What is the best drainage pit for the house? Wooden drainage pit: creation and arrangement

The easiest way to arrange a site similar to a central sewer system is to construct a drainage pit for Wastewater on one's own. Its arrangement can be divided into several stages.

Preparation stage

At this stage, it is necessary to make calculations - what size should it be? drain hole, equipped with my own hands, the number of people whose accommodation is planned for suburban area. The volume of the drainage pit also directly depends on the intensity of use of various plumbing fixtures.

In addition to choosing the size, you need to determine exactly where the drainage hole will be organized with your own hands. The following rules should be followed:

You need to choose a place based on location groundwater. Such places should be avoided so as not to contaminate the water that enters the house from a well or well located on the site. The location of groundwater can be determined using observations - for example, marshy plants grow well above groundwater located close to the surface. The water level in neighbors' wells can also indicate the depth of the aquifer. But accurate information can be obtained mainly through test drilling.
The distance from the water source to the drainage pit should be at least 20–30 m. A hermetically sealed pit should be located no closer than 5 m from the house.
If the area is uneven and has pronounced highs and lows, the drainage pit should be located in the lowest area for better flow of wastewater into it. In this case, taking into account precipitation, the hole needs to be made larger than planned.

Excavation

After selecting the location and volume of the drainage pit, it is necessary to carry out initial excavation. Dig a pit for a drainage hole for small family not that difficult.

The arrangement of the pit depends on whether it is planned to concrete the walls of the drainage pit or not. A sealed sewer will require regular cleaning of the pit from waste using a sewer service, just like a drain pit without a concrete bottom.

At the bottom of the prepared pit, drainage should be laid - a sand and gravel cushion. It will also become a filter for water that gradually goes into the ground. When concreting, the layer of sand and gravel can be made small - up to 10 cm. However, if such a cushion is planned as a natural filter, its thickness should not be less than 20 cm.

Construction of a drainage pit

Concreting the bottom is carried out using concrete mortar and reinforcement. A 5-10 cm layer of mortar is laid out on the prepared sand and gravel cushion, into which the reinforcement grid is recessed and another layer of concrete mortar is added. If you plan to use concrete rings for a sealed drain pit, when arranging the bottom, you need to deepen the walls so that the diameter of the bottom of the drain pit becomes larger than the diameter of the hole for the sewer pit.

After arranging the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to begin forming the walls. For this you can use:

concrete rings,
concrete mortar and reinforcement,
bricks.

If you plan to use concrete rings as walls, you should arrange the drainage pit as follows:

After organizing the concrete bottom (the area of which should be slightly larger than that of the ring), a concrete ring with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pit is placed directly above the pit.
Gradually removing the soil from under the ring, it is lowered to the surface level. Then they put a second ring on top and continue to remove the soil to the very bottom.
At the bottom, the joints of the ring and the concrete bottom must be processed concrete mortar for sealing.
If the bottom is simply a sand and gravel cushion, then the rings are simply lowered to the required depth, and the joints between them are sealed with cement mortar.

Concreting walls on your own will require not only manufacturing cement mortar from cement of a grade no less than M200, but also by arranging formwork from wooden boards. For greater strength, be sure to add reinforcement - metal rods at least 1 cm thick.

A drainage pit, the walls of which are made of brickwork, is not necessarily made of whole brick. Broken brick, connected with cement mortar, is quite suitable for organizing the sewer system of a private house.

When arranging a drainage pit, it is necessary to provide for the supply of sewer pipes from the house. In the upper part of the container you need to make a hole with a slightly larger diameter drain pipe. The void between the pipe and the walls of the hole is filled with sealant.

A sealed lid with a hatch must be placed on the prepared drainage pit.

Owners country houses often you have to master the intricacies of how to do cesspool. This design allows us to solve the problem of wastewater disposal in places where there is no public sewerage system.

Sanitary regulations require that the wastewater facility be located:

1 or more meters from the fence separating neighboring land plots;
12 meters (no closer) from a residential building;
30 meters from the source of water intake (if you plan to build a hole without a bottom with your own hands).

