Replacing wooden flooring with concrete. Replacing a wooden floor with a concrete one

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In a private house or in a “Khrushchev”, it is most often necessary to replace old wooden floors, since their service is limited to a certain period of operation. Wooden floors are susceptible to deformation from constant temperature changes and exposure to humid air. Wood is an environmentally friendly, durable and affordable material with reliable heat-insulating characteristics; wooden floors look cozy and are suitable for any surface. In order to decide to replace the floors with your own hands in an old house or in a “Khrushchev”, you must first determine the degree of wear and tear and possible options repair.

Signs of wear on a wood floor


You can make sure that the floors are truly unusable and you can replace them yourself by checking a few basic indicators:

  • boards squeak when loaded;
  • boards bend under the weight of furniture;
  • significant level differences are noticeable, water flows in one direction;
  • cracks and gaps appeared between the floorboards;
  • wood becomes rotten and crumbles under any impact on it.

If you come to the conclusion that the repair is in in this case is useless, then a full-scale re-flooring should be planned. The video provides a list of tools that you will need to replace wooden floors with your own hands. You can proceed in several steps, including:

  • determining the amount of materials - logs are calculated based on laying 0.5 - 0.8 m from each other, boards with a width of at least 40 mm are used for floorboards, and how many boards will be needed to re-lay the floors are calculated based on the area of ​​the re-laying with a margin not less than 1%;
  • treating wood with impregnation with antiseptic properties to prevent rot and mold;
  • installing a hydraulic barrier before laying the logs on the ground surface or concrete base, for this purpose you can use sheets of roofing material placed in two or three layers under each lag.

Replacing the old floor


If the floors are being replaced not in a Khrushchev-era building, but in a private house or country house, then after dismantling the old floors, the base for the joists should be leveled; this requires several steps:

  1. Level and compact the ground;
  2. In the places where the supports are installed, dig holes 200x200 mm up to half a meter deep;
  3. Fill with layers of 60 mm of sand, crushed stone and rubble chips;
  4. Fill with prepared concrete mortar;
  5. Build on hardened mortar brick pillars to lay horizontal support beams on them;
  6. Then the logs are laid perpendicularly on the support beams, and the space between the logs is covered with OSB sheets;
  7. Support beams and joists cover protective impregnations and it is advisable to additionally cover it with bitumen mastic;
  8. Next, the floor surface is covered with waterproofing in the form of a dense film.

The video shows how logs are laid on a leveled base and their strictly horizontal position is checked with a hydraulic level (spirit level). To do this, you can use a cord stretched between the outermost logs, then the logs are carefully leveled in height relative to the cord, selecting in the right places small pieces of plywood suitable thickness so that the cord remains evenly stretched and is in contact with all the beams.

Important! We must fill the space between the joists with insulation, which can be used as mineral wool, penoplex or expanded polystyrene. All of the above materials have additional and sound-absorbing properties. The price of these materials is not high and they can be purchased at any hardware store.


When we re-floor the floors with our own hands in a Khrushchev building or in a dacha, we mark them on the prepared boards with a tape measure right size and, using a square, we cut the boards strictly in compliance right angle. In order for wooden floors in a house or in a “Khrushchev” to be strong and durable, you need to try to follow the basic rules:

  • joining floorboards is only permissible in the middle of the joist;
  • between the boards and the adjacent wall it is necessary to provide a gap of one and a half centimeters for the free expansion of wood in the warm season; the gap left under the baseboard will be invisible;
  • to fix the boards, you need to use self-tapping screws three times the thickness of the board, since the nails gradually come out due to the constant expansion and contraction of wood fibers, which creates inconvenience and leads to dangerous consequences;
  • when laying, the boards should be tapped together as tightly as possible, for which a hammer and a timber extension are used; it is advisable to place the floorboards in the main direction daylight from window openings;
  • the heads of the screws, which should be hidden in the wood, and the resulting cracks must be covered special mixture(sealants, putties);
  • the floor surface must be treated with a sander;
  • A primer or drying oil is applied to the laid boards and painted with acrylic or oil paints.

Important! It is very convenient to use tongue-and-groove boards, which have longitudinal protrusions on one side and grooves on the other - special recesses that fit exactly with the protrusions, to replace floors with your own hands in a Khrushchev-era apartment building or in a dacha. Tongue and groove boards are thoroughly cleaned during the manufacturing process and do not require additional sanding.

This video demonstrates in detail the process of laying tongue and groove floors, which create a very neat, comfortable impression. Their cost is not much higher than the cost regular boards, however, the quality of processing and ease of installation pay for the money spent. It often happens that in order to emphasize additional aesthetic accents in the interior, the boards are not painted, but in “ rustic style»coated with alkyd varnish of different color saturation; the low cost of varnishing makes this method very attractive. Any covering can be laid on top of a wooden floor: laminate, linoleum, carpet, ceramic tile.

If the old floor cannot be restored, then there is only one option left - replacing it. This process requires a considerable amount of time and physical effort. However, the result is a new floor covering that will serve its owners for decades. Let's look at how to replace floors with your own hands below.

Features of replacing a wooden floor

If the old floor cannot be restored, then there is only one option left - replacing it. This process requires a considerable amount of time and physical effort. However, the result is a new floor covering that will serve its owners for a long time. long period time. We’ll talk further about how to replace floors with your own hands.

If old wooden floor constantly creaks and causes discomfort while walking on it, then care should be taken to replace it. The procedure for measuring a wooden floor consists of several stages, the first of which involves dismantling the old flooring.

