Drainage of rainwater from the house. Surface and groundwater drainage Groundwater drainage system

Storm drainage system (storm drainage) is a system that serves to protect the foundations of houses and the territories that surround them from rain and melt water. The main task of the mechanism is to collect rain and melt water in the canal lines. One of the main elements is rainwater inlets that collect water from drainpipes. In general, the system is able to stop the flooding of foundations, which can lead to destruction. Storm drain is a mandatory equipment in engineering country house or garden. Installing a high-quality drain will help you preserve your lawn, flower garden, and most importantly, protect your house from destruction.

To do this, we must answer the question, where does the sedimentary liquid go? Some of the water is absorbed by the ground, but due to the development of civilization, most of the land has turned into asphalt. Now she has nowhere to go. Because of this, rain can destroy our yards and contribute to dampness in our homes. Today, the installation of storm sewers is combating this problem. In most cases they work by gravity.

When choosing technologies, pay attention to the following indicators:

• Relief of the earth;
• Nature of the development
• The amount of precipitation in a given area.

Advantages of storm drainage

50-100 cubic meters - this is exactly how much water flows annually from under a country house. The storm system collects all the water and distributes it evenly among the areas. If sedimentary water is left uncontrolled, it will cause great harm to the owner of the site. The consequence of this may be destruction of the foundation and rotting of vegetation on the site.

Stormwater has the following advantages:

1. Installation work is easy and inexpensive;
2. It is much easier to make slopes for such a system;
3. 90% are located on the surface, which helps to avoid pipe clogging and facilitates access to repair work;
4. The soil layer is almost not disturbed;
5. Trays perform two functions: they collect and drain water.

What does a storm drainage system consist of?

The drainage design consists of the following components:

• Gutters;
• Storm water inlets;
• Pipes;
• Supporting parts.

Now let's take a closer look at the functions and features of each.

Gutters collect water resources in places with huge mechanical loads, for example: parking lots and garages. They are used from different materials: plastic, concrete and polymer concrete. The package may include special metal nozzles and a decorated mesh that protect them from clogging with large debris.

Storm water inlets work with point collection of water from the surface and roofs of houses, if a connection is established with drainpipes. They are made of plastic and can withstand moving a car. The package may also include: a trash can, a special partition and a cast iron or galvanized grill.

The pipes that make up the gutters are designed to transport water to the collector and are used for outdoor work. Material – polypropylene. When designing systems, as a rule, two options for laying pipes are used:

1. Shallow planting. They operate mainly in the summer. In this case, thick-walled brown pipes are most often used.
2. Deep. Operate year-round. In this laying system, preference is given to two-layer corrugated pipes.

Important! When choosing a pipe diameter, it is necessary to calculate the expected amount of precipitation. Also, to control storm drains, it is necessary to organize inspections and install inspection wells to clean the wire tubes.

The design of drainage systems may include rain wells, drainage trays, sand traps and underground drains.

Attention to buyers! The storm drainage scheme is planned during landscape design and proportionally depends on the vertical structure of the site.

Why is it necessary to install inspection wells?

These structures are installed at turning points of drainage systems, as well as on too-long pipes every 25 m. Inspection wells allow us to carry out an inspection and monitor the cleanliness of the drainage system. Previously, they were made by hand from iron concrete rings or laid out with bricks. Today it is plastic.

Their advantages include the fact that they:

• Sealed;
• Not subject to corrosion;
• Reliable and durable;
• They are light in weight;
• Easy to install.

Storm sewer classification

Before buying, we need to familiarize ourselves with the classification of gutters. They are divided according to the following criteria: method of drainage and type of drainage.

It is important to know that the drainage and stormwater systems are installed in parallel. They shouldn't unite. Moreover, the storm water in their parallel is laid higher.

Types of systems according to the method of water drainage:

1. Closed. This is the most complex mechanism. For it to work, it is necessary to carry out detailed hydraulic calculation for suitable pipe diameter. Water is collected in special storm inlets or trays and then moved into a pipe system. Then it follows gravity, from which it enters the collector, from where it is transferred outside the site. For example, in bodies of water.

Advice! Installation of systems closed type with large pipes is produced on city streets or factories. But in some cases it is ideal for a site if it is a large area.

1. Open. This is the simplest option. IN in this case sediments are collected in trays installed in ditches that slope towards the collector. The trays are covered with bars.
2. Mixed drainage systems. This system provides for the installation of both types of components, which significantly reduces costs. With this choice, pipes with a diameter of 10-15 cm should be installed.