Wastewater facility

Competent calculation geometric parameters Designs for collecting wastewater are made taking into account the following characteristics:

Number of people using water in their home year-round. One person consumes up to 180 liters of liquid per day. If 3 people live in a house, it is recommended to build a drainage pit of 18 or more cubic meters.
The distance between the top of the sewer structure and the ground surface. This value should be at least 1 m. If you build a pit without taking this requirement into account, the likelihood of sewage flowing beyond the cesspool structure increases, which will lead to poisoning of the ground and the appearance of an unpleasant odor in your area.
Type of soil. When there are rocks in the ground that do not allow water to pass through well, the volume sewer pit is taken so that it is higher than the monthly wastewater norm. If the soil allows water to pass through without problems, the volume taken is approximately 40% of the amount of drainage. This is important to know for those who want to learn how to make a cesspool.

Important pro tip! Do not make a cesspool more than 3 m deep. As it fills, you will have to call sewer trucks to pump out the wastewater. Efficient removal waste is precisely provided at a depth of up to 3 m.

If about 1 cubic meter of waste flows into a hole per day, it is quite possible to equip it in the simplest way - dig a small pit in the ground, coat its walls with clay and further strengthen it wooden planks. Such designs were previously widespread. They are built with their own hands even today.

It is clear that these types of pits do not meet the requirements of sanitary services. It is quite possible that you will even be issued an administrative penalty if you decide to build such a basic structure. Of course, no one needs this. It is better to equip a normal cesspool that will effectively cope with the tasks assigned to it. These include two types of structures:

Sealed tanks (pits with a bottom).
Absorbing structures without a bottom.

Wastewater facility

The easiest way to make the second holes with your own hands. In them, wastewater (their liquid part) is filtered when passing through pieces of brick and gravel, which are poured at the bottom of the pit. The wastewater then goes into the ground. This system is easy to install. In addition, bottomless pits are rarely cleaned due to the infiltration of (partial) water into the soil.

Absorption structures are usually installed when the volume of wastewater is relatively small. Such cesspools are good for houses where there are no washing machines, dishwashers, bathtubs, and so on.

In other cases, it is recommended to install sealed tanks. They are closed containers from which wastewater does not enter the ground. Such tanks are built from gas silicate and concrete products, plastic, brick. The disadvantage of these pits is the need to frequently call sewer trucks to pump waste out of a closed container; the advantage is the complete absence of unpleasant “odors.”

We build a drain structure with our own hands - step-by-step instructions

Let's figure out how to properly make a cesspool. All work is best done according to the following scheme:

Dig a pit with the required dimensions. This operation will go quickly if you hire an excavator. But the cost of renting special equipment is high. Therefore, you can dig the hole by hand using a shovel.
Leave about one and a half cubic meters of soil (we will use it to backfill the cesspool after all work is completed), and take out the rest of the soil. Fertile upper layer soil can be poured into the garden.
Concrete the bottom of the hole, wait 10-12 days until the mixture becomes as strong as possible. Concrete may not be used. But experts advise spending your time and energy on arranging such a bottom.
Lay out the walls with bricks. The masonry may not be of very high quality - it will be hidden from prying eyes, the main thing is that it reliably holds the soil from crumbling. The corners of the masonry must be tied, and the bricks should be installed in a checkerboard pattern. This way the liquid part of the wastewater will be sucked into the ground more efficiently.

A reliable ceiling must be installed on the completed masonry. This is done by hand like this:

Dig in soil from all sides of the brickwork (approximately 0.2 m).
You make it either from profiled sheets.
Mounting reinforcement cage. Tie the rods with wire, optimal distance between structural elements – 10–15 cm.
Fill the floor with concrete. It is advisable to bayonet the supplied mixture with a shovel, then the reinforcement frame will be well filled with the solution.
You wait about a month for the ceiling to harden.
Remove the formwork supports, lay out its walls with regular bricks, and plaster them on the outside. Additionally, you can treat the walls with bitumen to prevent moisture from the atmosphere from entering the pit.
You fill the structure you made with your own hands above the hatch with soil, compact the soil, and level it.

So we figured out how to properly make a cesspool. Please note that you do not need to have any special skills to perform such an operation with your own hands. The whole procedure is carried out quite simply, and its high labor costs are fully compensated by the low cost of the design.

