The times are far gone in the past when the ceiling in a house or apartment was simply whitewashed, renewing the coating every year. Now exists a large number of building materials that will allow you to create a beautiful cladding of the room.

This article, illustrated with a photo, tells how to decorate the ceiling in an apartment. The instructions will be especially useful for those who want to do all the work themselves.

A variety of materials - their features and basic installation rules

Finishing the ceilings in an apartment is a simple process. The main thing is to choose one or another facing material. Let's look at the main options for finishing the ceiling in an apartment and the use of various products.

Choosing wallpaper

Wallpaper has been used for a long time.

And the reason for such popularity of this material is as follows:

• Not high price;
• ease of pasting.

Advice. Before wallpapering, it is necessary to level the surface, and also to properly seal all the cracks and holes, and the joints between the floor slabs. This is necessary because the wallpaper itself is very thin, and therefore even the slightest unevenness in the ceiling will be visible under it.

The wallpaper itself should be chosen depending on what type of room is being renovated:

• Ordinary paper wallpaper is suitable for the corridor;
• For the kitchen, so-called glass wallpaper is best suited.

This coating has a lot of positive characteristics:

• hide surface unevenness;
• have a reinforcing property;
• durability;
• fire safety;
• moisture resistance;
• Possibility of multiple dyeing.

Advice. The choice of wallpaper color depends on the overall interior design of a particular room. However, experts recommend paying attention to models that can subsequently be repainted many times. Thus, when changing the interior design, you will not have to change the ceiling covering, but will only need to repaint it.

Choosing polystyrene panels

The methods for finishing ceilings in an apartment are varied. For example, everyone more people used for this purpose polystyrene panels.

This material has a rich range of colors and can be:

• white;
• blue;
• green;
• pink;
• cream, etc.

And this is not to mention these types of products that almost perfectly imitate natural materials:

• tree;
• metal;
• stone, etc.

However, polystyrene panels have one very negative point, which is that they are very difficult to glue. It is extremely difficult to carry out this work independently, especially without experience in carrying out repairs.

Before you start gluing the surface with panels, you need to prepare it by removing and sealing:

• cracks;
• joints;
• protrusions, etc.

After all, even if one panel is glued a little unevenly, then all subsequent ones will be “skewed.”

Choosing stretch ceilings

If we are talking about the kitchen, then in this case all of the above types of ceiling finishing in the apartment will not be relevant, which is due to the fact that both wallpaper and polystyrene panels absorb dirt, and it is very difficult to wash such material.

In the kitchen, there is a constant release of soot and moisture, which settles on the ceiling and pollutes it.

Installation of tension structure

The optimal solution in this situation would be a suspended ceiling. Experienced craftsmen will complete the installation quite quickly, literally in a day, since installation tension material there is no need to carefully treat the surface.

The installation itself is not a dusty job, and therefore you don’t have to worry that you will have to spend a long time cleaning and cleaning the room. After all, to install the tension facing material Only a few holes need to be drilled.

1. First, the frame is mounted - for its manufacture it is necessary to use a metal profile, which is attached to the ceiling using a quick installation system.
2. After creating the frame, immediately distribute the wiring - this is especially important if you plan to install built-in lamps, through which it is easy to zone the room.
3. Next, you can begin installing the drywall sheets. If you are still going to install spotlights, then holes for them are drilled in the drywall after it is fixed to the metal profile frame.
4. Sheets of material are also attached using self-tapping screws.
5. After all the sheets are fixed, they are carried out, which involves plastering and painting with water-based paint.

Advice. If you are making a figured ceiling or multi-level ceiling with various shaped elements, they should be cut out in advance.

That's all! The plasterboard ceiling is ready - it is really beautiful, durable and incredibly stylish.

It also allows you to hide wiring or other communications, such as:

• Internet cords;
• cable television cords;
• pipes and cords for air conditioning and much more.

In conclusion

The article presents the main options for cladding ceilings with certain materials. As you can see, only the installation of so-called suspended ceilings will require you to hire specialists, while all other materials can be easily installed with your own hands.

In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

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How to decorate a ceiling in a residential area: a review of current solutions and methods for their implementation

Hello. In this article I will tell you how to decorate the ceiling in a house or apartment. I am sure the topic will be of interest to many compatriots who are planning a major or redecorating your real estate. After all, despite the abundance of floor finishing methods, it is not easy to decide on the best option.

What determines the choice of finish?

You may be interested in how the ceiling is decorated in Berlin, Paris or other major cities world, but often the choice of the optimal option depends not only on fashion trends, but also from other factors.

Among them I will note the following:

• The state of the ceiling, namely, the degree of its preservation;
• Type of ceiling, namely, what materials are used and what technologies are used to make the ceiling;
• The height of the ceiling and, as a result, the ability to lower the ceiling without compromising the comfort of living;
• Features of the operation of the premises, namely, seasonality of residence, the presence of heating in the cold season, the degree of moisture content in the air, etc.;
• Budget of funds allocated for repair work;
• Time allowed for repair work.

So, I have listed the main factors influencing the choice of finishing method ceiling. If you are interested in a particular finishing method, consider its characteristics taking into account the listed factors and it will be clear whether it is suitable or not.

The most common methods of finishing ceilings

I would like to note right away that almost all of the methods listed in the table can be done with your own hands using an available tool. Let's look at each of the listed finishing options in more detail.

Plastering the floor

Perhaps this is the most common method, which has been successfully used for a long time. Plastering technology involves applying a certain amount special mixture onto the surface to be finished and subsequent leveling of the applied layer.

Based on the material used to perform the work, there are two types of plastering:

• Roughing - when a mixture with large filler grains is applied to a relief surface;
• Finishing – when the finely dispersed mixture covers the microrelief on the dried layer of rough plaster.

What are the pros and cons of technology in terms of self-execution ceiling finishing?

Among the advantages I note the following:

• Availability and relatively low price of ready-made mixtures;
• Opportunity self-cooking mixtures;
• General reinforcement of the floor;
• The versatility of the technology, since the correctly selected mixture sticks to most floors.

However, there are also disadvantages, including:

• The process is labor intensive, even when using guide beacons;
• In order to count on an optimal result, impressive experience in performing plastering work is required;
• Long project implementation time.

In order to make it clear how the ceiling is plastered, I offer a short photo report with explanations for each stage:

• First, using a level and a cord, the lowest point on the ceiling is determined;

• In accordance with this point, guide beacons are installed on the surface to be finished;

• The plaster mixture is prepared strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions;
• Using a plaster trowel, the solution is applied to the ceiling in a layer protruding slightly beyond the surface of the beacons;

• The rule is installed with its edges on the beacons and drawn towards itself, as a result of which the applied layer is leveled;

• After pulling out the mixture, small gaps remain on the surface; they need to be filled with the mixture and pulled out again using the rule;
• After the entire overlap has been completed, wait until the mixture completely dries;

• The mixture for finishing leveling is prepared and applied to the prepared surface with a trowel;

• After the finishing layer has completely dried, the surface is sanded with a paint float;
• After sanding is completed, the scratched ceiling is primed and painted.

