The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengeroth in an article with the expressive title "Plant trees in autumn or spring?" made some interesting arguments on the subject.
wise thought
"Autumn planting succeeds the better, the sooner it can be done."confusing case
“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preponderance is in the direction of spring planting, and not autumn.
Although autumn planting cannot be considered impossible either ... A tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when during the summer the grown shoots have fully grown and matured, i.e. from September to October (the further south, the earlier you can start transplant; for example, in the Saratov province, you can start at the end of August); in the spring, now, as the earth has thawed, - until the buds begin to bloom.
The information is correct, but it is not yet clear: autumn or spring? However, the author goes on to talk about his experience "in the Baltic region and other northern provinces."
Autumn wins
“Having been gardening and planting trees for over 25 years… I have stuck to this: I have always given preference to autumn planting, except when it was necessary to plant on extremely clay, wet soil. If planting is done in early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, but the sap movement in it has not completely stopped, then it will have time to give young roots before the onset of frost, as well as partly root cuts. swim. Such a tree will winter well and next spring will quickly grow. The later the transplant is made, the less the tree has time to take root and is slowly accepted in the spring, and sometimes in the winter from severe frosts part dies. At planted in autumn trees, it is necessary to cut the leaves so that they do not evaporate the reserve moisture, since the perception nutrients before the appearance of new roots stops.
True, in very cold areas and on damp cold soils, it should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, subsoil water can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on moist soil, spring planting has its bad sides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then from summer heat the soil soon dries up, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly accepted.
Confirmation from the Volga region
“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely perish in the very first winter.
I did not believe this, and when, finally, in the autumn of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... To finally resolve the controversial issue, I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I wrapped them in dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops with a thin layer, and - handed over to the power of winter. In one garden, all the trees began to grow, in the other, 2 apple trees and 2 pears died.
And in the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared before his eyes: “They represented healthy look about 50% of apple trees and the same number of pears, about 10% of apple trees and 50% of pears died, and the rest of the apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable.
According to the journal "Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture"
* in the article we are talking only about seedlings with an open root system
Personal experience
Get your sleigh ready in summer
Frost on bare ground is a nightmare for many summer residents. Especially for those who can visit their garden only on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!
Since during the time of gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting frost without snow with useless moans and throwings, then in Lately made it a rule to prepare for a possible cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.
Firstly, plants that will have to be covered for the winter are best prepared for this early, even if the aesthetics of the garden suffer from this. For example, bend down and lightly sprinkle with earth large-leaved hydrangeas, lay climbing and shrub roses until their branches are brittle from the cold. It doesn't hurt to throw nonwoven fabric: in the absence of snow from frost, of course, it will not save, but it will help to “soften the blow” with a sharp drop in temperature.
Secondly, be sure to mulch the tree trunks of heat-loving trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of "sour", for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, coniferous litter, sawdust. For others - compost, mowed grass, fallen leaves. This can be done back in September or October, without rushing and without arranging rush jobs for yourself on the eve of severe frosts. In addition, I mulch the soil in flower beds with perennials. In the event of a sharp cold snap, the wet earth literally "explodes", which often leads to damage to the root system. A thick layer of mulch will save you from this trouble.
Thirdly, it is worth preparing a “strategic reserve” of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak is best, but in the absence of such, you can use any that is at hand. I usually carve out half an hour, rake the leaves under the nearest trees and collect them in big garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as a heater instead of snow.
S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region
Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact, you can do a lot of trouble, so today we remind you of a few important rules, following which will allow you to avoid typical autumn mistakes.
AUTUMN PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS
FIRST RULE: NOT EVERYTHING SHOULD BE PLANTED IN AUTUMN
Bare-root trees should not be planted in autumn if one of the following applies to the seedling:
- this plant by virtue of its biological features does not tolerate transplant;
- this variety or species of plants has a problem with winter hardiness in our climate;
- this tree was grown in a different climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.
In the first case, it is primarily about deciduous trees with a taproot and slightly branched root system - birches, oaks, chestnuts, nuts, velvets, and so on, as well as such shrubs as hawthorn. A transplant with bare roots is very poorly tolerated by all conifers, except for larch.
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As for winter hardiness, such trees as chestnuts and almost all fruit trees fall into the risk zone here, with the possible exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties of apple trees. And finally, we do not recommend planting any species and varieties of trees just brought from Europe in the fall with bare roots. A plant that has lost a significant part of its roots may not be able to overpower the reconfiguration to other biological rhythms.
