Rationally located and trouble-free plumbing in the bathroom is an important component of the comfort of the owners. Its flawless connection is a guarantee good relations with neighbors from the apartment below. To achieve the ideal, you need professional installation, the price of which not everyone agrees with.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with detailed description the process of installing and connecting plumbing fixtures made of cast iron, acrylic, steel. We thoroughly outline the nuances of connecting to the sewerage system. The information we present is supplemented by photo collections, diagrams, and videos.
Modern industry offers us baths different shapes and colors made from various materials. Due to the variety of models, the home owner is always faced with the problem of choice.
If the shape of the container and its color concern us more from an aesthetic point of view, then the important performance characteristics of the product depend on the material of manufacture: its practicality, appearance and durability.
In addition to the material, dimensions and configuration of the bowl, the choice of bath is influenced by the size of the hygienic room, the height of the sides that is convenient for all members of the family, the presence additional accessories and functions
In the production of bath bowls the following are used:
- Steel. Steel plumbing attracts affordable price, abundant assortment. Thanks to its lightness, installation can be completed without the help of assistants. The disadvantages include high heat transfer, the ability to deform, sag under the weight of large people, and “noisiness” when taking water into the bowl.
- Cast iron. Expensive, reliable, durable. It does not make noise when filling with water and perfectly maintains the temperature in the container. Due to its impressive weight, installing a cast iron bathtub cannot be done alone. Plumbing fixtures are quite fragile; if handled carelessly, you can break the bowl or damage the enamel.
- Acrylic. Lightweight and inexpensive option, which is easier and more logical to replace than to repair. It doesn’t sound when filling with water, it retains heat, but it doesn’t last long enough and isn’t very stable. You can easily handle the installation yourself.
If there are people in the family with impressive weight, it is advisable to install sanitary containers made of steel and acrylic on pedestals made of brick or additional supports constructed from it.
These measures will ensure stability and stabilize the position of the bottom. For owners with a less respectable build, instead of capital brick fixtures, a device is enough additional frame from a bar or steel profile.
Features of installing a cast iron bathtub
Cast iron is a heavy material. And the bathtub made from it has a lot of weight. So that this massive object does not damage doorways and furniture, you need to properly organize installation work. The bathtub should be adjusted and connected directly in the bathroom, without moving the container to other rooms.
Some cast iron bathtubs can be equipped with decorative legs. Such models become a real interior decoration and a designer find. If, in the process of adjusting the level of such a bathtub, you use raising gaskets, you can completely destroy all the efforts of the designer.
Check out the legs of this charming cast iron model. Of course, it is impossible to unscrew or lengthen them by placing some materials under them, but they must stand on a perfectly flat surface
You can get around this point by filing the legs at the base, but only a professional can perform this work efficiently.
There are also special features when connecting the drain to the sewer. It's better not to put it on its side. You can simply lift the front of the container. This will create additional space, which will be enough to complete the work. The structure should be temporarily fixed in in the right condition, using wooden blocks.
General principle carrying out the work consists in maximum accuracy and in the absence of the possibility of moving a heavy container.
A guide to installing a cast iron container on bricks, if there is a need for this solution, can be found in the section posted on our website.
The nuances of installing a plastic bathtub
Plastic bathtubs are a cheap analogue of acrylic models, therefore the installation process for these models is similar to each other. But of course there is a difference. For plastic construction must be created special pillow, the task of which is to relieve the load on the bottom of the product.
The pillow can be made of wood (larch) or cement. Bathtubs made of plastic should be used very carefully. Groom her with aggressive detergents Absolutely forbidden. If these nuances are ignored, then after 7, or even 5 years, the bathtub will need to be thrown out.
Construction of a bath screen
The space between the bathtub and the floor may not be closed if outside surface The model has an attractive appearance. But more often we still try to close this gap.
This can be done using, for example, . This bathroom accessory is sold in stores, but some people prefer homemade screens. Homemade products attract with their uniqueness and low cost.
Those who think that a bath screen is only used for the purpose of covering lateral surface baths are wrong. It can become a storage place for all kinds of household chemicals and hygiene products
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Installing any bathtub is not as easy as it might seem. This video presents some editing nuances that you should pay attention to. Take a look and see if you can do this job yourself:
The theory of how to install different types DIY baths, we have outlined for you. All that remains is to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. We warn you that theory is not always easily translated into practice.
