Paving slabs today are produced in large quantities, which is facilitated by the development of mini-productions. Thanks to this, paving slabs are becoming more accessible and popular: today, most paths on personal plots and the sidewalks near the cottages are paved with it. But before you start landscaping the area adjacent to your house, you need to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly.
Laying paving slabs
Paving slabs are also called paving stones. She most often has rectangular shape. There are many installation schemes. Most often, the most traditional ones are used: post, herringbone, brickwork.
Paving stones are attractive because they are easy to lay, so they are used for landscaping paths of any type. Areas where several colors of material are used look especially good.
Tiles can last a very long time if installed correctly. The base for the paving stones should be a cushion of sand and crushed stone. It can be installed in any case, regardless of the chosen installation method: mortar or dry mix.
In order to further strengthen the base, a concrete screed is placed on top of it.
Technology for laying paving slabs
The type of base (crushed stone or concrete) depends on the thickness of the tiles and the requirements for the material. First of all, the turf is removed from the laying area to a depth of at least 15 cm. The area is cleared of roots, debris and plant seeds. After this, the site is subjected to longitudinal and transverse planning, taking into account the slope necessary for the drainage of rain and melt water. If necessary (for example, in the case of clay soil).
The next action is tamping or rolling the area: any of the known methods is suitable for this. To lay the curb, grooves are dug. After this, a five-centimeter sand cushion is placed on the compacted soil. A side stone (curb) is installed in the grooves and is also poured liquid concrete in small quantities.
In order to avoid deformation of the paved area during operation, the subgrade is covered with geotextiles, which are 2 layers of black mulching material such as Agrotex, Spandbond or Agril. This is especially important in slightly heaving soils.
Medium-fraction crushed stone (5...20 mm) is poured onto the bottom of the site in a layer of 20 cm: this is necessary where vehicles can enter. Water is poured directly from above and compaction is performed. It is enough to cover non-heaving soil with a 15-centimeter layer of moistened coarse sand. The following options are possible here.
- Filling with moistened sand and then leveling it using a lath.
- Moistening the sand, rolling it, leveling and laying reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 50×50 (the bond is not used). Then a dry mixture 3...4 cm thick is poured over the mesh with further moistening.
- Cement mortar 2...3 cm thick is laid on crushed stone without compaction. Sand is also not poured in. The solution is prepared from M150 cement in the proportion: 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. In some cases, tile adhesive can be used: the increase in price is justified by greater strength and reliability. In this case, the glue is applied to a concrete screed with a thickness of 5 ... 10 cm.
The paving stones are laid on the finished pad, after which they are compacted using a vibrating plate or mallet. It is necessary to observe the level of laying the tiles and form the profile of the path immediately. A slight slope towards the edges from the center is mandatory: this is necessary for water drainage. After this, the dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto the tiles and distributed along its seams. Then the excess mixture is swept out with a brush and the paving slabs are watered with water, which must penetrate into all the cracks and seams. After some time the mixture will harden.
Some nuances and tricks
When purchasing paving stones, you should take into account the waste generated during pruning. From the installation method paving slabs, and the amount of waste depends on its shape. For example, when laying diagonally, waste increases compared to laying parallel.
If it is necessary to split the tile, it should first be cut with a grinder. That is, just cut, and not saw it completely. This method helps prevent the formation large quantity dust generated during cutting.
Tiles laid on concrete base with a reinforced cushion, able to withstand the weight of a heavy car (including a truck). It is necessary to select the thickness of the tile depending on the conditions of its use: thinner ones are intended for pedestrian paths, and thicker ones for roadways (entrance to a garage, parking lot). However, in any case, the preparation of the base should be taken seriously, and the technology for laying tiles should be strictly followed: the service life of your path or site depends on this.
Video with site preparation.
Many owners of country houses prefer to paving paths on local area using paving slabs. As a result, they receive not only practical and durable coating, but also a real decoration of your site. Correct styling paving slabs are a guarantee that the coating will cope with the tasks assigned to it. The opinion that hired craftsmen who know the installation features well will do the job better than the owner himself is sometimes erroneous. If you understand the technology of laying tiles, then it is not difficult to cope with the work yourself.
Scope of application of paving slabs
Paving slabs are used for cladding road surfaces pedestrian and park paths, platforms and sidewalks. It can also be used to strengthen lawns, slopes and lining flower beds.
Mechanical properties of the material
Stages of planning, design and site marking
Laying paving slabs with your own hands begins with choosing the material and planning the site.
Site layout
When planning a local area, you should not go to two extremes - do without paving at all or create a continuous covering over the entire territory. The best option– paths from the gate to the house and to the main buildings on the site and a platform for a car. This way you can avoid mud during rainy weather and at the same time preserve your lawns and perennials.
Looking ahead a little, technically, first of all it is necessary to use “beacons” to mark the area planned for installation. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the angles of the territory and observe both transverse and longitudinal slopes.
Important! The slopes must be determined before the preparatory work begins.
Selection of coating material
Now you need to decide on the choice of covering for the paths. Paving stones are considered the best option because the cost of laying paving slabs is quite reasonable, moreover, the work is easy to do yourself. The following advantages also speak in favor of this option:
- the ability to replace individual elements and dismantle the coating;
- the tiles are frost-resistant and do not float in the heat like asphalt;
- unpretentious in care;
- moisture easily seeps into the seams between the elements.
