The first roses appeared on my plot about thirty years ago. What have I done with them? I covered them for the winter, arranging entire structures over them, but they constantly died, and everything started all over again. Then I got tired of it, and for some time I gave up the idea of growing roses.
Everything changed a few years ago when I found winter-hardy seedlings in one of the nurseries in Serbia. Their roses, grafted onto special rose hips, tolerate Siberian frosts well.
Of course, roses take cuttings well. You can always remove the cutting and plant it in the ground. In a week it will give roots, and exactly the same bush will grow next to you. But at the same time, it is important to remember that a rooted rose, no matter how you cover it, will not withstand Siberian frosts. And roses that grow on their own roots, in mandatory you need to dig it up and take it to the basement for the winter. To avoid unnecessary waste of energy and time, I buy 2-3-year-old seedlings grafted onto a winter-hardy rootstock.
Now I have a real rose garden. There are hybrid tea varieties, mini roses, floribundas, climbing roses, ground cover and grandifloras. Some of the most beloved climbing roses are Don Juan and Polka, ground cover roses Swaney, Scarlet, Fairy and Concerto. Floribunda roses - Freesia, Goldie and Samba, mini roses - Orange Jewel and Mini Yellow, grandiflora Angela, Fontaine and Lucia feel great. Of course, I cannot list all the varieties, because I have more than 30 of them.
Now the only roses I take to the basement for the winter are standard roses. It is difficult to cover them, they are very tall, I grow them in flowerpots. I am gradually preparing the remaining roses for winter. At the end of summer, I do not prune faded flowers, as their removal may cause unwanted autumn period shoot growth. In August, I feed roses with a solution of potassium monophosphate to strengthen the root system and allow the plant to prepare for winter. I rarely water. On all growing shoots I pinch the growing point.
In October, when persistent frosts begin, I cover the roses. Winter in Siberia is harsh, but even if frost sets in, there are practically no thaws. This has its advantages, because in fact, roses rarely freeze out; most often they die out, so they overwinter well under a good dry shelter, and in early spring They need to be opened promptly so that they are exposed to as little water as possible.
I do not prune climbing and ground cover roses., I pin the shoots to the soil, having previously laid them on spruce branches. The top can be covered with peat, humus or just soil, the most important thing is that it is dry. I do not recommend using sawdust and leaves as covering material, as they can be a source of various infections. It is best to install arcs made of wire (they should extend 20 cm above the plants), lay any insulating material on them (cardboard, bitumen-impregnated paper in several layers, etc.), and secure them on top plastic film. In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, the roses remain dry.
In spring I open roses gradually. I cut hybrid tea roses, floribunda and grandiflora, leave 10-15 cm from the ground, and cover them in the same way as described above. Grandiflora roses overwinter best; I don’t always trim them, I just pin them to the ground and cover them with spruce branches. I spray it with some copper-containing drug against fungal diseases. I add Narcissus to the fungicide; this drug is a good growth stimulator and additionally protects against pests and diseases. To avoid spring burns, immediately after removing the cover and processing, I throw on a non-woven covering material for a while.
Planting roses in raised beds. In spring, in such beds the soil warms up faster and the water does not stagnate. Since a rose grows in one place for 25 years, you need to take care of soil fertility in advance. In order for the plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need enough nutrition, so I add a lot of humus or compost. When planting, it is necessary to deepen the root collar, i.e. grafting site, approximately 3-5 cm, since the strongest shoots grow from the graft, if the graft is not deepened, it may dry out and the plant will die.
Rose is loved very much spider mite and aphids. To rid the decoration of your garden from this scourge, it is enough to treat the bushes with an appropriate pesticide. If there is no rain (and the rose loves abundant watering), I pour a bucket of water under one bush at a time. And for roses to bloom beautifully, it would be good to feed them with fertilizer. So, roses are very fond of Aquarin, which contains all trace elements. During abundant flowering, I water with a solution containing 2 tbsp. spoons of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. I do this once every 10 days, until August.
Many summer residents dream of having a garden fragrant with the delicate aromas of roses. This dream may well come true - just show patience and perseverance, and the roses will bloom even in the harsh conditions of the Urals. The selection of roses is constantly moving forward and, currently, there are many varieties intended for cultivation in the Ural climatic conditions. To avoid disappointment when cultivating roses, you should carefully choose a variety and try to collect as much information about it as possible. It is also worth noting that for lush and longer flowering, all roses need good mineral nutrition several times a season. Only in this case do they fully reveal their capabilities and delight gardeners with their flowering and aromas all season long.
The most impressive, but also the most demanding are hybrid tea roses. These varieties are capable of blooming twice per season, the second wave occurs at the end of August - September. In the Urals, these roses are grown by carefully covering them for the winter and not allowing them to bloom in the fall. To do this, the buds in the second wave of flowering are cut off. This way the roses can be better prepared for winter. For shelter, you can use spruce branches, peat, or cover the bushes with soil. In most cases, roses do not suffer from freezing, but from damping off in early spring, when excess moisture forms under the cover. To avoid this, you need to remove the cover in early spring and treat roses against fungal infections in the fall.
Ashram
One of the most popular varieties. He is loved for his unique appearance. It belongs to the group of hybrid teas. Large, 11-centimeter flowers grow on powerful stems, the height of which does not exceed 1.2 m. They have a special, rich orange or copper-brown color. The aroma emanating from the flowers is reminiscent of assorted fruits and vanilla.
Double Delight
The characteristic name indicates that the flower is unusual. That's how it is - it combines two colors. The base of the bud is bright cream, and the edges of the petals are red. The aroma of this variety of hybrid tea roses for Siberia is very reminiscent of the taste of raspberries or strawberries. Shoots are very easy to create the desired shape bush. The stems and root system are strong and straight.
American Pride
This variety has spectacular red-burgundy, velvety, double flowers (up to 15 cm in diameter) in the shape of a glass. They can be located on the stem one at a time or 5-7 buds. The rose bush is thick and upright. The strong stems are strewn with leathery large leaves dark green color. When growing hybrid tea roses of the American Pride variety, you need to take into account that this plant is picky about watering. If the soil is not moist enough, there are fewer buds on the bush and they become smaller.
Alexander
This bright hybrid tea rose has cup-shaped double flowers (up to 12 cm), located singly on tall stems and tolerates rain well. The tall and slightly spreading bush is decorated with chic light green leaves, which over time acquire a reddish tint. The rose reaches a height of 1.5 m, so it is not suitable for a small flower garden. The plant is resistant to disease, but for spectacular flowering throughout the growing season, it is necessary to regularly trim off the faded buds. It is better to place a flower bed with these roses in a sunny place protected from the wind.