You will have to skillfully use different instruments, as well as demonstrate knowledge of the intricacies of the installation process. Particular attention should be paid to cast iron products. Take reasonable care to avoid injury to your hands and feet.
You can ask a question or tell us about how you installed the bathtub yourself and connected it to the sewer in the block below. Please comment and share useful information. We and site visitors are interested in your opinion.
The bathroom in any house or apartment takes pride of place, so creating a cozy atmosphere in it is the key to comfort. In order for visiting a room to evoke pleasant emotions, it is necessary to periodically make repairs to it; it is better if the repairs are combined with the replacement of plumbing. Progress does not stand still, and banal cast-iron bathtubs can be replaced with more prestigious ones. We will talk about how to install the bathtub itself with your own hands in our article.
Installing a bathtub with your own hands is easy and simple if you know at least the basics of this work. You should also not refuse the help of specialists or friends, especially when it comes to cast iron models. Let's analyze the installation steel bath, which consists of several important steps.
Step-by-step instruction:
Subtleties of installing bathtubs on different floor coverings
The material from which the bathtub is made affects the process of laying tiles. If you decide to install an acrylic bathtub, which has a relatively light weight, then the tiles should be placed first on the floor and then on the wall.
If you install cast iron construction, then the order of laying the tiles changes slightly. First of all, the tiles are laid on the floor, then the bathtub is installed, and from the line of contact between the bathtub and the wall, you need to start laying tiles on the walls.
If your bathroom already has floor tiles, then you need to make sure that installed bath was stable and did not slip on the floor. To do this, you need to secure the base with waterproof polymer glue, and “dress” the legs themselves with plastic tips that will protect your tiles from scratches.
Types of baths
If you decide to change the bathtub, then you need to consider two parameters:
- bath shape.
- material.
Depending on the shape, the bath can be:
- round;
- oval;
- rectangular;
- square;
- angular.
Depending on the material used to make the bathtub, there are:
- steel;
- cast iron;
- acrylic;
- wooden;
- marble;
- concrete and others.
The most popular are the baths in the first four positions. If you decide to install a cast iron or acrylic bathtub, then our tips will definitely come in handy.
Installation of a cast iron bath
Installation of a cast iron bathtub begins with its installation, which has its own nuance. When skidding drainer should be located on the pipe side. In addition, the bathtub must be placed on its side so that the bottom is on your side, as in the photo.
A cast iron bathtub can be installed in two ways, on legs or brick supports. If it was decided to install a bathtub 
on brick supports, they need to be prepared in advance. The height of such supports should be calculated taking into account the height of the edges. Place the bathtub on them. You can see how it should turn out in the photo.
If metal supports were chosen for mounting the bowl, their fastening is described in detail in the installation of a steel bathtub. Please pay attention Special attention tightening the bolts so as not to overdo them.
To avoid water stagnation when installing a bathtub, you must follow one rule - its inclined position. Usually 3-5 degrees is enough to tilt the bathtub towards the drain to ensure good drainage.
All that remains is to check the bathtub for stability and horizontal sides, using a level, as in the photo. 
Installing an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame
Installing such a bathtub is slightly different from the technologies of the previous two methods. Because plastic bath cannot boast of its strength and rigidity, then to install it you need a frame that will take the main load on itself. The frame can be purchased or made independently. This is what the bathtub looks like in a factory frame.
If, in addition to the bathtub, you purchase additional equipment, then installation of the bowl will be simple and quick. For this type of bath you need to purchase:
- parts for fixing the bathtub to the wall;
- parts for fixing panels to the bathtub;
- water drainage system;
- protection panel;
- frame.
How to install a bath:
- The first thing you need to do is measure the height of the drain hole and compare whether it matches the height of the bowl;
- Apply markings on the walls for installation of fasteners, install them;
- Install the frame;
Please note that the properties of the bathtub require fixation on three sides, otherwise there is no need to talk about its rigidity.
- The bathtub must be brought into the room, observing the position of the drain hole;
- Secure all supports;
- Install the bathtub into the frame;
- Check it for horizontalness.
The protective film is removed from the bathtub only when everything is construction works were completed.
If you need to restore your bathtub, we tell you.
Installation of an acrylic bathtub on a homemade frame
Installing a bathtub into a DIY frame is no different from the previous method. The only difference is in the frame itself, which will take more time to manufacture.