By the way, I forgot to tell you about the most serious drawback of plastered ceilings - they are sensitive to temperature changes and excess humidity air. If the room is heated irregularly, there is a high probability of pigment spots and mold appearing in the corners and along the perimeter where the ceiling meets the walls.

Sheathing with plasterboard

The next equally popular option is a plasterboard ceiling. This method has many advantages, including:

• Possibility of assembling not only single-level, but also multi-level structures;
• Unlimited possibilities in choosing architectural forms;
• Possibility to hide various communications in the ceiling cladding;
• Simplicity and short time frame construction.

By the way, there are practically no disadvantages of this technology that you need to pay attention to. Intrigued? In this case, I suggest you learn about how to finish the ceiling with plasterboard.

The finishing instructions are not complicated:

• A level is set around the perimeter of the room with an indentation of at least 4 cm from the lowest point of the ceiling;

In previous articles I told you why exactly 4 cm, but I’ll repeat it again. The thickness of the guide profile is 3 cm and another 1 cm is left to grip the profile when you align it on the hangers.

• At the knocked-off level along the perimeter of the walls, a CD profile is attached to dowel-nails;
• Along long wall Markings are made along the surface of the rough ceiling along which guide profiles are attached;

• The profiles are aligned along the cord and fixed with hangers;
• If necessary, sound and heat insulating material is placed in the gaps between the guide profiles;
• At the same stage, wiring is laid between the profile up to lighting equipment or other communications;

• The installed profiles are sheathed with plasterboard, which is attached in separate fragments using self-tapping screws;
• After the ceiling is sheathed, the seams are trimmed and aligned;

• The prepared seams are filled with putty and glued with reinforcing mesh;
• The entire coating is puttied and then sanded while regularly checking the evenness of the ceiling;
• Once sanding is complete, the ceiling is completely ready for painting.

Particle board cladding

This type of floor finishing is best option for use in the countryside

This technique is not much different from the previous instructions, only instead of lightweight drywall, particleboard or oriented strand boards are used.

What explains the choice of such material? In truth, plasterboard is superior to particle board in all respects. Therefore, it can be assumed that OSB and chipboard are used as ceiling cladding if it is not possible to buy drywall or there is not enough experience to work with it.

Although such conclusions are doubtful, since GCR ultimately does not more expensive than slabs OSB, and working with it is much easier.

Among the disadvantages of particle board used as floor covering, I note the following:

• High emission of formaldehyde, especially for chipboard;
• The large weight of the slab and, as a result, the load on the supporting frame;
• Complex finishing, since leveling putties on particle boards ah are held with difficulty;
• Despite the label “moisture resistant”, any particle board is destroyed in conditions of high humidity, and therefore such materials are not recommended for installation in a bathroom or bathhouse.

Are there any advantages to particle boards that make these materials worth using as cladding?

The only advantage is the appearance of OSB, which will be combined with the same wall decoration. But once again I would like to draw your attention to the high emission of formaldehyde, and therefore such materials are either additionally puttied and the appearance is lost, or are not installed in residential premises.

Plywood sheathing

This finishing option is not as popular as plaster or using drywall.

The main reason that ceilings are rarely sheathed with plywood is the high price quality material and the need for experience finishing works. That is, anyone can attach it to the sheathing, but only qualified installers can do it so that the surface looks like a single whole without traces of fastening elements and inter-plate seams.

What is good about plywood used as finishing material? Plywood is environmentally friendly pure material, made from wood veneer. Plywood is distinguished by a low degree of formaldehyde emission in comparison with particle boards.

Due to the fact that veneer is used in production, the surface finished with plywood looks like solid wood. This type of ceiling cladding does not have unpleasant odor, characteristic of vinyl lining and suspended ceilings. However, plywood is rarely used for finishing apartments and still remains a choice for furnishing a country house.

How is the ceiling covered with plywood? There are two common ways:

• Stuffing wooden sheathing and installing slabs on self-tapping screws;
• Installation of slabs directly on the ceiling, provided that it is sufficiently level, dry and dense.

The first method is good because by installing the sheathing you can compensate for unevenness of the floor. This is done by placing pieces of plywood under the sheathing at the site of the failure.

In addition, as when installing drywall and other board materials, you can lay in the gap between the ceiling or plywood insulating materials and communications. Thus, covering the ceiling with plywood is not only environmentally friendly and beautiful, but also functional.

Application of plastic panels

Plastic panels are the first polymer, that is synthetic material in our review. And despite the fact that the material is synthetic, it is becoming more and more popular every year. Why?

There are several reasons, including:

• Affordable price, since plastic panels are much cheaper than other materials listed in the review;
• A wide range of panels available for sale, that is, you can buy both wide and narrow monochrome and color modifications;
• Light weight of the panels and, as a result, low load on the supporting frame;
• The panels are resistant to excess humidity in the air, which means they can be installed in kitchens and bathrooms;
• Simplicity and concise installation.

To make it clear how easy it is to work with plastic panels, I’ll tell you about the instructions for covering the ceiling with your own hands.

The installation instructions are as follows:

• On the ceiling, the most protruding section is determined, and relative to this section along the perimeter a level is marked for the thickness of the guide profile;
• We fasten the profiles at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other with the expectation that they should be located across the intended direction of the panels;

• Along the perimeter of the room, along the lower edge of the fixed profiles, we attach the initial strips (a profile with a groove into which the end of the panels fits) using glue or dowel-nails;

• We insert the panels with a tenon into the initial plank, while simultaneously inserting the ends into the side planks;

• We fasten the panels to the profiles with self-tapping screws from the groove side, as shown in the photo;

• The last panel is cut longitudinally along the contour of the wall with a gap of about 12 cm and attached to the profile;

• A longitudinally trimmed initial strip is attached on top of the last panel.

Agree that covering the ceiling with plastic panels is not at all difficult and you can probably handle it.

Are there any disadvantages of plastic panels that you should be aware of before installation?

PVC panels may become deformed when exposed to high temperatures. However, this is not a drawback and nevertheless lighting need to be hung so that closely spaced lamps do not melt the surface. With the advent of new types of lighting equipment with less heat generation, this problem is becoming less pressing.

Another feature of plastic panels is zero vapor permeability. Thus, during the cold season, condensation appears in the bathroom. Therefore, in rooms with humid air, if plastic panels are used, it is advisable to equip effective system ventilation.

Finishing the floor with wooden paneling

Now that you know how to decorate a ceiling with plastic panels, I’ll tell you about the use of an externally similar material - wooden lining.

Wooden lining, unlike plastic panels, has not become particularly widespread in the arrangement of city apartments. However, this material is widely used for finishing ceilings in dachas and country houses.

Structurally, lining is similar to plastic panels, which is why the panels are often mistakenly called lining.

