DIY screen printing. Silkscreen printing - What is it? Silkscreen printing - what is it?

The silk-screen printing technique came to graphics in the 20th century from Chinese and Japanese textile printing. This art began to develop in Soviet countries in the 1930s. Silk-screen printing is distinguished by its brightness and decorative coloring, allowing you to obtain relief images and high-quality artistic screen printing.

We decided to present the silk-screen printing technique in hand-made conditions. Someone will definitely be interested in this. If something is unclear, ask questions.

So:

PREPARATION

You will need:

1) Mesh (special silk), size 40-50 cm (price - approximately 12-15 USD per linear meter). This is a rare mesh for average quality drawings. Drawings high resolution(for example, photographs) are obtained only on silk 80 units and above (price - approximately 20-25 USD per 1 linear meter)

2) Wooden frames, best size- 40x50, 40x60 cm, preferably with very aligned corners (the quality of the stencil and design depends on whether the mesh is stretched flat), preferably from hard wood that will not twist due to constant wetting with water

3) Light-sensitive emulsion (price approximately 25-45 USD)

There are many companies and brands that produce products for printing houses; I use Lately produced by the English company "Autotype", the emulsion is called Autotype 6000. In general, there are 4 types, depending on the mesh, paint and material on which the design is printed, as well as the equipment on which everything is done. The most convenient at home is the purple emulsion, which is illuminated under a 500 W lamp for 15 to 20 minutes.

Autotype 6000 is just this type. Emulsions are usually supplied separately with a catalyst chemical reaction, which must be mixed into it immediately before starting work. There is a secret here: the emulsion activated by the catalyst deteriorates over time (within about six months), so it is best to activate it immediately before a large piece of work.

The emulsion is supplied in volumes of at least 1 liter (about 50-70 average-sized stencils), so it makes sense to divide it into parts when working, and activate only 1 part, then another, etc. There are also catalyst-free emulsions that have a shelf life of up to 2 years at home, but they are usually twice as expensive.

The emulsion should be stored in a cold and dark place(the bottom drawer of the refrigerator will do just fine) all the time when you are not using it. This extends its shelf life.

4) 500 W lamp, with mirror reflectors in the housing (those that illuminate billboards are just right), with a 220 V plug, of course:)

5) Glass slightly larger than your largest frame, preferably High Quality, without opaque stripes, thickness 5-8 mm

6) Red lamp

7) Drawing on tracing paper (or oiled paper), good quality, very black - this is important!

SEAL

1) Paint (price 10 - 25 USD)

There are many inks for printing on fabric using stencils made using silk-screen printing (or simply meshes), but they all differ in their properties, subsequent processing and price. Some paints simply cannot be used at home, because, for example, to fix a picture you will need a special, very expensive infrared treatment, otherwise this picture will not be fixed in any way. Therefore, I recommend starting with silk-screen printing inks. water based, such as Manukyan, Argon (they do not require any processing after printing, are easily washed off and dry quickly, which is why the mesh after working with such paint needs to be washed after 5-10 runs, and very carefully, otherwise the stencil will become clogged with paint and deteriorate).

Then you can use plastisol paints, which give very high-quality and durable prints, can print more than 100 copies at a time, are washed off only with solvents, but require subsequent heat treatment (with an iron), the temperature and duration depend on each specific type of paint (the price depends on manufacturer and color of paint, white and black are usually the cheapest from each manufacturer, colored ones are more expensive). Can also be used acrylic paints, they are easy to use, although they give a dim and not very durable print, and are also treated with heat within 5 minutes after application to the fabric. Such acrylic should be in paste (because liquid acrylic, most of which is available on our market, will spread over the stencil; it is only suitable for drawing by hand). It could be bought in Poland at any art supply store. It is unknown whether there are analogues in Belarus; there is nothing similar in the “Everything for the Artist” stores. Price in Poland - 8-10 USD for 1 kg

2) Squeegee - a special thick and elastic rubber band with which paint is applied (also sold together with materials for printing houses). Price - 10-12 USD for 1 linear meter, you will need about 30 cm. It is better to nail the squeegee to wooden handle, it will be more convenient to work, it is quite possible that they are sold in finished form Same

3) Material or T-shirt

MANUFACTURING A STENCIL

The stencil is made in dark room under the light of a red lamp. The mesh (silk) needs to be pulled over the frame, pulling strongly from the centers to the corners. The mesh should be stretched very tightly so that it cannot be pressed with your finger. the mesh can be secured to a wooden frame with a stapler or buttons. In a dark room (necessarily no direct light), under the light of a red lamp, a pre-activated emulsion is applied to the frame with a grid. It must be applied on both sides of the mesh.