Floribunda roses
varieties for the Urals and Siberia
The flowers of this rose are very similar to hybrid tea in their shape and beauty, but are slightly smaller in size. And the shape can be very diverse: goblet-shaped, flat and bowl-like. They bloom long and profusely. These can be terry or simple flowers with shiny leaves. These are mostly slender, straight plants, sometimes slightly spreading, up to 120 centimeters high. Floribunda roses are not afraid of frost, and if frost does damage them, they recover faster than other varieties. Compared to other hybrid tea varieties, Floribunda rose is the most resistant to various diseases.
Arthur Bell
This winter-hardy, cheerful floribunda has a rich, fruity aroma. The downside is that the flowers fade: they start out a wonderful bright yellow but quickly turn lemony and creamy. The flowers are semi-double, with crimson stamens. They appear in medium-sized clusters and on a bush with thick, hard, prickly shoots. The flowers are rain resistant. Forms a tall bush with dense leathery foliage, the flowers are large and weather resistant. Resistant to black spot and powdery mildew good. Flowering begins in early summer and continues until autumn.
Jack Frost
The flowers of this variety of roses are white to cream in color, average size, densely double (up to 50 petals), with a high center, in inflorescences. The bud is pointed. Has a pronounced aroma. The bush is medium, with straight shoots. The rose blooms abundantly. The variety is suitable for winter forcing.
Deja Vu
Tight, cone-shaped, with a slightly elongated shape, the bud of this rose variety has about 30 wavy petals. The color is pinkish-orange with a yellow tint and red edging. The flower is double, growing up to 9-12 cm in diameter. The branched bush has straight shoots and is of medium height. The height is about a meter, and the width is within 60 cm. Buds appear in 2-6 pieces on the shoot. The stems are covered with medium-sized foliage. The aroma is light and pleasant. The variety is well suited for landscaping garden plots. Winter hardiness is high, but it is advisable to cover the bush for the winter. Disease resistance is above average, but additional treatments will only be a big plus. Rose Deja Vu loves sunlight very much.
Freesia
This rose variety is one of the most unpretentious. The bright yellow petals of this rose have a uniform color of the purest yellow and remain bright throughout the entire flowering period, from June to September, practically without fading. The buds appear singly or in clusters, with 4-7 flowers in each. The foliage is shiny and has a rich dark green color. The rose has a strong stem that can withstand strong winds and does not bend even in heavy downpours.
Evelyn Fison or Irish Wonderr
The bush of this rose is branched, rather spreading and prickly, growing up to 80 cm in height. Its leaves are leathery, greenish-shiny. The cup-shaped buds with many double petals of bright red and burgundy along the edges are simply mesmerizing. Flowers do not fade in the sun and are not damaged by heavy rains. Rose Evelyn Fison grows well both in a lighted area and in partial shade. The most suitable soil for it is with neutral acidity. Plant these attractive roses in your garden and... necessary care they will delight you with vigorous and fragrant flowering every summer, despite the harsh Ural climate.
Climbing rose
varieties for the Urals and Siberia
The climbing rose is the queen of vertical gardening. It is magnificent in the decorative decoration of arches, trellises, arbors and others architectural forms. Climbing roses can grow in the Urals if they are carefully covered for the winter. In the fall, the lashes are carefully removed from the grates and laid on the ground, covered with spruce branches on top, and covered with peat or earth. In all other respects, the requirements remain the same as for hybrid tea varieties.
Chippendale
These are semi-climbing scrub roses that occupy a special place in the hearts of Ural flower growers. Their large, double, fragrant flowers have a complex structure. Primary colors: orange, peach or dark orange. These roses are often planted in continuous flowering beds, combined with other flowers.
Rosarium Uetersen
Belongs to the category winter-hardy varieties. Many summer residents prefer these colors. The continuity of their flowering will delight the gardener throughout the season. It recovers very quickly in the spring. The average diameter of dark pink flowers is 4-6 cm. The shoots are very powerful and can reach up to 3 m in length. In this case, the bush requires gartering with special structures.
Mont Blanc
Like all roses of this variety, Montblanc needs strong support due to its powerful, vigorous bush, reaching a height of 4-5 meters. The leaves are large, leathery, glossy, dark green. The flowers are densely double, pure white, up to 12 cm in diameter, with a persistent light aroma. Their shape varies from goblet to cup-shaped with 60-70 petals. At the end of flowering, the charm of the flowers is enhanced by their pinkish color. Flowering - blooms once per season, long and abundantly. In some cases, repeated flowering with further fruit formation is possible. For a beautiful shape, the plant needs to be pruned.
Lawinia
The rose has a rich pink color. The height of the bush is from 200 to 300 cm. The width is about 200 cm. Lawinia is very resistant to disease. The elegant buds of this rose open into cupped flowers in large loose clusters of up to 7 pieces. The flowering is very abundant, so that the plant in bloom is completely covered with large, fragrant flowers that are not afraid of rain. The foliage is large, medium green. The rose blooms profusely again, and there is practically no break in flowering. The bush is erect and strong, so this variety can be grown both as a free-growing scrub and as a climbing rose.
Pierre de Ronsard
The diameter of the flower of this rose is no less than 7 cm. The color of the petals is delicate, creamy white, turning into a pink edging. The aroma is very subtle, sometimes slightly perceptible. The size of the bush is average, the shoots grow slowly, so rose bushes of Pierre de Ronsard reach their greatest decorative value after three years of age. The leaves are hard. The leaf blades are large and bright green. Thorns are present on the shoots in small quantities. Flowers appear in waves, the first bloom being the most abundant. Repeated blooms are more modest, the flowers open smaller. The rose blooms from the second half of June almost until frost. In the Urals, flowers may lack warmth. The buds, in this case, remain under-opened, and the outer petals, instead of a cream color, remain greenish.
Gloria Dei
Incredibly large and beautiful at all stages of bloom, the double flowers of this rose begin their development from elegant buds. When fully bloomed, the bud is soft yellow with a raspberry-pink edge, which gradually fades in the sun and becomes creamy. One flower has from 26 to 43 petals. The petals are large, hold well, and do not fall off for a long time. The color and aroma are affected by growing conditions, place of growth, and time of year. The beauty's scent is as changeable as its color. Some note a strong sweetish-fruity smell, others - a gentle, barely perceptible one. The bush is vigorous, up to 2 m, branched, well-leafed, the foliage is dark, rich green. Looks great even when not in bloom. The variety is practically disease-free and is characterized by increased resistance to frost.
