Installation of windows in a house made of timber. Correct installation of windows in a log house

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Correct pigtail in timber house allows you to get beautiful and warm window openings in a short time. They are beautiful and do not require further finishing of the slopes. Such a casing (casing) is a technological product, the production of which requires zero cycle it takes weeks.

Appearance

  • Polished product impregnated with antiseptic. It is pleasing to the eye and pleasant to the touch.
  • WITH outside a quarter is selected in the box for installing a window or door frame
  • All parts of the installed casing fit together with minimal gaps.
  • The width of the casing is equal to the thickness of the wall. This allows you to install the trim immediately after installing the windows.

Diagram of the casing of a window opening in a timber house.

Specifications

  • The casing moves freely in the grooves selected in the walls and does not interfere with the shrinkage of the house
  • Wood moisture content is within 12-14%. This moisture remains in the workpieces after forced drying.
The finishing butt is made from chamber-dried pine or spruce.
  • Groove in casing for installation plastic windows or the door is selected at the factory and corresponds to the width of the frames of future windows
  • The points of contact with the wall are insulated with environmentally friendly insulation.
  • The parts of the pigtail are connected to each other without nails, in a self-jamming lock. It will be good if the locks are additionally coated with sealant.
  • There is a wind lock under the bottom board, also insulated, for example, with jute fiber.
  • In 2018, a glued frame is considered more reliable, that is, made from individual bars glued together under a press.

Proper casing does not require finishing of slopes. That's why it is also called finishing.

The groove for installing a plastic window is clearly visible.

The window sill is part of the casing.

The window looks beautiful. Platbands will give the opening a finished look.

The seam between the casing and the wall is insulated. The lock reliably fixes the casing parts.

The finishing socket allows you to complete the work phase by closing the warm perimeter timber house in short time. The cost may be more expensive than the windows themselves.

Rough casing

The only reason conscious choice rough casing in a timber house, in my opinion, there may be a desire to install a plastic window sill and plastic slopes to match it. You can only save on the type of wood. Because in all other cases, imaginary savings ultimately turn into greater costs.

A high-quality rough frame should also be made from a dry board. Unlike finishing, it does NOT select a quarter. Windows are mounted on mounting plates, like in a stone house or ordinary apartment. Then these plates are covered with extensions, and the end with platbands.

The option of finishing slopes with plastic additions together with plastic window sill.

Rough casing made of dry pine.

Embedding block

Unfortunately, out of ignorance, people often agree to poor-quality rough casing. It is a board with a bar nailed along it, which is placed in a groove selected in the opening. That’s why it’s called “embedded block.”

Poor quality casing

In addition to the costs of finishing the slopes, you can get hidden problems:

  • will guide the board when drying, and it will pull the window along with it
  • a screwed block may become bent and create a gap leading to the street
  • the self-tapping screws of the fastening plates can go right through the casing and fix it to the wall of the house, thereby violating the very idea of ​​the casing

Lumber for casing is purchased on the market. The board sizes are limited in width. This means they can stick out from the wall or be narrower than it. In this case, you will also get access to the platbands.

Casing into the embedded block 1 year after operation. The block had come off, there was little or no insulation. A gap had formed from the house to the street; it was impossible to sit near the window - it was cold!

Suitable formats and sizes

The edging of openings is necessary in houses made of ordinary, planed and profiled timber. Highly recommended for houses made of dry and laminated timber. The main reason for its installation is the phenomenon of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in the volume of wood when drying. When shrinkage occurs, the height of the cut openings decreases, and the timber in the walls can rotate and crack.

Ask a question about casing and windows in the comments and receive a qualified answer. Questions answered real people, who have been working on the glazing of wooden houses for many years!

If you install windows without casing in a house built from freshly sawn or dried timber, then soon through gaps will appear between the beams on both sides of the window to the street - the timber will hang on the screws that secure the window. There will also be a suspended beam that rests on the frame from above. That is, the entire upper part of the house will rest on the window frame. She won't last long. At first the windows will open poorly, then they will stop altogether. The frame will most likely warp and the glass unit will crack.

To prevent this from happening, casing boxes are installed in the openings. For timber houses A T and P type pigtail is suitable. It is easy to distinguish them, look at the end of the pigtail - it will look like the corresponding letter.

P-casing and a quarter.

T-casing made of solid wood with a glued tenon.

Important! The dimensions in the tables are correct for standard window openings. If the length or width of the opening exceeds 2 meters, then install casing with a thickness of 90 mm or more.

Differences in casing for windows and doors

The lower part of the window opening casing can serve as a finishing window sill. His appearance can be modeled to suit your taste. For example, move the window sill inside the room and expand the protruding part to the sides. This is called “with ears.”