It is important to decide on the type of paving stones. Thus, factory vibro-pressed and vibro-cast elements are available for sale. Decide on the thickness, color and shape of the products. But if you want to save a little and have the free time and desire, then you can make the tiles yourself.
There are several types of tile coverings on sale. Each of them differs in its characteristics, scope of use and requirements for the foundation:
- Vibrocast products up to 4 cm thick Suitable for blind areas and pedestrian paths. The price of such elements is the lowest. Moreover, some owners make such tiles themselves.
- Vibrocast elements up to 6 cm thick Suitable for paving driveways and parking areas. The price of such tiles is average; if desired, you can make them yourself. A base of cement and sand is prepared for installation.
- Vibropressed tiles the most durable. Its thickness is 6-8 cm. It is used in places with heavy traffic and loads, and is manufactured only at the factory. Paving slabs are laid on a concrete base and sand cushion.
Important! The type of soil on the site affects the choice of base for paving. On moving soils, a concrete base is installed even for blind areas and sidewalks. In dense soils, a cement-sand base is made under the driveways.
Despite the fact that the technology for laying paving slabs is quite simple, pay attention to the following recommendations:
- When laying the coating on a concrete base, be sure to arrange a slope for rainwater runoff. You can use a longitudinal, transverse or transverse-longitudinal slope of the coating. Optimal slope– 1 cm per meter. As a result, water will not collect between the tiles and the concrete base, which will protect the coating from swelling. In this case, a gap for water drainage is made between the tile covering and the curb.
- The width of the track is selected as a multiple of the dimensions of one covering element. Do not think that large-sized products are installed faster. Due to their significant weight, they are more difficult to lift, move and level on the base.
- All underground communications on the site are laid before the construction of paths and driveways. Otherwise, the coating will have to be dismantled. If some communications are planned to be carried out in the future, then at the place where they are carried out, they are laid under the path plastic pipes(the cross-section is chosen based on the size of communications).
- To between separate elements the covering will not allow grass to grow in the future; a layer of geotextile is laid before the foundation is constructed.
- Laying the tile covering is carried out only on a dry base, so work is not carried out during or after rain.
- The base for the tiles is carefully leveled. To arrange the pillow, purified sand without impurities and clay is used.
- The size of the track is selected taking into account the selected covering elements. If you plan to make a pattern or ornament, then it is worth drawing a diagram in advance and calculating the width of the coating, taking into account the seams. The circular method of laying products will require cutting some elements to the desired size.
At the preparation stage, it is worth considering the coating pattern. The sketch will allow you to get an idea of the future creation and calculate the required number of elements of a particular color and configuration. If paving slabs are laid by a master, the price, of course, for paving with a pattern or ornament will be higher.
Advice! The most options for patterned layouts are obtained when using rectangular paving stones.
Tile layout options
Design of paving stones
From traditional design solutions, three main layout options can be distinguished:
- Geometric, this is an application simple shapes in design, such as line, square, circle and monotonous repeating elements. Similar solutions are presented in layout diagrams.
- Chaotic layout - elements are laid out in discord, so that it is impossible to trace any patterns. But sometimes they adhere to one rule so that adjacent elements are not repeated, or there are no more than two repetitions.
- Artistic laying of paving slabs is perhaps the most interesting and expensive option in classic solutions. As a rule, such decisions are of an author’s nature, take into account the peculiarities of the location of objects on the site, emphasize them or, on the contrary, shift attention. In this segment there are both standard solutions, and exclusive design solutions. The latter option may require custom-made paving slabs according to custom sizes and flowers.
And there is another option for modern design, this is imitation of the 3D effect, creating the illusion of volume or violating the laws of geometry. This optical illusion effect is achieved by using the features of our vision and as a result we observe a stereoscopic, three-dimensional image.
And the latest fashion is luminous paving slabs
GOST, SNiP and TU for laying paving slabs
Before starting work, you must study and subsequently follow the following: regulatory documents, they can also be downloaded for review:
- GOST 17608-91, from March 1, 2018, a new document GOST 17608-2017 was released;
- SNiP III-8-76
- SNiP III-10-75 (no longer valid, but we recommend that you read it);
- Instructions VSN-1-94 / VSN-26-76;
Preparatory work and necessary tools
Before starting work, prepare the required materials and tools. To work you will need:
- curbs;
- tile;
- sand;
- cement;
- water.
Also stock up on the following tools ( an exhaustive list is presented, you need to select the ones you need based on your situation):
- tamper, vibrating plate with pad or hand roller;
- bayonet and shovel shovels;
- paving cutter;
- grinder with diamond discs;
- sieve;
- wheelbarrow;
- stretcher;
- level;
- broom;
- Master OK;
- rule for leveling sand embankment;
- rubber mallet;
- pegs;
- guides;
- nylon thread or leveling cord;
- water supply hose.
Advice! If you have to cut the tiles, you will need a grinder with a diamond wheel or for cutting on concrete.