Alchemist
Large-flowered climbing or giant bush rose, reaching, under favorable conditions, 5.5 m in height and 2.5 m in width. The bush is powerful, fast growing, with straight, hard shoots, prickly. The foliage is large, glossy, bronze-green, darkening with age to brown shades. The “Alchymist” rose blooms once, occurring at the beginning of summer and lasting for several weeks. But the flowers are very unusual. The Alchymist rose is a true chameleon, constantly changing its outstanding color depending on the flowering period and weather conditions. At first the buds are dark yellow, then when the flower opens pink inner petals appear, which creates general impression apricot color. Over time, yellow tones fade to cream or even white, and pinks become more saturated, especially in hot weather. The shape, like the color, changes during flowering: cup-shaped flowers open from goblet-shaped buds, then the petals bend slightly downwards and form a rosette-shaped flower. Densely double (50-60 petals), large fragrant flowers of the “Alchymist” rose, reaching a diameter of 11 cm, are collected in brushes of 3-5 pieces and stay on the branches for a long time. Disease resistance and frost resistance are high.
Park roses
varieties for the Urals and Siberia
Park roses are considered the most unpretentious; they are also called wrinkled (based on the type of leaves). They can withstand low winter temperatures without shelter, because these varieties are bred on the basis of rose hips, which grows everywhere and is not afraid of pests and diseases. Thanks to this relationship, park roses are adapted to growing in the most extreme conditions, overwinter without shelter and bloom luxuriantly every year. The disadvantages of these roses include their relatively short flowering and simple form flower, which is closer to the rosehip flower.
Golden Celebration
This is the best variety of park roses for the Urals. It tolerates cold well and is unpretentious when grown. This hybrid from the nursery of David Austin (a famous English breeder) blooms twice a year with bright yellow buds. Golden Celebration belongs to the category of the most fragrant frost-resistant roses. Its lemon-caramel smell spreads over several tens of meters.
Prairie Joy
The height of the bush is about 120 cm. The width is about 130 cm, it rarely happens more. The flowers are quite large, densely double, old style, with a button in the center, deep pink, fade to soft pink. They appear one at a time or in clusters of up to 6 pieces, then small orange fruits are formed. The bush is vigorous, branched, densely leafy. The variety is resistant to diseases. It grows quickly, producing more and more strong shoots from the base, which can droop in an arched manner during flowering. This rose is very easy to grow - just plant and forget. Prairie Joy was bred by crossing frost-hardy varieties, so its frost resistance is exceptional. Prairie Joy is a relatively new variety that combines a superb flower shape with a low, neat bush, making it ideal for hedges. Blooms profusely and is quite winter-hardy. Somewhat susceptible to black spotting.
Louis Odier
Park bush rose Louis Odier is a representative of Bourbon roses with an ideal flower shape. The color of the flowers is soft pink at the edges and a thick, rich shade in the center. The flowers are cup-shaped, with a diameter of 8 to 12 centimeters, formed singly or in clusters of 4-5 pieces. Under their weight, they hang from the bush, making it look like a blooming fountain. Louis Odier blooms profusely and in waves. Between two flowering periods it produces single flowers. The rose exudes a subtle aroma reminiscent of lemon candy. Flexible, graceful shoots of the variety reach a length of up to two and a half meters. The bush grows up to 120 centimeters in width. The foliage of the bush is pale green, with a matte surface, and dense. A rose has few thorns.
Chinatown
a very popular variety, mesmerizingly beautiful double flowers dark yellow in color, thick and bright, reminiscent of honey. The flowers are large (8-10 cm), double (46-48 petals). The aroma of flowers is pleasant, fruity, and attracts bees and butterflies to the garden. The bush is always beautifully shaped, densely leafy, grows up to 175 cm. The rose feels good even on poor soils.
Alexander MacKenzie
Refers to varieties of roses bred in Canada specifically to survive in harsh winter conditions. It blooms all summer, is resistant to disease, requires minimal care and can withstand frosts down to -35 C. This rose blooms in clusters that can have up to 15 flowers. The flowers themselves have a bright red hue. The foliage on the bushes is large and shiny, which makes this rose even more noticeable among others. The bush has characteristic arched shoots. It can be grown as a climber or as a spreading bush. The bush is erect and has gracefully drooping ends of the shoots. The buds, which resemble tulip buds, very quickly take on the appearance of a classic rose shape with petals bending down. They are under excessive direct influence sun rays from a red tint can gradually fade to Pink colour. The variety is very resistant to diseases. It takes cuttings well. Bush height 180 cm. Lighting: sun to partial shade. Flowering is abundant and continuous.
Champlain
Winter-hardy and almost continuously blooming rose. Only severe frosts stop its flowering. The flowers are a rich, velvety red color with a cluster of golden stamens in the center. In addition, the variety has excellent disease resistance. The bush is quite compact (90-120 cm high and wide), perfect for planting in flower beds. Also beautiful when planted in a hedge. The only drawback of this variety is that it grows slowly, perhaps because it spends a lot of energy on abundant flowering. But the variety takes root very easily, although cuttings are difficult to obtain, because The bush is not tall and is in full bloom.
Morden Blush
The flowers are a beautiful pale pink, with strokes of dark pearl pink in the center and creamy white edges - pinker in cooler weather. The bush is low, erect, easy to take cuttings. The rose is very beautiful, with its own charm. "Morden Blush" is the most profusely flowering variety in the Parkland series, and the most popular. The flowers are double, with many small, curved petals opening from buds resembling hybrid tea roses in shape. They hold their shape for a long time, sometimes up to two weeks, and the fully opened pale pink flowers contrast with the rich pink buds. Flowers appear one at a time and in clusters of up to 6 pieces. The foliage is dark, shiny, disease resistant in dry weather, but susceptible to black spot in wet conditions. Blooms profusely and continuously until the first frost.
Morden Sunrise
The very first winter-hardy yellow rose of the Parkland series of Canadian roses. Perfect for free-form plantings. Beautiful yellow flowers appear throughout the summer. The bush is erect, 70 cm tall and approximately the same width. The flowers are fragrant, yellow-orange or yellow. In cold weather, pink shades appear. Flowers are about 8 cm in diameter, semi-double, appear in racemes of 4-8 pieces. The foliage is very attractive, dark green, shiny. This is complemented by good resistance to black spot, powdery mildew and rust. Withstands winters in zone 3 without shelter. Roots well from cuttings.
Canadian roses
varieties for the Urals and Siberia
Among garden roses, special attention should be paid to Canadian roses - their flower shape is as exquisite as that of hybrid tea roses, and the bushes are unpretentious, like park varieties. Once you plant a Canadian rose bush, you can enjoy its flowering for decades, without having to worry about covering it.
Henry Hudson
The Canadian park rose Henry Hudson has white flowers with a red coating. The height of the bushes reaches a little more than half a meter, and in diameter - no more than 1 meter. It is resistant to many diseases. The peculiarity of the variety is the ease of propagation by cuttings - they take root very easily in the soil.
David Thompson
Fragrant crimson flowers rise on shoots about 1.3 m long. Lush buds(about 25 petals) look very beautiful. They bloom for a long time - all summer and autumn.
Jens Munk
Jens Munk has the strongest root-stem system. Thus, a powerful bush is formed, up to two meters high. Pink flowers, the diameter of which does not exceed 7 cm, have a persistent aroma and a beautiful shape.
