Famous construction material called a block house is a kind of imitation of “wood” and resembles in its appearance a lining with a curved front surface. It can be used both for cladding the facades of buildings and for finishing purposes. internal spaces residential premises. In this article we will try to tell you how to attach a block house with your own hands, and also introduce some of the features of installing panels of this type.
Note that the operations for assembling a block house are quite simple and can be easily reproduced even by a beginner. The installation of the panels is noticeably simplified due to their uniformity (the same size and the possibility of tongue-and-groove assembly). However, as you assemble the elements, you may encounter certain nuances.
Let's look at each of them in more detail:
- First of all, before starting the installation of the block house, it individual elements must undergo mandatory preliminary “exposure” in the room being finished.
- In addition, it is advisable that all mounted panels be treated with an antiseptic before installation.
- To fasten the block house panels, a special lathing made of wooden blocks must be used, attached directly to the walls at a certain pitch.
- The most important condition for the correct installation of the panels is to install them with the tenon facing up, which eliminates the possibility of moisture accumulating in the joints.
- During the installation process, it is necessary to leave technological gaps of about 15 mm between the inlaid cladding of the block house and the walls (as well as at the top and bottom of the structure). In addition, between its individual elements (lamellas) vertically at the joints there should also be a temperature gap of about 1-3 mm.
- The orientation of the block house panels in space (vertical or horizontal) is selected based on the specifics of the interior or your personal preferences. As a rule, when covering the facades of buildings, the slats are placed horizontally, thereby simulating appearance chopped house. When decorating the interior spaces of premises, their vertical arrangement is most often chosen.
Laying the panels during the installation process can begin either from the top or from the bottom of the sheathing. The most well-known methods of fixing planks on a previously prepared base include the following methods:
- “tenon-to-groove” joining (between each other) followed by fixation on the sheathing with self-tapping screws or nails;
- fastening only with self-tapping screws;
- fastening using only nails.
The last two types of fastening are used for block house slats without tenons and grooves.
Sometimes brackets specially designed for these purposes can be used as panel fastening elements. Such fixing elements are best suited for narrow boards of small thickness used in interior decoration.
Selecting the type of fastener and installing panels
The choice of fastening type for Block House panels during their installation (nails or self-tapping screws) is ultimately determined by their thickness. If the thickness does not exceed 20 mm, nails are usually used; For thicker workpieces, it is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws.
When choosing fasteners, preference should be given to products with an anti-corrosion surface (i.e., having an anodized or galvanized coating).
As already noted, the choice of one method or another for attaching the Block House depends on the material you use, as well as on your preferences. The most common of these techniques is the already familiar “tenon in groove” method.
When using it, the junction of the first panel of the Block House is covered by the subsequent prefabricated element and becomes almost invisible to the eye. Each element is fixed to the sheathing either using nails or self-tapping screws. In this case, the fastening element pierces the panel directly in the joint area (at a slight angle to the vertical).
In addition, the element can be fixed directly on the curved part of the panel; in this case, the surface is punched in two places at once. One of the screws is screwed in next to the tenon, and the other is screwed in near the groove on the opposite side. This method of fastening the Block House is suitable for fairly thick panels (more than 40 mm thick), in which holes are pre-drilled and subsequently closed with a cork matching the color of the material.
Before attaching the block house, pay attention to a couple more points, taking into account which will significantly simplify all installation operations:
- If you choose a clamp to secure the panels, their installation should begin from the top of the sheathing.
- To make it easier to “drive” the tenon of one panel into the groove of another, it is recommended to use a small rubber hammer.
Video
This video will briefly talk about the installation of a block house.
Block House can be used for both external and internal decoration. You can learn how to attach panels indoors and make a beautiful joining angle in the following video:
Below is a video about using Block House to decorate a balcony.
A block house is one of the types of panels that imitate logs. All types of this material have excellent characteristics, but despite this, the quality of the cladding and service life are highly dependent on its attachment to the surface.