Site marking
According to the outlines of the future path, we drive in “beacon” pegs and stretch the nylon cord. Because the stretched thread is a guideline for determining the height of the paving; tension is carried out according to the level.
Preparing the base
The base can be made of:
- sand;
- crushed stone and concrete.
The type of foundation is selected based on the purpose of the future path or site.
The foundation preparation process consists of several stages:
- filming upper layer turf and soil, remove plant roots and compact the bottom well;
- If necessary, we level the bed with gravel or crushed stone;
Important! If excavation is not carried out, the path will be higher than the level of the lawn. This is not very good, since the coating will be washed away by melt and rain water.
- we fill the bed with a drainage layer 15-20 cm high - for pedestrian paths and 40 cm - for driveways (gravel or crushed stone is used for drainage);
- A layer of sand 2 cm high is poured on top of the crushed stone to level the base.
To prevent erosion of the base cushion by groundwater, geotextiles are laid under the drainage layer.
This completes the foundation preparation work. Let's start installation street tiles and borders. Step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs with your own hands will help you do the job no worse than professional craftsmen:
Technology for laying paving slabs
Drainage and slope installation
These measures are carried out to ensure that water does not accumulate on the surface. Slopes should not be directed towards the foundations of nearby buildings. Most of the rainwater is removed through slopes and the rest goes into the ground through tile joints. Therefore, it is recommended to use gravel or crushed stone as the main load-bearing drainage layer.
Formation of the carrier layer
Depending on the purpose of the future coating, the base is formed either from sand, if the surface will be used as a pedestrian area with low traffic, or from concrete for areas with high traffic and problem soils.
Important points:
- The height of the layer is determined depending on the expected load on the coating. Those. the higher the permeability, the higher the layer should be and, accordingly, more materials will be spent. In case of significant loads, the base is laid in stages in several layers.
- The load-bearing layer must be laid evenly, but taking into account natural or planned slopes.
- Each laid layer in mandatory compacted using a tamper, vibrating plate or hand roller.
Installation of curbs
There are styling options paving with and without curbs. But when using curb stones, the path is clearly marked and protected from spreading. The border is laid after leveling the base on a concrete lock. Plastic tile borders are also permitted. The product is mounted flush with the paving surface or slightly above it. Since the tiles will shrink, it is recommended to lay the paving stones 5 mm above the curb.
Construction of sand or cement-sand layers
If crushed stone or sand is used as a supporting layer, then in the case of sand, an additional layer of sand is a continuation of the base. In the case of crushed stone, this layer is a dry mixture of cement and sand. However, the following rules should be followed:
- it is necessary to set all guide rails in advance, taking into account all slopes and firmly fix them;
- the underlying layer is leveled using the rule so that it is approximately 10 mm above the level of the tiles being laid. This is necessary so that the tile remains at the planned level after leveling the surface of the coating and subsequent subsidence of the sand or cement-sand mixture;
- To obtain a flat surface, the leveling slats must be removed and the remaining depressions must be filled with sand or dry mixture.
Do not under any circumstances try to lay tiles by eye; do not be lazy and stretch a nylon cord around the entire perimeter of the surface to be laid. This will allow you to monitor the correct geometry of the laid material, tile joints and slopes. It is recommended to check the geometry of the seams every 2-3 rows.
Laying should start from the lowest point and move towards the highest. Or from which important element, for example, the entrance to a house.
Leveling the tiles is allowed using a mallet or vibrating plate if the tiles are higher than the required level. You can also add dry mixture or sand if it is lower. Based on GOST and SNiP, the surface is considered flat if for every 2 meters the height difference is no more than 5-10 mm.
To form the finish, the tiles are sawed using a grinder with diamond blade.
- Preparing the base for laying paving. There are three types of bases:
- sand is poured between the curbs to a height of 5-6 cm, then the sand layer is moistened and compacted, the tiles are laid on wet sand;
- the paving is laid on a cement-sand base; to arrange it, a layer of sand 3 cm high is poured between the curbs, then reinforcing mesh and fill it with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 4 to 1;
- masonry on a concrete base, in this case the cake consists of the following layers: sand on compacted soil (10 cm), gravel (10 cm), reinforcing mesh, road mesh, concrete (12 cm), cement-sand composition (2 cm).
- Paving with paving slabs is carried out in compliance with the following rules:
- work is carried out from the lower point of the coating;
- the master is located on the already laid tiles so as not to damage the prepared base;
- when laying in a circle, work is carried out from its center;
- elements are laid out not in rows, but in a diagonal direction, which facilitates horizontal alignment;
- the cord for leveling the first row is pulled across the width of the track;
- the horizontal is checked with a level after 3 rows;
- the tiles are installed by tapping with a mallet;
- if necessary, add sand or a sand mixture under the element;
- a gap of 3 mm is made between adjacent elements (usually crosses are used if the tiles do not have a remote lock).
- Grouting of joints takes place in two stages. First, pour sand onto the paving and sweep it along the seams with a broom. After this, the seams are spilled cement-sand mixture(proportion 1 to 1). Available for sale ready-made mixtures for seams. Then the path is generously sprayed with water.