In another case, if the window has a plastic window sill, the lower part of the window casing is made thinner than the other parts. This way it retains its function and does not interfere.

Nizhnik with ears = excellent wooden window sill

Window option with a plastic window sill. It also looks harmonious.

The door frame can be supplied without the lower part. In this case, the bottom of the side panels is screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws - wood grouse. This method is optimal if you plan to have a threshold-free floor. Door casing without a threshold is often used. The technology has been proven and the guarantee remains in full.

Casing without threshold on internal doorways.

This is where the differences between window and door frames end. Their side parts and top are the same.

How to make a casing with your own hands

Making clean casing blocks for plastic windows yourself is difficult, but possible. To do this, you will need a planed dry timber or carriage with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the walls in your house. And jute tape, PVA glue, screws, wood sealant, antiseptic impregnation, brush. Construction stapler to secure the jute to the wall.

From simple tools you will need a hammer, a chisel, building level, hacksaw, pencil or marker, ruler, corner. From power tools - chain or Circular Saw, electric planer, manual frezer. The help of one or two friends will not be superfluous.

Before starting work, decide which casing you will do - P or T type. The size of the opening depends on this.

How to cut a casing profile

In a timber house we will make a T-frame, as it is easier to make with our own hands. Here you can do without a router, just one manual disk circular saw which can be rented.

Cut T - casing from solid timber too wasteful. There will be a lot of waste left. Therefore, we will use the option of gluing a tenon into the sides. On the market, such casing is also called a monolith spike.

The final result of the work.

In a house made of profiled timber 150 x 150 mm, we will need a planed board 150 x 50 mm and a block 50 x 50 mm to make a frame. We mark the drawing as follows: on each part there is a quarter cut with a width of 73 mm (! frame width + 3 mm) and a depth of 25 mm, on the sides there is an additional groove of 53x10 mm for a tenon.

Important: when marking a groove in the frame for installation window frame, find out the profile thickness of this frame. Most often in middle lane Russia uses a 70 mm profile.

For the top we take a beam 150 x 50 mm.



Windowsill. With a wind lock made of 150x90 mm timber and without a wind lock made of 150x50 mm timber.

Longitudinal cuts are made with a circular saw. If the cutting depth is not enough, carefully cut out the remaining wood with a chisel. We also select the groove for the wind lock using a chisel or a router.

And this is what a drawing of the sides of a classic casing deck looks like. The top and window sill are marked in the same way as the T-view.

Drawing of the side parts of the P-casing.

Dimensional tolerance table

Quarter
Sampling for installation of frames
The width will be equal to the width of the frame + 3 mm.

The depth when casing a window opening depends on the height of the blind profile to the glazing bead and to the hinges. If the hinge is close to the casing, then it will not be possible to open the window completely. Usually the frame extends into the quarter by 10-15 mm, another 10 mm is left for the mounting angles.

Groove for tenon insertion
Lateral parts of the T-casing
- 2-3 mm wider than the bar
— depth 5-15 mm, depends on the thickness of the casing board.
Groove for the wind lock in the bottom board — 2-3 mm wider than the wind bar
— depth 5-15 mm. On a thin window sill, the wind lock is not cut out.
Groove in the end of the house wall The depth is 10 mm deeper than the tenon.
The width is 5 mm wider than the spike.
Spike at the end of the house wall The width is 5 mm less than the groove in the pigtail.

The height is 5 mm less than the depth of the groove.

Installation of classic P-casing

The technology for installing a pigtail in a timber house is as follows:

  • We mark and cut out openings
  • We mark a groove at the ends of the cut openings. Let's choose it. Or we form a spike if you chose a P casing.
  • We impregnate the openings and the adjacent part of the casing with an antiseptic, for example Veres Base
  • We insulate the opening with jute tape
  • We install the bottom part, then the sides and finish by installing the top
  • Checking the geometry
  • We fill the free space above the tops tightly with jute

It seems simple, but as usual, the devil is in the details. I’ll try to show the process of installing casing in a house made of 150x150 mm timber. If it is unclear, ask in the comments.

When marking openings, remember Golden Rule"Seven times measure cut once".

Slowly and carefully form a tenon on the side walls of the opening.

Use a building level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal, the sides must be vertical.

When marking openings, proceed from the planned window sizes. Add to these dimensions the thickness of the casing (taking into account the selected quarter) and the gaps for the jute. The sufficient width of the groove for a wall thickness of 150 mm will be 55 mm. I wrote below on the page how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the opening.

The groove is always 5 mm larger than the tenon. It won’t dangle, you still need to insulate the opening with 1-2 layers of jute tape.









First, we insulate the lower part and install the window sill, then we insulate the remaining perimeter and install the sides. We close the casing by installing the top.