To do this, you should prepare special tool, with which you can get rid of old boards. It is best to use a crowbar or a pry bar. These elements have the appearance of scrap steel, which is distinguished by the presence of a curved edge on one side with a small lever. It is with its help that the dismantling of boards is carried out quite quickly. Please note that before removing the old covering, you should carefully inspect the floor for the presence of communication channels, so as not to damage the wiring, pipes or ventilation system.

The time it takes to complete this process depends on the wear of the boards; if the floor is old enough, then removing the boards will not be difficult. If the floor covering is strong enough, then you need to work hard to dismantle it.

All debris, boards, logs, if any, should be removed and taken out of the room. This will create a level base, most often made of sand or soil. It is possible to place an old screed on the floor that has certain defects, slopes and irregularities.

To make a high-quality new floor, the old floor covering must be completely dismantled. After cleaning the floor from dirt, it should be leveled or a new screed should be poured.

Before this, the floor must be treated with a primer, which will improve the adhesion of concrete to the surface and have an antiseptic effect. Next, using bitumen mastic Waterproofing work on the floor is being carried out.

Please note, go to next stage work should only be done after the bitumen mastic has completely dried. In addition, it is possible to carry out an additional waterproofing works in the form of laying additional flexible waterproofing. It will help to effectively protect the room from moisture.

After rolling and laying roll material, all its joint areas are treated with the same bitumen-based mastic.

In order to reduce the amount of concrete mortar used for screed installation, work should be carried out to insulate the new floor. In addition, insulation can protect the room from extraneous sounds from below, for example, if the floor is being built in an apartment in a high-rise building. In addition, such a floor will be warmer and safer.

Slab insulation in the form of mineral or basalt wool, foam plastic, etc.

After fixing the reinforcing mesh, the solution is prepared and arranged concrete screed floor. For these purposes, we recommend ordering concrete mortar factory-prepared, since its quality is much higher than that of a conventional solution prepared at home. In addition, it is possible to use self-leveling mixtures, which allow you to make a high-quality floor screed. In order to calculate the amount of mortar, in the process of arranging the screed, you should calculate the length and width of the room, as well as the height of the screed, multiply all these indicators together and you will get the amount of mortar in cubic meters. For example, if you plan to install a screed in a room whose length is 4 m and width is 2 m, and the thickness of the screed is 5 cm, that is, 0.05 m, you should use 4x2x0.05 = 0.4 cubic meters of solution.

Next, the solution is laid on the floor surface and leveled. After this, you should wait at least 4 weeks until the screed hardens. To ensure that the floor is perfectly level, a self-leveling mixture is used, which is laid after the concrete screed has dried. After it has dried, the floor is ready for finishing, laying linoleum, laminate, parquet, installing joists, subflooring or tiles. Option finishing completely depends on the preferences of the owners of the premises.

Redevelopment, floor replacement: initial stage

There are many reasons that provoke the replacement of flooring in an apartment or in a private house. This includes wear and tear of the old flooring, repairs, the floor not matching the overall style of the interior, etc.

The process of replacing a floor and the complexity of its implementation directly depends on the type of flooring. The first and very important stage Replacing any floor involves installing the old floor covering.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with the procedure for its implementation using the example of floors of different materials:

1. Floor made of wood.

The process of dismantling an old wooden floor is the simplest, since it requires only an axe, a hammer, a screwdriver and a pry bar. In addition, you may need electric jigsaw or saw.

All work is carried out in the following sequence:

  • First, the baseboards installed around the perimeter of the room are dismantled;
  • if planned reuse boards, then the procedure for dismantling them should be extremely careful, using a nail puller, the fasteners are removed, and if the boards were fixed using self-tapping screws, then in this case, you cannot do without a screwdriver;
  • if the boards are too worn and unsuitable for further use, to dismantle them, a saw, a pry bar and a jigsaw are used; as you dismantle the boards, take them out of the room so that debris does not accumulate in it;
  • Next, you should dismantle the logs, keep in mind that they are most often too tightly attached to the old floor, so in the process of dismantling them, be especially careful;
  • After removing all the covering, clean the room and get rid of excess debris.

2. Replacing floors made of concrete is a more complex process. Work on dismantling an old concrete floor is carried out very rarely, since in most cases, such a floor is simply restored using special repair compounds.

However, if the old coating cannot be repaired, there are a large number of peelings and cracks on it, then it should be replaced. In addition, old screeds often have accumulations of fungus and mold on their surface, which negatively affect the health of the residents of the house. This is one of the first reasons for its dismantling. Another reason for replacing a concrete screed is the presence of too low ceilings in the room, and it is the replacement of the screed that helps solve this problem. Thus, it is possible to reduce the thickness of the screed using sound-hydro- and heat-insulating materials.

In order to remove the screed efficiently and quickly, it is recommended to use a hammer drill; it is with its help that it is possible to carry out partial removal screeds.

After the screed has been removed, you should clean the room and get rid of any excess debris generated during this work.

Replacing old floors: preparing the base

To improve the quality of laying a new floor, you should carefully prepare the base for its installation. To do this, it is recommended to perform a number of actions:

  • clean the base as thoroughly as possible from dust, so you can detect minor defects on the floor in the form of cracks, chips, holes or crevices;
  • if they are present, care should be taken to seal them using special compounds, since these areas will significantly worsen the heat and sound insulation of the room;
  • For these purposes, polyurethane foam, cement-based mortar or sealants are used;
  • the choice of one or another composition determines the type of defect, its size and quality of damage;
  • if fungus or mold is observed on the surface, then these areas are treated with a special antiseptic;
  • after the base has dried, the base is prepared, this stage of work depends on what type of finishing coating is chosen for the floor;
  • Please note that if, after deformation of the old concrete floor, a wooden floor is installed, then the installation of a new small concrete screed will still be required.