There is a tenon on one edge of the lining, and a groove on the other side. During assembly, the tenon of one panel is inserted into the groove of another panel, resulting in assembled structure differs in tightness.

As in the case of plastic panels, communications and insulating materials can be installed behind the lining. This is more than relevant if the ceiling in a private house is cold or noisy neighbors live in the apartment on the floor above.

Along with numerous advantages, lining has a couple of significant disadvantages, including low resistance to temperature changes, excess humidity and biological factors. The lining is made of wood, and wood becomes deformed due to frequent temperature fluctuations, becomes damp due to excess humidity, and rots due to the influence of biological factors.

To prevent damage to the wood, it is advisable to prepare the lining before installation, namely, soak it with antiseptic preparations, and cover it with a layer of varnish on top. Of course, in a room decorated with wooden lining, it is desirable to maintain uniform temperature and humidity levels.

Ceiling tiles with plastic tiles

If you are faced with the question of how you can very inexpensively decorate the ceiling on the balcony, in the kitchen or in other auxiliary rooms, plastic tiles- this is an excellent solution.

Plastic tiles are square or rectangular plates made of PVC. The surface of the plates can have different factors, it can be single-color or colored. Finishing light material, and therefore installation is carried out by gluing directly to the ceiling surface.

When choosing this method of arranging building surfaces, you need to take into account that plastic boards are unable to hide the topography of the base on which the installation is being carried out, so the surface must be initially flat.

Along with the slabs, a wide range of glues are available for sale. The adhesive is selected according to the type of mounting surface. The resource of finishing slabs is limited only by the holding capacity of the glue.

Among the significant disadvantages of the method, I note that the slabs become dirty over time and, due to the complex terrain and sagging surface, it is not so easy to wash them. In addition, most of the adhesive compositions adapted for working with this material are characterized by high adhesion, and therefore the glued slabs can be removed by tearing them off with the “meat”.

Stretch ceiling over a rough base

Another current method Floor finishing is the installation of suspended ceilings. Among the advantages of the method, I note the following:

• Possibility of installation with any types of ceilings;
• The minimum gap between the canvas and the ceiling is 20 mm, which means installation in a room with a low ceiling is allowed;
• Durability of the coating despite the small thickness of the canvas;
• Possibility of installing lighting fixtures in the ceiling;
• Wide range of colors and textures;
• Ease of maintenance, as all are modern stretch ceiling antistatic and dust does not accumulate on them;
• Affordable price compared to other materials.

Are there any disadvantages inherent to this finishing method?

The only drawback is a specific unpleasant odor in the first week after installation. Therefore, I recommend ordering the installation of vinyl ceilings in the warm season, when the windows in the room can be kept open all the time. I repeat once again within 5-7 days the unpleasant smell of plastic goes away completely.

How is vinyl ceiling installed?

I would like to point out right away that you can decorate the ceiling with your own hands. different materials, but stretch vinyl structures are purchased to order and their installation is carried out by specialists.

Why? Well, at least because when installing a ceiling with a standard tool that is available in household, not enough.

In order for the canvas to heat up evenly over the entire area and sag, a heat gun is used, which does not make sense to buy for a one-time ceiling installation. By the way, replace the hairdryer heat gun can not.

In addition, proper installation of the canvas requires appropriate experience. While the film is still heated, you must quickly stretch it and hook it on the profile, which cannot be done without proper skill.

And finally, ceilings are made only to order according to the size of a particular room. Therefore, it most likely will not be possible to buy a ready-made canvas for self-installation.

Conclusion

Now that you know how and with what to finish the ceiling, you can choose the best option for arranging a particular room.

What can I recommend? Personally, I like plasterboard finishing and suspended ceilings. The reasons why I prefer these finishes are listed earlier.

I hope you will also decide on your opinion about how to decorate the ceiling in the apartment. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments to the article, I will definitely answer.

November 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

When planning a renovation, every owner asks the question: how to decorate the ceiling? Previously, this problem was solved simply: the surface could be whitewashed, painted or wallpapered. But today these options are considered only if they want to save as much as possible on repairs. The widest range of modern facing materials makes you think, because people's tastes and preferences have changed dramatically.

Options for finishing ceilings in residential premises

With all the variety of choices of facing materials, there are not so many ways to finish the ceiling - in particular, these are:

• painting;
• whitewash;
• wallpapering;
• pasting with polyurethane (foam) tiles;
• finishing with liquid wallpaper;
• facing with decorative plaster;
• device suspended ceiling;
• installation of stretch ceiling.

Whitewashing the ceiling is one of the fastest and inexpensive ways

The first four options are optimal if repairs need to be done quickly and at the lowest financial cost. All these methods (whitewashing, painting, wallpapering or foam tiles) are easy to perform. But here too there are difficulties.

1. You need to know how to properly prepare the ceiling surface for the application or installation of facing material.
2. You also need to know the rules for working with this material.
3. It is necessary to decide which type of finish is optimal for rooms with normal and high humidity, in heated and unheated rooms.

Yes, for country houses the best choice– painting, whitewashing, wallpapering. The kitchen and bathroom will require moisture-resistant paints, panels and tiles. The maximum possible flavor of comfort and presentability will be provided by more expensive finishing methods: installing suspended or suspended ceilings, applying decorative plaster. All of them are not only the most spectacular room design options, but also the most labor-intensive.

When deciding how to decorate the ceiling, you need to take into account the condition of its surface. If it is uneven and has many flaws, it is better to cover it with hanging or tension structures than to prepare it for painting or wallpapering. In some cases, this will not only give the room modern style, but also save money.

Having decided on the finishing option, you can begin choosing the facing material. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the features of the room being renovated: purpose, humidity level, degree natural light(solar). Next, proceed in accordance with the step-by-step instructions for installing the selected finishing material.

How to paint a ceiling correctly

Painting the ceiling will certainly highlight all its irregularities. Therefore, the requirements for surface quality are the highest. It should be understood that the cost estimate will need to include the cost of not only paint, but also primer.

In addition, you will need to buy:

• brushes;
• roller;
• paint tray;
• putty;
• spatulas (metal and rubber).

Painting or whitewashing the ceiling will cost less than installing suspended or tension structures. However, you need to prepare for the fact that the finishing process will not be easy. All work performed at height and on upper floors is labor-intensive.

The use of a spray gun (included in the package of vacuum cleaners of older models) will make the task easier. But in this case you will need cover for walls and furniture - polyethylene film, fabric or paper. Another important point when using paint: eye and respiratory protection. In this regard, high-quality ventilation of the room must be ensured.

You can also use a spray gun to paint the ceiling. In the photo - HAMMER PRZ150A spray gun

Paint selection

The main task in this type of repair is the correct choice of paint. For ceilings, water-emulsion or water-dispersion ones are often used. It is not difficult to understand the peculiarity of these compositions: coatings of the first group (water-based) are washed off with water, the second group is not.