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If in multi-storey buildings property owners do not think about the question of where to dispose of waste water and sewage, then for owners of private households the problem of waste and sewage disposal requires a permanent solution. They have no choice but to make a drainage hole with their own hands. This option for arranging a treatment plant is the simplest and most affordable during construction. on our own.

Landscaping begins personal plot from the installation of a water supply and sewerage system, since staying in nature cannot be called comfortable if you have to carry drinking water from a well and run to nearby bushes when needed.

There are several options for disposing and processing wastewater and sewage, but the simplest design is a cesspool. It is necessary to have knowledge of how to properly make a drainage pit without the help of specialists, so that in the future you will not have problems with its operation and the environmental situation in the area adjacent to the house.

Types of drainage pits

Despite the simplicity of the design, drainage pits differ in the way they are implemented.

They are:

sealed;
filtering;
two-chamber.

Drain pit sealed. The process of how to make a drainage pit with a completely sealed body has its own characteristics. This option is the safest from an environmental point of view, since all waste coming from home or outdoor toilet, end up in a sealed settling tank and remain there until the arrival of the sewer truck.

When the pit is made airtight, sewage does not contaminate the soil and groundwater. As a result, the ecological system will not be threatened, nor will the sources drinking water. The advantage of such a treatment design is that it can be used regardless of the hydrogeological conditions in the adjacent area.

But there are also disadvantages. Sewage and sewage accumulated in a sealed container must be periodically pumped out, and calling a sewer truck is not a cheap service. The frequency of pumping depends on the volume of the tank used.

In fact sanitary standards it is prohibited to build local sewerage such a design: when untreated wastewater gets into the ground, it can cause irreparable harm to the environment in a given area. They can even be a source of contamination of drinking water sources, and this is already extremely dangerous for human health.

This option, if currently used, is only for country houses, since the people living in them require a small amount of water. It is recommended to build filter-type waste pits only if the volume of waste during the day is no more than a cubic meter. When the amount of wastewater is small, it has time to be processed through natural decomposition.

Often pits of this type equipped during the construction of baths, steam rooms and for houses in which separation of wastewater is provided. In the latter case, it is necessary to lay two sewer branches and build two drainage pits on the site. The first of them, equipped with a filter type, receives waste water from washing machine, shower cabin, from the washbasin. These effluents are considered relatively clean.
Sewage from the toilet and water from the kitchen are directed into the second sealed pit.

Two-chamber drain pit. This decision problems with waste disposal is considered practical and reasonable.

The operating principle of this treatment plant, shown in the photo, is as follows:

a drainage pit, consisting of two chambers, is connected at the top by an overflow, the first of which is sealed, and the second is filtering;
unseparated wastewater initially enters the first of the chambers, which is sealed, and settles there (mechanically separated);
solid particles sink down to the bottom, and less contaminated water flows into the next chamber;
from another chamber, water is filtered into the soil;
The waste collected in the first chamber must be pumped out from time to time. To reduce the amount of waste, special biological drugs. The bacterial strains contained in them promote the processing of organic matter, which leads to a reduction in the amount of sewage.

How to make a drain hole correctly

Before making a drainage hole in a private house, you need to design a construction plan. It is necessary to select the type of structure, location of construction and calculate the required volume of the tank.

Of course, the amount of waste is determined individually, but generally accepted standards also apply. For example, for a family that permanently lives in a house and has three members, they build a pit that can hold 6 cubic meters.

When calculating the volume of a container, the following points are taken into account:

How affordable is the cost of services provided by vacuum cleaners;
the volume of waste that sewage disposal equipment is capable of pumping out of a pit at one time.

Choosing a location for a drainage pit.

When determining where a sump should be made, a number of factors are taken into account:

distance to the location of soil water. It should be sufficient to dig a pit two meters deep (this is the minimum value). Read also: " ".;
the distance from the source of drinking water to the sump must be at least three tens of meters. It is extremely important to maintain the minimum distance from the well to the cesspool, for your own safety;
you cannot make a cesspool on a slope;
it is necessary to provide for the possibility of access of special equipment designed to clean the pit from the drain;
It is prohibited to make a septic tank in the immediate vicinity of a residential building and the fence of a neighboring property. Minimum distance to a residential building should be 5 meters.