Charles Albanel
This variety is very beautiful and in demand. Charles Albanel is one of the shortest frost-resistant varieties. Their height reaches a little more than half a meter; in appearance, the bush resembles the ground cover species of this plant. The period of active flowering occurs at the beginning of summer and continues until the first frost. The flowers on the bush do not grow densely, but have a very attractive appearance and shape.
Martin Frobisher
Rose Martin Frobisher (Canadian park) looks good in original landscape solutions. It is often planted in city flower beds because it is not whimsical and does not require care. In some parks, these flowers are used to create hedges to highlight the lines of the seating area. The height of the bushes reaches 2 m. The light red flowers of the Canadian rose Martin Frobisher are very fragrant and lush, each bud has about 40 petals.
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The queen of gardens and parks, the rose, has long been and deservedly loved by flower growers around the world. This flower also decorates Russian landscapes. Its climbing species are ideal for vertical gardening. Is it possible to grow beautiful and healthy roses in Siberia? Planting and care (photos and tips are presented in the article), carried out correctly, as well as recommendations for combating diseases will help you cope with this task.
Where to plant
If you want to decorate the wall of your house with plants, then roses are not the best choice. suitable choice.
Inside your home, there is a high risk of unwanted temperature changes. On one side there is the cold air of the street, on the other there is the warm wall of the house. Snow melting or drifts and icing during thaw periods are likely. Such contrasts are detrimental to delicate plants. Even good lighting on the southern wall may not save the situation. You shouldn't plant roses near walls at all. A well-lit place with partial shade in the center or on the outskirts of the site will be more comfortable for them. If you really want to decorate your house, then plant bushes at a distance of at least a meter from the southern wall.
Soil preparation
How to save seedlings?
Propagation by cuttings
Ramblers
Ramblers are very convenient plants for decorating small areas. Their lashes grow up to five meters, they are very flexible and plastic. They are twisted around the support clockwise, trying to ensure that the branch lies horizontally.
This technique stimulates the growth of new flowering shoots of the rose. Planting and caring for the Rambler variety in Siberia is suitable for beginner gardeners. Its flowers are small, double, collected in lush inflorescences, which very densely cover the entire bush. Although the flowering is once, it is very abundant and lasts almost whole month. To make flowers decorate your garden longer, stop fertilizing at the beginning of flowering and keep the soil under the bush moist.
Variety with fragrant flowers
Miniature climbing rose
Climbers
Shelter for the winter
Opening
Fertilizers
Diseases and pests
Black spot
Powdery mildew
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Roses for the regions of Siberia
Quite often in the cold climate of Siberia, the Westerland variety named above is found New Dawn, And William Shakespeare. The first has bright large inflorescences of an orange hue. Its main advantage is early flowering.
By the way, the climbing rose of the New Dawn variety is one of the most persistent representatives of this family, and therefore, if you doubt the climate of your region, choose this particular variety, and you will never go wrong.
When choosing the William Shakespeare variety for yourself, you should know that this is a fairly new variety. It has a bush of medium height and blooms with large purple inflorescences. If, when purchasing a variety, the number 2000 is present in the name, you should know that the marking indicates the seedling’s higher resistance to fungal diseases.
Despite winter hardiness, in the first years of life all of the listed varieties of roses require shelter for the winter. More mature shrubs can simply be pressed to the ground for the winter so that they are covered with snow.
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The first roses appeared on my plot about thirty years ago. What have I done with them? I covered them for the winter, arranging entire structures over them, but they constantly died, and everything started all over again. Then I got tired of it, and for some time I gave up the idea of growing roses.
Everything changed a few years ago when I found winter-hardy seedlings in one of the nurseries in Serbia. Their roses, grafted onto special rose hips, tolerate Siberian frosts well.
Of course, roses take cuttings well. You can always remove the cutting and plant it in the ground. In a week it will give roots, and exactly the same bush will grow next to you. But at the same time, it is important to remember that a rooted rose, no matter how you cover it, will not withstand Siberian frosts. And roses that grow on their own roots must be dug up and taken to the basement for the winter. To avoid unnecessary waste of energy and time, I buy 2-3-year-old seedlings grafted onto a winter-hardy rootstock.
Now I have a real rose garden. There are hybrid tea varieties, mini roses, floribundas, climbing roses, ground cover and grandifloras. Some of the most beloved climbing roses are Don Juan and Polka, ground cover roses Swaney, Scarlet, Fairy and Concerto. Floribunda roses - Freesia, Goldie and Samba, mini roses - Orange Jewel and Mini Yellow, grandiflora Angela, Fontaine and Lucia feel great. Of course, I cannot list all the varieties, because I have more than 30 of them.
Now the only roses I take to the basement for the winter are standard roses. It is difficult to cover them, they are very tall, I grow them in flowerpots. I am gradually preparing the remaining roses for winter. At the end of summer, I do not prune faded flowers, since their removal can cause unwanted shoot growth in the autumn. In August, I feed roses with a solution of potassium monophosphate to strengthen the root system and allow the plant to prepare for winter. I rarely water. On all growing shoots I pinch the growing point.
In October, when persistent frosts begin, I cover the roses. Winter in Siberia is harsh, but even if frost sets in, there are practically no thaws. This has its advantages, because in fact, roses rarely freeze out, most often they dry out, so they overwinter well under a good dry shelter, and in early spring they should not be late to open, so that they are under a layer of water as little as possible.
I do not prune climbing and ground cover roses., I pin the shoots to the soil, having previously laid them on spruce branches. The top can be covered with peat, humus or just soil, the most important thing is that it is dry. I do not recommend using sawdust and leaves as covering material, as they can be a source of various infections. It is best to install arcs made of wire (they should extend 20 cm above the plants), lay any insulating material on them (cardboard, bitumen-impregnated paper in several layers, etc.), and attach plastic film on top. In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, the roses remain dry. 
In spring I open roses gradually. I cut hybrid tea roses, floribunda and grandiflora, leave 10-15 cm from the ground, and cover them in the same way as described above. Grandiflora roses overwinter best; I don’t always trim them, I just pin them to the ground and cover them with spruce branches. I spray it with some copper-containing drug against fungal diseases. I add Narcissus to the fungicide; this drug is a good growth stimulator and additionally protects against pests and diseases. To avoid spring burns, immediately after removing the cover and processing, I throw on a non-woven covering material for a while.
Planting roses in raised beds. In spring, in such beds the soil warms up faster and the water does not stagnate. Since a rose grows in one place for 25 years, you need to take care of soil fertility in advance. In order for the plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need enough nutrition, so I add a lot of humus or compost. When planting, it is necessary to deepen the root collar, i.e. grafting site, approximately 3-5 cm, since the strongest shoots grow from the graft, if the graft is not deepened, it may dry out and the plant will die.