We coat the locks with wood sealant. No self-tapping screws!

On final stage we tuck the protruding jute into the seams. We also tightly plug the space above the top with it.

Let's check the geometry again. Profit!

The result of the work.

Installation video - very detailed

In the video, the house is not entirely made of timber. It is a fire monitor, but also with smooth walls. All stages of casing installation were well filmed. Bonus - visual installation plastic windows and doors.

Video timing:

  • marking openings in the wall 0:20 - 1:07
  • sawing 1:10 – 2:20
  • marking the tenon at the end of the opening - 3:30 - 4:05
  • sawing out a tenon - 4:10 - 6:11
  • impregnation of the opening with an antiseptic - 6:13 - 6:55
  • impregnation of the casing with an antiseptic - 6:56 - 7:06
  • installation of casing with insulation of the opening with jute - from 7:08
  • how the last part of the casing is mounted - the top - 7:54 - 8:05 and 8:20 - 8:30
  • installation of doors and windows - from 8:35
  • caulking seams with jute - from 11:06

Installation of T-casing in a timber house

The technology differs only in that a groove is selected at the end of the openings. And the spike is formed on the side of the casing adjacent to the wall.

It’s not difficult to make a groove in a beam or, simply put, a groove. In the drawing I showed the top view of the groove. After marking, you make two vertical cuts, then two more 45-degree cuts. Remove the cut triangles and clean the middle with the tip of the chain. Or a chisel if you are not confident in your abilities.

How and how to cut a groove in a beam - top view of the opening.

To make straight cuts with a chain saw you need experience, a good eye and strong hands. You can also cut the groove with a hand-held circular saw, and where it won’t reach, finish it with a chisel.

Both types of pigtails are equally reliable. P-casing is a classic, time-tested option. T-casing appeared relatively recently; it is used for installation in houses with grooves cut during the construction of walls.

Tip: The cost of installing a frame for 1 opening in a timber house is different companies now in the range of 3500 - 5000 rubles. At the same time, you can order the production of casing without a proprietary installation.

Thus, you will receive ready-made casing profiles of the shape and size you need. To slowly install them in free time, saving tens of thousands of rubles.

An additional bonus when ordering a ready-made joint is the choice of options, the independent implementation of which is very expensive. For example, you can order casing to widen the openings into the house - this visually enlarges the openings and provides more light. Or order a clean window sill.

How to connect the parts of a pigtail - lock options

The locks connecting the parts of the casing vary in complexity of execution. The correct lock prevents the parts of the box from moving relative to each other. Both during the installation of a window or door, and during the period of shrinkage of the house. It also prevents connections from blowing out.

Options:

  • quarter connection. The simplest to implement, often used for self-installation. Requires additional fixation with corners.
  • quarter joint with reverse corners. A more rigid option also requires additional fixation. Blown through
  • connection to dovetail or in a box tenon
  • designer locks from companies that manufacture and install casing.

A quarter is the simplest and most unreliable lock.

On the left is a box plier, on the right is a casing with a designer lock.

The upper and lower locks in the casing are usually different in shape.



Factory cut top lock.

How to calculate the size of openings if there are window/door sizes

Let's take as an example a 1.4 by 1.2 meter window in a house made of 150x150 profiled timber. We will calculate the width and height of the opening for a P-casing with a thickness of 90 mm. The wooden window sill is the lower part of the frame.

Calculation using the example of a window 1400 x 1200 mm.

Initial data:

  • window width 1400 mm, window height 1200 mm
  • thickness of side panels - 90 mm, top and window sill - 60 mm
  • depth of the selected quarter for the frame - 25 mm
  • drank above the tip - 70 mm

Formula:

Opening width = window width + two casing thicknesses - two quarter depths + 5 mm for the gap between the casing and the wall on each side and 10 mm for the gap between the casing and the frame, also on each side.

1400+90+90+30–50 = 1560 mm

The height of the opening = the height of the window + the thickness of the window sill + the thickness of the top + 25 mm for gaps - two quarter depths + the gap above the top.

1200+90+90+25–40+70 = 1435 mm

The principle, I think, is clear. If anything, ask in the comments.

Conclusions on self-installation

  1. Many people install the casing with their own hands. So you can too.
  2. Always keep in mind that you need warm openings. The window frame is not an end in itself, but an intermediate stage when installing windows and doors in wooden house.
  3. Remember that a house built from timber natural humidity, shrinks by 10-15 cm per year. Leave enough free space above the top.
  4. The lifespan of the windows and doors of your home depends on the quality of the frame.
  5. If possible, avoid rough casing in the embedded block.

FAQ

  • When to install the casing, do you have to wait for the house to shrink?