Properties of block house panels
Block house can be of three types: wooden, metal and plastic. In interior decoration, valuable wood is most often used, usually pine, larch or spruce. It is better to use metal or plastic for exterior decoration.
Block house is a type of siding with an external stylization like a wooden log
Among the advantages of using of this material The following should be noted:
- installation is simple, not labor-intensive and does not take much time;
- the technologies used for fastenings provide the possibility of performing work on insulation and waterproofing of premises;
- the material is durable and requires virtually no additional care during operation;
- surfaces treated with a block house contribute to the creation of a high-quality ventilation system;
- siding goes well with other building materials;
- the panels do not have much weight, which means the load on bearing structures minimal.
Thanks to these advantages, the block house is in demand in the construction market.
It depends on the type of material how and how to attach the block house to the surface.. Having finally decided on the type of block house, you can begin to select fasteners. You can use galvanized metal dowels or use hanging brackets. Effectively use clamps for fastening.
The process itself is not difficult, especially since panels have same sizes, grooves and tenons on the ribs, but the fastening principle itself is not much different.
Preparatory work
Before you start facing works, you should carefully prepare the surface and check the panels.
Preparing panels
Next preparatory stage includes inspection and preparation of siding panels.
In practice, the material is ready for use once it goes on sale. Wood siding requires treatment with an antiseptic.
Such panels must meet the following requirements:
- dry and must take temperature environment. Before installation, it is recommended to leave the panels in fresh air for 2 hours;
- without knots or irregularities.
Metal and plastic panels In fact, they do not require any preparatory work.
Surface preparation
Before fixing the house block outside or inside the house (premises), it is necessary to prepare the surfaces well.
The preparation process includes the following steps:
- clean the surface from all kinds of stains;
- fill all uneven areas with plaster;
- If there are areas contaminated with fungus or mold, clean them and then treat them with a primer and antiseptic.
The surface preparation process is important stage, subsequently ensuring maximum service life.
A strong sheathing provides the lion's share of the durability of the block house
To obtain a smooth and neat surface, it is recommended to install a sheathing.
Lathing
In order to make room cladding, it is necessary to make a frame. Wooden and metal panels They have quite a lot of weight, so for these types of blockhouses the use of a frame is mandatory. The subsequent process of installing a metal and wooden block house essentially coincides with the installation of a plastic one.
Metal or wood is most often used to make the frame. Metal lathing is suitable for installing heavy facing material, but for a blockhouse it is better to use a wooden frame.
The operating principle is as follows:
- cover the walls with a film that will serve as vapor insulation. The film is overlapped by 3 cm;
- make a frame.
A distance of 50 cm should be maintained between the bars. It is this distance that will ensure the strength and stability of the frame.
After completing the lathing, if necessary, waterproofing or thermal insulation should be laid. The easiest way to attach wood or metal to a frame is with self-tapping screws.
Fastening process
It should be noted that when installing panels to the surface It is necessary to leave a gap of approximately 50mm at the bottom and top for ventilation. It is also necessary to leave 1-2 mm between the panels to avoid deformation during seasonal temperature fluctuations.
Types of fasteners
One of the main questions: how to secure the block house, and for these purposes can be used:
- nails;
- self-tapping screws;
- clampers.
Which fastening elements are best used for a blockhouse depends on the type and size of the panels. For example, with panel thicknesses up to 21 mm, you can use nails; if the thickness is more than 21 mm, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws.
But the main factor that should definitely be taken into account is the length and coating of the fasteners. It is recommended to use fasteners with anti-corrosion coating (galvanized, anodized, etc.) to avoid the appearance of corrosion marks during subsequent operation. The length of the fastener should be 1.5 times the thickness of the panel.
Siding panels can be fixed vertically or horizontally, it depends on the taste of the customer and the overall compatibility of the interior. But most often when facing facades the blockhouse is mounted horizontally to create a simulation natural home. When tiling the inside of a room, it is recommended to use the vertical direction. Very often, panels are installed in baths and saunas in this way, because... When the siding is positioned vertically, liquid does not accumulate in the grooves.