An important characteristic of any paint is the degree of moisture resistance. This parameter is usually indicated on the container label. You definitely need to pay attention to it, otherwise there is a risk of buying some kind of paint for dry rooms to decorate the ceiling in the bathroom. This error will lead to peeling and cracking of the coating, which will require redoing the work performed.

• water-emulsion or water-dispersion;
• based acrylic resins;
• silicate;
• silicone.

Surface preparation technology for painting

Step 1. Remove old finishing coating: paint, wallpaper or tiles. To complete the task you will need a spatula with metal sheet. Close attention is paid to plaster. You need to check how tightly it holds and remove all loose particles.

Step 2. Seal seams and cracks with putty or cement-sand mortar.

Step 3. Using a broom, brush or rag, sweep away the remains of small particles of plaster, paint or wallpaper.

Step 4. Apply the first coat of primer. It is needed to ensure the strongest possible adhesion of the paint to the surface of the upper floor. In addition, the primer composition allows you to even out minor imperfections, which provides a more impressive look after painting.

Step 5. Before applying paint, masking tape is applied around the perimeter of the ceiling along the walls. It will protect the walls from accidental strokes and smudges.

Rules for performing work

The paint application process is simple and straightforward. But there are rules that will help you do the job efficiently and avoid such troubles as unsightly stains and gaps in the plaster.

First of all, you need to understand that the approach to painting surfaces with a roller and a brush is different. When applying paint with a brush, try to hold it at an angle of 35°-40° and make strokes evenly, in one direction. In order to evaluate the quality of the work performed, they move away to a distance of 1.5-2 meters and, tilting their heads 30°-40°, look at the painted surface. If gaps are visible, apply an additional layer of paint.

When using a roller, the layers are applied next to each other so that each next overlaps the previous one by 5-7 cm. When applying the second layer, the direction of the strokes should be perpendicular to the first. This will avoid gaps in the plaster. Painting hard-to-reach places is done with a brush.

The basic rules for working with a brush and roller are given below.

1. To apply the first layer, use more than liquid composition(water-emulsion and water-dispersion ones are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10).
2. In order to avoid gaps and streaks, the first layer of paint is applied in W-shaped strokes.
3. A common mistake when painting a ceiling is to press the brush or roller too hard. You need to understand that best result can be achieved by applying the first stroke in a fairly thick layer, which is subsequently spread across the ceiling with equal pressure from the working tool.

Video - How to paint a ceiling with your own hands

Ceiling finishing with decorative plaster

Applying decorative plaster is an effective way to decorate a room. It allows you to transform a room quickly and with minimal material costs. But you will have to work hard: plastering is not an easy process.

The variety of textures of decorative plaster allows you to find exactly the type of ceiling decoration that will highlight the style of the room. When choosing a composition, it is necessary to take into account the type of surface to be treated. If the ceiling is wooden or plasterboard, hygroscopic mixtures cannot be used. In this case, compositions based on polymers or acrylic are optimal.

When choosing decorative plaster, it is important to consider its environmental friendliness. This parameter is especially important if the finishing is done in a room intended for children. In this case, it is recommended to choose mixtures based on cement, lime, minerals, and marble chips.

Types of decorative plaster

The composition of decorative plaster includes a filler, additives, and a binder. Additives are needed to give the product certain properties: antiseptic, water-repellent, bactericidal. Depending on the type of binder, the following types of plaster are distinguished.

1. Mineral. Made from cement and lime mixtures, traditionally used for outdoor work. A well-known representative of this group is decorative plaster"Bark beetle."
2. Polymer. Mixtures of this type are made on the basis of acrylic resins. Such coatings are highly moisture resistant and can withstand sudden temperature changes. The composition includes additives that provide plasticity.
3. Silicate. In these mixtures the binder is liquid glass. Plasters of this type are not flexible, but are ideal for decorating complex surfaces with cavities and height differences. Often used to finish concrete ceilings.
4. Silicone. Made on the basis of silicone, the composition includes a fine filler: marble or sandstone chips. These mixtures are durable and have dust-repellent properties.

Acrylic-based decorative plaster is an excellent choice for finishing ceilings in rooms with high level humidity: in the bathroom, swimming pool or kitchen. Thanks to the excellent plasticity of such plaster, they create very beautiful textures under the skin, stone, velvet. When choosing the type of composition, you can focus on the table.

Table No. 1. Characteristics of plaster mixtures.

Properties	Mineral plaster	Polymer (acrylic) plaster	Silicate plaster	Silicone plaster
Binder	Cement	Acrylic	Liquid glass	Silicone
Vapor capacity	High	Low	High	High
Degree of moisture absorption	High	Low	Average	Low
Additive type	Inorganic	Inorganic and organic	Inorganic	Inorganic
Elasticity degree	Low	High	Average	High
Abrasion resistance	Low	High	High	High

Decorative plaster finishing options

Depending on the properties of the compositions and the size of the filler included in them, patterns of varying complexity can be created on the treated surfaces. Manufacturers have made it easier for consumers to choose and classified plaster mixtures by the type of application and the final result.

Technology of applying decorative plaster

To obtain structural and textured coating use different tools. But the difference between these types of surfaces is conditional. The only difference is that the structural mixture provides relief due to the filler included in its composition, while the textured mixture provides relief due to the pattern on the roller.

Venetian plasters are most often used to decorate the ceiling in residential premises. There are several techniques for applying this type of composition. The simplest and most popular is given below.

Step 1. Carefully prepare the surface, leveling out the slightest differences in height on the ceiling and sealing seams and cracks with putty.

Step 2. Apply 1-2 layers of primer.

Step 3. Along the walls, in their upper part near the ceiling, tapes of masking tape are attached.

Step 4. If the mixture is not tinted, add pigment. The mixture consumption ranges from 600 g to 1.5 kg per 1 m2. The more complex the design, the greater the material consumption.

Step 5. The plaster is applied with a metal spatula in layers on a previously dried surface.

The essence of applying Venetian plaster is to create a multi-layer structure. The pattern of each layer is determined by multidirectional strokes with a spatula. Beautiful textured surface obtained by applying 2-4 layers of decorative plaster.

Do-it-yourself stretch ceiling installation

The most effective and durable finishing of premises is the installation of a stretch ceiling. Manufacturers offer two types of canvases: fabric and PVC (polyvinyl chloride based). Each of these materials has its own advantages. You can choose matte or glossy materials. Seamless PVC films are easier to stretch, which is why they are more often used for interior decoration.

To fix the canvas, choose one of the following methods:

• harpoon;
• glazing bead;
• clip-on

The first requires a special clamp - a harpoon. This is the name given to a durable PVC strip, one side of which is equipped with protrusions. Thanks to them, the canvas holds firmly in the profile. The films are attached to the harpoon using cold welding.

With the glazing bead method, the edges of the film are pressed against the walls wooden slats- glazing beads. This method is simple to perform, but gives a less spectacular result than the harpoon method. The clip method of fastening is used during installation fabric sheets equipped with special clips around the perimeter. These devices are attached to a profile installed along the walls.