Replacing a wooden floor with a concrete one: arranging a screed

Instructions for making concrete screed:

  • with the help of a self-leveling coating it is possible to hide small surface defects, if they were present on the floor; for these purposes you will need to purchase a ready-made dry construction mixture, which will have a self-leveling effect;
  • Please note that all work should be carried out in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging;
  • after the solution is ready, it is applied and leveled on the floor surface; in order to distribute the composition, you will need to use a wide spatula, and with the help of a needle roller you will be able to get rid of excess air;
  • a floor leveled in this way should be left until the composition dries completely, as it must gain the required strength.

After the floor has dried, the following work is carried out:

  • installation of insulation and installation of the main floor covering;
  • arrangement of plywood subfloor;
  • installation of wooden floor.

Replacing floors in a wooden house: installing a screed with expanded clay

Another option for arranging a screed during the process of replacing floors in a house is to install a floor with expanded clay. This material has good thermal and soundproofing characteristics. Expanded clay is also quite lightweight material, which does not load the building, is especially important for apartments or floor insulation on the second floor.

The construction of a screed with expanded clay requires the following actions:

  • if it is planned to install a screed on the first floor located above basement, then first a series of works should be carried out aimed at arranging waterproofing;
  • there are several ways to carry out this process: painting the floor, plastering, casting, gluing with special materials;
  • Please note that waterproofing should be applied not only to the floor, but also to the walls that are in contact with the floor;
  • waterproofing roll material is laid on the prepared surface, it extends 21-25 cm onto sections of the walls, and the joints between the sheets are 10-15 cm; special tape is used to connect the joints;
  • a damper tape is installed on the film around the perimeter of the room, with its help, even with significant temperature changes, the screed will not lose strength;
  • on the film, beacons are installed, which are mounted in accordance with the level; it is recommended to use a concrete composition to fix them;
  • the beacons must have such a height that it compensates for the height of the expanded clay and concrete screeds;
  • Next, expanded clay is poured, which should be thoroughly compacted. after that, expanded clay is poured concrete composition, which is leveled in relation to previously installed beacons;
  • after the screed has dried and slightly shrinked, it is recommended to apply a small layer of self-leveling mortar, which will give it the perfect appearance;
  • laid on this type of structure finishing material any type.

Replacing laminate floors photo:

Replacing the floor in an apartment with your own hands: features of screed construction

Another option for making a screed in an apartment is a screed without insulation. This type of screed is also used in the process of installing a wooden floor on it.

To make this type of screed, follow these steps:

  • lay waterproofing material in the form of a polyethylene film on the main floor;
  • Apply damper tape around the perimeter of the room;
  • lay a metal or fiberglass mesh over the waterproofing;
  • install beacons that will help make the screed as even as possible;
  • pour the concrete solution and level it over the surface using the rule;
  • The maturation time for this type of screed is 3-4 weeks.

Replacing the floor covering: installing a dry screed

Another option for floor restoration is dry screed. To make it, you do not need to use “wet” concrete solutions, but rather dry materials that level the base of the floor. More often this type screeds are installed in the apartment. In order to replace the flooring using a dry screed, you must perform a number of steps:

1. Cover the floor with waterproofing in the form polyethylene film. Try to lay it with a margin near the walls and with an overlap in the joint areas.

2. B doorway place a limiter in the form of a wooden board, which will help prevent the dry composition from spilling out of the room.

3. Make sure that the mound fits tightly to the floor surface.

5. Please note that the beacons should not be fixed to the floor, since they must be removed after installing the screed. To check the evenness of the beacons, use a building level.

6. Pour filler material onto the surface of the film, for example expanded clay. Using the rule, level the dry mixture.

7. Special fiberglass-based boards are laid on the surface. This creates a dense base. To glue the plates together, you will need glue and self-tapping screws.

Replacing floors video:

Replacing floors in a house or apartment is carried out for various reasons. The most common examples are the need to install sound and heat insulation, a decision was made to install a “warm” floor, the coating was deformed, the boards began to creak, or the humidity coming from the basement increased, you just wanted something modern and new.

Be that as it may, you will have to do a lot of work, consisting of several stages. Much when replacing material depends on what material the old floors are made of, and on how you plan to see the new flooring. Moreover, you need to think additional function, which would increase noise and heat insulation, and also provide more reliable protection apartment.

So that the complexity of the upcoming work does not come as a surprise to you, you need to find out not only how much it costs to replace floors, but also become familiar with the main stages of the upcoming events.

Removing the floor

This process is one of the most unpleasant. But no matter how scary it may be, you simply cannot do without such an activity, and therefore you should boldly get to work.

If the old floor in the apartment is wooden, then there will be no big difficulties or problems with its dismantling. For work, you need to prepare all the necessary tools, such as a hammer with a nail puller, an ax, a pry bar, a screwdriver, an electric saw or a jigsaw for cutting old boards (if you do not plan to reuse them), a shovel and garbage bags.