To decorate the inside of bathhouses, it is better to use natural wood siding
A fastening element called a clamp is very popular. Most often it is used for interior decoration in combination with narrow and thin boards.
How to attach a block house
You can start installing siding from both the top and bottom. It can be done different ways. Which method to choose depends on the customer.
Among the most common methods are the following:
- tongue and groove;
- using screws or nails;
- using clamps.
The essence of the tongue and groove method is that the next board covers the fastener and it becomes invisible. The fastening method using self-tapping screws is most often used for boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more.
- drill holes with a diameter slightly larger than the screw heads;
- close these holes with plugs;
- Place the self-tapping screw at the base of the tenon or on a cylindrical surface.
When fastening in this way, two self-tapping screws are used: one should be placed at the tenon, the other at the groove. When using clamps, installation is recommended to start from the top.
Docking and finishing of corners
The most problem areas During installation, angles are taken into account. In any case, when installing a block house inside or outside the house, a situation will arise when you have to carry out fastenings on different walls and connect the panels to each other. Actually, it's not that difficult.
The essence of the work is as follows:
- when joining an outer corner, for these purposes you should cut the panel at 45° or use an outer corner. Decorative slats can be used as a corner;
- when docking internal corner you need to connect the end of the panel with the panel on the opposite side, while trying to match the surface relief.
You can join the panels as follows: nail a block in the corner, attach panels to it from different sides.
Final work
The final stage includes surface treatment. It should be noted that metal and plastic siding does not need decoration. It is recommended to coat wooden siding with wax or clear varnish, polish sandpaper and paint again with the same paint or varnish.
Subtleties and nuances
For exterior finishing natural block house uses wood coniferous species, which is naturally water resistant
When preparing and performing installation, you should take into account some subtleties recommended by experts:
- when installing a block house inside with high humidity care should be taken to ensure that air enters from the opposite side of the cladding for natural ventilation;
- When choosing panels for installing a block house outside, you should pay attention to panels made of pine and larch, the width of which is 100 - 180 mm, and the length is 6 m.
- Before starting installation, it is worth checking the moisture permeability of the surface.
If the walls are made of materials that do not allow moisture to pass through, the vapor barrier stage can be eliminated.
The cost of doing it yourself and hiring specialists
As noted above, installing a block house when hiring specialists slightly increases the price of the work.
The approximate cost of installation work can be seen in the table:
You can do the work yourself, and, of course, installation will be cheaper.
How to properly attach siding when installing a metal block house with your own hands in the form step by step instructions outlined in this video:
In order to produce external finishing facade or arrange wall surfaces interior spaces, block house is often used. Before starting work, it is important to know how to properly attach a block house, as well as some of its features.
This material is a modified lining, and its front side has cylindrical shape. This cladding has excellent characteristics, but how durable the coating will be will depend on the quality of the work performed.
Tools and materials
To carry out the work you need:
- dowels;
- scotch;
- nails;
- self-tapping screws;
- boards;
- block house;
- hammer;
- waterproofing;
- thermal insulation;
- stapler
Surface preparation
Installation of canvases on the façade of a building must be done after hydro- and thermal insulation of the surface. The first layer should be a vapor barrier, it should be fixed with tape with an overlap, the width of the overlap should be 100-150 mm.
The next layer will be the sheathing; the installation step of its elements should be slightly less than the width of the insulation. Next, you can attach the heat insulation sheets using dowels.
The heat insulator must be covered with a wind- and moisture-proof film, which can be strengthened using a stapler, gluing the joints with tape, and it can be replaced with a special film.
On top of the previously installed bars, another layer of sheathing should be strengthened, which is intended for mounting the block house. In this case, you should use bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The elements of the second sheathing should be fastened using self-tapping screws to the bars of the first.
In some cases, the installation of a thermal insulation layer is not carried out, then you can limit yourself to wind and moisture protection, on top of which the lathing is attached and the panels are installed. This option is especially relevant when installing indoors.