To install a stretch ceiling you will need the following tools:

• plastic or aluminum profiles;
• fasteners for fixing the profile (screws, dowels);
• spatula with a narrow metal blade;
• construction hair dryer (if the ceiling is film);
• drill;
• stepladder (for greater ease of work, two stepladders will be required);
• roulette;
• level.

The most convenient method of installation is the harpoon stretch fabrics, that’s why it will be discussed in today’s article.

Note! It is necessary to know the width and length of the room, because the canvas itself should be wider than the distance between the walls by about 10 - 15 cm.

Table No. 2. Stages of work execution.

Stages, illustration	Description of actions
	IN modern apartments The height of the corners may vary significantly. To install a stretch ceiling, you need to draw on the walls horizontal lines 4 cm below the ceiling so that when they intersect they form a single plane. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a level, laser or water level.
	A profile (baguette) is installed along the marking lines. To do this, drill holes, insert dowels into them, and fasten the profile using self-tapping screws.
	The canvas is unrolled and each corner is inserted into a baguette. The harpoon is pushed into the profile opening using a metal spatula. The work is carried out in a preheated room, optimal temperature 40°C, so if they install PVC film, when unfolding the canvas, it is attached at the corners to the “crocodiles” and heated construction hairdryer.
	At opposite walls, they begin to alternately tuck the edges of the canvas into the baguette.

In carrying out this task it is mandatory:

• find the middle of the free part of the canvas and insert the harpoon into the profile;
• then move on to opposite wall and repeat the action;
• after which they find the middle of the next sagging part of the canvas and put it into the harpoon;
• move to the opposite wall and do similar work.

While stretching the film, the room is continuously heated. This can be done using a heat gun. If it is not possible to use this equipment, the film is heated with a construction hairdryer. With this method of installing a stretch ceiling, it is important not to overheat the canvas and not melt it.

Suspended ceiling installation

Despite the emergence of new ceiling design technologies, plasterboard finishing remains relevant. From this material you can build both simple single-tier and spectacular multi-tier structures.

Tools and materials for work

To construct a plasterboard ceiling frame, you will need the following materials:

• metal profile PN 28/27 and PP 60/27;
• self-tapping screws SMM 3.5/51;
• pendants;
• crabs.

The main element of the frame is racks made of PP 60/27 metal profile. Manufacturers offer products different lengths: 2.8 m, 3 m, 4 m. Can be purchased individually or in packs (12 or 18 pieces each). The guides are placed along the walls adjacent to the ceiling. In addition to these materials, single-level profile hangers and connectors, which experts call “crabs,” will be needed.

Tools you will need:

• battery-powered screwdriver;
• drill or hammer drill (for drilling holes in walls and ceilings);
• metal scissors (for cutting metal profiles);
• marker, tape measure, string, square, plumb line (for marking);
• construction bubble level at least 80 cm long.

Configurations of plasterboard ceiling frames

Beginners in this business can have no doubt: they can build not only a simple single-level ceiling, but also complex multi-tiered structures. There is only one requirement: to understand the principle of constructing a frame made of metal profiles.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings are good because they allow you to radically change the space of a room with the help of spectacular, intricate shapes. Spot lighting of figured protrusions and depressions will create a charming atmosphere of comfort and respectability in the room.

In order to mount the figured frame, you will need to bend the PP 60/27 metal profile so that it follows the contour of the figure conceived by the designer. This task is not difficult to complete, but it will require accuracy, attentiveness and leisure.

In order to give the metal profile the desired shape, it is necessary to trim its side plates in increments of 4-5 cm. After which the bar is gradually bent in the desired direction.

A multi-tier (multi-level) frame for a suspended ceiling is erected in accordance with a previously drawn up diagram. All dimensions and distances must be indicated on it. When drawing up a diagram, you must be guided by the following rules.

1. The optimal distance between the mounting points of the guides is 40-45 cm.
2. The optimal distance between hangers for single-level ceiling– 40 cm, for two-level – in accordance with the picture, but not more than 40 cm.
3. If you plan to do spot lighting, when determining the location of the first line of the frame, the dimensions of the lamps are taken into account (for small ones, a distance of 5-8 cm from the ceiling is sufficient; for large ones, a distance of 12-15 cm will be required).
4. The optimal distance between PP posts is 60/27 – 60 cm.

Marking walls and ceilings

The first stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling is marking. The correctness depends on how accurate it is. further work. Therefore, you need to perform this task thoughtfully and slowly.

You will need the following tools:

• plumb line;
• bubble level 1.2-1.5 m long;
• water level;
• laser level;
• level.

The easiest way to mark is using a level or laser level.

Marking walls for installation of profile PN 28/27

Step 1. Work begins from one of the corners of the room (previously it was the lowest corner of the room, but today this is no longer relevant).

Step 2. In this corner, at a distance of 3-5 cm from the walls, a thread with a plumb line is pressed to the ceiling. Mark the vertical direction on the adjacent walls.

Step 3. According to the vertical line from the flow, measure down the distance at which the first tier of the frame will be located.

Step 4. At this point, screw in a self-tapping screw, to which a long thread is tied.

Step 5. Along the wall they move to its second corner and do similar work there.

Step 6. The thread is pulled between the two corners so that it is horizontal. A square will help with this, which is installed at a right angle to the intersection of the vertical markings and the stretched thread.

Step 7 Draw a line on the wall with a marker or pencil.

Step 8 Markings are applied in the same way on all other walls. The result should be a perimeter along which the PN 28/27 guides will be installed.

Installation of a single-level ceiling frame

The height and direction of the supporting frame posts are adjusted using hangers. Their installation is the first thing to do before proceeding with the installation of the supporting profile. Suspensions are mounted on the ceiling in accordance with the frame diagram. The first profile posts are installed in the direction of the longest wall of the room. The distance between the carriers is 55-60 cm.

The order of further work.

Step 1. The first supporting profile is installed: its end is inserted into the guide, covered with the “legs” of the suspensions located in its path, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the direction is strictly horizontal. The threads and level stretched during marking will help with this.

Step 2. Install load-bearing profiles over the entire ceiling area.

Step 3. The work is completed by laying plasterboard sheets: sheathing. The sheets are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. When performing this work, it is important to install the sheathing panels so that the gaps between them are minimal. Solid sheets must be fastened perpendicular to long guide profiles. The joining of sheets should be done in the middle of the profile. For high-quality fastening It is better to do the work together.

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the latter are recessed into the sheathing material by 2-3 mm. The pitch between the screws should be 25-30 cm (3-4 cm from each corner of the sheets). Chips should not form on the edges of the sheets when screwing in the screws. If damage does occur, the self-tapping screw must be removed and a new one screwed in 3-4 cm.