How to dismantle an old wooden floor

  • First of all, you need to get rid of the baseboards by removing them around the entire perimeter of the room, and only then can you begin to dismantle the plank covering.
  • If you plan to re-lay the boards or use them as joists, you must remove them carefully, being careful not to cause serious damage to them. So use a nail puller to carefully remove all the nails. If the boards were secured with self-tapping screws, then this process will not cause any difficulty - most often they can be unscrewed with a screwdriver.
  • If you do not plan to use the boards in the future, it is better to immediately remove them from the apartment. You should not collect a bunch of garbage, as it will interfere with subsequent actions. It is also worth doing with other elements that are for installation work You definitely won't need it.
  • Having freed up space, you can begin dismantling the joists. It is important to remember that they can be securely fixed to the floor, and they must be dismantled carefully, trying not to damage the base. Otherwise, you will add additional work and expenses to yourself, which will be spent on sealing the resulting holes.
  • When you free the room from the old coating, you need to thoroughly clean it, as far as the base allows, of course. Having completed this procedure, you can begin preparing the floor for installation work.

Dismantling a wooden floor: video

Removing a concrete floor

Removing old concrete covering performed in extreme cases, since it can be easily repaired. Drastic measures are taken only if the old cement coating cannot be preserved. For example, it was constantly exposed to moisture without regular drying. In such a situation, mold and mildew could form in the concrete layers, which could cause effects on the health of residents - asthma, allergies, lung diseases, rhinitis and others. Naturally, it is simply necessary to dismantle such a coating.

Another reason for dismantling is low ceilings in the apartment. If you are going to install a floor with insulation, then be prepared for the fact that it will become higher, and the covering will need to be removed to make room for a sound- and heat-insulating structure.

If you plan to get rid of the screed, make sure that it is laid on concrete interfloor covering, and perform this procedure with extreme caution.

To remove the screed layer, it is better to use a hammer drill. With its help, its individual pieces are removed. Typically, such a layer leveling the slab ranges from 50 to 120 mm.

When the old screed is removed, you also need to carry out cleaning activities. However, in this option it is unlikely that you will be able to perform a perfect cleaning, but you will have to make every effort.

Preparatory work

In order for the new floor covering to be laid efficiently, it is necessary to bring the cleaned base from the old floor into proper condition.

  • Carefully remove all dust from the surface. This is done in order to detect serious flaws in the base (holes, cracks, crevices, areas of coloring or peeling, places where the concrete was saturated with certain compounds, or where traces of mold and dampness were visible).
  • If you find any, they need to be sealed well, otherwise they can reduce the effect of sound and thermal insulation. This can be done using polyurethane foam, cement mortar or sealant. You need to make a choice of repair materials based on the size of the damaged base. In case of mold or mildew formation, the base must be impregnated with special aseptic compounds.
  • As soon as the base has dried, subsequent preparation steps are carried out, which will depend on what type of flooring is being replaced with the old one. For this reason, these processes should be considered in conjunction with the installation of each type of flooring.

But keep in mind that even if you are going to install a wooden floor instead of a dismantled screed, the surface will have to be leveled with a new concrete coating (a small layer).

Making a new screed

You can make a new screed different ways. If the base is more or less flat, and a wooden covering is laid on top of it, then bring it into perfect order by making a self-leveling floor. One of best options Self-leveling coating will be poured.

Self-leveling coating can hide small flaws or differences in the foundation. To do this you will need ready-made dry mortar, designed for self-leveling floors.

You can familiarize yourself with the technology for preparing the solution on the packaging, and it must be strictly followed. Next, the prepared solution needs to be poured over the surface, then spread using a wide spatula or squeegee, and then pierced with a needle roller to release the remaining air bubbles.

The leveled floor must be left to dry so that it gains strength. All compositions are characterized by their maturation period, depending on the components from which the building mixture is prepared.

Then on the leveled floor you can:

  • lay thin insulation and decorative covering;
  • arrange plywood covering with the installation of a special infrared heated floor film;
  • lay the wooden floor on the installed joists.

Screed with expanded clay insulation

The second type of screed is laid directly on expanded clay, which is a high-quality sound insulator and insulation material. Moreover, the material is quite light, which means it will not weigh down the interfloor ceiling, which should be taken into account when screeding in an apartment. Moreover, the process of laying this screed is as follows.

  • If the screed is performed on the first floor, located above a cold basement, then first of all, waterproofing is done. Its installation is carried out different ways: cast, plastering, painting, pasting and others. It is applied not just to the floors, but also to the lower part of the walls, to a previously primed surface.
  • A thick polyethylene film is laid on a previously prepared waterproofed surface, extending 20 cm onto the walls. The film sheets must be glued to each other using special tape.
  • Next, a damper tape is attached on top of the film around the perimeter of the room, which helps keep the screed intact during severe temperature changes.
  • Next, beacons are installed on top of the film and leveled. They are usually fixed to concrete mortar. In this case, the height of the beacons must correspond to the height of the expanded clay layer being filled + the planned thickness of the screed.
  • Next, expanded clay is poured in a layer slightly below the installed beacons and leveled well.
  • Then, a concrete solution is poured on top of the expanded clay, which is leveled along the top of the beacons.
  • When the screed dries, it will most likely settle somewhat; it can be shaped thin layer self-leveling floor.
  • Then any decorative floor covering is laid on top of this structure.

Screed without insulation

An ordinary concrete screed is made to strengthen the floor for further flooring wooden covering or on the floors apartment building where insulation is not required.

A special damper tape is glued along the entire perimeter of the walls.

Laid on top waterproofing film needs to be laid reinforcing mesh(fiberglass or metal), and then install beacons that are leveled in the horizontal plane.

In this way, the entire room is poured and leveled, after which the screed is left for 3-4 weeks, during which time it will harden and mature.