Container plants - whether trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - can be planted in autumn. There is only one “but”: if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the volume offered by it and have begun to twist in rings, the plant may not take root well. Roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function on full power, therefore it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.
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Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth are transplanted in the fall in the same way as container ones. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it shook, the earth crumbled, you are actually dealing with bare roots, only powdered with soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all cases listed above for such a situation.
In general, the lump must be handled with extreme care, trying not to injure it once again. If a lump is packed in a mesh (metal or filament) or in burlap, in no case try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made from materials that decompose in the ground and will not harm the growth of roots at all.
SECOND RULE: ONLY THAT IS NO LONGER GROWING TO PLANT
When planting in the fall, you need to make sure that the growth of the selected plants is over for this season. Active vegetation is completed if the apical buds are formed, and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise, when the tree goes into winter before the end of the growing season, it will definitely freeze.
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You need to be especially careful when buying imported plants, as well as if the summer turned out to be very dry, and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new area. And in dry years, a stormy vegetation often begins very late, only with August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees by the beginning of the planting season that are completely unprepared for wintering.
RULE THREE: DON'T LATE YOUR PLANTING DATES
It is believed that in our climatic zone, it is better to plant trees and shrubs with an open root system before October 10, because the seedlings still have to have a margin of time to put up young roots in a new place.
If the tree has time to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, its root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive all the winter hardships much easier. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are hard to take root (see the first rule).
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Of course, the dates of landings can be slightly shifted depending on the specific weather conditions. So, in the abnormally warm winter that once fell to us, enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too big audacity.
Again, when we talk about October 10, we are referring to plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants was simply not carried out in Russia, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the latest era of the onset of imports. But we believe that it is not worth moving away from October 10 with containers too far.
RULE 4: DON'T OVERDO FERTILIZER
This is a very important condition for a successful autumn planting. In autumn, only phosphate fertilizer. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for the plant in high concentrations.
Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentrations (and when fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration of them) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives can be detrimental to the transplanted plant.
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Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in the fall should be added for planting in any case. They can be made in advance, in the spring, for general soil preparation.
The only thing that can still support a newly planted plant is root formation stimulants: root and humates. The preparations are diluted with water and applied during irrigation in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.
RULE FIVE: LANDINGS NEED PROTECTION
When planting in the fall, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the bole from sunburn, mice and hares, installation of supports and protection of the crown from snowfall.
Mulching with all kinds organic materials- peat, crushed bark, sawdust, straw - saves the roots from frost and helps retain moisture in the soil.
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After warming the roots, think about the fight against mice. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will attract them very much. Be sure to protect the fruit, as well as decorative varieties apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise in general to provide all newly planted trees with protection, if such an opportunity exists. I have seen, for example, how mice gnawed at the cambium even on ash and Chinese poplars.
Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - this is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is put on the trunk. If you have a problem with hares on the site, a similar protection against hares must also be purchased. To learn more, read the article How to protect your garden from rodents in winter and watch the video An easy way to protect trees from rodents.
But from sunburn, the tree should be saved with the help of whitewashing. Best to use water-based paint, preferably a special garden. If the whitewash does not include a fungicide, it would be nice to add it - this will simultaneously protect the tree from pests. At the end of February, the whitewash does not hurt to renew if the autumn rains washed it away.
A tie to the support of a tree planted before winter (however, like a tree planted in spring) is a must! In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting in motion root system- in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are enough; mature plant needs a stretch system.
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And finally, do not forget to protect the crown from a snowbreaker by tying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape - for all those whose branches depart from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice it is relevant for conifers with a similar crown shape - junipers, thujas, cypresses. Shrubs also do not hurt to protect from snowfall.
Good luck landing!
The topic of today's article is planting seedlings in the fall. There are not so many worries in the garden in autumn compared to spring. Almost all vegetables have been removed from the beds, leaving mostly only cabbage. In order for the seedlings to yield a crop, it is necessary to properly prepare both the planting material and the pits in which they will grow.
Apple tree seedlings, as well as pears, plums and other fruit trees, are recommended to be bought only in nurseries or garden centers. Below on the stem of each grafted seedling, you can see a characteristic thickening on a slight bend. This is the place of inoculation. Most often, the vaccination is done 10-15 cm above the root collar, but sometimes it can be very close to it. It's not scary, the tree will still give a harvest.