Spider mites and aphids love roses very much. To rid the decoration of your garden from this scourge, it is enough to treat the bushes with an appropriate pesticide. If there is no rain (and the rose loves abundant watering), I pour a bucket of water under one bush at a time. And for roses to bloom beautifully, it would be good to feed them with fertilizer. So, roses are very fond of Aquarin, which contains all trace elements. During abundant flowering, I water with a solution containing 2 tbsp. spoons of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. I do this once every 10 days, until August.
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Rose varieties for Siberia
For difficult climatic conditions, only frost-resistant varieties that can withstand long periods with extremely low temperatures. Regular rose bushes simply won't survive until spring. In addition, due to the short summer, which lasts no more than two months, their growing season is shortened, which will not allow more heat-loving varieties to accumulate the necessary nutrients for wintering.
In addition to frost-resistant varieties, grafted roses are well suited for Siberian conditions. The most optimal rootstock for them is rosehip shoots, which have very good frost resistance.
The best varieties of roses for Siberia are:
- Hybrid tea variety "Burgundy".
- Winter-hardy climbing roses of Siberia: “Rosarium Uetersen”, “Ellse Krohn Superior”, “Amadeus”, “New Dawn”.
- Floribunda varieties: “Aspirin”, “Midsummer”, “Lions Rose”, “Leonardo da Vinci”.
- Ground cover varieties: “Bonica”, “Gartnerfreude”, “Ice Meidiland”, “Knirps”.
- Scrub varieties: “Bremer Stadtmuzikanten”, “Cinderella”, “Red Eden Rose”.
- Very beautiful roses varieties "Harkness", "Guillot" and "Ostinok" can tolerate Siberian climatic conditions. However, for this they require very careful attention. They need good shelter, special feeding, special care. That is why novice gardeners are not recommended to grow them.
Rules for planting roses in Siberia in spring
Proper planting of rose bushes is the key to their survival and good flowering:
- The Siberian climate has a very short summer, so the time to plant roses in Siberia is very limited and cannot be missed. The plant loves warm soil. The most optimal soil temperature for planting is +10⁰С. An indicator that the soil has warmed up sufficiently for planting roses is the beginning of dandelion flowering. As soon as this happens, you can begin disembarking. You can’t hesitate, otherwise the plant won’t be able to get strong enough for wintering.
- An important aspect for planting roses in Siberia is choosing a site for a rose garden. The most optimal areas are on a hill on the south side of the garden. The soil in such areas warms up better, which will allow plants to wake up from winter sleep earlier. This will increase the growing season, strengthening the plant before wintering. It is also necessary to take care of sheltering the rose garden from the north and west winds. A natural shelter can be the wall of a house or other building. However, when planning planting, the need for air circulation and sufficient lighting should be taken into account.
- Fertile soils with a high humus content and slightly increased acidity are suitable for growing roses in Siberia.
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the best varieties for the Urals and Siberia
The climbing rose can rightfully be called the queen of the garden, and with proper care and planting it will become the subject of your pride and the envy of your neighbors. It is magnificent in the decorative decoration of arches, trellises, arbors and other architectural forms.
Climbing roses are tall, climbing and tenacious plants that definitely need support. These roses can grow in the Urals and Siberia if they are carefully covered for the winter. We have selected the most frost-resistant varieties of climbing roses. Also, these varieties are resistant to diseases, bloom profusely and for a long time.
A large group of climbing roses is traditionally divided into two subgroups: ramblers and climbers. It is quite easy to distinguish them from each other. Here are five main differences:
✔ Escape. In clumbers they are hard, thick, and not very flexible, so the plants can withstand being formed into a bush and can grow without support. More suitable for planting near walls and fences. Ramblers, on the contrary, have flexible, rather thin shoots that easily twine around any support, and therefore serve as ideal plants for arches, pillars, pergolas and arbors.
✔ Bloom. Clumbers bloom twice per season on last year's branches and current year's shoots. Often one wave of flowering smoothly transitions into another. Ramblers bloom only on last year's branches, which accordingly means increased requirements for winter shelter. But flowering lasts several weeks and is abundant.
✔ Attitude to light. Clumbers tolerate light very well, but do not suffer at all in light partial shade. The south and north sides of a fence or house are not the best place to plant them. In the first case, flowering will be shorter, and in the second, weaker. The optimal landing location is west or east. Ramblers prefer full sun, but their roots must be in the shade because they do not tolerate overheating. This can be solved by planting low plants, mulching the tree trunk, or planting in the shade with shoots exposed to full sun.
✔ Growth rate. Clumbers tend to grow slower than ramlers.
✔ Trimming. Clumbers need to be pruned several times a year, in spring, summer and autumn, and it is also advisable to remove faded clusters to stimulate flowering. Pruning ramblers is very simple - once a year, after flowering, usually in late summer.
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The choice of variety must be conscious
Before you start breeding roses, you should get acquainted with the varieties. Don't rush into purchasing. After all, you can purchase seedlings via the Internet, and this greatly expands the range and makes it possible to make a good choice. Study the varieties, chat with rose growers on forums, read relevant blogs. Through live communication with flower growers, you can learn a lot of valuable information. Beginners don’t even always know what requirements plants must meet.
Often, in photographs in store catalogs, only the flower is visible. Its smell, the shape of the bush, capriciousness in care or unpretentiousness - all this is very important. How long does the flowering last, how friendly is it, do the flowers fade, what do they look like after flowering? Such information is not always available from the seller.
If shown in the photo single flower, but the entire bush is not shown, this may mean that the plant does not bloom profusely or the bush is not able to boast a decorative form.
Amateur gardeners who are just starting to master this plant always have many questions at first, for example: “Is it possible to grow roses in Siberia in open ground? It's certainly possible. And this is not at all as difficult as it might seem at first glance. The territory is huge, but severe frosts occur everywhere. 
Difficulties in growing roses in harsh climates
Beginners can be advised to pay attention to cold-resistant varieties. But growing roses in Siberia in a greenhouse is possible even in the most northern regions.
In order for the undertaking to be crowned with success, and for the noble plant to bestow lush flowering, you need to know and follow some rules. If you master them, and they are not at all difficult, then planting roses in Siberia will not disappoint, and perhaps even become a favorite hobby. The start and end dates of gardening work are related to the ambient temperature and the degree of warming of the earth. Since in last years the climate is unstable, this adds new questions about caring for a delicate flower.
For the most part, they all agree on determining the timing of planting, taking care of a safe wintering, proper fertilizer to ensure long and abundant flowering, and in the fight against diseases. As for varieties such as Rambler or Clymer, which are fairly common, unpretentious climbing roses that are well mastered by gardeners, planting and caring for these species in Siberia is not difficult. However, their cultivation is accompanied by other pleasant concerns, such as arranging them in the landscape.