Once it is ready, proceed with the installation of joists, insulation, and boardwalk.

Dry screed

Another option for arranging a new floor is a dry screed, which is perfect for installing in an apartment. It has proven itself to be excellent in that you don’t have to mix the solution and create a swamp in your home. Floors made of dry screed are made as follows:

  • A thick polyethylene film is laid on the floors, which should extend 5-10 cm onto the wall (height allowance). A board is installed in the doorway to limit spillage of the mixture. The flooring should fit as closely as possible to the surface of the base.
  • Next, beacons made of even wooden beams or metal profile. But in this version, the screeds cannot be fixed to the base, otherwise, after leveling the surface, the guides from the backfilled layer must be removed.
  • The next step is pouring the filler onto the film. Its layer should have a greater height (several millimeters) compared to installed beacons.
  • Using the rule, the dry filler is leveled, focusing on the beacons.
  • The last stage is the laying of gypsum fiber boards with interlocking joints. Glue is applied to them, after which the next panel is laid. This is done in such a way that the locking parts fit together perfectly. The plates are additionally fastened in these places using self-tapping screws.

The finished floor is formed using decorative covering, the choice of which depends on your personal preferences.

Wooden floor

The floor, made of plywood or tongue-and-groove boards, is installed on a prepared screed. Moreover, it can be laid directly on a concrete base or laid on logs.

The most popular among these options is the first one, as it has many advantages. For example, between the joists it is possible to install sound insulation and insulation. Moreover, the surface is raised above the concrete, which in turn adds an insulating effect. Another advantage is that the logs add greater rigidity to the coating, and it becomes more reliable. Floors on joists or bars are installed in several stages:

  • Before attaching the logs, the room is marked. The lines are marked with painted stretched twine. The distance between the joists must correspond to the width insulation material(if used mineral wool, you can reduce it by 30-50 mm, it will be much better).
  • Next, cut the logs to the required length. But it is important to remember that they must be located at a distance from the wall, no less than the thickness of the insulation. As a rule, mineral wool is used for insulation - if low-quality polystyrene foam is used in closed residential premises, the atmosphere will not be so environmentally friendly.
  • The distance between the log posts, which are fixed to the floor, should be within 40-50 cm. The level of the future floor can be brought to the horizontal plane by adjusting the height of the posts.
  • At the end of this work, you need to lay the insulation. First, this must be done between the wall and the joists, along the entire perimeter of the room, then lay it between the joists.
  • The next stage is covering the entire structure with a special vapor barrier film - it should be secured to the joists using a stapler.
  • Laying the boards is the most important process. Starting floorboards should be 5-7 mm from the wall, which will provide ventilation and compensate for linear expansions from increased humidity or thermal changes in the room.
  • If you plan to lay plywood on joists, then provide a joint between two sheets so that it falls in the middle of the joist. You need to calculate the size of the plywood sheet. To ensure surface rigidity, sheets must be fastened using a system brickwork, namely with a shift of the next one by half a sheet.

There is often a need to replace floors. This procedure is time-consuming and financially expensive and requires a lot of labor. Unfortunately, once the work is done poorly, efforts and money are invested to correct it. Our article will help you avoid mistakes and share tips on how to optimize coating repairs.

Typical reasons for changing floors.

  • Old age house;
  • Ancient wooden boards;
  • Major repairs;
  • Installation and installation of “warm floor”;
  • Thermal and sound insulation;
  • High humidity;
  • Deformation and creaking of floorboards or joists.

The most difficult thing to repair and change is in an old house. The boards there are dried and therefore difficult to remove.

Replacing a wooden floor with a concrete one in an apartment or house

If you decide to independent replacement floor, then first you need to get ready. Accumulate a certain amount Money, purchase necessary tool and if possible, find someone to help you. Boards must be purchased at a hardware store or at a trusted wholesale warehouse. The decorative, final coating can be anything: linoleum, parquet, laminate. During repairs, the residents of the room should be moved to another room.


Required tool:

  • Shovel;
  • hammer;
  • nail puller;
  • axe;
  • screwdriver;
  • mount;
  • Grinder;
  • level.

How to dismantle

  1. Removing skirting boards around the perimeter of the room.
  2. Raising old flooring. Use a nail puller to remove nails, and a screwdriver to remove screws, respectively. It is advisable not to reuse wooden boards; take them to a landfill or leave them for firewood.
  3. Dismantling the logs. This step is only available if the space in the room is completely free. The joists must be removed carefully; they are often firmly attached to the rough base. Otherwise, you will waste time repairing the remaining damage.
  4. Thorough cleaning. Remove all debris and notice any remaining boards or other waste.

These steps will help you prepare to begin your renovation. Now the room is free and clean, you can safely replace the boards in it.


Removing a concrete floor

Concrete floors are rarely cleaned. It is required only if it is categorically worn out and bad condition. Also in the event that it is not enough for him cosmetic repairs. Typically, it can be repaired if the condition is only slightly different from normal. It is necessary to remove it if the house has low ceilings, and the design project provides for thermal insulation. If you decide to remove the screed, then approach this procedure carefully. It is best to spend some money to entrust the work to professionals and avoid damage to the interfloor covering. After removal, cleaning and removal is required again construction waste.


Bringing the surface into the appropriate form.