The best tool for applying the emulsion is the lid of a cassette box, which can simply be used to scoop the emulsion out of the jar.

Important! you need to try to ensure that the emulsion is evenly distributed thin layer, covered the entire work surface sieves (up to internal sides wooden frame) without spaces or holes on both sides. Excess emulsion must be removed, then the emulsion on the mesh must be dried with a hairdryer on both sides.

Place something black (a T-shirt or a piece of material) under the frame, then lay it with the mesh side up, put a drawing on it (on tracing paper or oiled paper), press the drawing with glass. A 500-watt lamp is fixed at a distance of 45-50 cm above the grid (it is best to prepare everything in advance). The lamp is turned on for 16-20 minutes - the stencil is illuminated. Autotype 6000 emulsion lights up in 16-19 minutes. It is best to first try to illuminate each new emulsion, detect exact time. After the exposure time has expired, the stencil should be quickly rinsed with a shower with strong water pressure, preferably cold, or slightly warm until the design is completely visible on the mesh.

The stencil is ready, but it is best to print with it the next day (the emulsion can still be broken, holes and unevenness may form in the drawing), then it is completely fixed.

SEAL

The stencil is placed on the material with the mesh down. The paint is applied to the stencil over the entire width of the design with a reserve (do not skimp on paint here, the excess can be removed later). The stencil needs to be pressed against the workbench as tightly as possible (ideally, it’s better to print with two people: one holds the frame, the other fiddles with the paint). With a sharp and strong movement, the squeegee pulls the paint through the entire drawing so as to spread it evenly and in a thick layer into the drawing area. When the paint is distributed over the entire area of ​​the drawing, reverse side The squeegee (it is without paint) must be pressed back to remove excess paint. Then the frame is carefully lifted and the material is set aside to dry.

It will take some time to learn how to type smoothly, so don't be nervous if you don't get it right away.

You can print large quantities at once (if the ink does not clog the design too much). Subsequent processing of material with a pattern - depending on the type of paint. Regardless of the type of ink, I advise you to thoroughly rinse the frame with the mesh immediately after printing (if the ink remains in the mesh, the design may be printed worse in the future, and if it hardens there, the frame itself can then be thrown away). The grid frame can be used several times.

The emulsion is washed off with a special remover (price 12-15 USD per 1 liter), and if the mesh itself remains in in perfect order(no tears, remaining paint, etc.) You can make a new stencil on this mesh.

That's it! Good luck!

prepared the text Sazska la Contra

Content:

Silk-screen printing (screen printing) is a printing technique that is used to quickly transfer a screen image onto various objects, most often clothing. For silkscreen printing, you will need a mesh stretched over a frame and a stencil. As you apply the design, you will need to press down on the stencil and mesh to force the ink through the pores onto the fabric, paper, or other material. Knowing how to do screen printing at home will allow you to create unique items of clothing and other things, and thanks to the stencil, you can apply the same unique design to as many different objects as you like.

Steps

1 Making a mesh and frame for silk-screen printing

1. 1 Buy a stretcher - you can find it at any art supply store. These are ordinary inexpensive wooden frames for securing the canvas. By paying a little more you can get aluminum frame, which will last longer, since repeated washing can deform the wooden panel.
   • In many stores you can also find special blanks for silk-screen printing, so you can either purchase a standard blank or make your own.
   • Make sure the stretcher is large enough to accommodate your stencil. If you're not yet sure what design you want to make, or want a versatile stretcher that will fit a variety of stencils, buy a stretcher that measures 30x45cm or larger.
2. 2 Buy a mesh of the required size. You will need a fine mesh that will allow the ink to pass onto the fabric, paper or other material. The meshes are different, and their frequency is characterized by the number of threads per one square centimeter. The denser the mesh, the more complex details you can achieve.
   • If you want a classic "athletic" print that looks worn or old, purchase a rare 12 thread count mesh.
   • The most universal grids have a frequency of 16-20.
   • To imprint a design on paper or plastic, you can use a grid with a frequency of 30-40.
   • In general, weakly colored objects turn out better with denser meshes. So if you are working with white paper, you will need a grid of 35-40.
3. 3 Attach the mesh to the stretcher using a stapler and staples. Before you start securing the mesh with a stapler, make sure that there will be enough mesh to stretch it onto the stretcher. You should pull the mesh over the frame as tightly as possible, but be careful not to tear the mesh. Stretch the mesh and secure it with staples every 2.5 - 5 cm.
   • To securely attach the mesh you may need electric stapler(gun).
   • You can also use special framing nails.