Step-by-step technology for laying paving slabs on sand
 | Landscape assessment and marking. The site for laying paving slabs must have the necessary slope for the outflow of rain and melt water. The outflow of water, as a rule, is done towards the street. Laying of paving slabs will be carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the platform should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Use a level to measure. |
 | Preparing the bed. Remove the top layer of soil and remove plant roots over the entire area of the future sidewalk path or site. Remove excess soil from the protruding areas and add those areas where there are holes, and carefully compact the bottom. Pay special attention to areas with loose soil. |
 | Backfilling with sand. Pour sand into the prepared bed in a layer of 5-15 cm and carefully level its surface with a rake or rule. Keep an eye on the level and follow the leveling cord. |
 | Moisturizing the base. WITH minimum consumption 10 l per square meter Water the entire base generously with a hose or watering can. |
 | Compacting the base. To avoid subsidence of the base during further use of the sidewalk, manual tamper compact the sandy base thoroughly. |
 | |
 | Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, the rows are laid diagonally. The master moves forward, kneeling on the already laid tiles, so as not to damage the even base. When laying in a circle, the movement begins from the center of the circle. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles using a level, not forgetting the required slope. With massive rubber mallet recess the protruding tiles to the required depth. Under those tiles that are below the planned level, sprinkle a few stones and a little extra sand. |
 | Filling gaps. Fill the gaps between the tiles with dry mixture or sifted sand. To do this, pour sand onto the sidewalk and use a brush to move it over the entire surface. Remove excess sand or dry mixture with a weak stream of water. Make sure that sand does not wash out of the cracks between the tiles. |
 | Surface cleaning. Remove dirt and any remaining mixture from the surface of the pavement using a brush. |
Step-by-step technology for laying on crushed stone with a dry mixture
Laying on a crushed stone base with a dry mix is recommended for areas with moderate traffic and light vehicle parking areas.
 | Landscape assessment and marking. Laying of paving slabs is carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the platform should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Venues big size divided into strips using pegs and leveling cords. |
 | Preparing the bed. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of the future sidewalk. Remove plant roots to prevent future regrowth. Remove excess soil from the protruding areas and add those areas where there are holes, and carefully compact the bottom. Pay special attention to areas with loose soil. |
 | Backfilling of crushed stone. Fill the prepared bed with crushed stone in a layer of 10-20 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level and follow the leveling cord. |
| Compacting crushed stone manually. | |
 | . Dig trenches along the edges of the base to the required depth. Plant curbs on the M100 solution, and then pour concrete over them and fill them with sand. |
 | Backfilling the cement-sand mixture. Place a mixture of cement and sand on top of the crushed stone in a layer of 5-10 cm. If necessary, install reinforcing mesh. Carefully level the cement-sand mixture. |
 | Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, the rows are laid diagonally. The master moves forward, kneeling on the already laid tiles, so as not to damage the even base. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles using a level, not forgetting the required slope. Using a heavy rubber mallet, drive the protruding tiles to the required depth. Sprinkle a few stones and dry mixture under those tiles that are below the planned level. |
 | Wetting the pavement and filling cracks. Spray the surface of the sidewalk generously with plenty of water. After the surface of the path has completely dried, fill all the cracks between the tiles with a dry mixture. Water the path one more time, making sure that the filler does not wash out from the gaps between the tiles. |
 | Surface cleaning. Remove excess mortar from the pavement surface to prevent it from hardening. Make sure that all joints are completely filled with the mixture and that the sidewalk is clear of mortar. The coating is ready for use. |
Step-by-step laying of paving slabs on a concrete base
 | Landscape assessment and marking. For proper drainage of rain and melt water, paving slabs are laid from the zero line - the lowest section of the site according to the plan. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the platform should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Large areas are divided into strips using pegs and leveling cords. |
| Preparing the bed. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of the sidewalk being constructed. Remove plant roots to prevent future regrowth. Remove excess soil from the protruding areas and add those areas where there are holes, and carefully compact the bottom. Pay special attention to areas with loose soil. |
| Backfilling of crushed stone. Fill the prepared bed with crushed stone in a layer of 10-15 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level and follow the leveling cord. |
| Compacting crushed stone. | |
 | Installation of formwork. Place formwork boards more than 4 cm thick along the edges of the future site or sidewalk. Secure the boards with stakes driven in at a distance of 60-100 cm from each other. |
 | Pouring concrete. Concrete is poured in a layer of 5-15 cm. To improve the strength characteristics, reinforcement is made with road mesh. To do this, concrete is first laid in a layer of 3 cm, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it, then concrete is poured onto required height. To avoid cracks in the concrete base in winter or during large area styling, it is necessary to leave the so-called expansion joints 0.5 cm every 3 meters. |
 | Leveling the concrete surface. Carefully level the concrete surface, taking into account the level of the base and the required slope. |
 | . Dig trenches along the edges of the base to the required depth. Plant curbs on the M100 solution, and then pour concrete over them and fill them with sand. |
 | Laying tiles. Moisten the concrete surface and lay the tiles on a layer of 1-3 cm of cement-sand screed. |
 | Filling expansion joints. To protect against cracking, seal expansion joints with elastic filler. |
 | Filling gaps between tiles. Carefully fill the gaps between the tiles with grout or mortar, making sure that the mortar does not get on front side stones. Immediately remove excess grout from the tile surface. The coating will be ready for use in 48 hours. |
Installation cost and work price per m2
The prices for laying paving slabs are shown in the table below; these are weighted average prices for the market. The table shows work for both m2 and linear meter in rubles at the rate of 60 rubles. for $. Depending on the type of work. As well as the cost of related and additional work.