Where to plant
They are photophilous. Planting roses in Siberia in the fall should be carried out taking this feature into account. By the way, it has been noticed that if the bushes are provided proper care- watering, fertilizing, etc., then they feel great and bloom even in partial shade. 
If you want to decorate the wall of your home with plants, then roses are not the best choice. There is a high risk of unwanted temperature changes near your home. On one side there is the cold air of the street, on the other there is the warm wall of the house. Snow melting or drifts and icing during thaw periods are likely. Such contrasts are detrimental to delicate plants. Even good lighting on the southern wall may not save the situation. You shouldn't plant roses near walls at all. A well-lit place with partial shade in the center or on the outskirts of the site will be more comfortable for them. If you really want to decorate your house, then plant bushes at a distance of at least a meter from the southern wall.
Soil preparation
Dig a hole approximately 40x40x40 cm, put complex fertilizer on the bottom. Roses are very sensitive to soil quality. If it is clay, fluff it up by adding sand, wood ash, humus, a little peat and leaf soil. If the soil is mostly sandy, then manure, humus and leaf soil. These components will make it quite nutritious and moderately heavier.
Planting roses in Siberia is not a tricky business, and if you have a plant grown not on a rootstock, but with its own roots, then you don’t have to worry that in the spring, instead of a cultivated variety, you will have a well-wintered wild rose bush on your plot. Try to choose your own root varieties, and in any case, deepen the root collar by at least 5 cm. Deepening it further is also not recommended, since the rose will send out new roots from the grafting site, and it will grow much weaker on the roots of the scion.
Half or a third of the prepared soil mixture should be placed at the bottom of the hole, under the roots. Then you should thoroughly moisten the substrate by pouring water into the hole. Before planting, powder the roots with ash and place them carefully and evenly in the hole. Pour the remaining soil onto the roots from above, trying to compact them well so that there are no large voids left between them. Water thoroughly again.
How to save seedlings?
Autumn is more suitable for planting and replanting adult roses. Planting and care in Siberia in the spring is the best time for plants obtained from cuttings, as well as for roses sent by mail and overwintered in a cold room at home.
You can begin gardening work immediately after the snow melts, when the shovel easily goes into the ground. This usually happens in April. Old bushes can be replanted in the spring, but this is less advisable than in the fall - long-term adaptation to a new place can negatively affect flowering, and you will think that the bush has degenerated or the place has been chosen inappropriately. But cuttings in the spring always work out perfectly. Prepare branches in the fall. Cut long shoots, bring them home and disinfect them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Store them in the basement in a box with sand. If you don’t have a basement, put it in the refrigerator, in the fresh vegetable compartment. To prevent the shoots from drying out, wrap them in a damp cloth and then in plastic. In spring they will be fresh and green.
Propagation by cuttings
In April, when the snow melts, remove the thin upper parts of the shoots, cut the branches into 10-15 cm cuttings with buds on each, soak for a day in water with potassium permanganate and you can plant. To get a guaranteed result, use Kornevin.
To prevent spring frosts from destroying the plants, plant them in a sunny, wind-protected place with loose, fertile soil. Cover each cutting with a plastic bottle: cut off the bottom, and use the top with a lid as a mini-greenhouse. Make sure the soil is constantly moist. After a month, you can begin to ventilate the greenhouse bottles by briefly removing the lids. By doing this you will gradually accustom the plants to the natural atmosphere. Do this very carefully. Root formation requires warmth, constant temperature, high humidity and lack of movement. Having become accustomed to such conditions and finding itself in the fresh air, a pampered plant may not be able to cope with the complex adaptation and die. 
It is believed that the appearance of the first leaves indicates that rooting has taken place. Don't rush to rejoice. You can remove the bottles completely only after a couple of months. In addition, all this year you will have to carefully take care of young plants - shade them from the scorching sun, fertilize them, prevent the soil from drying out or stagnant water, and protect them from freezing.
Are there winter-hardy climbing roses? Planting and caring for many varieties of ramblers and climbing plants in Siberia does not cause any particular difficulties, since they are characterized as unpretentious and winter-hardy. If you are a beginner, then choose a native root variety grown at a local nursery.
Ramblers
It must be said that growing roses in Siberia from cuttings works best with ramblers. The varieties that have proven themselves most well in harsh climates are Dorothy Perkins, Bobby James and Excelsa. Cuttings can be practiced throughout the summer. For cuttings, branches are collected from the third quarter of the lash - the one closer to the end. Sticks are cut to the size of a pencil. Rooting in a greenhouse occurs within a month.
Ramblers are very convenient plants for decorating small areas. Their lashes grow up to five meters, they are very flexible and plastic. They are twisted around the support clockwise, trying to ensure that the branch lies horizontally. This technique stimulates the growth of new flowering shoots of the rose. Planting and caring for the Rambler variety in Siberia is suitable for beginner gardeners. Its flowers are small, double, collected in lush inflorescences, which very densely cover the entire bush. The flowering, although one-time, is very abundant, lasting almost a whole month. To make flowers decorate your garden longer, stop fertilizing at the beginning of flowering and keep the soil under the bush moist.
Variety with fragrant flowers
Many gardeners value musk roses very much. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia will be successful if you choose a place for them with loose neutral soil, well protected from cold winds and sufficiently lit. Traditional musk roses exude strong aroma amber. It comes not from the petals, as is the case with other varieties, but from the stamens, so even withered flowers continue to smell fragrant. However, they do not always have such a strong aroma. Many hybrids are more decorative than older varieties, but are odorless. Musk roses produce flexible lashes up to 2.5 meters long. This allows you to use them to decorate gazebos and arches. The best varieties- “Mozart” and “ballerina”.
Miniature climbing rose
Another charming example of climbing roses is the pirouette variety. Since its branches do not grow more than one and a half meters, it is often planted as a shrub - a single bush. Small flowers of a slightly apricot hue are collected in brushes. They open very amicably and so abundantly that you can’t see the foliage behind them. Flowering is long lasting. The aroma is delicate, pleasant, sweet, although weak. “Pirouette” practically does not suffer from powdery mildew and black spot, which often plague roses. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia is also convenient because it is cold-resistant. A little cover, however, is still necessary. 
Climbers
These are, one might say, monumental climbing roses. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia can be complicated by difficulties with shelter. Compared to ramblers, whose lashes reach five meters in length, climbers are just tiny. Their shoots do not outgrow the 2-meter mark. However, they are very thick and do not bend as easily as miniature ramblers. It is very difficult to twist such a shoot around a pillar or arch. If you send a branch vertically upward, it will bloom only at the upper end. Flowers are formed very abundantly if the branch is located horizontally. In the flower garden they are fanned out on fences and trellises. This stimulates the growth of new flowering shoots. If you want your roses to bloom as long as possible, then stop fertilizing once the buds are set, and water them daily in dry weather. And the climbers bloom luxuriously! Large fragrant flowers adorn the bush for almost a whole month, and for remontant flowers - twice a season. The best varieties are “Elf”, “Rosanna”, “Pink Cloud” and “Pierre de Ronsard”.