You can close the warm perimeter, that is, install windows and doors in the casing, immediately after building the walls and roof of the timber house. Casing blocks do not interfere with shrinkage and will keep your frames safe.

  • Is it possible to install plastic windows without casing?

In a frame or stone house you can. In a log house - it’s impossible.

  • Glued or solid wood - which is better?

Nowadays, most companies work with laminated wood (those who offer finishing casing). Because the solid pine and fir trees on the market are of low quality. Or at an inappropriate price.

  • Is a window frame needed in timber houses built 5-10 years ago?

Needed. Wood - natural material. Its humidity depends on weather conditions. And the timber in the walls will still “play”.

  • In a timber house we want to install a casing in the embedded timber. It's much cheaper and faster. Why is that bad?

It's not bad. But this may be more expensive than proper casing. The rough box will require finishing - installation and adjustment of accessories. Check its quality too

  • If you missed any points about the frame of the log house, ask in the comments.

Ask a casing question to an expert!

Measurers and managers of Shuvoe.ru LLC, the oldest casing production and installation company in the Moscow region, answer your questions. Since 1995, Shuvoe.ru has been professionally glazing wooden houses.

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Installation of a window in a timber house: technology for self-execution, plus a photo report of the work done

Greetings. In previous articles, I described in detail the technology for installing plastic and wooden windows into the opening of walls built of brick, concrete, foam concrete blocks and similar materials. But installation of glazing in wooden buildings is carried out according to completely different rules, so installing windows in a log house with your own hands deserves a separate review.

Features of installing glazing in houses made of wooden beams

Installing windows in a wooden house is complicated by the fact that wood, unlike concrete, stone and brickwork, this is an unstable material that changes its geometry throughout its entire service life.

Someone will say that this is why a wooden house is built for shrinkage, after which the lumber shows an unchanged configuration. But, in fact, walls built from rectangular or rounded timber sag slightly all the time.

These processes occur less intensively in buildings erected using laminated veneer lumber. But even this couple of millimeters, by which the wall will sag annually, is enough for the double-glazed window to deform and crack.

How to compensate for shrinkage processes in wooden buildings and prevent damage to plastic windows?

In fact, a solution to the problem was invented several centuries ago, when glazing began to be installed in the openings of huts. The solution is simple - the window is not installed directly in the opening, but in a box that is fixed in the opening using a floating method, that is, without direct attachment to the wall. As a result, the deformation of the walls is not transferred to the frame and the window is not subject to mechanical stress.

How windows are installed in timber houses

So, you decided to insert a window yourself wooden wall. Let's find out how to do it right.

In the following table you can familiarize yourself with the work that needs to be done in order for the window to securely take its place in the wall of a timber house.

Let's take a closer look at how the work listed in the table is performed.

Manufacturing of casing (plugs)

Among the current varieties of pigtail, I would like to note the following options:

  • Casing in an embedded block (U-shaped) involves making a groove around the perimeter of the opening into which the casing element is inserted directly;

  • Casing in a deck (T-shaped) involves making a spike along the side ends of the opening, onto which the casing elements are placed directly.

Currently, the U-shaped type of socket is most widely used, namely such modifications as embedded block, tenon-monolith and finishing casing.

The choice of materials for the manufacture of the casing is selected depending on the construction project:

  • If the walls are built from square or rounded timber without the need for subsequent finishing, you should use finishing material, for example, the same laminated timber;
  • If the wall is assembled from lumber for subsequent cladding with one or another finishing materials, can be used to make a pigtail rough materials, the appearance of which will be unimportant.

To make the opening and install the casing, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • Chain Saw;

Preferably use electric saw, since you will have to work indoors. But if you don’t have a power tool, a chainsaw will do, but you’ll have to provide good ventilation inside the log house.

  • Miter saw;
  • Water or laser level;
  • Plumb;
  • Stapler with staples for installing jute tape;
  • Beam 150×100 mm for making sidewalls;
  • Board 100×50 mm for making the top lintel;
  • Bar 50×50 mm
  • Antiseptic solution for processing lumber;
  • Jute tape for the width of the wall;
  • Mineral wool for filling technological gaps;
  • Window acrylic sealant.

The instructions for making a casing (plug) are as follows:

  • In accordance with the ordered windows, we carry out markings;

When marking, make the opening width 150 mm larger than the window width. The height of the opening is marked with a margin of 50 mm for shrinkage plus the width of the board that will be used for the upper lintel. To make markings, it is best to use a laser level, however, if such a tool is not available, you can use a plumb line in combination with a spirit level.