Types by type of drainage system:

• Point water collection. The principle of operation is the installation of storm water inlets, which are connected by pipes into one network. It needs to be installed in problem areas.
• Linear. This installation is used to collect sediment from areas big size, for example, asphalt areas, etc.

PS: You can get acquainted with each type of water drainage by looking at the photos posted on the Internet.

How to choose a suitable location for the collector?

1. Positive or favorable. The terrain is flat or with a slope of no more than 0.005. In this case, drainage areas can reach 150 hectares or less.
2. Average. The collector is located at the bottom of the slope. Area – 150 hectares or a little more.
3. Unfavorable. Sloping terrain and steep slopes. The area exceeds 150 hectares, and significantly.

Advice. To properly lay a drainage system, you need to choose the most shortcut to the descent point. Drainage and storm water should never be combined!

Stages of preparation for installing a stormwater system

Work should begin immediately after finishing the façade planning and landscaping of the area. You need:

1. Perform vertical soil dumping on the site and compact it. This is necessary in order to avoid equipment deformation.
2. Installation for drainage of rainfall from roofs outside the site. This helps protect the foundation from getting wet and collapsing.
3. Determine the method and place for drainage of sediment. The location must be determined on a case-by-case basis based on the locality. There are two options: drainage ditches and a sewer system.
4. Rainwater collection on tile surfaces. They are installed only if there is a slope from the adjacent territory or building.

Advice. The system should consist of linear and point drainage; the kit may also include protective devices against dirt. So before installation, you need to consult with a specialist: after all, any system is selected individually for the area.

Installation procedure

Installation of storm drains plays a big role in its further performance. Correct sequence action will give proper operation and high efficiency. You can find many on the Internet various photos, explaining the principles of installation. We will try to describe it to you below.

So, install the components in the following sequence:

1. We secure local water collection points under the pipes;
2. We carry out a linear outlet, which is based on trays;
3. We connect all components with pipes to the manifold.

Important! Install inspection wells, they will help avoid clogging. The collector needs to be installed, lowered to a greater depth, so that in frosty weather it does not freeze; if this is not possible, insulate it!

Basic rules and principles for installing drainage systems

1. Precipitation from raincoats enters the collector or spillway through pipes;
2. A drainage system must be connected from the same system;
3. For storm drains, PVC pipes with a diameter of 11 cm are mainly used;
4. Corrugated pipes that have a smooth surface inside may also be suitable;
5. As a rule, they are installed so that precipitation descends by gravity. To do this, maintain a slope of 1 cm per 1 m of pipe.
6. To prevent the system from freezing during the off-season, pipes must be laid below the freezing point of the soil;
7. If you cannot place the pipes at depth, then it is worth insulating them.

Attention! If possible, avoid turning pipelines. If you don’t have it, create 90 degree angles.

Even at the design stage and during the construction of any structure, a water drainage system must be installed. Properly installed, it will reliably protect the foundation of a house or office and the territory of the site from negative impact atmospheric precipitation. Internal, road, drainage and surface drainage must be combined into a single system; this is the only way they are guaranteed to cope with the task. It's not worth saving on them.

Video guide for installing surface drainage systems

Purpose of the water drainage system

The main task of the drainage system is to protect the foundation of the building, as well as all types of coating on the site and the surrounding area, from storm water. The presence of a well-designed and assembled drainage system increases the service life of the building several times and reduces repair costs. Under the influence of constant precipitation, asphalt and concrete fall apart and crumble within a year or a year and a half. But if linear drainage is provided on the territory, then you will have to think about a new coating no earlier than in 6 - 8 years.

When drawing up a drainage scheme, it is necessary to think through all the details, take into account the characteristics of the soil and topography, the presence of groundwater, the number of floors of the building, the intensity of vehicle traffic and, of course, the possibility of connecting to the general storm sewer system.

The importance of drainage garden plot it's hard to overestimate

Regardless of whether a commercial development is planned or a project for an individual residential building is being drawn up, the first thing you need to pay attention to is not the cost of the drainage system, but the expected load.

What should be the drainage system on the site?

Firstly, water drainage on the site must be a comprehensive system. Its main components are:

• roof water drainage system;
• surface system water drainage;
• internal drainage;
• groundwater drainage system.

The latter is mandatory in areas where the groundwater level is high enough or there is a high probability of seasonal flooding. It is especially necessary if the house has a basement or underground garage.

Roof drainage, like surface drainage, is designed to combat the negative effects of rain and snow. In addition, it prevents the occurrence of perched water, which is usually a seasonal phenomenon. For houses with basements, water flow becomes a pressing problem: a leaky septic tank (“cesspool”) fills up in a matter of days in the spring and during the rainy season.