If seedlings are purchased on the roadsides or from people selling somewhere in the markets, one cannot be completely sure that these seedlings have been grafted. Very often, the trunks of such trees look absolutely even, without any thickening. Often, these vendors simply dig up wild-growing saplings or grow them without the necessary vaccinations. As a result, you can not expect a harvest from such fruit trees - it will not happen. But it is important not only to buy seedlings in right place, it is important that they are all of good quality.
When to plant trees in autumn
Despite the fact that in autumn the weather is already colder than in spring, it is recommended to plant seedlings of fruit trees at this time. Trees are at rest in autumn, and all their physiological processes are suspended, therefore, the survival rate of seedlings planted in autumn is an order of magnitude higher than that of trees planted in spring.
Usually, planting begins during leaf fall, but best moment for this, the time is considered when the leaves all fall off. V middle lane leaf fall begins around mid-September.
It is not worth postponing tree planting until the end of autumn, so this event should be completed approximately in mid-late October. Otherwise, the seedlings may no longer have time to take root.
In the southern regions, autumn planting is carried out until mid-November, in the northern regions - during September.
But our weather is far from constant, and every year the landing dates may vary somewhat.
What trees can be planted in autumn
Experts in the field of gardening confidently say that almost all types of fruit trees can be planted in autumn:
- apple trees
- pears
- mountain ash
- cherry plum
- cherry
- plums
- viburnum
- peach
There is disagreement about peach and cherry. Some gardeners believe that these trees can also be planted before winter, others are categorically against the autumn planting of these crops.
Dear gardeners and gardeners! If you have experience in growing, and most importantly, planting these fruit trees in the fall, tell us about it. I think it will be useful for everyone to know.
For Siberia, the Urals and the Middle Strip, it is recommended to plant seedlings of the Ural and Siberian selection. They are quite winter-hardy, tolerate autumn planting well and winter well. It must be understood that plants brought from southern regions, most likely will not survive the harsh winters in more northern areas.
In any case, there is one for everyone important rule autumn planting: seedlings are planted no later than one month before the onset of frost.
Planting seedlings in autumn
Seedlings are planted in planting pits, which are dug about 2 months before planting. The diameter of the pit should be such that a clod of earth freely enters it. And their depth is usually dug from 70 cm to 1 m, depending on the culture.
Upper layer the soil that you will take out must be folded separately. It is useful for falling asleep a seedling in a hole. At the bottom of the pit, peat, humus or rotted manure is poured. All this is mixed with fertile soil, which was folded separately.
Then the pit is spilled with water and, having allowed the earth to soak with it, a tree is planted. After that, the seedling is sprinkled with earth and well tamped. Otherwise, voids form between the roots of the plant and the soil, and it will be difficult for the tree to take root. After planting, you need to carry out another watering.
There is an opinion that around the planting pit, when the seedling is already sitting in place, you need to make a small groove for watering the plant. But many experienced gardeners doubt its usefulness. On the contrary, water will always accumulate in this groove, and snow in winter, and the trunk young plant may start to rot.
If you rarely visit the country house and are afraid that the soil will dry out a lot and a hard crust will form on it, you can mulch the stem circle of the seedling, which I do for my trees and shrubs. Mulching is a great way to keep moisture in the soil.
Autumn is a fertile time for a gardener - it is still warm, but there is no summer heat and, if there is no rain, much can be done in the garden, which was not possible in summer. One such important event is planting trees in the fall.
In the middle lane, autumn planting of trees, both fruit and ornamental, is successful, since the natural conditions at this time are favorable for plant transplantation.
1. Outflow of nutrients from branches to roots. Roots grow and leaves fall.
2. There is a lot of moisture in the soil, which is necessary for plant growth.
3. Soil still for a long time stays warm. Its temperature allows the roots to grow for a long time.
As a result, the seedlings have time to take root and safely overwinter, and in the spring to start the growing season on time, without wasting time on taking root.
A few more points to the plus of the autumn planting of trees and shrubs.
- Big choice planting material on the market. In the spring they sell the leftovers from the autumn trade.
- Availability of free time at the gardener. The autumn planting period is longer than the spring one.
How to choose a seedling
Criteria for choosing a seedling: the more powerful the roots (number, length, fibrous) and the smaller the upper part of the plant, the greater the likelihood of its successful establishment and further growth
- If we plant plants with ACS (open root system), it is advisable to choose 1-2 year old seedlings. They are easier to dig out without damaging the root system.
- We make sure that the roots are not cut off.
- The leaves are "buffed", i.e. removed. If left, they will draw moisture from the plant, drying it out.