To work you will need:
- wooden beams;
- drying oil;
- moisture-resistant plywood, 15 mm thick;
- self-tapping screws;
- glue;
- corners for fastening.
Step-by-step instructions for making a frame look like this:
To connect the bathtub water supply, it is better to use polypropylene pipes.
Types of drain fittings
When installing bathtubs, several types of drain fittings are used.
- Tubular siphon, has a curved design resembling the letter U, resulting in a hydraulic valve at the bottom. One side of the structure is attached to the bathroom, and the other to the sewer hole;
- Bottle siphon matches its appearance. The structure is attached to drain pipe and has a side pipe that acts as a water seal and sump;
- Drain or flat siphon, which is installed when installing shower trays, or in a situation where you need to install a drain in the floor. This system comes with a dry or hydraulic shutter.
In addition, the listed models are equipped with a system for opening and closing the drain. In this regard, siphons are:
- mechanical;
- semi-automatic;
- automatic.
Depending on the materials, drainage and overflow structures are divided into two groups:
- plastic;
- metal.
Advantages and disadvantages of drain systems
If you cannot decide which drainage system to install, then the advantages and disadvantages of all types listed below will help you make a choice faster.
Tubular siphon
The advantages of a tubular siphon include:
- simple design;
- easy production and affordable price;
- wide passage opening, which eliminates frequent blockages;
- simple installation and technical service.
The disadvantages of such a siphon include:
- inconvenience of use.
Bottle siphon
The advantages of a bottle siphon include:
- compact dimensions;
- aesthetic appearance;
- easy disassembly and cleaning.
The disadvantages of such a system include:
- frequent system blockages.
Tubular design with automatic
This siphon has the following advantages::
- convenient operation;
- aesthetic appearance;
- brass body;
- quality mechanism.
The disadvantages of this siphon include:
- high cost:
- control mechanism, which is exposed to water and dirt;
- poor quality materials;
- moving elements and plastic body.
The last three disadvantages apply only to cheap models.
Homemade baths, how and from what you can make them
If none of the proposed options suits the style of your bathroom, then you can find more extraordinary solution this problem and make a bath with your own hands.
At home, you can make several options for bathtubs:
- Bathtub made of polyethylene. This offer is the most budget-friendly and low-cost. All you need is a large container and the polyethylene itself, which you need to send to the bottom and sides. A more advanced example of such a bathtub is a recess prepared on site and lined with the same material. This option is more suitable for implementing the functions of a small pool;
- Brick bath. For such a bath, you need to prepare a deep tray, which is lined with bricks on the outside. The height of such a bathtub should exceed the level of the tray, but also take into account the wishes of the home owners.
The second option is more demanding, since you need to think through the drainage system in advance. To do this, you need to make a hole in the pan and connect a corrugated pipe to it, the other end of which will connect to the sewer.
You can read how to install a mixer with your own hands.
To build such a bathtub, it is allowed to take narrow formwork modules made of metal. Then finished design will be durable and monolithic. To do this, the frame is poured with concrete and after it dries, the inside is lined with a material with moisture-proof properties. As a result, you should get a small semblance of a swimming pool.
Construction brick bath can be divided into several stages:
- Plumbing work, which provide for the connection of drainage systems to the bathroom. Such work must be done before installing the walls. It is better if, instead of conventional drainage systems, a drain for shower cabins is installed, since if there is a blockage, the hole from above can be easily cleaned;
- Bath construction. The first thing you need to do is measure the entire room and draw up a drawing that will help calculate the quantity the required material. Then you need to line the bottom of the bath with brick, aerated concrete or other types of blocks. For laying bricks, ordinary masonry mortar is used;
The walls of such a bathtub are laid in half a brick. If other types of blocks are used, their thickness should not exceed 100 mm. It is also impossible to make the wall thinner, otherwise it will not withstand the load. If such a need arises, then to strengthen the structure you need to use reinforcement, which will add the required thickness.
- Waterproofing- this is the most important stage in the construction of a brick bath. For these purposes it is necessary to choose roll waterproofing, used for arranging swimming pools or foundations. It is better if such waterproofing is combined with bitumen coating. Waterproofing is done in two layers so that its edges overlap each other. A upper layer need to be covered with a primer to create a good adhesion of the waterproofing to the finishing material;
- Finishing- this is the final stage of work, for which small tiles are used.