| Name of works | Unit change | Price, rub. |
|
m 2 | from 1800 rub. |
|
Laying paving slabs on a turnkey basis, taking into account materials
|
m 2 | from 1600 rub. |
| Paving with granite paving stones and installing a base of dry cement-sand mixture, taking into account the cost necessary materials(the price depends on the complexity of the installation pattern. The price does not include granite paving stones) | m 2 | 2100 rub. |
|
Laying paving slabs, cost of work without materials
|
m 2 | from 650 rub. |
|
Laying paving slabs on a finished base |
||
|---|---|---|
| Laying paving slabs on a finished base | m 2 | 450 rub. |
| Paving with granite paving stones on a finished base | m 2 | 950 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs on concrete | m 2 | 450 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs on mortar | m 2 | 550 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs on sand | m 2 | 500 rub. |
| Laying paving slabs under a car | m 2 | 2250 rub. |
|
Installation of curb stones |
||
| Turnkey installation of curbstones with materials | p.m. | 450 rub. |
| Installing curbstones without materials | p.m. | 200 rub. |
| Installing a garden border | PC. | 250 rub. |
| Installing a road curb | PC. | 400 rub. |
|
Preparing the base for paving slabs |
||
| Construction of a base made of crushed limestone, layer thickness 100 mm | m 2 | 100 rub. |
| Construction of a concrete base with road mesh reinforcement, layer thickness 150 mm. M-200 (without materials) | m 2 | 580 rub. |
| Construction of a concrete base h = 100 mm with reinforcement (without materials) | ||
To lay paving slabs you will need the following:
- tiles and borders;
- crushed stone and sand;
- cement and trowel;
- water and bucket;
- level and rule;
- tape measure and pencil;
- pegs and cord;
- rubber hammer and rammer;
- angle grinder with diamond disc;
- rake and shovel;
- watering can and broom;
- UD profiles for drywall or steel pipes;
- geotextiles - optional.
Depending on the shape of the tile, there are many laying patterns to achieve different patterns. As a rule, all manufacturers supply their products with similar information, so you should not have a problem choosing a circuit.
Don't forget what more complex form paving slabs and the pattern that needs to be obtained, the higher the labor intensity and the more trimming. If you want to simplify your work as much as possible, choose rectangular or square shape, and make the platforms with straight lines. Ideally, generally adjust the paving area to the size of a whole number of tiles in order to avoid trimming.
- Calculate the width of the future path by adding up the number of tiles in the row. Don't forget to include the thickness of the borders and add 5-10 cm on both sides.
- Measure the required distance with a tape measure and use wooden or metal pegs to mark the area for laying the paving slabs. To keep them out of the way, use two pins at each corner and drive them in at a distance of 20–30 cm.
- Stretch a cord between the pegs and outline the perimeter of the work area.
- Check the diagonals of the resulting rectangle and make sure they are the same. If the distances are different, achieve exact size, moving the pegs.
dvabrevna.ru - If there is old covering on the ground, remove it.
- Carefully remove the topsoil with a shovel. Usually it is 30–40 cm.
- Make sure all roots and grass are removed to prevent them from growing through the tiles.
- Level the soil with a rake and compact it well over the entire area of the trench using a hand tamper.
- To drain water from the surface of the tile, form a slope on one side of the trench at the rate of 1 cm per linear meter.
thewalls.ru Paving slabs are a relatively mobile surface, so curb stones are always installed along the edges of the paving. They prevent it from spreading due to soil heaving. To fix the curbs themselves, they are installed on concrete. The height of the curb can be either higher than the tile or flush with its surface.
- Using a shovel, dig small trenches slightly wider than the curb on both sides of the site.
- Prepare a mixture according to the following calculation: 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sand and 2 buckets of crushed stone. Add a little water to make the solution thick and not runny.
- Place the solution in the trenches and place curbs on top.
- Press the stones onto the concrete by tapping them with a rubber mallet and level them along the line to the desired height.
- Wait a day for the material to harden.
mg-trotuar.ru Paving slabs are laid on a well-compacted pad. Sand is sufficient for pedestrian garden paths and playgrounds; driveways to garages and parking lots are additionally reinforced with a layer of crushed stone. The gravel bed is also used for high level groundwater, acting as drainage and preventing heaving. Sometimes, for greater strength and protection against root germination, geotextiles are laid between the soil and the bedding.
How to make a walkway cushion
- Pour sand into the trench and moisten it with water.
- Compact well with a tamper to obtain a layer of 15–20 cm.
- With sufficient density, shoe marks will not remain on the sand.
How to make a pillow for a platform under a car
- Place geotextiles on the compacted soil (optional).
- Level the bottom of the trench thin layer sand and tamp down thoroughly.
- Fill in medium-fraction crushed stone and compact to obtain a layer of 20–25 cm.
- Sprinkle sand on top, moisten and compact to a layer of about 5 cm.
