. We install formwork, make panels from unedged boards, moisture resistant plywood, you can use durable plastic panels. We check the geometry, secure it with slopes, and tighten it along the top with bars. We fill it with concrete, insert the mortgages, we will tie the frame to them, and leave it until it is fully formed for 4 weeks.

Diagram of the foundation structure and method of attaching the frame

How to weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands

We do the detailing according to the drawing and cut the elements to size. We lay 2 layers of roofing felt on the tape, make pipe piping around the perimeter, and weld them to the mortgages. We bend the parts according to the chosen method, install the arcs strictly perpendicular to the foundation and fasten them to the frame. The recommended distance between arches is 900-1000 mm. On the end side we decorate the entrance opening with a profile, on the other side we strengthen the structure with transverse crossbars.

The photo shows how to assemble a greenhouse frame from a 20x40 mm profile pipe

We lay a lathing made of a 40*20, 20*20 mm profile across the arched structure; this will serve as a base for sheet covering material and strengthen the frame. Using self-tapping screws, we attach the connecting rod to the purlins. plastic profile, insert polycarbonate, 6-12 mm thick, into the grooves, fix it with plugs. We screw the edges onto thermal washers. For ventilation, you should make vents. Better 2-3 on each side. Fittings for comfortable opening of openings can be purchased in specialized stores.

In conclusion, there is a video instruction with detailed explanations on how to weld the greenhouse frame, base and walls with your own hands.

Strapping, strengthening, rafter system, painting.

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