How to glue wooden beams in a farm. How to make laminated veneer lumber

Very often, when carrying out repair or restoration work, laminated veneer lumber is used.

The process of manufacturing laminated veneer lumber.

It is not always possible to purchase ready-made timber of the required size; often it is needed in small quantities, and then optimal solution The question is the production of laminated veneer lumber with your own hands.

Industry usually produces the specified element of standard sizes and parameters. Often, when carrying out work, timber is required certain size and properties. For example, it needs to be easy to process on the outside, but at the same time very durable. In this case, making laminated veneer lumber on your own will help solve the problem.

Nuances and features of the work

You need to know that if you correctly make laminated veneer lumber with your own hands, then its parameters will surpass natural ones of the same size. This is achieved due to the fact that strong glue is used and the resulting seam has greater strength than natural wood.

In order to make such a beam with your own hands, you do not need to have special equipment and tools - just purchase ready-made slats or boards. When making laminated veneer lumber, care must be taken to ensure that the annual rings in adjacent lamellas are directed in different directions. This design is least susceptible to warping.

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Technology of work execution

For execution said work at home you will need:

The grooves are made by adjusting the timber to each other.

• wood hacksaw;
• plane;
• clamps;
• brushes and brushes;
• It is advisable to have a grinding machine and milling machine, but this is not a prerequisite;
• measuring tool;
• boards, slats;
• glue;
• solvent.

In order for the material to be of high quality, the blanks used for its manufacture must be dry. It is best for the drying to be natural.

First, the workpieces are cut, the length of which should be 5 cm longer than necessary. Take three blanks, from which one beam will be made. They plan the edge that will be glued together. It is necessary to pay attention to the location of the annual rings; in adjacent lamellas they should be multidirectional. In the middle lamella we make a groove on both sides, and in the outer lamellas we make dowels on one side.

To see what the laminated timber will look like, first assemble it without using glue. Now you need to properly prepare the surfaces that will be glued together. For this they are processed sandpaper or grinder, carefully remove all dust and degrease the surface.

All lamellas are thoroughly dried and coated with fire bioprotection twice, with intermediate drying.

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Gluing process

The gluing of the timber is done with wood glue; after gluing, the timber is fixed with a clamp.

This is one of the most important stages When carrying out work, you need to choose the right glue. The choice of adhesive composition depends on the conditions under which the laminated veneer lumber will be used. Any hardware store has a wide range of glue, and you can always choose the one you need.

The glue must be used according to the instructions supplied with it. After all the parts have been coated and connected, they are fixed with a clamp.

When drying, you must also act according to the instructions for the selected glue; do not dry in the sun and allow moisture to enter. Drying time depends on the type of glue.

In order to strengthen the finished timber, you can do one more additional operation, which is not mandatory - use dowels. The dowels are installed on the wedge using a hammer.

After the timber has dried well, it is necessary to carry out its final processing. To do this, it is planed to the required size and again treated with two layers of fire protection.

In this way, you can make not only timber, but also, for example, a tabletop or other wooden parts. If there is a need to make a small part, then it is not always possible to make grooves. In this case, gluing of smooth surfaces is carried out.

For carpentry needs, a fairly wide range of adhesive materials is used: various types of PVA adhesives, polyurethane compounds, epoxy resin, contact adhesive, etc. The choice is the most suitable option glue is produced with a focus on the following project features:

• characteristics of the tree itself (oily content, level of adhesion, etc.);
• characteristics of the loads that will fall on the seam (including shocks and vibrations);
• conditions in which the product will be used (humidity, temperature changes, exposure to moisture).

You can learn about the working properties and areas of application of the main types of wood glues.

How to glue wood correctly?

Carpentry adhesives are applied in a thin, even layer to both surfaces to be joined. The only exception is the technology of gluing wood with polyurethane glue: in this case, the material is applied to one of the surfaces, and the second is moistened (slightly moistened with water). Applying the compound in excess does not improve the quality of gluing in any way, but only leads to wasted material consumption and smearing of surfaces with squeezed out excess (by the way, this adds headaches at the finishing stage).