Roof drainage allows you to direct the flow of water from the roof to Right place

A roof drainage system is designed to collect all rainwater from the roof of a building and deliver it to drainage points. If during construction, drainage from the roof became an area where savings were made, then broken paths, crumbled steps and a dirty foundation will not take long to appear.

Surface drainage

Next mandatory element common system should become a surface drainage system. Removing excess moisture from the site in this way is carried out by installing a system of point rainwater inlets and trays. It is not only effective, but also aesthetically fits perfectly into the general form buildings and surrounding area. The material benefits from the operation of surface drainage are felt already in the first few years. The greatest effect is achieved by combining surface drainage with underground drainage.

To organize a system for draining water from the surface, the following can be used:

• plastic trays (drainage channels)

Plastic trays are mainly used in private buildings

They are made of heavy-duty material

• concrete trays

They are used where there is a large load on the surface (roads, garages, entrance gate). The depth varies depending on the expected volume of water, the docking system guarantees reliable fastening and protects against shifts. The products are protected from above by gratings made of steel or cast iron.

Concrete trays have greater strength and relatively low cost compared to plastic ones.

• polymer composite trays

The material from which they are made is a carefully selected mixture of filler (granite or quartz chips, sand) and a binding mass, usually polyester or epoxy resin.

Polymer composite trays are the most promising substitute for plastic and concrete analogues

The main function of surface drainage is to protect the foundations of buildings, basements and ground floors from moisture. In addition, it prevents soil erosion and prevents waterlogging. The appearance of ice in winter period and puddles in the warm season can also be prevented with its help. Road drainage helps prevent soil subsidence and subsequent failures on roads, paths, and sidewalks. With it you can keep the landscape of the territory unchanged, since it reliable protection soil from washing away. By participating in the general improvement and creation uniform style, drainage also affects plant development. It allows the root system to develop harmoniously, protecting it from excess moisture.

Linear drainage

Speaking about the surface drainage system, it is necessary to separately mention its types and, first of all, linear drainage, as capable of coping with the heaviest loads. To organize it, the trays are laid flush with the surface, with a mandatory slope of five millimeters per meter of length. This is achieved either by laying it at an angle, or by purchasing trays in which the inclination system is already installed. The drainage channel is usually directed to a storm sewer well. Each tray must be covered with a decorative lattice on top.

Linear drainage systems are most often used on the site.

To protect sewers from clogging, sand traps are installed in them, which also trap small debris.

Point drainage

Point drainage has also firmly found its niche. It is a system of stormwater inlets and underground pipes with access to the sewer system.

Conventional rainwater inlets are installed where heavy loads are expected. They are closed on top with plastic or metal decorative grilles.

Storm water inlets are installed in areas of main water flows

Rain collectors with lateral water drainage perform the function of purifying rainwater from foreign impurities. This is important in cases where water is collected for economic and domestic needs.

The two-section drainage system allows you to monitor its condition and carry out timely cleaning.

A storm inlet with a vertical outlet is used to collect precipitation from the roof of buildings. They are connected to the gutters vertically. Their design includes a stale air trap that prevents the spread of unpleasant smell.

Cast iron rainwater inlets are used to drain water from road surface. This sewer hatches, which are installed in places of organized slopes and covered with gratings on top. Water entering this system flows directly into the sewer.

Depending on the purpose, the drainage system is installed in the lowest places, under drainpipes and watering units, in a word, where the use of a linear one is not necessary or is not possible.

Different kinds point drainage systems

Volumetric drainage

And how separate species we can distinguish volumetric drainage, which is a kind of “ layered cake» from geotextiles, lawn or geogrid, gravel, sand and soil. By maintaining the natural looseness of the soil through the reinforced lattice, it is possible to ensure ideal water drainage from gardening areas, open areas and lawns.

Internal drainage

Internal drainage is used not only in food or pharmaceutical industries. In everyday life, the most striking example of its use is the bathhouse. The internal water drainage system consists of trays and drains made of of stainless steel. It is designed for collection and disposal Wastewater into the general sewer network.

Groundwater drainage system

The groundwater drainage system is an engineering structure designed to collect and discharge infiltrated and groundwater. This is a branched structure of pipes (drains) and wells located around the entire perimeter and interconnected.

If drains are laid underground, a deep drainage system is formed. It allows you to remove water outside the site and lower the groundwater level. Such systems are used in swampy and excessively moist areas, as well as in the construction of basement floors.