7. Prepare and level the cement-sand mixture along the beacons
- Mix a dry cement-sand mixture (CSM) at the following rate: 1 bucket of cement per 5-6 buckets of sand.
- Install level beacons from UD profiles for drywall or pipes. Form a slope of 1 cm by 1 m for water drainage.
- Fill a 2–4 cm high layer of CPS between the beacons and level it using the rule.
- When pits form, add the remaining amount of mixture and pull along the guides until the surface is level.
- Carefully remove the beacons and fill the resulting voids with the DSP.
stroyrom.ru - Start laying paving slabs from the corner that will be most visible and from the lowest point if there is a natural slope at the site.
- Install the tiles away from you so as not to step on the prepared surface.
- Place the bricks in their place, pushing them down and knocking them tightly together with a rubber hammer.
- Use a level to check that the horizontal plane is level.
- If any tile becomes lower than the others, remove it and add a little TSP.
- If there are undercuts, first lay all the whole paving stones, and then use an angle grinder to cut out pieces of the required shape and install them.
belminstroy.by The final touch is to fill the outer sides of the curb stones with soil. Carefully fill the trenches with soil, level with a rake and compact with a tamper. If necessary, reseed the grass to restore the lawn.
If you want to beautifully arrange the paths on summer cottage, then you will need to learn everything about paving slabs and base preparation methods. Especially important factor becomes directly creating the right pie from sand, gravel before laying the tiles on a dry mortar. The technology itself of creating a cake of layers of sand and gravel has proven itself quite well, and all thanks to its strength, beauty and durability.
Today, there are dozens, or even hundreds, of types of tiles, which allows everyone to choose one that will fully meet all preferences. At first glance, installation work concrete tiles may seem like a rather complicated process. But don't be scared, everything is not as difficult as it seems. This work, depending on the volume, can be completed in just a few days. And when small areas everything is done independently.
Tile selection
Before starting work it is worth Special attention pay attention to the type of tile. In total, there are two main categories:
- Vibrocast tiles.
- Stamped.
In most cases, it is best to give preference to the first option, since it is quite economical in financially, and in addition, such material has an attractive appearance.
You should also pay attention to the thickness of the material. Depending on where the tracks will be laid out, you should also use different material. In particular:
- When laying paths and garden paths A tile 2 centimeters thick is suitable.
- When the coating is exposed to heavy loads, for example, from cars, it is worth providing thicker tiles. Preferably from 40-45 to 60 millimeters. Note that 4 centimeters is enough for an ordinary car, but with the possible impact of many-ton vehicles, it is worth protecting yourself from damage with more expensive tiles.
The next factor to choose is the design to be performed. Worth using for the first time standard tiles with ligaments. There is no need to take a diamond, brick or paving stone, since a beginner will not have the skill level for such work. Therefore, you will have to attract specialists
And the last is the color scheme, which has hundreds of shades. You can choose something for yourself personally. The only difference is the cost.
Before making the right pie for laying paving slabs, depending on the base soil and the purpose of the coating, it is important to determine the technology of the work.
Preparing the base for installation
And gradually we move on to preparing the base for laying tiles on the mortar. Now, the first thing to do is to examine the slope of the site where the installation will be carried out. At the same time, we note that the coating must be provided with a slope of at least a few degrees, in order to avoid stagnation of water in the yard.
Classic scheme laying garden tiles Required tools and materials
Now let's move on directly to the necessary “weapons” to carry out the work. So, we will need:
- Quite a lot of sand, since it is necessary to make the base from it. Its quantity will depend directly on the area where the tiles are laid.
- Of course, the tile itself.
- Additionally, you will need to install a border.
- Cement for mixing cement mortar.
- For marking, you need a strong thread, as well as metal or wooden pegs.
- You will also need a regular and rubber hammer.
- Wheelbarrow for removing waste and transporting materials.
- Tamper for foundation installation.
- Construction level and rule.
- Buckets, shovel and trowel.
- To cut concrete, you need a special one or a grinder.
- Also two steel pipes.
- Broom.
- And the last ingredient will be knee pads, since you will have to work on your knees.
The use of penoplex when arranging the base of a garden path
Perhaps the best replacement for concrete when arranging a sidewalk path is a foam sheet that creates an additional bridge against soil freezing and serves as an outflow of groundwater. This situation can be prevented by using a gravel pie and thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam before laying paving slabs. Usually, a lot is described about arranging a blind area around the house using foam plastic and polystyrene sheets, but this technology is suitable for sidewalk paths and is considered the best option. 
The technology for using polystyrene foam when arranging paths is to create the right pie of drainage layers. 
At the first stage, the soil is leveled using a sand cushion and compacted. Next, the installation of the slabs on the sand is carried out with the seams staggered. The thickness of the penoplex under the sidewalk is usually 5-10 cm, depending on the load and composition of the soil. Then crushed stone is poured onto the insulation to serve as drainage. The next layer is a layer of geotextile (it is possible to replace geotextile with a fine fraction of crushed stone). 
When arranging a path, it is important to place the curb stone evenly, maintaining proportional dimensions. 