2 Create your own design

1. 1 Make a stencil. Screen printing can only use one color at a time, so create a simple outline or stencil that will allow you to learn how to work with the materials. What you draw will end up being painted. To make your own stencil you will need:
   • Whatman paper, cardboard or a thick sheet of paper.
   • Pencil
   • Stationery or other sharp knife
2. 2 Be aware of artistic limitations and challenges when translating an image. Screen printing itself is not complicated; most often, you end up with exactly what you created. However, there are certain rules and the limitations of this technique that you should be aware of before you start creating your own design:
   • You can only use 1 color at a time.
   • High contrast images (such as black on white) are best for silkscreen printing.
   • For complex designs, you may need several stencils, each for a different color. You can apply them on top of each other after the next layer of ink has dried.
3. 3 Sketch your design on cardboard. Make a sketch - for this you can take your photographs or other images, edit them in a photo editor so that they are suitable for silk-screen printing. In other words, you will have to make the drawing two-color (monochrome) and then print it.
   • To make a stencil in Photoshop, for example, you will need to take a black and white image and click Image → Adjustments → Threshold (Image → Adjustments → Threshold), then set the maximum high value parameter.
4. 4 Cut out the design to make a stencil. Anything you cut will not be painted in the final drawing, and anything that remains as a stencil will be covered with paint. Let's say you want to print a red eye logo on a white T-shirt. When you cut out the stencil, all the rings you cut out will be white, and all the rings that are still part of the stencil will be red.
5. 5 You can also draw your design on transparent paper. If you're going to use enough complex drawing, then it will probably be difficult for you to cut out the entire stencil at once. In this case, it is recommended to make a drawing on transparent paper using black ink (or paint).
   • Your stencil should block the light as this is what will allow the design to transfer onto the grid and make the print. Anything covered with stencil or black ink will not be exposed to sunlight, so these parts of the mesh will be "open" and allow the paint to flow through to the fabric or other material.