  • According to the markings made, an opening is cut out;

I do not recommend throwing away the timber removed from the opening. It is better to carefully collect it and leave it for later for making some crafts; in extreme cases, if it is not useful, you can chop the bars onto dry wood chips and use them for kindling.

  • We measure the height of the opening and, in accordance with the measurement, saw off two pieces of timber;
  • We apply the sawn pieces of timber to the opening and level it;
  • We mark the location of the leveled beam on one and the other side of the opening;
  • According to the markings made, we make a groove in the sides of the opening for the width of the beam;

In order for the pigtail to last as long as possible, the groove must be treated with an antiseptic solution. If the price of special antiseptics seems high, the cut wood can be impregnated with waste, which has good penetrating ability.

  • We drive a beam into the groove made on one side and the other of the opening, so that a shrinkage gap of 50 mm remains in the upper part;

  • We clean the lower part of the window opening;
  • We saw off two boards along the height of the opening;

  • From the end of each board, as shown in the photo above, we select a half-wood groove for installing the upper lintel;
  • We fasten jute tape on the sides of the opening with a stapler;
  • We install pre-prepared boards on top of the jute tape, so that the recesses made look inside the opening;

  • We position the boards according to the level and fasten them with self-tapping screws so that they fit into the timber previously hammered into the groove;

To ensure that the screws do not fit into the wood in the groove, it is enough to correctly calculate their length. Our groove depth is 50 mm and the board thickness is 50 mm, which in total is 100 mm. As a result, to be sure that the post will be held firmly and the beam will be floating, self-tapping screws with a length of 80 mm are sufficient.

  • After the sidewalls are installed, we additionally measure the length of the upper jumper so that it fits into the recesses made in the upper part of the sidewalls.

  • We cut the board according to the measurements taken and insert it into the upper part of the casing;

  • We fix the installed board with self-tapping screws so that they fit into the casing, but not into the opening;
  • We fill the gap between the upper lintel and the upper part of the opening with mineral wool or a similar sealant.

At this point, the manufacture of the casing can be considered completed and you can begin installing the window.

Installation of a plastic window in a pre-prepared casing

At this stage installation work we will need the following tools and materials:

  • Electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
  • Level and roulette;
  • 5 mm hexagon and slotted screwdriver for disassembling the window;
  • Metal scissors for trimming castings;
  • Plastic or wooden wedges inserts for leveling the frame;
  • Polyurethane foam.

The installation instructions are as follows:

  • We measure the newly arrived window along the perimeter and compare the resulting size with the dimensions of the internal perimeter of the frame;

According to the results of measurements in a wooden house, the gap between the frame and the frame should be at least 10 mm and no more than 20 mm on each side.

  • Remove the glazing from the frame;

In order to remove the doors, pull the pin out of the hinges. In order to dismantle double-glazed windows, you need to knock out the glazing bead around the perimeter of the glass. Take a close look at the glazing bead. For ease of dismantling, the manufacturer leaves a small gap between the frame and the bead into which the tip of a knife can be inserted.

  • We carefully take the removed sashes and double-glazed windows to a place where they will not interfere and place them close to the wall so that nothing falls;
  • We remove the protective tape since there will be nothing particularly dirty to the profile;

  • We close with plugs drainage holes located at the bottom of the frame;
  • We measure 200 mm from the upper corner of the frame and drill the first through hole with a 6 mm drill;

  • We measure from bottom corner frames are the same 200 mm and drill a similar hole;
  • Between two drilled holes we mark the location of the intermediate hole, with the condition that the holes are spaced apart from each other by no more than 600 mm;
  • We mark and drill holes around the entire perimeter of the frame;

  • After the holes are drilled, we glue the PSUL sealing tape along the end of the frame;

  • By placing plastic inserts under each impost, we align the frame in the opening;

Inserts of various thicknesses are available for sale, starting from 2 and ending with 10 mm. But, if it is difficult to find special liners, you can use wood chips that you can chop from the timber remaining after cutting the opening.

  • Along the perimeter of the frame exposed in the opening, we use a drill to go through all through holes and drill holes in the wood;

  • We fasten the profile to the casing with metal dowels 92 mm long (this length is enough to go through the profile and enter the casing, but not to enter the perimeter of the opening);

  • WITH outside We apply a casting to the frame and make markings on it so that it can be trimmed;

  • We cut the ebb with metal scissors, trying to ensure that the bend of the cutting edge is directed downwards;
  • At the bottom of the window there is a special groove into which the ebb is inserted;

  • We fasten the ebb inserted into the groove with self-tapping screws to the profile;

  • Raise the edge of the fixed shimmer and apply it into the gap polyurethane foam;
  • The shutters are hung on the window and previously dismantled double-glazed windows are installed;

  • On finishing stage blow foam into the technological gap between the casing and the frame;
  • After the foam has dried, cut off the sagging with a sharp;
  • At subsequent stages, you can install platbands or perform another type finishing at your own discretion.

Conclusion

Now you have general idea about how to insert a modern double-glazed window into timber walls.

Of course, during installation work certain questions may arise. Please indicate points that require clarification in the comments to this article, and I will try to immediately give a comprehensive answer. If there personal experience installing windows using a different method, tell us about it, I think everyone will be interested.

By the way, don’t forget to watch the video in this article, maybe it will be useful for you.

October 9, 2016

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The importance of casing in a wooden house is beyond doubt. But the cost of its installation can be equal to the price of a double-glazed window. So for a dozen window openings, a do-it-yourself frame in a log house is the most economical option.

Types of pigtails and features of their design

The framing of window openings is done after the initial shrinkage of the house. So, a timber house must stand for at least a year. During this time, you can treat the walls with antiseptics and lay a subfloor. But this is a purely individual decision, because when making casings, a lot of waste is produced - sawdust, splashes of oil from a chainsaw chain, which can ruin already treated walls.


The most reliable are monolithic ones - T-shaped and U-shaped frames. They are able to withstand the deformation of walls made of timber, unlike conventional swarms.

This allows you to install windows flush with external wall, increasing the window sill and not worrying about slopes.

You should not buy a ready-made casing, because then you will have to adjust the openings to fit it, which is much more difficult to do. If it is not possible to do everything yourself, it is better to invite specialists who will make the joint on the spot.

Features of casing for an adjacent window opening with a balcony door

Due to the strong difference in size, the shrinkage of the openings will occur differently. Therefore, in no case should you make the casing common to the window and located nearby balcony door. They can be separated by a T-shaped window side.

After the final shrinkage of the house, the gaps will even out. But even if not, it is better than filling the gap under the window with foam, which can rise along with the door.

Do-it-yourself installation of a pigtail in a timber house

Depending on the type of casing chosen, the method of its installation also differs. General rules just a few:

  1. Between the top and the edge of the window opening, a 3-5 cm deformation gap is left, which is filled mineral insulation or jute fabric, but in no case with polyurethane foam. The latter, after hardening, will transfer pressure to window box, thereby neutralizing the entire effect of the gap.
  2. All fresh cuts must be treated with a special antiseptic.

Locks for the pigtail are made in such a way as to minimize the penetration of cold air. Very detailed manufacturing process key elements shown in video:

T-shaped pigtail

A fairly simple and reliable version of the pigtail is the T-shaped one. Suitable even for novice amateur carpenters. Installed in several stages:


During installation, you should always check each part for horizontal and vertical level. Otherwise after installation window profiles deviations can be detected, which in the future can lead to incorrect operation of the fittings.

U-shaped casing with reverse quarter

A much more complex, but also the most reliable option is casing “into the deck”. Suitable for window and doorways houses made of timber and logs, while the “thorn-monolith” frame is used only in timber buildings. For a novice carpenter, such a pigtail will be a real test:


Having no experience similar works, it is better to first practice on a small object - a bathhouse or summer kitchen. And then your wooden house will turn out to be really warm and reliable!

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A wooden house made of timber or logs inevitably shrinks in the first years of operation. The wood dries out, the height of the walls decreases - at the same time, a huge load is placed on the window frames. To prevent PVC window structures from being damaged due to this natural process, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a log house must be done in strict compliance with the instructions.

Windows are installed 1–2 years after completion of construction, if the material used is logs or ordinary timber. It is during this period that the most active shrinkage occurs. If glued laminated timber is used, installation can begin immediately, since this material has little moisture and practically does not shrink. But in any case, installing a window will have a number of features, and the main one is installation not directly into the opening, but into a special casing. So, how to install it correctly in a log or timber house?

Preparing the window opening

Sawing an opening

The main thing when forming an opening is to maintain the evenness of all its edges. To do this, you need to use not only a plumb line, but also a water level.

It starts by measuring the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the opening. It can be anything, but the optimal parameter is 80–90 cm, so the window sill will not interfere with either the radiator or desk or other furniture.

The size of the windows in a timber house is selected as follows:

  • height - 13 cm more than the plastic structure;
  • width - 12–14 cm more;
  • additionally 3 cm is taken into account in both planes for polyurethane foam.

The opening is cut with a chain saw so that half of the log is captured from below and from above. The saw cuts must be treated with protective impregnations.

The main stage of installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house is fixing the frame in the window opening.

Casing (casing)

The most critical stage of work is installation. It is made from timber, which is not simply nailed to the walls, but is attached using a tongue-and-groove system. This box is needed in order to make the windows in a house made of timber independent from the walls and to protect the structures from shrinkage of a private house - using fasteners instead of grooves would not allow this task to be completed.

The second protective barrier is the expansion gap above the box. Its height is calculated based on the maximum shrinkage, which is usually 15 mm for each meter of wall height. windows in log house usually done using embedded or monolithic timber:

  1. On the side edges of the opening using chain saw or cutters make grooves 50 mm wide and deep.
  2. Jute is placed inside the grooves.
  3. The bottom board is laid, which will not only be an element of the casing, but also a window sill. Insulation is laid between it and the wall beam.
  4. A tenon - a block 50 mm thick - is inserted into the groove. You cannot fix it with fasteners - the wall will slide along it like on a rail.
  5. A well-dried board 50 mm thick and a width equal to the thickness of the wall beam is screwed to the beam with self-tapping screws.
  6. The top board is inserted into the grooves, laying on the vertical elements and becoming a spacer for them. The gap at the top is filled with a sealant (moss, tow).
  7. The elements of the box are fastened together with self-tapping screws.
  8. The cracks are filled with sealant.

The seal in the upper gap must be protected from moisture and steam using a special film, since plastic windows can be installed in a log house for a long time only by ensuring their complete protection.

Polyurethane foam cannot be used as a sealant, since during polymerization it turns into a rigid material that will transfer the entire shrinkage load to the frame.

There is another way to install the casing of plastic windows in a log house - “in the deck”. Instead of boards and beams, carriages with grooves are used, and the tenon is cut out on the logs themselves. In this case, no fasteners will be required at all. It is important not to forget about sealing the joint with jute.

Window installation

Actually, a do-it-yourself log house consists of several stages:

  • installation of a metal-plastic frame inside the prepared casing;
  • insertion of double-glazed windows;
  • installation of fittings and additional elements.

The window can be aligned with the front surface of the wall or slightly deeper into the opening. The size of windows in a wooden house made of timber should be 15 mm smaller than the opening with casing on each side, so that there is room for foaming.

Installation is carried out as follows:

  1. Double-glazed windows and sashes are disconnected from the frame.
  2. The frame is inserted into the window opening in a log house and temporarily secured in several places using wedges.
  3. Using a level, the frame is leveled and fixed with self-tapping screws. They should be long enough to attach the frame to the casing without going right through it.
  4. Gaps of 15 mm on each side, left in advance, are filled with polyurethane foam for thermal insulation and protection from water. While the casing could not be rigidly attached to the wall, the window itself can be fixed - shrinkage will not affect it if initial stages No mistakes were made when installing windows in a log house.

After the frame is installed, you can install the ebb and slopes. Internal and external trims should be attached to the frame boards, but not to the wall beams. Double-glazed windows are inserted into the frame and aligned with glazing beads. After this, the sashes are hung on the hinges, and the operation of the fittings is checked. The installation of windows in the log house is completed.

Thus, in a wooden house it is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. If you follow the procedure for installing the casing, the rules for fixing the structure and observe all the necessary shrinkage gaps, it will turn out to be reliable and durable. To prevent the cracks from affecting thermal insulation properties structures, modern high-quality roll insulation should be used.

Due to their performance characteristics, double-glazed windows made of PVC material have gained particular popularity among the population. They are installed in buildings and structures made of concrete, brick, and wood. Installing plastic windows in a wooden house requires following certain rules.

Important installation details

When starting the installation, you need to prepare the equipment you will need: a building level and a plumb line, and also know how to insert a plastic window. It is necessary to install a PVC window strictly observing the placement in a level plane. This will ensure correct work all elements, the doors will not open or close spontaneously.

The technology for installing a PVC window involves its correct placement in a level plane

When purchasing plastic structures, you need to buy additional special fasteners for installation. The frame is fixed in the frame of a wooden structure using self-tapping screws and special fasteners. Observing technological process and correctly installing plastic windows in a wooden house, you are guaranteed to receive window blocks that will last long time.


The window frame is secured using anchor plates

If you dismantle the sashes, the structure will become much lighter and it will be easier to move it, but mounting metal-plastic windows It is still not recommended to go alone in a wooden house. To remove the doors, you need to remove the pins from the hinges.

How to install PVC double-glazed windows

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a wooden house is carried out in stages:

  • preparatory activities before installation;
  • installation of PVC windows;
  • control and verification of location in space;
  • blowing with foam.

To understand how to install plastic windows both in a wooden house and in a timber or log house, let’s look at each stage in more detail.

Carrying out preparatory work

First of all, you need to remove exact dimensions, measuring the opening, and order a window structure from a trusted manufacturer. To do this, most often they invite a representative of a company that produces plastic frames. You can take measurements yourself. After this, they determine the color of the structure and the completeness of the fittings necessary for the functioning of the window.