To keep the tiles in place, it is better to use a dry mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1*4; this will allow the tiles to be firmly fixed. We begin to lay paving slabs on this composition, leveling them according to the level. Ideally, when carrying out work, use a vibrating plate.
Then rub a dry mixture of sand and cement into the cracks of the surface to increase the water resistance of the path and fix the tiles.
Marking for tiles
To create a slope, we take the street level as a basis, this will become the starting point, namely the zero level, which you need to focus on. Celebrating straight line, in relation to which the slope will be performed. We drive pegs along the edges of this line and stretch the thread between them. The thread itself must be strictly horizontal, which is checked by a level (it is best to apply it from below).
The next step is to tie a thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first mark. At the same time, the second end of the thread should also be secured to pegs, and in such a way that its level is slightly higher than the first end. Those. the thread will be at a slight slope of several degrees.
Next, we tighten the next one, the tension is carried out parallel to the first thread. It must be strictly horizontal. And the last step is to connect the first and last pegs, thus getting closed loop in the form of a square or rectangle.
Technology with pouring a concrete base
First you need to remove the soil a little. The depth of a small pit will be 20-25 centimeters. After arranging it, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of debris, then cover it with 10-15 centimeters of crushed stone, and compact it, depending on the required slope.
And finally, you can proceed directly to pouring the base, for which a solution of crushed stone, cement and sand will be used in a ratio of 2:1:3.
First of all, we build the formwork, the height of which should be slightly higher than the concrete layer. In addition, the thickness of the boards must be more than 4 centimeters, otherwise the structure will not withstand the pressure of concrete.
We lay the reinforcing mesh on the crushed stone and begin pouring. Initially, a layer of 5 centimeters is poured, after which an additional mesh is laid and the remaining 10 centimeters are poured.
Three days later, after the solution has dried, the tiles are laid on the concrete base.
Laying tiles
The base is ready and the tiles can now be laid on the concrete. And further we will consider step-by-step algorithm carrying out work on this issue. In total, the process itself will be divided into several parts, including:
- Arrangement of the border.
- Backfilling the site with cement-sand mixture.
- Directly laying tiles on a concrete base.
- Filling seams.
- And the last stage is preparation for operation.
Let's get straight to the point and look at each stage in more detail.
Arrangement of the border
The first thing you need to do is install curbs to fix the paving slabs and prevent them from moving.
To install the curb, you need to make markings; the markings that were made for pouring concrete are also quite suitable. Threads in in this case located at the height of the future curb. It is important not to forget about the slope. 
A trench is dug along the completed marking, which in its depth completely corresponds to the part of the curb that will be located underground, plus 3 to 5 centimeters are added for a cement pad. For example, if you plan to make a fence 15 centimeters high, and the base material is 25 centimeters high, then the approximate depth of the trench will be 13-15 cm.
The width should correspond to the dimensions of the stone, taking into account a gap of 1 cm on each side. Accordingly, with a stone width of 8 centimeters, the trench should be 10 cm in size.
Now we mix the cement mortar and lay it out in a 3-5 cm layer at the bottom of the trench, after which the border itself is laid.
The important fact is that the stones must be driven into a layer of cement mortar, for which a rubber hammer is used.
A day later, the distance between the walls and the border of the trench is filled with sand. In this case, it is necessary to moisten it and compact it.
Backfilling the cement mixture
The next step is to fill the mixture, which requires dividing the marked area into separate lines (strips). Their width should correspond to the length of the selected rule (in particular, 20-30 centimeters narrower than the rule itself).
Next, we retreat the selected distance from the zero mark, driving in a peg. We do the same on the other side. These pegs must be connected to each other. The height of the thread must be aligned in accordance with the sides parallel to which it is stretched. In this way, the entire area is divided.
Now you need to fill the base. As you know, paving slabs are usually laid on concrete using a dry cement-sand mixture. This composition contains one part cement and six parts sand, without adding water.
Backfilling is carried out over the entire site in a layer of 6-7 centimeters. In this case, leveling and compaction become a mandatory factor.
And the final stage of preparing the base is to level it in accordance with the markings. Thus, in places where the distance from the thread to the prancing is too large, it is necessary to add mixtures. In those areas where the thread is too low, it should be removed a little. Note that the gap should be approximately 1.5-2 times the thickness of the selected tile.
Sidewalk laying options And a particularly important factor is the compaction of the garter in those places where it is poured. For this purpose it is used special device– rammer. You can see an example in the photo below.
In some cases, pure sand is used instead of this type of mixture, but it is less effective because it fixes the tiles much worse. Unlike a cement base, which, when absorbing moisture, adheres quite well to both concrete surface, and with tiles. Accordingly use clean sand makes it much easier to replace broken tiles or repair surfaces.
In the case when we are talking about laying heavy equipment in a place where heavy equipment accumulates, even the decision to use a paving slab does not help, but in this case, a special adhesive for paving slabs comes to the rescue.
Using this kind of solution allows you to maximize the durability of the tiles, but the pitfall is that this kind of coating cannot be repaired. Thus, even if several tiles are broken, they will have to be removed with a hammer drill; therefore, they cannot be re-laid.