As can be seen from our article, installing a bathtub yourself is a process that is not particularly complicated. The desired result can be achieved by maintaining consistency in the process of performing the work. With a careful and attentive attitude to work, you are guaranteed comfort and coziness in the bathroom, as you can see in the video.
Installing a bathtub is a responsible, but relatively uncomplicated undertaking. With a strong desire to cope installation work Can on our own by refusing services third party specialists and saving significant money.
To make the process as easy, fast and interesting as possible, you need to carefully prepare for it.
On modern market sanitary equipment presented acrylic, steel and cast iron bathtubs.
Cast iron containers – time-tested option with impressive service life and heat saving performance. The material is resistant to various loads and generally does not cause any complaints.
The only unpleasant moments are high price such products, as well as heavy weight. Due to the significant mass of the bathtub, installing it yourself can be difficult - you will have to hire an assistant.
Acrylic bathtubs have many advantages, among which:
- light weight;
- almost complete absence of noise when filling with water;
- many different shapes, sizes and configurations;
- affordable price.
Steel bathtubs also weigh little and are relatively cheap, however When filling such a container with water, a lot of noise is created. And steel products do not last long.
So, if you have enough budget and want to buy the most durable and reliable product, give preference to a cast iron bathtub.
If the most priority characteristic for you is non-standard shape and configuration, as well as a beautiful and modern appearance, buy an acrylic product.
If there are no special requirements for the parameters of the bath and desire to save money, feel free to install a steel container. Otherwise, the choice is yours, and the article “” will help you decide faster.
Deciding on the size and shape of the container
The modern market offers bathtubs of a wide variety of shapes (oval, circle, rectangle, corner and non-standard designs) and sizes (on average from 1.2 to 2.1 m).
When choosing the configuration and dimensions of the container, focus on your preferences and available space.
Think about how the new bathtub will fit into the interior of the room, whether it will fit in at all, whether it will be convenient to use the room after installing such a bathtub, etc. In general, these points are left to your discretion..
But there is a number of standards and requirements regarding various clearances and spacing. So at what height should a bathtub be installed correctly and what distance should there be between other elements in the room?
- Before the bath you need to leave order 90 cm free space, as much as possible.
- The size of the space between the toilet and the bathtub should be not less than 75 cm.
- The distance between the top edge of the bathtub without legs and the floor should be about 0.5 m, if the bathtub has legs, this figure increases to approximately 64 cm.
Preparation for installation
Regardless of the chosen material for making the bathtub, for its installation you will need the following tools and accessories:
- Screwdriver Set;
- small grinder;
- chisel;
- level;
- hammer;
- gas key;
- cement mortar;
- insulating tape;
- polyurethane foam;
- drain fittings;
- corrugation with a diameter of 4 cm, rubber cuff 4x5 cm if connected to cast iron pipes, drain-corrugation of 5 cm when connecting to plastic pipes.
It is best to install the bathtub before tiling the walls.– in such a situation, the risk of damage to the finish is significantly reduced.
You need to do the following:
- shut off the water supply;
- dismantle the old bath;
- break out the (plastic) or cut out the (metal) old drain;
- clean the sewer socket and insert the corrugation into it, then carefully coat all joints with a sealant silicone based;
- level the floor if necessary.
When choosing a place to install a new plumbing product, remember: after installing the bathtub, there should be access to the pipes, but at the same time, the container should fit as tightly as possible to the wall.
At the end all you have left is remove construction waste.
Step-by-step instructions for acrylic products
The installation of such a product is carried out in a few simple steps. All you need is follow the given instructions, and everything will definitely work out.
Installation of frame/legs
How to properly install a bathtub with legs or a frame yourself? We do the following:
- unpack the supporting elements;
- turn the bath over and mark on its bottom the places where the legs are attached. One should be placed near the head of the bath, the second closer to the drain hole;
- Drill holes for screws according to the marks.
- screw the mounting brackets to the bathtub. For this we use self-tapping screws. We screw the legs of the sanitary ware to the installed mounting brackets.
The hole depth should be no more than 0.6 cm. Be careful not to drill all the way through the bathtub. For greater convenience, mark the drill using insulating tape.
Siphon connection
We work in the following order:
- first we do connecting the top drain hole, and after – the lower one;
- we assemble the siphon;
- we treat surfaces with a solvent to thoroughly degrease them, and then apply a thick layer of sealing agent.