When gluing a tenon-groove joint, only the cheeks of the tenon and the walls of the groove are lubricated with glue. This gluing method provides the most reliable connection: the joint is glued “tightly”, not inferior in strength to the surrounding wood. Applying the compound to hangers does not improve the quality of gluing; all you get in this case is just excess bleed through and a waste of time, which is especially valuable in complex multi-component assembly.

What is the most effective way to apply glue?

It is important to distribute the glue over the surface of the wood in an even layer, so you should not limit yourself to simply squeezing strips out of a bottle or tube. For smearing, a small brush with stiff bristles is usually used. But the simplest one will be a more effective assistant. Toothbrush: bristles of optimal rigidity will carefully and evenly distribute the composition over the surface, providing an optimal adhesive layer.

Is it necessary to degrease surfaces and what is the best way to do this?

When gluing wood to wood, there is no need to degrease the surfaces. Although in some cases, for example, when working with oily rocks, this will not be superfluous. In this case, it is advisable to degrease the wood before gluing with white spirit.

When gluing dissimilar elements: wood with plastic, glass and other materials with low adhesive properties, the degreasing process is more important. Degrease only one of the surfaces, wiping it with white spirit.

How tight should I tighten the clamps?

It is important to understand that the strength of the gluing does not depend on the amount of pressing force, but on the quality of surface treatment and their accuracy of fit. There is no need to tighten the clamps too much. Not a large number of the glue showing through is a sure sign that sufficient clamping pressure has been created.

The use of clamps is not always advisable. If we are talking about gluing small crafts, for example, wooden boxes and boxes, you can use tape or masking tape to tighten them, but, again, provided that the joints are well fitted.

How long does wood glue take to dry?

We talked in detail about the working properties of the main types of wood glues in. To what has already been said, we will add that heat, dry wood and low air humidity are factors that speed up the drying process of the glue. Cold temperature, high humidity environment and the wood itself, on the contrary, slows down drying.

How to clean a surface from dried glue?

It makes sense to remove excess glue from the surface of the wood either while it is completely fresh or when it has completely hardened. If you rush to sand a damp area of ​​wood, you will most likely end up with an even greater aesthetic defect when the fibers deformed by sanding dry. The hardened glue is cleaned off manual grinding(along the fibers) or cut with a chisel.

Before application decorative finishing Check to see if there are any stains left on the product. Otherwise, traces of dried glue will appear under finishing composition. To more effectively detect defects, wipe the surface of the wood with a cloth soaked in white spirit.

Professional tricks for flawless gluing

Band clamp – great helper in matters of gluing by mustache. This clamp distributes pressure evenly across all corner connections, guaranteeing perfect gluing without deformation of corners and other defects. The absence of a tape clamp is not a reason to give up perfect gluing of miter joints. When gluing large surfaces at home, it is advisable to use a toothed spreader. If desired, it will not be difficult to make it yourself, for example, from an unnecessary plastic card. Use masking tape to protect the surface from squeezed out adhesive. Plastic covers used as gaskets will prevent unpleasant surprises in the form of dents in the fixation areas. Tape and quick clamp will become your assistants when gluing together large projects at home.

Already from the name of the building material it is clear that special adhesives are used in its production. This leads to some suspicions regarding the environmental friendliness of laminated veneer lumber. What kind of glue is used to glue lamellas, is it safe, and how does it affect the characteristics of the material? We will try to talk about all this in this article.

How to glue laminated timber

Most often, lamellas are glued together using one of three types of adhesives:

• polyurethane;
• melamine;
• isoacitate (today considered the most environmentally friendly)

European manufacturers mainly use the first two types, but they work with EPI systems mainly in Russia, and even then not all companies. In general volumes, the emphasis is still placed on melamine adhesives, even despite the fact that they contain the strongest poison - formaldehyde. It is worth noting that none of the adhesives have any effect on the “breathing” of the material. negative impact– they are all vapor and gas permeable.

Important! Among the chemical allergens leading to bronchial asthma, includes isocyanates and formaldehyde. They are precisely what are used in the production of most adhesive compositions. If you have a predisposition to such diseases, it is better not to risk it - build a house from solid wood, for example, ordinary wood.

Below we looked at these three types of adhesives for laminated veneer lumber according to what we thought were the main parameters. Interestingly, they are all certified and approved in a number of countries. It is noteworthy that it takes approximately 5-7 liters of glue to produce one cube of building material. If you recalculate the total volume of material that is needed for construction, you will get significant values.

What's better?

In general, it doesn’t make much sense to compare adhesive compositions - they all successfully cope with their tasks. Even in terms of environmental friendliness, the issue is not resolved chemical composition, but by observing the technology for the production of laminated veneer lumber: if all the requirements are strictly observed, then there will simply be nothing to complain about. The hardened polymerized composition is safe in terms of environmental friendliness, but how completely the polymerization process went is up to the conscience of the plant.

About the use of glue

Why do only a few manufacturers use EPI adhesives, even though it is considered the most environmentally friendly option? The fact is that such compositions currently do not allow working in a continuous cycle. But the situation with melamine and polyurethane compounds is better in this regard - you can work on a conveyor belt. They are about 20% cheaper than EPI, and glue waste is minimal. This is actually why manufacturers are reluctant to switch to the use of emulsion-polymer-isocyanate compositions.

The construction of a house from timber is characterized by low cost and overall technological simplicity, as well as minimal construction time. Such a house is distinguished by unique technological indicators and excellent durability; only such timber can be made entirely by yourself. Self-made timber is even more profitable than purchased timber due to the fact that timber of the required size is not always available for sale, and especially small-sized timber is not always available on construction markets; also, laminated veneer lumber made independently will be better and more efficient. Such a beam will also surpass the usual one in mechanical, structural and other parameters, only here it is necessary to make the correct connection of the beams. Here it is necessary to take into account the location of the annual rings themselves, that is, the lamellas must be glued together so that the location of the annual rings is multidirectional. You can make such beams of the following types: a beam from three lamellas glued on the side, a beam from two lamellas glued together in a Z shape, or glued with a bevel between the beams.

To work, you will need clamps, a saw, the bars and boards themselves, universal wood glue and a solvent, which is required to degrease the material. The lumber itself must be healthy and dry, it is better to use larch or pine with a section of 100x100 mm, this should pass natural drying. Now cut the workpieces to the required length; for a regular workpiece, take three lamellas and connect them so that the pattern of the rings is multidirectional. Also, the parts that will be glued together should be processed and a groove should be made there on one side for two boards and two grooves for a board located in the center. Treat the mating surfaces with sandpaper, now the surface should be dedusted and degreased, now treat the joints with fire protection and then dry the future beams. Now glue the beams themselves with glue, of which there are many types on the construction market today; secure the glued beams with a clamp. Now, when the beams have undergone gluing, they dry themselves at a certain humidity and temperature, then we plan the beam so that all the parts are clean and the same size.

Such timber can be used for building a house and for making furniture, including countertops, cabinets and others. It is best to make bars with grooves, but for an ordinary simple part you can glue the parts together smooth surface and without a groove between the boards. If you are building a house from such glued beams, then it is better to use beams with a section of 100x150 mm, 150x150 mm, 150x200 mm and 200x200 mm. If your wall is external, then the cross-section should be 150 mm or more, for interior walls use timber 100x150 mm. The laminated veneer lumber itself is very effective and has excellent strength and durability, the main thing is that the beams are exact size, and they had no cracks. For such a house, a shallow strip foundation is quite suitable, on which a frame is installed, that is, a frame of beams on which the walls themselves will be built. The process itself is not complicated in principle, but here it is better to contact professionals if you do not have experience in this type construction.

User comments:

19.04.2013 05:04

The offer is, of course, good. Only “making your own timber” for some reason ends with the words “turn to professionals.” And the benefits from similar work there won't be any. A large number of clamps will be required, gluing technology must be followed, which is very difficult. It is almost impossible to provide technology for drying wood at home. I'm not even talking about the precision of processing of grooves and protrusions. This requires industrial milling equipment, the purchase of which for independent work“It will cost a pretty penny.” Isn't it easier, after all, to buy what you need? If this company does not have what you need, you can buy from another or order the profile you need. Why reinvent the wheel?

Solid wooden house for many is the perfect embodiment their dreams of cozy and environmentally friendly housing. Currently optimal building material for such a house there is a profiled beam, which allows you to build absolutely even and beautiful walls, which do not require additional decorative finishing.

However, due to quite high cost Not everyone can afford this material, so many are trying to solve this problem differently - for example, making profiled timber with their own hands.

Before you consider various options and ways self-made, it would be a good idea to find out what benefits this can provide and how profitable it is.

When will independent production be justified?

Depending on the situation, each developer will have his own motivation for action:

• First of all, this is financial issue. Indeed, in some cases you can save significantly, but here you also need to take into account the time factor;
• Quite often there is a need to non-standard sizes timber that cannot be found from manufacturers and then this is practically the only way out of the situation;
• When there is already sufficient stock edged boards and timber, but it is unprofitable to sell it, and for construction it is precisely profiled material that is needed;
• If there is a need for powerful load-bearing beams and in in this case You can make laminated veneer lumber with your own hands from thick boards. This design is not subject to torsion and cracking, and can also withstand higher loads than a similar solid wood beam.

There may be other reasons for such a decision, but in any case, you need to calculate in advance how feasible and justified this is in a particular situation.

Description of methods for self-production of profiled timber

Depending on the experience and technical equipment of the home workshop, several options can be distinguished according to their level of complexity.

Making timber from boards

If there is practically no woodworking equipment available, then the easiest way out would be to make timber from boards.

For these purposes the best way A “fifty” board with suitable dimensions in length and width is suitable.

1. First of all, you need to build a slipway from available materials, on which all the work will be performed;
2. Then special templates are made according to which the boards will be laid, so as not to measure the dimensions of the tenon and groove of the future beam every time and so that all products are the same;
3. To do this, you will need three boards that are stacked on top of each other in length, with the middle board being laid with an offset specified according to the template. As a result of this overlap of boards in cross section a profile is formed where a tenon is formed on one side and a groove on the opposite side;
4. After the boards are laid properly, all that remains is to securely fasten them together. The simplest thing is to nail them together on both sides with ordinary nails; for a more reliable connection, you can use metal screws, but in this case you can’t do without a screwdriver;
5. Also, to give strength, you can glue the timber with your own hands, for which, before laying the boards on top of each other, they are carefully coated with glue. In any case, after this they must be fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, since at home it is very difficult to achieve perfectly strong bonding of such surfaces. The result will be a simplified version of laminated veneer lumber.

A simple way to modify a rectangular beam

In this case, do-it-yourself timber profiling requires at least a manual circular saw, but otherwise it will not cause difficulties even for a novice carpenter.

• Here you will also need to build a stable slipway or workbench for the entire length of the workpiece being processed;
• In this case, the main goal will be to cut identical V-shaped grooves on opposite sides of the rectangular workpiece;
• To accurately mark future grooves, it is necessary to make a template from a block with the width of the future groove, which will be installed along the entire length of the beam exactly in the center. Using the template, two parallel lines are drawn along which the cuts will be made;
• Along the control lines, using a hand-held circular saw set at an angle of 45⁰, an incision is made along the entire length from opposite sides to a given depth. The result should be a smooth V-shaped groove.

• Now, if you place two beams on top of each other with the sides where the grooves are cut, then along the entire length a diamond-shaped cavity with a square cross-section will be formed, into which a standard 50×50 beam should be laid, the dimensions of which must be made to fit the grooves.

As a result of these simple steps, you can very quickly turn a rectangular wooden blank into profiled timber. These are the two simplest and most accessible manufacturing methods.

But in any case, before doing anything, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with GOST 9330-76, which is called “Basic connections of parts made of wood and wood materials" This document contains all the necessary information to correctly calculate the profile depending on the size of the workpiece.

Profile cutting using a hand router

In this case, the workpiece will be a four-edge rectangular shape, and the main working tool will be a powerful hand-held milling cutter.

By the way, you should again calculate how cost-effective it is, because the price good tool also cannot be small, and using a low-power and cheap one, you are unlikely to achieve required quality processing, and the time costs will be much higher.

Step-by-step instructions in this case will look like this:

• We are constructing solid foundation in the form of a slipway or workbench for the entire length of the workpieces being processed. The support must be stable without play or wobble, and also allow the workpiece to be firmly secured;
• In addition to the router itself, you will also need a set of special milling attachments, the shape and size of which will depend on the complexity of the profile that needs to be selected. With proper experience and quality material you can obtain products as close as possible to industrial designs;
• When working with a milling cutter, it is important to maintain the accuracy of guiding the tool along the intended path. It is desirable that it moves smoothly along stably installed guides, without jerking or lateral play. The quality of the pairing of elements, and, accordingly, such operational parameters of the future home as thermal insulation and wind protection depend on the accuracy of the work;

Important!
If you use a high-speed router with sharp cutters, you can do without additional grinding.

The use of such technology allows living conditions cut to varying degrees of complexity, in no way inferior to industrial designs. There are other profiling methods, but they require more complex self-made technical equipment and equipment.

In the future, regardless of what type of timber will be used for construction, it is important to adhere to the technology, which requires the use of dowels (dowels) to reliably connect the crowns to each other.

Making dowels

This type of fastener consists of wooden cylindrical elements of a certain diameter, which are hammered into the drilled holes in beams lying on top of each other, thus additionally fastening them together.

Making dowels for timber with your own hands is not difficult and anyone can do it, however, any business has its own subtleties that you need to know.

• According to the technology, dowels should be made from harder wood species;
• Their diameter should be such that they can be driven into the technological holes with a slight tension. If the fastener is loose in the hole, it is practically useless, and if it is too tight or protrudes above the surface, it can cause problems with settling of the house.

There are a few simple options manufacturing:

• You can split birch logs of the required length into many square pieces, and then manually trim them to a round shape of the required diameter;
• If in stock lathe on wood, then these elements can be quickly turned;
• Cuttings for shovels and other things that have become unusable can be used as dowels. garden tools. In this case, you just need to cut them into pieces of the required length.

Advice!
You can also use metal pipe scraps of suitable diameter as dowels.

Imitation as a decorative finishing option

Quite often, to create a certain style or interior atmosphere in the interior of a house, imitation timber is used with your own hands. This approach makes it possible to achieve an almost complete visual analogy with real timber and has a number of advantages:

• Imitation can be performed on a surface made of any material;
• Wood consumption is significantly reduced, and accordingly financial expenses and time for implementation;
• Such finishing can be done after the construction of the house at any time, both inside and outside.

Make a set decorative elements For such an imitation it is quite easy to do at home. To do this, you will need a pre-calculated volume of boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, as well as electric plane and a sander.

The manufacturing process will be as follows:

• Using a plane, you need to smoothly round the edges of one of the sides of the board, giving it the rounded shape that a beam has;
• Then, using a sander, you should sand everything thoroughly, removing all the blemishes and marks from the plane.

A board processed in this way can very plausibly imitate not only timber, but also ceiling beams. To achieve complete similarity, in the corners where the planes of the walls meet, the boards must be shifted relative to each other by half their width, simulating cutting the corner of a log house.

If desired, such a “timber” can be tinted to resemble valuable wood species, further enhancing the imitation effect.

Conclusion

Based on the information presented in the article, we can conclude that timber is very widely used in almost all architectural projects private country houses from any material. If desired and with due patience, you can make it yourself using the recommendations described above.

You can also watch the video in this article for more information on this topic.

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