When the manufacturer delivers the product to the site, the following steps must be completed:

  • if the decision is made to replace installed windows in the old opening, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the structure;
  • after which they clean dust, dirt and remove debris that got into the opening from dismantling;
  • It is worth aligning the opening if its geometry is broken.

Having completed the preparation, they insert a plastic window into a wooden house with their own hands.

Fastening the window structure into the prepared opening

We install the window sill first; it will be the base for the double-glazed windows, so it needs to be placed strictly level (horizontally). For fastening strength, notches are made on the sides of the box approximately 8 mm deep. Adjustment is carried out using plastic plates or boards. Fastening occurs with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the box. When screwing in, you should place washers under the screw head; this will prevent damage to the surface.


The window sill is installed strictly horizontally

The next step the handle will be installed correctly. The film that protects the structures should not be removed; it protects them from damage when the windows are installed. When attaching, the handle must be placed horizontally. When all the fittings have been assembled, the installation of metal-plastic windows begins.

First you need to level the PVC frame. A frame is placed on two-centimeter bars and leveled horizontally, using a water level. After this, they move on to vertical alignment.

Having obtained ideal parameters at the water level, fix the frame with self-tapping screws to the frame, using mounting brackets, which were specially bought in the store. It is important not to get the self-tapping screw into the ridge of the log where the socket is installed.

Secure the frame with self-tapping screws

After attaching the window element, we get 2-centimeter gaps around it for the mounting foam.

Before using polyurethane foam, you need to hang the shutters so that after foaming the frame profile does not bend and damage the window. It is important to remember that foam can only be used when the sash is closed..

Control and foaming of the structure

After hanging the sashes, you need to check how the double-glazed window opens and closes. If a window that is half open does not close or move further, then the frame is considered to be installed correctly and the alignment is correct. After closing the sash, foam it with installation foam and leave it for complete fixation for a day.

Why is casing made for plastic windows in a timber house?

To obtain quality windows PVC in a wooden house, you must strictly observe the installation features, that is, install it to a special frame (base). The need for such a design is due to the characteristics of wooden buildings. Unlike a building made of stone (concrete or brick), a wooden panel house unstable throughout long period.


The casing prevents frame deformation when the house shrinks

The building will be completed within the first five years after its construction. In this case, the walls dry out up to 6 cm. This important nuance must be taken into account when installing a plastic window in frame house. It is clear that you cannot simply insert a plastic window into a wooden house; you need to create a structure for the opening, which is called a casing, or they also say a window frame. Its direct purpose is to prevent the frame from being affected by wall shrinkage, so the socket:

  • strengthens the opening;
  • bears the load;
  • prevents the effects of shrinkage.

The pigtail looks like a box made from thick boards. The structure is attached to the side rack on a groove, no fasteners are used. There remains a shrinkage compensation gap above the pigtail for wooden house. There are several options for installing it:

  • A groove is cut in the log into which the block is placed. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the last element of the embedded beam;
  • a groove is cut out in the racks on the sides of the structure, a tenon is cut out from the end of the log in the opening;
  • A groove is made at the end of the logs, and a tenon is placed on the side posts of the box.

Casing options

To get a high-quality design, you need to follow the technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. To begin with, cover the ridges of the logs with insulation and secure it with staples or small nails. This stage is necessary to insulate the house and eliminate creaks. Then the lower crossbar of the casing is mounted, and carriages (side posts of the frame) are stuffed onto the ridges, and the upper jumper is placed in the upper groove of the posts. After collecting the box, carefully connect it with self-tapping screws, it is important that they do not get into the logs.

The gaps that are visible in the opening after installing the casing must be filled with tow or insulation. Then the standard installation of plastic windows in a frame house or log house takes place.


The cracks are sealed with insulation or tow.

The compensation gap is filled with flat boards pre-wrapped with tow. As the walls shrink, they are gradually knocked out. To do this, remove the top casing and, having knocked out the board, put it back.

The final stage when glazing a wooden structure

Finishing after PVC installations Windows in a log house are made in the same way as wooden ones, that is, after installing the frame structure and insulation, wooden trim is installed. When ordering PVC windows in a wooden structure, you should take a closer look at the option with a wood texture, this will allow them to look harmonious against the background of the felled structure.

Many manufacturers of PVC structures offer not only classic white version frame colors You can order any shade that the customer desires. Colored plastic frames will cost a little more, but will become more suitable option for a home made of natural materials.

When ordering, it is important to take the correct measurements of the opening and not make a mistake in the width of the window sill. Self-installation PVC windows in a wooden house are not such a complicated process if you know all the nuances. You can do it yourself, without resorting to the help of expensive installers.

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