The choice of siphon should be given special attention. The best option- This chrome plated brass product with a semi-automatic system for opening/closing drain taps.
About installing storage electric water heater you can read in.
Connection to sewerage
One of last stages Each of the above instructions was to connect the bathtub to the sewer. Let's take a closer look at this process.
Kits for connecting the bathtub to the sewer are sold unassembled. We begin work by assembling the system.
First we need to assemble the individual nodes. To do this, take the hose through which the overflow and drain are connected, and put gaskets on it.
The gasket is made on a cone. It needs to be arranged thin side towards the ends of the tube.
Then we put nuts and gaskets on the drain design elements and assemble its body. To do this, screw part of the body to one side and the drain neck to the other. In the end you get a water seal - a ready-made system of tubes.
In order for the connections of structural elements to be of the highest quality and reliability, we place the cone-shaped gasket so that one of its parts fits into the inner diameter of the second part being connected and seals the resulting joint under the influence of a plastic nut.
Our next task comes down to connection of the drain body with the drain pipeline. To do this, we insert the pipeline into the drain body, not forgetting about the rules for installing the gasket, and then tighten the connection using a nut.
Next we proceed to assembling the overflow. To do this, put on the O-ring, then insert the overflow system housing with inside our new bath. Apply to the front side decorative overlay, and then secure the structure with a bolt.
Next to us you need to insert the tube into the overflow body. We do this from the inside of the bathtub. The tube will provide a connection between the drain housing and the overflow.
We attach the drain body to the bathtub. Before doing this, insert the gasket into the drain hole of the bathtub. We place the gasket with the thick side under the bathtub, and the thin side with it. front side.
Attaching the drain body from the inside, then place the drain neck on the drain hole. It must be located on the front side of the sanitary ware.
Attach the drain to the bathtub using a bolt. Carefully tighten the bolt and tighten the rubber sealing gaskets.
Connect the hose from the overflow hole to the drain body and secure it with a plastic nut. We connect the drain hose to the sewer system.
The bath is connected to the sewer. Turn on the water and check the tightness of the connections. If it drips somewhere, carefully tighten the nuts.
We tighten the plastic nuts only by hand, without using any additional tools.
At the end, all that remains is to complete the finishing touches, if you want it or the design idea requires it.
Finishing
There are several main options for finishing the bathtub. You can do the following:
- tiling the bathtub;
- close the space between the top edge of the bathtub and the floor with moisture-resistant plasterboard;
- install ready decorative screen.
Choose a method that do you like best, and get to work.
Regardless of the chosen method finishing, you must leave windows for access to drains and pipes so that if they break down, you can easily carry out the necessary repair measures. It is strictly forbidden to close these places tightly.
Now you own everything necessary information For self-installation and bath connections. Follow the recommendations received, and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck!
Important place in life modern man occupies a bathroom. In fact, this is the place, well after the bedroom of course, where a person begins and ends his day. The place where we put ourselves in order, the place where we wash our things and perform hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room in which we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!
And despite a large number of the functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes is. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people find themselves in such a bathroom at the same time and are unlikely to be able to separate.
It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount of free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures will depend on how it is installed. Taking into account the fact that until recently in most housing stock very little space was allocated for this premises, when carrying out major correct installation This huge water container is of paramount importance.
The issue of organizing space
Now we will consider the issue of bathtub installation, connection to sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.
Of course, despite the small size of the room, I would like to install this ancient invention larger, so that the length allows not only to sit down, but also to lie down in warm water and relieve the fatigue accumulated during the day. Therefore, before installation is carried out, you need to ask yourself another question: - Where in bathroom Is it generally the best place to place it? After all, the way this bathing accessory was installed during “Soviet” times is not a fact that this is the best option.
I will tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is simply microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put a bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the 1.5 m long bathtub was located along long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.
After thinking a little, I decided to place it along the short wall of the room, which is only 1.35 m long, in place of the toilet, and free up as much space as possible. As always, I wanted a little more, and I decided to put a 1.5 m long bathtub along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of water poured.
To do this, it was necessary to make a groove 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and the other. Moreover, on the wall opposite front door(where the mixer is located) I made the groove longer, to the level of the passage, in order to somehow insert this massive object into place.