Step 4. When the ceiling is sheathed, fill the gaps with putty. After it dries, all irregularities are smoothed out with a special grater in which a sanding mesh is installed. After which the ceiling is ready for painting, tiling or wallpaper.

So that there are no cracks! Neither gypsum board sheets nor load-bearing profiles are fixed to the guide profile 28/27 (on the wall), i.e. the walls and ceiling should not be tightly connected. For a suspended ceiling, gypsum boards with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used. When cutting sheets, a chamfer of 22.5 degrees is made on the edge. The sheets are fixed in a running start!

Video - Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling

The ceiling made of PVC panels is suitable for a balcony, bathroom or utility rooms. Use in the kitchen or living rooms cannot be excluded, although it is extremely rare. Installation is possible either with or without lathing. First, a special mounting strip is installed around the perimeter of the room. It has grooves into which PVC panels are inserted, as well as a mount for the ceiling plinth.

Each panel has a locking groove, thanks to which they are fastened together, creating a smooth surface without gaps. At the junction, of course, a stripe is visible - this cannot be avoided.

Panel sizes:

• width from 10 to 50 cm – standard 25 cm;
• length from 2.4 to 3 m – on order up to 6 m;
• thickness from 5 to 12 mm.

Advantages:

• quick installation;
• low price;
• variety of colors and patterns.

Flaws:

• the smell of plastic in the sun;
• deformation from high temperature;
• they crack due to low temperatures.

Cheapest white PVC panel costs 125 rubles/sq.m. Installation 350 rubles/sq.m. The work is not difficult and you can easily do it yourself.

Foam tiles

Foam ceiling tiles glued directly to the base of the ceiling, without erecting a sheathing. This a budget option finishes that are suitable for all rooms, including the bathroom.

Advice

The tiles differ in shape and thickness. Can be rectangular, square, diamond-shaped and hexagonal. There are seamless tiles, where the end is designed in such a way as to overlap the joints, forming a monolithic surface. The thickness depends on the production method:

• 2.5-3 mm – extruded;
• 7-8 mm – pressed or stamped, compacted with a press;
• up to 14 mm – injection, cast into molds.

Foam tiles are available in various patterns. The color is mostly white, but other shades are also found. After gluing to the ceiling, it is advisable to cover the tiles with water-based paint.

Among the advantages I can note ease of installation, sound and heat insulating effect, low cost. At the same time, the appearance of the tile immediately reveals its cheapness - it doesn’t look that special. In addition, during operation, the foam may turn yellow if it is glued to the kitchen ceiling. In the bathroom, mold forms on it, which is impossible to remove.

• tiles from 175 rubles/sq.m;
• glue 25 rub/m2;
• gluing work 140 RUR/sq.m.

For your information

Typically, such tiles are glued independently, so the minimum final price of materials will be 200 rubles/sq.m.

MDF panels

MDF board is compressed wood shavings, on top of which is applied protective covering. It looks like laminate. Suitable for any premises, but more often used in non-residential premises. Although I have seen beautiful bedroom interiors where there were MDF panels on the ceiling.

Types of MDF panels:

• veneered or veneered - natural wood is used;
• laminated - PVC film is used;
• painted.

Installation methods:

• onto the sheathing using construction stapler or ordinary self-tapping screws;
• on the sheathing or without it, using clamps (special fastenings);
• glue - if working surface perfectly smooth.

Characteristics:

• are not afraid of temperature changes;
• are burning;
• impregnated with antiseptics - mold does not form;
• laminated and painted do not absorb moisture - can be used in the bathroom;
• unpretentious in maintenance;
• easy to install.

Minimum price 325 rub/sq.m. Work 340 RUR/sq.m.

Stretch ceiling

Stretch ceilings are the most popular look finishing, because it's fast, cheap and beautiful. You can make ceilings in a three-room apartment in a day. They come in glossy, matte, and any shade. You can apply any design to the canvas.

The “starry sky” ceiling looks beautiful.

Types of stretch ceiling:

• PVC is the cheapest and therefore most common;
• fabric - more expensive, does not differ in appearance from fabric.

Installation principle:

• a wall edging is installed around the perimeter (along laser level). The minimum gap is 5 cm from the bottom point;
• the canvas is attached to the edge grooves with a special spatula;
• the canvas is heated by a gas heat gun, which causes it to stretch.

Advantages:

• quickly installed;
• large selection of materials and colors;
• increased protection against leaks, but only if there are no spotlights or chandeliers.

It is not a panacea for flooding by neighbors, because... There is a gap between the wall and the wall edge.

Flaws:

• fades or turns yellow (if white);
• the likelihood of defects appearing (if fallen pieces of plaster or debris fall, dark spots remain and can be cut during use);
• It can stink (even a good one stinks for a few days after installation).

Advice

I know several cases when, when installing a stretch ceiling, workers pointed a heat gun at plastic windows and they floated.

Rarely, but it still happens, they explode gas cylinders. Imagine the consequences of such an explosion!

Such cases are possible only in winter. Masters filling a cylinder at gas station for cars, they blow it out to the maximum so that it lasts longer. And according to the rules, the balloon needs to be inflated by 30%, no more. When the cylinder is brought from a cold street into a warm room and begins to work, the temperature in the room rises to 60-70 degrees. The gas expands accordingly and BAM!!!

Tips for use:

• if your neighbors flooded you and the ceiling sagged like a bubble, call the offices that handle the installation. You will not be able to eliminate the consequences on your own. It is extremely important that no moisture remains on the film, because of this, various bugs can hang there. Once we dismantled an old suspended ceiling and found a lot of insect corpses there;
• wash the film by special means otherwise divorces remain;
• If the fabric is torn, then stick double-sided tape at the cut site, and glue some decorative gag (butterfly or flower) onto it. You can decorate regular patches in the same way.

• cheap Chinese PVC film with installation will cost 550 rub/sq.m;
• installation of a chandelier 500 rubles;
• installation of a spotlight 400 RUR/piece;
• pipe bypass (heating riser, ventilation, air conditioning, etc.) RUB 150/piece.

Modular suspended ceilings

In this category I include all types of ceilings for which you need to assemble a cellular frame. This frame serves as the basis for square panels, usually 60x60 cm, or lamps of the same size. A damaged element can be replaced at any time, which is very convenient. This includes:

• Armstrong;
• Cassette;
• Grilyato;
• Baffle.

Their difference lies in the type of profile used for the frame, and, of course, the tiles. Such ceilings are mainly used for offices, but their use in an apartment is quite acceptable. It all depends on how the designer plays this decision in the interior.

The frame is attached to the perimeter guides, as well as to the ceiling using hangers. The length of the hangers is adjustable to level the frame.

Advantages:

• difference in color solutions;
• quickly install;
• the ability to install it yourself;
• the ability to replace individual elements;
• hides communications.

Flaws:

• hides space due to hangings (minimum 15-20 cm).

Armstrong

Mineral fiber boards are used. The surface of the tile can be smooth, rough, with a wormhole pattern, or perforated. The panels also have a different edge, which determines the appearance of the outer (front) surface after installation. The panels absorb sounds well.