Shelter for the winter
How to preserve roses in Siberia in winter? Planting and care, watering and weeding, fertilizing and pest control - everything that you did in spring, summer and autumn may be in vain, and next year you will have to start all over again, including the search for a good reliable bush if your bush is damaged freezing. 
Cover roses after the first frost, on a dry day. This is important because covering wet bushes will create an unfavorable microclimate and the development of fungal infections. The shoots are removed from the supports and carefully laid out on the ground. If you bend down the thick branches of the climber, use a fork to dig up the ground. This will make it easier to roll up the bush. There is no need to spread it very low on the ground. Let it rise a little. Your goal is to dress the plants in a fur coat. Proven to perform very well in harsh winter conditions nonwovens like lutrasil. Take the thickest one and fold it in several layers. The bushes should be covered with a continuous blanket, and not with separate fragments. Press along the perimeter with bricks.
Opening
Where does growing of roses begin in Siberia? Spring is the time when they buy new bushes and open old ones. The cover should be removed in several stages. First they ventilate, then open it slightly, increasing the time, and finally remove it completely. This is done in order to accustom the flowers to new conditions. Having removed the covering material, inspect the lashes and cut off damaged or dead ones to healthy tissue. At this time, it is very convenient to loosen the soil around the rose and select the roots of the weeds. 
Fertilizers
Do roses in Siberia require any special feeding? Planting and care in this region is somewhat more labor intensive than in Europe, but this is only due to protection from freezing in winter. Otherwise everything is the same. In spring plants need a large number of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Roses are very dependent on the microbiological composition of the soil and are sensitive to the lack of one or another element. As for acidity, slightly acidic (pH 5.6) will be just right for them. From mid-July, nitrogen fertilizing, which enhances shoot growth, should be stopped. Otherwise, by winter there will be many young, fragile shoots on the bushes that will not withstand the difficult winter - the affected tissue of the young shoots will become a breeding ground for infections, which can provoke the death of the entire plant.
If it is possible to feed the rose with manure, then do it in the spring, and it will repay you with excellent growth and flowering. Rotted manure and mullein - best fertilizers for roses Manure is a nitrogen supplier, and essential potassium and phosphorus is in wood ash. In addition, for proper growth and development, plants need calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese and copper. Therefore, do not neglect complex mineral fertilizers.
Diseases and pests
It's time to find out what ails roses. Planting and caring for these delicate plants in Siberia is not very difficult, but the harsh climate weakens the immune properties of roses, and they can begin to get sick. The most common diseases of climbing roses are black spot and powdery mildew. 
Black spot
This problem is not as terrible as it seems, although it greatly spoils the appearance of the bushes. Occurs most often in the second half of summer. The leaves become covered with black spots, then turn yellow and fall off. It starts from the bottom of the bush and gradually rises up. In severe cases, it leads to complete loss of all foliage. At the onset of the disease, it is enough to tear off the affected leaves and burn them, and spray the bush with a weak solution of mullein (for one part of mullein - 20 parts of water). Two or three procedures are enough. If you cannot find mullein, buy medications containing penconazole, triazole or mancozeb from the store. It could be “Topaz”, “Profit”, “Skor” or “Ridomil Gold”. 
Powdery mildew
The disease most often affects roses growing in a greenhouse. In climbing roses, it occurs as a result of damping off as a result of too much watering in cool weather. Affects young parts. They are covered with a white powdery coating. Spraying bushes with infusion wood ash in this case it is very effective. First you need to remove the affected leaves, buds and shoots, cutting them back to healthy tissue. All this must be burned so that the pathogenic microflora does not resume activity. Cleaned bushes should be sprayed with a solution of ash, and after two hours, rinse it off with clean water. In case of severe damage, drugs containing triazole are used - “Skor” and “Topaz”.
How to grow blue roses Small rose flowers Rose from a bouquet cutting at home
The Siberian expanses belong to the zone of risky agriculture, and not every Siberian gardener decides to start a rose garden on his plot. However, growing roses is possible even in harsh climates. About how to choose suitable variety climbing roses for growing in Siberia, will be discussed in the article.
Climatic conditions of Siberia and growing roses
Siberia is a vast territory, including several climatic zones. But the only zone where growing roses in open ground is impossible is the northern regions, located in the subarctic zone. Other areas allow this possibility, although they have their own characteristics:
- Western Siberia. Extends from the Ural Mountains to the Yenisei. The climate is temperate continental. In summer, winds blowing from the north and east dominate here, and the influence of Arctic cyclones is often felt. The average temperature in the summer months is about +20 0 C. In winter, southern and southwestern winds prevail, bringing clear frosty weather. The air temperature can drop below -35 0 C. The snow cover is abundant and stable (Read also article ⇒).
- Eastern Siberia. The territory includes Trans-Baikal, Krasnoyarsk territories, Buryatia, Irkutsk region, the Republic of Tuva and Yakutia. The climate is harsh, sharply continental. Winter temperatures range from -18 to -50 0 C. In summer, the average is +17 0 C.
- Southern Siberia. Includes regions adjacent to the mountain ranges of Asia. Climatic conditions are characterized by contrast. Summer here is short, but warm and even hot, winter is frosty, with heavy snowfalls.
Thus, the conditions for growing roses in Siberia vary depending on the specific region. In addition, the wide variety of soils in this area must be taken into account. Here they can be swampy, frozen-taiga, soddy, soddy-podzolic. In a number of regions there are chernozems and meadow-chernozem soils, which are most favorable for growing roses.
Tip #1. Due to the wide variety of climatic and soil conditions in Siberia, recommendations for varieties of climbing roses are general and rather conditional. When buying a seedling, you need to focus more on your own plot.
Requirements for climbing roses for growing in Siberia
In order for a rose to form a climbing form, it is necessary that its shoots are well preserved in winter along their entire length. This is the main difficulty in growing roses in Siberia. In addition to high frost resistance, varieties of Siberian climbing roses must have the following characteristics:
- ability to quickly grow shoots and restore vegetative mass;
- good immunity to fungal diseases;
- early flowering;
- the ability of a flower to withstand negative weather conditions (rain and wind).
It is very important that the seedling is grafted onto a frost-resistant rootstock. Growing your own roses in Siberia is not recommended.
Tip #2. The experience of Siberian rose growers shows that in this region it is better to purchase seedlings from local nurseries. As a rule, the roses in them are grafted onto local rootstocks, which makes the plants better adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of the area.
Review of varieties of climbing roses for growing in Siberia
Rose varieties of Canadian selection meet the above requirements to a greater extent, since Canadian conditions are similar to Siberian ones. The main efforts of breeders in developing these varieties were aimed precisely at increasing the endurance of plants without loss of decorativeness.