He brought the bathtub, inserted it into the groove at one end and, as if on rails in the grooves, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to the long side of the four hundred liter tank. The work is certainly hard, but it’s better to spend a little effort and time so that later you can use all the plumbing accessories as conveniently as possible.
But this is so, a lyrical digression, how you can save the existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. Still, I’ll move on to a description of how to install a bathtub - our main question.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub yourself
The technology for installing cast iron and steel bathing tanks will be approximately the same, except that cast iron bath It weighs a lot and is therefore harder to work with. Step by step this process will look like this:
Step 1. We screw the legs, which are in an inverted position, onto the bathtub.
On cast iron baths Due to its manufacture using casting, sometimes there are sagging (casting defects) at the places where the legs are installed. These bulges prevent the leg from completely and properly adhering to the body, and in this case it is recommended to use abrasive wheel, attached to grinding machine(grinder), remove excess metal. Under no circumstances should the sagging be knocked with a hammer (mechanically knocked down with a chisel). Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, you can irretrievably lose a new item.
Step 2. We bring the bathroom in and install it in place.
I performed this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our “artificial sea” as close as possible to the wall and adhere the tiles to the edge, as a result of which the seam between the bathtub and the wall is minimal, and sealing it is not difficult. In my case, when grouting the joints, I simply went through the grout and the seam between the bathtub and the wall.
Step 3. We install the bathtub to the desired height.
At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed-in adjusting bolts suggests the location of the drainage system at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewer level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to place pads under the legs until the required height difference is formed.
Step 4. We adjust the horizontal position of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
To do this, apply a level in the longitudinal and transverse directions to the edge of the bathtub.
By screwing or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontal position. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse direction shows the horizon, then the bathtub is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is caused by technological feature casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.
At this stage, after finishing the horizontal position, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the grooves along which the installation was carried out in place.
Additionally, it is necessary to tighten the lower lock nut on the adjusting bolts of the legs.
Step 5. Installation of sewer drain.
The water seal for draining water from the bathtub is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.
So let's start with assembling it. And the first step is to assemble the individual nodes.
- We put gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;
Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be facing towards the ends of the tube.
- We put a fastening plastic nut and a sealing gasket on the drain hose;
We also orient the gasket with its thin side towards the nearest end of the tube.
- We put the fastening nuts and sealing gaskets on the components of the drain body;
- We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end and part of the body to the other;
The result is a system of tubes that forms a water seal. Water constantly stands in it and prevents penetration unpleasant odors sewer system into our premises.
Please note that when assembling the elements, the cone-shaped gasket of one part must fit into inner diameter another mating part, and, pressing the plastic nut, seal the resulting connection.
- We connect the drain body with the drain pipeline.
We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with the connecting nut.
- We collect the overflow.
Having put on the rubber sealing ring, we insert the body of the overflow system from the inside of the bathtub. We apply a decorative metal plate on the front side and secure the entire structure by tightening the bolt.
- From the inside of the bathtub, insert a tube into the overflow body that connects the overflow and the drain body;
- We fix the drain body to the bathtub. First, insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bathtub.
We place the thin side of the gasket on the front side of the bathtub, the thick one under the bathtub from the bottom of the drain hole.
- We attach the drain body from the inside, and from the front side of the bathtub we place a metal drain neck on the drain hole.
This completes the installation of the bathtub and its connection. You can turn on the water and check all connections for leaks. If digging is detected, it is necessary to slightly tighten the connecting nuts. All plastic nuts are tightened by hand without the use of any tools. Usually this force is quite enough for a high-quality and leak-free connection.
At this point, the installation of the bathtub; the connection to the sewer system can be considered closed.
In the following articles we will continue to talk simply and in our own words about complex things in construction and repair.
Step 1. We print out the purchased bathtub and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, having previously laid it soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, studs, washers, nuts, stands. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, the reinforced frame contains more metal profiles, or the bathtub is supplied immediately with an all-welded frame.
Typically, holes are already drilled in the reinforcement and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to mark and drill holes yourself.
Most acrylic bathtubs are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the line adjacent to the walls with metal hooks and hangers.
If the kit does not include drain fittings, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.
For work you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also don’t forget about silicone-based sealant, a bubble level, a tape measure and a pencil.
Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. Turn the bath over without removing it protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to any side of the bowl.
Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bathtub and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse strips.
We place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bottom of the bathtub.