Price 650 rubles/sq.m. (materials 300 rubles/sq.m. and labor 340 rubles/sq.m.).

Cassette

A cassette panel made of aluminum or galvanized steel is laid on the frame in the same way as a classic Armstrong.

Price 790 RUR/sq.m.(materials 450 rubles/sq.m. and labor 340 rubles/sq.m.).

Grilyato

Also called a lattice ceiling. The profile has special slots into which the lattice panel is inserted.

Price 940 RUR/sq.m.(materials 600 rubles/sq.m. and labor 340 rubles/sq.m.).

Baffle

High ceiling acoustic protection. Metal panels have a liner made of mineral wool. It belongs to designer ceilings, which is why it is expensive
.

Price 1140 RUR/sq.m.(materials 800 rubles/sq.m. and labor 340 rubles/sq.m.).

Ceiling made of lining

Today, clapboard ceilings are extremely rare. This is more of a story, but there are still people who still like it this type finishing. For the lining you need to make a sheathing from wooden beams. The lining is stuffed onto them with small nails. I don’t think I’ll tell you anything new about her.

Price 1010 RUR/sq.m.(materials 610 rubles/sq.m. – linden, labor 400 rubles/sq.m.).

Suitable for dry and wet rooms, the main thing is to choose the right drywall (moisture resistant or not). Personally, I like the plasterboard ceiling the most, but it’s a lot of hassle, and it’s not very cheap.

For your information

You can make multi-level structures with straight and curved lines, insulate, install sound insulation, install recessed lamps or LED backlight. There are no problems with it during operation. It won’t crack, it’s quite strong, it’s perfectly smooth – there are only advantages...

Plaster can be rolled over wooden or metal sheathing, as well as directly onto a rough wooden ceiling.

Advantages:

• variety of design solutions;
• installation of built-in spotlights;
• possibility of using sound insulation;
• closes utility lines;
• reliable and problem-free.

Flaws:

• hides space;
• relatively long and labor-intensive installation (we are talking about turnkey work);
• a lot of dust during installation (putty/grout).

Price 1452 rub/m. sq without taking into account the sheathing.

Materials 252 RUR/m. sq:

• moisture-resistant plasterboard 106 RUR/sq.m.;
• self-tapping screws 11 rub. (at the rate of 24 pcs/sq.m.);
• 45 RUR/sq.m – 2 layers of putty (start/finish);
• 90 rub/sq.m – water-based paint 2 layers.

Work 1200 rub/sq.m:

• installation of a single-level ceiling 500 rub/m2;

Slatted aluminum ceiling

Suitable for bathroom, hallway, kitchen. With the right approach, you can use it anywhere.

The slats are attached to special comb strips, they snap into place. These combs can be attached to the sheathing or directly to the rough ceiling, that is, installation is possible without a noticeable reduction in the height of the ceilings.

There are two types of slatted ceilings:

• with a gap - there is a distance between the slats. Decorative strips can be inserted into this distance;
• no gap - no space between the slats.

Advantages:

• installation of built-in lamps;
• moisture-resistant - if the neighbors flooded, then it doesn’t matter to him, the water passed through the slats, they wiped it with a rag and that’s it;
• many colors and textures;
• hides communications;
• possibility of sound insulation.

Flaws

• patina appears;
• risk of edge damage (bending) during installation, that is, installation skill is required;
• The space is hidden if spotlights are installed or heat and sound insulation are installed.

Price 1550 RUR/sq.m.(materials 650 rubles/sq.m. and installation from 900 rubles/sq.m.).

Plastered ceiling

Before the advent of newfangled ceiling finishing materials, plastering was the only decent option. In the old fashioned way, many still recommend making plastered ceilings, saying they are environmentally friendly and do not take up space. I recommend you not to do this. Honestly, I am against plastered ceilings. For the same money better than drywall twist.

Advantages:

• does not hide space;
• vapor permeable, environmentally friendly.

Flaw

• long installation;
• a lot of dirt and dust during installation;
• complexity of implementing design solutions;
• the quality of work strongly depends on the skill of the performer and the quality of materials - there is a big risk of running into jambs.

For your information

I’ll tell you honestly, it’s extremely rare to see a perfect plastered ceiling without jambs. For such work they usually charge normal money - this is far from the average tariff. Yes, and you won’t find a normal craftsman during the day.

.

But I’ve seen a lot of shoals—almost all of them. Plastered ceilings love to crack – it’s a fact. It also happens that some unskilled craftsman puts on such a layer of plaster and putty that it simply falls off under its own weight. The last time a client had his bathroom ceiling redone was after a “familiar master” whom someone there recommended to him. Common situation? So the ceiling fell off after six months. The layer was small, but there were problems with adhesion.

Price 1600 rub/sq.m. This is provided that initially the ceiling is relatively flat, without differences of 10 cm.

Materials:

• 115 RUR/m2 Knauf gypsum leveling plaster;
• 45 RUR/sq.m – 2 layers of putty;
• 90 rub/m2 water-based paint 2 layers.

• plastering from 500 rub/m2;
• puttying for painting 400 rub/m2;
• polishing 150 rub/m2;
• painting in 2 layers 300 RUR/sq.m.

3D ceiling panels

This designer ceilings. I won’t talk much about them, since installation methods and materials vary greatly, depending on the designer’s concept. They are mostly made to order. Here are a few examples so you can understand what we're talking about.

Summary table - which ceiling is better

Name	Price of materials (sq.m.)	Work price (sq.m.)	My subjective assessment
Ceiling made of PVC panels			Only on the balcony, in the hallway or utility room.
Foam tiles			Cheap and cheerful, if you’re really tight on money, it’ll do
MDF panels			They look good, but it’s better not to use them in wet rooms
Stretch ceiling			Fast, inexpensive, beautiful. Great option, if the budget is modest.
Armstrong			For the hallway. More office option.
Cassette			For the kitchen, you can use it in the bathroom or hallway. Not for rooms.
Grilyato			For designer renovations.
			Not very suitable for an apartment, but it can be used as designer inclusions.
Ceiling made of lining			It’s unreasonably expensive, and even the “scoop” from such a ceiling is a mile away.
Suspended plasterboard ceiling	without sheathing
Slatted aluminum ceiling			Fashionable, beautiful. With the right approach, it can be used throughout the entire apartment. Spots may appear on the coating.
Plastered ceiling			Expensive. Installation is long and very dirty. It is difficult to achieve a perfect surface. Very problematic.

conclusions

Let's summarize now. If you want a regular ceiling repair without involving designers, then you will be guided by the price.

Most cheap option, which is suitable for all rooms - this is foam tiles. She looks pretty good. But keep in mind that you will need to glue it yourself. It's not difficult, but you still need to spend some time.