Laying garden tiles
The next step is to figure out how to lay tiles on a concrete base. And everything is done quite simply. The tile is laid on the underlying layer and tamped into it using a rubber hammer. Accordingly, it is necessary to fully control its horizontality and correct position, which is done using a bypass, level and a tensioned thread.
The technology for laying concrete tiles involves gradual advancement and direct laying away from you. This way you will move across the freshly laid surface. If there are obstacles on the way that cannot be eliminated, go around them with whole tiles.
If installation is not particularly difficult, then paving the yard needs to be approached more responsibly. The area is large, the loads in the form of cars are considerable, and the coating should look beautiful and neat. The most reasonable choice in this case is paving slabs. Unlike concrete, the work can be carried out in stages; the tile itself is quite durable and can be easily repaired if necessary.
Materials and tools
The thickness of the tiles can vary from 2 to 6 cm. For a yard where cars can drive, it is worth choosing tiles 4 cm thick, as thinner ones may crack. Tiles 2-3 cm thick are only suitable for paving areas that will not bear increased loads. Vibro-cast tiles are a little more expensive than stamped tiles, but stronger and more beautiful.
The color, shape and pattern on the tile are selected based on exterior finishing Houses. Gray is the cheapest. The easiest way to lay shaped tiles with your own hands is to lay small diamond-shaped and rectangular tiles. Required amount tiles are calculated depending on the area of the yard; the calculation method may differ among different manufacturers.
In addition to the tiles you need:
- sand without clay impurities (2-3 tons for an average yard),
- cement,
- border for fencing off the site,
- fishing line or strong thread and pegs for marking,
- for cutting concrete,
- rubber mallet or mallet,
- shovel,
- press for compacting soil and sand,
- rule length 150-200 cm,
- roulette and level,
- trowel or trowel,
- old hard broom or brush,
- protective gloves.
Preparatory stage: marking and compacting the site
The turf and top layer of soil are removed from the area on which the tiles will be laid. A layer of sand or small crushed stone 5-7 cm thick is placed in the resulting pit.
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine whether the site has a slope, due to which water will not collect. The best option– a slope of several degrees towards the street. If the yard has a slope towards the house, then you will have to take care of drainage.
The lowest point of the site is taken as the zero mark, and the line to which the plane is inclined is taken as the zero line. Two pegs are driven in at its ends, and a thread is pulled between them, which must be strictly horizontal (this is checked by a level). Another thread is tied to one of the already hammered pegs and pulled perpendicular to the first. Its other end is attached to a peg so that the entire thread has a slope of several degrees to the zero line.
The thread is again tied to the third peg and secured parallel to the zero line strictly horizontally. The fourth and first pegs are connected to each other, forming the outline of the area within which the tiles will be laid. If the site has a shape other than a quadrangle, then it can be visually divided into parts and a contour can be built for each of them.
For ease of work, the entire site is divided into strips 10-20 centimeters wide (already the rules). This is done by laying equal distances on the threads perpendicular to the zero line and driving in pegs. The pegs are connected by a thread that is located horizontally and at the same level with the threads forming the sides of the rectangle.
Marking is a painstaking and tedious stage, but only with it correct application the tiles will be laid with professional quality.
After marking, the sand is leveled on the site. They remove it where it reaches the thread and add it where it is far from it. As a result, there should be a distance of 8-9 cm between the thread and the surface along the entire length. The sand is thoroughly leveled and pressed down.
Laying tiles
Before laying, the tiles must be inspected and any defective or broken ones must be eliminated. Suitable tiles are laid out in stacks around the perimeter of the site, taking into account the color and pattern, so that when laying you do not have to go after them every time.
Immediately before installation, prepare in a ratio of 6:1. It is better to take sand wet. To prevent it from drying out, prepare a little for each strip.
The cement-sand mixture is laid out on the first strip, leveled and compacted well. At the beginning of the strip, add more mixture, compact it with your hands and level it using the rule. Lay the tile, making sure that its sides coincide with the marking threads. Press down on it, sinking it into the mixture, and tap it with a mallet. Adjacent tiles are laid in the same way, and then the rows. The distance between the tiles is about 5 mm. In those places where the tiles will experience increased loads - near curbs, gates - it is worth laying them not on a mixture, but on a cement-sand mortar.
Rows of tiles are laid out from themselves in order to move along the already laid one. Obstacles in the form of hatches, covers, pillars are treated with whole tiles. All work on finishing and cutting pieces is best done at the end. The tile is cut with a grinder with a diamond blade and then broken off.
The seams between the laid tiles must be filled with a cement-sand mixture. It is scattered on top of the tiles, and then swept into the cracks with a hard broom or brush. If the work drags on for several days, then this operation is repeated at the end of each day. This backfill additionally fixes the tiles.
The edges of the area on which the tiles were laid are bordered. A narrow trench of appropriate depth is dug under it, a little solution is poured into it and a curb is installed. Empty spaces along the border are filled with cut tiles or special “halves”, which each manufacturer has.
Finishing touches
After laying all the tiles and borders, the seams must be filled again with a mixture of sand and cement. If possible, it is worth walking over the laid tiles with a vibrating press, this will press them even more firmly into the base. The finished area is watered generously with water - it washes away the sand and, penetrating under the tiles, helps it adhere more firmly to the sand cushion.