Step 3. Let's move on to installing the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bathtub, two under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge that will be adjacent to the wall.
We begin to fasten the racks to the profile and side of the bathtub. We install the stand on the side, screw the first long pin into it, and a nut onto the pin. We insert the resulting pin with a stand into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. Secure the stud with a nut and locknut. We screw a plastic support on top.
We assemble the remaining support legs in the same way. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side should be 60 cm.
Short studs are intended for the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, secure them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.
Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.
If necessary wrench Tighten the studs to level the position.
We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks to the sides of the bathtub.
Step 5. Turn the bath over. We take a level and once again double-check the horizontality of the sides. There is no need to make slopes for better water flow.
Step 6. Now you can connect the siphon with overflow, based on the manufacturer's instructions. The general principle for connecting inspection siphons (piping) of the knee type is as follows:
Note! Before the final installation of the bathtub and screen, you can insulate the bottom of the bowl polyurethane foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, bottom and partially capturing the fasteners for the purpose of their additional fixation.
Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bathtub is level, all that remains is to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bathtub. We put the edge of the bathtub on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick siphon corrugation into the sewer hole. After joining, we apply a strip to the junction of the bathtub and the wall silicone sealant and attach the baseboard or protective strip.
Note! To check the quality of the siphon installation and the correct installation of the structure, you should take a full bath cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and reassemble all products in order to eliminate defects.
Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clip fastenings are included. Screwed first top mounts, after which the opposite ones are the lower ones. The decorative panel simply “snaps” onto them.
Attach the squeeze plates to the inserts, setting a distance of 2 mm between the side of the bath and the edge of the squeeze plate 
You can also make a frame for decorative panel from wooden blocks or metal profiles.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
No factory frame? No problem! We can install an acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is even more reliable compared to the method of installing a bathtub on a factory-made frame.
The support can be solid or columnar.
Installing a bathtub on a solid brick base
First step. We temporarily install the bathtub in the place of its future installation and project a drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.
Second step. We lay out the bricks over the entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bath rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.
The bricks are laid on traditional cement mortar.
Third step. Collecting around the perimeter brickwork frame made of sheet plywood. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam substrate. Don't forget to leave the drain hole unfilled.
Fourth step. We evenly foam the surface of the substrate with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the boundaries of the frame. We immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood onto the foam. We use moisture-resistant sheets 10 mm thick.
Fifth step. Seal the drain tightly acrylic bathtub. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to regulate the level of installation of the container.
Sixth step. We pour the previously prepared water into the container and place the bath on the substrate according to the building level.
Seventh step. While the polyurethane foam has not hardened, we adjust the evenness of the installation of the bathtub using supports. As a result, the water in the container should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show “0”.
Eighth step. Having aligned the bathtub, pour water into it to about half the volume. Under the weight of water, the foam will not be able to lift the container, and the bath itself will take on the required slope.
Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container must be recessed into the wall, first outline the outline of the edge on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bath. A hammer drill will help us with this. If a groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, plasterboard or other lightweight material), at the level of the lower cut we simply fix a timber impregnated with , or a steel corner. We will additionally strengthen the supporting bar at the end with stops.
Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. We fill the gaps between the container and the bricks with foam. We install a decorative screen and baseboards.
Example of a bathtub installed on bricks with mosaic finishing 
First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.
Second step. We mark the base at the location where the brick supports are installed. Most correct option– erection of pillars closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bathtub. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.
Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we begin to prepare cement mortar. We are not preparing too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so extra expenses We don't need it.
Fourth step. Let's start laying. We place the support for the back of the bathtub at a height of 190 mm, and the pillar for the front edge of the tank is erected at 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if needed, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the bathtub being installed. The difference in height of the pillars will provide conditions for efficient drainage of water from the container.
Important note! Many modern acrylic bathtubs initially have a sloping bottom to ensure water drainage. If you have such a bathtub, set all the supports level, focusing on the top part.
Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We place the container slowly, moving it tightly towards the walls. We fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathtub with sealant.
If desired, you can additionally fix the bath to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. This type of fastening is used quite rarely, but still occurs.
After making sure that the bathtub is installed correctly, firmly and evenly, we connect the sewerage system, install it, mount a decorative screen and lay the baseboard on the bathtub.
Video - Installing an acrylic bath using a combined method
Video - How to install an acrylic bathtub yourself
Video - Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands