How to sand putty - manual method versus machine method. Sanding walls after puttying - advice from professionals Cleaning gypsum plaster

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Sanding walls

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The texture of plaster is an opportunity to transform your home

The texture and texture of plaster for a building is like clothing for a person.

The only difference is that if people have the opportunity to shelter from bad weather indoors, where they usually spend most of their time, then the outer walls of buildings are exposed to drying heat and severe frosts, rain and winds, unfavorable factors aggressive environment all year round.

Plaster gets scratched when sanding (closed topic)

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Finishing coatings such as wallpaper and paint, due to their fine structure, transfer even the slightest irregularities of the base of the walls on their surface. Oblique rays of light will always “find” such places and emphasize the unevenness of the base. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly sand a wall covered with putty. Sanding plaster is hardly worth undertaking. After all, any plaster must be puttied. Only sanding the putty will provide a smooth base before wallpapering or painting the walls. The article tells you how to sand walls after puttying.

Methods for sanding putty walls

There are several ways to sand putty. This is manual grouting of walls after putty and mechanized cleaning of walls.

Manual grouting of putty

Leveling putty surfaces manually is painstaking and time-consuming work. To get the perfect smooth surface you need to know how to sand putty. The most common method for sanding walls is to use hand grout.

Hand tool

There are several varieties hand tools. These devices are based on a single principle of fastening the grout mesh. These are basically spring clips located on both sides of the device. The back of the grater is covered with a soft polymer pad, onto which an abrasive mesh is placed, securing it on the sides with clamps. Side clamps secure the mesh in a taut state.

Some models have a comfortable handle, and there are grouts with side bends for gripping with the hand. The top photo shows the grout pattern on the lever. This tool does not cause any difficulties in how to rub putty on high fences. In this case, you can do without stairs and scaffolding.

Sanding mesh

In order not to think about what kind of sandpaper to rub the putty with, nets were invented for sanding the putty. Today, nine types of abrasives of this type can be found in the retail chain. The grouting mesh has standard size 105x280 mm.

Based on the quality of surface treatment, there are three types of abrasive materials:

• A coarse mesh is the material with which you need to grind putty of the starting composition, dry plaster with rough surface defects.
• The medium mesh is used to cover smaller defects in the coating. The abrasive applied to the material is slightly less than on a coarse mesh.
• Fine sandpaper is intended for processing finishing putty. After sanding the walls and applying the finishing compound, they move on to the final finishing of the fences.

The coarse mesh is marked by numbers: No. 40, 60, 80. The brand number can be recognized by the inscription on the mesh itself. Accordingly, the average abrasive has No. 120, 160, 180. The finishing grout mesh has its numbers: No. 200, 240, 280.

The numbers reflect the grind size of the abrasive substance applied to the mesh. If the number 60 is written on the abrasive strip, this means that the material is intended for sanding putty of the starting composition. If the number is 240, then the abrasive material is intended for cleaning finishing putty.

Hand grouting technique

After you have decided what to sand the walls after puttying, the mesh the desired number tucked into a hand-troweled tool. The putty grater in the worker’s hand moves along the surface of the fence in a circular motion.

Video of sanding putty by hand:

Mechanical grinding of walls

It is advisable to carry out mechanical cleaning of puttied walls for large volumes of work. To do this, several types of power tools are used: a vibrating grinder, an orbital grinder, an angle grinder and a grinding and polishing machine,

Vibrating type machine

Using an electric vibration grinder can significantly reduce operating time and increase productivity. The machine has a movable platform on which an abrasive mesh is attached. When the engine is turned on, the platform oscillates transversely along the wall surface.

There are holes on the platform and on the abrasive mesh. Dust is sucked out through them, which is then collected in a special bag. The dust is discharged through a hose connected to the vacuum cleaner. The vibration amplitude of the platform is about 2 mm. As a rule, this tool is used for stripping finishing putty and for sanding walls. wooden house. Sanding timber walls with such a machine allows you to achieve High Quality processing of wooden surfaces.

The disadvantage of such a tool is the rapid accumulation of dust inside the machine mechanism. You often have to open the body of the instrument and clean its inside.

Rotary orbital sander

The rotary machine is equipped with a two-handed grip. Of all the tools of a similar purpose, the tool has the lowest level of vibration. The low profile of the housing allows you to visually control the quality of surface treatment. Under the influence of rotation abrasive wheel, the machine seems to stick to the wall, which makes it easier to control the machine.

The tool is equipped with grinding wheels of various abrasive sizes. The machine is easy to operate and in the process of working with it there are no special problems in how to rub the putty. By changing the wheels on the tool, you can grind any putty surface.

The only drawback of rotary power tools is that after working with them you have to clean hard-to-reach places, including corners, manually.

Angle grinder

Angle power tools are multifunctional by design. In addition to all types of work, sanding walls made of timber is perfectly done with an angle grinder.

Angle grinders are modern, safe and easy-to-use power tools. They can be used for cutting, polishing and grinding various materials. At correct selection With an abrasive wheel you can quickly polish the walls made of timber inside the house.

Whatever the masonry of walls from uneven logs in the house, the worker, armed with such a tool, will a short time will polish the surfaces of puttied and wooden walls to perfect condition.

Grinding and polishing machine

Machines of this type include tools from Flex. The Flex L 602 VR model is designed for polishing and sanding walls and ceilings. Thanks to the successful development of the design of the unit, the worker in the process of cleaning putty walls will not feel a strong load on his hands and shoulder girdle. The weight of the machine is only 3.3 kg.

A convenient dust extraction allows the operator to work without a respirator, which ensures high working conditions.

The Giraffe Flex model is interesting because power unit fixed on a long air duct rod. This allows the worker to work on high walls while standing on the floor.

The manufacturer, along with the tool, supplies personal protective equipment: glasses, headphones, gloves and other attributes.

Machines of this type are equipped with special grinding wheels. When working with a tool, the vacuum cleaner creates negative pressure through an opening in the center grinding wheel. The unit is pressed against the wall, which significantly relieves tension in the operator’s arm muscles.

Features of sanding wooden walls

The most famous two options for wooden walls are fences made of timber and logs. The surface of timber walls gives in as manual grinding, and mechanized processing using power tools.

Manual sanding with sandpaper is a very tedious and time-consuming job. The task is made easier by the fact that the timber forms an even vertical wooden plane. It is better to work with such material using a power tool.

Sanding wooden walls made of timber is carried out in several stages:

• Initially, rough cleaning of the surface of the walls is carried out using a chisel and other cutting devices. Using a chisel, remove all protruding parts of the surface of the timber. After removing the knots, the recesses are puttied;
• after this the wood is treated with a coarse abrasive;
• the timber is finally polished with a mesh or wheel with a minimum abrasive size;
• the treated walls are primed and covered with paint or varnish.

The outer surfaces of the log house have a pronounced relief of semi-ovals made of folded logs. The logs are cleaned using vibrating machines. In places where logs are longitudinally connected, it is convenient to clean the surface using an angle machine.

When processing wooden walls, vortex air currents of wood dust arise. Starting work without personal protective equipment is extremely dangerous. Wood dust can enter the lungs and cause injury to a person's eyes.

On top photo there is a clear violation of safety regulations. If the respiratory organs are protected by a gauze mask, then there are no safety glasses.

The owner of the home can choose any method of cleaning the walls from the wall sanding methods described above. At the same time, we must remember that even the most powerful vacuum cleaner will not be able to completely cope with dust, so in any case the worker must be “armed” with all personal protective equipment.

Answer to the question how to sand putty and whether it is necessary to do this at all, interests everyone who goes to final stage finishing. We will try to understand in this article what grinding is for and what tools are needed for such work.

Is putty sanding necessary?

If you want the wallpaper or paint on the wall to look its best, then sanding the putty walls is a must. Of course, if you plan to stick fairly thick wallpaper in the future - for example, vinyl wallpaper, then sanding it to perfect smoothness is not at all necessary. However, if we are talking about painting, then you will have to work hard - after all, the walls must be absolutely smooth. Especially if you choose glossy paint, which will “reveal” all the finishing flaws, making them even more noticeable. Matte enamel is less “strict” to surface imperfections and can hide minor irregularities.

To make the work easier, putty should be applied to the wall with as wide a spatula as possible. This is done in order to minimize the number of seams - places where one strip overlaps another, noticeably thickening the layer. You need to start grinding at least one day after finishing the work.

Some not very experienced (or very lazy) craftsmen claim that sanding is not necessary. However, this is not at all true, since even the most best master is not able to apply putty so that no sagging or unevenness forms on the surface. Therefore, if you hire workers to level the walls, be sure to discuss all stages of the work with them. If sanding is not part of their plans and they assure you that they can do without it, you know that they are amateurs.

What tools will be needed for the job?

Now let's talk about what is needed for surface grinding. There are two ways to sand walls and ceilings:

• Machine;
• manual.

It’s worth saying right away that hand grinding turns out to be of better quality, and machine grinding is faster. In addition, it is worth noting that a professional putty grinder is quite expensive and there is no point in purchasing it for renovations in your apartment. Of course, you can also buy amateur instrument, however, the quality of work will be very low and you will still have to finish everything manually.

So let's stop at manual way. To work, you will need an abrasive mesh and a special bar on which it is attached. Instead of a mesh, you can use simple sandpaper, but it will very quickly become clogged with dust. In addition, you will need to arm yourself and protective equipment- gloves, special glasses, a respirator and a suit made of thick material, because you have very dusty work ahead of you. Rooms not covered by repairs must be isolated - close all doors or, if this is not possible, cover the openings with a damp cloth.

Sandpaper should not be very coarse or, conversely, very fine - usually use material with markings P60, P80 or P100.

How and with what to sand putty

So, let's get to it. First of all, we fix a piece of sandpaper or mesh in a block, put on a suit, gloves, goggles and a respirator. You need to start working from the corner, moving from top to bottom, processing an area no more than a meter wide at a time. You need to sand with light pressure on the block - this needs to be done without unnecessary effort, otherwise you risk tearing off the entire layer of putty. You also need to make sure that the same area is not sanded several times.

It happens that small pits form on the wall as the putty dries. In this case, there is no need to sand the surface around it, trying to level it - it is better to leave this area untreated, later seal it with the same putty, and then sand it.

If you are not sanding finishing layer , then it is not at all necessary to achieve a perfectly smooth surface - it is enough that there are no holes or protrusions on it. As for processing the final layer, you will need to make every effort. Once the wall is finished, you will need a bright spotlight. It is installed on the side of the wall so that the light from it falls at an acute angle. If there are any flaws on the surface, they will provide a shadow, and you will know which area requires improvement.

After all the walls have been processed, they need to be primed. Do not apply before sanding as it will make the sanding process impossible. The primer also needs to be allowed to dry thoroughly, and only then glue the wallpaper or paint the walls in one or the same.

Sanding walls after puttying is a mandatory operation when preparing them for painting, wallpapering or decorative plaster. After all, even after the highest quality finishing putty, traces of the spatula will remain. And on a surface that at first glance seems perfectly smooth, after final finishing all the flaws will be visible.

You should start sanding only when the putty is completely dry. This usually takes about 24 hours. And this is perhaps the most important rule for high-quality sanding of surfaces.

Let's prepare the tools

Before you start work, you need to prepare everything required material and devices. So, we need the following tool for sanding the walls after puttying:

• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• sanding mesh;
• sanding block;
• specially shaped sponge for working in corners;
• small spatula;
• portable lamp;
• stepladder or table;
• dust protection: respirator, goggles and hat.

Sanding beam

Very often, a sanding block is used for manual sanding. This tool is a platform rectangular shape, on the base of which sandpaper or mesh is attached. Sandpaper is cloth or paper base, on which a layer of abrasive grain is applied. This material is used for sanding metal, wood, plastic, drywall, etc. The most important characteristic sandpaper has grit.

So, for rough pre-processing and grinding I use an abrasive with a grain size of 1 mm and above, and for the finest polishing - 3-5 microns. For sanding after puttying, sandpaper No. 80-360 is used manually (the higher the number, the finer the grain). At the beginning of work, we use material with coarser grains - experts recommend No. 120-180. And after the second layer of solution, we recommend sanding with No. 220-280.

Sandpaper for sanding walls after puttying is an old proven method. But when processing large areas it will be required a large number of. An excellent alternative to sandpaper is sanding mesh, which is more wear-resistant. After all, all the dust will pass through the cells on the surface. And thanks to this moment, the material will not become clogged with debris. Attach it to a sanding block.

Sanding walls for painting with a sander (video)

There are also mechanized devices for cleaning after puttying. We are talking about a grinding machine. With the help of such a power tool, you can process a large area in a short time and do much better sanding than manually. Depending on the power supply, grinding machines are either electric or pneumatic.

Due to its light weight, the pneumatic device is easy to use, and its price is affordable. This type of grinder is powered by a compressor that directs compressed air and thus makes the mechanism work. Probably the main disadvantage of such a device is that it requires a compressor. And this is not a cheap thing. Therefore, for large volumes of work, it is advisable to use pneumatic machines. And for repairs, say, in your apartment or house, it will turn out to be very expensive.

Electric models grinding machines differ in mobility. They are heavier in weight than pneumatic ones, and their cost is also higher. But for home use This great option. Electrical grinding machines the following are distinguished:

• tape;
• orbitally – eccentric;
• flat vibrating.

A belt sander is used to sand a thick layer of putty, so it is more suitable for processing after applying the starting mixture. It is not used for polishing finishes due to high power device. A special feature of the belt sander is that all the working dust is sucked in by the engine cooling fan.

The abrasive belt moves thanks to special rollers and is centered automatically. This contributes to ease of use. And the presence of additional rollers will help to process hard-to-reach surfaces: such as corners, slopes, etc. Orbital-eccentric machines allow for high-quality grinding and polishing of surfaces. They are very popular and make it possible to delete old paint on a surface. The main disadvantage of this type of tool is that it does not allow grinding surfaces in corners.

The device has a round working platform, which during operation rotates around an axis and moves in orbit. The abrasive material is attached using special Velcro. Such machines allow you to work with grinding wheels with large diameters - up to 225 mm.

Flat vibrating grinding devices are distinguished by their versatility and are very widely used. Allows excellent polishing and grinding. Working surface Such a machine has a rectangular sole, the abrasive is fixed with clamps. So, for walls or ceilings use sandpaper number 120, for metal – 60-80, and for wood – 180-240. Yes, for grinding hard to reach places use a machine with a triangular sole.

Sanding the walls

1. Before you start sanding the walls, you need to make sure that the surface is ready for processing, namely, whether the putty layer has completely dried. And only after that you can start sanding the walls. Remember that to maintain your health, you should use protective equipment: glasses, a respirator and a hat.
2. You can use a portable lamp or spotlight to identify areas that need more attention. By placing them close to the wall, you can identify large defects and nuances on the surface. Such large defects can be eliminated by using a small spatula.
3. The next stage of our work will be grinding using a block. We attach sandpaper or mesh to the block using special clamps. First we use abrasive with coarse grain, but it is worth testing the sandpaper for small area surfaces. Movements with the block during the process are performed from top to bottom or from left to right; there is no need to apply strong pressure on the block.

If scratches suddenly appear after processing, change to paper with a finer grain. If further finishing involves wallpapering, then minor defects can be tolerated, but if painting is planned, then the defects must be eliminated.

1. When processing corners we use sanding sponges. Their special shape will help to efficiently sand these hard-to-reach places. If you do not have this tool, you can use a separate sheet sandpaper, bending it in half.

Sanding walls after puttying can be done without dust. This process can be seen in the video: How to sand walls after puttying using a sander, watch the video:

Sanding the ceiling

The ceiling, after puttying, also requires sanding before further finishing, and perhaps even more than the walls. After all, there are placed on the ceiling lighting, which will show all the slightest flaws on the surface. Yes, and the ceiling is usually painted or wallpapered in light colors, which will also highlight existing defects. It is very difficult to rub the ceiling with sandpaper or mesh. That's why the best option There is the use of a grinder. To complete the work, we will need a stepladder or a special bar for working from the floor.

For rough processing we use mesh No. 60-80, for finishing - No. 100-120. For getting excellent result grind in a circular motion. After finishing the initial grinding, apply finishing putty, and after it has completely dried, we proceed to final sanding. We use fine-grained abrasive. We make small and neat movements with the machine.

No matter how hard you try, it's impossible to get it perfect smooth walls after they have been puttied. In any case, traces of the spatula, uneven transitions of the treated areas, bumps, depressions and other defects will remain on the surface. This is why you need to sand the walls. Let's figure out how to sand the walls after puttying.

How to sand the walls after puttying?

The first thing you should do is get the right tools and consumables. You will need:

• Several types of abrasive mesh or sandpaper.
• Sanding block.
• Sanding sponge (used for hard-to-reach places).
• Ladder.
• Good lighting: spotlight or pendant lamp.
• Small construction spatula.
• Personal protective equipment: respirator, safety glasses, hat.

Experts recommend sanding the walls after they have been puttied, before painting the surface or before wallpapering. Grinding is often carried out for other types of construction work. The grinding process is relatively simple, but quite labor-intensive and dusty. How to sand walls after puttying? When sanding by hand, you can use sandpaper or a special abrasive mesh. The choice of material depends on the personal preferences of the master.

• Abrasive (grinding) mesh for putty– its advantage lies in the perforated structure. All construction dust will pass through the holes, so during work it will not clog as much as regular sandpaper. The mesh needs to be changed when it wears out, which can be determined by appearance: if it starts to tear or you feel that the sanding process is no longer so effective, then it should be replaced. As a rule, the mesh for grouting putty is sold on the market in pieces, the dimensions of which correspond to the size of the bars, so all you have to do is install it and get to work . But remember that the bars are also different, so when purchasing a mesh, take this factor into account. Disadvantage of the sanding mesh - more high price than sandpaper.
• Sandpaper for putty- her main drawback The problem is that during operation it will constantly become clogged with construction dust, so it will have to be changed much more often than the mesh. You can buy sandpaper in the most different options: ready-made pieces, small rolls or large rolls. If you decide to go with rolls of sandpaper, you need to decide how you will cut it based on the size of the bar to ensure minimal waste. Of course, you can buy already cut pieces, but such a purchase will cost much more.

In addition, sandpaper has such a concept as grain size, which is indicated by a number marking. The choice of grain causes some difficulties for inexperienced craftsmen. The more serial number sanding belt, the higher its grain size (number of grains per square centimeter), and vice versa. For example, coarse-grained tapes include tapes in the following range: from P20 to P220, and fine-grained sandpaper labeled from P240 to P2500.

Sanding the walls after puttying is carried out in two stages. Here you need to remember that the first grinding is done using coarse-grained sandpaper, and the final grinding is done with fine-grained sandpaper. For execution repair work In the apartment, sandpaper with a grain size of P80–P280 is mainly used. Not so often (for “jewelry” processing) smaller abrasives can be used – P320–P360. After treating the surface of the wall with starting putty, it is recommended to polish it with a rough grinding stone P100–P180. Sometimes, for initial processing, sandpaper marked P80 is used, but this is too coarse material and, for example, it is not suitable for painting. After processing the walls finishing putty The surface is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper P220–P280.

How to sand walls after puttying?

Before sanding the walls after puttying, you should make sure that the finishing layer is completely dry and ready for processing. Take care of good lighting in advance - it is necessary that the light falls on the treated area at an angle and only from one side. Remember to take care of your personal safety, always wear goggles, a hat and a respirator. There will be a lot of dust!

Large overhangs can be removed or trimmed using a small, clean putty knife. After this, secure the rough sandpaper to the sanding block. You always need to sand the wall in the direction from top to bottom and from left to right; in this case, not the entire surface is processed at once, but is divided into small sections.

If you have never sanded walls before and are not sure whether you have chosen the right abrasive grit, then be sure to practice on small area somewhere in the corner. After a short grinding, check the result - if you find scratches on the surface, it is better to replace it with an abrasive with a finer grain.

It is still permissible to use coarse-grained emery for wallpapering, but it will no longer be suitable for painting walls, since even minor defects cannot be allowed to appear - they will show themselves very clearly after painting.

When grouting, you should not press too hard on the sanding block, although, of course, you will still have to put in some effort. It is not recommended to grind in one place for too long, so as not to overdo it: sand it, inspect the surface for unevenness, and move on to the next area. If large depressions are found during the initial polishing process, it is better to skip them and treat them with putty later.

After sanding the main surface of the wall, you need to start processing corners and other hard-to-reach places. In this case, use grinding bar can only harm the putty layer. Therefore, it is best to use sanding sponges that have beveled corners. If this material is not available, the corners can be sanded with a sheet of fine sandpaper folded in half.

How to sand a ceiling after puttying?

The ceiling is not attractive less attention than the walls, and every flaw on its surface will be evident. The technology for sanding this surface is no different from sanding walls, except that working on the ceiling is much more difficult. Therefore, it is better to understand the question of how to sand the ceiling after puttying, having in your arsenal.

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