3 Print an image using a grid

1. 1 Cover the mesh with a thin layer of photo emulsion. Apply a bead of emulsion along the mesh and use a squeegee to spread the emulsion thin line throughout the entire grid. The emulsion hardens when exposed to light, so anything that wasn't covered by the stencil will harden and become a barrier, meaning the paint won't be able to pass through those parts of the mesh.
   • Apply the emulsion to the flat side of the frame, not the side surrounded by wood.
   • Work in a dark room - this will prevent the emulsion from hardening before you are ready.
2. 2 Let the emulsion dry in the dark. Try to expose the emulsion to sunlight as little as possible. The best place to work with photo emulsion is a toilet or bathroom; a regular room can also be suitable if you have very thick curtains on the windows.
3. 3 Set the “area of ​​influence” while waiting for the emulsion to dry. To create a printable blank, you will need to expose the emulsion to direct, strong light. Follow the directions on the emulsion bottle or package and place the light source over a flat black surface. Emulsions different manufacturers have different time drying and requirements regarding the power of the light source and its distance from the surface. Be sure to read the directions before starting work. The lamp should usually be positioned 30-60 cm above the emulsion.
   • If the package with the emulsion indicates that it needs to be dried for 30 minutes at a power of 200 W, then install a 200 W lamp at a distance of 30-60 cm above the table. The grid should be directly under the lamp.
4. 4 Place the grid under the light source. If you move the grid, cover it with a towel to prevent the emulsion from being exposed to stray light. Place it under the lamp and remove the towel.
5. 5 Place the stencil backwards in the center of the grid. The frame should face up with the side on which the emulsion is applied. The mesh should be a few centimeters above the table surface - it should lie on the stretcher. Place your stencil in the center of the grid, leaving 10-12cm of space between the design and the edge of the frame.
   • To get the correct image you will need to place your stencil backwards. Make sure the stencil is laying exactly the way you want before you put it down, turn it over and check again to make sure everything is correct. Otherwise, you will end up with a mirror image of what you intended to print.
   • If there is a breeze and your stencil is light, place a piece of glass on top of the stencil to prevent it from moving.
   • Do not press, press or move the grid frame after you have installed the stencil and turned on the light.
6. 6 Turn on the light for the required time. Simply follow the directions on the emulsion bottle and remove the mesh frame when ready. When everything is ready, remove the stencil and leave it aside. If you feel something burning while drying, turn off the light immediately.
   • If you have prepared the emulsion correctly, you should be able to see a faint outline of your stencil in the emulsion when you remove it.
7. 7 Rinse off the emulsion with cold water. To wash the frame with mesh, use any powerful source of water (shower, faucet, hose). During the rinsing process, give Special attention image. Water will wash away excess unhardened emulsion in place of the design. You should see the outline of the stencil appear. Wash off the emulsion until you can clearly see the entire image.
   • Let the mesh dry before moving on to the next step.
8. 8 Place the grid frame on top of the object you are going to print on. The mesh should touch the surface (such as paper or T-shirt) on which the print is to be made.
   • If you are making a print on a T-shirt, place cardboard between layers of fabric as the ink may bleed through and stain the back of the T-shirt.
9. 9 Apply paint over the mesh using a squeegee. Squeeze a small strip of paint over the future drawing. After this, the paint will be evenly distributed over the entire surface so that it covers the entire stencil.
   • The harder you press, the darker the image will be.
10. 10 Slowly peel off the finished silkscreen. Remove the mesh from the T-shirt or piece of paper, using force if necessary, and then hang the T-shirt to dry. Now you have a T-shirt with your unique design.
11. 11 Repeat the procedure as many times as necessary, cleaning the mesh if necessary. You can silkscreen it on another t-shirt or item, and you can also use a different color if you want. Simply wipe down the back after each use and reapply. If you plan to use the same stencil several days in a row, wash and dry it after each use.

• You can buy ready-made screen printing mesh at many art and craft stores. These meshes cost differently and can be quite expensive.

Warnings

• Always wear gloves and cover your work surface with newspaper or plastic wrap when working with durable paints.
• Do not let the paint dry on the mesh. This will make the mesh unusable.
• Avoid screen printing images that contain too much detail. Parts may not print as expected.

What you will need

• Textile
• Stretcher
• 43T Silk Screen Mesh
• Staples
• Construction stapler
• Thick Printing Paper
• Printer (optional)
• Pencil
• Stationery knife
• Adhesive tape
• Paint (ink) for silk-screen printing
• Squeegee (D-shaped or square)
• Sponge

Its main feature is interesting way applying paint to the material. It is squeezed out using a stencil through the small cells of a special mesh.

Silkscreen printing - what is it? This is a widely sought after unique technology, which allows you to apply drawings to any souvenir products (pillows, pens, T-shirts, etc.).

Advantages

The silk-screen printing method allows you to do more than just create unique objects. In demand in modern conditions technology significantly expands the range of services provided. When using silk-screen printing, the patterns are much richer and brighter, the colors are clearer. The main advantage of the unique method is the ability to produce products in small quantities, applying images to any surface. The work is quite simple and has low cost.

History of appearance

Silkscreen printing - what is it? The term "serigrafia" includes two roots. Translated from Greek, they mean “silk” and “image” (scripture). The very origin of the word “silk-screen printing” speaks of work that is associated with decorating or using silk fabric. According to some sources, it is believed that this technology first appeared in China. The version is based on the fact that it was in this country one thousand two hundred years BC. began to produce silk. However, concrete evidence of this has not yet been found.

Some historical facts indicate that the foundations of silk-screen printing were discovered by the Phoenicians. These people extracted purple from the secretion of the gland of one of the species of mollusks. The substance is red in color and served to decorate materials. The technology was not based on manual way. It was rapidly repetitive. Ancient method fundamentally different from the modern one. It can be described as applying simple designs using special stamps (matrices).