- The wood is mature, not herbaceous, green
What is good to plant in the fall
Shrubs, by the way, in the vast majority need to be planted in the fall.
- Fruit bushes, such as honeysuckle, currants, gooseberries, are cold-resistant, take root well, and in the spring they start growing very early and you can simply not have time to plant them.
- And remontant raspberries are completely recommended to be planted in the most late dates- End of october.
- Planting shrubs and plants with a closed root system (growing in containers) can be extended until the first frost - they usually fall on the November holidays.
- Apple trees, especially those grafted onto clone rootstocks, tolerate autumn planting and subsequent overwintering well.
- Coniferous plants are transplanted in autumn
Cons of autumn planting
What are the disadvantages of autumn tree planting? So, about the cons.
1. They planted late and the seedling did not have time to take root and, as a result, did not survive the winter well.
2. You yourself need to take care of the safety of the trunk of the tree from the winter invasion of rodents.
How to avoid losses during autumn planting
- Firstly, we try to observe the calendar landing dates. In central Russia, digging up plants in nurseries according to technology should begin on September 20, after the start of leaf fall. By this time, the wood of the trunk and branches will already be ripe and ready for overwintering. Seedlings dug out earlier than this period will be with unfallen leaves and unripened wood and can be severely affected by frost.
In this way optimal time for autumn landing work will be from September 20 to mid - end of October
Apple trees on clonal rootstocks take root faster than on seed ones. This is due to the presence in clonal rootstocks of a greater number of small roots.
- Second, you need to know that different cultures rooted differently. Kostochkovs need more time for this than pome. And from the pome fruits, the pear takes more time to root than the apple tree.
Therefore, we plant a pear and all stone fruits (cherries, plums, sweet cherries, etc.) in early autumn, late plantings are not for them.
How to plant
Landing pits do the following:
- for apple and pear trees approximately 60x60x80 cm in size,
- cherries, plums, cherry plums, sweet cherries 40x40x60 cm,
- fruit bushes 40x40x40 cm.
The fertilizers that we will add are mixed with the entire volume of soil for the planting pit. And when planting to the roots of plants, we will pour the earth without fertilizers.
Falling asleep the roots, the soil is slightly compacted with our feet.
Do not add nitrogen to the planting pit! We'll add it in the spring.
An important point that you need to pay attention to when planting trees on seed stocks is where the root collar is located.
Rooting neck - the place of transition of the roots into the stem of the plant
How can it be easier to determine? In this place, the color of the bark changes: from greenish to brown.
The deepening of the root neck threatens to undermine and rot the bark and wood. Therefore, we carefully monitor that after watering and soil subsidence, the root neck of fruit and ornamental trees grafted onto the seed stock was at the level of the soil surface.
Only on light sandy soils is sometimes a slight deepening possible, somewhere by 5-7 cm.
Plants grafted onto vegetatively propagated (clonal) rootstocks can be planted deep down to the graft itself, leaving 5-7 cm to it.
Having planted trees, they must
- watered at the rate of 1-2 buckets per plant, if a shrub was planted, then 1 bucket can be used to water 2-3 plants;
- the soil around is mulched, and when taking into account the autumn planting, and especially if your soil is sandy, an additional layer of mulch is also covered with pieces of cardboard to reduce severe autumn-winter freezing;
- the stem of the planted tree must be protected from the winter invasion of hungry rodents. For this, it is wrapped various materials breathable: fine mesh, nylon stockings.
We are waiting until spring.
How to properly dig seedlings until spring
If for any reason optimal timing autumn plantings have passed and there is a danger that our plants will not have time to take root before winter, in this case we send them to spend the winter in the dig.
For the winter, crops such as cherries, cherries, cherry plums, plums, and pears are usually added dropwise. Their landing on permanent place it would be better to reschedule for spring
- In a high place protected from the wind, not in a lowland - otherwise they will flood melt water in the spring, they dig trenches 60-50 cm deep and 50 cm wide.
- Seedlings are laid in trenches at an angle of 45 degrees, placing them so that the tops "look" to the south - this technique will help to avoid sunburn in the spring.
- Seedlings in the trench fall asleep a quarter of the soil and watered.
- After the established frosts, they are finally covered with earth above the root collar by 20-25 cm.
- A groove is made around the pit to drain water and poison is laid out against mice.
- In the spring, dug up trees are tried to be taken out of such storage as early as possible, in order to avoid the bark on the trunks getting warmed up, and planted in a permanent place.
Here are some considerations for autumn tree planting. We are glad that our advice helped you cope with such important garden work like planting trees in autumn.