  1. Remove dust thoroughly. This way you can notice defects: dents or cracks, if any. Pay attention to whether there is mold or dampness.
  2. Correct the defects listed above. If you skip this step, there is a risk of reduced sound and thermal insulation. Use for such purposes polyurethane foam or sealant.
  3. Allow the rough finish to dry. This important step, violation of which may affect the quality of the coating

New screed

The screed helps to level out the defects resulting from the work. For example, minor damage. With its help, the floor surface becomes smooth and even. The solution for its manufacture can be purchased at any hardware store. There, the consultant will tell you which manufacturer and which components are best to choose in your case.

Application technique:

  1. Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the package.
  2. Pour the mixture over the surface, level it with a spatula. You can pierce the resulting film with a needle roller in order to remove excess air, turned into bubbles.
  3. Leave the poured surface to dry. She must gain strength.

The drying time of the mixture depends on the components included in it. The expiration date is indicated on the package. On average it is 7-30 days.


Advantages of the screed:

  • the possibility of laying insulation on a flat surface;
  • you can apply sheets of plywood;
  • possibility of quick installation of heated floors;
  • strong fixation wooden planks on the joists.

Screed with expanded clay insulation

It is used when replacing coatings in multi-storey buildings. However, it is also used in the repair of floors in cottages and private buildings. The reason for this is simple: a screed using expanded clay does not put pressure on the floors between floors. Installed as follows:

  1. Waterproofing. This procedure is required when pouring on the first or ground floor. It is best to install it using the plaster or cast method. The material should be placed not only on the floor, but also on pre-primed walls.
  2. Cover the room with thick plastic film. It should extend onto the walls by approximately 17 cm. The pieces of material must be secured with finishing tape.
  3. Damper tape sticker. It is placed on top of the film. This method helps protect the screed from damage due to temperature changes.
  4. Arrangement and installation of the same even level of beacons using a level. They are installed and fixed using concrete mortar. The height of the landmarks should correspond to the sum of the thicknesses of the screed and the expanded clay layer.
  5. Sprinkling expanded clay. It should be placed just below the level of the installed beacons, and then leveled. The concrete solution should be poured on top.
  6. Pour the mixture in a thin layer. This step must be performed after the screed has dried.

A huge advantage of the work done will be the ability to lay any decorative covering on the floor.

Filling without subsequent insulation

This work is complex and painstaking. It is performed according to the following principle:

  1. Flooring film for waterproofing. It should be placed directly on the base.
  2. Putting up damper tape.
  3. Placing reinforcement on the material to protect it from water.
  4. Installation of beacons on top of the grid. Beacons are located at the appropriate level of the plane.
  5. Pour concrete solution. It should be positioned 1.5 - 2 cm higher than the landmark on the far wall. This is the distance by which the fill will sag. When laying the mixture, you need to move only along the guidelines.
  6. After leveling all floor surface The screed must be left to dry. This takes from 3.5 to 4 weeks. It all depends on the substances used to make the screed. Temperature and humidity levels are also important.
  7. Laying lags.
  8. Placement of insulation.
  9. Laying floorboards.

Installation of dry screed

Dry screed is also a well-known method for leveling the surface. It is used mainly in multi-storey buildings. When using this method, you do not need to mix the solution with water. The floor using this technique is also installed in several stages.

  1. Laying polyethylene film in such a way that it covers up to 10 centimeters of the future coating. It is necessary to mark the board in this opening so that the dry mixture does not fall off.
  2. Installation of beacons made of wooden beams or metal. It is necessary to align the landmarks using a level.
  3. Add filler. The level should be slightly higher than the installed beacons.
  4. Leveling dry material.
  5. Laying gypsum fiber boards with interlocking joints. The places where they are connected must be treated with an adhesive composition, and it is also necessary to ensure the accuracy of the joining of the plates. Additionally, fasten the blocks with self-tapping screws.
  6. Installation of decorative covering.

Replacing a wooden floor with your own hands

Floor structures are installed on a pre-prepared screed. Let's talk about the correct replacement of joists in a residential area. The process takes several stages.

  1. Marking the room. For such purposes, a stretched strong thread or twine, which is painted with some kind of paint, is used. Most often this is blue. Installation is carried out observing a certain distance between the logs. This distance should be equal to the width of the extension cord.
  2. Cutting bars of appropriate sizes. Do not forget that the space between the wall and the laid beam should not be more or less than the thickness of the extension. Minvata helps for such purposes. We do not recommend using polystyrene foam. Its use has a negative effect on the body of the occupants of the room. May cause some diseases.
  3. The logs must be fixed at the base. They need to be fixed to a concrete floor.
  4. Remember to maintain a distance of half a meter between the joists and their posts. The level is achieved and adjusted by the instrument of the same name.
  5. Laying insulation. Let us remind you that the procedure is performed in 2 stages. First, between the joists and the wall around the perimeter of the room; after - between the installed bars.
  6. Covering the structure with vapor barrier film. All this should be fixed using a construction stapler.
  7. Creating plank flooring. First, the floorboards should be laid at a distance of up to 7 cm from the wall. This way you can create a ventilation and compensation gap. It will be useful in case of subsequent linear extensions. These arise due to inconsistent levels of humidity and temperature.
  8. Fastening skirting boards over plank floors. It should be fixed to the wall.
  9. Watch the location of the joint of the sheets. they need to border approximately in the middle of the block - lag. Sheets of plywood are laid like bricks. This method helps to add additional rigidity to the structure.
  10. Seal the cracks after installation is complete. To do this, you should use putty. We remove the excess immediately; after complete drying, you can go over the seams with fine-grained sandpaper.
  11. Installation of absolutely any floor covering. For example, linoleum, parquet or laminate.