Improvement of technology

Significant improvements to the silkscreen technique occurred in subsequent centuries. The fact is that printing using a stamp had a number of disadvantages. The main one was a small layer of pigment when using absorbent and thick fabrics. Approximately from 1185 to 1333 in the city of Kamakura, which was at that time, craftsmen decorated decorations for horses and Initially, a simple stencil method was used to apply patterns. Then a brilliant innovation was launched - the applied image was pasted onto a special mesh made in the form of a frame with human hair attached to it. This method made it possible to completely transfer the design onto the fabric. Human hair, pressed with a swab dipped in pigment, was completely invisible on the material.

Worldwide popularity

By the second half of the 18th century. The unique technology of displaying dye on fabric has become popular in many countries. Silk-screen printing has become widespread in Europe. They began to produce in France and England unique wallpaper. American craftsmen decorated hardware, walls, furniture and fabrics.

Over time, the material for making the “printed frame” became not human hair, but Big step in the development of silk-screen printing was a patent registered in 1907 by a certain Simon. He invented new method screen printing. According to the new invention, the drawing began to be applied through This guaranteed greater tension stability, dimensional stability, and also made it possible to use rubber rollers.

Screen printing technology acquired its modern form in the period from the thirties to the fifties of the last century. Since that time, silk-screen printing has been used to apply designs to any type of fabric. Using a unique method, posters and postcards, labels, and even license plates for cars began to be created.

Silk-screen printing is still widely used today. Possibilities this method prints are multifaceted. This allows silk-screen printing to be used in printing, as well as in electronics and textiles, glass and ceramics, automotive and many other industries.

New opportunities

Silkscreen printing - what is it? This unique way obtain multi-color and high-quality photos and images on metal, porcelain and fabric products. Using traditional way requires expensive, bulky equipment and sufficient great experience work.

Relatively recently, it was imported from America new technology, which immediately became very popular. With this method, silk-screen printing is available, done with your own hands at home.

What will you need?

Screen printing equipment includes a computer and printer, scanner and digital camera, as well as special components. If you know how to draw well, you won't need computer equipment.

Drawing

The whole process consists of two stages. The first step is to prepare a negative image. The next step is to transfer the design to the product.

For the first stage technological process you need to print the desired image on a printer or draw it on a sheet of paper. Then a stencil film is glued to the sketch. The workpiece prepared in this way is placed for several minutes in a special frame in sunlight or under a UV lamp.

On next stage During the technological process, the film is placed in water, rinsed and excess coating is removed from its surface with a soft brush. The resulting wet negative must be dried on a cloth or napkin under the rays of the sun or an ultraviolet lamp.

At the next stage, the image is transferred to the selected item. When applied tightly to the product, paint is applied with a special spatula made of plastic material. To work, you will need to purchase a kit that includes an exposure frame, five regular A4 sheets, the same amount of paper for applying an image with a higher resolution, and a plastic spatula. If you want to use screen printing for profit, you will need to organize a larger scale production.

In this case, you will need to purchase special equipment. In addition to a computer and a black-and-white printer, you will need to purchase a silk-screen printing machine (to save money, you can make it yourself), an exposure camera, and a cutter. You will also need some components (squeegee cuvette and frames, paints, etc.).

Printing materials

Silk-screen printing inks are currently produced centrally at Russian enterprises. They are classified according to the type of film-forming and printed material. For the nomenclature of such paints, digital and letter designations. Paint marking foreign manufacturers different from the domestic one. However, it is also expressed using numbers and letters. When using silk-screen printing inks, you should follow the recommendations given by the manufacturer.

What conditions exist for high-quality application unique print? Paints should have good fluidity, but not be too liquid. This will allow the material to be easily applied to the product, passing through the cells of the fabric. In this case, the paint must act in such a way that the process of gluing the substrate and the stencil does not occur.

There is another important concept in silkscreen printing. It's called paint coverage. What does this mean? For example, when applying white paint to a black product, the original (black) color should not show through from under the design. This concept is directly related to dullness, that is, the opacity of paint.

The silk-screen printing technique came to graphics in the 20th century from Chinese and Japanese textile printing. This art began to develop in Soviet countries in the 1930s. Silk-screen printing is distinguished by its brightness and decorative coloring, allowing you to obtain relief images and high-quality artistic screen printing.

We decided to present the silk-screen printing technique in hand-made conditions. Someone will definitely be interested in this. If something is unclear, ask questions.