When performing foundation drainage, preference should be given to polypropylene, polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride pipes.

Even before the construction of a building begins, several questions need to be answered:

1. What is the groundwater level at the construction site? What is the soil structure? This determines, in fact, the very need for a deep drainage system when designing basements. For this information, it is best to contact geodesy specialists.
2. Where will ground and surface water be discharged? Water can be discharged into a storm or mixed sewer system, as well as onto a drainage field, from which the water subsequently drains evenly into the ground in a specially designated area.
3. Do you need a drainage pump and a well, or will the water drain by gravity? It is imperative to determine the slopes on the site, and set the release point at the lowest part.
4. What is the size of the area from which water will be drained? Depending on this, a drainage system with appropriate throughput capacity is selected.
5. What surface pressure must drainage systems withstand? That is, whether cars will drive along the linear drainage system, people will walk, or no one will step on it. For deep drainage, the load also needs to be determined.

Drainage and water collection systems, with the right choice of materials, proper installation and timely maintenance, work and protect buildings and the site for many years. Making drainage yourself is a very real task. However, if you have doubts about your own abilities, it is better to invite professionals in this field. After all, the safety of basements and foundations is the key to the safety of the entire house, and therefore its residents.

A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn or washed out beds, healthy plants and perfect smooth paths- the result of competent planning and installation of surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without significant expenses, but it is possible if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.

It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water systems even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not backfilled. While construction is underway and there is equipment on site, it is advisable to order trench digging so as not to dig manually and carry dirt into the landscaped area. Protection from melt and rain water is:

Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house

• Surface linear storm drainage – collection and drainage of rainwater from the ground surface.

• Storm drainage is the removal of water flowing down drainpipes.

• Point drainage – drainage of local areas with problematic natural outflow.

Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system

Storm sewer network

The storm sewer network is equipped with a connection to the public main if there is a collector or city storm drain pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located at a large distance, the conclusion local system drainage and storm sewerage are organized in 2 ways: on a filtration field (an area covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or into a receiving tank (drainage well, pond, roadside ditch). Drainage from a private storm drain into a common household one sewer system prohibited.

System elements:

• Drainage gutters that are mounted along the edge of the roof slopes.
• Drainpipes.
• Water intake tanks.

Receiving tank with outlet

• External sewer pipes that are connected to water intake tanks.

The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, connecting the pipe to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drainage point.

Drainage: features of a surface storm system

The site surface drainage system consists of point and linear outlet branches connected into one network with outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is arranged in the form of open channels dug at a slope to the drainage point. Marking is carried out only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:

Drainage network: point catch basins and storm trenches

• Along the perimeter of the site.

• On slopes and on sites in natural depressions.

Drainage branches on a slope

• Around the paths.

Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area along the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, and steps.

Point drainage outlets are dug in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of drainpipes (in areas where there is no storm sewer). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into a discharge pipe of a common surface network.

Integration: is it possible to combine stormwater with a drainage network?

Two separate networks: drainage and stormwater

Optimal scheme drainage of the area with the house - separate drainage networks and storm drains around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewerage: during heavy rainfalls or rapid melting of snow, one pipe may not cope and overflow will occur through the water intakes.

It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug for a drainage outlet from a point drainage and sewer pipes are used rather than perforated pipes. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. Lay sealed sewer pipe into a channel with drainage backfill is prohibited: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the useful volume of the ditch and create difficulties when cleaning the trench.

General drainage of point drainage and storm water into a filtration tunnel

Instead of trying to connect stormwater and linear drainage in one pipe, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if it is not possible to tie into a city highway. Rainwater can be used for irrigation or filling artificial reservoirs. The receiver is set to plastic tanks, or they make wells without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.

How to make storm drainage in and around a country house

Storm drainage is a surface system that does not require extensive excavation work or digging deep trenches, so you can do a simple installation yourself. Before starting work, the places where lines and drainage points must be constructed are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is insufficient during heavy rainfall and after the snow begins to melt. An area with clayey, moisture-saturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface also requires the installation of branched linear storm drainage.

For preliminary calculations quantities necessary materials It is worth drawing a diagram of the canals on the site plan.

Storm drainage installation plan

Materials: what you will need to install a storm drainage network

List of materials needed for independent device storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:

• Trays (gutters) for installation around the foundation. Manufacturing materials – plastic, polymer concrete mixture, concrete. Plastic channels are installed in areas where there is minimal physical impact on the grates: along the edges of the lawn, in flower beds. Concrete gutters are strong and durable. This tray can withstand loads of up to 25 tons. Installed in places of high loads: in courtyards where there is constant traffic, on access roads. Protective grilles are also chosen: metal and cast iron - for areas with intense load, decorative plastic - for lawns and gardens.

• Connecting elements, spacers, bases. Auxiliary materials that the manufacturer recommends to use when assembling channels. Be sure to install spacers inside plastic trays.
• Sand catchers. Separately, products are purchased for installation in a linear system and for installation in storm water inlets.

On the walls - preparation for pipe outlet

• Storm water inlets. They use mainly ready-made plastic containers. The outer walls are equipped with preparation for connection to the outlet. Plastic receivers are easily installed on top of each other - you can assemble a container of any height.

Containers with basket and attachments

• Geotextiles. Cloth for drainage backfill channels not equipped with gutters.

Synthetic water-permeable fabric

1. Crushed stone, sand. The crushed stone fraction is medium and coarse.
2. Mortar for pouring the base under gutters and water inlets.
3. Drainage wells. Ready-made plastic or large-diameter corrugated pipes.

Factory PVC drainage wells

• Pipes for external sewerage with fittings.
• Construction tool. You will need rough boards for formwork in the channels, pegs and fishing line for marking, shovels, picks, and a building level.

Installation of point water intakes

Point water intakes are stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.

The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating

The dimensions of the hole for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a hole, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.

Checking horizontal level

A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on the sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in a fresh solution (if necessary, permanent fixation).

A rainwater inlet is installed on a concrete base so that the container lid is at the same level as the blind area. If the installation is carried out before laying the decorative covering, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.

Correct installation receiver

The side gaps are filled with crushed stone or filled with concrete. Before backfilling, a fitting is connected to the outlet to drain the pipe. Install the internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.

Arrangement of an open storm system around the foundation

Stormwater drainage along the perimeter of the building can be planned in the form of a ring closed at the collection point, without inspection wells. Demountable sand traps are provided for cleaning. Device Rules linear system:

• The distance from the edge of the foundation should be 50 cm. It is optimal to plan the channels along the edge of the paths or blind area.

Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a height reserve for paving slabs

• The depth of the channels is determined by the height of the tray with decorative cover with the addition of the height of the bulk layer - up to 40 cm.

• Width – up to 50 cm.

To ensure that the installed gutters do not move or deform over time, several rules must be followed during excavation work. The bottom and walls must be smooth and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding must be made.

Plastic tray mounted on factory stand

To prevent the tray (especially a plastic one) from becoming deformed, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.

Laying the gutter on the solution

Gutters are installed in the prepared trenches. The structures are connected to each other with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and end of the line) are covered with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.

Sand trap in drainage line

The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are filled with crushed stone or concreted. On long sections, sand traps are installed - deep trays with a mechanical filter. At the installation sites, discharge pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.

Budget storm drainage of the site: building open channels

Drain rainwater from garden paths, flower beds and along the fence can be economical open method. Instead of ready-made trays, backfill storm drainage channels are installed. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth – from 50 cm, width – from 50 – 60 cm.

Instead of gutters - backfill trench

The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correctness of the slope. For one meter – up to 3 cm height difference.

Pipe in crushed stone backfill

Geotextiles are laid on the sand layer. The edges are left free. The entire width of the trench is filled with crushed stone in a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Fold the edges of the fabric overlapping.

Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line

The drainage clip is covered with decorative material on top: river pebbles, multi-colored crumbs, stone. Dry streams - aesthetic and economical solution.

Drainage well and drain outlet

The drainage well is the connection point of the system. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on a crushed stone bed. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates into the ground.

Drainage well with backfill bottom

If installing a filter well is not possible, then the liquid is drained from the drainage tank into a common storm main or taken outside the site - into a natural reservoir or ditch. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or receiving tank dug into the area.

Video: installation of storm drains around the house

Stormwater and linear open drain– only the superficial part of the foundation protection. It is necessary to create 3–4 types of drainage systems along the perimeter of buildings at different depths. Choosing a method of organization and technical parameters networks depends on the composition of the soil and the depth of the foundation. It’s not worth making deep drainage networks yourself. Calculations should be carried out by specialists, and it is better to install trench branches immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, deep reservoir drainage is installed. Not only the ability of the system to drain water into large quantities, but also the durability of the foundation.

Roof and surface drainage systems are interconnected.

They involve organizing the drainage of water resulting from precipitation (rain, fog) and melting snow.

If they are not diverted, then sooner or later a special type of soil water will appear on the site - perched water.

System arrangement

The organization of drainage on the site includes a set of works involving the arrangement of a number of systems:

• roofing;
• superficial;
• drainage (necessary when the house has ground floor, basements or a garage with inspection hole, and the groundwater level (hereinafter referred to as GWL) in this area is high).

Despite the seasonal nature (manifests mainly in spring and late autumn, during periods of intense rain), it can cause significant damage to the building structure.

• floods basements
• inspection holes,
• leads to deformation of the floors.

Because of the high water, the owners private houses have to spend more often on cleaning cesspools and septic tanks.

Organization of drainage from the roof

The purpose of the roof drainage system is to collect rain and melt water from roofs and transport it to accumulation points (separate tanks or ordinary buckets).

It consists of transverse gutters and vertical pipes with outlet funnels. Depending on the cross-section of the pipes (), rectangular and round drainage systems are distinguished.

The latter have a large throughput and are usually installed at industrial facilities and multi-storey buildings.

Gutters and pipes for water drainage roofs are made of galvanized metal. This is a practical, light weight, durable and at the same time inexpensive material.

It is not advisable to save on a roof drainage system. Without it, rainfall will gradually destroy the blind area, slabs, steps, and the walls of the house will be constantly splashed with dirt.

Surface drainage

The main function of this system is to protect the foundation and floors from destructive influence sediments accumulating on the surface.

In its absence, the foundation will “float” within a few years after the building is put into operation, and the asphalt or paving stones will crack.

When laying surface drainage, various factors are taken into account:

• relief;
• soil composition;
• vibration loads on the ground;
• estimated volumes of water discharged, etc.

Based on functionality, linear and a point system for draining water from the surface of the site.

The first one accumulates and removes precipitation from extended areas, while the point type collects water in separate reservoirs related to storm sewers.

The materials for such systems are:

• concrete and polymer concrete;
• plastic;
• fiberglass.

The main classifying criteria for such systems are the pipe capacity (volume of water discharged per unit of time) and load class.

The minimum load class (A-C) is for plastic pipelines, the maximum, F (up to 90 tons) is for polymer concrete ones.

Reset point

Before you begin designing and installing roofing and surface drainage systems, you should determine the discharge point for the total volume of water.

Depending on the location of the site and nearby infrastructure, these may include:

• natural bodies of water;
• sewer collectors;
• drainage field (several shallow holes where water accumulates and is subsequently evenly absorbed into the soil).

The drainage system is designed in this way so that the release point is at the bottom of the site.

If there is no slope, and the volumes of discharged wastewater are large, you will need a drainage well (how to clean it from sludge is written) with a pump.

If the building and local area located on a hill, everything is solved more simply - drainage trays are stretched from them to the discharge point, leading to the drainage ditch.

A common mistake many homeowners make is organizing a discharge point in close proximity to the foundation.

They spend money on installing rainwater inlets on the roof, but all the water is discharged to the ground directly below them. In this case, it makes no difference whether there is a drainage system or not, because... precipitation, collecting under the walls of the house, floods the foundation.

Water accumulates in the ground “sins” and turns into ice with the onset of frost. As it expands, it destroys concrete floors.

Therefore, the precipitation captured by the system must be drained either into a special tray or into a rainwater inlet.

It is impossible to combine surface drainage with an underground drainage system, because during heavy rainfall, precipitation will move in the opposite direction and flood the foundation.

Underground drainage on the site

Surface drainage systems cannot provide sufficient drainage of areas with high groundwater levels.

In such cases, underground or deep drainage is installed.

It consists of multiple ditches located below ground level.

It is carried out around the perimeter of everything land plot, including buildings.

That is why it is advantageous to combine the arrangement of deep drainage with work on pouring the foundation. Laying ditches under an already built house will cost much more.

The more extensive the network drainage ditches, the more effective the fight against perched water will be. The arrangement of underground drainage under the building consists of several stages.

Digging trenches, in which drainage pipes () will be laid along the entire perimeter of the building.

They do not dig end to end, but at a distance of 1 m from the foundation, with a slight slope in the direction of the waste discharge.

Their depth must match the depth of the foundation. The trenches are lined with an even layer of sand or small gravel and compacted.

Laying pavement from a special material - geolatex.

Its structure allows water to pass freely, but retains organic particles, so the drainage is not clogged with silt.

The edges of the lining are fixed to the walls of the trenches.

It turns out to be a kind of bag wrapped around the drainage pipe.

Strengthening the system. A layer of crushed stone is poured on top of the trench, compacted and leveled, while maintaining the slope for water discharge.