If your building does not have a freight elevator or does not have one at all, then take care of a person who will help deliver boards to your apartment. Of course, you can hire movers.

If you are not experienced in installing floors and do not have an assistant, entrust the work to professionals. However, remember that here you will not need to spend money on purchasing tools and removing construction waste. It's up to you to buy what you need. building material and work control. This method will help you if floor repairs need to be completed as soon as possible.

Time it right. An inexperienced person, usually the owner of an apartment, spends a full day's work renovating the floors in one room average area at 12 square meters. If the repair cannot last for a long time for some objective reason, think about hiring at least a few workers who can help you.

If you want to save on purchasing floor coverings, choose linoleum. It will serve you for a long time. Linoleum corresponds to the price-quality ratio.

In general, replacing floors is a difficult and expensive job. If you decide to do it yourself, then take your time. Don't skimp on your purchase quality materials. It’s better to pay a little more initially than to invest huge sums of money in a future floor overhaul. If you decide to hire a team of workers, be sure to pay attention to the portfolio of work completed by the company. Also listen to reviews. Don't overpay for poor quality work. If you have any questions regarding floor replacement, you can consult with specialists at construction stores when purchasing working material.

If you have any questions, or we have not covered any topic, write to us in the comments and our specialists will prepare the appropriate material.

When the apartment has an ugly, shabby floor, the whole impression is good repair or beautiful furniture will be lost. But this kind of work - replacing the floor covering - is very labor-intensive process, which is not easy to decide on. But a simple change of decorative coating will only give the result of a cosmetic update. Invisible processes will continue and, as a result, you will have to spend much more effort and money to restore the damaged coating. Let's consider the algorithm in detail repair work floors in the home, the procedure for carrying out the procedure on your own.

How to repair the floor in an apartment on a concrete base

If the floor covering is laid not on logs, but on a concrete base, pay attention to the advice of specialists. If the floor covering is worn out and requires replacement, then it is necessary to carry out the following manipulations:

  • Whatever material the floor is based on, damaged fragments must be removed. If it's linoleum, there's a fun way to make a patch out of the new one. To do this, the old piece must be attached to the roll and the patch cut along the border.
  • Any tile that moves or has fallen off should be removed.
  • The places from which damaged fragments were removed must be cleared of debris and dust. Carefully using auxiliary tools, clean the surface of old material.
  • The substrate may be damaged, in which case it is necessary to prepare a new solution and troubleshoot the problem.
  • After the concrete has dried, you can lay patches, be it linoleum, tiles or other material. For this, glue, mortar or other necessary mixture is used.

Sometimes it happens that the entire concrete base requires restoration. In this case, it is necessary to perform a screed. If the surface of the concrete base is uneven, lumpy, then it should be leveled, this will affect finishing coat and ruin it. Linoleum will become unusable and may tear, repeating the bends of the concrete covering, the tiles will sway due to different floor levels.

Methods for repairing the floor in an apartment

To avoid such troubles, you should level the surface concrete slabs, on which the floor covering will be laid. This should be done like this:

  • first you need to remove the old coating, if any, the substrate, remains of construction debris and dust;
  • ideally, the base of the floor must be waterproofed, it is laid overlapping and strengthened along the walls;
  • if you do not use waterproofing, you need to consider this important point- the concrete solution should be poured onto a previously wetted surface, this will allow the material to “grab” better;
  • when leveling the surface, to make it ideally even, beacons and a building level should be used;
  • After the concrete surface has dried, it is covered with any material.

When repairing a wooden floor covering, it is necessary to inspect the entire floor and remove damaged boards. The floor area is treated with special solutions against fungus; those places that are exposed to moisture are protected from water using special waterproofing materials. If cracks have formed as a result of the wood drying out, the following work must be done:

  • grind the surface with special equipment;
  • prime and clean the cracks;
  • cover the floor surface with nitro varnish;
  • After the solution has dried, cover it with a finishing substance.

If the laminate has become unusable or ceramic tile, you should try to disguise minor damage. Wax pencil capable of restoring scratches on laminate flooring. Specially developed pastes mask minor defects. If the laminate is swollen or damaged, it must be replaced. If chips and cracks form on the tiles, you can try to apply cement laitance and hide the defects. But if the damage is significant and affects the aesthetic appearance of the room, the tiles need to be replaced.

When repairing linoleum on your own, you must remember that it is possible to repair the floor surface of such a material.

If the linoleum is swollen, cracked or torn, you can do this:

  • inject glue with a syringe into the damaged area;
  • place the load and let it sit for several days;
  • If the result is not satisfactory, replace the area with a new one.

If the carpet fails, spare parts should be used:

  • cut out the damaged area, glue a patch;
  • the edges are treated with special glue to prevent fraying;
  • Ideally, it is worth considering the pattern and direction of the fibers.

For stone flooring, the following steps must be taken:

  • cracks and chips are leveled using grinding equipment, after which the surface is polished;
  • polishing helps make the coating protected from dirt;
  • You can perform such actions with the result when the cracking depth is no more than half a centimeter.

Complete replacement of the floor in the apartment

If you have decided to completely replace the floor covering in your apartment and even change the material, pay attention to a new product on the construction market - OSB panels. Replacement wooden version from boards to floors from of this material quite a practical result. Floor coverings made from OSB boards deserve attention, as the flooring is of high quality, durable and practical. The surface is not afraid of moisture and does not accumulate it inside. Using plates, you can achieve the following result:

  • perfectly level the surface, which allows you to use any, even the most delicate and sensitive coating;
  • high sound insulation allows you to absorb noise;
  • two tasks are solved simultaneously - insulation and waterproofing are performed.