PREPARATION

You will need:

1) Mesh (special silk), size 40-50 cm (price - approximately 12-15 USD per linear meter). This is a rare mesh for average quality drawings. High-resolution drawings (for example, photographs) are produced only on silk 80 units and above (price - approximately 20-25 USD per 1 linear meter)

2) Wooden frames, the best size is 40x50, 40x60 cm, preferably with very aligned corners (the quality of the stencil and design depends on whether the mesh is stretched flat), preferably made of hard wood that will not twist due to constant wetting with water

3) Light-sensitive emulsion (price approximately 25-45 USD)

There are many companies and brands that produce products for printing houses; I have recently been using products from the English company "Autotype", the emulsion is called Autotype 6000. In general, they come in 4 types, depending on the mesh, paint and material on which the design is printed, as well as the equipment on which everything is done. The most convenient at home is the purple emulsion, which is illuminated under a 500 W lamp for 15 to 20 minutes.

Autotype 6000 is just this type. Emulsions are usually supplied separately with a chemical reaction catalyst, which must be mixed into it immediately before starting work. There is a secret here: the emulsion activated by the catalyst deteriorates over time (within about six months), so it is best to activate it immediately before a large piece of work.

The emulsion is supplied in volumes of at least 1 liter (about 50-70 average-sized stencils), so it makes sense to divide it into parts when working, and activate only 1 part, then another, etc. There are also catalyst-free emulsions that have a shelf life of up to 2 years at home, but they are usually twice as expensive.

The emulsion should be stored in a cool, dark place (the bottom drawer of the refrigerator is ideal) when not in use. This extends its shelf life.

4) 500 W lamp, with mirror reflectors in the housing (those that illuminate billboards are just right), with a 220 V plug, of course:)

5) Glass slightly larger than your largest frame, preferably high quality, without opaque stripes, thickness 5-8 mm

6) Red lamp

7) Drawing on tracing paper (or oiled paper), good quality, very black - this is important!

SEAL

1) Paint (price 10 - 25 USD)

There are many inks for printing on fabric using stencils made using silk-screen printing (or simply meshes), but they all differ in their properties, subsequent processing and price. Some paints simply cannot be used at home, because, for example, to fix a picture you will need a special, very expensive infrared treatment, otherwise this picture will not be fixed in any way. Therefore, I recommend water-based silk-screen printing paints to begin with, such as Manukyan, Argon (they do not require any processing after printing, are easily washed off and dry quickly, why should the mesh after working with such paint be washed after 5-10 runs, and very carefully, otherwise the stencil will become clogged with paint and ruined).

Then you can use plastisol paints, which give very high-quality and durable prints, can print more than 100 copies at a time, are washed off only with solvents, but require subsequent heat treatment (with an iron), the temperature and duration depend on each specific type of paint (the price depends on manufacturer and color of paint, white and black are usually the cheapest from each manufacturer, colored ones are more expensive). You can also use acrylic paints, they are easy to use, although they give a dim and not very durable print, and they are also treated with heat within 5 minutes after application to the fabric. Such acrylic should be in paste (because liquid acrylic, most of which is available on our market, will spread over the stencil; it is only suitable for drawing by hand). It could be bought in Poland at any art supply store. It is unknown whether there are analogues in Belarus; there is nothing similar in the “Everything for the Artist” stores. Price in Poland - 8-10 USD for 1 kg

2) Squeegee - a special thick and elastic rubber band with which paint is applied (also sold together with materials for printing houses). Price - 10-12 USD for 1 linear meter, you will need about 30 cm. It is better to nail the squeegee to a wooden handle, it will be more convenient to work, it is quite possible that they are sold ready-made too

3) Material or T-shirt

MANUFACTURING A STENCIL

The stencil is made in a dark room under the light of a red lamp. The mesh (silk) needs to be pulled over the frame, pulling strongly from the centers to the corners. The mesh should be stretched very tightly so that it cannot be pressed with your finger. the mesh can be secured to a wooden frame with a stapler or buttons. In a dark room (necessarily no direct light), under the light of a red lamp, a pre-activated emulsion is applied to the frame with a grid. It must be applied on both sides of the mesh.

The best tool for applying the emulsion is the lid of a cassette box, which can simply be used to scoop the emulsion out of the jar.