Thus, before making a drainage hole in your house, the location should be chosen very carefully to prevent contamination of the area, surrounding the building, especially when the site is built up. In any case, the rules must be followed.

Selection of building materials for arranging a drainage pit.

When creating a sealed cesspool, the following materials are used:

When constructing a filter type drain pit, you can:

cover it with bricks, leaving 5 centimeter gaps between the rows in a checkerboard pattern;
install reinforced concrete rings for drainage wells with perforation into it;
use car tires. They are laid on top of each other, cutting off the lower rim on each tire;
use used metal or plastic tanks or barrels. The bottom should be cut off and holes should be made in the lower part to improve filtration of wastewater.

Making a drain hole with your own hands

Exists certain order How to make a drain hole with your own hands correctly.

On initial stage prepare a pit and dig trenches for laying supply pipes.

The depth of the pit should be greater than the designed depth of the drainage pit, since space will be required for the drainage pad. It is made from layers of sand and crushed stone, which are carefully compacted.

If you plan to arrange sealed pit, then the thickness of the layers should be 10-15 centimeters. Place pillows or iron on top concrete slab, or fill concrete screed.

When installing a filter pit, for better wastewater purification minimum layer crushed stone should be 20 centimeters. Thanks to this measure, the bottom is more long time will not silt.

Then you need to start strengthening the walls of the sump. To do this, make brickwork, or use plastic containers, or install concrete rings.

In the case when a sealed sump is being built, after the walls have been strengthened, waterproofing should be done.

At the same time, connect the supply pipeline to the tank receiving the wastewater. It is necessary that the connection of the pipes with the tank is both sealed and not rigid: then it will not collapse when the soil moves. therefore For connection you should use rubber couplings.

Approximately 40 centimeters from the surface of the earth, a cover for the sump is made. Usually they use ready-made reinforced concrete slab having a hole for a hatch. If desired, it is quite possible to make such a slab yourself, having previously made the formwork. The ceiling can also be constructed from boards, but it will not be durable.

In order to control the degree of filling of the tank and to pump out sewage, a hatch must be installed in the ceiling. In addition, a ventilation pipe should be mounted on the lid to remove gases (including methane) that are formed during the decomposition of the solid contents of the wastewater. You can pour soil on top of the ceiling, but so that precipitation cannot enter the pit.

When is the creation of a local sewerage facility, for those home craftsmen who are new to this type of work, knowledge of how to make a drainage pit for servicing a country household will not be superfluous. Even if hired workers do the arrangement, it will be easier for the owner to monitor the quality of the services.

The lack of a centralized sewer system in a suburban area can be easily compensated by installing an autonomously operating system for collecting wastewater.

In order not to waste money and time searching for qualified specialists, you can carry out all the work yourself. How to properly make a drainage hole will be discussed in this article.

Tools and materials needed to create a drainage pit:

Shovel or other digging tool.
Crushed stone, sand.
Reinforced concrete rings or bricks.
Roulette.
Concrete mixture.
Mastic.

Determination of volume

The size of the required volume of the drainage pit directly depends on how intensively the residential property is used. If the whole family lives in the house throughout the year, then it is necessary to build a structure designed for a large volume of sewage. A much smaller drainage pit is built at dachas, which are used mainly for summer recreation.

If a private house actively uses water for domestic and economic needs, it is recommended to build not just one drainage pit, but a network of wells that allow you to clean the drains and drain the already treated water into the ground. When calculating the required volume of a drainage pit, the availability of sewerage equipment services and the volume of sewage that the machine can pump out at one time are taken into account. The cost of these services directly depends on the degree of distance from treatment facilities, so calling in equipment to pump out a not very large drain hole will be very expensive.

Selecting a location

When determining suitable place for a drainage pit, the following factors are taken into account:

If there is a difference in elevation on the site, then a drainage pit is built in the lowland.
The hole is not dug in close proximity to the house - the distance from the hole to the building must be at least 5 m.
The site must have access to free access for special cleaning equipment.
The distance from the pit to the water source must be at least 30 m.
The groundwater level in the area must be at a sufficient depth, because the depth of the drainage pit must be at least 2 m.