Every spring, all gardeners are overcome by "planting disease". It begins as soon as the snow melts, and it is hardly possible to get rid of its symptoms until the end of May. Occasionally there are summer residents who do not run around the markets and nurseries in the spring in search of seedlings - they planted everything in the fall. So, when is it better to plant trees - in autumn or in spring?
When can trees be planted
Theoretically, trees can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen. The most important thing for a planted tree is the fullest possible contact of the roots with the ground. If the soil is frozen, it will not be possible to compact it enough to provide such contact. If the roots of the tree hang in the void, it will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the aerial part. After all, the fact that trees “sleep” in winter does not mean that they do not lose moisture.
If you plant a tree in the middle of summer, for example, the biggest problem will again be increased evaporation of moisture, which, however, can be replenished with frequent watering.
Thus, trees can be successfully planted at any time of the year.
The main thing is to land correctly and provide thorough care. True, why create additional difficulties for yourself and the seedling if there are optimal planting dates that reduce these difficulties to a minimum?
When is the best time to plant trees?
The period of physiological or forced rest, when the trees "sleep" in anticipation favorable conditions for vegetation, and is optimal for planting. "Hibernation" begins as soon as foliage falls from the trees, and lasts until the buds open. The tree does not care when exactly during this period it will be planted. However, there are a number of factors that are important for the gardener. Let's consider these factors in more detail.
Pros and cons of planting in the fall
So, consider the reasons why you should not plant trees in the fall:
If the winter is exceptionally cold (as it was literally two years ago), the planted trees may freeze slightly. In addition, they can be damaged by heavy snow, ice, wind and other weather disasters.
Trees planted in the fall can be damaged by rodents, or they can simply be stolen if your garden is left unattended during the winter.
At the same time, there are significant advantages of autumn planting seedlings:
- In autumn, there is a rich choice of planting material, since it is during this period that nurseries begin selling seedlings.
- If you plant trees in autumn, one watering will be enough, coolness and frequent rains will take care of your pets even without your participation.
- If the winter is not too severe, the soil will not freeze to the depth of the roots. In this case, the planted tree will grow suction roots over the winter and heal the wounds caused by the transplant.
In the spring, the gardener-gardener has a lot of work: he needs not only to plant trees, but also to take care of the old garden, prepare the garden for planting, and so on and so forth. It's not so bad to do something in advance, freeing up time for other worries.
As you can see, there are more pluses in the autumn planting than minuses. So if you've been planting trees in the fall, keep doing the same. Now let's see if you should succumb to the "planting disease" in the spring and plant a couple more seedlings.
Should trees be planted in the spring?
Why is it problematic to plant trees in spring:
- During spring planting, it is necessary to water the seedling twice: during planting and a day later, loosen the ground and cover with mulch. Further, you will also have to water the planted tree often, especially if the weather is hot or windy.
- If late with spring planting, then the planted tree will have a significantly reduced chance of surviving. If the tree has not yet taken as it should, and the sap flow has already begun, then it will only come out by providing special care, which not every amateur gardener can do.
- In the spring, the market for planting material is poor - much is sold out in the fall.
Benefits of planting trees in spring:
During the winter, you have the opportunity to prepare theoretically, draw up a planting plan, on the basis of which you can already order seedlings - there will be no hasty decisions.
Winter is not such a “dead” season for a gardener: you can prepare pits, tools, and generally put the garden in order without rushing.
If you can't secure the site, you won't have to worry about planting trees all winter.
If you plant trees in the spring, they get one more year of vegetation - if you plant in the fall, you would have a crop a year later.
As you can see, there are more pluses here. So, if your “hands itch” to plant a tree, plant without looking back at those who mumble that it’s not right. That's right, this way, and that way. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose the most suitable time for you to plant trees.
Be sure to take into account the local weather and features. Residents of the southern regions, of course, are better off planting trees in the fall. There, the autumn is long and warm, and the spring is too quickly replaced by a hot summer. And the northerners better watch out for the harsh winter and plant trees in the spring. However, if you did not have time to plant something in March-April, postpone it until the fall. And if you don’t have time in the fall, fill in the gap next spring. Most importantly, plant trees and take care of them with love!
How to plant trees
I hope you don’t think that planting a tree means digging a hole, sticking a seedling in there and filling it with earth?
In scientific terms, for a successful planting process, a number of rules must be followed under which the tree could form an active functional root system as quickly as possible, i.e. so that it takes root and receives the necessary substances and moisture for the development of the crown.