Main requirements for installation work
The block house is fastened using a tongue-and-groove system on the panels. At the first stage, the material has to be prepared. So, if the installation is supposed to be carried out indoors, then it must undergo adaptation inside the building within 24 hours. This is necessary to balance the moisture in the material.
It is preferable to treat the canvas with an antiseptic before the installation process.
Fastening should be carried out to a pre-installed sheathing, which is made of wooden blocks mounted at a certain distance. The main requirement for the installation process of a block house is that the panels are fastened with the tenons facing up. This is necessary in order to prevent the accumulation of moisture in the grooves during operation. The sheathing should be leveled using a level and plumb line, otherwise the entire work will have to be redone due to misalignment.
When attaching the panels from below and above, it is necessary to leave a technological gap, the width of which should be approximately 50 mm, which is necessary for natural ventilation. Moreover, a gap of 1-3 mm wide must be provided between the boards, which will avoid deformation during seasonal humidity and temperature fluctuations.
Before attaching the block, it is important to determine what fasteners to use; installation can be done using nails or self-tapping screws. The decision will be made depending on the board used. If the thickness of the sheet is no more than 21 mm, you can use nails; for larger sizes, it is preferable to use self-tapping screws. The main thing to consider when choosing fasteners is its length and coating. So, you should use fasteners that have an anti-corrosion coating, this can be galvanized or anodized material. This will prevent the occurrence of corrosion processes on the canvases during operation. But as for the length of the fastener, it should be 1.5 times the thickness of the material.
The block can be mounted vertically or horizontally, this will depend on interior solutions and personal preferences. As a rule, a block house is attached horizontally to the facade of a building, which makes it possible to obtain an imitation of a log house, but interior decoration is most often done by vertically arranging the panels. The fastening elements are also brackets, which are called clamps. This method installation is usually used in the process interior decoration when thin and narrow products are used.
You can start the fastening process either from the bottom or from the top. If the work involves using particularly thick sheets, the width of which exceeds 40 mm, then to fasten them you can use 2 screws for each board; one of the screws can be secured at the tenon, the other at the groove. In this case, for self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled in advance, the diameter of which must exceed the head of the fastener; after the hole, it must be additionally closed using a plug.
Before fixing the house block mechanically the canvases should be connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. During the installation process, the block house will certainly have to be joined at the outer corners; for this, it will be necessary to make a gash at an angle of 45°, as alternative solution You can use the outer corner; it is permissible to use slats in its role.
Less labor intensive and more in a simple way corner design will be a method in which in the right place You should nail a block to which the block house panels will fit at an angle of 90°.
If the house block is to be mounted indoors, the conditions of which are characterized by high humidity, it will be necessary to ensure air flow from the opposite side of the panels.
In order to extend the service life of the cladding and give its surface a deeper and richer color, the boards can be further processed. To do this, the surface should be primed and then covered with a wax-based varnish, which can be replaced with colorless paint. The surface will then need to be sanded and covered with 2 more layers of varnish. Periodically paintwork will need to be updated. Despite the fact that the installation of a block house is quite labor-intensive, you can install the panels yourself.
It immediately becomes clear that this lumber is very difficult. The planks are quite massive, the front surface is rounded, longitudinal grooves are made on the back side, and a tenon and groove are cut out on the edges.
However, the intricate cross-section of the planks, imitating a rounded log, should not be intimidating. In fact, installing a block house is generally no more difficult than working with the same lining. As practice shows, home craftsmen can easily cope with this task. As for homeowners without the necessary skills, they quickly understand the technology and can properly monitor the actions of hired builders. Let's look at everything in order.
1. Material calibration.
We strongly recommend that you carefully go through the entire blockhouse before starting the sheathing. Our task is to identify in advance boards with defective locks, critical defects on the front surface, damage and contamination. It is also worth setting aside items that are too curved.
Almost all of the “substandard” can be used after cutting in the form of short parts, and it can also be used on walls that are least visible.