Creation technology

First of all, they are carried out earthworks. It is best to dig a hole with an excavator, but if it is not possible to use it or if the area is abundantly planted with green plants, then dig with a regular shovel. Taking into account the arrangement of the drainage cushion, the depth of the shaft is usually about 4 m.
Next, a layer of crushed stone and sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted well. If the drainage pit is not planned to be sealed, then you need to fill it with a thicker layer of crushed stone. This will ensure better filtration drains and will protect the bottom of the pit from silting. If a hermetic structure is planned, then a concrete slab is laid on top of the cushion or a concrete screed is made inside the pit.
The walls of drainage pits can be lined with wooden boards or solid red bricks (the simplest option). Brickwork must be done in a checkerboard pattern. This will allow runoff to seep through the holes into the ground. It is recommended to pour broken bricks or crushed stone around the brickwork. This measure will increase the rate of moisture absorption. The drainage pit can be strengthened with tractor tires, but you can find them in Lately very difficult.

Arrangement of the pit

You can make a cesspool from reinforced concrete rings very quickly and inexpensively. In this case, factory-made rings are used. They are delivered to the house by freight transport, which is equipped lifting device. If there is convenient access, concrete rings are mounted into a pre-prepared hole using a crane.

If it is impossible to drive to the selected location, the rings are rolled manually to the dug hole and installed step by step using a block lifting device. When carrying out work, it is necessary to strictly follow safety rules. As the hole is dug, the rings are lowered one by one according to the following algorithm.

First of all, soil is excavated to a depth of 1 m. Next, use the block to install the 1st ring. After this, soil excavation continues from under the ring. In this case, it is imperative to install supports that will prevent the ring from unevenly lowering deeper into the pit. A second ring is placed on top of the lowered ring, fastening them together using metal staples. The algorithm must be repeated until all the rings are installed in the pit. Finally, a ceiling with a special hole for the hatch is installed. The hole is subsequently closed with a plastic or cast iron lid. The gaps between concrete rings and the walls of the pit are covered in layers with crushed stone and thoroughly compacted.

To make the structure more airtight, the junction points various parts and the seams are coated with bitumen mastic. Particularly carefully seal the gap in the hole that is made for the entrance of the main sewer pipe(it is laid at a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 m of pipeline).

For safety reasons, it is necessary to lay reinforcement or metal corners over the entire surface of the drainage pit. After this, formwork is made and concrete is poured. You need to leave a hole on the surface for ventilation pipe and an inspection hatch. Most often, the hatch is made double, and the space between the covers is filled mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The drainage pit needs to be improved. So as not to spoil appearance plot of land, the area is covered with soil and decorative plantings are planted.

Tightness

In order to preserve the ecology of the summer cottage, a completely sealed drainage pit is made. Thus, the waste will not pollute the soil at all, but you will have to pay for regular calls to the sewer truck. Ready-made plastic containers are ideal for these purposes. Their volume usually does not exceed 1000 liters.

Plastic tanks, which are enclosed in a metal sheathing, are also called Eurocubes. These devices are sold in specialized stores. They are usually equipped with plastic or wooden pallet. They are often used to transport liquids, but recently they have expanded their scope of use. To prevent this container from being pushed out during seasonal ground movement, it is filled with a concrete frame.

It must be remembered that with any options for constructing a cesspool, you will have to use the services of a sewer truck. Therefore, you need to take care of her entrance in advance. In this case, it is necessary to try to minimize the area of invasion of the site.

People tend to travel outside the metropolis, to the countryside, to be closer to nature, fresh air and the earth. But one unpleasant discovery awaits them there - the absence of the usual city amenities, one of which is sewerage. No centralized system, traditional for the city, so for a comfortable stay you have to lay pipes for wastewater and get acquainted with such a concept as a drainage pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of country sewerage

A modern dacha is radically different from the village houses of the last century. Economic citizens replaced the toilets hastily knocked together in the yard with comfortable toilets, installed showers, bathtubs, washing and dishwashers. The question arose: where should dirty used water flow?