Laying drainage pipes in prepared trenches and backfilling the entire system with coarse sand.

Where drainage trenches turn the so-called inspection wells (read which inspection well to buy for drainage) - vertical tanks reaching the very surface.

They are closed with hatches and serve to flush the deep drainage system in case of clogging (a special high-pressure apparatus is used for this).

Make a drainage system on your site is not the most difficult thing, it is much more difficult to find where to dump this water.

If the village does not have a unified drainage system, you will need to make a drainage well into which drainage pipes will be routed (it is written about corrugated sewer pipes for external sewerage on the page).

In such a well () from a small area you can collect both storm water and drainage water, and in a large area two separate wells are made.

Sometimes you get lucky, and after a few rings you can stumble upon a layer of sand. Then all the water that gets into will go into the sand.

If there is no sand, you will have to pump out excess water drain pump, for which you will need to supply electricity.

It is even better to use two pumps (one backup), because heavy rain one may not cope and the well will overflow.

This method can be used to absorb small amounts of water.

1. A hole is dug in the soil with a volume of, for example, a cubic meter or half a cubic meter.
2. Its walls are covered with geotextile.
3. The pit is filled with crushed stone, which is again covered with geotextile and covered with soil.

It’s good if drainage is done for the entire village at once, but if one person does this, he will have to constantly pump out the water with a pump, as in Holland, because new cubic meters of water will come from neighboring areas.

Watch the video we offer about drainage of water on a personal plot.

Since we are talking about arranging drainage, it means that our house is already standing (designed) and we are moving on to landscaping or landscape design. I am sincerely happy for you, Lord! I’m just as pleased with the fact that you are interested in the question: “How to optimally implement water drainage from the site and from the house?" Having sorted this out, you will save a lot of time and money.

Let me start with the fact that water drainage is a complex task and should include complementary systems:

1. Roof drainage system.
2. Surface drainage system.
3. If the groundwater level (GWL) on the site is high and the house has, for example, a basement or underground garage, there is a need to arrange a deep drainage system for drainage of groundwater.

The first two systems provide for the removal of rainwater (to eliminate the negative effects of precipitation), the removal of melt water (snow melting) and, accordingly, prevent the appearance of the so-called. "upper water". Verkhodka, along with groundwater, is a type of soil water, has a seasonal nature and appears as a result of precipitation, melting snow, excessive watering, etc. As a rule, by mid-summer it disappears altogether and can appear briefly only after heavy rainfalls.

Water leakage is an unpleasant problem for houses with a foundation (basement), and is also the reason for the rapid filling of a leaky septic tank (cesspool) in spring period and during heavy rainfall.

The task of a roof drainage system is to collect all rainwater from the roof of buildings and bring it to the right points catchment area If you save on roof drainage, the rains will gradually break up your paths, blind areas, steps and will splash an even layer of dirt on the foundation of the building to a height of up to 50 cm.

Well, if your basement is flooded, its walls are saturated with moisture, and the septic tank needs to be pumped out every 7-10 days - you cannot do without deep drainage.

1. What is the soil structure and groundwater level (hereinafter referred to as GWL) on your site? The answer to this question will clarify the need for underground (deep) drainage and waterproofing of the basement, if any. The bearers of this mysterious knowledge are usually the same people who drilled your water well or specialized geodetic organizations.
2. Where will it be performed? drainage of surface and groundwater? This answer will help you figure out the water discharge point (it can be the same for both surface and groundwater) and will simplify the preparation of a technical solution. I am familiar with the following options:
   • Storm drainage. As a rule, this is a large diameter concrete pipe. Ideally, it is buried below the freezing depth of the soil and equipped with collectors, i.e. connection points individual systems storm drainage, for example, from your site. Stormwater is drained into natural reservoirs.
   • Mixed sewerage. Removes superficial and, in fact, sewage. Also equipped with collectors. Provides for the arrangement of wastewater treatment systems before their discharge, for example, into reservoirs.
   • Drainage field (infiltration system). Equipped if the options listed above are not available. A system that ensures uniform and natural “absorption” of stormwater into the ground directly at the collection site.
   • Neighbor's plot :). The simplest and quick way, which also allows you to “get closer” to your neighbors in the shortest possible time.
3. Will the water be drained by gravity or is a drainage well and pump needed? To do this, you need to answer the previous questions, as well as determine the slopes of the site. A discharge point should be provided at the lowest part of the site.