2. Acclimatization of the material.
The rule is simple: before installation, any lumber must be kept for a day or two in the conditions in which it will be used. For example, when covering the facade, a blockhouse from a heated garage should be taken outside under a canopy and freed from the packaging film.
3. Protective impregnation of materials.
All wooden elements It is highly desirable to protect your home from pests. Good antiseptics help resist both fungi and insects. An even more effective class of impregnations is “fire-bioprotective”, which, among other things, significantly reduces the flammability of wood. Cladding a house with a block house will cause the price of work to increase slightly, but durability and safety will improve significantly. Each board should be processed separately, so protective composition will fall on both the tenon and the groove of the product. Pirilax-Classic paint is best suited for this purpose. Please note that it makes sense to process not only the block house, but also the beams for the frame and the load-bearing wall.
4. Assembly of full-fledged scaffolding.
4. When working on the facade, take the time to create convenient scaffolding and scaffolding over the entire wall area. Ideally, it is better to cover two adjacent walls with scaffolding so that the interface of the planes can be properly designed. If you use grade 2 boards or TU timber as blanks, the scaffolding will be quite reliable, but inexpensive. We recommend an article on the rules for assembling scaffolding Construction of scaffolding from coniferous wood. When installing scaffolding near walls, leave 30 centimeters of free space to make installation convenient.
5. Diagnosis of the wall plane.
Even before the actual assembly of the frame, the wall must be hung. The task is to find deviations of the plane from the vertical and other irregularities. A plumb line is best suited for this. It is necessary to attach pins to the wall at the top and bottom, on which markings are made along a plumb line.
Nylon cords are usually used as beacons on the facade. They are fixed horizontally on pins so that the frame bars then barely touch the threads of their outer surface. Sometimes beacons are made after installing the two outer beams of the frame and fixed on the surface of the lumber.
It is important to immediately provide the necessary distance from the base so that insulation of the required thickness can be installed behind the racks (or between the racks).
7. Marking the location of frame elements on the wall.
Task: to designate the lines for placing the beams on which the blockhouse is then laid. To do this, it is best to use a chop cord.
8. Fixing the brackets.
In some cases, you can use a gypsum board suspension (this is a good option, if the frame is made of galvanized profiles for gypsum boards). But it is better to give preference to sliding corners. The spacing of the brackets is on average about 0.75-1 meters; they are attached to anchors (dowels and nails) or to self-tapping cap screws - if the load-bearing base is made of wood.
9. Aligning the frame posts.
Frame beams (usually I use lumber 50 mm thick and 50-75 mm wide) must stand vertically, since the block house must be fastened in a horizontal direction. First, the outer racks are fixed, and then the intermediate ones. On the facade, a distance of 500 to 800 mm is maintained between the beams; indoors, where thinner cladding material is used, the spacing of the racks is from 400 to 600 mm. The frame bars must be brought to the beacon threads and secured with self-tapping screws to the brackets. It is imperative to leave a gap of 10 centimeters or more between the lower end of the beam and the blind area/basement.
10. Installation of insulating materials.
It is advisable to buy insulation in the form of slabs, high density, which will ensure the stability of its original shape throughout its entire service life or polystyrene foam for concrete base. They are attached either to the base behind the frame (which is preferable) with special fasteners - a disc-shaped dowel (fungus), or they are pushed apart between the posts frame structure. To protect insulated walls from moisture and wind, the entire pie from the outside must be covered with construction film - for this there are special facade canvases, with the principle membrane tissue. When creating a ventilated facade, spacer strips with a thickness of about 30-40 mm are screwed onto the subsystem racks on top.
11. Correct orientation and fixation of the first plank.
The first cladding element must be positioned strictly horizontally; for this you should use a magnetic level (or laser level) - which will help you find the two extreme control points. It is most convenient to start installing a blockhouse from the bottom of the wall, but sometimes craftsmen prefer to start from the roof/ceiling down - so that in the upper, clearly visible part of the tiled plane, all the planks are without longitudinal trimming. It is very important to secure the sheathing with the groove down and the tenon up. This technology for laying a block house allows you to avoid rainwater from getting into the locks of the false walls.