Use OSB boards It is possible both on a cement floor and on logs. Coating with the material is not difficult. The panels are easy to cut to required sizes. To work, you should prepare the following tool:

  • plane;
  • rubber hammer;
  • building level;
  • electromill.

Plates can be the finishing surface or base for any material.

Advantage using OSB- slabs, is:

  • ease of operation;
  • one slab can cover a large area of ​​the room;
  • speed of laying the coating;
  • resistance to mechanical stress.

Instructions for repairing the floor in an apartment

After deciding to replace the floor or its major renovation, it is necessary to determine the scale of work and the plan of repair measures. If we are talking about replacing the floor surface in an apartment, it should be noted that the basis is reinforced concrete slab ceilings Then there may be differences: in some apartments the floor covering is located on joists, in others it is laid on a concrete screed.

Wooden floors are susceptible to decay and wear. The first manifestations are considered to be creaking, “loosening” of some boards, there may be a smell of dampness, and gaps between fragments of the floor.

Not only the top coating can deteriorate, but also the screed, especially if the quality of the work was not the best high level. An extraneous sound may appear when moving, or the coating may “walk.”

A set of manifestations indicate the need for gender replacement.

Repair work on wood flooring

Provided that the coating defects are minor, you can partially replace the floor material:

  • The surface is cleaned of the old layer of paint or varnish. This is easier to do with the help of a special technique - a grinding machine.
  • Damaged boards should be removed.
  • After this, the entire floor surface is checked for quality nailing. They pull out old, deformed boards so that the boards hold well; it is recommended to use self-tapping screws.
  • If there are small distances between the boards, the cracks are sealed with putty for wooden surfaces, you can cover where the nails go into the base of the floor.
  • If the gaps are large, you can fill the gaps with wood chips, cover them with putty, and rub the restoration area.
  • After the putty material has dried, the floors are sanded manually or using a machine.
  • When the work is completed, the floor surface is covered with paint or varnish.

Do-it-yourself floor repair when floorboards creak

You can restore the floor in an apartment, provided that the floorboards are fastened together, in the following way:

  • first you need to listen to which particular area of ​​the room the creaking is heard;
  • between the board and the beam you need to hammer in wedges;
  • this must be done carefully so as not to loosen the floorboard;
  • a place for screws is drilled in the floorboards, they are screwed at a slight angle and the beam is screwed in;
  • These manipulations can get rid of annoying squeaking.

If you only need to restore the appearance of the coating, this can be done quickly and easily:

  • if it is not possible to remove the furniture and vacate the room, the repair work will be carried out in two stages: first on one side of the room, then the furniture is moved to the renovated part of the room and the second half of the room is repaired;
  • Now you need to use a machine for scraping the floor, there is no point in buying equipment just for once, you can rent it for the duration of the work;
  • you can do this work manually, but you will spend a lot of effort, time and sandpaper;
  • after sealing small seams and final leveling, I varnish the clean and dry floor;
  • It is recommended to use two to three layers of varnish, first allow time for the layer to dry.

Partial restoration of the floor in the apartment will allow you to get rid of the defect and not spend money on its elimination large quantity time.

Removing old flooring

Before starting work, it is necessary to empty the room completely: remove furniture, remove paintings, and, if possible, lamps and chandeliers. The work is very dusty and if it is carried out in stages, then reliable and hermetically sealed dust protection should be provided for other rooms. It’s good if the room has a door, but it is advisable to cover it with an additional damp cloth and place a roller underneath. This will help protect the rest of the rooms a little from the spread of dust. This will not have any particular effect, and if other family members live in the apartment, it is better to move them to another place during the renovation work.

The procedure for dismantling the floor covering is as follows:

  • in the room from which the furniture has been removed, the baseboards are dismantled; this must be done carefully so as not to damage the surface of the walls to which they are partially attached;
  • after dismantling the baseboards, they begin to remove the old floor covering;
  • if the material roll type(carpet, linoleum), laid without the help of glue, then it is carefully rolled up, but most often the material is removed with fragments of the screed, in this case the covering is removed in sections and the room is immediately cleared of debris;
  • if the material has been glued and is difficult to remove from the base, it is necessary to use additional tools which will help remove the coating;
  • old parquet, which can no longer be sanded and restored, is removed piece by piece and taken out of the room; if the material was glued with special solutions, then the process of dismantling the parquet can be difficult; in this case, the use of auxiliary tools is also recommended;
  • tiles are removed using a hammer and chisel; if you can rent a hammer drill, the dismantling process will be much easier;
  • if the floor consists of wooden boards, the most difficult thing to remove the covering will be the removal of the first floorboard; using a hammer, nail puller and pliers you can dismantle the plank covering, perhaps not all the material will be intended for disposal, you will have to sort it in parallel.

The most common question that arises when restoring a floor is whether it is worth dismantling the entire coating in the event of fragmentary destruction of the material. If you have started such a global undertaking, you need to completely replace the coating. It is possible that the process of rotting or destruction has affected all areas of the floor, but so far this is not visually noticeable. To avoid having to dismantle the covering again after some time, spend time and energy on a global restoration of the entire room.

Even an inexperienced builder can carry out floor repairs in an apartment with his own hands. Step by step instructions in the video will help you understand such concepts as partial and complete replacement coverage for repairs. After watching the video, there will be no questions left regarding the correct replacement of the ceiling or restoration of the surface.

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