Important! you need to try to ensure that the emulsion is evenly distributed in a thin layer, covering the entire working surface of the sieve (to the inner sides of the wooden frame) without gaps or holes on both sides. Excess emulsion must be removed, then the emulsion on the mesh must be dried with a hairdryer on both sides.

Place something black (a T-shirt or a piece of material) under the frame, then lay it with the mesh side up, put a drawing on it (on tracing paper or oiled paper), press the drawing with glass. A 500-watt lamp is fixed at a distance of 45-50 cm above the grid (it is best to prepare everything in advance). The lamp is turned on for 16-20 minutes - the stencil is illuminated. Autotype 6000 emulsion lights up in 16-19 minutes. It is best to first try to illuminate each new emulsion and note the exact time. After the exposure time has expired, the stencil should be quickly rinsed with a shower with strong water pressure, preferably cold, or slightly warm until the design is completely visible on the mesh.

The stencil is ready, but it is best to print with it the next day (the emulsion can still be broken, holes and unevenness may form in the drawing), then it is completely fixed.

SEAL

The stencil is placed on the material with the mesh down. The paint is applied to the stencil over the entire width of the design with a reserve (do not skimp on paint here, the excess can be removed later). The stencil needs to be pressed against the workbench as tightly as possible (ideally, it’s better to print with two people: one holds the frame, the other fiddles with the paint). With a sharp and strong movement, the squeegee pulls the paint through the entire drawing so as to spread it evenly and in a thick layer into the drawing area. When the paint is distributed over the entire area of ​​the drawing, the back of the squeegee (it is without paint) must be pressed backwards to remove excess paint. Then the frame is carefully lifted and the material is set aside to dry.

It will take some time to learn how to type smoothly, so don't be nervous if you don't get it right away.

You can print large quantities at once (if the ink does not clog the design too much). Subsequent processing of material with a pattern - depending on the type of paint. Regardless of the type of ink, I advise you to thoroughly rinse the frame with the mesh immediately after printing (if the ink remains in the mesh, the design may be printed worse in the future, and if it hardens there, the frame itself can then be thrown away). The grid frame can be used several times.

The emulsion is washed off with a special remover (price 12-15 USD per 1 liter), and if the mesh itself remains in perfect order (no tears, remaining paint, etc.) you can make a new stencil on this mesh.

That's it! Good luck!

prepared the text Sazska la Contra

Tell me, who doesn’t want to add something of their own to their clothes, uniqueize and decorate them, emphasize their individuality, and maybe convey their way of thinking or protest to society (especially if you are young)? For this, someone even goes to such lengths as on our native fleshly clothing - leather, and someone does silk-screen printing on fabric clothes. Both have the right to life, but today we will talk about silk-screen printing, and you can read about tattoos if you are interested.

Silk-screen printing on a sweatshirt made by yourself

To make silk-screen printing with your own hands at home, you don’t need super-skills, you just need desire and a little patience. You will need the clothing itself on which silk-screen printing will be done, acrylic paints for fabric (spray), thin translucent paper(for silk-screen printing of a cold compartment with an adhesive base - can be ordered in the online store; but if there is none, then it can be another material for making stencils for decoration) , iron, brush, sharp mounting knife(don’t forget that they need to work carefully) , paper mounting tape, and some to your taste.

What you need for silkscreen printing

Step 1: picture (sketch)

Our original image must be absolutely contrasting - that is, black and white. This way it will be better visible through the thin paper that we will apply on top. The desired picture can be found on the Internet and printed on a printer. Whether this would be a copyright violation... I don’t know, it all depends on the source.

So, we place the sketch on a flat table, on top of it is silk paper, which we fasten at the corners to the table with paper tape (see photo below).

Thin paper attached over the sketch of the drawing

Step 2: Cutting

This is the longest part, and some patience will be required, especially if your pattern is complex, with many small details and pieces (therefore, when choosing a pattern, calculate your capabilities in advance; perhaps you should not opt ​​for too complex patterns). The “floating” pieces of the stencil can be numbered and set aside so that you can carefully return them to their proper place when we apply paint.

Cutting the stencil must be done very carefully

Step 3: Additional Detailing

To prevent our silk-screen printing from being boring, we can further detail it. For example, you can make stripes - just stick paper masking tape stripes, and then lightly spray paint (see photo below).

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