12. Installation of the remaining planks.
There are several ways to perform fastening, but the price of finishing a block house will not change much. Most often, nails are driven through a tenon so that the head of the fastener overlaps the groove of the next plank. You can also use “finishing” nails here. Another option is to fasten the block house to the wall using clamps, which are indispensable if the frame is made of metal. You can work the old fashioned way: drill countersunk front side and drive the fasteners through the body, and then mask the hardware with wooden plugs.
The instructions for finishing a block house with your own hands are reminiscent of the technology for installing planken or other finishing material. Before you decide to cover the walls of your house with a blockhouse, you need to familiarize yourself with existing species material and rules for its fastening.
Types of wooden material and its choice
The semicircular shape of the blockhouse imitates a natural wooden frame. For interior and exterior work, there is a specific type of material, which primarily differs in thickness.
The external cladding of the house is made with boards 40-45 mm thick. Firstly, in addition to aesthetic functions, the blockhouse provides the building with additional heat and sound insulation. Secondly, street cladding is more susceptible to the harmful effects of natural phenomena. The tree will be in the rain, sun rays, severe frosts. To endure everything unfavourable conditions, a thicker board is needed.
For interior works a thinner blockhouse of 20-24 mm is used. It is mainly intended for interior decoration. Inside the house, extra thickness of finishing will only reduce the space in the rooms.
The blockhouse is made from different types of wood and is divided into several classes:
The walls inside the house are decorated with a class “A” or “Extra” blockhouse. The most common is class “A”, since sheathed walls acquire more natural look wooden log house. Monolithic cladding from the “Extra” class faintly resembles natural wood.
Do outdoor installation necessary from the “B” or “C” class board. Here the choice depends on the owner’s finances and his preferences.
Difference in fastening
Depending on the installation location, the blockhouse has different methods fastenings:
Manufacturing of sheathing
When installing a house block inside a house, there is no need to install a frame. An exception can only be for a building with uneven walls. But for finishing the walls outside, you can’t do without lathing. One of the main functions of the structure is to create a flat surface for attaching panels and additional laying of insulation.
useful in work
When covering the walls of a house wooden block Houses usually have vertical sheathing; if you want to arrange the panels of the house block vertically, you will need horizontal-vertical lathing, which will lead to higher prices.
In natural wooden log houses, the logs are positioned only horizontally. The panels will be fixed to the frame in the same way.
The frame can be made from different materials. First stage The work consists of marking the walls. Starting from the very long wall at home, a fishing line is pulled along the level in the upper part. Using a plumb line, level and fix the fishing line along the wall on the lower part. Having aligned the line so that the wall is not blocked, they begin to mount the frame elements.
Wooden frame
This type of lathing is mainly installed to secure a wooden blockhouse on a log building. In the manufacture of a wooden frame, bars measuring 40x40 mm or planks measuring 20x50 mm are used. Just like the entire log house, they are treated with an antiseptic. The installation of the first element is done along a vertically stretched fishing line, the rest are placed horizontally at a distance of 400-600 mm from each other. If it is necessary to level the bars, wooden pads are placed under them. The structure is fixed to the wall of a wooden frame with self-tapping screws or nails.
If it is necessary to create a reinforced structure, additional beams are attached perpendicular to the main joists. The resulting counter-lattice method strengthens the frame, but also increases material consumption, which affects additional costs. 
Metal carcass
Metal lathing is made from galvanized profile. To a greater extent, it is installed to decorate the outside of the building. As a finishing material for metal carcass install a metal house block and siding. According to the markings, spacers are attached to the wall (a metal strip that allows you to attach the profile from the wall at a distance of up to 120 mm, they are also called a crab, hanger or bracket) and bend them in the shape of the letter P along the cross section of the profile. The installation procedure for all elements is the same as in wooden frame. Only the process of aligning elements by level and plane differs. No pads are placed under the profile. It is leveled and fixed to the spacers. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the profile.