This is how elementary sewer system: a set of discharge pipes that lead to a storage tank mounted on summer cottage outside the building. Various structures can act as storage devices: an expensive station biological treatment, a simpler device is a septic tank or cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and sewage flow through pipes into a storage tank, from where they are removed by special equipment at different intervals.

Regular pumping of the contents of the sewage pit - required condition its use. The only way effective cleaning storage - calling the vacuum cleaners

Most vacationers, especially those spending only a summer vacation at their dacha, dream of installing a suitable storage device quickly and cheaply. Perfect option V in this case– do-it-yourself drainage hole. To build it, you will need several days and a minimum of costs - mainly improvised materials: bricks, boards, cement.

Calculation of storage capacity

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each resident. But you need to take into account the incalculable water consumption during water procedures and use household appliances, so for a family of 4 people a tank of at least 6 m³ is required.

The inclination of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for complete pumping of sewage using sewage equipment - a specially designed hose that is lowered to the bottom

The size of the structure depends on the volume of incoming wastewater, but there are certain limits. For example, the depth of a country drainage pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage disposal equipment simply will not cope with the cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, length – 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The ground level must exceed the filling level of the pit by at least 1 meter. This is a kind of insurance against sewage spills beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to make a mistake in choosing a location. The question arises: how to properly make a pit for a drainage pit so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain tank in relation to residential building, water source and nearby obstacles

There are a number of rules:

The minimum distance from the house to the storage device is 5 m.
The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
The pit must be located in an open space, not enclosed by buildings or fences.
A prerequisite is a good access road for a sewage disposal truck.

It is necessary to consider the drainage pit as an object of increased danger, therefore the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

Example of building a brick pit

Stage #1 - excavation and foundation

Digging a pit is hard and labor-intensive process, so if possible it is better to use an excavator. The most convenient shape is considered rectangular or square, but pits of a cylindrical configuration can also be found. During digging, you should monitor the condition of the walls: they should be smooth and protected from crumbling.

If you haven't had to do it before brickwork, it is better to choose a structure rectangular shape: Straight walls and corners are easier to shape

The design features of the drainage pit largely depend on the material. Let's take a closer look at the construction of a red brick storage tank with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be given a slight slope towards the hatch - for effective cleaning. The bottom layer is a 15-centimeter sand cushion, then a layer of concrete, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multi-layer base, a reinforced concrete slab of suitable dimensions can be installed at the bottom.

Stage #2 - building walls

The material for constructing the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. Masonry is done traditional way- with a brick shift halfway in the next row. Minimum thickness masonry – 0.25 m. Brick walls partially permeable to water, but how to make the drainage hole airtight? And it’s very simple - you just need to use bitumen mastic or similar waterproofing solution.

In the process of building a pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand are used, for example, boards and beams left over from the construction of a house

Attention! Only completely dry walls are coated with bitumen-based mastics.

Stage #3 - installation of the ceiling

The strongest floor is made of reinforced concrete. Wood and plastic are not suitable, as they have too short a service life. It is better if the upper part of the structure is blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. Design for concrete floor is created in several stages. Pour the first layer of mortar (5-7 cm), then lay iron rods on it and cover it with a second layer of concrete. When the ceiling has completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

On the surface of the earth, only the manhole cover remains visible. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a brick drainage pit; just basic skills in masonry and wall processing are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The advantages of a drain tank include the following factors:

Ease of installation and maintenance. You can dig a hole and improve it yourself, and to clean it, you just need to call a sewer truck.
Independence of installation from soil type. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
Protection of groundwater from pollution. Concrete bottom and brick walls prevent wastewater from penetrating into the ground, but if it leaks, soil bacteria will cope with the cleanup.

Before you dig a storage drain hole, you should consider its negative sides. One of the noticeable troubles is the periodic smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help eliminate this problem.

Well equipped, connected directly to sewage pit the road is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. It is better to start building a road at the stage of building a house

You need to get used to frequent visits to vacuum cleaners - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does silting not occur. The service life of a brick storage tank is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If for some reason the cesspool is no longer suitable, you can install a more functional septic tank that performs mechanical and bacteriological treatment of wastewater.