The most popular are suspended ceilings. Of all the options where contractors are involved, this is the cheapest option. Install them quickly, in a day three-room apartment They will do it for sure. Many options for colors, prints, shiny and matte - for every taste. But it is easy to puncture, so you need to be careful during operation.

If you have the money and want to do it once and definitely not return to this issue, then I recommend plasterboard ceilings. The master will definitely putty the plaster well, without any mistakes. You can put soundproofing or insulation. To damage such a ceiling you need to try.

I am against plaster ceilings. It's expensive, long, a lot of dirt and dust. And there are almost always some mistakes. Very rarely have I come across perfect plastered ceilings. They love to crack and peel. In general, they are problematic - they are in the furnace.

There are many beautiful ceilings, some are very expensive, but there are also simpler ones. The beauty and durability of ceilings depends to a large extent on careful surface preparation.

What problems can be solved with the help of a ceiling?

In a modern interior, ceiling systems, and sometimes they are actually entire engineering structures, solve two problems simultaneously: decorative and functional.

Often, the ceiling is a multi-level or curved structure; built-in lamps are often inserted into them, significantly expanding the lighting possibilities.

The ceiling turns into complex system, which hides many engineering communications and, at the same time, provides easy access to them.

Individual requirements for the ceiling are imposed by a room with a special microclimate.

In separate rooms, such as: bathroom, winter gardens, swimming pools, garages - the ceiling finish should easily withstand changes in humidity and temperature, condensation and direct ingress of water.

In home theaters, with the help of the ceiling, the problems of creating a favorable acoustic environment are solved.

But basically, the decisive role when choosing the type of ceiling is played by the cost of finishing materials and the work involved in their installation.

Preparing the ceiling base

In the majority modern houses, the plane of the ceiling is the bottom side reinforced concrete floor, the plane of which is never flat and strictly horizontal.

Typically, floors are assembled from separate slabs, between which there are seams; they are masked first; potholes, chips and cracks are often found on their surface.

Rarely does an exceptional case of a flat and smooth ceiling occur. If it is not planned to lay utility lines along it, then the surface can be coated with a primer and puttied.

Now the surface is ready for wallpapering, decorative plastic boards or painting.

Unfortunately, most often we have to deal with crooked ceilings that were once plastered, whitewashed or painted, then covered with cracks.

It is only necessary to remove old layers down to the floor slab if the surface is to be painted, which means that it is necessary to first apply new layers of plaster and putty to it.

Selecting material for the base and painting of ceilings

The beauty and durability of the painted ceiling directly depends on the quality of surface preparation.

Please note that even the quality of the paint has a lesser effect on the outcome of the work; surface preparation comes to the fore.

Therefore, experts advise to be very careful in choosing all the necessary materials.

When choosing primer, plaster, putty, paint, it is necessary to take into account their advantages and disadvantages, as well as their compatibility.

Modern finishing materials offer wide choose water based paints.

When purchasing paints, pay attention to their thixotropy (the ability to liquefy under mechanical stress and thicken when at rest).

Such compositions do not drip from a roller or brush, they lie on the surface evenly and without smudges, and this is an important nuance when painting the ceiling.

What kind of wallpaper are used on ceilings?

Inexpensive and beautiful ceiling can be obtained using wallpaper.

Wallpaper is glued to a level, clean and dry base. Light-colored paper or vinyl wallpapers are well suited for this purpose.

White wallpaper with different surface textures is often used.

You can use wallpaper for painting.

The best option is vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven basis or glass wallpaper; they are stronger, more durable, and can prevent the appearance of small cracks in the plaster layer.

After gluing the wallpaper for painting, they are painted with water-based paints.

In a few years, ordinary wallpaper will have to be re-glued, and the wallpaper will have to be repainted before painting.

You can cover the ceiling with non-woven wallpaper, the main difference is in the method of applying the glue; it only covers the ceiling, not the wallpaper.

Method of wallpapering the ceiling

Before pasting the walls, wallpaper is glued to the ceiling.

Two people must participate in the work.

Stepping back from the corner of the junction of the wall and the ceiling by the width of the roll, you need to draw a line on the ceiling.

Apply to the wallpaper canvas adhesive composition, leave it to soak for a few minutes and get to work.

At the junctions of the walls and in the corners, an allowance of 2-3 cm is made for the curvature of the walls.

One person fixes the canvas on the wall, the second supports and unwinds it as it is glued.

Check the correct direction using the drawn line.

Having glued the entire canvas, check for the absence of wrinkles and the tightness of the fit.

Use a wallpaper spatula to smooth the surface, moving from the middle of the canvas to the edges.

The following canvases are glued sequentially, usually at the joint with each other, the last canvas is glued with a slight overlap on the wall.

How to properly plaster a ceiling

The traditional way to level the ceiling is to plaster it.

This method is relevant for standard panel houses with room heights of 2.5-2.6 meters.

The use of plaster allows you to save every centimeter of height.

By using plaster, you can easily level out deviations in the range of 5-30 mm.

If the thickness of the plaster is more than 30 mm, there is a high probability of cracking and peeling.

When large thickness plaster, it is reinforced with fiberglass mesh, it is laid between two layers.

You can use a metal mesh; it is attached to the base before starting plastering work.

This metal “skeleton” is used in case of insufficient adhesion of the mixture to smooth surfaces.

Gypsum or cement plaster

Cement plaster, with correct application, creates a strong, durable coating.

The cement layer gains full strength within 28 days, drying naturally.

Any attempts to speed up drying lead to cracking. Before proceeding to the next stage of finishing, after leveling the surface cement mixture, a break of 1-2 weeks is required.

Plaster mixtures based on gypsum, compared to cement ones, dry faster and harden not in a day, but in a matter of hours.

The use of a gypsum-based mixture significantly reduces repair time, high adhesion of the plastic mass simplifies the work technology, this is especially important when treating ceilings.

But gypsum plasters cannot be used in rooms with relative air humidity of more than 65-70%.

Glue ceiling

An adhesive ceiling is most often called a ceiling to which polystyrene foam tiles with different surface topography are glued. These tiles have standard size 500x500 mm, they are produced by stamping and extrusion.

The extrusion method leads to maximum density and homogeneity of the material, accordingly its water resistance.

It is easy to distinguish such tiles by appearance: their front side is smooth, in cross-section the product resembles porous chocolate.

The tiles are attached to any base using a special polystyrene adhesive.

This is one of the inexpensive ways to finish the ceiling.

Wall and ceiling lamps must be installed no closer than 20-30cm. to the surface of such a ceiling, since at temperatures above 80 degrees, the tiles begin to deform.

Fresco for the ceiling

The image obtained as a result of painting water-based paints based on the wet layer of plaster, it is called fresco.

Since this is hand-painted, the production process takes a long period of time.

These are very expensive ceilings.

Cheaper and more common are frescoes on a non-woven basis.

To do this, a layer of plaster is securely fixed on a non-woven base, then an image is applied using the printing method.

The main task is to choose a plot. Installation is carried out by professionals.

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