Elimination of common defects when repairing door frames. Elimination of malfunctions and defects in the installation of an interior door (adjusting the door block) The door does not fit into the frame

Correct most defects in the door frame interior door not difficult. The biggest difficulty that awaits the master is dismantling the canvas and correcting the shape of the box. Other types of repair work are more likely to be cosmetic in nature, and do not require special skills.

Types of problems and damage

All types of internal door problems are divided into two categories: damaged appearance of the product and improper functioning.

To correct defects decorative cladding the canvas will need to be reconstructed. Such work is carried out in the same way as restoration of cabinet wooden furniture.

Malfunctions of the door are expressed as follows:

• The sash closes unsatisfactorily and loosely, resulting in abrasions on the floor covering. It is necessary to repair the hinges and adjust the position of the blade;

Important! When the sash often comes into contact with the frame, it is necessary to adjust the position of the leaf relative to the frame.

• Uneven gap around the circumference of the vestibule (slits appear on one side, and on the other the panel rubs against the frame);
• Sagging of the sash. Its own weight causes such deformation. If long time do not correct the deformation, this will lead to distortion of the box;
• When the blade moves, a creaking noise is heard. In this situation, you simply need to lubricate the hinges. If the creaking does not go away, then it is worth checking the frame for distortion;
• The door doesn't open. If the humidity in the room is high, this will negatively affect the door frame. Moisture causes the frame to deform and misalignment occurs. A breakdown of the locking device can also lead to such a malfunction.

Sometimes a specific type of door deformation becomes a consequence of several factors, so you need to consider all the options for problems that arise with the doorway and be able to eliminate them yourself.

Causes of defects:

• Incorrect door installation;
• Poor quality or weak loops for heavy fabric;
• Wear of loops or deterioration of their fixation;
• Building shrinkage;
• Poor fixation of the frame in the doorway.

Important! If the problems are related to faulty hinges, repairing the door will not be difficult. It is much more difficult to correct errors made during installation or eliminate the effects of shrinkage. We have to re-install the box and canvas again.

How to fix a door frame

The most difficult failure is deformation door frame, it is not always possible to correct it yourself, since you have to completely redo the frame.

Important! If the damage is not repaired, the canvas will soon shift diagonally, begin to rub, and with prolonged and intense pressure, the stand may also become deformed. This risks repairing not only the door, but also the wall.

How to align and adjust a door frame after installation

To repair the inner door frame, you will need to remove the panel from the hinges. Next, measure and determine the location where the displacement occurred. To determine the sagging, you need to check the diagonal.

Removing the fabric from the hinges, photo

WITH door design remove the decorative elements and screw additional bolts into the canvas. This manipulation will help to fix it more firmly in correct position structure.

The old polyurethane foam will need to be removed and spacers wedged in.

By using special knife get rid of the old layer of foam

After this work, the structure can be foamed.

Foam the box again

Restoration of the internal door frame

Restoration work is carried out without removing the door. This is not required for puttying and masking scratches formed on the surface.

One of the simplest repair processes is adjusting the locking of the lock - the latch. Rubbing the “tongue” against the end plate on the box is a common defect. There are many reasons for this type of problem to occur. The most common:

• A slight violation of the shape of the canvas or opening;
• Minor sagging of the sash.

To eliminate such a problem, sometimes a few gentle blows with a hammer on the end of the plate window on the rubbing side are enough. A more decisive and time-consuming method is to remove the plate and increase the dimensions of the recess in the frame, seal the old mounting holes and reinstall the plate.

Incorrectly or poorly supplied frame, shrinkage of the building, which led to direct deformation of the shape of the doorway, require dismantling old design and its new installation.

Dismantling the door product, photo

Important! If the dismantling process is carried out as accurately as possible, then all elements of the box can be installed again.

The removed trims reveal the mounting seam, and the hinges and end strip on the box, on the contrary, “hide” the fastening points.

After release assembly seam Unscrew the fasteners and remove the box. If the frame is fixed with foam, then the dismantling process is greatly simplified.

Sometimes it happens that the mounting bolts cannot be unscrewed. In this case, they are cut off and the box is shifted slightly so that the new attachment points do not come into contact with the old ones.

The door frame is reinstalled, observing all requirements regarding levels in the vertical and horizontal planes and the size of the gaps between the door leaf and the frame.

Installation and fixation of the box

Important! Be sure to keep a gap between floor covering and canvas for supply and exhaust ventilation.

The final step is hanging the canvas and checking the functionality of the structure, securing end strip locking device and platbands.

Repairing a door frame when fasteners are loose

Installation of platbands, photo

If the wood screws that hold the frame become loose, you can simply tighten them. Sometimes this method does not bring results, because the screws do not hold well in loose holes.

In this case, it is advisable to replace the fasteners. You can also equip old holes with plugs and install self-tapping screws in them.

If the door frame was fastened with nails, it is worth strengthening the structure with additional screws.

If the door frame is fixed in brickwork, in this case, holes are drilled in the slopes, and dowels are used for fastening.

When the door does not close tightly and vibrates in the frame renovation work consist of rearranging the locking device. For this purpose, unscrew the fastening screws and carefully remove the mechanism. To move the locking device latch, you need to expand its socket. This is done using a chisel, the old mounting holes are sealed, and the device itself is installed in a new location.

If the sash swings open and closes with difficulty, the leaf rubs against the threshold, which means the fastening hinges have become loose. To correct the situation, tighten all the screws so that the hinges stop moving.

Adjusting hinges, photo

Important! If the subsidence continues over time, the screws will need to be replaced.

Door frame trims

if the platbands have worn out and become unpresentable appearance, in some places they move away from the jamb, this indicates the need to replace them.

New trims are purchased taking into account the immediate dimensions and type of connection.

The platbands are removed and the surface of the frame is sanded. When removing the platband, a gap may form between the wall and the frame. During repairs, this gap is foamed.

Algorithm for replacing the platband:

• Perform markings. The part is applied horizontally so that the upper edge deviates from the outer border of the vertical casing by approximately 5 mm, and the edge with inside from the edge of the frame - 5 mm. If necessary, the structure is leveled;
• Holding the part, place a mark 5 mm horizontally from the inner edge of the frame. Similar manipulations are carried out with the other casing;
• The workpieces are cut at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the applied markings. After which they are fixed on the box;
• The vertical casing is also made and attached;

Important! The corners of the new design are also fixed with self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door and its adjustment should be carried out as accurately as possible so as not to deform the panel or frame.

Experts recommend that if you have wooden interior doors, you should do preventive maintenance, at least once a year, and then the door product will last a long time. If there are doubts about your own adjustment and repair, then it is better to entrust all manipulations to specialists.

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Interior doors and frames for them are not made of titanium and are afraid not only of mechanical influences, but also of humidity, due to which they are deformed. Today we will tell you what to do if the interior door touches the frame, that is, the latter has become deformed.

Causes of deformation

The box can become deformed for a number of reasons, here are the most common ones:

1. — Exposure to moisture,
2. — Incorrect fastening of fittings,
3. — Incorrect fixation of the box in the opening.

To expose the door to moisture, you don’t need to water it; often ordinary dampness in the bathroom is enough, but if the neighbors flood it, then every third frame can “lead” even with an ideal installation. This happens due to the characteristics of wood, which changes shape not only due to temperature changes, but also due to changes in humidity.

Incorrect fastening of the fittings can weaken its fixation, and the door will begin to cling to the frame, damaging the outer edge of the door leaf. Also, the box can “move” due to savings or improper fixation of anchors during installation, and also due to a violation of the technology for using polyurethane foam.

Exposure to moisture

The reason for deformation of the box can be not only dampness or flood, but also the decoration of the wall near doorway after installation of the structure. Putty and plaster have water base, and the water evaporates into the tree and causes it to swell. Moreover, gypsum mixtures can expand after drying, which also leads to swelling of the tree.

If, after installing the door, you decided to putty the walls near the frame and it became deformed, then:

1. — Set the location of the deformation,
2. - Remove the casing,
3. — Unstitch the seam between the frame and the wall.

To determine the location of the deformation, take a strip of paper and run it along the gap between the closed door and the frame (photo 1). This is necessary so as not to unstitch the door over its entire height.

Now mark the place of deformation with a pencil, remove the casing and use a spatula or sharp knife remove the putty/plaster from the side of the wall (photo 2). Just close the door overnight with a paper gasket in the gap between the door and the frame and in 90% of cases the problem will be resolved.

Defective box fastening

If there is no exposure to moisture, but the frame of the box is “walking,” then the second most likely reason for this is incorrect fastening door structure in the opening. According to the technology, there should be two anchors on each side of the door, but if it is not possible to fix them (a thin partition on one side, for example), then the box is fixed on one side with a pistol (!) polyurethane foam. This foam does not expand and acts like glue while filling voids.

If you need to additionally press the door frame so that the door does not touch it, then the casing is removed, the height of the frame is embroidered, as if deformed from moisture, after which the sides are tightened or anchor bolts or placed on pistol foam and pressed out with spacers or a paper insert into the door slot.

If the hinges are not fastened correctly, then the door is removed from them, the holes for the screws are clogged with wooden plugs, the cutting depth of the outer layer for the fittings is checked, and the hinges are reinstalled. This type of defect is rare; much more often the door touches the frame due to moisture or poor fixation of the frame in the opening.

Swelling of doors in summer, when humidity increases significantly, is a natural process. And taking into account this, when installing in winter, when due to the operation of heating radiators, the air is much drier, a gap of about 4 mm is left between the door and the frame around the entire perimeter.
In your case, the gap turned out to be too small; there are several options for fixing it, depending on what you have with the door or frame and what experience you have in working with wood.

1. We need to see if the box has been opened? This happens quite often. To do this, you need to measure its width by different heights and especially in the place where grazing occurs.

If the box has moved, then it is somewhat simpler.
Determined using an even metal corner or the level where the bulge is located. This can be seen on the door, but you may not be able to see from which side this is happening, from the side of the hinges or the handle.
Best result measurements will, of course, be given by a metal level, but it is unlikely that measuring device If you have one lying around the house, instead of it, pick up some kind of flat block or strip.
The bulging area will be felt immediately. There will be a bump where your block or level will roll.

Carefully remove the trim from the side of the box where the bulging occurred, from the outside and inside.
Then we take a hacksaw, preferably with not too coarse teeth, and parallel to the box for the entire height, or only in the place where it bulges, we cut through the foam. On both sides of the doorway. It is better to make this cut directly along the box. Don't forget about the fastening dowels, you need to go around them, but also give a gap between the foam and the box. After this, tighten the fasteners door frame with a screwdriver, and so tighten for several days until the tree takes the desired bend and selects a new gap above the foam. In other words, we will gradually press the box against the opening. The result will begin to appear immediately.

2.1. Another case is if the frame is flat, but the door is swollen. Is there a question here? What kind of door do you have? If it is a simple wooden panel door covered with tinting and varnish, then the problem is solved somewhat easier.
The simplest option. Remove the lock and sand the end of the door with sandpaper on a block. Necessarily sandpaper attach it to a block or plank in order to sand off an even layer. Check the door periodically for signs of jamming. As soon as it stops touching, stop sanding, the door will no longer swell, and you don’t need the extra gap.
Now we are trying to install a lock. It may already be protruding somewhat, because we have removed some kind of layer. Check if the lock does not touch the box, then it can be placed freely; if it does touch, then you need to take a chisel and carefully deepen it seat. For handles, as a rule, the installation gaps are sufficient, but you can also correct these holes in the door.
Now we select a tinting composition and cover the treated end of the door with it, then we go over it with varnish.

2.2If your doors are expensive and such a tint or stain cannot be found, although you can choose one. Sand the door from the hinge side. To do this, we remove it, and then we also deepen the places for the hinges, tint and varnish.
In any case, this option gives a gap and, most importantly, the results of working with the door are practically invisible. Even if you make any mistakes, they will not damage the door, because this side of the door sits on hinges and is almost invisible.

Good luck and let me know how it goes for you.

Date of publication: 01/04/2014

After you have installed the door in the opening, you need to adjust it. And of course, this must be done before filling the gap between the frame and the doorway with foam. First of all, you need to check the level of the location of the box (whether it is skewed somewhere). To do this, close the door and check the gaps between the door leaf and the frame around the entire perimeter, all the joints of the door and the frame - everything should be even. If it was not possible to initially identify any defects, then we proceed to a more thorough inspection.
For correct adjustment just installed interior door We check it for the following faults and installation defects:

1. The door won't close- if the door cannot be closed, or significant force is applied, then there may be three problems:
   • Warping of the frame when closing the door - occurs when you start to close the door, the frame warps. To correct it, you need to check whether all the box beams are fastened together correctly (the angle between the two connected beams must be strictly 90 degrees). If this is not the case, you will have to remove the box, find out and eliminate the unevenness of the gash and carefully secure the beams with two screws on each side four corners boxes (if the door has no threshold, then there will be two corners). And if the connection is not strong enough, you need to add another self-tapping screw in the middle, on the other side of the corner.
   • The groove for the hinges was selected incorrectly (not flush with the surface or one edge is more recessed than the other) on either the door or the frame, or both together. Because of this, the door sits askew in the frame. First, check and properly tighten the missing/under-tightened screws. If this does not help, remove the hinges and deepen the necessary grooves or, conversely, place something under the hinges. It is necessary to ensure that all the loops ("male", "male") are cut in evenly.
   • When installing the hinges, you recessed the hinge halves too deeply away from the edge of the frame beam or door (you need to fasten it so that the mark shown in the figure is flush with the edge of the door/frame). And if the box has a sealing tape, then the depth of the hinges should be even less. Fix this by moving the hinges where they need to be and securing them properly.
2. The gap between the canvas and the box is not uniform, happens due to:
   • The box bars are cut/trimmed incorrectly. Internal corners boxes must be strictly 90 degrees. Even 2 extra millimeters in one of the bars when connected can give a different angle and, as a result, a significant difference in the gap. The same applies to uneven joints of bars
   • The door is uneven in size. Yes, doors quite often come from the factory with a difference in size at the edges, that is, an uneven rectangle. Eliminated either by adjusting the frame to the size of the door, or, if possible, by fine-tuning door leaf to even sizes (with a plane, file, sandpaper).
   • Incorrect installation of the box. When securing the box in the opening, excessive force was applied to one of the fasteners. As a rule, this applies to loop beams. For example, if you slightly tighten the lower fastener of the hinge beam, then the door in the frame will warp, which will cause an uneven gap. Eliminated by setting a long level, which can be used to identify how general position timber, as well as the presence of any concave/convex parts of the timber.
3. A half-open door opens spontaneously or, conversely, closes- this is a problem with the verticality of the box. If the door opens on its own, the top of the frame is tilted; if it closes, the bottom of the box is tilted. It can be corrected by aligning the box strictly vertically in two planes (so that the box does not fall forward or backward and neither to the right nor to the left) and securing it in this position. To do this use building level or plumb line. Align the hinged beam of the frame; it is on its correct alignment and fastening (when fastening with fasteners, make sure that both hinges are in the same vertical plane and it does not turn out that one hinge is recessed or extended more) will determine whether your door will open/close spontaneously. A level in this work, of course, is preferable to a plumb line, and the longer, the better and easier it is to identify unevenness and distortions of the box (hinged and other beams). If you have a short level, you can attach it to a rule or a long, flat rod. Most often, it is not the entire frame that needs to be straightened, but only the loop beam.

We can say with confidence that the adjustment process door block due to improper installation, it is a very tedious and time-consuming task, so when assembling/installing the box, inserting hinges, do not rush and do the work carefully and carefully,

Hello, we installed the interior doors ourselves. Now one of the doors touches the frame when closing and is difficult to close, can this be fixed?

Obviously you did not screw the box to the opening, but used foam. The fact is that foam during changes atmospheric pressure it swells, (before the rain) the frame becomes deformed and the door stops closing. Drill holes through the box into the wall and install long screws.

Of course, everything can be fixed. This happened either because the door frame was swollen ( more precisely the material swollen wood), or you foamed too much. In the second case, you need to remove the mounting foam, install the door normally and foam again. While the foam hardens, install spacers. If the material of the door and frame has swollen due to increased humidity, then it is more difficult. This is the quality of the products.

As they say, the miser pays twice. In your case, you should call professional door installers, and perhaps they will still be able to rectify the situation.

It looks like the door is simply "swollen". This happens in summer (the door was installed in winter).
If so, then the most the best option door fitting - electric milling machine. From the hinge side and from the bottom of the door.

To work you will need a chisel, a hammer and a plane. It is necessary to determine the place where the door touches the frame. As a rule, a slight protrusion of half a millimeter interferes, or it can be only a millimeter thick. It is necessary to trim the door from the end in this place. It will be both unnoticeable and low-cost. First, try walking with a plane, and then, if the plane is inconvenient, then use a chisel and a hammer.

And finally, the place where the door is stitched, so to speak, can be painted in the color of the end of the door, which will make this place less noticeable.

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