I wanted to talk about these rules, and for this you need to answer 3 questions, namely, what? as? when? Almost? where? when?)
WHAT?
What to consider when buying, unless of course you buy this seedling, and do not dig it up in the forest or in a neighboring area. I think it's worth highlighting a few simple rules:
Acquire in a specialized horticultural economy or a large company where you can get the necessary advice.
It is desirable that there be a label indicating the variety and breed.
So that the seedling does not have any distortions of the crown, a crooked trunk, an uneven distribution of branches along the trunk. And at least there must be 3 skeletal branches.
There should be no signs of injury or disease.
If the seedling is in a container, then the roots should not break through the drainage hole.
If the seedling is in the package, then earthen clod must be dense and proportional to the above-ground part.
Seedlings with an open root system should not have damage on the roots, signs of disease, the roots should not be overdried. And also all the leaves of such seedlings must be removed.
WHEN?
When to plant? Here I see two options:
In autumn. The leaves have fallen off and the tree does not need to spend energy on feeding the crown, so it is engaged in the development of a new habitat. But one thing - planted in the fall winter-hardy varieties, such as apple, pear, berry and ornamental shrubs.
Spring. More thermophilic varieties better to plant in early spring otherwise they will not have enough time to prepare for the winter. This applies to apricots, cherries, plums, cherry plums, low-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.
The time of planting a large-sized plant differs from, for example, the planting of lilac, which is planted from the second half of July to the beginning of September.
P.S. V this case I meant the landing time in those areas where summer and relatively good weather last only 3-4 months.
P.P.S. Seedlings in containers can be planted in the summer, the main thing is that the roots are not overdried.
AS?
And now the landing itself, only 9 stages:
Designate a landing site. Here we think and plan the development of the future tree for years to come, so that it does not interfere with anything and has the opportunity to grow unhindered. We outline a place and designate a pit, which should be 2 times as wide as an earthen clod with roots.
Dig a hole. We separate the top excavated fertile layer from the bottom and pour them on opposite sides of the pit.
Loosen the bottom of the hole. This is done in order to make it easier for the roots to go deeper into the lower layers of the soil.
Fertilize planting soil. The top layer of soil that we separated is diluted with mature compost or humus (Where to prepare compost can be found here). Add more pre-cooked fertile soil and mineral fertilizers. The lower unused layer of soil can be used to fill holes in the area, if any)
Drive in the stake. We install the support even before planting so as not to damage the roots, as a rule, it is needed for large plants.
Place the seedling in the hole. At the bottom of the pit we pour a little prepared earth and set the seedling vertically. At the same time, we do not sink the root system into the soil (we do not bury it), the root ball of the earth should only be lightly sprinkled with earth on top. After all the work, the soil level in the planting pit, taking into account future precipitation, should be about 5 centimeters higher than the level of the rest of the site.
Fill the hole with earth. I think it is obvious that before filling the hole, you need to remove what the root ball of the earth was wrapped in, it can be burlap, paper, etc.
Tie the seedling to the support. In the form of a figure eight, tie a seedling to the support with soft twine. The twine should not cut hard into the bark of the tree.
Water the plant well. We compact the earth around the trunk, and along the edges of the pit we make a roller for irrigation. We water the near-trunk circle well (so that the roots come into contact with the soil), after which we sprinkle (mulch) it with peat or humus by 5 cm.
How to plant a fruit tree
proper planting of fruit trees
Proper planting of trees and shrubs
It is preferable to plant deciduous trees at the time of the vegetation break, that is, in early spring before the leaves bloom or in the fall after the foliage has fallen.
The best time for autumn planting is mid-September and all of October, but you should focus on specific weather conditions.
Spring planting is carried out after thawing of the soil, which in temperate latitudes usually occurs in mid-April - early May.
On wet, heavy and compacted soils, it is recommended to plant trees in the spring.
In areas with early harsh winters, it is also preferable to plant seedlings in the spring.
Heat-loving trees and shrubs are planted in the spring after late spring frosts, as when planted in autumn they may not survive the winter.
When planting trees in the spring, you need to make sure that the ground has thawed and does not have frozen areas.
It is not recommended to plant trees during prolonged rainy weather, at the time of frost or dry hot weather.
Conifers and evergreens should be planted in late autumn, late summer or early autumn, so that they have time to take root in winter time nourished above-ground part moisture.
Material courtesy of the site: http://green-dom.info/building-your-own-home/when-to-plant-trees/ Recommended!