If your site is located on a slope and you want to drain surface water flowing from the upstream site, then to intercept the water you should provide a system of drainage trays perpendicular to the slope in the upper part of the site (then the site looks landscaped and has a flat surface) or dig a drainage ditch along the upper border of the site and connect it with the side ditches (the site becomes like a medieval outpost).

4. What is the area of ​​the drainage area? The throughput and, accordingly, the cost of water collection systems depends on this. Knowing the area of ​​your site, you can independently calculate the estimated flow of rainwater, which should be removed by drainage systems. Use the program for this.
5. What load (surface pressure) must engineering structures withstand to water drainage? Let me rephrase. Who will walk (drive) on them? The so-called load class and still the same cost. The load class is important for both deep and surface drainage.

After you have answered the preparatory theoretical issues, you should take up implementation. I strongly recommend developing a project or just a technical solution. To do this, you should either contact design organization(department of water disposal and sewerage), or draw a sketch yourself.... and find an unperturbed builder who will take on the task of bringing it to life.

Ask and get into the details! Builders in most cases install a drainage system to drain water from the roof, but do not consider it necessary to divert this water far from the foundation. I know of cases where a contractor installed storm water inlets, but collected water“diverted” through the bottom of these same rainwater inlets into the ground near the foundation. In this case, there is no fundamental difference between water simply draining from the roof and wetting the foundation, or flowing through the drainage system (collecting in a storm water inlet) and... wetting the foundation. The soil adjacent to the foundation, after construction work usually more loose than natural soil, so rainwater accumulates in the sinuses and penetrates into the concrete. In winter, water freezes and destroys concrete structures.

Therefore, in addition to constructing a blind area around the house 80-100 cm wide, assembled drainage system The water must be drained into a storm drain. This can be done by a system of drainage trays (Fig. 1) or by installing point storm water inlets (Fig. 2).

In the first case, we have less excavation work, the system will always be available for inspection and repair. In the second case, we can lay the pipe from the storm water inlets in the same trench with the drainage pipe.

In this case, in no case should you connect the surface drainage system with the drainage of the foundation of the house. Otherwise, rainwater will enter the drainage and vice versa - wet the foundation!!!

From above, sand traps and drainage channels are covered with removable protective and decorative grilles, which prevent debris and leaves from entering the system, and do not interfere with the movement of pedestrians and vehicles. The linear drainage system is connected to the storm sewer through a system of vertical and horizontal drains.

Important!!! When installing surface drainage, slopes should be provided (minimum 0.005, i.e. 5 mm per meter of length) for the movement of water by gravity! This can be done in two ways:

1. By using the slope of the surface.
2. Through the use of channels whose internal surface is sloped (this function is provided in concrete channels from some manufacturers: Standartpark, Hauraton, ACO), as well as through a stepped slope organized using channels of different heights.

It is most advisable to combine the arrangement of an underground drainage system with foundation work- it won't cost much. If, during the operation of the house, it turns out that the groundwater level is very high, and the drainage of water from the house is not organized, this will cost you a pretty penny.

Underground drainage is a system of drainage pipes (drains, i.e. pipes with holes, filled with crushed stone and wrapped in geotextiles) and drainage wells. Geotextiles protect drains from silting.

Drainage wells are designed for Maintenance drainage system, for example, cleaning with a jet of water. A drainage well is provided at every second bend of the pipe, so that both the inlet and outlet sections of the pipes can be serviced through it.

The wells are assembled from concrete rings with a diameter of 400 mm and 700 mm. Recently, ready-made plastic wells diameter 315 mm.

Collected drainage pipes water enters the collection well (water collected from surface drainage), equipped with a check valve that prevents water from the well from flowing back into the drainage system. From a common well, water is removed (for example, pumped out) into a communal storm sewer, an open drain, or it is absorbed into the soil through a specially poured layer of crushed stone (drainage field).

Well, in general, it’s enough for the first time (especially if you don’t have special education). Conclusion: Arranging surface and, if necessary, deep drainage is a feasible task, but... if in doubt, trust it to professionals. If you are going to secure basements, foundations, etc., and are faced with perched water (groundwater), then due to the complexity and complexity of the task, I advise you to choose one contractor who will be responsible for the development and installation of the entire system as a whole. This is important because individual works performed by different contractors, as a rule, do not solve the problem as a whole, and the contractor always has the opportunity to declare: “It’s not me!” Try to negotiate a warranty on your drainage systems for at least a year. Only a full season will prove their viability!

Since you're paying money, don't commit so much not an easy task, for example, to the tilers who pave your paths! They can be performers - but they must be led by a professional.

Vladimir Polevoy.

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