For your information
Usage profile frame under siding or a metal blockhouse allows you to create a ventilated facade.
The distance between the vertical elements is maintained at 350-500 mm, this is due not only to the strength characteristics of the material, but to the size of the insulation boards. Depending on the thickness of the profile, it can be very flexible, in which case the structure must be reinforced with additional horizontal profiles. 
Plastic frame
On modern market appeared the new kind material – plastic profile. His load bearing capacity higher than its galvanized counterpart. It is easy to install: it is attached to the walls of a wooden frame with self-tapping screws. The main requirement is to install the profile only on a flat surface. If the walls of the house are uneven, then a plastic profile for making a frame will not be suitable.
Fastening the block house to the frame
Having made and secured the sheathing to the walls, the main process of cladding the house begins. When starting to install a block house with your own hands, you need to remember that, regardless of the material, it is laid only horizontally, from bottom to top.
Wooden panels
Installation wood panels the most complex and expensive. The following methods of fastening the board are mainly used: 
- Fixing the board with a clamp ensures a strong connection of the board using the tongue-and-groove system. The clamp is a metal strip, one side of which is inserted into the groove of the panel, and the other side is screwed with a self-tapping screw to the sheathing joist. The gap between the boards caused by the clamps is sealed with a special paste that imitates the color of wood;
- The second method of fixation is performed with nails or self-tapping screws. They are carefully driven into the “tenon” of the board and nailed to the joist;
- A similar method of fastening into a “spike” nail boards or use a self-tapping screw to make it at an angle of 45°. This option is characterized by increased strength of material fixation but requires additional skills. Due to inexperience, you can break off the “thorn” and ruin the panel;
- The through fastening of the blockhouse is done with nails or self-tapping screws. A hole is drilled through the panel and fixed to the joist so that the head of the fastener sinks into the wood. It is convenient to make a “sink” for the cap using a countersink. You can make your own countersink from a drill sharpened at an angle of 90° or 120°. The hole is hidden from above with a wooden plug, which is then sanded;
- The outdated type of panels without a tongue-and-groove system is fixed through through holes or with a special adhesive composition indoors.
To hide the joints in the corners of the log house, grooves are cut out for the panel boards. A simpler option provides top mount decorative slats with glue. A beautiful connection is obtained by sawing the edge of the board at an angle of 90°. Door finishing and window openings made with a variety of platbands.
Metal panels
A good option for wall decoration is metal siding in the form of panels made for a blockhouse. The panels are usually installed outside to decorate the building. They are fixed on a frame made of metal profile stainless steel self-tapping screws through longitudinal holes. Between the elements of the sheathing, insulation is laid from mineral wool or polystyrene foam. A vapor barrier film is stretched over the top and only then the panels are installed. Finishing corners and hiding all joints is done with additional additional elements.
Advice from the “façade designer”
If you like the vertical direction of the cladding, then a metal house block will be the way out of the situation. It can be mounted not only horizontally, but also vertically.
Plastic siding
A type of plastic material for a blockhouse is made in the form of siding. Wide range of acrylic and vinyl panels makes it possible to arrange them when facing the house. Plastic siding is fixed in the same way as metal panels - with stainless steel screws into special grooves that are located on the purchased panels.
Choose those panels that were used in the manufacturing process. special materials non-flammable.
At external cladding walls between the siding elements make a temperature gap of about 2 mm. It protects the material from splitting when thermal expansion. This is due to the difference weather conditions. The siding is loosely screwed to the sheathing, maintaining a gap of 1 mm. The presence of numerous gaps in the cladding negatively affects the insulation of the building. Using plastic sheathing under the siding will help avoid this.
The plastic profile will be deformed due to temperature changes along with the siding. Therefore, they can be rigidly fastened without maintaining any gaps. To hide the gaps between siding elements, additional elements are used. By following the instructions, you can easily make the lathing yourself, insulate the walls and install the block house yourself.