The following varieties of climbing roses can be considered suitable for the Siberian climate:
| Variety name | Characteristic | Advantages and disadvantages |
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Rose of the Explorer series with bright pink, almost crimson double flowers with a diameter of 6-7 cm. Blooms in large clusters, 5-10 pieces each. Flowering duration is up to 7 weeks. In Siberia it is capable of growing lashes up to 2 meters long. |
Pros:
· very high winter hardiness; · abundant long-lasting flowering; · high resistance to powdery mildew and good resistance to black spot; Minuses: · average growth energy. |
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An Explorer series rose with stunning soft pink flowers in an antique shape. Flower diameter is up to 8 cm, blooms in clusters of 5-10 flowers. The aroma is not strong, but expressive. The shoots have short internodes and good flexibility, which allows the variety to be used as ramblers. |
Pros:
· excellent winter hardiness; · good climbing potential. Minuses:
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A new variety from the Canadian Artists series that can be used as a climbing rose or a tall scrub rose. The flowers are pink, semi-double, with a wonderful aroma, 10 cm in diameter. Flowering in clusters of 3-7 pieces. |
Pros:
· exceptional winter hardiness, allowing you to grow roses without shelter for the winter; · abundant continuous flowering all summer long; · excellent resistance to fungal infections; · good flower resistance to rain. Minuses:
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A low climbing rose suitable for forming hedges. Reaches 1.8 meters in height. The flowers are densely double, dark red, collected in small brushes of 3-4 pieces. The diameter of each flower is 8 cm, the aroma is light. |
Pros:
· excellent winter hardiness; · abundant re-blooming; · good resistance to fungal infections; · high growth energy. Minuses:
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Explorer series rose, suitable for growing with a scrub or a low vine. Reaches a height of 1.5 meters. It has a beautiful double lemon-yellow flower with a diameter of up to 8 cm. Flowering in clusters of 5-8 pieces. |
Pros:
· excellent winter hardiness; · abundant re-blooming; · good resistance to fungal infections; · good flower resistance to bad weather; · weakly thorny shoots. Minuses: · short life span of each flower. |
All listed varieties of roses are recommended forIV zonesUSDA, except for the new Felix Leclerc, which can grow without shelter even inIII zone. The growth energy of these climbing roses varies depending on the air temperature. In warm summers they give very good growth, but in cool summers they can “slow down”. However, these varieties are capable of demonstrating very high decorative value in Siberian conditions.
Reviews from rose growers about climbing roses in Siberia
Rose growers of Siberia, not spoiled by an unlimited assortment of varieties, with great love apply to each established plant. Their reviews of the listed varieties are mostly positive:
“The four J.P. Connell bushes from the 2012 planting are alive and relatively healthy. The first flowering is powerful! In June they are almost completely covered with flowers, like a blanket. The second wave is weak - individual flowers on the tops. Each flower is beautiful both in half-bloom and in full. The flowers last a short time, only a couple of days, so you have to cut off the faded ones every day. There are no thorns, the bushes are easy to care for. In damp summers they catch black spot.”(Nina, Krasnoyarsk).
“My opinion about Quadra is purely positive. The bush is tall, I didn’t measure it with a tape measure, but I tied it up while standing on a stepladder. The flowering is showery and magnificent. The brushes are heavy and huge, but each individual flower is very beautiful - up to 11 cm, lasts a long time, does not fade at all and does not lose shape even when flowering. Flowering is almost continuous. my
Quadra is already 5 years old, but has never been ill with anything. Care is easy, I only do sanitary pruning. I feed it well, and in August I definitely give it potassium so that it winters well. For the winter I leave it in a vertical position, simply covering it with two layers of thick spunbond. There were no problems with wintering"(Tatiana, Yekaterinburg).
“John Davis is growing slowly but diligently in my Tomsk region. It’s noticeable that it doesn’t get enough sun, but it doesn’t freeze in winter. For the winter I send it under a purely symbolic film shelter and throw a good snowdrift on top. Winters well, doesn’t get sick"(Svetlana, Tomsk).
“John Cabot is a wonderful, very abundant rose. It overwinters with me without shelter, under hillocks and snow. Frost -27 0 C is easily tolerated. In 5 years I have never been sick. The downside is that the flowers are not very expressive. But overall they look good."(Olga, Biysk).
The main purpose of climbing roses is vertical gardening. In this regard, the issue of correct garter lashes is relevant. David Gerald Hession, a world-renowned botanist, recommends doing it this way in his book All About Roses:
“The main shoots of climbing roses are directed along the support. Young stems should be tied to the fence with wire wrapped in plastic, rather than wrapped around the wire from which the fence is made. It should be tied loosely so that the stems do not get damaged as they grow in thickness.”
Current questions about climbing roses in Siberia
Question No. 1. When is it better to plant climbing roses in Siberia - in spring or autumn.
Winter comes early in Siberia, so it is better to plant climbing rose seedlings in the spring to give them time to take root.
I have been growing roses in the garden since 2007, when I purchased it.
My passion for these royal plants began with a few rose seedlings bought at the market.
Three bushes of the hybrid tea rose variety “Burgund” from the market still grow in our garden and bloom consistently every year. I usually don’t cover them for the winter; I'm just making bushes sanitary pruning and I cover them with dry soil from greenhouses when the soil is already slightly frozen.
True, last snowless winter I covered the pruned Burgundy rose bushes with spruce branches.
"Burgundy" is an old reliable variety that is famous for its large, dark red, beautifully shaped double roses. Velvety and very fragrant flowers stable, opening from pointed buds on thick, durable peduncles. The large dark green (young reddish-brown) leaves covering the dense, upright bush are also beautiful.
I tried to buy the rest of the roses for the garden through our Center for Natural Farming "Shine", mostly high-quality seedlings from German nurseries.
Experiments with rose seedlings of different groups
We still don’t have enough experience in reliably covering roses in Siberian conditions. We are trying to replace the spruce branches with dry shelter. Time and experiments will show which method of wintering roses will be the best for the conditions of our garden.
It seems to me that, regardless of the method of shelter, ultimately the success of wintering roses depends on the abundance of snow and the duration of severe frosts.
We saved our roses in any winter, there was never a 100% loss. And many of our country neighbors refused to grow roses in their gardens precisely because of the poor wintering of the bushes.
Wintering rooted rose cuttings in the house and garden
The summer before last I tried (varieties “Bonica”, “Aspirin”); The cuttings have taken root well.
The first winter I had to keep the rooted cuttings on the windowsill. And last spring (2012) I planted young roses in the garden, where they bloomed well.
Now I’m worried about how these plants survived the last winter (2012-2013) on their own roots...
If my rose cuttings have successfully overwintered, I will give extra seedlings to my neighbors!
Olga Nikolaevna Plotnikova (Novosibirsk)